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In depth figure skating dress TUTORIAL!! Dress #5

Mar 06, 2024
Hi, I'm Tasha and welcome to my video. A minute has passed. My bad life. I received a comment from Xenovia Ray. Thank you and she asked me to do a detailed

figure

skating

tutorial

. It took me a while to decide how to do this because I tend to overthink and get really overwhelmed by the possibilities, but I decide to narrow my focus and make a

dress

that was simple and basic but also not boring, you know, so this is one version of a

dress

that I think is pretty simple. and simple, but you wouldn't like to know and it's the tashtash version to inspire you.
in depth figure skating dress tutorial dress 5
I was browsing pinterest and found this dress right here. I really liked the way the dress flowed and how it got to these, like why I grabbed my hair, how it got to these points for me, at least the most important part of making a dress is having those pretty lines and that good flow. because you know in

skating

you want to have pretty extensions and points and I think your dress should reflect that so I drew my version of the design, it's a little different, it's just two shades, two different fabrics and it's very simple and straightforward.
in depth figure skating dress tutorial dress 5

More Interesting Facts About,

in depth figure skating dress tutorial dress 5...

What you will need to make this dress is a skating dress pattern. I use this jd 3026 which I have used for many videos and I really like it. You need pattern paper or plain paper or you can even use newspaper to make your pattern for the dress. You will need two different spandex or lycra fabrics that are four-way stretch. I chose a black spandex and a black stretch mesh, that's hard to say, but you can make two shades of fabrics or I really like the similar mesh and I like the spandex, it looks great, but you can make two different spandex, it's up to you , you need two different ones. types of elastic, one that measures 3 8 of an inch wide and another that measures a quarter inch wide and the quarter inch wide should match the color of the mesh if you are using mesh, so I have a black elastic from a quarter of an inch.
in depth figure skating dress tutorial dress 5
I also need matching thread and any type of rhinestones you like. I got these silver ones on Amazon Last but not least, you will need some kind of stabilizer. I used a removable iron-on stabilizer, but you can also use freezer paper which I used. That's like all my videos in the past because you can use freezer paper for multiple different crafts so if you're just making a dress once in a while it's better because you can use it for other things but if you're using iron on stabilizer for others sewing projects, then definitely get it because it's much easier and better, but the other one still works, let's start creating the dress.
in depth figure skating dress tutorial dress 5
I started by laying out my pattern and rolled my embossing paper on top, it's nice. of transparent, so with this type of paper you can just trace your pattern, if you want to cut it out, you can cut it out too. I use these patterns over and over again and make dresses for different people, there are different sizes so I don't want to cut it out, but you can cut it out, trace it on pattern paper. If you are using solid paper, it is often easier to place the pattern paper or not, it is often easier to place the pattern. on top of your paper and you can even use a pin and stick it all over, that's an option, but what I did was trace my pattern onto the pattern paper and this pattern actually comes in two forms, the same type of design as What I'm doing, but they're not the same shapes, so what I did was I traced a part of the pattern, then I moved it, and then I finished it, so I ended up with two flat blank pieces that I could then draw my pattern on.
It's best to use very simple designs to start because it can get a little complicated the more you do it, but try to start with a simple design and I mean you could even follow the pattern design, but yeah, I'm doing it. a little bit a little bit you know you have to be creative you don't want to do the same thing all the time if you want to do your thing this is how you do your thing by drawing my own design that I drew First I drew it with pencil and then I drew it with a marker to so you can see it better and then I cut those pieces out.
I also traced and cut out the pattern for the sleeve. The only change I made was that I added a small triangle. on the front because I like sleeves that end in a point and wrap around your finger because to me they look elegant and I like the line it makes for some reason I'm obsessed with lines, I don't know, no I don't know why I cut out a skirt pattern but we'll talk about that later because the skirts and then the last piece of the pattern is the neck piece, after that I used all my patterns to cut them into the fabric I used randomly. objects like pattern weights with my rotary cutter that I like so much to cut the pieces, but you can always just separate them with pins and cut them with scissors, no problem, there is also no need to worry about seam allowances because we are working with very stretch fabric once they are all cut this is what they look like all my pieces are starting out let's connect them first first I'm going to create my front and back pieces I ironed my stabilizer onto the back of my mesh fabric and then I pinned my spandex fabric on top making sure everything was lined up correctly.
The reason I'm pinning it is because the iron-on stabilizer doesn't go through all fabrics. Then, using a basting stitch, I connected the pieces and The foundation stitch is a straight stitch with the longest stitch length on your machine. The reason I do this is that spandex gets very slippery and helps keep the pieces from moving around, especially when it comes to pins and stuff, so it's always a good idea. To do this first step just to make sure everything is stable, on top of that you have the stabilizer, which is another tool to make things stable, flat and easy to sew after the basting stitch, I used a slight zigzag to connect the pieces.
Right at the edge of the spandex fabric, once you're done with that zigzag, you can remove the stabilizer from the iron. Be careful not to rip out the stitches, do it carefully but it's a really fun and satisfying part, then make sure my seam is super flat. I ironed it. Be careful when ironing spandex fabrics and mesh fabrics. You never know if you will burn them or melt them, so be sure to test a piece of fabric before continuing. This may seem a little strange. I did this in my Rocket Man video. um, but I bedazzled the dress, which seems strange because the bedazzled part feels like the icing on the cake, like the last thing you do and often depends on the project you're doing if you're making a dress for someone else. and you don't know what kind of glare they want, so obviously you're going to do it at the end, but when you do it at the end you're going to have to make sure you're not gluing the two sides together they can be put like cardboard in the middle and it's not the worst, but I've Found that it's much easier to do most of the dazzling before even plugging it in, which feels bad, but it works, I like it.
I like it, I use e6000 glue to glue my glares, be careful, don't get poisoned like I did before, use it in a well ventilated area with a mask, there are other ways to glare and you can also get a glare with the iron. -on the back of the rhinestones but I personally think the e6000 glue sticks the strongest and they never fall off, well not ever but they are much less likely to fall off but use whatever method you prefer too a quick tash tip if you're using the e6 styling glue and you get these bits like when you use a hot glue gun and you get those like weird threads, use a little piece of tape and you might like stick them stick them and use the tape to stick them and take them off and it makes it a lot easier it's a little bit different script here are my dazzling designs I chose a very simple scatter and with dazzling are you nice Either I have to go very random which is what I did or be super precise and I like the edges of the lines and making designs, but I wanted to do something badass, you know, if you see the Gracie Gold dress or a lot of these newer dresses.
They're very, very simple and basic, just a lot of sparkles and probably a lot of Swarovski crystals which I don't have the budget for, but you know you can really elevate that simple dress with a lot of sparkles. so you can do that I mean do that once this is done I sewed the sides of the shoulders and cross stitched them for my dress the front and back connect so you have the similar mesh tops and then the spandex bottoms. and you want those seams on the sides to connect so that the line on your side here of your spandex lines up correctly and don't be afraid to do a little hand basting stitch to connect it in the right part because Often when you start sew these fabrics, they like, they love to do it to the abyss and that's really annoying, so don't be afraid to do little hand stitches if you feel like things are going to move on one of the sides that I did it on.
It came out perfect and then on the other side it was a little dull and if it was for someone else I probably would have redone it but the way the seam turned out on mine it doesn't really show, you could also add a little shine. to cover it up if you need it, by the way, for this dress I have a serger, which is super exciting for me, this is the first skating dress I've used it on so I'm still kind of figuring out how to do it. You don't need to use the serger for this, although your machine may have a stretch stitch.
Oh, that's hard to say stretch stitch on my regular machine. I usually use a lycra stitch or if you have a very basic machine, usually a pattern will tell you to do two straight lines of stitching plus a zigzag, but you know, read your pattern. Those are the things I've used that have worked in the past for the next part. I made a small mistake in the order of operations. I was doing it, but I'll explain it in the right order, so the closure on this dress that I chose is like a teardrop bow on the back of the dress with a little snap clasp.
What you need to do to start is apply the elastic. to the loop part before the neck I did it backwards, don't do that, so start with the elastic, to do this pin the elastic at the top and for this one it is not so critical that the elastic pulls a certain amount. or not, so you just pull it slightly and make a zigzag stitch. I like to use a three length and three width on this one and you do a zigzag stitch in the middle of the elastic while pulling it slightly around and then folding it over.
It's finished and you make another one of the same zigzag on the edge between the elastic and the base fabric all the way around and it makes a nice closed elastic seam or seam, what would you call that seam? I don't know, it's a nice elastic. edge after sewing the loop you can sew the collar and you should end up with a little bit of leftover fabric on each side of the loop that you can attach the clip to now these are the clips I wanted to use and then I forgot I used the black ones on another project, so I only had the white one so I thought it would look weird so I used a regular clip and I was a little worried it wouldn't hold properly but it worked. alright, so you could use those too, maybe add two or three if you're not comfortable, but yeah, these I hand sewed and you sewed them nicely onto the sleeves before sewing them together.
I looked up this part of the point I just added. a seam line in my mind, I was thinking maybe that would make it easier to fold and sew, but it honestly didn't do much so you don't need to do it or you can if you want. Once that point was sewn, I sewed the arm seam and then folded over the pointed area and did a slight zigzag around it to finish that edge. I also ended up doing this later for some reason but after that you can use the same elastic that you used for the top teardrop loop to make a loop for the pinky finger and you just make a little loop and sew it on one side to the other and from side to side to make sure it fits snugly just for the point of the little finger. cute I like it once sewn I sewed the sleeve to the armholes to finish off the bodice we need to sew the leg holes I like to use the thicker elastic around the leg holes and I feel like it doesn't stretch as much as stretch too much, the Thinner elastics tend to stretch too much and then lose their shape, so I like the thicker ones to hold everything, you know, for the size of the elastic, I've had the feeling of making a bit of a loop smaller than the hole in the leg, I know, in the patterns it will tell you the length, it's a bit of trial and error so don't be afraid to try it and then you'll know how to undo it if necessary when I was starting out, I think the first dress I made, I unbuttoned the leg holes like three or four times because they didn't fit right, so don't be afraid to try it.
I found that if I'm just pulling the elastic around they tend to have a bit of an uneven stretch. I don't know how to tell an uneven stretch around the leg hole, so for me it's a much safer way to make the loop first and sew it and then split the leg hole.the leg and the elastic. in eighths, fix them all over and this time was the first time I used the serger to mend the leg hole first, but you can do this just with a zigzag, it works exactly the same: you do a zigzag all the way around or you look for it . like I did and I'm not used to doing this with the serger so it wasn't perfect but it still worked well and then you fold it over and over like this, back to your drop loop you do another zigzag all around . between the elastic and the base fabric and I like to use that three lengths three widths zigzag again there you have it the body is done achievement oh no now it's time for the skirt my most feared part so the skirt is difficult for me so if we You're not alone because I've made a lot of dresses and I still find this part difficult.
The way I like to do it is by separating the body from the skirt and it's a challenge. It's a time and a half and I'm getting better with practice. Here is my skirt. pieces, I'm trying to mix different skirt patterns, so that's not how they ended up turning out, I made them too big and stuff, but if you're starting out, really follow your skirt pattern into your dress pattern, it's a lot. easier I started the skirt by joining the front and back pieces together towards the sides, adjusted them as I went and then tried it on.
It's a good idea to try on and take off your skirt frequently if you're doing this for Usually your measurement is to fit the skirt, if you're making it for someone else, this was the first fitting I did and you can see it's too long, so I definitely cut it for a spandex skirt like this, it's you. There is no need to hem the bottom. Honestly, most of the time I wouldn't bother because it looks totally fine and hemming is hard so it's not necessary, but I have a question from Anna B and she said how.
Do you hem stretch fabrics, lycras and knits? I tried using a simple elastic stitch, but even though I try not to pull, I always end up with an unwanted lettuce hem and, man, I feel like I love a good lettuce ham, but when it's unwanted it's one of the most frustrating things in the world. whole world, let me tell you that I am going to hem the edge of the skirt just because it is a good opportunity to show it, but you don't have to do it, you can do it. You don't have to rely on yourself, this fabric does not fray so you know there are many different types of stretch fabrics so this may not work for everyone but this is how I hem dress fabrics. skating, the added challenge in this.
One thing you should keep in mind is that this skirt has a curved hem and that makes life much more difficult. I mean, even you know it. Makes me crazy. Sometimes I go to the store and buy a dress. I'm trying on a dress or a skirt and they have a curved hem and even their hems are twisted and bad so don't feel bad if you're struggling with this because all curved hems are one hell of a struggle and a half okay. Don't feel bad, but yeah, for the skirt I started by ironing the hem about uh, I think I did about an inch and a half using the iron, I ironed sections and then pinned them in place, they're not going to fit.
Perfect, okay, don't expect it to be like cotton fabric, it doesn't bend that easily and I'm afraid of getting too hot because I don't want it to melt, just do your best. I pinned it evenly and then to sew it I used a slight zigzag instead of a straight stitch. I think it's not an area that is under tension so it doesn't need to be a full zigzag but I think that slight zigzag makes it a little easier maybe it's just me now if your hem was a straight hem no it was a curved hem you shouldn't pull on your machine at all if you have to pull You may have different problems first.
I recommend that you get a walking foot. They are very cheap to get online and make a big difference. I like to always use my foot to walk. I forget that I always have my walking foot on my machine, I don't know why I leave it like that or if you have a lot of problems, I would even recommend using that ironing stabilizer again just to keep it flat. I think some people even just use a sheet. of paper to keep things flat and moving, so if your hem is straight you shouldn't pull at all, that's what will give you the correct lattice hem, it's like that, so try to look for different options that will make you avoid I hope May that help with the curved hem.
It's kind of inevitable to pull a little bit and I don't want to call it pulling. I like to call it maneuvering through the machine and a little bit, I don't know. I did this kind of move to maneuver it, so whatever amount of bunching you get, you're trying to even redistribute it as much as you can so that whatever kind of warp you get. it's so level that it doesn't cause large sections of stretching or bunching, you know, it's just the problem you'll have when you fold a larger circumference over a smaller one, there's always a little bit of excess fabric, right, it has to go somewhere part, it does not simply disappear.
Now my last trick to help this type of hem lay flat is to then iron it so you can see what it looked like before when I sewed it and then this. This is what it looked like after I ironed it and I think it honestly looked pretty good. I was very happy with the last but not least. The final part is connecting the skirt to the body. This part is like my nemesis. I hate doing this. the worst, but you know what we do, we finish it, so you're going to have a hard time with this.
I struggle with this all the time, so get that out of the way and know what this is going to be like. It's a tough time and we're going to deal with it, so what I do with this is try the skirt on again and make sure to pin it where it flows off the body as best as possible so it reaches the top. of your hip bones here, it depends a little on the design of the skirt you're making, but I like when it hits your hip bones and then it should hit the front of your stomach, where it flows out of your body and then into the back a little lower so it doesn't bunch up too much in the small of your back.
I know it sounds a little strange, but it ends up looking a little different on each person, so when you're making a dress for someone else, you're like putting the skirt on because people are different, you know, yeah, just put it wherever you like. good and if it doesn't look right, just take it out and redo it once it's set. on the sides, front and back, I took it off and tried to curve it so it had nice curves on each pin on the side. I also try to match the pins because sometimes you might like to pin them slightly different so I try. so they are the same height from the bottom of your bodysuit and then I try my best to make a nice curve and pin them all over and then again like before what we did at the beginning, I baste them all inside out just to help keep it from moving as much as possible and then you hold it up and do a zigzag just like the front, the same way you would do an appliqué, you know, and somehow for this dress I did that first.
I tried it and I thought this is progress, it's like I'm finally starting to do this first attempt because for a long time I just did it and then I messed it up and then I started again and I've even hand stitched different types of skirts because sometimes Sometimes they are a little more complicated than others, but you know, do the best you can and know that you can always unpick them and try again. I know it sounds easy but it can be frustrating and I'm just here to tell you, keep trying, keep going because you can do it, if I can do it, you can do it once.
I even ruined a dress for my friend and she needed it for the next day and she was hoping to make it all. new dress in three hours and let me tell you it was a journey so keep trying you got this boo go and that's my dress it's been a journey I hope it's been deep enough I feel like I can go on for hours and hours and hours but that's the best I can do for now I'll do more in the future but yeah I like how this dress turned out and now you're probably just saying like Tasha I want to see the final results so you can Look there you go thanks for look, if you have any comments, ask, let me know if I did anything strange, let me know and I hope that some of my little tips and tricks have helped you on your journey to creating your own dress and, yes, I hope that I won't see you in six months , Maybe before.
Um, wow, anyone who subscribes, bye.

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