SUPER TRENDY BOXY COAT TUTORIAL (+pattern)! - THISISKACHI DIY

Hello guys and welcome back to my channel. Today we are going to make a winter

coat

. We'll just do it every winter. It seems like last year we also made a

coat

which, by the way, is the coat I wear all the time. Now you can watch the video here and today we are going to make a coat inspired by the 60s, not the 60s itself, but we definitely took inspiration from that, since it is a very straight and cute coat, it will be a double-breasted coat with a collar small and shoulder pads and with a really very pretty shape, this is the drawing I have, this is my sketch.

I have this beautiful wool fabric that I already showed you on my Instagram if you follow me there, you know this one and I'm

super

excited to make this one. I thought it would be a great starting point. This is my boucle Jeanette jacket, which I also have a video of. You can see it here. It has a

super

, very nice shape, it has very wide shoulders, it's obviously not a coat, so it's not an outer garment, but you can wear it over, for example, this sweater, this sweatshirt, which is very important to me , although there are some problems with this fit because the armpit is too small so I definitely have to widen the sleeves, but the shoulders look pretty good, they seem to be the shape I want, obviously this is super slim.

I don't want to have that for my coat. I'm just going to have a straight line, if anything, more of an A line, then this shape, so that's something I'll change considering the shoulders, which is harder to get the shape right in my opinion, that's the best starting point if having shoulders that work is a good starting point, so I thought this is a great

pattern

to have as a base. I will link the original

pattern

in the description box below, you can see it there. I have like a black wig and cyber week sales. is happening right now in my shop so you can go check it out and grab any pattern you like and this one is obviously in my shop too so that's going to be the pattern we're going to make with this so the coat I'll be too in my shop when you see this hopefully so I'll grab the pattern and then we can get started.

This is the model I made and I already see many things I need. To change the first thing I did was widen the neckline, which I shouldn't have done because it was already widened, obviously, since we had one color on the original jacket, so that's something I have to basically undo and just add a centimeter on At least that's what I thought, but now that this is going to end up somewhere in here, you know now there's a lot of space that needs to be put into a dart, if I like to do this, therefore shorten the neckline. in general, instead of just adding the centimeter in the neckline I took out and now here in the back I have the same problem.

I have too much fabric and I feel like I can't get it down to the armhole. At least it seems to look a little better on me, something like that I think would work. I'm layering it over a sweater so I know it will fit on me, you know, like thicker clothes on me, it doesn't look so bad. probably because I had the sweater underneath on the bus, it seemed like the shoulders were too wide, but this is what the first mockup looks like, yeah, I think we can continue with this, so let's make all the changes.

I also have my slit down here I don't know if you can see that but I have my slit and now I want to have pockets and I think I'm going to have them somewhere here it's going to be somewhere here now what I have to do is Take away my mockup and draw all the changes that I made, so I'll use any pen and I'll like to line all the darts that I put in and the changes, etc., because I feel like that's it. I really like it. the box shape, then we can move on to the sewing process, okay, so all my pattern pieces are now cut out and prepared.

All of that will be in the interlining guide in the sewing instructions. Specifically for my fabric, I put interfacing on all of my pattern pieces. So I also did the full back. There will be a slight difference from that in the interfacing guide as you usually only like the top part so don't be confused by that, that is just due to my fabric as it was very wobbly and I just wanted it to be more stable. I also added the interface ribbon everywhere I need it and now we can go ahead and start our first step, so this pattern is actually super easy.

We don't have a lapel, we only have a collar. it's like a fold over collar, a pretty wide one and other than that we just have a two part front and back sleeve and that's it and obviously we have a lining too so let's do that too oh yeah we have too a slit in the center back so we're going to focus on how we are, we're sewing slits with linings. I'm going to show you that too. I'm not going to go into too much detail about the lining because I've shown it many times in other projects.

I'll link you specific videos for the liner in the video description below and then when the time comes I'll link it in the eye so we can go ahead and close the center back. seam from here to the start of the slit, now to the start of the slit, if you mark on the diagonal edge and then also on the back center edge, you can see that this is right where they both meet, so that's exactly how far we're going to sew, we will also do it for the other side and then we will sew from that point to the neckline, so while I was sewing I made sure that the pattern matched here as much as possible.

Look, it's obviously a plaid pattern, so I'm trying to match all the divine lines here, the fabric was a little crooked, it feels like the pattern is forming some kind of waves. I don't know, it was very difficult to cut the pattern. out of this fabric because it just didn't want to do what I wanted it to do, but it's okay, I made it work somehow now that we've sewn it. I'm just going to iron the center back to open it up and then here for the slit I'm going to have the slit open so I can put my hand in from the right side so to do that I have to cut into my slit right here and that way the margin of seam can be left open but we can fold this over to the side where it's supposed to be folded, so I'm just going to press this flat, let's continue with the shoulder seams.

Now we can use our front pieces, put the right sides together at the shoulder seam and close the shoulder seam right here where the shoulder seam goes. I ironed on the back and I'm also going to add a top stitch, probably about a centimeter, just as a decorative element, honestly, so I'm going to sew like here. I completely forgot about the clamps on the front and rear pieces, which is Okay, everything is still accessible, but obviously you should do it from the beginning because it's easier to work with a smaller piece than this big piece I have here, so obviously we're going to close our darts in front. and back with this, now you can see very well how our darts are going to shape our neckline and therefore the whole piece to put them on, we're just going to put the right sides of these beginnings together and then also the tip and just Thing where we mark it to iron this.

I'm going to use the hem of my Taylor and I want to do something special because I want to sew them over the top for decorative purposes since this is a dart and it's going to a point. I'm thinking about putting more material here to cushion these points so I can do it like this, so I tried it now and it worked very, very well, it seems like it even looks cool. I put it next to the dart just two centimeters more times. The length of the dart piece here doubled so I put two layers of fabric next to it, I just put it in place so it wouldn't move so I sewed from the top starting from here up so I just liked this guy.

J shape here and then I saw that actually from up here I'm not even catching the snap, I'm just catching it down here, which obviously makes sense since the dart is going towards one point and I cut the webs off of both. layers, one smaller than the other and then I just put an interface on top so that nothing you know breaks or whatever and honestly, I think that's what we're going to do. It looks really great, it's actually super professional and you don't. I have some problem with sliding. I really like this look, so another thing I usually do at first, but I don't know where my hat was yesterday, it was late at night.

The pockets, so I want to make some pockets. with a pocket flap I already prepared the other side off camera so this is how it will look so the first thing is that I drew the location of the pocket, I made a two centimeter rectangle and then I also made the typical lines in the middle you can find the exact location and also what you are supposed to draw on your fabric on the right and wrong side, as you can see it is also on the wrong side here, you can find it on your front piece and Now we are going to need our pocket trim , which is the rectangular-shaped piece, and the pocket flap and the pocket flap.

We have to prepare all of this, so what I like to do is start with the pocket trim, iron it down the middle and then I would also like to add the lines on my pocket trim, so I'll just mark my sewing lines so that everywhere, one centimeter from the edges, we can also prepare the flap of our pocket. Those pieces are simply joined with the right sides and view as possible. Look, here it's a little bit smaller than the piece on the outside. However, you will have to put them together easily, so you will have to stretch the face so that both pieces are together because that will help you.

Once you turn everything over, let's sew everything here so it's a little bit cleaner. Once you turn the red sides over, I'll cut the seam allowance here at the corners of the lining piece. Now, once we turn this around, you'll want to settle down. we want it to sit, let's press that and I'll add a top stitch at about eight millimeters, seven millimeters, something like that up here. I also want to add the seam line and now we can place the two pieces so that the piping and the pocket flap in our prepared opening, this is my side seam and down here is my center front, so the piping goes into the side that is furthest from the side seam with the open edge facing the pocket and this should match perfectly with the pocket that you drew on your front piece, what we want to do now is pin right on the seam line marked here on the corner where both meats check that the other side also matches and then we're going to enter.

Right here in this corner, the bottom line is our sewing line and this should match up with pins in place and repeat the same for the other side. I'm also going to add several pins along the seam line when we're facing the wrong side. You can also see that the pins match the seam line here and now we're going to sew from this corner here, so from the needle here to the needle there above the drawn seam line. Now, grabbing my pocket flap face up, you will find that the pocket flap is as big as the pocket itself or at least that's what it should be, that's exactly how we're going to sew this on this type of es a little bit smaller, so I'm going to stretch it out by pinning this edge here right in the corner, the same thing goes to the other side and now we can sew from this needle to this needle, so from one quarter to the other now I like to turn it inside out of the fabric and just cut it down the middle of our pocket and open the front piece right between the two lines that we sewed and now when I get to the triangles on each side, I'm going to cut. right to where I sew, so if it's a little bit off of what I drew, I'm going to the seam line, not the drawn line, and I'm going to cut right in the corner and this will basically make it possible for us to place the binding like this on the wrong side of the fabric, this is exactly the height and the flap is just folded up here and now when we remove this side here, we will have these triangles visible and these triangles will be sewn. the trim here I'm not going to do that yet because I want to attach the pockets before that so I'm just going to pin it in place with needles on the same side here and now we can put the pockets on the front piece so I'm going to put the wrong sides facing up and we have the bottom and top pocket, these have two different sizes, the top pocket is more towards the front with the trim basically adding the two centimeters of width that the bottom pocket has. this is where it's going to be attached, we can put the right side of the bottom pocket, the larger one, into the seam allowance of the pocket flap like this and then we can sew this together by sewing the seam allowance so that we don't want to sew any more in the piece that sews the pocket flap sewing line.

Now when we put this to the side, we can also pin the top pocket to the pocket and I'm also going to put the right sides together and join the seam allowances to the binding now we can sew these two onto the outside pocket, so now, when we have the wrong side up all the pieces should line upperfectly and what I really like to do is iron the pocket here flat and Now I like to fix all of this here in place, so I want the piping to be invisible from the right side here, so I'm just going to put a needle in and then I want to do the same thing on this side and just give this a press and now I can peel this off and then start sewing here and go around the pocket to the other side here and then also fix this here in place.

I want to sew right above where I drew here, so this is my sewing line as well and then the pocket is ready. I'm going to add a top stitch here like I did here too, so I liked a C shape here and that's the completed pocket, going on to the collar. I have my inner color here, which is the one that adheres to the outer fabric that we've been working on and this one is placed on the bias so that it folds better and has a better shape, so we just need to close the center back here and iron it open and this is what the color looks like and this is my exterior color.

Now you normally don't have a center back seam for the outer collar. I would not recommend you do that on the pattern piece it is also written cutting. on the fold, that's just a special case here for me because of my fabric and the problems I had with it, let's continue as if I don't have a seam on my outer collar, the one that doesn't lie on the bias and Continue putting the inner collar on our coat, so you'll find a notch here that marks the center. The front the same thing goes to the other side and that's up to where we're going to put our color and then I'm going to match my color starting from the center back which is marked by the seam and then match these specific points that I've marked on my color here is the shoulder seam and then here this matches the center front, careful because We have seam allowance in our color, of course, so that our color matches the center front point on the seam line that I marked here.

I just measured a centimeter in and now I can go ahead and attach the middle pieces here if so. It doesn't seem to line up because you have opposite curves, so I like to cut the curve here so that it opens up at the sewing line and now I can sew from this point here all the way to the center back to the other point on the other side, like this It's how it looks. I'm going to try to iron everything on the collar and for that I'm just going to put everything I leave on my Surface and now in preparation we're just going to cut. the seam allowance, as this will help the color look better in the end.

Now let's continue with the other color and the front, so I have the front here and then also the back neck and the outer collar to tie them together. To put the view together first, so let's put them together at the shoulder, which is the shoulder seam here and on the other side as well so we can put the collar on, so let's close the shoulder seams, let's iron the shoulder seams Me I like to iron them open just to prevent them from being bunchy and now we can put the collar by putting the color on the neckline here in the view it works exactly the same and now I can match the center back to the center back in the color and I can also sew this on the same.

Here we're going to iron the seam allowance on the collar and it's probably not the worst idea to also cut the seam allowance here. Okay, now we can put these two pieces together. for that I like to place my pieces in front of me and then I like to start in the center back. I'm just going to join all the seams, all the notches here where the center front is, we need to cut too. the seam allowance at the collar, so I'm going to cut all the way to the seam line like this so it opens up and once we put these pieces together, this can sit independently of the collar seam.

Here let's do the same thing for the other color and now once we put these two pieces together, this should form more or less a straight line where we want the sewing lines of both color pieces to match, so I'm just going to put a needle in the middle to fix that. in place and then continue with the collar and also pin it in place and like I said the outside color is a little bit bigger so we have to soften both colors by just pulling it so that when you combine the center front pieces . You will find that the view is much shorter than the actual front, that is because it already has the hem view attached.

You will find a notch in the overlay that basically indicates where it will turn out and what I like to do is just add a needle a centimeter in from the hem because that's up to where we have to sew our view to match like this and by doing this I find it more easy to work with the attached hem view because I can just sew the view to the front right up here then tag back and just jump here basically folding the seam allowances the other direction and start sewing down here and finishing the front edge with the view also once we turn everything over, this will be a nice edge and then this can also be put together very easily this way because you already have access to all the seams and I really like this method and as you can see, the Now I have the same length and I can start sewing them together without leaving everything in place.

I also closed the hem like I was telling you, so I put it in the machine like this and sew up to here until the seam allowance starts, so I left it. Also without any points here and before I turn everything inside out, I also want to cut the seam allowances at a few points. I'll cut this seam allowance here, the border here, we can leave everything else as is and continue here. in the neck area I want to reduce the seam allowance quite drastically as it will just go up and we don't want that here in the corner, I'm also cutting the seam allowance and then I like to just cut the face seam allowance of the inner collar is a little bit smaller than the outer collar, three to five millimeters and with the colored seam allowance prepared like this, as you can see, I cut around the collar area and then tucked it in. the usual seam allowance and then the corners and stuff, we can turn everything inside out, this is what the front and hem seam looks like, so what I like to do for ironing is have the front side facing up for the front and then for the collar I will have the inside collar facing up, so from this corner here to here we are going to iron the gap of the seam towards the view.

I'm going to add top stitches there too to fix the ironing. in place and then for the neck area I turn everything over so the inside color ties in and listen from that inside corner to the other side of the inside corner where the seam gap is showing on the side inland. collar so it changes right here at this point usually with a lapel it's somewhere down here where you know the lapel fold starts since we don't have that it just starts right here at the throat line and now let's flip this over again to that we can iron on the last part now we're going to add top stitches to this so that all of this is fixed in place we can go ahead and match the lines here in the color of the necklines because I'm going to add a top Stitch that will fix both layers in their place, so I'll sew in the ditch.

It's important to match the seams, so I'm putting needles in that seam, so I'll try to be as careful and neat as possible to match them up. Both seams as best as you can. I'll probably also use a single sided foot to have the voluminous collar where all the seam allowance is on the side where I don't have a zipper foot, let's see how that works. it's going well so I'm really glad you can't see it on the side where it's sewn and then you can barely see it on the opposite side you can only see it because I use black thread which obviously you shouldn't just match. your thread with the piece you're making, except if you want to do contrast stitching, then obviously that's fine.

Now I'll also add the top stitch. I think I'm just going to go from the hem around the edges here and just finish it. outside of the Corpus I guess then we only have to make the sleeves and we can continue with the lining and therefore the opening that I will show you obviously apart from that the finish of the coat is exactly the same as for any other coat, honestly. I won't show you that, like I said, I'll link to videos when the time comes, so for Our Sleeve we have a dividing seam here that goes around the back notch of the sleeve and that's the first seam that we're going to close since then . the side seam of our coat is still open, we are also going to leave the side seam of our sleeves open, they have a side seam, classic two-part sleeves have no side seam, they are seamless and placed towards the front.

I don't really like this because I don't see my advantages in that instead of having a side seam as I really recommend leaving the side seams open in all my videos until the sleeve sits at the shoulder seam as it is much more easy. and for the sleeve divider seam I'm also going to sew the seam allowance on the back sleeve to go with the top seam theme basically I've continued like this and let's close this now we can put our sleeves and I. I just put my armhole right there and now I just have to find the right side for the seam here to mark the back piece and then I'm just going to pin them together and sew the sleeve to the outside armhole so that now the sleeve is on Instead, I'm going to grab the head batting of the sleeve, which is this piece here.

I have a pattern piece for that, so you can customize the sleeve head batting to the Our Sleeve shape we are using. I just use a pre- What you do with that is put it on the sleeve, pin it in place and just sew it onto the sleeve head at the seam allowance. Super, super easy, this just prevents any awkward transitions from shoulder pad to sleeve, as seen. better if there's a little more structure there otherwise it might be like the sleeve just has an indent there which wouldn't be as nice so here's what you do to avoid that and now we're going to iron the seam allowance. up our sleeve here at the sharp bend.

I'm using my handy Taylor hem as it has a curve and is easier rather than ironing. I'm going to vaporize it like this and now it looks really good and we can add. On the shoulder pad that looks like this, there's a notch here to mark the shoulder point and now I'm placing it right above the shoulder seam with about 1.5 centimeters towards the sleeve so that we have this curve here and to put. the shoulder pad in the sleeve seam. I'm just making sure that all the seam allowances are facing the sleeve and guide it with one hand on the inside and the other hand here to pin down, making sure that this line here is straight and Now, if I turn this around and take it out , I can add pins right here, like the seam allowance.

I can pin it to the shoulder pad so I can sew because I will be sewing the shoulder pad into the sleeve head seam allowance. You can also just pin it in place at three points here, here and here, and then it should also be fine and then you also want to pin it in place here at the shoulder seam, but now I can just sew in the seam allowance and fix the shoulder pad in place and now once we turn it right side out this should look pretty good now we can go ahead and close the side seam we already did the other sleeve and I like to start from the hem towards the sleeve just because then the seam The allowance here on the sleeve faces in the correct direction, which is towards the sleeve, close this up to the hem of the sleeve.

I'm going to iron the side seam open so it's less bulky and now it's time to turn it inside out. All right side out and we can try it on for the first time as the side seams are now closed. Look, really cool. I already love it. I forgot to keep an eye on the sleeve hems, so I quickly did that too. I simply closed the side seam of the sleeve hem, ironed it open, and then simply put it on the sleeves. I match all the seams, all the notches and then I just sew them together and iron the seam gap to the inside and just pin it in place with some needles because we need it in just a second when we finish the lining so before moving on to the lining and opening here, I'm going to prepare the hem by ironing the seam allowances. five centimeters above, that is, four centimeters of hemp on the face and one centimeter of seam allowance and here in the slit we are going to have to make a mitered corner, we already have the slit ironed to the wrong side and now we are just going to make the The same for the hem from the hem fold line I am going to add a notch to four centimeters.

I'm also going to add from the fault line here four centimeters away another mark once we put the right sides together diagonally. Match these twopoints on the seam line, we're going to put a needle in and I'm going to start sewing a centimeter measured in, so right here and just sew from here to here, this is how it looks like we can Go ahead and cut off the seam allowance, so remove this whole triangle. If we take out the right sides, you have this mitered corner that we're going to iron and now we have like the seam allowance is still, you know, moving freely to join. the lining over this and everything else, the hem is prepared now for this side as well, the side that is on top of that, we have this edge here that will end with the opening, so what are we going to do for that? be very careful with the lengths of the two back pieces and then fold the hem up and check to see if they match and then it should be right at the hem notch which is also here.

I just want to fold it right sides over and close this edge here just up to a centimeter before the edge, since that's the seam allowance, now we can turn these red sides over now, hopefully they should match up here once everything is done, let's continue ironing the rest of the hem, so I was just editing and I just didn't like the part where I showed you the slits, so I thought the best thing to do was redo it now because I already have my code completely finished. Obviously I can't show you the piece, but I made This is a little example piece where I'll show you step by step how to make a line cut, so let's go.

I started with a bunch of marks that this paper needs, so I invite you to copy them. I'll leave them in my sewing instructions as well and I'm starting now with where we left off, so I already have the bare fabric already prepared and sewn, as well as the center back of my lining and I have this point right here, right where I stop sewing where the slit starts, you need to cut the seam allowance there to iron the seam allowance open like you see I do here, once you remove the lining with the sliding part facing it, you reveal another corner that you need to cut because these two diagonals The seams of the lining will also gather a little and are the same length, so the only thing you need to keep in mind is to pin the correct corners, so it can be very helpful to simply mark the seam line on all the parts. so you know where all the corners are going to meet because for this it's like if Audi goes to India and stuff like that, we're going to iron the diagonal seam that we just sewed open as well to prevent it from getting bunched up and just do it.

Alright, there's also another corner we need to cut. Okay, now that everything is pressed, we're going to copy the exact same diagonal seam from the lining on our outer piece because that needs to come together as well and the same thing here. It's very helpful if you mark the seam lines differently than the lining, although we're not going to iron this open, we're just going to leave it as is and now it's time to put both layers together once both pieces are laid on top. From each other we can peel off the side with the eye and attach it to the outer fabric.

Now it gets a little tricky because we need to match the corners right there, so there are two seam lines that stop and we need to match them. the lining and on the outer piece and on top of that we have the hem face that's already sewn up, so we're removing the seam allowance from the hem face and then we're pinning the lining right next to it so we're not sewing. the siding, but stopping right before, if you remember, we did it with the front siding as well, it looked exactly the same. Now let's just match up all of these seam lines here from the lining and the outer fabric and we can sew from the hem to the end. to the end of the diagonal seams now one side is done, let's peel this to the side to iron everything which is super important, especially with the slots, since you have to work very, very detailed and we can take out the edge that I had to spin. the wrong sides facing out so we can sew this well when ironing the side here that we just sewed.

I like to iron the seam channel towards the lining and then we can put the right sides on the other side that is still open along with the outside. fabric that is also still raw and also matches all the corners again. It's very helpful to have the seam line and go all the way to where we start the miter corner, the seam allowance should still be intact so you have easy access to that. point right there and then we can sew from the tip of the slit towards the mitered corner to iron that side, we just need to peel off the part of the slit that is on top and we can easily iron the lining by turning the piece right side up. facing up or out facing up we are going to add a diagonal seam to strengthen everything, since the slit is only sewn on specific quarters which are quite weak, we are going to add a reinforcing seam at a 45 degree angle just like the seam on the inside, so our goal is to just sew in the seam left on the inside if it's not exactly the seam ditch on the inside, oh well, whatever, it doesn't really matter, just having a strengthening seam is what further.

The important thing here and as you can see, turning it over, I practically sewed in the ditch, which made me very happy. Why didn't I do that for my actual coat? The last step is to finish the lining at the hem, which is done exactly. As with all other liners, I like this method the best. You have this kind of diagonal way of sewing the lining at the hem that way, you have a sharp edge and you continue to transition into that motion fold that you want for your lining. when you pull out the edge here, you can see that it has this sharp edge on one side and then the fold motion on the other, pretty much copying the same method on the other side.

It's quite difficult to show you with this little piece of lining, but I tried it though, obviously if you're making a full cape, the lining continues forward, but I wanted to show you anyway that you obviously need to finish the hem. I'm giving everything a quick iron and the slit is completely done if you're new. to the slits don't worry I had to do it a few times to get the hang of it practice makes perfect and I hope I was able to help you on that path and now let's get back to the actual video so now we can go ahead and just put the whole liner on our part.

I've done this many times so I'll come back once the lining is in place, like I said the links are below for resources on how to add lining to your jacket. I have a whole video on my code Anna, where I put the lining in there, as well as with the pieces that you also sew on the inside and things like that with how you finish the sleeve hem, how you put it on, how you turn the whole thing inside out. right side out through the sleeve. opening and so on, all that by the way, if you're interested, I have a booklet where I also share all the tips and tricks that you see me use physically in written form, so if you're interested in that, I will. also link it below, alright guys, I'm just finishing up the jacket by putting in the buttonholes and sewing on the buttons, which was harder than I expected because the fabric was so thick I had a really hard time getting it under the presser foot. for my machine, but I still managed it now I just have to sew on the buttons, which I'll do by hand because there's no way I can fit all of that under my presser foot, but that's okay.

I hope you enjoyed this video. If so, please like it and if you haven't already, subscribe to my channel. I'm on my way to 100K, which is my goal by the end of 2022. It would be amazing if you could support my channel and keep the videos. like this one coming just by subscribing and hitting the bell below and also like the video that would help me a lot to find all the links that I mentioned throughout the video in the description below or in the eye up here. Check out my social media on Instagram, for example, I'm doing a lot of tips and tricks on my projects that I upload every Sunday, so if you want to find little tips and tricks on the go, you can check out my Instagram. or my Pinterest doing the same thing there or my YouTube shorts everywhere basically the pattern will be linked below.

It's in my Etsy store. You can see it there. I hope you enjoyed this video. Thank you very much for watching. See you next Sunday, goodbye foreign guys.