M1078 LMTV - Update #4 Air hydraulic pump rebuild w/ improvement

Moving on to the next projects um, I've never taken the spare tire off so we did it, it goes up and down, I topped it off, I inspected it, it needs to be replaced, but it's a spare, no cylinder leaks so far. It didn't get stuck, that's a good number since I removed it. The first thing I'm going to do is the air over

hydraulic

operation that needs to be rebuilt. I will do that. Here are the tools I used to do the

rebuild

project. as a soft-blow mallet, I used a pair of curved needle nose and snap ring pliers, that of a small flat head internal type screwdriver, you may need a couple of different ones, a three-sixteenths allen wrench, a wrench five and thirty second allen, a three and thirty second allen wrench on these. the smaller ones, I use both the standard type and the T-handle type, you can get away with just using this type of half inch wrench 9 16 quarter inch wrench 3 8 drive ratchets I used 5 16 in the socket from a quarter inch to a half inch and 11 16 I used a suction cup to get all the old

hydraulic

fluid out, some silicone silicone grease for O rings and, uh, brake cleaning.

You'll probably need more than one thing to clean brakes, another thing you don't need, but I have these little pieces. washing machine that was helpful this is the

rebuild

kit spx power team repair kit review 14 part numbers 300140 there are more things in here that I will probably use it comes with broken parts and stuff that sucks but I should be able to figure it out None of these are labeled and I don't have idea of ​​what this little glue would be used for. I was looking at this foam wonder and what would be where the vent goes, but there's like a ceramic vent on this one, so it's not applicable. but it has the spring, the big case and everything on a material safety data sheet that is actually in a spec, it should be a safety data sheet, but anyway, this drawing will probably come and help try to find out what goes where.

Start by removing this half inch cover, there are nuts on the bottom on this side, one of mine looks like it's missing and there are some half inch bolts under this 9 16 for the airline, both hydraulic hoses, I'm going to tape them up adhesive and label them. here's the return and the pressure ok I took everything out so I just have to start cleaning everything it's really disgusting because of all the leaks and stuff it worked fine I took it all apart and placed it so I can remember it and you can. Look here, that's all a busted gasket or whatever you want to call it, there's some of this left that goes between the spring and everything else looks to be in pretty decent condition, you know, some of these o-rings and stuff are crushed and I'm not going to go as far as taking this piece apart, they call it an air handler or something like that or here, but I think what O-rings and stuff that you see I'll probably replace them.

Looking at it, these are the two that got blown up. The other thing that confused me was what this was. I was thinking maybe it was some kind of glue, but it's a lubricant and it's supposed to be applied, they call it. puppet right here and you can actually see some of that old lubrication built up there, but I'm going to clean, I'm going to clean this all up real good, it was on the back of the material safety data sheet, it says apply the grease to the doll while I'm putting it together, if there's any important notes or anything, I'll follow it to the end, the way it goes is this bigger one, where what's left of this is with the spring hitting it and then in there I could see that it still I haven't cleaned it.

There is an internal spring ring. Take out that snap ring. You put it on with the flared side going in there and you put the clasp around it and that keeps it in place so when you take that clasp. sounds this comes out look and then this one that you can see is all raised that's where this one goes like this to clean it better but this is how it goes well so I wanted to be clear, I showed it before, but when you're putting this piece together, look how this part has a little flare that goes in and it's going to be tricky to get it in there because you have to get it over where there's like a little lip, so I'm going to use like a little flat head screwdriver and go ahead and get it in there and I've also lubricated it pretty well .

I'm going to do it again, okay, this is all reassembled, it's not very difficult to do, one thing that disappointed me. In the rebuild kit, the O-rings with a little groove for each side of this cylinder, it only comes with one inside the rebuild kit and I thought maybe it was missing and I looked at the instructions and it said it only comes with one. in the kit, I don't know why when there are two, so there was a paper gasket that seems to fit around this, but that's not going to work for this, so it could be a variation of this because you know this. it could be used on anything, the other thing only had one, it was this gasket that goes around the two points up here, there was only one of these, granted, they can be reused, there's really nothing wrong with them, that's what I did , I reused one.

Of them, by the way, this is the meeting I was talking about and that goes over here. A little note to help. This is the worn one I talked about that goes to where the retaining ring is when you push it in. The help I noticed is that you can't see it on this one, but this flange went in like it was supposed to. I was pressing with my finger and then using a small flat head to move the edge into place. uh and a little bit of o-ring grease helped uh there's no better way to explain it just when you're doing it have some common sense and don't destroy this when you put it in because chances are this is what's wrong or the other is a big one. around the spring is what's wrong with yours now I just have to put it back in the truck and hook it up man I'm glad I didn't run out there and put it together because I just realized I forgot to put this long in The joint that goes come in here, so I'll have to take it apart and put it back on.

I'm not going to do that on camera, please don't forget to do it and if you realize it before you put it on. Put it back in the truck okay I plugged it all back together like the gasket in the rebuild kit is supposed to be instead of cork like it was here it was rubber and it moved a little but you just used the bolts. I went to fish it out, uh, sucked up all the old stuff, cleaned it up a little, it really wasn't that dirty and added the stuff from my last video to top it off, but I also put in some of these lucas I had. stop the leak and a booster, I don't know if it was necessary, but maybe on some of the cylinders and such it will help lubricate it as it goes.

I'm not going to put the lid back on because I want to see what it does when I try it but, yeah, let's check it out. I'm here the next day. I had some problems after putting it together. The first thing that happened was that the phone turned off and I couldn't continue recording. Second, I plugged it in. The air tanks on the truck were completely full and I

pump

ed the thing until the tanks were empty and there was no movement when lowering the cab, I filled it again, same thing, so I took it apart again and read a bunch online and stuff like that and I was seeing if I messed something up, uh, check to make sure everything was okay, put it back together and then the most common problem I saw was the hydraulic lines were reversed there, I changed them just to see if it made a difference.

Didn't I change them back and then

pump

this once then try it again like I originally had it and it started working so I don't know if by any chance I just bled all the air out if needed? do this first or if pumping it incorrectly it just bled a little air with the lines reversed but it works anyway every once in a while a little after pressure it pulls that pin which is what it's supposed to do, very happy, the only thing. What I didn't do was plug that back up because there's hydraulic fluid everywhere and I want to make sure it's not going to leak and I can also take some degreaser and just splash it on because there's also everything underneath from the leaks that I had them and they are disgusting and I try to clean them, so one of the reasons I think they tend to fail quite a bit is the fact that they dry out the seals on the inside.

This is what comes inside the repair kit and I noticed this part number 11. and I suspected this before even opening this part number 11 is an air lubricator, so I managed to find this one, although it is a little big for about 15 dollars, it's new and old and has a nice sturdy metal bowl and then I'll need some adapters because it's a quarter inch pipe. This is actually the truck connector. This is where the air is connected. This is what went to the hydraulic pump. That's a quarter of an inch. So I have two sleeves and then a couple of nipples of different lengths.

And I'm going to try to get this in line and fill it with the hydraulic fluid to lubricate that side and for a little more effort I should probably never need to rebuild it again, so this is what I came up with. with it installed it looks like it will work, although one problem I didn't think of is that this little adjustable knob for how much oil goes in when air travels through it is higher than where the cover goes so you can go In any direction. What I'm thinking of doing is just getting something to raise the cover because it doesn't matter, I could have used a bunch of washers or I could have used, for example, a 90 nipple, another 90 nipple and just had it be lower. which may be the most appropriate, but it will work like this, so we already started testing it, go ahead and increase it, everything is doing what it's supposed to do and you can see a little bit of oil extracted and fed to the only one.

What I'm not sure about this is how exactly you're supposed to adjust it, but I'll look it up from the manufacturer. I think there's a little bubble on that side and I have it set to one that I assume is the lowest. So I went and looked in the parts bin and found a couple of 90's and a coupler should be able to put the shield on now, all good, fits well and probably worse on the tube but you can easily look at it and see if there is oil. and you can reach down here and grab it to refill it without needing to remove this.

One thing I noticed I had to do on mine. I was wondering if it should have been like this. I added washers between the plate and the armor. uh there was like a mark on the inside that I noticed when I took it apart and what it was is there's a little fit that it was pretty tight against, but great, all set.