How To Tile A Shower - Start To Finish Walls

In this video, I'm going to show you how to tie a

shower

step by step, from

start

to

finish

, and if you're new to this channel, my name is Josh Channels. It's all about Booty Iron House saving you a ton of money, so be sure to subscribe. ring the bell so you can notify airtime, launch a new video and press the like button for me that's all that came back for making this video so we have a lot to do today so let's

start

with the most part Importantly, tiling your

shower

is planning your shower, so you need to decide what type of

tile

you want, what design you want, and what layout you want.

As for what type of

tile

s you want, you need to decide whether you want porcelain tiles, ceramic tiles, travertine, that's up to you and how As for the design you want, do you want to have a decorative strip in the middle, a decorative strip vertical? Whatever you want, you have to decide that and whether you want shelves or not, most people do and you want to build that. it's a cutout that's inside the tiled shower and as far as what layout you want, do you want the two foot tiles to run vertically? It all depends on what you want in your tile shower.

The design my wife and I decided to do on this tile shower is to take 24 inch tiles and lay them horizontally staggered down the

walls

and then we will have a decorative strip of about six feet. tall, so the first thing I'm going to do is go down here to the bottom and we're going to measure this tile, it's exactly its width, so we have 11 and a quarter inches wide, so with that said, we know that We want at least a one eighth inch space down here from the bottom of the shower pan and we want to use an eighth inch space between each towel as we pass them, so we need to measure 12 inches and make a mark, now that I have 12 inches marked on the wall I'm going to take a level and level a line along this wall now that we have our level line on the wall it's time to take a straight board and screw it to the wall that is flush with that line and that will give us will give a perfectly level first row and the reason I don't want to start with the shower pan is because not all shower pans are level and if you watch my video where I install the shower pan in the top right corner of the screen, you'll notice I did.

I'm going to show you how most of the time you'll need to start your first row of tiles and you'll also want to start at the back of the shower because I don't want to start with the side

walls

first because you'll see a grout joint in each corner when you walk in. to the shower. Now I'm just going to align this board flush with that line and screw it in. straight to the wall, as you may have noticed I installed the center screw first and marked the studs ahead of time and that way you don't have to fight and you can just line up the edges after the fact, although I'm going to install the tile on the back wall first.

I'm going to go ahead and level a line on the top of this board and install the board on the side walls as well. When I install these boards I usually use a minimal number of screws, just one on each end should be adequate, they really don't hold that much weight. Now, on the five foot long wall, I put one in the middle for extra support. Now it's time to put the design on the wall, so the first thing I'm going to do is What you need to do is find the center so that the length of this wall is about 59 inches, so I'm going to go through 29 and a half and I'll make a mark and then I'll go over here just to double check, so 29 and a half and that looks good and what I need to do since I need a line that's on the edge of the tile coming over here, I'm going to go about a sixteenth and the reason we get to a sixteenth is because I'm going to have a grout joint that's an eighth of an inch, so a sixteenth of an offset from the center gives me the edge of the tile that will come this way, so the first row of tiles that I'm going to place on this table.

I need to get the measurement by finding the center, so this tile is 23 and three quarters, so half of that is 11 and 7 8. So I'm going to mark 11 and 7 8 on this tile and hold it. here on the wall to that center mark that I made earlier, so it's right there and it looks good, so I'm going to mark the edge of this tile, so now I know that's the mark that I'm going to have to make. Level the entire wall so I have my center line and then the edge here up to this mark will be the next row, so all I have to do is level this line or should I say, "I'll plumb this line up." I'm going to probe this line up now I know that when I line this tile up to this line here it will put this tile perfectly in the center of the wall so when I'm running my pattern I'm going to use that line when we line up the tile up to this line we know that this row of tiles will be staggered from that center, so we'll use this line for one row and then we'll use this line for the next tile, so it's let's give ourselves a perfectly staggered look going up the wall, now it's time to blend the mortar and to do this you will need a half inch drill with a mixing blade, an empty bucket, some fresh clean water and then the adhesive itself and if you have porcelain tiles, you will have to use an adhesive that is for porcelain , if you have ceramic, you will use an adhesive that is for ceramic, but the way I am going to install is porcelain, so First we will start by pouring the amount that we think we are going to need and since I am working alone, I am not going to put a lot because I can't work fast enough to use much at once.

I'm going to start by adding just a little bit of water and then blend it to see what kind of consistency we get, so it looks like I need to add a little bit more water because it's a little bit thicker than I want. I'm looking for a peanut butter like consistency so just a little bit and a little bit of water goes a long way when it comes to mixing the thin layer and now we need to let it sit for five minutes total this has been setting for approximately five. minutes now all we have to do is mix it again for a few more minutes, that's all there is to mix the adhesive and now it's time to install that tile.

I like to use a leveling system when installing my tile and just show you the parts of it. In one we have the actual spacer and the part that is wedged under the slab to help level it and then we have the actual shim that will squeeze over the top of the slab and go against this piece to level it. I'll show you. this in just a minute and then we got the tool that will be used to tighten it and then we got a quarter inch notched trowel which is for the towel that I will be using and all of this can be found in my Amazon store link.

It's in the description below if you make a purchase and I get a small commission but it's an additional cost to you and it helps support the channel so now I'm going to start here by installing the first row on the back wall so I'm going to start with a center slab, so what I have to do is take my quarter inch trowel and first I'm going to have to put the adhesive on the wall, so what I'm going to do, I'm going to go ahead and put a good shovel on my trowel and I'm going to go ahead and spread it on the wall here ready to go and what we want to do is just take our notched trowel and try to make quarter inch notches where that tile is.

I'm going to go all the way across the wall to where we're going to place the tile when I use the notch test. Make sure you run your test in the same direction on your final extent Now that I have the adhesive on the wall, what do I do now? Do I do what is called re-buttering the tile? I will check it and put a layer of skim coat on the tile as well when I re-butter the tile, make sure you do complete coverage, every square millimeter of the tile should be covered with a skim coat and This is a messy job and I always try Make sure my lines go in the same direction, that way it gives more even coverage, so now that I've buttered the tile again and the wall has thinned out too, I'm going to move on. and paste this right into position and this is the line we're going to work on since that's going to be the line I used for the center tile.

I am aligned with the line I made before. I'm just going to gently push it and move it into place and the idea here is to make sure that we have a good seam with the wall now that we have the tile placement where we want it. I'm going to take the spacers that come with the leveling. kit and then I'm going to place them on each corner of the tile and also on top, just two inches from the edge, here we're going to have a joint, so we need to make sure we add two here like Okay, I have to cut and place a tile here, as you can see, here are our spacers and this is where our grout joints are going to be, so if we take a measurement here, we have 17 and a half right where that spacer is, so we're.

We're going to take off an eighth of an inch because we need to allow for a little expansion, so let's say 17 and 3 8 is fine there and we're going to measure the other side and do the same thing. There are a variety of tools used to cut tile, but the best one I found is a wet saw and this one is made by ridgid. I've had it for years and it has worked great and is affordable. I have a link to my Amazon store in the description below, but how does it work? It's when you turn it on, there is a water pump that pumps water through the device and out around the blade, then you just slide your towel into it and as this blade spins it cuts through the tile, you don't worry about the dust coming out. flying. in the air or anything and you can make very precise cuts with it so I would definitely recommend a wet saw if you have a lot of tiles to do so let's go ahead and cut this tile to wet cut this towel. sole, I'm going to measure over 17 and 3 8 and then I'm going to make a mark like I'm going to cut anything else and now I'm going to line up this mark with the blade, but before I cut I make sure to wear Safety Glasses and I also use protection for your ears because this is very loud, take it and touch the blade to make sure it's lined up correctly with the mark and then I'll hold the slab tight and kick the saw and cut it.

It is very important to cut slowly when using the wet saw as it gives the slab nice cutting edges and it is also easier on the saw, as you can see we have a nice straight line and one more thing you can do is if this was going to be an exposed edge I get what's called a diamond sponge and then I just scrape it like this and it would help give it a nice smooth edge like a factory edge but since this cut is not going to be exposed I'm not going To do it. to do it, but I just want to show you that you can do such a thing since I used the wet saw to cut the tile.

I always like to dry the tile quite well so that the adhesive adheres properly to it, now what? we're going to do, we're going to place this here, but before we do that we clearly have to put more thin layer on the wall there, just like the last stack, I'm going to butter this one too, so now what I have to do make sure to do is put the cut side back where it's going to be covered, so I always try to put factory cuts on top of factory cuts and then the same thing, we'll just glue it right where it goes and then Clearly, we don't have to line it up in a line because we're just going to attach it to the other tile and we're just going to move it into place, we make sure that our tile is tight to the other one and We're going to go ahead and take our little shims that came to the leveling system and you have a smooth side that doesn't have notches and then you have the notched side so the notches go up like this now we're just pushing until it's relatively tight we'll put a top and bottom like this and then all we have to do is take our little tool here and we'll hold it up to the wedge or so or the wedge and draw it. nice tight like this and as you can see our tiles are flush with each other which helps eliminate that edge where one towel is higher than the other, as you can see it's nice and flush, I like how it looks.

Now we are going to install the other tile. I'm not going to continue climbing the wall after this line started at the back. I want to make sure I do the sides next, so I always do the sides and then the back wall all at the same time. At the same time, but again, always start on the back wall so your reveal looks good and now what I'm going to do is go ahead and focus on where I want the mosaic to be on the wall, spread it out and continue with the mosaic. around the shower, when you run the sides of the tile towards the drywall, be sure to put a level line on the wall that will give you a line to cut to so that when you go to install the bullnose trim later, it will be A perfectly straight line is easy to get out of line, so be sure to pay extra attention when cutting the towel to make it fit in place.

Here is the tile that I just cut and that will go back to this corner,as you can see. The edges here are quite jagged because I cut them with the wet saw. Now this will be an exposed edge, meaning it won't be covered by any tile like the one in the corner, so what am I going to do? is to take that diamond sponge and go ahead and scrape those edges right in the corner and that way it's going to smooth them out so they look a little more professional, so as you can see the edge is a lot smoother and it almost looks like a cut from the factory, so that's what you want when it comes to doing the corners.

I also like to use these shims because I can't fit my leveling system in that back corner that acts as my spacer, so I have to use one of these that acts as a spacer. A little trick I use. I like to take a pencil and clean between the grout joints as I go because you don't want the mortar to harden because it's hard to remove over and over again. I have found that a simple pencil works great because it is made of wood and will not splinter the tile and then while you are placing the leveling system the spacer needs to be placed. behind the tile before the adhesive sets overnight if you return in the morning and also remove excess adhesive from the wall.

A great example of this is a wall on my right side. I

finish

ed it the day before. on the left and as you can see their spacers went behind the tiles and the dried gray wall adhesive was scraped off because again you don't want it to harden overnight. I know what you're thinking, tiling a shower is a lot of work and tiling a shower is a great way to give your bathroom an instant facelift, plus it's a relatively easy DIY project that most homeowners can do. board for a few weekends, but why stop there? Laying tiles on your bathroom floor is a great way to add value to your home and give it a nice luxurious spa feel, of course tiles can be an investment so be sure to do your research and choose the right tile for you. suit your budget and style.

I'm curious to see who has done a tiled shower. before, so if you could leave a comment below if you have or not, and if you haven't, would you be willing to do one as a DIY project now that the first row of tiles in the next row will be very similar, but I'm going to show you how to stagger it and then we're going to fly with this mosaic, so what I do is I go ahead and put my mosaic in there without the skim coat and I'm going to go and take my carpenter's pencil and then just mark it so that like this know that when I put the decal on the wall I don't cover my two reference lines that I made and now, if you remember, this is the line that we took for that.

We just started and then for this one, we're going to line up with our next line, so if you remember correctly, if we line up with this line that gives us the perfect center grout joint that goes right into the wall, now that you know what. I'm going to do in the next row, let's do it if you would like to know something before you start learning how to make mosaics. I wish I knew that the mosaics are not perfect. There are ties on these 24 inch tiles, so they never leave. to line up perfectly with each other and even some of the 12 inch tiles may also have slight bows and don't expect every tile to be a hundred percent perfect square, it won't happen many times, they are very square. but there are some that are not a system that has worked well for me in the past.

If I have a helper, I'll just stay in the shower, lay the tiles on the wall, take the measurements, and hand them to a helper. that goes and cuts the towel in the garage or somewhere where the water won't damage the floor, then they will bring the towel to me and I will place it on the shower wall, always check each row with my level. just to make sure nothing needs to be adjusted as I go and as of now it looks like we're setting up pretty well so I don't need to adjust anything but I'll always check it with a level and also make sure that if you're going to do a shelf on the next row, which is what I'm going to do here, have your leveling system be out of the way of the shelf, so about 10 inches should be enough on each side here so you can I know you don't have to use a leveling system like the one you've seen me use.

You can just use a spatula as a ruler and line them up. I'll show you how to do it later in this video. There are several options when it comes to shelves, you can get pre-made shelves or you can make your own, so I decided to make my own, so I'm going to take this two foot slab and make two shelves out of it. and if you are using 12 inch tiles you can do one shelf per tile, now is a good time to use any tile that has chipped edges. There's a sliver here and a sliver here, so this will be a perfect slab to use for shelving. and the first thing I'm going to do is measure nine and one eighth from this edge and make a mark and then measure on this edge nine and one eighth make a mark as well and then I'm going to measure nine down and one eighth make a mark and then measure this edge nine and one eighth and now I'm going to turn on the wet saw and cut down these two marks first as always I recommend wearing safety glasses and hearing protection when using the wet saw saw porcelain is much harder than ceramics, so a wet saw is almost essential.

A ceramic tile cutter is only designed for ceramics. Now what we have to do is get close to that other nine and one eighth mark and cut it square as well. You are more or less making a nine and one eighth square mosaic. Now what I have to do is cut a straight line from this point to this point or from this point to this point, either one is fine, just take the tile and right here is a little one. notch in the guide here, so I'm just going to place the tile right in that notch and then line up the tip with the saw blade to make sure it goes right where I need it and that it looks good, so now I'm just going to cut this tile down, I'm just going to take each piece of the tile and butter it like I'm going to install it on the actual wall and I'm just going to take my notched trowel and just spread it out evenly and we're going to do the same thing on this tile and now I'm just going to Put these two together like you're making a tile sandwich, you're going to make a mess doing this, I'll warn you. ahead of time, but I'm just going to make sure that they have a good joint, just clean up around the edges, so I want to make sure that the face of them here is lined up almost perfectly because we're going to put a facing over here so you can see that It's nice and flat.

Now I'm going to set this aside and let it dry. The shelf has been drying for 24 hours as you can see we had a good start here but now we need to look at the front with tile so first I'm going to get a width so if we take a look here we have about five eighths of an inch . I always add an eighth of an inch to this measurement, so it will be three-quarters. face one inch wide for this tile shelf, now I need to get a point to point measurement. If we take a look here, we have about 12 and 7 8, so I'm going to add a quarter inch because it's actually going to spread out. just a little bit more on each side, I'm going to put a little bevel on it.

Now just cut it like a normal cut, slow and steady so you can put a bevel on these ends. What I do is I go ahead and turn the I saw it and I held it there and I cut it out and I just have to estimate because this doesn't have to be perfect now if it was an exposed edge or something like that I would definitely use a guide when free handing a cut like that, go very slow, as you can see, we have a simple bevel there and it will be hidden behind the tile anyway.

Now I'm going to install the face that I made on the shelf, so I'm just going to set it up. I put it right up against this old scaffolding just to hold it up so I can work on it. In fact, I'm going to use what's called tub and tile silicone. It has mold-resistant properties, so it is designed for areas that constantly have water. So what I'm going to do first is go ahead and apply it right on the face of the shelf. I'm going to take the piece of towel that we cut earlier and it's going to stick here, so if you're wondering, hey.

Does the silicone stay on as an adhesive? It actually works pretty well, so the reason I use silicone is because it gives it a nice clean look from the top of the joint because the thin layer will make it look a little rough and you'll see it like this. I always use silicone here so I'm going to place it on the shelf like I was going to install a tile somewhere else but I'm just using silicone so I'm going to move it into place even up and now this is where there's little difference compared to where you do most things.

I'm going to leave it down slightly so that we can make sure that the water runs off the shelf and doesn't get trapped behind the face and now we're going to Let this sit for 24 hours before touching it. I'm going to install the shelf in this corner like this, to do that I have to put a thin layer on the edges, so I'm just going to get a thin layer. and place it over the edge, now that I have the thin edges, I'm going to take two of those plastic shims that I showed you before and I'm going to prepare them because I'm going to use them here to level this, I'm going to go ahead and put it in place there and don't worry about all the excess thinset because we're going to get to that here in a minute so we just need to make sure that we're tight against the wall now I'm going to put a shim on the thick side which is the side eight inches, stick it under one side here, take the other wedge, put it under the other side that's closer to me and now we have to tackle this.

Back up, take my little level and check that we're perfectly level from end to end. This side needs to come up slightly, so I'm going to put that wedge in a little bit more and now like you. I can see we're sitting pretty now I need to check to see if there's a drain coming down from this point to this point, so we don't want any water pooling up here. I'm going to take two shims and place them together. That way, when you slide it in, there should be enough of a wedge to move it to where there is a small drop.

Now all I'm going to do is wipe off the excess thin film on it and get ready to towel dry it. what the final installation looks like as you can see we are level from point to point and if we place our level so you can see there is a slight slide from the back corner of the wall and as you can see we have a shim this shim corner in this corner and two in the back to help give it that little bit of slope. I'm going to show you how I cut around the shelf.

What I do is get a tile that is cut lengthwise as if the shelf were not there. There I'm going to put it right on top and then I'm going to look at my joint here, where it looks really good, so it looks even compared to what the other joints look like now that I'm going to mark up. about an eighth of an inch from the edge of that shelf, so I know that's the length that I need to go out, so what I'm going to do is slide this tile next to that shelf to get my height and my height will be just right an eighth of an inch above that and now I'm going to cut this to have a nice cut around that shelf when I install this tile around the shelf, it's going to be done a little bit differently.

I have to use a shim here, so what I'm going to do is go ahead and install it like I would on the other tile, except when it comes up I'm going to have to shim it into place, so of course we'll move it to its place like we do with any other. First I want to take a tile and shim it because clearly we don't have a spacer underneath because we had to cut it for the shelf so after it's in place it looks really good we double check and make sure we're level and flush with the other one, if not, we would have to shim it here or shim it here so that it comes out right there, but it looks good, so I just want to show you what you're going to have.

To make around the shelves, I have to make a square cut right in the middle of this tile. This is for the shower valve, so to do this, what I have to do is loosen the head of this wet saw and then lift it up. and I'm going to make a plunge cut, so what I do is I just line it up with the marks that I made on it and it's right where I need it to be, so what I'm going to do is I just turn on the saw and Plunge When I make a plunge cut like this I usually make a cut along the line first and then do the dip, as you can see there is a line that is cut right in the middle of that tile.

I cut the square for the shower valve and now I'm on my own. I'm going to peck at it until it comes out and as you can see, it broke relatively clean now I just have to clean up these edges, that's all. I want to dry fit this tile over the shower valve just to make sure it fits every time you make a complex cut like that that's a smart idea ok looks like I got really lucky it looks like around the shower valve looks great and around the shelf tooIt looks great, so I'm going to go ahead and Install this where it is.

I've got the tile high enough that now I have to start thinking about what I'm doing for a decorative strip and what I'm going to use is this tile and what I'm going to do. is to cut it in half and use it as a decorative strip so what I have to do is take the strips of wood that we started with and move them up where we just stopped the tile that you see behind me because we need to skip because we don't want to have You have to shim each of these mosaic pieces to support the mosaic to continue, just to be clear, you definitely want to make sure that the first ray that is right on top of these boards has dried. for at least 24 hours after I cut the decorative strip, it's going to be five and seven eighths and I want an eighth of an inch space at the top and bottom, so I need to leave this tile six and one eighth now I'm just going to put a level line across and then installed my boards up to that level line flush almost like we started at the bottom, except now we're going to be halfway up the wall.

Mosaics can be made of any material from glass to metal so be sure to check the packaging before applying the grout because the grout can be sanded or not sanded could scratch the glass so you definitely want to be careful before leaving. here last night I put thin coat on top and inside the holes where I removed those boards. It's very important that you make sure that they are airtight so that What I'm going to do is take the waterproofing that I used to waterproof this shower and if you need to watch that video, there's a link in the top right corner of the screen, you can watch it, but I am the one who installs the shower base. and waterproof everything, but what I'm going to do now is take a little bit of that waterproofing and go over every spot that I patched just to make sure it's waterproof because you definitely want to make sure that water doesn't get in behind that. cement board, so just apply a little bit on it and do it on all the spots where you remove the screws on that board.

I'm going to show you how to remove the leveling system. I need more of these wedges to keep climbing the wall. So I'm going to show you now, but there are two ways to do it: you can pull back on this tab and then slide the wedge back and it comes out like this, but you're going to have to break them off anyway, so what? what you really need to do is just take a rubber mallet and then hit it towards the actual spacer, like this, and it just pops up and as you can see behind it, the spacer remains, so now we can grout this and it's going to be hidden, You don't want to see it, so it just comes off.

The plastic is actually relatively fragile and now that we broke it we got our wedges back and can reuse them when I mentioned before that sometimes you have to shimmy them. I had to put shims as you can see right next to each end of the tile here, that's because it was getting a little uneven, so now if you look here, it wasn't much and if we put our level on top. Here you can see we're perfect now so you just have to watch as you go, you might have to do little shims every now and then to get it perfect so the waterproofing sets in and I went ahead and put the adhesive on. on the wall as usual and now what I'm going to do is a little bit different: I'm going to measure to the center of this mosaic, so we're going to go to 11 and 7 8 and make a mark and as you can see we don't have any marks from the to start or reference lines like the ones we did above, so now we know that this mark has to be in the center of this joint, here it gives it the stepped appearance as you have seen and now.

I'm going to go back and forth, butter it up and get ready to stick it on the wall in case you haven't noticed, I put plywood on the bottom of this shower base so I don't damage anything while I'm working and you definitely should too wear knee pads when you're on your knees like this, invest in a good pair and they'll last you a lifetime. Now that they're buttered, we're going to go ahead and glue them in place the difference compared to the other section is that we're going to have to use a ruler to make sure it's all nice and flat, so to just do it let's move it into place now I just need to space the tile correctly from the other tile above it so I can do that.

I just take the leftover spacers we removed to take out the shims we used before and they work great in the exact same space we used. I've been using so I'm going to put them in place and now what I'm going to do is just shim it with the little shims from the shower pan, now that we're shimmed nice and we're spaced evenly there, that looks really good and I'm going to double check with my little spatula that I've been using and another tip, when the bucket of mortar is running low, I usually use the spatula. taking it out it's a lot easier to get to the bottom than using the notched trowel so I'm checking it with the knife and it looks like it's pretty perfect you might get a little bit in there and it looks really good and now I'm going to take these ones that we were using before because we still have space where you can use them next.

Simply continue running the tile in exactly the same way we did above, plus using the method I just showed you. Now it's time to install the mosaic or decorative mosaic, whatever term you use is fine, but long story short, it will fit perfectly here, so there are a couple of things to do to prepare now that this one is relatively thick, so I don't have to use any kerdi strip to fill this in now, if this was very thin, that thin glass is the one you have to look at a lot of times, you will have to fill this with the kerdi strip to make it flush. with the tile, this one will probably countersink a little bit, but it's not enough that I'm going to worry about, so a lot of times these tiles will go as far as where you can cut them down the center and then this piece will overlap this piece evenly, so if we measure down, the center is right here, so the first thing we need to do is go ahead and cut these tiles now, as you can see, this is designed to fit perfectly together.

So, that will give us a good appearance. Now the first thing I do is cut the back of the square, so I'm going to run this through the wet saw and remove it from here down so that we have a starting point when we go to install it. I'm going to install this decorative tower starting right here and something that's done a little bit differently compared to the other tiles is that I don't put thinset on the back of this strip, I just put thinset on the wall, so you just have to take it and place it wherever you want nice and easy, then I want to take this float and just press it into that slim set.

I'm going to take a shim and then space it appropriately like I said before about an eighth of an inch after you put it where you want it always happens with something and this is one of those little shims and just wipe that thin layer between those pieces of tile because it definitely doesn't You want to clean that up. Later, the next one will just join that one and now I'm just going to look at the space so something like that looks good and the same thing just sets there and you do exactly the same thing. just shim it and move it into place first.

Now I'm going to take my float and just press it into the space here, clean up any thin sets sticking out, if any, and then I'm going to take. my flute and just press it one more time and continue that process until you get to the end before I do the mosaic on the sides of the shower, first I need to put the bullnose on and if you're not familiar with The bullnose just finishes the edge of the shower, if you're going to use drywall, it gives it a nice look, so to do that I'm going to have to put up a dummy piece, so to speak, and I'm not going to set it up.

This in place, but it's only going to support my bullnose row. The reason is because I still have to put in a floor and I'll have to be able to cut it out of the floor and I can't do that. obviously if it's installed I'm going to put it in place and then I'm going to take one of the spacers that came out of the spacers that I had put on the tile and I'm going to glue the tip of the torus on and I'm going to set it up like I did with all the other tiles and as you can see, we're on drywall, so you can use thin drywall glue and I'm just going to rinse it off with the tr with the mosaic that is. in the shower and that looks great and then I'll just take another spacer and put it right in the middle like this and then I'll do the same thing here and now what I do to make sure that the rounded nose stays in place and tight against the spacers , I just take blue painter's tape, tape it down, and pull it into the shower with just a little bit of pressure so that way it stays in place.

Now do it on each spacer and if anything thin comes out of the side like you see, I make sure to clean it up because you don't want the drywall to harden to continue the run. I just use another spacer, stack it and keep going until I reach the ceiling, the rounded tip is now clean. to the ceiling on this side and also to the ceiling on this side and what I ended up doing on this mosaic was take it to the corner and cut it square like you see here, I took the wedge and shimmed it where I needed it and, As you can see, when I uploaded this tile I had to cut it for the shower head, but I'll show you something that might work better for you instead of cutting it like that because I got lucky.

It came to a grout line where I could do that, but that doesn't always happen of course, and then I ran the slab up to the ceiling and some people might have wanted to put the slab up to the ceiling, where it's not possible. you have a cut piece so however you want to do it I'm just showing you what I did and also if we take a look down here whenever we finish setting up we can remove that initial bull nose and then cut here once we have placed the floor instead, if you find yourself in the situation, we have a cutout for the shower head.

I recommend getting this diamond hole saw made by kcep. It's one inch 3 8 and will be the perfect size for that. I'll put a link in the description below in this video, but this works really well because all you have to do is take this part of the sticker and it's very sticky, obviously, but you're going to peel it off if you used it before and it's double expensive. and it sticks like this, take it off and it will stick right where you need to hold it, then you put water inside this and then you just take the hole saw that it comes with and you cut the hole so you just take it hooks, it hooks to your drill, you know, cut it no problem, so that's what I usually use if I have to cut for that shower head, if you want to know how I'm going to grout and caulk this shower. watch this video it will help you