M1078 LMTV - Update #3 Fuel filter change, Oil change, LED headlight upgrade, & more!

Alright, I replaced both

fuel

filter

s pretty easily, did what I wanted to do, put some miles on it and burned off most of the old diesel, mixed it with some good stuff again, that

filter

was full of junk, it was actually that full . the little water separator drain underneath, yes the hose is not attached at the moment. It was completely clogged with stuff when I went to drain it, but everything is fine, it was easy. I took it for a test drive after I also did the oil

change

. and I forgot to press the dipstick down, so oil splashed everywhere.

The oil filter has been

change

d. It looks like it leaked a little on the test ride, but it's in there as tight as I can get it. It should seal itself. The sprinkler ended. working someone pointed out to me in the facebook group and in the youtube comments that you can take like a little needle and stick it inside the sprayer and adjust it and I did and it works so the part number is dorman 9024-5504. It will work if you are missing these. I turned off the

headlight

s and will replace them with some LEDs. The

headlight

s here were very dim because at some point someone put 24 volt headlights in here, so obviously these are 12 volts and it was like that.

They aren't generating enough power, which is why they were so dim. These are the headlights that I am going to place. They are just some Chinese LED bulbs. I think I bought them on prime days on Amazon, like most other people have shown me. It comes with this type of connector and then they made a wiring harness to go to a jeep, but I cut the wires and used the old pigtails from the 24 volt lamps so I could make my own little harness to plug them into. White is a low light. high light blue black earth I don't remember the numbers on the top of my hand but okay let's see if it works working on flushing and filling the coolant today, dividing up the last bit that spills out, I'll fill it with the garden hose, a Once finished, I have some of these number one things in the country, but I don't know, I won't do what the instructions say, I'll actually go out and drive and use two of these since it's on a big engine, it doesn't come out as dirty, but There was mostly water in there so I'm going to do that and then I have to put that cap additive in while I wait for the engine to warm up as part of this. all loose like they won't stay still, I have three replacements for them, it's piece number three, six, zero, four, zero, zero, like Kaiser pieces, all good, the instructions in the download, say: if you want to make a deep cleaning, drive for about three. to six hours, but I'll run into town, we'll go get some food and stuff and I should warm it up enough for the chain to do a good job, it would still feel better, but the water came out clear the first time. which I put it in and washed it, then added the rinse and turned it off, gave it a good 40 miles of driving at full speed with the heat on and what not really is rusty color but you see it's dirty so pretty good work, yes, that's it. what the coolant looks like, kind of like sandy water, so a lot of debris was removed in the video, there is a slight shine on the top.

I also used this bucket when I did the oil change, so there is no oil in the coolant. that's just from this particular bucket, one thing I didn't mention about my oil change also was that the drain plug had no metal parts on it so that's a good sign, I'm going to put this Cat Elc long life coolant in right , so everything. It went pretty well with the coolant change. You can see it's the new red guy. I drove it quite a bit. I need to spend

more

time talking in the Facebook group. It seems that I had fewer entrances and exits than what is in it. uh tm, for the capacities, I'm about two and two gallons short, but I'm wondering if there was still that much stuck in the system or if I have some air and it's still going to burp, but I'll make sure to keep an eye out.

I noticed when I was pumping the cab up and down that there seemed to be a lot of air in there, so I'm going to use some of this hapko aw iso 32 hydraulic oil. I bought two gallons of this to have on hand. it's off amazon this is the recommended stuff to enter here according to the tm, when i check the oil here it basically shows nothing it's low i don't know what type is in there or whatever but i'm just going to top it off so Hopefully by hand it will work and then I'll probably put all the new fluid in there when I actually do the rebuild kit on this.

Now that it's full I'm going to see if the cockpit goes up better, this is something I wanted to see next, I watched a video someone else made and a small cam piece is supposed to slide up and down once you put it on. cockpit tilts all the way forward and makes this lock into place and then I guess when you pump it. up, so I'm going to spray it a bunch and play with it and see if I can get it to work. You're supposed to notice why I was fiddling with the cab lift lock.

It looks like this lower body support is gone. I'm curious to know if it's gone. On the other hand, I'll have to look into how to fix it, so I had some oil or what I thought was an oil leak in the transmission and I just realized why I had the cab up and something was squirting out of here. , so it is a hydraulic system. leak that would make sense as to why it was empty up there. I didn't realize this. I must have thought the moisture was due to that so I found out exactly where the leak is on this and I actually have a rebuild kit for this so I could be doing that well to rebuild the cockpit latch obviously I need the Cabin latch rebuild kit. uh, some small snap ring pliers.

I had to use an adjustable one because all the nuts were a different size underneath, but the top bolt part is an 11 16. My impact To do this, a couple of different picks to remove and put on the new o-rings and wipers, I had a screwdriver flat, a small rod, a soft hammer to get some stubborn things out, my hydraulic line connection was 9 16. That's something that varies, so it might not match yours and I don't say this when I do the work, but a thing to note is that the bolt under where the 90 degree hydraulic connector comes in cannot be fitted with that connector in place, so to get that bolt out completely or put it back in, it needs to be out of the way, so that you need to loosen it and remove it, first put the bolt when you reinstall everything and then put the hydraulic connector. and tighten it well.

I took everything off and I have my rebuild kit here, but the first thing is going to be taking this whole thing apart. I think it's pretty simple. I saw another person on YouTube who redid theirs and they did it with it on the truck, I decided to just take it off, okay, I took it all apart, it's kind of laid out, you know, there's still a few

more

pieces in here and stuff, there's a little windshield wiper there, this does not come with the rebuild kit spring. Clean this all up, we've got the O-ring right here and this was probably the one that was leaking along with this one, those are internal ones, the black one that's still intact was there and the orange ones in that little spot there.

You can see the black right there, so what I need to do now is clean this all up really good, probably use some brake cleaner and remove all the O-rings and I'm going to put everything in and get it ready. To put it back together properly, I cleaned everything and here are all my new O-rings, this was completely missing and this is the one that was completely deteriorated. He wasn't sure which direction he entered. I didn't think about it when I took it out, I didn't realize it was shaped like a cone or whatever, there's the hole that's going to go like this, outline it with the little wiper stamp, now I'm going to put it back together, okay, so it looks like that I'm not going to do it. be able to put this back together successfully this kit i bought this o ring also this was the new wiper it's thicker so it wouldn't fit properly where it was supposed to see how much thicker that o ring is I couldn't push the latch pin in and I tried to hit it with a rubber mallet and that's what it did, it just broke the o-ring, this o-ring, I mean look it's not even close, this is a piece of the old inner pin o-ring and this is the one that came in my kit 0.105 and it's there tight 0.133 also tight so it's substantially thicker which will reduce the inside diameter of the hole and the outside diameter of what it was supposed to be You can see I put it back together, but when I tried to push it in, it did just fine so I ended up putting it back in.

I used an o-ring from my o-ring kit that was a little smaller than it probably should have been, but after putting it all together it works, I raised and lowered the cab and where I noticed a leak was if you had it in the raised position and you applied a good amount of pressure with the cylinder all the time. very widespread as it is now when I heard it bubbling and it would have leaked, it doesn't anymore, I don't want to say it won't fail prematurely because it's not the best o-ring, but it's there and it's working for the moment. be and I'm going to work with that eBay seller and see what the deal is, but at least I completed it and I was able to get my cab back down and I have the truck stuck in the middle of the driveway, I got my load out of the port. -ring kit, this is the one I used on the internal number 114 a 5 8 3 3 16 3 30 seconds which worked and also looks like 2 1 6 would be the big plunger, it's a 1 and 1 8 and uh for a thickness of 1 in 3 8 1 8 so I guess if you have one of these instead of buying the full kit, if your wipers are reusable, you can rebuild it with the port charging kit.

Let's hope this project goes better than the previous one, but this. The small U-shaped oil line that goes to the

fuel

pump is a common failure point on these engines, so I'm going to change it to a flexible stainless steel braided line like most people do. Here are the pieces I'm going to use. a little six inch stainless steel braided line star performance part four six four zero dash six ones are right angle and one is straight um these are just links on eBay. I'll put more details in the description about these and a bunch of other people.

I've done reviews on these, which will be 18 millimeters to disconnect the existing line and then 9 16 is for all the fittings here. You will also need a 5 8 wrench socket and a 9 16 socket, I don't know. If you're going to listen to me over the engine, it doesn't look like there are any leaks. Well, I just took it like five or six miles for a couple of minutes to get it up to temperature, no leaks coming out of there, it's good. I don't know if you could hear it on the video, see that little piece of air or whatever was there.

Noticed the last two times I turned off the truck when it was hot, it was sucking or expelling air and I couldn't figure out what was coming from me. I thought it was coming from the radiator cap right there, but it's not. I put my finger in there and I don't really know what it is. I'm going to have to investigate and tighten this nut because I realized when it was. Using this today it was leaking a little bit, I don't know if that will help, so one of the first things I did to get out here and look was to see if I could put CTI and I don't know where all that. it's there man, I don't think it's good, I didn't get what I wanted until the end, I made some progress, I probably found more problems than I solved, man I really messed up with that and I just couldn't do it.

It does what it's supposed to do, so I just soaked it with pb blaster. I'll work on that another day. I think that will conclude this

update

and hopefully I'll have more next time and have less problems.