Are 4-Stroke Bike Kits better than 2-Stroke Kits? Let's find out!

In a previous video we built a two-

stroke

bike

, it turned out to be a pretty good kit. Some people don't like that two-

stroke

smoke, so I've had a lot of requests to build a four-stroke

bike

. Once you build the four-stroke bike today, we'll go ahead and do some testing and compare it to the two-stroke bike. Well, the chain guard fuel tank muffler chain has the chain tensioner throttle and another grip which is the engine mount. and this is the sprocket that goes on the wheel, so this stretching manual is definitely not helpful for assembling the bike.

All it does is give you information on how to properly maintain this engine. It has some safety instructions. Some technical data on engine preparation. make sure there is enough oil starting the engine running servicing the engines the parts diagram the throttle cable ok this is the engine kit it looks like this one has a small area to add new oil this is a sprocket it has a clutch centrifugal valves in the head and has a pull start. The first thing you need to do is remove the rear wheel split into one of these two and a half so that it fits around the inside of the sprocket.

Trying to install this sprocket can be a really easy process, the key for me is to look for those hole patterns inside the spokes and align the rubber gasket over the top of the sprocket so it is centered and make sure it fits. each hole is free of the spokes and that way, when you put the sprocket on, make sure the holes are lined up so this is easy unless you have ten hands. I like to just take a piece of masking tape and I use cheap tape, not gorilla tape because you will never be able to remove this tape, just apply the tape over the top of the sprocket.

Make sure to attach the tape to the spokes. All bolts and sprocket are held in place with this adhesive tape. Now that we have it up, we can easily add the washers and nuts on top of the bolts. You know, the nuts begin. We can just turn it over and remove all the tape, so it is very important that the sprocket is centered around the axle or hub, otherwise the chain will wobble a lot. There is a pretty good size gap between the sprocket. and the center makes it very difficult to have this centered, so what I'm going to do is fill the space with zip ties, this will allow me to make sure it's perfectly centered now that we have the zip ties acting as a spacer for tightening. between the hub and the sprocket, we'll go ahead and incrementally write each of these bolts in a sort of cross pattern until we tighten the sprocket and then of course we'll make sure that the sprocket is the same distance from the spokes around so we have all the lug nuts tight and what we're going to do is spin this wheel really quickly to see if there's any wobble and to make sure it's centered around the axle.

I recommend buying. the extended crank arm assembly which allows the crank arm to extend further than the factory one, otherwise the pedal itself may come into contact with the motor, so instead of replacing the crank arm assembly now , I'll skip this step just to see how we're going to need a lot of clearance and then we'll see if these extended crank arms will actually do the job or if we need to do any additional modifications, unfortunately this bike I'm riding I'm not going to have room for the box so I'm going to have to come up with a different design to make this work, so for now I wouldn't remove the air box and we'll move on to installing the engine, the next thing we want to do. is to install the engine on the engine mount.

I don't really trust lock washers, so I always recommend using a medium strength thread locker. It is important to make sure you install this plate on the motor before installing it on the bike because if you install this bracket on the bike frame first, you will not be able to reach the bolts that hold the motor to the motor mount. We go ahead and reinstall these two engine mounts, just keep them loose so you can tighten them later. The next thing we do is install these engine mounts. I always like to use a bit of thread lock on them.

The last thing you want is for these things to vibrate and come loose, so there is a way to remove this crank arm if you have the right tools. I don't have the tools for this, but I'm going to use a pitman arm puller that would work well. The way to do this is to just start threading this, we'll just tighten it, this will release it, this side definitely has a problem with the crank arm that comes packaged with the motor, so we'll definitely have to change it, as you can see, The crank arm now clears the side of the engine.

The downside to converting a mountain bike is that I lost three sprockets. and I trade it for one, so there is definitely some compromise involved, but I think it will be worth it. The next part of the process is installing the chain. We want to make sure that the chain is not too long and we may have to end up removing a couple of legs, okay that will be perfect and in fact what I'm going to do is use this setup without the chain tensioner because, As I understand it, that chain tester can be quite dangerous, we should remove it.

On some lengths there is a special tool designed to do this and another option is to simply use the center punch. You can just drill the pin to the proper length, so just a tip on the master link retainer, what you don't want to do is if you face the master link retainer like this, if it comes into contact it will come off the retainer and then you will lose the chain, so I always recommend having the link closed and looking in the direction the chain is heading just to avoid a catastrophe. I can see most people installing their chain tensioners this way, the problem is that this can roll to one side, get caught in the spokes and suddenly your wheels will lock up and you'll end up crashing, so my goal It is always necessary to remove any type of chain tensioner if possible.

Do this. We're going to modify the motor a little bit so we can slide it forward enough to make this chain tighten up so you can eliminate this chain tester just by using the different ones. engine mount adjustments, plus being able to slide the engine location up and down a little bit to get a really nice tightness, so next we're going to install the exhaust, make sure to use the exhaust gasket. I intentionally left this heat shield off because I want the engine to get as much air as possible to keep it cool. The next step is to install the fuel shutoff, so we'll go ahead and add this little rubber gasket, just be careful not to overdo it. -tighten this, no need to be too aggressive with this or your disassembly can't be big enough, you'll probably have to get over it, we have three wires that are exposed and if I put the tank on top, these wires won't work. one of these goes to the rear brakes and then of course they go to the gears so what I'm going to do is use a piece of PVC pipe that I broke off and go in and cut this off.

I'm going to place it on top. Top of these cables and little freedom of movement of these cables on one side mount the tank to the side but install a fuel line I need to install the throttle cable as well as the on/off switch to be able to do this we need to remove this grab these grips It can be a challenge and I don't want to take this out of Horley so I'm going to use compressed air, we're just going to put a throttle cable in position so this says safe. and not turn, this has a little peg on it, so we're going to have to drill a little hole in the handlebar.

I'm going to use a quarter inch drill bit to do that and drill this hole without the drill bit moving all over the place. In this location, I will use a center punch to tap the handlebars and that will allow the bit to stay in position. The throttle cable will go behind the seat and go through this little bracket, so it's very important to note the position. of the throttle before connecting the cable, if the cable is too short because it is not adjusted correctly, the idle will be extremely high; In fact, the engine could accelerate almost out of control, so make sure the throttle cable is long enough once you connect.

If you want to make sure it returns to the starting position, which this does, as you can see, the throttle is working fine, it's important to have this ignition cable out of the way, some of them just tie this to the frame we go to. To match the red to the brown and the black to the blue I will leave the chain guard off, it is something to consider although if you are concerned about safety definitely put it on, this is the engine kill switch once the engine is running March. all you have to do to get the bike running is pull back on the throttle, the choke is in the start position once the engine is running, all you have to do is slide it to the run position for this motor fits correctly.

I had to modify the air box well it's not pretty it's a good job keeping the dirt out so make this starter motor move this to the outboard position this is the choke and this should allow us to get more fuel to start, then what engine? The kit is

better

the two-stroke kit or the four-stroke kit. I really think it depends on what you're looking for so I'll break it down talking about the advantages of each first for the two stroke kit, what do you think? If there are five main advantages that the two-stroke kit has over the four-stroke kit, the first is that it is a very light engine compared to the four-stroke, it weighs about half, the second advantage is that it is an easy to install, look at all this space, this is a small motor and it is very easy to fit it into a frame.

The third advantage, although it is smaller, it also has more power than the four-stroke engine, one of the reasons why it has more. power because it is a larger engine in terms of displacement, although it is advertised as a DCC, it is actually only 66, but it is still much larger than the 50 cc four-stroke engine. This engine makes about two and a half horsepower compared to the single 1.6 horsepower. With the four-stroke engine, the next big advantage is the price. This kit can be found for around one hundred and twenty dollars. If you really look you can get a great deal on these, probably the biggest plus is no.

You have to change the factory cranks and you do not have to change the main front sprocket. This means that you don't lose any of your gears and you can ride this bike with or without the help of the motor, so with all the advantages that the two-stroke engine has over the four-stroke, you are probably already thinking that the two strokes is the only way to go; However, there are six main advantages that the four-stroke kit has over the first two-stroke. Is it much easier to start with a pull start on the side? The motor on the second pull directly out of the box.

This engine has started since I had this kit. Every time I press the pull start it only takes one or two pulls to get the engine running so it's really easy to start the two stroke engine, it doesn't have a pull start or kick start, you actually have to crank it. the bike and then release the clutch to start the engine. The second big advantage is that there is no exhaust smoke. Many people have complained about all the exhaust smoke coming out of the two-stroke kit, but this is a very clean burning engine. The third big advantage is noise.

It is a very clean engine. very quiet engine kit compared to the two-stroke kit, the next big advantage is that this is a very easy bike to ride because this kit has a centrifugal clutch, the two-stroke does not, so for this bike to work everything what you have to do What you have to do is turn the throttle grip and the bikes will take off with the two-stroke kit. You have to use a clutch to start the engine and then you have to use the clutch to start and then stop. The next big advantage is fuel efficiency this is a very fuel efficient engine compared to the two stroke kit.

Well, I don't know the exact fuel efficiency for each of the two

kits

. I can tell you that I get

better

fuel efficiency with the four stroke engine. The advantage is that this is an engine that runs very smoothly compared to a two-stroke. At higher speeds, the two-stroke tends to vibrate quite a bit, but the four-stroke barely vibrates. That four-stroke bike bump is so much fun. It wasn't that difficult either. I was very impressed with how quickly that bike was able to come out of the box without modifications. 37 miles per hour, which is pretty fast, the two-stroke bike is equally impressive, so if you're in themarket for a two or four stroke bicycle.

Both

kits

cost less than $200. Still, it's very hard to beat the price. I liked your video ideas on what kind of bike modifications I should do to a two or four stroke. -racing bicycles. I'm really interested and see what these bikes are capable of and there are a lot of good video ideas on some interesting modifications so give me your video ideas. I've read and responded to almost all the comments anyway, I hope. you will like to share and subscribe thanks for watching the video and looking forward to the next time