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First Wash In 26 Years: 1988 Mitsubishi Starion Full Detail with HUGE Before and After!

Apr 10, 2024
foreign foreign foreign look at this so it's a

1988

Mitsubishi Starion it's here because it was overheating and I tried to fix it and it didn't work. I kept the car because to me it's like a time machine every time you sit in it, look at it, it brings me back to the good things and no, they're not always good, but that happened during that part of my life, yeah , I'm going to take the engine out, rebuild it at the time that was the problem with the car. the head would break because of the way it was designed.
first wash in 26 years 1988 mitsubishi starion full detail with huge before and after
Now they have heads that don't have that problem, so I can take the engine apart and put new pistons in it. When you say you mean you are going to do it physically. do it, oh yeah, I've been a Gearhead my whole life. In fact, when I had this I used to run in Bridgehampton, which wears the jersey. I thought you'd appreciate me doing it. I'm also a car guy, so yeah. I'm going to try to do all the work myself new bushings and suspension take out the engine rebuild new turbo engine maybe a little bigger turbo different fuel injection you know it was a lot of fun to drive I love the car it's perfectly balanced and No I can wait to get it up and running again.
first wash in 26 years 1988 mitsubishi starion full detail with huge before and after

More Interesting Facts About,

first wash in 26 years 1988 mitsubishi starion full detail with huge before and after...

It will be amazing when it happens that day, but the

first

thing is to take it out and clean it so that at least it's safe for you to enter, so be nice. of my mission and I'm excited to see what you can do from an engine perspective, yeah, so one thing I'll ask you, though when it's done, take me for a ride. I will be happy to thank you with Paul's help. son Chris, we all pushed the car into daylight for the

first

time in 26

years

abroad. I can't stop, here we go and now the brakes work.
first wash in 26 years 1988 mitsubishi starion full detail with huge before and after
I think they are on permanently, although it will get a higher value than that car. Now this story continues safely on the platform and Paul says his baby one last goodbye. We headed back to the ammo studio to unload the car inside for the night. Well, what's happening now is that I'm trying to get a woodpecker out. from inside my building when we left this morning to go get the Mitsubishi, it came flying in and I thought, oh, I'm really late, so we tried to get it out, it took us 20 minutes, I said, you know, let's open it. all doors no problem when we were standing here he was getting nervous and pooping on everything there is poop everywhere but he was pooping in my car and then he got pecked that pecking on my sheetrock and on the sheetrock all over 964, so I'm fine, we gotta go, let's leave all the doors open.
first wash in 26 years 1988 mitsubishi starion full detail with huge before and after
I talked to Steve across the street and said, "Hey, just keep an eye on the building or whatever we get back to. Sure enough, he's still here. There's poop everywhere in this building and now it's there." All the way there and I'm trying to convince him to come out and scare him with our drone, but he seems to be intrigued by it, he just stares at it, so I'm using my hockey stick, I'm trying to get him. He got out, but I'm running out of ideas on how to get in. The door is open. Look at it.
He is all. My drywall has holes. Bright and early. The next day, the woodpecker is gone. Jordan and pushed the car towards bay number. one to start the restoration on the interior and under the scan lights you can see the paint is covered in

years

of dust and real dirt on the lower rocker arm so this car definitely drives inside and has white mold on almost everywhere, so I have a lot of work to do before I can reveal it to Paul. The first step is pretty simple: jack up the car and remove the wheels. Now the guys at Performance Industries will have to refinish these wheels due to the excessive corrosion I will get after all these years.
More on this in a moment, however, before I put them in the back of my car, I cleaned them up a bit to make sure the trash didn't fall into my trunk and early the next morning I dropped them off at the store in New Rochelle for Evan and they will do their thing to make them new again. I will check back with them in the next few days. Now in the studio I started with the bottom, which is exactly what you would do. Expect tons of cobwebs, some rust, and a lot of mud and dirt with the pressure

wash

er and my face shield on.
Now it's time to remove the junk from the landing gear. I then filled the foam cannon with ammo foam and ammo booster antisalt. I let it soak for a few minutes before scrubbing with an agitation brush and squeezing 12 thanks degreaser into the wheel wells. I used a plastic scraper to remove the old factory soundproofing that was past its prime when I was done with it. When scraping my floor it was covered in dirt and mud from below so I knew we were going in the right direction. Next up was the exterior of the car, which is covered in years of dust and is very satisfying to remove with a pressure

wash

er, so enjoy, thanks everyone.
The engine was just as dirty and dusty, so I rinsed it first, then soaked it with ammo foam, and then let it sit for a few minutes while I foamed the outside of the car, and we'll come back to it on a slightly strange note. the bucket method and my blue microfiber towel inside. I gave the paint a healthy wash and scrubbed it with an interior brush. This technique is not always necessary, especially on cars that are not that dirty, but for those that are, it is 100 necessary. Helping get out the years of dust built up in the seams and cracks once everything was safely shaken.
I pressure washed for one of its many rinses. Lastly, I sprayed the grease around the engine and then scrubbed with my wheel brush to release the years of oil and dirt buildup before pressure washing again and then using compressed hair on almost everything to remove what I missed with the washer. pressure now, just for the record, this was the first of three actual washes I did on the car that I didn't put the other two in the episode because it's a little boring watching me do two washes of exactly the same nature, but old cars like this one they have so much dirt trapped that it is almost impossible to get it all out at once, as an example, look at my floor. again after just one exterior wash so it keeps coming out and coming out and that's every time I clean the floor and then boom you wash it again and more stuff comes out so you have to wash a car several times when it's this dirty with the paint now clean I focused on the moldy interior by spraying a foam interior cleaner, scrubbing it with an interior brush, picking it up with a microfiber towel because it was so heavy and then hitting it with steam to remove everything I missed with the brush and microfiber towel when I was done, the before and after were

huge

, but most importantly we are making it safe for Paul to get in and drive again in the future for a

full

list of products and tools used, visit my website at ammonyc.com to support our YouTube channel and help abandoned cars find a new chance at life.
Thank you very much to all our subscribers. Next, I repeated the same steps on the seats, dashboard, and of course the steering wheel, but on the seams I'm using a Seam and Stitch Brush to safely clean the material without fraying or splitting. Using a stronger or stiffer brush can sometimes cause it to bulge or basically rip the seam, so you need to keep that in mind. This particular brush is much thinner and has very soft bristles designed for these tight, sensitive spots and can be very helpful when working on foreign wheels. As I was heading over to the shifter boot you can see this thing is just toast so let's take it off and throw it out of the car you gotta know when to say when in terms of cleaning this is when I can't do it anymore no difference cleaning it, so let's go I'm going to replace it in the future if you notice that inside I also wear ear protection because when I'm done I'm using compressed air and I notice that my ears just ring and ring from the The sound of the air in places super narrow makes a high pitched noise so I think I will use them in the future plus it helps you go further into your own world while cleaning, it's a win-win.
It sure is strange for the vents. I'm using my mini wool wheel to get between the grates. It's the best tool ever. I love using this thing. You have to make sure you coat the fibers and lather it up by rubbing it in first. by hand a little before entering and exiting the grates and then when you're done you can clean it with some compressed air. It works very well. Strange Strange. Next I vacuum to avoid clogging my steam vacuum in the next steps above. In addition to using my steam vacuum I am prepping the carpets with my air diffuser and shag carpet cleaner, this will penetrate the fibers and prepare them for wet vacuuming in the next step.
It's also great for poster ceilings and then I re-dyed the carpets and brown crap came out pretty much everywhere. I have a link to the vaporizer used in the description below if you are interested. Well, at this point, the inside is clean. I removed all the mold. I put an ozone machine in there, so there we are. I'll let it bake for a while and we'll focus on the outside, as you can see. I did it before and after. I just had to have an idea of ​​what the paint did. Incredibly thin single stage paint. Put the paint depth gauge in there, you can see it's about three and a half.
I also measured the door inside the door frame and it's about one and a half so I figured a thousand and a half, that means not a lot of paint to play with. So from a

detail

ing perspective, it's what I call

detail

ing archeology because the paint is incredibly thin, of course, you just have to be careful. You can see that there are a lot of bits of Little Rock everywhere, especially on the front, which is plastic. There is an interesting thing that happens with plastic is that it becomes brittle over time. You know, the front bumpers, obviously, the bumpers are plastic to absorb the impact, over time they lose their elasticity.
The same goes for paint, but it's not as drastic, let's say because it's a little harder. On a side note, this is going to look a lot better, but I had to talk to the client before we started leveling expectations and I said, "Hey, I'm going to make this look really good, as you can see, the before and the They look great afterwards, but I can't get anything out of it, it actually has to be repainted. No one wants to spend another 10 12 50, whatever repainting a car. They want it to look its best and just get it back on the road.
We're going to be able to do that today, but as a detailer you don't want to go in and just hit this metaphor here with a backhoe and pick up all the dinosaur bones you want there with a little brush, gently, gently, because if you do that you'll ruin your whole thing. self. Here, in this case, you will destroy all the bones in this analogy, so we are going to do a single step. which is with a wool pad and polish, which means that I am not using compound and then I could follow with a pad of yellow foam and just cleaning a few things off, but the goal is to leave as much pain on the car as possible.
As you can see, the before and after were

huge

, but what makes this single stage paint look so good when finished, also makes it a challenge during the polishing step if you notice I'm using a wool pad and polish like My first step, after a few passes the pad will look like this: It is flat and shiny, then after blowing it, the wool fibers will rise again, allowing you to cut at its

full

potential. My point is that single stage paint looks amazing when buffed because some of the paint comes off during buffing, also known as single stage paint, which requires many more blasts on the pad because the paint sticks. to the pad, so you have to keep that in mind that it's going to look great, but at the same time it's time for you to have a little bit more work to do because there's more paint residue, it's all coming off and clogging up the pad.
In short, single stage painting equals more weird pad blowouts as day has turned to night. I completed the restore with steps. number two which is a foam pad and the same polish that I used with the wool pad, in other words it's two pads and one polish, a wool cutting pad and a foam polishing pad all with the same liquid I am now working on a new formula and hope to have it ready very soon, but the results look pretty good so far. The next morning I applied Reflex Pro, left it in Rainbow and then polished it like normal single stage black paint with Reflex.
It looks crazy when I've done the same thing on the molding. I used frame Pro to recover the Faded material, but make sure it is textured or rough to the touch as this is best for the frame coating. I also applied the framework to theWe left completely new when we reached the third place. I scrubbed the exhaust pipes with steel wool and polished the metal and they looked great. I touched up all the heavy scratches and bruises with touch-up paint and then cleaned the horribly moldy glass with glass cleaner. a squeegee and then a final cleaning towel which was probably the biggest before and after of the entire project.
Well, thanks, so of course, due to the excess mold inside, I used restoration on all the interior surfaces to clean the bacteria and basically kill everything. Next, I applied ammo mousse to hydrate the dry surfaces. Later that day, I picked up the new wheels from Performance and they looked amazing to get it done. First they disassembled the old wheels, cleaned them to remove heavy corrosion and then each wheel is straightened with their patented machine, sanded of course, and then powder coated, you could never tell the difference between the new ones and the reconditioned ones like this job. absolutely amazing with the new wheels in the studio.
I applied July Pro wheel coating to both the inside and outside of the cylinder for maximum protection and ease of cleaning in the future with July now cured. I rode the new shoes and rubber on the Starion then took it off the lift and added some mud to the rubber and the before and after were amazing, are you crying, are you crying, crying in detail what movie damn, looks good, foreign guys, is it the Mitsubishi? done in the before and after it's huge now the inside had a ton of mold we got rid of and put some ReStore on it we sanitized the outside rusty and gray and a little chalky and gross now we restored it it looks amazing same thing the wheels were a little worn, we took them to Performance Industries, they cleaned them, it looks fantastic, but the only thing left to do is show Paul his new car, hey, it's good to see you, come on, let's go.
Check it out, there it is, oh hey, it's good to see you going crazy, look at that thing, it's shiny, but it doesn't look that good since it was new, look at your wheels, oh my god, new, awesome, new rubber. in them, the glass, everything, I can't believe how it looks, look at this here, the most important thing is that you smell the smell, you don't smell anything except nice things, oh man, crazy, right, whole. I'll say this every time we wash this car at least. Three times, I'm not even exaggerating, every time you wash it, something else comes out of this car.
I spent a lot of time sideways in this car in the winter with these fires in the back trying to get through the snow, so yeah, we look good. good luck, okay, thanks, it's an incredible success overseas.

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