How To Install a Holley Super Sniper EFI

greetings viewers here on today's episode of car guy let's

install

the

holley

super

sniper

efi on the fairmont let's get started and i got my

holley

super

sniper

efi from Summit Racing step 1 remove the engine and transmission no it's not necessary I removed the engine and transmission. I removed the engine and transmission because in addition to

install

ing the Holley Super Sniper EFI, I also had some problems with the lifters and had to replace them, but the lifters I had on there required two removals to get the heads to fit. To them, hence the reason why the engine died, but it's all back together, ready to go back in and I have everything set up for the super Sniper EFI wiring, which will start with the wiring diagram and then I'll show you what .

What I'm doing on the car here is the basic wiring setup for this. The Sniper EFI has many capabilities, many programmable inputs and outputs, which will be specific to your application. My installation will only be the minimum to be able to make this work. I'm not going to connect any fuel pump relays or anything like that. I already have it connected in my vehicle. The things I have connected now are power and ground going to the battery. This is extremely important. They mentioned this a lot in the instruction notes, but you have to take the power and ground directly to the battery.

The other thing you will need is an ignition on, in other words when you start the engine you need to have a power source that goes to this that stays hot during starting until the coil connection which will depend on your configuration either Whether or not it has an ignition coil like this or a CD case like the one I have. I'm doing the wiring for the CD box and I'm just going to use this purple wire that's already connected in the vehicle. It needs a tach input which I have ready to connect and this is the tach output on this wiring harness, like I said you can control a lot of different things with this. but the only output I'm worried about on this harness is just this brown wire for the tach output on my - I'll put a link in the description to the full instructions for this so you can go through all of this and figure it out. how to make it work in your application this 7 pin connector is the main harness going into the vehicle so this is the one you need the most this is the one with power and ground the pink one will be the hot ignition and these will be the green one and the purple one here they go to a special connector that just chokes into this purple connector that's going to go to the attack output of my CD case on the back, so this is the main harness, so to speak, and I have this going on through the firewall under the dash, so I'll show you in a second that the 10-pin harness has many of the controllable inputs and outputs, but the only one I'm concerned about is the tachometer output and I'll show you how I'm wiring that inside, but all these other things I'm going to tie up for now because eventually I'd like to set this up so I can have control of the cooling fan, but my cooling fan controls are set up perfectly now and I'm going to leave them alone so I can connect this thing and run something that I forgot to share with you is that I had already run the wire for this display in communication between the ECU on the Sniper EFI and the engine through the In the same location where I ran all the other wires, this also ran through there and There's something else I want to show you with this as well, so in addition to being able to connect the interface that's on the board, they also supplied this cable that has this USB connection and I suspect you can connect it to a laptop, maybe do diagnostics or maybe put other melodies on it.

I'm really not sure, but I know this can be connected to the same terminal that goes to the ECU. on top of the engine, right, on the other side of the firewall, under me. I have the main power and ground that are here. I have the pink power switch, ignition hot source or hot crank, this is the purple wire. It will be the input from the tachometer to the computer and this brown wire will be the output from the tachometer to my - so I need to connect all of these to what I have in the vehicle.

I modified the harness that came with an EFI super sniper as stated, I already have a fuel pump relay wired up just how I like it. I'll leave it as is, but the unit still needs to be powered through the same harness and they have this 30 amp inline fuse that I'm going to use the wires that I'll show you in a moment. These are the power and ground going back to the battery, which I'm going to connect and I'm going to connect the power through this fuse right here so We'll check this in case there's any problem and we'll blow this fuse.

These cables run behind the back seat to allow me to show you. It's here on the floor. I have the power and ground cables that I am going to run. over the drive hump there I also have a purple wire for the tack input and the brown wire for the tack output ready to go through here also looks like a mess right now wiring. I wait until the end to clean everything up once I have the length and everything right, in fact you may be able to see down here what I did with the old harness so that's what I intend to do, unfortunately I can't roll this in this harness, but okay, I don't.

Would you mind having a separate fuel injection harness for this under the dash. Here I have this fuse that already connects to my ignition system and it's hot on, so what I did was I kind of piggybacked it. I say not to do things like this, but this is just the hot ignition source, so I'm not that worried, but you'll see from this connector that it's fused. I put a 75mm fuse in this one, this will be the power going into the hot ignition. A coolant temperature gauge was already working in the car and it was connected to this part of the intake, which is the junction that goes between them.

I still want the coolant temperature to be recorded on the dash, so I still want to have my temperature. meter, so what I did was buy a new thermostat housing and install my old temperature gauge, central unit here on this side of the thermostat, so what if I don't see the temperature until my thermostat starts to open, which Which doesn't matter, I'll know if my thermostats open and close the way it's set, but the computer needs the engine temperature all the time, so it's more important that the computer get its temperature from here, so I just I move my gauge up here on that side of the thermostat, in addition to knowing the coolant temperature, the all important wideband O2 sensor is extremely important in all of this because that's basically when it's a closed loop that will allow the computer to learn and calibrate a fuel mixture. based on Marti running a wideband on this to have my air fuel gauge on the dash, which I have done to future proof it, everything is under here, right here is another plug that I can screw the fuel sensor into O2 to have was already soldered on a plug in my exhaust so I could do it.

However, Holley provides this as an alternative to doing any welding on your exhaust. You can't get a plug for the O2 sensor, drill it and weld it in if not. able to do that, but not necessary, all you need is to drill a hole in the exhaust. I don't know, maybe like a three-quarter size. In the instructions it says exactly what size hole to drill, so you can install this. and clip it to the pipe and this should work now. An important note about this is that it needs to be placed at the top of the pipe, in other words you can't put it at the bottom this way because moisture and other things will build up. there so it has to be at number one high and also the closer to the engine the better because this works when it's hot the quicker you can warm up the better and get into closed circuit much quicker so try to get closer. the engine and keep it away from moisture by mounting it on top, normally you would have this fuel pump relay and everything connected inside your main harness.

I cut mine off and I'm sure Holly wasn't happy about it. I also removed the Yellow Coil Negative Wire from that harness because I'm not using it in my application. Remember when I said you should connect it directly to the battery and not to another power junction? This is the main power junction for the car as I built it. So that's the main battery cable that comes in and that's also the alternator power that comes in and it also powers the fuse boxes and everything I have in it. This is like a raging river as far as electricity is concerned, the battery is like a nice serene calm lake and the computer inside the EFI sniper and you want to live in that nice serene calm lake when you get your power, you don't want to get stuck in the middle of the raging river, so avoid connecting to something like this, connect directly. to the drums and we become spectators.

I have installed the engine and transmission so that everything is in its proper place so I know where my cables are going to run. I had to modify the coolant temperature sensor to measure the wiring for that. Make that a little longer to accommodate the new location I showed you before. Now I'm going to remove the engine pull plate and install the super sniper in the intake with its new gasket so we know where everything is going to be and I'll be able to wire everything up, clean everything up and make everything pretty before it's done.

Very good, I encourage you to make this go without incident. I don't have to do anything except, unfortunately, say goodbye to my carburetor gasket, goodbye carburetor. It's like the last remnant, no, the carburetor. I loved my carburetor. I really made time to move on. Here is the gasket that came in the kit. It looks symmetrical, so I don't think it will be difficult. Yes, it just falls right into the back of a unit. On the front side of the unit, you can get the fuel in here either way since I'm running forced induction. I can't use the internal fuel pressure regulator on this.

I have to lock it, so I'm going to take this port and move it. in front on both sides oh my god this is a bad day so I need to order something like right now it's - six not - eight and I need - eight well at least I can change it. I was just under the impression that these were eight props here. I was so wrong, you know, these are not on, they are very tight, so if you have one of these, I would check these fittings and make sure they are secure before you turn it on and you really should check the fuel pressure right away or just check if the system holds pressure just before you try to start it that way you don't risk spraying fuel everywhere you don't feel like they need much. of torque there is an o-ring there, I just think it needs to be compressed a little well.

I had one of those accessories and the part number for this is in the instructions for my horsepower rating I should use: six for my fuel system that I already ran - eight I'm not going back so it's just as easy to just change it. It's just as easy to change these fittings here, which are 9/16 2 - 8, so 9/16, so call the part number again. the instructions I just asked for overnight, we can still fix a bunch of other things, although it's all back here, so my fuel inputs and outputs will be here in my unboxing video. I showed this threaded rod for the carburetor. at least online it wasn't the right size and I had to get another one so keep in mind this is a smaller one.

I don't know the size off the top of my head, I just looked at it additionally in that unboxing video I showed. The leak I was using for my carburetor will never work on this and there is just no room so what I did was make extensions to extend this like this which gives me a lot of clearance. You should be fine with that, there is a bracket available that I found and I only found one specifically for the EFI sniper. I'll put a link to that in a description, but it's like $75. I got some angled stock.

I went to the hardware store and made my own bracket, so if it works between that and the fasteners that I bought, which were very good fasteners, I think I got about 15 dollars, these are my freshly painted bracket extensions, like I said, everything, check out that unboxing video. because I put in there the angle that I use and everything else, but I'm going to use them basically to extend the throttle linkage, so basically I just have a set of bolts, nuts and bolts, the throttle linkage moves very well, so know your reference with this. It's not going anywhere it's tough I'm not going to swing back because this makes me feel good, it feels better than ever, except a few things have happened since I last saw you, mainly I fixed the throttle cable, it What happened is the end.

On the inside of the accelerator pedal, the accelerator puddle broke and the cable just went through, so I fixed it with a spot solder. I'm going toshow a photo of that right now. These cheap throttle cables, well they are that cheap, but the throttle works. Well, now I've verified that he has a full range of motion, which is important. You want to make sure it is with the throttle wide open. It's actually wide open throttle and you want to make sure the throttle can be closed. I decided not to run. a throttle return spring because I honestly don't think I need it.

I think the unit return springs seemed to work fine. However, I found that if you tighten the bras too much and I don't say it right, maybe I did. overtighten them, but if you really tighten these fasteners, it actually makes that grinding noise during throttle operation even louder and I suspect what that's doing is warping the housing a little bit enough to wear out, the shaft of the throttle is getting squeaky, so keep in mind that if you really tighten that into the manifold, which isn't really necessary, you might know it will make noise or wear out.

I don't know, I just noticed it in my mind, so I'll pass on it. I also put the A/C compressor in here because I forgot about my A/C line which ran very close to the throttle linkage and it's closer than close to the throttle linkage but it clears everything it clears nothing hits anything it's causing any problems there, so I'm glad to see that I also installed the belts and have an idea of ​​where the wires and other things are routed. Here in the engine bay, which is what I'm going to get into next, I also installed the O2 sensor in my exhaust and I can show you that right now, here are the new guys that I said earlier.

I've welded a plug on this before so I anticipated this day but now I have two sensors this one is pre cat and this one is post cat that's a joke because I'm not using a catalytic converter on that but this one on the back here is for me meter the one on the front here is for the fuel injection system. I also had this fuel supply line come in. I chose to use only ninety degrees to enter here. It's probably a flange down and then the other fuel line will go in like this. once you get this new fitting fitted and it will go to the fuel pressure regulator, your fuel pressure regulator is on the return side so it is after the fuel passes through the fuel injection unit where you want to place your fuel pressure regulator if you don't have a boost app like me don't worry you have a fuel pressure regulator but built into the unit plug it all in here and don't worry but on boots and apps you need a boost regulated fuel. pressure regulator I will be installing and that is why I am using an external regulator instead of using the one on a unit.

Now my focus will be on sorting out the engine bay, wiring connections and that sort of thing. Once that's done, I'll do what I can to finish the fuel system and then we'll get in the car and complete those electrical connections there, so I'll spend some time trying to sort out the cables and vacuum. lines and order things and connect them. I don't allow lis to plug anything in while I set things up so I can plug them in and out easily, not into the harness, of which I'm only using one wire for now, which is the tach output.

I'm going to route everything back up here under the guise that you know it's all a harness and it's worth more than just this wire, but on these wires that are sticking out at the ends I'm going to cover them with shrink tubing and a seal. Stand them up so they can't come into contact with any metal and short out anything and to start I'm going to cut them all the same length so it looks like it's all in one harness instead of just all of this down one wire. Dramatic revelation. from the capped ends of the wires watch your wires magically disappear into the tube where did they go they're all gone it's just a black thing now today in the tubes from eric the car guy these are intake vacuum sources in the back, you have a small one and a large one, the large one goes to my vacuum supply basically for the HVAC system.

I have a vacuum tank sequestered under the fender here that's actually going to work because you may not always have a vacuum. I need to do things, please. I admire the finished installation of my wiring. I'm very proud of it. This is the boost regulated fuel pressure regulator that I got from Airmotive and that I will be using in this application. It is good for both carburetors and fuel injection. That's the reason I bought it. all you have to do is change the spring inside here. I have videos about mishaps with that side. I went to the hardware store and bought some of these fittings and basically built a way to read the gauge.

I can adjust the Pressure here and I could see the pressure that I'm getting here on the gauge. I made a video on these fuel pressure gauges that I will link to in the description that details these, but this is a basic setup. which I'm about to reinstall here the fittings that I use to accomplish that and my mounting location is right down here, it doesn't matter if you're running a separate fuel pressure regulator or using the regulator on the Sniper EFI, both. they are on the return side so if you are running an external regulator the return goes to the fuel pressure regulator and if you are running the internal regulator inside the Sniper EFI which is the return side of your system the line that goes to the inlet for the boost regulated fuel pressure regulator it should go above the carburetor if you only need to record boost you don't need to record intake vacuum I took the opportunity to install the ignition wires - the distributor I just put the cap and the cables In the place where I'm going to connect the fuel lines, I have my piece, so I'll be able to connect my fuel lines, finish that and then I'm going to install the downpipe for the exhaust there and the rest of the exhaust and then we can get it out of the elevator and take care of everything inside and finish the wiring.

He's starting to feel very old. The air and fuel sensor and this maybe one of these. Yeah, let's do one of those now that everything is connected. on the hood and the exhaust is connected, very excited about that. I'm going to go and connect those cables that I showed you at the beginning, so I'm running ground from the battery. I'm running a tach signal from the CD case in the back here and then I'm taking the tach out of the CD case up to the dash and I think there's one more that, oh, the ignition's hot, so the ignition bypass in other words is also what you need to connect so really that's the minimum you need to run this and then there are all the other components you can optionally connect such as nitrous on some systems and also the operation of the cooling fan and the shutdown relay, oh that's covered in the instructions linked in the description here.

A pro tip when running cables. I usually lay them out a little longer and put everything in place first and then cut them to fit, for example. Basically I'm going to make this purple wire replace this yellow wire, so I have it cut long, so all I have to do is match it to where I want it to be and I can cut it and I'll have the perfect length wire, something that you might consider and I have learned this. through difficult experiences where you don't want things to be permanent until you're sure it works, so I just went in and twisted some wires and tied some other wires together so everything was connected, but I'm going to verify that everything works before that I finally compromised and plugged everything in and hid everything in the dash and these are the ones you'll find like the professional battery cables from the hardware store they are the way to go for things like these Professional Battery Cables I have other places to put things like the computer power into a fuse I pulled out of the 30 amp harness, so whatever goes in there will fuse.

I could get a little fancy with this and maybe plug it in there, I thought. about that, but not so close now. I'm going to put this oil in here, which takes a minute because it's running like honey right now and then I'm going to prime the oil system and prime it like I said, I already had the engine. As an aside I replaced some lifters so I want to make sure there's oil all over the engine then we'll do a fuel system pressure test or pressure check so I'll turn up the system pressure and check for leaks and then we'll go look. at startup and do the setup for this engine and we'll see if it starts at the right time to prelube all that's needed on a Ford is a quarter inch socket and I have it glued to the extension so we don't lose it now If we want to get really complicated, turn on the ignition, look at the oil pressure gauge to make sure we have pressure.

Here we go as if the engines are running, but it's not running and, by the way, the Ford is backwards. rotation, so reverse your drill when you do this now that the oil is primed in the engine. I'm going to turn on the fuel pump and check all the parts I just installed in the fuel system for leaks. So far, so good. I will do that. Turn the fuel pump on again and dial the fuel pressure where I want it, which will be 58 psi. Well, the fuel pump is very happy with this. The 58 fuel pump sounds a little different.

Now he's just going to cycle it to see if it works. appears again, yes I checked the fuel system for leaks. I checked the car and everything I've done so far looks good, now it's time to set up the sniper EFI. This is described in the instructions in the PDF that is linked in a description, but now I'm going to go over the basic setup from what I remember from reading the instructions to turn the ignition on, this is good, it's really good that it shows this key first The first thing we are going to do is select our unit, which is the 4150 super sniper injector, the next number of cylinders, 8 engine displacements is 363, target idle speed.

I'm going to go with a 750, I think. It's a good idle. Am I going to use a street camera or not really. I'm going to use an original light. Look at your camps. It has to do with vacuum, like the amount of vacuum your engine produces. I know my engine could produce approx. you know, 1820 inches of vacuum, which is considered soft according to this setup, so that's my camera. I have a turbo. I have a CD case. This is eating up the ignition type system, so if you connected it to the negative coil once again, this is described in the instructions point to air fuel with zero boost, so this is zero boost.

I'm pretty happy with 12-2 so I'm going to stick with that, so for 7 psi I want to richen it up as it gets more boost, just watch. how far does it go 11 7 that's for sure 21 psi I'll never get there Most likely it's here so 11 7 it seems reasonable to me to press the start button turn up the ECU calibration so start talking to the ECU right now cycle the ignition to complete the operation, so turn it off. I just heard it does something under the hood, in theory we should be able to start it now. Okay, I got the key and very quickly I'm going to do a check.

Of the things they check, I'm going to look for vital signs, yeah, let's get to that, okay, so my rpm signal should say "stop" like that until it starts cranking, so that's what you want to see so I know that It's connected to the ignition system so it's an open loop learning state, it's not learning but actually when I started it should be doing something else but I shouldn't be able to see a load, this all here goes hmm, maybe it's a synchronization problem. I'm looking at an RPM. signal and such so you should be seeing the coolant temp sensor, also the battery is low, that's a timing issue, try this again.

I think I have the timing ahead 180 degrees to detect any leaks. Check Tommy I initially set the time to 16 degrees, I'll worry fine. -tuning later, well, I have another tip for you. I just finished connecting all the wires from the bulkhead leading to the car and I'm about to wrap the conduit, but before I do that I wanted to show you something when I connected all these wires for this group of wires that I'm crimping and I like crimp connections , especially those that have the shrink tube around the outside. I'll link it in the description so you can check it out for yourself, but the tip I'm trying to get across here is that when you make these connections, stagger them, don't put them all in one place that way you won't have a pregnant spot in the harness, so you'll stagger them and that's how it will be.

We'll spread that volume over a larger area and here's the result of staggering those connections, with no bulky spots in the conduit or harness. I think it looks pretty good, so here's the engine bayfinished and I'm so in love I really like this and I love the throttle response I'm hearing so far. I can't wait to get it out and drive it. I'm also looking forward to when I install the Hyper Spark system and have timing control as well as all these other controls. That will be great, I'm looking forward to it and yes, I will make a video, this is where I chose to mount my display.

I have these magnets that I use for my phone, so I made this holder here and I can stick it on. I put it there and put it in the glove compartment when I'm not using it. I notice that the air and fuel readings here are different than the air and fuel readings on my gauge here and I'm wondering if that's because the sniper EFI is connected to my battery and this is connected to my distribution of power, so I don't know if there is enough voltage drop to change the readings, but I suppose it is possible, but this is where things end and this is where I get to the installation of my stylus. the Holley super sniper EFI I hope the information in this video has helped you.

I have given you some advice. I have given you some tricks. If you're installing one of these or considering purchasing one, you'll have an idea of ​​what you're in for. For now I didn't go over installing that fuel pump and all that, but if you can get this far, I think getting this far is like another power connection and if you have things you need to connect, Holly was a little Butthurt when I told her that I cut that part off the harness, but as you can see, it powers on and works fine, so you know the bare minimum you need to get the Holly Super Sniper EFI working personally.

I like the fact. It starts very well. I also like the throttle response and let's face it, it's much better than my carburetor for a streetcar, that's without a doubt, there I said it. I will put links in the description to the PDF of the instructions and more. with additional videos and information, if you have questions about any of these things, I will also put a link in the description to stream on the upload communicator, which is where I ask you to go if you have questions about cars, don't forget to like the comment. subscribe do those kinds of things that help you make a living, really appreciate that you're safe, have fun, stay dirty, I'll see you next time, thanks for watching.