I made a massive Space Marine from a block of clay

Hello friends, my name is Adam and I like to make small, nerdy things, but sometimes I wish these small, nerdy things were a little bigger. Of course, you could send something already

made

straight to my door, but why would I spend almost 20 Great British? dollar installments to buy it when I can spend over 10 times that amount on materials and about 2 weeks of my life to make a slightly inferior version of mine. Now I think that the best copycat creations are less functional and more fragile, so Of course, I'll be making my huge Space Marine out of

clay

, which means I need to give him an all-aluminum armor skeleton, so once I've marked where they'll be his bones and joints, I will cut some pieces of wire that can be bent to shape his torso and legs, however, this beefy

space

boy is going to be quite heavy, so he will need some impressively thick bones to match his impressively frame. thick.

This wire requires a little more work to bend and shape, but it should be much less likely to bend under the weight of all that

clay

, which means that after 4 40 hours of sculpting, there will hopefully be a slightly lower chance about my beefy

space

boy breaking his bones; otherwise, now that your Hardy aluminum bottom is built, I'll do it. bulge the chest with some aluminum foil before mounting it on a

block

of wood, unlike the cheap and cheerful plastic Space Marine my stair will be stuck in a single pose meaning I need to find a suitably heroic position which I finally established. in a Captain Morgan pose since it's very heroic and then vacillated between which arm is up and which is down before finally deciding that he'll be holding a Bolter in his right and a chain sword in his left.

I then called up my reference photo of the warp and

made

sure my proportions were at least accurate so far before I started building the initial layers. Each Space Marine wears a tight-fitting black suit beneath their armor made of hearty noodles wrapped lovingly around their torso; however, most of this will be hidden by future armor plates to that end, once I build Bob's underlying noodle suit I will smooth it all out and cut and carve the noodles onto his knees, hips and torso leaving everything the rest smooth, since those will be the only parts that will be visible in a combination. of flat knives and soft clay shapers will create the necessary noodle pieces.

And once it's done, a healthy, strong dose of rubbing alcohol will make sure everything is nice and smooth, then I'll pop it in the oven to bake it so it doesn't crush my wormy Under Armor. Now I build the rest of the body normally in the far future of the 41st Millennium, they all seem to be standing on tactical rocks but I have something better planned, however at the moment I need something for Bob to rest his left foot on so I will attach a small

block

to the big block and I will start building your boots with a base layer of the finished boots.

I can add the upper leg plates, which I will do by rolling a thick sheet of clay through my old machine and cutting. If you fit your thigh sizes to this scale, there is plenty of opportunity to increase the amount of visible detail since the model is significantly larger, but I wanted to stick to the original design, so I'll keep the grebles and such to a minimum. Of course, this is based entirely on artistic integrity and respect for the work of the original sculptors and not because I'm lazy and wouldn't want to add all sorts of extra work for myself, otherwise once the armor has become to bake, I will fall apart. my sanding sticks and make sure I have a nice smooth surface.

This is a very recurring theme here, even if I don't show it, but basically every time I add another layer of armor plates, I bake and sand them. It's nice and flat now with my boots in place and my surface as smooth as possible. I can start building the next layer of armor. When I started the sculpture, I really wasn't sure how much work it would require. be involved, but other than it taking an extra week to put together the actual process was pretty easy since a Space Marine's armor is just plates on plates on plates, if you're careful and at least think a little ahead you can bake every section safely. between the parts without fear of messing something up later, what makes it even easier is that each section of the body is separated by a bare black space under the armor, meaning you never have to worry about mixing sections now in the future.

Regarding my sculpture. I added the oversized ankle gonads. I can give Bob a much-needed armored banana hammock before I start work on building his big Space Marine boots. This was probably the trickiest part to make, but I ended up using my clay as a transfer, so I could make a plastic template that I can then use to make two identical boot plates with the knee-high boots in place. I can refine the shape while on the model and then mark the space for future knee nuts before baking and sanding them. As always, once it's nice and smooth, I can add those aforementioned knee pads and make sure they're nice and round, with that the lower half of the body is almost done so I can get to work on slimming down his torso.

I'll start by adding some initial plates for the abdomen and back before adding a substantial amount of clay on top to strengthen the chest, shoulders and upper back. I want to build this torso in its entirety before adding the arms, so I'm going to take a page. Take out the thumbnails and leave the Torso size slightly bleed which should make it easier to add some bare Under Armor. Then, using my larger little cookie cutter, I'll cut a big hole in the top of his torso and fluff it out before adding. another thin layer of clay on top to add that final layer of armor for the upper body.

His back is a little thicker to allow for a Space Marine backpack, so I'll thicken it with a thick sheet of clay cut to size and mixed before returning. to the top hole in his torso and adding an oversized gorette which I believe is called a zucchini in America, some final strips of clay pricked with the flat of a scalpel blade will be the random rear GBL and I can add his tiny backpack which eventually it will hold your large portable generator, otherwise I can give you a nice thick belt around your waist and a neat little

marine

buckle finally, with a belt in place I can add the butt flaps and skirt plates, Those are the final pieces for his torso, which means the only thing left to do, aside from everything else, is add his arms, similar to how his legs are mostly black noodles etched into armor plates, like this. which I'll start by covering the wire and clay and cutting lots of little noodles into the joints then once.

It's already baked. I can add more armor plates and cut them into the correct shape as well. I'll make some small shoulder plates to cover with oversized plates later and then I can cover his elbows with some nice thick elbow pads, talking about their thickness. The boots are a little thin so I will take them off the block and add some thick sheets of clay to the bottom of his boots and once I have them cut to size and baked I can cut and sand them until Bob's boots have a nice appearance. High quality heretical footsteps finally for one last body job.

I thought his torso was a little bare, so I decided to add the Emperor's Aquila to that big blank space on his chest. Also, it's important to remember that in the 41st Millennium even the good guys are bad, so instead of the Emperor's Double-Headed Eagle I'm going to put a skull in the middle which, according to Google, makes it an imperialis. They're the bad guys, regardless of that little out-of-the-way nomenclature that Bob's body is built on. as best as I can, so it's time to make a head, of course since this is a Space Marine, why would I make a head when I can make a helmet?

I'll start with an aluminum ball covered in clay and baked to give me a nice firm surface to work on. I will then cover this with a thin sheet of clay and flatten it before cutting out the section for the faceplate. I'll add a little clay on top so I can build. the mouth and nose, grilling and adding some eyes before spending a frustrating amount of time smoothing out the surface so I could cut out the chin and make some slanted breathing slits in the front. I'll add some blocky bits to the sides and then shave them off. small metal ears before adding the Space Marine mohawk to the top and back of the head with a band around the bottom.

Some final gribblies around the sides of the faceplate will give me a place to put a couple of tubes and I can bake the head and glue it on. Place it on an extra long neck noodle which I will then cut more of those little black noodles under the arour. Once it's baked, I can cut out the neck and squash it into the upper torso hole that I've filled with some fresh clay, leaving the neck behind and the head free to be removed for painting. I'll add a little detail inside the throat, but that's the finished sage helmet, so it's time to make some hilariously oversized shoulder pads.

These should be relatively thin and evenly curved, so I'm going to smooth out some aluminum foil and round the surface to have a shape on which I can build my Space Marine shoulder pads. I bake the shoulder pads once to cure the top clay and then fill the inside with some super sculpting so it's got less Flex, so I can get out my sandpaper and make some sweet music. The work carefully wrapped around the edge and smoothed down the side will give me a clean surface in which I can cut the little grooves and then go back to the sandpaper to do everything.

The surfaces are nice, flat and smooth before cutting some long thin strips of GL clay to wrap around the edge of the shoulder pad to make the trim. Then I'll repeat these steps again to make the other pad and it's time to make your backpack. I'll start with an extra thick slab of gray clay that my camera has decided is impossible to focus on, then cut all four sides into a square shape, then taper the bottom half down and cut the size into a flat bottom before baking it again and covering it with a very thin sheet which I will cut slightly undersize, then it's just a case of cutting some vents in the bottom section before building up the round looking parts by layering a circle and some other circular parts which you then get. covered with another thicker circle which is then rounded and smoothed, then small circles are cut out before even the smaller circles fill the empty space, a couple more circles will be glued to the side and I can place a large old cylinder on top and mingle. position it so that it sticks out slightly, this will give me some space to glue a couple of small pieces of wire on which I will use to glue some small circles followed by flattened balls, this all blends together and I will cover another sheet with Cut a circle on the top and blend that to create a little more of the shape I want before adding some circles to my balls and carving some grids into them.

Finally, WRA WRA the grills in a few more circles and I'll add a bunch of g along the blanks and put some pre-baked side slits on the bottom of the backpack, otherwise we're done here so it's time to make some weapons and hands. I suppose I will start with the left hand which will hold a chained sword and to make the blade of my chained sword I have cut a thin strip of clay in which I can cut some spaces of the same size. Then I'll work back and forth with the clay shapers to smooth the tips into teeth.

Bake it so you can peel it and sand the sides with a rounded file until the teeth point toward the center. I'll then even out the blade between a sheet of clay and cut off the excess leaving the teeth exposed, although this is more of a hot dog than a sandwich so I guess let me know in the comments below if you think a hot dog is a sandwich ; otherwise I'll cut a hole in the bottom of the hot dog sword so I can attach a piece of wire. which I will wrap in clay to make my handle, which I will then cover with semi-random gbi to make the hand itself.

I will grind a clay mitt from the clay handle and wrap it until it has a good grip before carving the fingers and adding the thumb. I will then wrap the wrist and palm in lots of noodles underneath before building a protection with clay-wrapped stirring sticks, finally a small gray donutIt can be squished onto the flat surface of the doll by wrapping the knob of Bob's arm and some plastic wrap. I can then press this clay donut onto the exposed arm bone and place my hand in place without worrying about the clay and the ear. This way I can remove it and paint it in my free time to make Bob's Bolter.

I've printed out a small Bolter template that I'll use to cut a relatively thick slab of clay into the proper shape before baking and sanding it smooth. Then I'll drill a small hole to run a wire. handle that will be wrapped in clay to become the handle. I'll then press the Bolter into a thin sheet of clay and cut it to be flush with the top in front of the gun before carving away bits and pieces until I have a suitably attractive looking Bolter Profile. I've wrapped some dowel and some clay to make the barrel and made a curved magazine that can be added to the bottom before adding a couple more ODS and ends to finish the body by hand.

It can be held the same way I did with the sword, except the index finger will extend over the trigger, which I'll forget to add, so you'll have to use your imagination, at least now I remember the trigger guard, all good. The bolters need a little embellishment, so I made another flying skull, but this time it's facing forward so Bob knows which direction the bullets are going when he pulls the trigger. However, at this point I was good and done making wings, so I opted to add some. Banner on the other side, otherwise that's the finishing touch for the firearm and I can stick it on Bob's other arm.

I want to be able to remove the hands to paint the weapons, but I don't want there to be a gap, so I'm going to build up the forearm a little bit and make the connections as smooth as possible between the wrist and the arm knob. I can cover everything with greeblies to hide any imperfections and finally fix the backpack. I'm going to do some fan service for the miniature builders and add a magnet so I can add and remove the backpack whenever I want. With that, Bob is completely finished and I. You can fully assemble this beautiful space boy of course, although he looks pretty good, he may look too good, so I'm going to start cutting in the 41st Millennium, there's only war, so why all these Space Marines do they look so damned? pristine I like my boys to look like they've been to hell and well, they're not back there yet.

I'm going to strategically poke, poke, cut and cut until Bob's body is incredibly worn down, finally Bob is done, but before I can get to the painting I need to make him a pedestal and what better pedestal for a space fascist than the corpse of a zenos. The Orcs, of course, play a prominent role in the 41st Millennium and, for my part, are the perfect pedestal. Because proportions and anatomical correctness are secondary to being big, green and angry, I'll start with a piece of aluminum wrapped in a sheet of clay, then place a pair of oversized arms extended in a dead pose before developing the muscles around. his chest and giving him a big, fat, muscular beer belly and big, bulging biceps.

I'll make her head by wrapping a small aluminum ball in its own clay casing, then poking in some eye sockets and framing a small flattened nose once I have that. skull that looks pretty good. I can place the lower jaw oversized and begin to increase the volume of the cheeks and cheekbones. I will then place some small black eyeballs into the socket of my previously pierced eye so I can start developing the eyelids and cheekbones before finally poking some in. sniffing holes in the front of his little pig nose and refining the overall shape. I've pre-baked some teeth that I can crush into that oversized jaw with awesome dimples before using my stylus to add some detail to the surface.

I can finally attach a collar. the back of the head to make it easier to attach and I will give this decapitated head a pair of appropriately orcish ears and it will be ready to be pressed onto the body. I don't know much about the anatomy of future orcs, but I think they suffer from nerd neck, which results in a head that is always tilted somewhat forward, even when they are asleep or dead. Once I've thickened the muscles around the neck and shoulders, I'll give the muscles some additional details and then move on to doing some big ones. hands to make space orc hands.

I'll start with a big lump of clay and flatten it into a fingerless mitten where I'll cut off a few fingers and then it'll just be a matter of poking, pushing, twisting and pulling until I have a suitably impressive hand. Open fist with sausage fingers that I can hold to my outstretched arm. I'll blend the connection point, then repeat this process to do the other hand, then smooth everything out nicely with a thick layer of isopropyl alcohol, finally all that muscle needs some gnarly definition. so I'll make some extremely accurate exaggerated veins following Bond's sticky bacon trails using a toothpick.

Last but not least, I made a small leather strap that will hold your small metal shoulder plate in place; otherwise now I have something for my space. Marine to stand up, but I need something for my orc to lie down on. I wanted Bob to stand with one foot planted on the orc's belly, but I didn't think about how far the orc's arms would reach when I placed them on his sword. head, so I'm going to need to make a substantial base. Luckily I have some thick pieces of XPS foam left over from previous projects that I can glue tight and then cut until it looks like a piece of Rocky Earth, of course if This is Rocky Earth then it needs to look rocky which means it's time to make the rocks look like a rock.

I wanted to do something to hide the seams on top of the foam, but instead of covering them I thought I could just cut. A few more lines on the surface and I'll add a lot of cracks to make it look like concrete slabs. I want to make a bunch of concrete walls with several pieces of rebar sticking out, so I'm going to take these thick XPS foam blocks and break them up. I will then stab the smooth ends of the bigger and I will crush them well to make a hit. Larger pieces to fill the spaces in the base.

I need these larger pieces since my original idea was to have my orc with the internal parts of him falling off. my non-platonic roommate asked me very nicely not to do that since she hates Gore, so instead of noodle intestines I'm going to cover the missing bottom half with big blocks of foamy concrete before adding too much, although I want to make sure that the frame is fine for Bob since he will be the star of the show, but once it is temporarily in place I can fill in the rest of the space, cover the rest of my ungutted orc and sprinkle lots of little pieces of foam on all the other places to do It looks like a completely destroyed building.

I will then give the base a thick spray of isopropyl alcohol followed by a diluted PVA glue to hold the foam in place and to add a little more texture I will scatter lots of small stones and pieces. of gravel over the entire base, then I can set this aside to cure and repaint Bob. There are now many colorful options when it comes to painting a Space Marine, but I've always been partial to the more muted dark look. Angel's sword guards, so I'll start by giving Bob a pale off-white primer. Now, with the primer in place for him, I can start adding the initial details starting with his chapter Badge on his shoulder, however, I thought it might be fun to put my channel logo on it. on his shoulder and spoilers, it wasn't like that.

I began by sketching the design with a pencil before realizing that I have neither the skill nor the patience to freehand write an intricate Celtic knot. Then I thought maybe I could make a template, but it would need to be large and flexible enough to wrap around the curved shoulder pad, which led me to try making one out of clay, once I cut out the initial Leaf shape I realized That I needed to add all those little empty sections in the right places and my balls started to itch, so I scrapped that idea and decided maybe it would be a stylized little shoulder plate with a raised design.

To that end, I took the logo I had previously removed and cut it out of the clay. Instead, I still had to remove everything. the little bits, but it's much easier to cut them out of the larger design and adjust them afterwards, once I have some sort of shaky looking blade attached to my shoulder pad, I can clean up the cuts while it's attached too. Aside from adding the loops and swirls that make this Leaf a knot, this actually ended up being much easier to do with the clay since my skills painting the Leaf have a lot to be desired and having it in three dimensions in the clay me aid.

I added the circles around the outside and trimmed it a bit to add a little more battle damage, but other than that we're finally ready to paint now. I don't paint Space Marines, but I watch a lot of videos of people who do and this one in particular. Paint Scheme is heavily inspired by fellow YouTuber Traran, who made a ridiculously cool looking Space Marine at a significantly reduced scale. I've linked the video of it below, so go and check it out for me, although I started by coating the body with a distressed primer. bone wash before going back with a much lighter off white to highlight all the larger surfaces and raised sections staying away from the edges and gaps, this should give me a good base that I can then go back to with that first bone wash WEA and I will repaint the entire body to combine all the tones.

I'll then highlight Edge all the edges with a light highlight to bring out the edges before taking out my favorite painting tool to add texture and make the surfaces a little less smooth. I'm very careful with paint, but if I have to do it, I almost always choose to use a sponge. I'll mix in the darker shades and work my way up to the lighter highlights to give everything a messy textured look sooner. I add wear. I want to paint the logo on the shoulder, so I'll start by painting the blue parts in blue and the red parts in red.

I can highlight the edges with black and then I'll add a little bit of black to each of the knot folds before I add some. Brighter reds and blues to finish it off now, the only thing better than sponge painting is adding wear and battle damage with a sponge. I'll randomly apply a dark graphite along the edges and around the large chunks of missing armor. I do not do it. I really think you can overdo this part, but if you accidentally go a little overboard with the damage, you can always sponge with the lighter armor shades on top and no one will notice the spots my sponge can't reach.

I'll use a brush. With the brush I can also move small pieces of graphite outwards, as well as create longer chips and cuts, as well as join some of the larger chips together. Finally, once I've added all the blackish bits, I can apply some natural steel deep inside. grooves where the damage is deep enough, then it's time to paint the Under Armor nude black, which I'll start by painting with a matte black followed by some dark grays to light gray highlights to add a bit of VAR color variation that I'll paint. the belt with brown leather and the buckle and the imperialis with silver.

I will then cover both pieces of silver with a verree and rub the top to finally leave me with a sort of greenish silver finish, although it goes against the grain. This is why I added a bit of rust around both as I thought it looked cool. I know silver doesn't rust but I like the way it looks and this is a 9t tall astronaut with two hearts so I think we can give it a little rust. room for a rusty silver belt buckle. Then I'll paint the silver parts of his silver helmet and do the same with the vents on his backpack.

I will give the chains a couple coats of bronze followed by a silver highlight and then I can paint the handle with steel and a little sponge will give the blade a metallic soy finish. Finally I'll add some silver chips with the sponge and add lots of little Nix and scratches in silver using my smaller brush. I'll paint all the metal parts of the Bolter with a mix of silver and steel, since that's what I had left over in my mixing pot, then I'll give the entire gun rage body a dark red base coat followed by progressively lighter red spongesOn top of the superior part.

The entire gun will take a lot of wear with a silver-coated sponge and brush to remove any chips. Then I can paint the flying skull in gold and paint the banner in beige. I wanted something attractive enough for the banner, but I couldn't think of anything that wouldn't be embarrassing. Nervous inducing, so I went to North for a bit of self promotion. Finally, I will give each Bob piece that was painted metallic a blackish brown wash to give it that all-important final tarnish. All that's left to do is paint. red eyes, which I will do by adding progressively brighter reds towards the center of the eye and finishing with a final fluorescent red to make them as bright as possible.

With that, Bob is finally finished and ready for final assembly and dare I say he's watching. like an absolute baseball player, huh, except that he maybe he has too much weight. I considered giving him a pie and a tabard, but decided that would seem too busy, so instead I made him a couple of tactical pouches for his belt and a sweet heretic stab. the big combat knife otherwise Bob is finished so I just need to finish the base. At this point the glue is cured and all you need is a little color. I'll start by priming the base black followed by some overhead highlighting which is really just blasting white from top to bottom.

I'll give the nameless, legless orc a base coat of sick dog green and then completely cover the rocky parts with several coats of gray. The zenial primer will have only added white to the top coat of the base. leaving all the cracks and hidden parts black, so by applying thin translucent layers of the grays you should be able to retain the shading to add a bit of depth to the brighter spots, although I will follow the gray top layers with a full dip. an ombre and black wash once it has had a chance to dry. I dry brushed all of the stone work with progressively lighter shades of gray, followed by some stippled brownish gray on the darker sections.

The orc is a little too dark for my taste, so I'll apply a couple of layers of lighter but still very orc-appropriate greens on top to create a much more vibrant skin tone before painting his eyes black with tiny red pupils. Finally I can paint his mouth with some reds and terracottas before painting his teeth with bone. White Whites and a CPO wash, all exposed rebar will be coated with some metallic steel followed by a couple of coats of rust colored paints. I painted the leather with leather straps with small silver studs and gave one shoulder pad a metallic finish with a little red. applied with a sponge on top, since red is the fastest color, I can finally place Bob in his place triumphantly over his enemy and we are finally done and move on to the Glamor Shots.

He, as always, a big thank you to the absolute gems on Patreon and a special shout out. you are for my new sponsors Michael Patton Robin haml Austin Welter Beck xcat Whitney loyo sinera 33 beer in Shell Zachary Arthur happy birthday Tatiana aka babusi Charlie yayon Tera DN Billy Robinson L Bell Mason KY boy happybirthday Explore the SAU kids Lilo Jake holding Godfy Bexus Silver Kristen and Ashley Priest you are these strategically placed pieces of rocky debris that keep the inside of this canal from falling I hope you like this one because it was long if you did it like this So far, thanks.

I guess otherwise I'll see you next time, regards.