+1,000HP 2JZ-GTE Engine Build - Full Start to Finish [4K]

Today we are re

build

ing our 2JZ GTE

engine

from our Mark IV Super. In the last episode you saw us tear this

engine

completely down to a bare block. Today we are going to

build

it with aftermarket components and continue. for a thousand horsepower, let's get into this, this is a 2JZ GTE engine, we have it completely disassembled here, we have all the parts laid out for now, let's go over some of the parts that we will use to assemble this engine to

start

. We got our Jay-Z GTE engine block, sent it to a machine shop, had it covered for a nice new head gasket, and put the holes in for our pistons to move into the rotating assembly.

We have a set of forged Wiseco pistons. Original compression pistons. This will be a flex fuel car, so having stock compression will give us good performance at something like 100 octane. It will also give us good performance within the E85. We have a set of boost line cranks and I. I am very excited to use these things, they look absolutely beautiful, it is a forged steel that connects and this will do the job very well. We will also be using

full

ARP hardware, we have a main bolt kit and a head bolt kit. kit and of course our connecting rods have 625 plus ARP bolts, we have a lot of sensors from our friends at Advanced Auto Parts, we have most of the engine sensors and we also have a timing belt and component kit here, so this is our water pump all of our idler pulleys our tensioner pulleys and also moving towards the top end we have a bunch of cool parts this is a Grady timing belt I love the blue, it's always a very nice component to keep in the engine as well as a set of adjustable gratty cam gears we have a clear timing cover so everything looks good so we can see and display all of our beautiful gratty components we have an fv2 purge valve that will work as well as a set of gretty pulleys , this is our cylinder head so it's actually not the cylinder head that came with the car, that cylinder head was damaged beyond its use for the power we're going to have, we had a lot of warp valves and one of the cylinders actually It had a hole in it and that's the reason the engine wasn't running very well, so we got a new cylinder head from Toyota.

This is a new cylinder head that is part of the Heritage program, which is really cool. I sent it to the port flow, my friend Tom went ahead and checked the head, gave it a radius valve job and a

full

port and we polished it, and this is ready to make some power moving to the rear. We have a cast rtek single turbo manifold. This thing will be tasked with fueling our huge Garrett G Series turbo. This is a 1200v band g42 and it is absolutely epic and this thing is incredibly huge. It's going to generate good power to keep you going.

We have a complete fuel system. Our friends at Dishworks sent us rail pressure regulating injectors and a bunch of other parts including lines and filters, and we have a lot of PRP parts that will be great to keep going. We have an R35 GTR coilover kit. we're going to use, in addition to your mounting brackets and your wiring harness adapter, this is a set of Toyota master engine gaskets, which is really good, it will allow us to repackage the entire engine using new OEM items and maintain This thing is sealed and working properly. We are also converting this car to drive by wire, so we have a new Bosch, so this will pair very well with our Halltec Elite 2500.

We are going to use nitrous in this engine. I'm not 100% sure if we're going to need it to get to a thousand. I don't think we will, but it's always fun to have nitrous and of course our super build this year is partnering with Sunoco to bring this to SEMA. so we're going to use your e85r and 100 octane racing fuel now Sunoco helps your engine run cleaner longer and more efficiently and we're going to use Sunoco to keep this engine running nice and clean. This engine was actually built about two three years ago, before I bought the car, obviously there were some issues with it not running very well, but one issue I wanted to address is actually carbon buildup on the pistons, so when they rebuilt this engine they bought a new one. piston set for this and obviously two or three years of wear shouldn't look like that, that's a lot of carbon build up for a not so long run time and Sunoco fuels have high detergents, same detergent levels as NASCAR actually and it will. prevent your engine from getting carbon build up in this when we go for very high power carbon build up can be a problem it can cause knocking and pre detonation in an engine and that's not good because it can blow up your engine so let's be running all of our Sunoco along with a really well configured cash register system and our engine will look nice and clean even after many years of use, so the first thing we need to do is check the gap between the piston and the ring so that These are our piston rings, this is what SEALS the piston inside the engine block, so depending on how much power you are going to use and what pistons you have and the diameter, there are many factors that go into the end.

The clearance of this needs to be and we are going to check that because we are going to use a very high horsepower construction the cylinder needs to withstand a lot of heat and add clearance and play in the ring so adding more clearance at the end of this will allow the engine will generate more heat through it, with more untapped boost, so what we're going to do is drop our ring so we have all the sets of rings numbered and they will be checked. the hole they're in, so we've got one, two, three, four, five and six, and we're going to inspect them in their respective cylinders, so we're going to roll it down, we're going to push the ring down with our nice, flat piston like that, you can actually see the end gap, that little gap where the end of the piston meets, so that's what we're going to have to adjust so point two is a little bit loose, so It's probably between 0.2 and 0.25 we need to take it to 0.07 now I have my little ring grinder here so it's actually a diamond tipped blade so what we're going to do is we're going to put the ring here we're going to put the edge against Turn this thing and it will slowly cut the material off the end of the ring.

Here we go, our first ring is in spec, so I have a little bit of drag on the feeler gauge. Here the ring does not move. which is good, so there are two compression rings per cylinder, so we have a 12 ready. I'm going to remove the rest of these rings to eliminate any extraneous spaces. This is the second compression ring on cylinder six and we're done, so off I go. give this engine block to Mickey to paint and I'm going to

start

putting pistons in and connecting their routes, let's keep going until we have our boost line connecting rod and we have our ysco pistons and we're just going to take a look at everything and make sure that everything is in good condition, that the bushing at the top is not damaged, and that the connector rod appears to be in good condition.

These are new, but it's always a good idea to check and make sure everything looks good and then we're going to have to open this up so this is our wrist pin, so this is the pin that actually holds the connecting rod to the piston and we're going to make sure everything slides in nice and easy so that's what you want if you have a burr in the bore that's going to get stuck in one spot and not be able to slide all the way in now this has to move because again when the piston and the rod rotate around the engine compartment, the piston oscillates up and down, the connecting rod swings, so it will be a pivot point.

Let's do the same thing with the wrist pin on my crank. I want to make sure it slides nice and easily over there if we had a burr on the crank we would have to sand it down with some fine grit sandpaper. I had a set of connecting rods because it was an M3 engine that had a burn on one of the connecting rods, so it wasn't right. I had to fix that. but it's no big deal, all the stuff we got from the impulse line seems to be in very good condition, so let's open our circlip package.

These are kind of a trick to work with and after putting them together you know four. or six passengers, the ends of your fingers will be a little tight, so there is a ring groove if you see the inside of the piston, that's where the circlip goes, so they're very much like snap rings without the end of a snap ring bit, so the first one should be pretty easy, but once we have the connecting rod and all that stuff assembled that's when it gets tricky, so we're just going to roll the circlip into the piston like this so one stays in now let's go To get some assembly lubricant that we have here, we'll use a lot of this in the engine build to put a little bit on my finger, all bubbly, and then we'll put it in the piston groove.

When the engine is running, this gets greased, so we're going to want to pre-grease almost everything on this to make sure everything slides nicely. We'll do the same thing with the crank bushing right on our The bushing started so that the wrist pin bottoms out on that ring and the tricky part of this will be putting the other ring on, so we're going to make the ring start here again and then we'll just block it. There we go, now we have our piston arrived at our connecting rod and that's a six. Well, you guys know this is your last chance to enter to win our C6 Z06 plus 20,000 cash.

We built this car with the Hoonigans. It's supercharged and looks amazing. Go to throttle.com. Every dollar you spin will give you one entry to win this car plus 20,000 cash so get those entries guys everything is ready to go so now we're going to install the piston rings on our pistons because the rings are separated in the boiler, they will go to them as soon as you put them on the piston, that piston belongs to that cylinder, so I have some masking tape here, so In fact, let's mark this, this will be the cylinder one, a nice little one, so now it's going to be four combined with the piston one in the engine block because of the rings, so we're going to open it up and we have two compression. rings and three oil rings and one of them is a small wave ring, the gaps between the ends of all the rings have a specific orientation that they should be in, but we'll address that when we get to installing the pistons into the block.

So for now we're just going to put it all together and line them up before we drop the piston into the bore, so this is our little wave room, oh, that's a lot, it's going to hold the ring grooves in place. a little too much there, perfect, so there's our wave ring for the whole control ring and that has a top ring and a bottom ring, come on, there we go, and then we have the top one that slides up, so there's a little control ring above and below the wave ring, so there's our oil control ring now, the two compression rings are a little bit stiffer and we have a tool to install them, so they have a direction, so that this guy actually grabs the end of the ring and will actually open it up for me like this and now you can let go of this guy, like this, there we go, so there's the second compression ring and then we'll install our top compression ring in the center .

Style, here we go, so now We have rings on our pistons, as you can see the gaps on the ends are hanging down, so they have a specific orientation described by Wiseco, so we'll have one on this side, we'll have a gap on the end ring on the other side. so there's a ring chart right here so this is the ring orientation chart so looking down from the top of the piston we have the o-ring clearance at the top of the o-ring at the bottom of the O-ring. Separate the oil ring expander gap, which is that little top compression of the wave ring and then the second compression, so when we put this on the engine, we'll orient the rings like the chart suggests and then we'll compress them and put them on the engine, so for now I'm going to put the rest of the rings on. the rest of the pistons and then we'll start tackling the crankshaft and then we'll get to these guys if you haven't already make sure to subscribe to the throttle YouTube channel and turn on the bell notification so you don't miss anything thanks.

Your foreigner looks absolutely beautiful, so now we're going to fit our crankshaft, remove them, install our crank with our new bearings and thrust washers, use ARP hardware and check the bearing clearances to make sure everything is okay and, according to the specifications, foreign ER, this is one of the differences between an engineGTE, which is the super engine, the super turbo engine and a non-turbo engine, so these guys actually squirt a little bit straight up into the Cylinder to lubricate everything, keep it cool, so we have six of them, one percent, we're going to introduce them very quickly and then we're going to introduce our main dishes in oh foreign, so this is the age of plastic, so I took the crank off the machine.

When we send the engine block in for inspection, they're checking for wear, they're checking for rotating bearing repairs and things like that and they're also specifying our bearings, so they take a micrometer, they measure all the journals and then when we send the engine block in engine for inspection, Picks everything up, he tells me what sizes of bearings we will need, so we will use standard size bearings because the crank is a standard size and nothing has been done to this crank other than being on a running engine , so pit. The gauge is not the most accurate way to measure bearing clearances, but I like to do it because it's already been checked and so we're going to use this to check it again to confirm and make sure everything is where we need it to be just because they measured it, you could have measured it incorrectly if something like that happened, let's catch it with this, so what it is is more or less a small thread, so when you put the bearing caps on and tighten everything, the oil clearances are very small, thousands of inches is what we're measuring here and how much that little piece of green squish is going to tell us what our clearance is, so this is a millimeter, this side is a thousand, so a little bit and we're going to cut it out and place it on each journal, here, put it in the dead center and now. when we put the lid on and press everything down it's going to be crushed, let's take it off and it will tell me when I get close to it this will tell me how much it has been crushed and it will tell me Tell us if we are in the acceptable space range or not, it's like a last check fold just to make sure everything is good and then we'll take off all the lids, make sure everything is good, clean, put assembly lube everywhere and put it back together and that will be in the crumpled container for the last time.

Ah, so I tightened our main caps with our new ARP bolts. Everything is tight, which means we have maximum crush in our plastic box. to break them in, remove the main caps and then take a look at them haha ​​so this is the first time I've used plastic and it's glued to the bearing and not the journal, usually oh this one is like half. stuck to the journal, you're usually coming off and they'll stay on the journal, so being on the bearing is a little different, but it doesn't really make much of a difference, so the specs for this are about 10 to 15 thousandths, like this that we have ten at the top, which is the thick green, it was ten thousand fifteen thousand, it's this light white line, so we're going to stick it right in the middle and it's pretty much the same, so we're measuring the width to which seems pretty spot on at 15 so 16 mil is about the max spec so this is on the wider end of the spec which is fine so let's put this one back in and we'll go through them all and we're going to make sure that all of them are all the same, they're all within spec and after we mark them up we're going to clean everything up again and put a vinyl assembly loop on this and it's closer to 15 than 10, but it's still fine. okay, so our last bearing is good, they're all good, cylinder 5 was a little tighter than 15, but that's okay because our spec is a little above 15.

So now we're going to clean this all up. and we're going to do a final assembly on all of this, we're going to literally lubricate everything, the thrust bearings, the main bearings, we're going to take this out, clean it again and then put it back together, oh our crankshaft is officially in, everything is lubricated, everything It's tight. All of our bearings are good and it spins nice and easy, it makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside, so now let's take a quick side step. I actually like to seal the room while it's still a short block with a crank makes it a lot easier to drive and improves the oil pan seal a little bit, so let's take this off the bracket, put in our new seal main and then we'll come back and we're going to start installing our pistons and connecting rods and then start checking the rod bearings thank you thank you so it's time to install our pistons and connecting rods of course we put them together we set our rings I've got the oil ring end spaces aligned with We have not yet aligned the compression rings, as you saw when we assembled the piston, we have a table of spaces where all the rings should be up to where the spaces between the ends go, so we What we are going to do is what we are going to do.

Take this out, we're going to tap our top rod bearing in and then drop the piston in with our gaps lined up, fresh raspberries, there's our second upgrade ring and our top compression ring. The space must be there, so now we have all of them. our rings are set up where they need to be, so this is my piston ring or piston and sun ring, so this little tool, if you look to the side, actually when I tighten it it's compressing the rings, so our rings are very fragile and must be compressed when they go into the piston, if one comes out it can break which is not good so we need to make sure we have the tool nice and flat ok there is one in six come on baby thanks like Come on, guys. we have two pistons, we have cylinder one and cylinder six, everything went very well, so we'll turn it over and check our order, so the same thing we did with the mains will be done with the connecting rods where we are.

We're going to double check everything with the plastic gauge so we have all the bearings clean. There's a little bit of oil on this journal, so we're going to clean all that off and then we're going to lift up the rods. We had the bearings put in and again this crank was inspected by the machine shop and they told us to use standard size bearings so that's what we're going to do but we're just going to double check if it's that rod for cylinder number one. rod cap, I should say we're going to do one and six because they're in pairs, both journals are at bottom dead center at the same time, so one and six we're going to do two and five in pairs. and then we'll do three and four as well, so let's set up the other rod cap with the bearing and then we'll put in our plastic gauge so the machine will inspect this crank again and they gave us bearing specifications, we should be good with the bearings standard size, but we're going to use a plastic gauge to confirm that the outside is our crushed plastic gauge, so I'm going to remove cylinder one, remove that one and then we'll grab our little one. tool and measure them, it looks like we're a little bit smaller than 15 thousand on this one, so our spec is about nine thousand to about sixteen thousand.

These journals cost quite a bit of money, which is really nice, so they are a little more flexible. At the end of the spec, which is fine with the neighbors really having a high horsepower build here and a little bit of extra oil cleaning, we never heard anything so we'll clean them of the final lube and then leave them and that's it. with cylinders one and six, so there's a really good example of why I'm going slow if you watch a lot of engine building videos. You'll see some guys who just swing a hammer and sink these things.

I like to take my time and go slowly and in this case it saved me, the tool wasn't one hundred percent seated correctly and right there is our second compression ring and that's our top compression, excuse me, now it's swept away if you were hammering that, I would have just broken the ring, but because I was going carefully I felt it stick and we're okay, let's get this bad boy out, which might have to turn the engine over to do that, so now let's go reset our tool and try again so the end spaces are still where they should be to reset my tool here you want to make sure it's nice and flat which should be fine now so I have to keep this thing flat so another ring doesn't No No leaks, let's go to the foreign assembly, everything looks good.

Everything feels very smooth, so now our pieces are really going to start fighting in this thing. I'm going to start with our front oil pump, let's turn it around. handle our upper oil pan, all the puzzling, the pump, pick up all that stuff and then put our lower pan on, turn it over and then we'll start tackling the cylinder head, all good, strange, thanks, so the oil pan the oil pump practically everything. on the lower end, which is good, so now we're going to start tackling the front of the engine, we'll add some components for our timing belt kit from our friends at Advanced Auto Parts, as well as some engine sensors and we'll get there. to the foreign connecting rods of the cylinder head and everything is ready to go.

We're about to drop our butt. This thing looks absolutely beautiful with both of them actually being a work of art. We have an OEM Toyota cylinder head. board that we are going to use, what is this type here, thank you foreigner, it is completely installed. I'm checking and lubricating all of our valve springs and our hubs, and if I remove the hub, you can get a good photo of our beautiful Brian Crowder titanium spring and retainer set looks so cool it's a shame to hide them under All this. What does this upgrade kit basically accomplish for you?

So it actually closes the valve faster and a little more aggressively and when you're running at high RPM it pretty much extends the RPM limit of the top end of the valve drain, so why does your car have a rev limit? ? It only accelerates to the redline, which is like seven thousand or eight thousand most of the time, it's because of the valve spring because when you're going really fast as far as engine RPM goes, there's a point where The valve spring can no longer keep up with the demand or speed of the engine, so what you will have is the valve will float.

So where the valve float is is when the engine is moving so fast that the spring doesn't have the force to close the valve and when that happens the gun lifts up and breaks the valve, it pretty much destroys the engine so this it will allow us to run at higher RPMs and it will allow us to run safer on that higher pin and keep everything in good shape, which is why the valve springs are also usually like this on an engine like this, this Jay-Z is 30 years old. man, this car lives its life for a long time and is just a normal car and then you take the engine apart and ask it for a thousand horsepower, those springs may not be up to the task in the first place let alone after have done it.

On the road for 30 years these are wear components and it's always good to upgrade them and make sure everything is tilted so we've got a nice set of valve springs here so we're about to release our camshafts. and this is the set we have, this is a Brian Crower 276, there's a stage 3 big boy cam, plus this thing is going to have some cuts and make some really good noises and we're going to reduce our intake. Well, many times there is a number associated with the camera and my previous question was the size is that, what is that number?

So you mean 230 or 250. Yes you see 255. 275 o Usually when a lot of people say I have a chamber they list a few things and the main one is duration so the time the valve is open is measured in degrees of rotation, so if you think about intake compression power. exhaust cycle, your pistons go up and down twice per engine cycle, so you have compression power intake, exhaust, so the crankshaft is making two full rotations now the camshafts move at half that speed, they now move one full rotation for every two rotations of the crank. You can measure the crankshaft in an engine cycle as 200 or 720 degrees, meaning two forward, three 360.

This is 720 right now, the cams are measured that way in those degrees of rotation, so I think the original Jay-Z caravan is like 230. something like that the cam lobe is open for 230 degrees of crank rotation so when you increase the size the duration increases so these are 276 so these cam globes are open for 276 degrees, the original is 230. it's like 230, it's like around 2 30. I have to look it up to tell you, but usually the stock cams are like 220, like the original E36, like the ones that aren't mcam, like 225 and then the M3s are like 250. So these are some big block sets so we have a set of 272 in the eclipse and they sound pretty mean so these thingsthey'll generate some power, so the cams are pretty simple, they're called a thumbstick, so as this spins, you can see we have like an egg.

Here you see a shaped thing, so the bucket rides on this cam load, now when you measure it it's from the moment it stops being round, so right there to about where it becomes round again, so that is to open the valve and then close it as this rotates and so when you go for a longer duration chamber or a higher lift chamber, they will make them longer at the top and also longer at the bottom. The height here, so how high is this is your lift spec so you can have cameras that are similar in duration to the factory, but they are listed much higher compared to something with a higher elevation and duration. higher or just a higher duration, so there are so many different camera specs and they actually have camera graphs that are displayed. the degrees and rotation of the cam is really cool, maybe we'll pop one up on the screen, yeah I wish I had one because you could see the lines, so they'll do the intake and exhaust cams set up as one. graph so you can see lines like this like this is when the exhaust opens this is when it closes this is when the intake opens so you can see the sweep on both sides which is cool so you can get different cams that change the overlap So it's the time that the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously, as well as the lift and the duration, and all that.

The cam phase is a huge thing and a world split in England, so there are a lot of interesting things to learn about, but once you figure it out. It's like it's cool to read. Oh, our Brian Carroll camshafts are installed. We're going to put on our cam seals and then move on to our Grady adjustable cam gears and then we'll put on this timing belt system. We have a rear dust cover. installed, now it's time to get into the timing, so we'll be running a set of nice grandmasadjustable cam gears, these will allow us to change the cam phase on the dyno if we need to adjust the powerband or make more power , but they will also look very beautiful inside the engine, so just a quick public reminder that these are assembled by hand when they are put in the box, four of these actually don't even touch each other, they are very loose, so When you buy a set of adjustable cam gears make sure you install them and then make sure you tighten all the cam bolts once the cam gear is installed with some Loctite to make sure they don't go anywhere strange twice , everything stayed where it was, everything is timed, which was good, so now we can start putting our covers back on and putting our fluid damper on, which is something I'm really excited about buttoning up the front end of the timing cover , so let's move on.

Thanks, we all have our timing covers set up. Everything looks fine. Now it's time to install our fluid damper. I love putting a lot of fluid difference in the engines. Every time we build an engine, a fluid damper is put in it, which makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside and they are incredibly awesome. This is the first one we've had that has this color combination and it looks really amazing. It's good, besides that, you have many timing marks. This will be very easy to set up with our Hall Tech and will work great even as a brand for 180, beautiful, so this is one of the first. components of all the really cool stuff we got from Chasebaze.

This is actually a water adapter for the upper hose, which will allow us to reach level 20 instead of having the traditional rubber hose, so we will do it at full speed. 20 on the radiator and that's an adapter for it now. I think at the bottom we have a rotating one that I think is also Dash 20. I'm not 100 sure, but for now we're going to leave this guy open and put it in. which on the ground apparently this thing also has quite a few sensor ports so we have a six board up here so we could use a turbo coolant for that and then we have a temperature probe that we could probably plug into if we need to do this.

I have to be off for that, that's cool, so what I should do is put sensors like our knock sensors and some other things like that, but I don't want to do that, I want to do this, so this is our rtek cast2jz manifold. It looks absolutely beautiful, we put one on the horizon and we loved it and this one will have the job of sending our exhaust gases to our big fat turbo cast manifold, let's turn this on, but we're not going to be. install the engine with a turbo set up so I don't even need to do this.

I just want to do this so that this whole thing works again when we drop the engine in the car, but I do want to see it all together oh that's too big that's too big that thing is huge let's just stick it in our head like this or so which I don't know, I don't know, we're going to have to figure it out Some of our parts from Australia showed up from our friends at Plasma Man. We asked them to make these custom valve covers for us. These are a baffled valve cover that comes with a deflector already built inside and according to their website and what they say.

For us, this reduces the bottom by about 80 percent over a stock valve cover, so it means we can run a much smaller catch, we can't have to worry about blow by, so this is the final piece that we will put on Jay-Z. for this video, this is a PRP R35 GTR coil pack holder, a really beautiful piece. Everything we have received from therapy so far has been absolutely incredible. This will also add some color to the front of the engine, aside from the timing belt. Get this fired up, that's it, our 2JZ GT engine build is

finish

ed, it was a really fun engine to build and we have a huge turbo and I can't wait to see this thing running next time you see this engine.

We're putting it in our Mark 4 Supra starting to pump to power this thing up. Many thanks to all our partners who made the construction of this engine possible. We have Grandma, we have Wiseco, we have the Boost line, we have PRP. have plasma man Garrett turbos r-tech k space fluid shock Advanced Auto Parts and Sunoco and a bunch of other people are going to get in this car this engine is going to break I can't wait to see this thing on the dyno generating something of power let us know in the comments if you like to see versions of an S engine and what we should build next.

There are a lot of engines floating around here. We have an idea of ​​the next version of the engine. They will have to wait. Thank you. Guys, thank you very much for watching, don't forget to like, comment, subscribe, see you in the next one, thank you.