Servicing Sanyo Beta (Betamax / Betacord) VTC5000, VTC5150 etc.

Hello, it sometimes implies that the Betamax format was sold in small quantities and exclusively by Sony. This is, of course, complete nonsense. The best-selling video recorder in the UK in 1983 was the same Beta Veetc 5000, which outsold all VHS models and was followed by another. The bestseller in the VTC 5 150 and then also the range of front loading

beta

machines. Sannio machines gained a reputation for excellent reliability and ease of maintenance, which is why a large number of Sandy Beatty machines still exist today. We will work on the VTC 550 and check out other models as we go covering many of the issues that are likely to arise.

Also see the links below for my web page on

servicing

these machines. Here we have a VT c5 150. Now briefly, I will show you the difference between the previous model. The VCC 5000 and later v 150 model sell in large numbers, are assembled in Wales, apart from a cosmetic improvement over the 550, you have verse playback, you can play backwards reasonably well and it's something you can do with 2 heads. On the

beta

machine it was not possible on VHS, but there is a much more important improvement on the e5 150 and that is that the freeze frame and image search are in color on the 5 150 and only black and white on the 5000, so what the 5 150 is the one to get, if you can get one now, this particular machine is up and running.

You can see that the clock is working if there is no clock or the brightness may be indicative of problems with the power supply and we look at the power supply later. let's just turn this one on and we'll see what kind of results we get here, it's screeching and there's a lot of interruptions on this tape which seems like too many to me, there may be a problem there and we'll freeze the picture. and you get a kind of frozen phone. Here's a little trick I always found around 5.50 when I had one. If your freeze frame is not very good, you have a noise bar, you can turn it off by pressing reverse play. a couple of times and you can move the noise bar off the screen, in this case it's not there anyway so it's working but there's a lot of stuttering, maybe the heads need cleaning, they don't seem too warned so taken alone, he is obviously having difficulties. and we hear that screech when we first start and there is a problem in the conversation, that horrible noise when unlinking is completely normal, they do it now.

This machine also already had a new guide wheel and belt kick installed. I did it a few years ago, but no. I'll do it again just for the purpose of showing you how to change the idlers and belts on these because you have to do it almost every time you get one of these on this machine it's already been taken apart and some of the screws are missing. There are supposed to be three screws on the back here, before we go there, we'll turn it off on my isolation transformer. There is a strip here that is normally stuck better than this, remove this strip and normally these adhesive pads here will hold it and you can replace them with some type of double sided tape and two screws.

Now we will remove them, since I am going to work on this machine. What I usually do is turn off any monitor that is connected to it and there is a good reason for that, especially on these types of older TVs, the power supply has a capacitor that straddles the high mains input voltage electrical and the DC side is a capacitor that is designed to stop, I think the output side of the power supply. is starting to increase in terms of high voltage, but the risk is that they tend to feed back through the connectors, something like half the mains potential at a very low current, but if you don't expect it because you're connected to something that there is no land.

You may get a little surprise: Once upon a time there was a satellite dish in the pouring rain and the satellite receivers connected to a TV that was on standby and I got a surprise at the top of the stairs and I wasn't impressed so take that away, oh yeah, look at the beta cable so you know that people think of the format, it's called Betamax, actually the format, the national format, it's called beta and Sony calls it beta max. Sandia calls it a beta chord. I have some Toshiba. machines outside I will search and find out what they called it the professional version was called betacam and used tapes of the same size or at least they could have been tapes of the same size the format is really called beta remove this cover, okay, to improve access to the platform that you need to eject now there's a line of thought that says a school of thought that says you need to remove the carriage from the cassette in order to work on the Riddler.

I never do it and this is a special reason why I need to get There is some other problem. I wouldn't remove the cassette carriage, but if necessary, it's not unbearably difficult. I understand which of the screws, oh, there are screws there on the back and then also on the other side, so yeah. you feel the need, here is the real idle. I'm not sure how much of that you can see, these things are in the way, but I hope you can see that there's a real idle there and it swings back and forth depending on whether you're rewinding or fast forwarding. or play and this has a gear on the top that engages with the real tables.

Here you will notice that later models like VTC m4 t bt c m10 VT c NX 100 which are front loading have a different learning guide wheel and instead of being Geared it has a tire on the top guide wheel and that was probably done to reduce noise, but they don't really blow up that well, they tend to wear out a bit and there is a top loading model, sorry, a front loading model that did pretty much the same thing. Mechanism like this VT c 6,500, so later front loading models have the one with the tire on top and they are not interchangeable.

Otherwise, the mechanism is very similar. It has to be said that Sanyo designed this platform to an incredibly high standard. I know people sometimes think Sanyo is a cheap manufacturer, well the build quality of these machines was ridiculously high, they are so well made. I've almost never had a mechanical failure in the loading mechanism, the lacing mechanism on these, you know, it's brilliant, so everything. What we usually have to deal with are the rollers and belts, now Sony wants some of their machines to do without this idle and belt nonsense and they had a pretty nice system that didn't involve new drive belts and the actual roller did without the friction drive and had a magnetic coupling to make the guide wheel swing or they called it a pendulum from side to side and that should have been incredibly reliable and would have been if it weren't for the fact that they made a small mistake with the shape in which the platform was mounted and would wear out through technology, a terrible shame, they almost got it done perfectly now, so I'll show you here.

I have a few of these rollers, this is a new replacement roller and it comes complete metal casing, so in theory I could fit this entire system. I'm not sure the metal casing is really right for this model, it actually is, but you don't want to go there, it's a huge amount of work, freeing up that whole mechanism. taking actual tables from the office is never worth it, what we're going to do is remove this assembly from here before we throw it away and install it on top. I replaced this one, we'll install it there, so now I know this one is in perfect working order, but I'll still show you how to do it as best I can.

It's a little buried here. It's a little complicated now. One of the things is that there are some washers in here. I'll tell you what. I'll take this out. This is new and old Sanyo material. There are some small washers inside the auto assembly and you don't want to lose them. Also, there is a black circle at the top. They come with two different variants of the In the circuit there is this type of split washer and then there is what you call a traditional circuit and this is the last type I think. No, so when you get to the machine you might have the metal circuit or the black split washer type, just don't do it.

Don't lose it, so they are interchangeable, so what I'm going to need is a very small school for you to disconnect that circuit, but I think I'm going to have to get you a little closer to see what I'm doing here. Well, here we have the real motor, this is the circuit and this is the actual drive belt again. I hope you can see that this is the actual motor, so the first thing I'm going to do is free up your circuit, now look, I say. very often you come to one of these, you will still have the original metal circuitry on top.

In this case, I already have a split washer type and it's a little tricky to remove any type you have, we should try to hold one. side and pull out the other side of the screwdriver without it clicking into the room. Now if you lose one you will get a new one in the replacement kit so you can get away with it, there we go that's the top circuit in theory you should have fitted it with a new one if you remove it of course not you can do that, so you're going to have to remove one from the disassembly first, so we'll have Bernie Morton put it in properly. one side and you can now remove the top part of the guide wheel.

Okay, there's a bow on the idler wheel and this sits on top of a washer that's now there, so we need to remove that washer and not lose it. Now here we have the drive belt which, if it's still in place and you still have the original belt, it will break or it will be warped and sloppy and it won't work, so you usually won't find the belt in as good a condition as that. One, okay, it's warped a little bit because it's been installed on this platform for a few years, but it's actually basically a new belt and now we have the rest of the idler and the whole thing may or may not come off in one piece.

It doesn't matter if you take it in two pieces and you take it out and it splits in half, it doesn't matter, I'll show you what that means in a moment, so I'll take it all out, but if when you were taking it out its splitting there doesn't matter, it just don't lose that washer there so clearly, what I would do now is release all these pieces from this lower mechanism and transfer them there, in this particular case, this idler wheel or someone's new one. It's never been used so I'm not going to do that, however since my interested drive belts are strangely out of shape I think I'll put that one in to readjust if you fit this into the parts if you fit that part first and have that washer this time it's stuck there of course you're going to have to release it, you have to remove it, I love it, before you can put that one on top, then we put it back on, if you have to change the actual motor, now is the time.

To do this, if your actual engine is shot, first remove the idol and you can get to the screws here, this is a scooter, there's one there and one there, and you need to remove the bottom machine. Symptoms of a faulty real idler include surprisingly a bad image if you freeze the frame and white streaks that look like dropouts appear in the image but they keep moving, they don't stay on the same bad piece of tape but keep moving across the image all the time. time. What's going on? The engine is our king, so you will have to replace the engine and that is a little difficult.

You have to be one of the bolted ones, so at this point we need to attach the wheel strap. Now I have these straps. kits that came from the company. I'm not sure they're still in business. Terrestrial data. I bought a bunch of these in the past and this belt kit comes with four belts, which is a little strange because these machines only have two belts. on them and what we have here is the smallest one, I think so, the smallest one is the actual belt, so I think the second smallest one is the cargo belt and we'll check that in a minute and there the other two are for the two. variants of the front loading mechanism, the type fitted to later M and N models, such as the VTC m40, and the type fitted to the VTC 6500, which is a slightly different loading mechanism, so in this case we will not use these two belts, but I tell you what not to throw them away, at least one of those is perfect for the cassette carrying belt used on a sony pneumatic vo 9800 P and similar models and I have a video about which I will show you a card in the minute and you'll see Me installing one of those belts, so here we're going to put the wheel belts here.

In fact, it might be helpful if you have some tweezers to do this with. Let me grab some tweezers. I have a chance to see a machine. with an elastic band or knowing that in this position I have a mistake when you have it on, twist it a few times, make sure the belt is straight and has no kinks, there we go, those belts are fine, so it's installed. we can put this on top, but we don't want to miss the washing machine we had before and if you drop it like that then it's a little frustrating.

You may have seen a video I recently made on an ei8 attached platform where I kept placingscrews in the machine and that was a pretty annoying day. I suspect my pliers don't come together very well, so we won't use the pliers that hold that shim, here we go, washer, shim, tell me what it's called. Well, it's finally in the top position. idler wheel and we fit into this little split guy, okay, nothing. I just turned the machine on, it moves a little when you pull the spool. You should have done very well for doing wrong here.

Great, now let's change the charging strap. which is on the back of the deck, very good just to adjust it slightly now, sometimes people have been a little terrified by this label, caution, do not remove it. The center nut does not refer to this, speaking on the drum head, you can do it quite safely. Take off this squeaky cover while we're here. I'd like to show you something about how that mechanism works,

sanyo

. Their approach to the beta was a little different than Sony's and one of the things is that the head is what they call the main drive, it's a little drive that you put in this slot.

I don't know if you can see that the tip of the head is just sticking out here. and the top drum is stationary on most VHS decks, the top drum and the tips of the heads are all one set and they all rotate together this way to get it right. There were a couple of reasons why you could argue that the heads were inherently self-cleaning because they didn't spin on the drum, so they had a better chance of rust coming off than if they sat on the drum, where the rust would come down with the drum. head, so there's a case for that now, before we change the charging strap, we can fix a problem here, remember when we started we heard a squeak when it started playing the tape?

Well, what's going on there? These guides that rotate on the loading ring have become a little contaminated and the belt was squeaking as it was. going through them and what we're going to do, we're just going to show you what happens when you put a tape on them so we have a pneumatic load ring that works the same way and these guides here are static guides, they're the station guides, not They spin either way and if they rust then the tape can get tight and goes over them, so we're going to clean up all those static guides.

There is an incredibly reliable charging mechanism. I must say that that is not exclusive to the beta version, you can throw away. that on VHS if you wanted and Philips had a variety of mechanisms called Charlie platforms because they were connected to a Charlie cc4 and unlike Samijo the reliability was atrocious so they are ridiculously reliable but Philips managed to completely screw it up and it emerged. with something that was unreliable, you know, so I just have a cotton swab with IPA isopropyl alcohol, as you often hear me call it, and we're going to go through all these fixed guides here and clean them up, and you'll be amazed at the difference. that makes I have had it often, it can happen on any

sanyo

model with this basic mechanism but interestingly I found that the VTC series machines on the VTC NX 100 in particular are particularly prone to this problem, there will be no If there is any difference in that, you need to clean these guides now.

You don't want to use a cotton swab like this on the tips of the head as it will cause problems. You won't need to use proper head cleaning swabs, except for static. guides like this are absolutely ideal and while it's in pieces you'd clean the control and audio heads right? So the audio control heads one of the few things I don't like about the beta is the position of the audio control heads, they're a little hard to get to they're back here facing outwards there we go. One thing that's arguably better about VHS is that it's kind of easy to access and some machines, some of the Panasonic machines, are used.

I clean the audio. control heads without even taking the machine apart, I can clean them from the inside of the front, which is just wonderful, this is the raised head and even though I'm not going to do any recording and you say, why do I bother cleaning? head, I'll tell you why it's part of the tape path and so the tape goes through there and if you have guns there and it's sticky and it won't do any good to the tape path, it could cause the tape to stick. and squeal good, so what we want to do now while we're here is clean the heads, both the tips of the heads and the drum, we're going to use proper cleaning sticks.

Okay, this isn't really new, but you have to clean the heads a little. sticks here, these are pretty hard to get now, so a drop of IPA on that. Oops, I just poured IPA in there, which was unintentional, so I'm going to rest it very gently on the drum and turn the head dial. I went through it very carefully. If you do this wrong, you will snag the heads and finish your machine right. Do it several times. Sometimes, if they're really bad, you'll get a scratch on the head cleaning stick and then you'll know you've cleaned them.

The problem now is keeping the heads away. from the drum that I'm going to go over here you can see this ridge. Hopefully you can see this ridge on the bottom drum and that's the guide part of the tape path and it's important that the entire metal damper is cleanly shiny. around the back will do if it's contaminated, you'll have issues with the ribbon not working properly, potentially issues with image quality if you push the ribbon away from the drum and this could help with image quality right now. I'm going to clean the upper drum. Also, just a little bit, the tape sits under these plastic guides here, so anywhere underneath is cleaning, making sure it doesn't catch the heads, obviously, you can get kinds of head cleaners, but they won't work , it's our job as this domestic beta.

The beater had cleaner tapes, you can't get them, you can push them, use Studio Betacam, have cleaner tapes, SBT Max, and if you like whipped domestic betas and steel, it's to make them the same size, right, that's the guy, better, now let's Change this loading strap here is not the easiest thing in the world compared to some machines. I guess it's not bad. There is a tendency for the belt to get covered in grease due to the mechanism here again. This strap is essentially new, but has been placed here. wild soul replaced it anyway so it doesn't have any mileage on it, but it's been there for so long that it's warped a little, so we'll put it on, ah, okay, which belt is from my collection, that's the one old?

I'm pretty sure it's not one I'm not quite sure it's because one thinks one is too big, this is a little tricky because you have to try to put it on the belt under the engine underneath, you can do this if you do. you do. We already took the bottom off the machine, it might be a little bit easier because you can reach both sides at the same time, so okay, okay, we'll just test the machine, let's do it some more. I should note here that this is Mr. Doosan. These are installed on many, if not all, video recorders and the way they work is a bit counterintuitive.

Normally when something gets wet the resistance decreases, but actually the resistance increases and what's happening here is riding on the top of the head. so if you were to take this machine from a very cold place to a warm room, condensation would occur on the drum of the head and you don't want if you run tape around a wet head, it can catch on the head and snatch it away. Virtually all machines have this DO sensor. If you were to change the heads on one of these machines, I have to say it's not the easiest job in the world, but you have to remove a lot of these screws and take off this top drum. the static drum and then the head disc are inside and you have to solder four wires with Adi.

Make sure you remember which ones go where you know it's not impossible. I've changed heads on VTC 5.50 or similar before so head use is actually quite unusual. on these machines because they untie like most HS machines did for the spectator of this era, head wear is fairly low, with the exception of the VTC m40 high five beater, which has a head disc arrangement different, it's kind of a cross between VHS and beta I firmly. I believe the VTC m40 heads were not built by Sanyo. I suspect they were built by Sony and seemed to be made of paper mache and it's the only Sanyo mixer model where the heads were really bad.

I want to show you, well, we're here, there's a bunch of preset controls here and it's quite common to find that the preset track control is slightly out of position, now there's a track control on the front here and it has a center ID node and Very often you will find that the tapes do not play because in the knot position you have to have them all on one side and you have to adjust one of these controls. If I find out which one it is, we'll do that, should we monitor? play the tape, so on this particular tape, the tracking is good actually when it's in the middle, but what machine, what tape is that, I think it's that one, let's do the right thing, that's right, so now the tracking it's triggered on my recording and you have to put the tracking control not in the center, so here we go, that's the control you want to center the tracking.

I have changed the tape here, this is a Sony Pro supply if the take-up reel does not keep up with the tape when it comes. Remove the pressure roller, then you may end up with loose tape here and get damaged or the machine will shut down. The reason for this may be due to a component that should ideally be changed here on the sy1 servo board, as the actual motor gets a bit tired major, a couple of component changes here help with both the startup conversation and the amount of talk that was applied to the reels during the unwind, so let's look at them for a moment, so you want to make sure it's rotating. smoothly during play and it doesn't stop or try to catch itself and when you press stop it falls apart and needs to keep pulling the tape onto the reels so we'll see how that happens when you watch them.

They both say that in the end it's fine, but if it doesn't happen, it doesn't necessarily mean that there is a natural mechanical problem, it may be a component change here on the sy1 board, so let's investigate that there is a resistor here and a Zener diode and the part lower. From the board there are now two versions of this board and the components are arranged in different places. This seems to be the most common type, so what we're going to do is change this resistor. I think that starts it. like 2.2 ohms I think it's a fuse resistor and I actually bought and resolved some of these along with the tensioner kits, about 1 ohm I think it's half of the fuse resistors and the diode is a change to a 3.3 volt Zener.

I forgot it. what was the original voltage but it's on the SiC diagram and that's the one that does the playback talk so the diode at the bottom is for the playback talk and the resistor at the top is for the talkback unleashed, so to do that you need to get this. board and although this panel has already had those components replaced, I'm going to show you where they are and show you some of the errors, first of all, of course, you have to turn off your machine, which is extremely important, so you think this will be easy because the board is right here and how hard can it be other than what you imagine so we take out the screw on the back of the PCB holder and then there is an edge connector on the front picture there is an edge connector on a long front. here we go down to meet this front circuit board, so all you need to do is take it out of the edge connector and now you don't even need to undo the wiring at the top to be able to get to the diode, the resistors and the resistors here under the heat sink and put back on these heat resistant sleeves that came from the original, the resistor is the part number is 49 or our 304 nine and the diode is d3 thousand six or d6 and it's on the bottom in this case. from the board, when you change a diode, of course you want to make sure you put it in the right way, so let me find where that diode is and point out to you in a moment d6, there's d6 so you can change. that Zener diode, I'm not sure if this one has been changed, it actually looks like the original wall, so in that case we should go ahead and change that preemptive strike will change it, so there's d6 and the cathode pointing at that direction ah ah Okay, there's the original diode.

Okay, so that diode is marked 2.7, so I suspect it's a two point seven volt Zener diode and the one we're going to put in is, I think, 3.3 volts, yeah, 3.3 volts. I'm a good romantic, in the same way. Don't be and always do it with the diodes is another double check to make sure thathas survived one round, which is fine and then this resistance here which in the original diagram was 2.2 ohms. I think so, we'll change it to 1 ohm, but that's it. It's already been done, so we're not going to do that, but it's clearly the same procedure, so you say what might be difficult about that.

That's a complete walk in the park again, anyone with this holding in can do it in 10 minutes next. The job is to reattach the circuit board, which means plugging it back into the pin set that's on the front panel, which is sometimes tricky, but before we do that, we'll check the solder points here because I've seen that this suffers from dry joints on this connector and also on the panel, so let's go over that with a magnifying glass. Oh yeah, there's no way I can show you that without a microscope, but without one of the pins on your classic dry joint. so they will sell us that it can have some very strange symptoms if they are not in good condition, the machine can act very strangely, it can have symptoms like not having a clock or ignoring certain functions, so we are going to get the Everything with a leaded solder Old LED, so it's the second pin of this one that you attached.

Now the solder is a little generous on some of these pads, so there's always the opportunity to end up with a solder bridge. You really need to be pretty. Beware, it's definitely worth checking this with some kind of microscope to check for solder bridges. I've had it a little 10 times and I'm holding it here but I'm happy it's in good working order now we have to try to put it back in and it's easy to get. is misaligned, we need to put it all the way down and aligned. There is a good case for removing the front panel.

Let me see if I can do it without removing a panel. Yes, I think we have. Actually, I'll look at the front later, but now we can put the PCB holder back on the back. Let's test the machine before proceeding with password rewind and it is working fine. Pause the image. look below we'll look at how to get to the bottom of the machine and also remove the front panel which normally you wouldn't need to do but we'll do it in full today so there's a set. of screws at the bottom, let's remove them. Sanyo has been very careful to say that the screws to remove the front panel here one, two, three and have left spaces in the bottom panel so you can access them without removing the bottom. off I mean that's the kind of attention to detail that Segno applied to these things, they really are brilliant, in this particular case we're going to remove the front panel at the bottom anyway, okay, here we have a bottom PCB that It has some cobwebs. this one so we're going to remove the screws that have the red markings on them just before I move away from this panel.

I will mention that I had a sannio machine a while ago, one of these that had intermittent color and it was due to There is a dry joint on this bottom panel so it's worth giving it a spin to look for drier joints. The right panel moves very well and you can get to the bottom of the day, so here's how the loading engine works if you wanted to do that. your life is a little easier by changing the cargo motor belt, you can do it here is the winch motor head, drum motor, reel motor, cargo motor, so it is a four design motors, let's take a look at the front panel now, as I mentioned earlier, you don't need to remove the bottom to access the front panel because these screw holes are accessible, but let's move on.

What we do need to do before removing the front panel is to carefully remove the tracking control if you forget to remove it. In this particular case, I'm going to put the screws back on this bottom panel because I don't want the board to sway when I'm working on the front, so I'm going to loosen it somewhere and then lose it. just do that and we'll be back in a moment, so we take down the three screws below. I removed the tracking control and then to undo the three screws on the top I tapped my light with a screwdriver and there is a ground extension.

Yes, unplug it, one thing I will tell you is that if you find that the screen is dark very often because this filter has become contaminated, especially if I think someone smoked in the room, then it is worth cleaning it and you may find the screen. It is brighter and sharper as a result of a quick clean there and will very carefully clean the fluorescent screen of the vacuum cleaner. Now there's something on this front panel. Well, several things. I wanted to show you the other end of this connector. This is the part that the server board connects to and that also has to suffer from drying joints, so in general it behaves strangely, it may be worth removing this panel and looking at it, and we'll look at it anyway just to complete these caps on the top and of course by removing this we are disconnecting it from the server ball so here is the edge connector the contacts rotate and are soldered on this side and it's worth checking if there are dry joints there, so I'm going to do that. with a proper magnifying glass now and I would say they all look excellent, those Y joints in this one, but I've seen them well, let me show you another little thing here if you'd like, this has an option like a couple of options, one is three days and eight days, why would you want to simply change the cable's eight-day capacity three-day timer to three days?

So, in mind, I can't do multi-event sync recordings anyway because the melody only had one position. Of course it's all a bit irrelevant nowadays because you can't record anything terrestrial anyway, but this might be right for you, this slot here that says 12 hours, so as it is the screen says AM, which M It is for memory at the counter and p.m. in the morning and in the afternoon The indicators never worked, let's turn it on and you can see if we select set the clock. I'm going to keep my fingers away from this because they are high voltages, you can set hours and minutes but the hours just turn to 24 zero so if you put in a diode. in that 12th position I would operate the AM and PM indicators, will we do it just for fun?

Yes, come on, then let's do it. Is this slot d5? Here you can put a diode there, one in four, one, four, eight or similar, ah, of course. We need to place the diode on the cathode facing the side shown in the diagram. Okay, so we've died for salt in the d5 position. Let's see what happens at the top. Now it says 12 a.m., first missions. Can you see a little? Please, so we've converted that, which is kind of fun, let's reassemble this front panel, let's check that everything is still working fine, ok, let's reassemble the front.

One thing to remember of course is to get this ground in contact if the machine has been abused in the past, sometimes these buttons could break, you may have to solder the plastic a little or try to put them back on. their position, it could be very difficult to completely repair them just before we go through the front, we need to put the screws in. Back here and we'll start with this one holding a screen in place, it looks like it's at the top and we'll insert these tabs in the front. Now we'll look at one of the few areas of the electronics in these machines that can give you a little trouble, which is the power supply area and the two most likely failure positions are some of the capacitors.

They are much better than some manufacturers. These capacitors are actually not bad, but they are worth checking out and verifying. There are two power supply boards here and the other area of ​​failure may be the voltage regulator chip, so it's STK seven two one six. If you passed my rails completely missing, chances are that chip has failed, they're not that hard to source, you can still get them, so let's take a look at some of the capacitors. What's a little annoying is that they're not that easy to work on, we actually have to unplug the power supply to be able to get to a lot of these capacitors, so we're going to black them out, of course, make sure you're not plugged into the mains when I do this or it could be the last thing I do in a short time since I did it.

I have made one so let me remind myself that I will start by disconnecting the connectors, at least some of them are a bit annoying, one or two of the wires have actually been soldered and the connectors at the other end are miles away inside the machine , okay, so there were five. schools how to undo it to get it out now have tolerable access. Okay, we have the power supply up here. Now the capacitors that are most likely to cause problems. Some of these and even these high voltage ones are worth checking out, but there are two here that we should. particularly prone to causing problems with a watch, whether the screen flickers or resets to zero every time you turn on the machine, even ID numbers greater than five two oh four five twenty seven, but I have sometimes found that they actually They are components for at least one of those five twenty seven, I think they are not always installed there, someone else installed it in the dash, so you have to do a little service.

Now we're going to put an ESR meter here on one of them, so let's go. looking for series capacitance and resistance on five two oh four, which is forty-seven Monica fans and having a remote control operation on this fifty-two Markov machine adds zero ESR to make it look absolutely fine and the other one here, which is funny angle on the board, wondered if you were looking in the right place on the circuit so really the only way to test it is to take it off the board, if you have to replace any of these just replace them both or if you have any . problems with the clock not working or flickering or the screen just not right then just replace them both so this is the five two oh seven one and it's weird because it's at a weird angle so it's 100 microfarads 16 volts, Let's see what it measures closing 95 MOCA is not bad, but it is not unusual for it to fail due to the risk that heating has reformed it.

I'll replace it anyway, after all it's old enough and the original was 85 degrees Celsius, but I think it would be better to replace it with 105, so I'm going to replace it with 100 microfarads of 25 volts nominal at 105 Celsius so there's no no problems with that in the future, I have to be a little careful when installing this particular one because it is at a weird angle. and it's under this heatsink, it's really awkward and you shouldn't short it on the nearby Zener diode, so it's a bit tricky. Well, we changed one of those capacitors. Well, I'm reconditioning this power supply now that we plug it in.

It probably wasn't necessary to disconnect those connectors in the first place, so there are these four screws in the corners plus one there. Now one of the capacitors down here is 2200 microfarads. I just reviewed and tested them all very well, but if there is a lot of hum in the image, that is, black bands moving up and down in the image, a capacitor of about 2200 microfarads, there is most likely a culprit So you'll probably want to check all the capacitors if dangling bars now appear in the image. Also, I wanted to show you that the tape we were playing earlier that had really horrible results was moldy, so it's not surprising that it gave terrible results, but if you find tapes that really seem to have a lot of white flashes and I hope they look cleaner .

It could be that the droop compensator would need a little adjustment. This seems to be something that Sanyo set up quite conservatively. In the past I have found that some sanding machines would benefit from a small adjustment to the droop compensator, so the droop compensator. d OC is not bypassed and on the scan on the back you can see it says d OC on there so the drop compensator adjustment has a little preset there if you find you're getting a lot of dropouts that don't seem to be handled correctly it's white stripes on Instead what should happen is a dropout should be the line about dropouts should be repeated so that you actually lose vertical resolution if you think it's not handling dropouts particularly well a small adjustment to the dropout The compensator can help and I found that the machines in the VTC M series serve cVTC m40 particularly prone to that and if there is an impression that the Sanyo machines do not image as well as the Sony ones, I think it is largely due to the control being set conservatively.

If you set it up a bit to compensate for stuttering a little more, you might find a nicer picture on a Soniya machine. There is something about Sonia: the images are somehow a little less fluid than the Sony. It's hard to put your finger on it. I don't know exactly why, but still, sometimes I have the old tape that just won't play on a Sony and plays on a Sanyo, so they may be good machines and can do a great job. Okay,we have finished this particular VDC 5.50 I. I am happy that it is in very good working order.

I'll play some salat tape in a moment and test it out a bit more, but we've been through that and I'd be happy to use that machine myself. To demonstrate that a droop compensator works well on this machine, let's play this horrible moldy tape a bit and you can see that there are occasional interference effects due to the poor quality of the tape, but the droop compensator disabled its own image search, so notice how much worse it is. is during the image search immediately after, just when I exit the image search, a lot of white flashes and trails are seen in that image, they are seen only for the moment, since they appear from time to time, much better, so what? what's going on? there is a dropout compensator that is disabled every once in a while it is enabled and you will see how much better it gets dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout dropout abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment Abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment abandonment I have those whites White all the time, so that would imply that the fall compensator needs adjustment.

It's working fine on this machine, no adjustment needed, so what do we have here? So, another Sonia VTC 5.50. Um, first, we have weird little problems and this is hard. He had never seen anything like this before, so he punched a hole in it. I can't imagine why anyone would drill a hole in the front of a video recorder, so there's a bit of a mystery. I saw the cart accessing them behind the whales we have. let's pair it No, it's working but there's no clock, nothing, no trace of it, we'll put a tape on, this one again it's moldy, there's no picture, not even a hint of a picture, hmm, so what's going on?

Well, two scenarios come to mind. One is that there is a power supply failure that disrupts both the clock and some of the tricycles, resulting in their image or we have two separate problems: the clocks are not working and there is no image due to an electronic fault or possibly. just contaminated heads, so this is going to be a little harder to figure out, let's see what we can find, maybe we should start with the power supply, remove some screws back, let's take a look at the power supply capacitors, Let's first see where. that gets us, and remembering what I said before, let's turn off a monitor so that this five to zero, which I think is 47 microfarads, let's see what we get.

That's terrible. You can see that it reads 37 microfarads over 20 ohms of ESR and the other one I can't really read in such a nice way, so it's like a third one, so we'll take them out and let's see where we get after changing those two capacitors. I checked some of the others and they seem fine, so let's see if that helped anything with the clock function. If not, then I think I'd probably be suspicious of the regulator I see, but no. I would probably try to find the diagrams and check and verify the passerby readings, but right now I don't have the diagrams for the five 150, just four five thousand, okay, let's see what happens and then fill those capacitors, everything is still plugged in .

I haven't done the screws, but can we get a clock? Here is the great spiritual without a clock, so we have bigger problems. Okay, I'll tell you what I've done in the last few minutes. I have followed the path through all the The power supply connectors comparing the voltages to those listed in the VTC 5000 service manual seem to be exactly the same as far as possible and the power supply is fine, so , why is there no clock or image? We do not know. I have cleaned the heads, there is a certain act, actually it is to clean the heads of these.

I love my little mini microscope and I have no chance to show you the way I do this, unfortunately because it is very difficult to do, but with a small microscope. so I understand it so you can see the tips of the head there, obviously, without hitting it and you should be able to get it so you can see the tip of the head shine because it's kind of a shiny black composite graphite material that you should be able to make it shine and when you can see everything shining without any bits of rust attached, you clean it using proper head cleaning swabs, like I showed you before, so I check that the heads were clean, so they're not.

Anyway, the reason there is no image in image search overrides some of the silence of the image, so I should really get something even if it's noise and I don't get anything, so there seems to be a glitch, an electronic failure, I guess I'm going to get to the end of the road on this, then, because we have a failure in the image, a failure image, we have a failure in the clock, less important, but there also the source of power is good, so we don't know why this machine isn't working and I'll probably leave it at that, but I wanted to show you something in terms of debugging, so I'm just going to turn this machine on.

You can easily fool the machine into thinking you have a cassette there. You put your finger here and it makes a little random movement, you can even release that pin and now it thinks it's recording it, so if I select fast forward, it will fast forward and it's actually just checking that this take up reel is spinning, as long as the reel pick up... spinning, which of course is in fast forward, the machine works pretty well without tape there, the rewind works, you'll have to spin it, otherwise you'll think, oh, that's not working, there's a fault, if you do it you do, you can exercise. the deck and you can also exercise it in play and of course the pick up reel is running and you can get an idea of ​​how much receiving talk, if there is a problem with the receiving talk you can put your finger there and get an idea of that so it's a good way to exercise the platform and everything is working fine now I want to show you a bug that this provides that the VTT 5000 this is a 550 applies to this I have a feeling they fixed it in some of the vtc 5 Later 150s, first a little history, the model before the 5000 was strangely five thousand three hundred and five thousand four hundred and they were always interlocking machines of the previous type, now I think they copied some of the code from Cisco on the system computer on this machine and committed an error, so when the machine goes into a fault condition and cannot move the reels, the five 355 350 350 400 would go to their stop position, which is a tied stop that you cannot make.

I want that on these models because they do all that without tying, but I think they left the code in there to tie it, so look what happens when you press rewind and the reel doesn't spin, it ties and stops now, considering you. I just checked that the reel is not spinning properly and therefore cannot put the tape back into the cassette. The last thing you need the machine to do is tie it because when you untie it, if this ball can't spin like it will. because there's no fault here, but if that spool can't spin, you're going to end up with tape spilling all over the deck and it's going to get tangled under the loading ring and it's going to chew everything up now when you press stop, it's going to. successfully run this reel to put the tape back into the cassette, but if your machine doesn't work, for example because the belt broke, now you are in a mess because you pressed rewind, it didn't rewind, this bull was not working, it detected that it fails, it goes into the lacing position, it pulls a bunch of tape out of the cassette, you press stop and it can't suck it back into the cassette, it chews, so that was a mistake on some of these sanneya machines now that I've been working on.

This with the Karagin cassette you can actually even get the carriage out of the cassette completely, so what you have to do is complete two parts in the mechanism, one to say that this is a cassette that this is on and the other is the cassette carriage down, which is this thing here, so you would need simultaneously, when you take this card out of the cassette, pull it forward and push it down and you'll be able to make the machine, in fact, I just did it on that moment, okay, so I've got the situation where the cassette carriage is up or can be removed completely and still the machine thinks it's a set, so it's a great way to debug if you have a problem here with the actual drive, you have some kind of problem with real tables or something to do with the actual drive or interlocking, you can exercise the whole machine now that we don't have a cassette in there, which is very useful, that's the last thing we are going to do on this machine.

We are not going to cover older models like the vtc 5 300 or the vtc 5 400 or the very old vtc 90 300. They have much more complicated mechanisms here and many more wear parts, many of which are difficult to obtain now, so Unless you have some kind of video log of a pair with the requested usage, you're not likely to want to address those older models, however, much of what we've done today covers international variants like these NTSC and SECAM models. Sanyo is a huge force in consumer electronics in the 1980s, but sadly the company is almost gone, having been absorbed by Panasonic and, to a lesser extent, Funai Kyocera and Whirlpool.

It's a shame when you consider how well built these video recorders were. Let's remember their advertising slogan. Look and then decide well if you stay. Until the end of this video, well done, it has been long but we have covered a lot of ground. I hope this was helpful, so please like, share and especially subscribe. Then I will do more content on audio and video technology, goodbye for now.