Will It Run?! 1984 International 484 Tractor | Part 1

What's up guys? This is the first

part

of a series of videos on how to get this

tractor

back into operation. This is a

1984

International 484. My dad bought it in 2006 and paid $6,000 for it. This

tractor

has a 45 horsepower

international

d179 diesel engine, it's a 3 cylinder, it has a bucket, um, but it's not here right now, we'll put it back in if we can get this working again, this is the tractor that I grew up with, there's a There are a lot of memories of it never wanting to start and stuff like that and always having fuel problems and all that, so let's see if we can fix it.

This engine is currently blocked. I think the first cylinder is here. locked in uh just because this was uncovered and I guess the water has been coming in here dripping and going into the first cylinder. I hope all the valves are closed, that would be better for us than if they were open just letting water into the combustion chamber, a couple more things about this, it has a new starter motor and, yes, that's really all that's new Here, everything else needs some work, like the radiator cap or the radiator is broken, so that's not going to work, I need to make sure. that the fuel injection pump is working properly and not, you know, clogged with debris, um, so yeah, the first thing is we're going to try to get it up and running and then we'll take care of everything else, here's my The birthday gift from my wife to me.

It is very nice to be able to have everything ready and organized and within reach. I think it's 16mm, but I don't have a 16mm, so Chris, a wrench. These are already loose. I'm going to get them out of here and then get these three off the injection pump. If you look at the other side of this intake manifold, you'll see how all the rust builds up toward this end. and that side is cylinder number one, so you look here and you can see a lot of rust over here, not as much over here, so I think most of the water got in there, so let's pop the head out and see what this manifold looks like.

Exhaust is connected to the downpipe. I really don't want to try to undo these bolts just because they'll probably break, so I'll probably be able to remove them like this and just walk away. It's like that, that way I can take the head off because I don't really need to do anything with the exhaust manifold. Okay, let's take out the coolant line and I guess hit the valve cover. Then look at all that rust looking. On that horrible W I was removing the coolant tube. I noticed that the Valkor is really loose, so let's take it off and see what it looks like inside.

Well, could you look at that? We have the intake open and the exhaust open and both are closed. on cylinder number one, so that's pretty good, hopefully you didn't let too much water into the combustion chamber S uh, so let's go ahead and try to remove the heads, that's not too bad, so usually with the heads you want to come out in the spiral pattern we're going to have to lift these rockers because I've got bolts under these rockers okay I took out all the pusher arms and the bolts and head bolts and everything um so I think we're ready to start. go ahead and pry this off I think I'm completely free, let's try it, maybe I can lift it up and just as I expected, cylinder number one is really clean, they're all really clean, honestly the side walls don't look like that.

Bad, well, it's good news. I guess take a look at the cylinder head on top. Let me turn it around. There is cylinder number one. Both valves were closed. There is no rust. The second and the third. Remember we had the exhaust open on this side. The entrance open. on this side and uh there's a little bit of rust but nothing that won't be cleaned off. I don't really see any reason why it doesn't flip, uh, why it doesn't spin, so I guess I'll go. Go ahead and try to put a wrench on that crankshaft pulley and see if I can get it to move, this is the crankshaft pulley, unfortunately it's not one big bolt, it's three small bolts, so I can't put much weight on it. wrench that could break the bolt, take out the gasket which looks pretty good.

I don't see any leaks at all, you usually look right here to see if there's any kind of crossover, it looks perfect, I can't even get my wrench on the pulley because that grease fitting is in the way, man that thing doesn't want to move. I don't want to go too far and break that bolt, see if I can figure something else out. I had some ATF left over from when I was working on the Jeep. I'm going to pour a little bit into the combustion chambers here and see if I can free these pistons or what I might try is get a new rear battery because it's a new starter motor and I'll do that.

Let's see if I can hit it with the starter and maybe it

will

be enough to free it, we'll see. I'll put in some ATF anyway. Hopefully that

will

seep past the rings and free it up a bit. Lubricate In the meantime, I'm going to try changing this battery, this thing is totally dead. I've got a somewhat loaded one in there, we'll see if that's enough to fix this, hopefully, all the electrical work that you know for the key and Everything we see may have to be done manually from the starter. Yeah, I just realized the starter motor wires aren't even connected, so I'll use jumper cables and connect them.

Let's see if it hits, no, well, I can't get the starter to turn, so I'll have to remove it. I think I messed it up off the tractor, look what's going on. I removed all those bolts that were there. It's a pain because you can't get anything in there, so I hope this goes ahead and comes out, come on now, like I said, this starter motor isn't supposed to be very old, because my brother-in-law had this on the tractor in Try to start it and I never did anything with it in the past, so this should work.

Now I assume these are ground and then this is the hot side and then you apply voltage here, activate the solenoid and then put positive power here. which then goes into the engine, so I'm not exactly sure, but let's see if I can get it to fire off the tractor. I can't get the starter to turn and I can't get the solenoid to activate right I mean. What are the chances of both being bad being so new? So I'm really confused because I think normally what you do is you connect ground to this outside and then this would be the hot wire from the battery, this would be the engine positive and then this would be the solenoid positive, so you put power to this power and it will click on the solenoid, then you will pull out the plunger and then here on this side this would be your positive, this would be your negative, but when it does it just Sparks does nothing but cause the same thing for this if I ground this and positive to this tab, just Sparks that's all.

I don't understand, maybe I'm missing something simple or I'm just stupid. Okay, so I think the starter just doesn't work, it's bad, and I took out one of the bolts and man, could you look at that covered in rust? I mean, there's a good chance they're both just rusty and blocked. so I'm going to sit here and take this thing a

part

to see if I can, you know, maybe free it up or something, I don't know, but I'd hate to have to get a new starter. Here you can see the old one. versus the new one that was there, which apparently isn't any good, but honestly, this one looks better than that one internally, but I'm going to try to take this apart to see if I can't clean it up and get it. to work, so these brushes are completely rusted, they don't even move.

I mean, just look at that and this isn't too bad. I can clean it easily. I think the problem is that these brushes can't rest against this. wheel here so honestly if I just clean this all up and make these brushes move freely and add a little bit of grease and stuff here you should be able to work this is weird so these go to the springs and all and each one broke. I don't know if you can see that, but I broke them all. These are all the old ones that are still intact, so I'll probably remove them, clean them, and throw them into this one.

Oops, but I have all the brushes. so I can probably clean this and lubricate it, clean this and put everything back together, so yeah, okay, I cleaned everything pretty good, it was pretty rough, it left most of the copper exposed and then I had to clean all of this. I don't know if it's white. I don't know if white lithium grease is the right thing to use on this, but who cares, it's just grease, so now it's time to put it all together. I already have it. I'm going to put it back together, I just need to tighten this up and then before I mess with the solenoid I'm going to see if it works.

It's time for the Moment of Truth to come ashore. Well, here we go, it's working. I need to get this little one. The collar is pushed all the way in, come on, it's working, it's fine. Come on, it's okay. I put everything back together. I'm going to do a final test to make sure everything is working and then we'll put it on the tractor. Perfect, okay. I can't really see very well, but I have a black wire that goes to the trigger wire for the positive solenoid on the hot side of the solenoid and then to ground there on the back of the starter.

Let me pull this. in case it turns around I don't want this key here okay and get this all my ATF has been drained past the ring so I'm hoping things will free up so let's see what the starters will do to that doesn't work. I didn't move it at all, it just stayed stuck. I'm going to try turning this key a little more and see if it moves, man. He just doesn't want to move. I'm really scared. I'm going to do it. Break that, break one of the screws down there. I have the starter connected.

I'm going to pull this and hit the starter at the same time. I sat moving just a hair. Keep trying. I don't know how well you'll pull it off. I can see it, but I see that new line right there, that's what moved down. I just start my Jeep to see if I can give it a little more Jeep juice, we are getting a little more movement it seems like every time I let it sit. for a few seconds and then hits the starter, it moves but if I keep going it doesn't like it, it stops at some point until I let it sit again, it's still moving, very very slow, you kind of see where it was and where.

It's worked its way up to about, I'd say, 38 of an inch, the problem is the starter isn't even hot, the jumper cables are very hot, so I don't have much, uh, I have to let it sit. cool down from time to time, but it's moving. I think I'll keep working and see if it eventually comes loose. It's really bad, which is a shame because number three can still see the polish marks from cylinder number two. It's almost at top dead center, okay, I took the ratchet, tried to reverse with it. I can make it swing back and forth like this with just my hand, so I'll see if I can't keep going. rocking it back and forth and getting it to loosen, yes we even have oil pressure, it smells like melted wires and it's like 8:00 at night but we finally get it to spin freely on its own.

Honestly, I think it was the oil pump because it felt like a fluid was stopping me from turning because it was moving little by little and then, you know, a little bit back and forth. but it would never move completely, so it's a good thing it's moving now. I really don't know what to do next. I guess clean the cylinders and see if this injection pump is, you know, spray the fuel that goes. It'll be for today, uh, and I guess I'll see you guys in the next episode.