YTread Logo
YTread Logo

SilverBack 6060 - Bigger Projects Using the Easel Tile Feature

Mar 24, 2024
Hello and welcome back to Ingrained Woodworks, today we are going to work on an

easel

project that may include some mosaics, so I want to make some big letters for my sister's dance school that they can use to pose with. Now these letters i've been asked to make two feet wide by three feet high. This is the perfect opportunity to practice some mosaic work, so we're going to try to put mosaics here on an

easel

and do that carving, we'll see how it works, if it works very well. Not so, we will learn a lot, I'm sure.
silverback 6060   bigger projects using the easel tile feature
I already have the project created on an easel, so I'm going to go ahead and click on the project here and I'm

using

two foot by four foot pieces of uh. half inch layer and this is just a sanded layer, nothing special and we're only going to use two feet by three feet, but I left it at this full length and this one in particular is just a good representation of what can be done with the hobby it's pre cutting wood if you don't have the equipment to cut plywood sheets yourself so we have our first work piece here and this is the j so we're going to cut a j a d or two d and an s so you can See here it has multiple sections that extend beyond the standard size of the workpiece, so the first thing we're going to do is make sure that we're on the right machine and, in fact, I'm going to go. and I'm going to rename this machine so we can make sure that you guys can see what it is, so we're going to edit the machine, we're going to rename this as

silverback

, we're going to save it now, one thing we're What we're going to do here for our spindle is to change our spindle from automatic to manual so when we get into the machine we're going to go to, I think, here the general settings and we're going to change the spindle control to manual and that's because we changed the makita router right before this particular project, so if we don't select manual here, it will automatically try to turn on the spindle by activating these cables that were going to the spindle before and since I did it.
silverback 6060   bigger projects using the easel tile feature

More Interesting Facts About,

silverback 6060 bigger projects using the easel tile feature...

I didn't make sure everything works completely exactly how I want it and put a routed power strip here. I have the machine cable not routed in the cable chain, so I just want to make sure nothing happens to these cables. while they're temporarily placed where they are and once that's done, we can click outside of this box and make sure everything is set up here, so we'll set our size here, although it's 24 inches by 48 inches long. I want to set this to the maximum length that I actually intend to cut and this will get to where it won't tell me a wrong measurement or when I center the letter here it won't give me the wrong uh.
silverback 6060   bigger projects using the easel tile feature
There will be incorrect dimensions or layout on the inside, which will make it a little harder to center, so we'll leave it as 24 by 36, our first

tile

will be 18 inches, the next

tile

will be 19 inches, and We make sure that we enable tiling and that our number of tiles is two overlapping, which gives us a little bit of extra wiggle room where it's basically going to clip in the old part so that you have peace of mind knowing that we're cutting down the right path, I'm going to leaving that overlap, it's a little bit more forgiving on the bit that we're going to use, we're going to use a quarter inch twist drill bit, so I've got that. selected and I have it installed on my router here so we are ready to continue with our cutting setup now with this makita router we can go reasonably fast and the machine will definitely handle it.
silverback 6060   bigger projects using the easel tile feature
This is a solid machine, so we're going to go to 80 now, if you look at the auto setting, it was set to 30 inches per minute, so we're going to go to 80 inches per minute on our dip rate, we're actually going to increase to 20 inches per minute on our depth per pass, we're cutting a half inch here and I'm going to use half the size of the bit that I'm

using

so I'm going to go to an eighth of an inch so aim one two five and then we are fine with the compensation here. I'm going to cut this again if I didn't notice this immersion

feature

appear until I bought Pro, not just the free trial, but I bought it, so I'm not sure if you will.
Have it if you are still on the free trial, if not, once you purchase you will have this option to get started with a ramp. I'm happy with that setup, very simple here, we just type a j and fill the space with it as much as possible because we want to take up as much of that sheet as possible. I don't want too much to go to waste. Let's use eyelashes. I want to have tabs here, so now we're using tabs. and I'm actually going to set this up, I want it to hold up a little bit tighter, so I'm going to do eight tabs and you'll see that it spaces them along our staircase here pretty well, so we've got a good spacing there, I'm comfortable. with that i think it will stay fine, our tabs are a quarter inch long by 0.08 inch tall and that should be enough to keep this in place.
Our cut we're cutting all the way through so it's going 0.05 inches um and this bed has been lined so we should be able to set it to that zero point or 0.5 and cut it all the way down to half an inch deep once we're done cutting and I think we are ready to carve, so let's click on carve, first we are going to refine the machine. Alright, our machine is at home. Now it tells us to align our material, so let's align it with the front of the machine. at zero inches, so we're going to take our first sheet of material.
Let me see if I can do it without removing the microphone from the computer. Here, so I'm going to take my first sheet of material and place it. on the machine now I have the benefit of knowing that this j is going to be cut on this side of the machine, so I'm going to take my drill and run a small screw into this workpiece to hold it steady. and then I'll run a second once I'm comfortable with his position. Doing so will be the most positive grip we can have on it and won't make it difficult for us to move it as we go down. workpiece, so I'm going to grab my drill and a screw, so I've got a couple of screws here, just short drywall screws.
I'm going to align my piece to the left edge of this rubble board and we're lining it up as close to zero as possible it doesn't really matter in this particular case because I'm a little bit longer and we're going to move down so as long as we mark where that is zero point we'll be Okay, however, I'm going to line it up with the end of my scrap board just to make it easier to measure, so we'll go ahead and screw this workpiece together. Okay, let's confirm the alignment of the material. confirm our thickness and we leave this as birch ply, everything is cut the same when it comes to true ply, so no need to change it, but if you want to be more particular, our material may be safe.
I'm going to throw it away. a second screw just to make sure that we're not going to move there's a second screw that we're locked in and you may need to put one in this bottom corner here to keep this flat now I know if I go all the way to this corner that's going to hold it and it's not going to get in the way of our cutting, so I'm going to put one right there and run one over to the other side of the corner, okay, so we have our four screws. there, keeping everything flat on our scrap board material, it's safe now I have an up cut bit selected here, I'm using a down cut bit to start, I'm going to follow that along with the vacuum so I don't have to worry. about the chips getting stuck in there, but if you are running without dust collection, make sure you select run the cutting bit up to get the chips out unless you are going to fail with the vacuum now.
I'll do it once too. start running this, I'm going to watch this screw very closely just to make sure we don't run into anything because I'm going to show you here that this j comes out towards the center by a decent amount and I guess we could measure it so we know it's going to be around 14 inches on that side so we can take a tape measure and make sure that yeah, let's see we're under 14, so we have to be good at staying out of the way. that particular line, but we want to make sure that's the case because if you cut one of these screws you're going to destroy your bit.
The screws are incredibly hard and are the absolute worst thing you can find with a carbide drill bit. I'm going to go back to carving here confirm my alignment confirm my material thickness ensure confirm my drill bit now we're going to move the machine to get our starting point um so I'm going to start by moving it um let's say uh no this is inches so we're going to do 20 inches and that will allow it to run nice and fast again. We are watching our cable until we decide what our cable management strategy will be. We are looking at how to do it.
I'm sure we're not going to run into anything, so we get to over 20 inches where I move forward on the y-axis 20 inches. Make sure you have enough cable. I don't want it to have problems working. this program is okay now we're going to test our z height here we're going to place our clip we're going to place our probe underneath and we're going to click on the probe here we're going to confirm the position that our clip is actually attached and we're going to touch it to make contact , make sure the tip has contact so our touch plate is in place and start probing now it's going to come down and touch our touch plate and contact, we're good, we'll remove our z probe and The z probe is stored now we're going to set our x and zero, so we're going to start at this bottom corner here, that's where our zero zero is in our layout, so we're going to advance this and we're going to advance this one inch at a time, so now we're going to switch to point one and we're going to advance this inward and we will go to point zero one, we have to go back a little, here we go and in an easy way.
To make sure it's in the right place, we can move the axis down and make sure this is where we want to be. Now what I'm going to do is land and give it a little spin just so it knows where I am. You see, that made a mark right in the corner like that so we could realign this bit. If something happens and I lose my file there, I'll set it to zero and then you'll see here, confirm that our spindle is on. Now you'll notice that it doesn't say turn on spindle anymore and that's because we have this makita router here and we changed it to manual spindle for our setup, so Let's turn on our spindle and we're going to turn this on.
I think two and a half is probably a pretty safe measurement to start with, for our speed, we'll see as it feeds, if we need to adjust this depending on the chip load we're getting, let's say the spindle is on, now let's carve , oh, you see we had a problem where our shaft doesn't touch where it's supposed to be, so we're going to turn it off. the spindle will come back home and we'll re-zero our touch probe just to make sure and I think it's because I moved it down after we had set our zero so we'll go back to carving and we can click on some of these options before we start here, we're going to try, we're going to jump and set our z height again and I'm going to lower it so it doesn't have as much distance.
To poll, confirm the position our clip is placed, that it is in place and start polling. Now we can save our z probe. Now we're going to move our machine to set our x and zero and that looks good to me, so we're going to set our x and y spin to zero on our axis, the axis is on and we're going to let it eat right, so you'll see here, my piece caught this piece because accidentally cut the tab down here, it's not really a big deal because I'm just going to sand it down to a smooth surface while they're painting, but keep in mind that's something that could definitely happen, so now we have the first part of our Well done carving. now to cut our second tile, we go to our material settings and check tile two, we are going to click on carve, now it tells us to lower the bottom of our workpiece 17 inches, so we are going to use the same zero from before and you know it, so I'm going to send this out of my way, so I'm going to send the gantry back 20 inches just to make sure it's out of my way and I'm going to To start removing the screws right now, let's slide this down.
Now I've got it perfectly aligned with the corner here and then along the side it's still aligned with the corner, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to move this down and I'm actually going to grab my air hose so I can blow it out. this and I'll blow it up. I've got them a little good, so let's move this forward 17 inches, let me. Take my pencil and I'll mark my 17 inches 17 inches and we'll lower this down until it lines up. Now we're good, so I'm going to re-secure this and I can reuse these two screws. holes here because they are still in good places, in fact, I'm going to move this one in case something goes wrong, I don't want to accidentally pull a screw out of there with my drill bit, so now we're good.
I have three screws there,we've lined up our material, we know our thickness is completely safe, we're using a quarter inch drill bit, we say manual, we're going to use the last position, we turn our spindle and we carve. mI'm going to hold my hand on the stop here in case it decides it's going to dive into some wild place, yeah, we're pretty good, and there it is and as you saw, it didn't really like the tabs that I selected for this, like this They are not too big. Okay, like I said, they're being painted, so the tabs that were left in this little mark here and here will be sanded, as well as our little overlap, this just shows where a perfect alignment needs to be done if you're doing something like this now. , if you were just making a sign, would anyone notice this a little more than a sixteenth of an inch?
What we overlapped here probably isn't that important, but if you're making a piece like this with a continuous border, then you have to keep an eye on that, but other than that, I'd say it was a success. I have four more pieces to make for you.

If you have any copyright issue, please Contact