Modern Heritage Collection Re-Release - "The Ruby" In-depth Haircutting Tutorial

Hello everyone, I'm Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education at Sambia, today what we want to share with you is a haircut called Ruby and Ruby is part of a

collection

of five haircuts that we created for all of you inspired by what we believe which is really fashionable. during the season, so last season we saw a lot of cuts, we saw shorter underneath, longer on top, what we think is becoming fashionable at the moment is to turn this around, so now what We will see it is longer and more extensive. on the perimeters, more weight on the perimeters and then more of our detachments and shorter areas, focus points here on the surface, I think the '70s vibe, so part of our inspiration was

heritage

, and this really did it.

You'll see as we go through this haircut. It has a lot of

heritage

, so let's start with the section to get started. We took a central vertical section from the forehead to the highest point of the head and then to the center of the back and that was just a preparation for our different. quadrants and then from the high point to the top of the ear and that gives us a guide area to know where the different areas of the head are, so in this first section here on the front what we did is the section that crosses the top of the head from the high points at the top of the ear, we move away about an inch from that center point and then extend up to the recession area because in this haircut we're really looking for a very nice, thick , heavy and wide. bangs, so we wanted to make sure we extended them to those sides as best as we could to isolate them up and out of the way because this will become our separate area later in the haircut.

The second separated area here we made from above. Point out the back corner and what cornerback means guys, for those of you who aren't familiar with Red Khun's PDD cutting system, it's where two head bevels hit me, so from the center back there's kind of flatter area right over here and then you'll see that there's a really, really strong change in direction right at this corner where you're going now that corner is what's known as a corner in Redkin PVD language, that's why you hear me use that terminology, so we go from The highest point is a corner back and it's just above that vertical roundness of the head and then here to the center of the back right at the highest point of the occipital.

You know it's a really important part, so make sure you don't drop this past. the occipital and I'll tell you why as we go through the cut, the separate area product is not an option, it's an absolute necessity, so let's first talk about the products that we prepare the head with because we are working with a razor that we wanted. Working with some products that slip a little bit when you work with a razor, that's our biggest tip is to make sure there's something in the hair that allows the razor to glide through the hair flawlessly.

To do that, we chose Redken satin. We are 0-2 and Diamond Doyle, we made about a nickel size of satin material and then I put two or three drops of diamond oil to add even more moisture and more slip, I combined it with my hands and applied it to the scalp . to the ends on wet hair, so let's get into haircuts and we'll introduce three different razors in this particular technique. The first razor we're going to use is the straight blade so we're going to grab the Sam via Signature Series razor, what I love about this one is we have this twist on the handle and it has two different finger positions so it's a very very comfortable razor to use and that twist will allow me to get the perfect razor. cutting position I'm going to use our long cutting comb because it's a pretty big shape, we're going to be cutting large areas of hair at once, so the long cutting combs are going to be really beneficial because I'm going to be able to control a lot of hair in that moment and of course I'm using an ivory comb because she has dark hair.

I'm going to start with a one inch vertical section. Now this section size can be changed depending on the density of your guests. hair, if they have much thicker hair you might want to take something a little smaller, if they have very fine hair you could potentially take a slightly larger section, with this section we are going to raise the hair to 90 degrees horizontal, which which means this up and down position of the hair is horizontal with the floor, we want all the grains to be horizontal with the floor, that's where we get the 90 degrees horizontal, the top direction is slightly forward and that will be right up to the hairline and then What we want to create is a diagonal angle for the fingers that goes from shorter at the top to longer at the bottom.

The length in this first section is very essential because this will set up the entire rest of the haircut, so what we want is what we want. a length down here that will fall maybe two to three inches past the chin and then where we want this first strand to fall on top is somewhere around the cheekbone, that way we're really highlighting the features where these land different strands of hair. On the face shape again, guys, these are just patterns and techniques, so if you need the hair to be longer, if your client has a different feature that you want to accentuate, all you need to do is adjust that length slightly, again with elevation of 90 degrees in horizontal direction. it's slightly forward to the front hairline, we have that diagonal angle of the finger and we want the first layer to reach the cheek, two to three inches by default and now with the razor I'm going to go in and use a circular blade. technique now, what you'll also notice guys is that I'm NOT sliding my hand away from your head while I'm cutting and this is really important once you establish the angle of your fingers, we want you to lock those fingers and hold them tight.

Straight blade, we have the guard there so you can touch your fingers and it's not going to cut you, and a lot of times that's why we slide away from the head when we cut before we start getting on with what I need. What I need to do is mirror this section on the other side. We start at the front hairline and work our way back, so in another haircut you might start in the center back and work out to the sides and have that center point like your. guide for both sides in this one we don't have a guide for both sides, so we have to set that first before we start moving backwards so that the guide can be reset in one of the two ways again that we're going to go to. that one inch vertical section I prefer to create guides based on bone structure and points because what that does for me is it allows the haircut to conform to the shape of the head more than actually this is exactly the same length than this, I hope you allow it.

Let me help you understand a little better the face of someone who may be a little asymmetrical. If I cut them to exactly the same length and they fall to exactly the same length, they will necessarily hit the features at the same point, no, if I want to keep the focal points balanced, then I'm going to set my guide on the other side again according to my points of reference. Elevation is 90 degrees horizontally. The direction is towards the front hairline again. I'm going to choose my reference points. and then again when I go in, I'm using that circular motion and I'm NOT sliding away from the head and just moving my fingers out of the way so the razor can go in there now before I get on with what I want to do.

I want to take her and bring her right to me, so what we're really looking for is for them to at least be sisters. They don't have to be identical twins, but they still have to be from the same family. Looks great. Now I'm at a point where I can continue to one side or the other, so I'm just going to step back here to your left. I'm going to go into my vertical sections again, I mean take about a half inch of new hair and then a half inch of previously cut hair as my guide, so there's my half inch of the old one and about a half inch of the new one.

Make sure to comb through these sections to get them out of the way nice and clean. We want to make sure that We stay pretty precise with our movement, the elevation stays the same guys, we stay at that 90 degrees horizontal, the top direction moves towards the previously cut section, now what it's going to do is start to build a little bit of length towards the back, but it will be a subtle amount of length, it won't be a ton of excess length. I've got my elevation, my top directions are set there, I stick my fingers out until I find my guide, now my guides are on the inside of my fingers there.

I need to slide until I can see that guide located on the other side because that's where I'm cutting, on the other side of my fingers and again, don't let those fingers slide too much, so after you take your section, if you do You want, you can take a little cross section here to check your work and what you want to see is a smooth length construction towards the back and it should have that nice jagged feel of the razor texture. Part of the idea of ​​this

collection

is that we want an altered texture. We wanted to have that feeling of vandalism in the hair.

We know that's really the direction the trend is going: more texture in the hair, less dullness and texture. It's very deliberate and the razor is a really amazing tool for providing deliberate texture versus overly faint texture, so I'm going to continue working around the back of the head with the same 90 degrees horizontal/direction towards the previously cut section and then that diagonal finger angles you so as we work on the left side where we want to stop like this center back, so I'm here on our last section, it's a half inch comb of previously cut hair that's nice and clean. the path and then my last section is here directly in the back center and I'm going to stop at that point, so this is my last section, horizontal elevation again over the forward direction to the previous one, find the diagonal angle of my finger and then the little circles to Create that texture with the razor and so we get that nice diagonal towards the hair so you can see that it's starting to build up a lot of length towards the back.

This may seem too Malay SH for many of you not to understand. I stressed that this is exactly how it should look now because the hairline drops so significantly that we're going to have this excess length and I promise that we're going to address a lot of that length in one of the next steps, so now we'll move on to the other one. side, we have our guide located here at the front corner of one of the first steps and we're going to work again in vertical sections working towards the center back and, at best, we'll stop.

Again, this is our stopping point, so we take that last 1 inch vertical section by taking 1/2 inch of previously cut hair and 1/2 inch of new hair. Now, as we take this 1/2 inch of new hair, it's actually going to pick up. just a little bit of hair from what we had already cut on the other side and that's good because it's going to show me if I'm in the same spot now if you take this and it doesn't come together At the same time, don't freak out yet. I have a tip for you on how to handle that while you're working on this second side, make sure you check a little bit here and there, side to side.

Again, make sure they are at least from the same family, they don't have to be identical twins and you don't need to stress if they look a little different, but you do need to make sure they will move. a similar direction and similar lengths, so that's my main point. Now this is what I would like you to do at home when you practice. This is practicing cross checking, so the cross checking will be a horizontal section that we are going to raise. that at exactly the same elevation that we cut now as I pull this out, you'll see I have a little bit more length in my well, it's my right or left side that I do it here, so how do I work with that without going through and cutting again all we're going to have to do is take that and we're going to go through and just add a couple of connection points with the tip of the knife and I'll do it all the way over here so again take that horizontal and just so you guys You can see, I'm going to put a little clip there for you, this is not necessarily something that you would have to do in the living room and again I'm going to take that section right there through the center, the same elevation at 90 degrees horizontally.

I can still see that bit of length there, so I'm going to go over and use the utility knife to put a couple of fastening pieces between the two. sides now what that's going to do is create a little bit more of a visual mix does itso that both sides are identical twins again? No, not necessarily and I'll be honest, I'm a perfectionist so it's hard to let go. of that, but that's what we want to encourage you to do, now what we need to do is start working on the perimeter area, so I'm going to go ahead and lift it up and in the living room you just inflate the chair a little bit. a little bit and it's because I want to get a little bit closer to the level of this perimeter so I can really see what's happening.

What we don't want to do is we don't want to go in and hammer this really strong heavy geometry. In the long run we want to keep this really vivid and that's the whole perspective. If you think about that kind of '70s heritage, things were very organic, very loose and very mobile, so we want to continue to infuse that heritage into the haircut here to address the perimeter we're going to use a pinch and cut technique again. with the straight blade razor and what I'm going to do is keep this very, very visual, so I'm going to take the hair.

As you can see, I moistened it again and that's for a few reasons. One of them is that I want to make sure that the hair maintains a constant moisture content. throughout this part of the haircut and the water helps with the sliding of the razor. Now what I'm going to do is work very visually, so when I look at this front corner I don't necessarily like it. This little bit is hanging out here, so I'm going to go in and just pinch it and then I'm going to take it off with the razor. I like how these lines come back and need a little strength.

That end comes off and then I'm. I'm just going to continue to work towards the center of the back creating that movement towards the back, so again I'm going to grab that like a pinch and then I'm just going to cut it off and continue to work that all the way down the center of the back and then We'll start on the other side and we're going to do the exact same motion now that our perimeter is complete, like the sense of balance and texture that I have there, now we want to add some lightness and this is where we're going to change the blades.

Now if you only have one razor you can change the blade but I recommend you have all three handles so you can have a different blade preloaded, that makes you work very fast in the salon and I do this a lot on a lot of my haircuts where I'm switching between the straight blade with 9 spaces and the blade with 6 spaces, now the good thing with the blade with 6 spaces is that you have a lot of space between the cups and what these cups do is they hold a little bit of hair out of the way, but then it leaves a lot of space and you can see that there's a lot of exposed blade there to be able to cut some notches of the hair, which creates a lot of movement, a lot of deliberate texture and an incredible airy feel.

What we're going to do to create that Airy feel is we're going to go in and we're going to take diagonal sections of the back. Now I'm taking a diagonal from the back because it follows the movement that we're trying to create in the rest of the haircut and because I'm going to do a diagonal, it will keep this texture moving through the hair very easily in that diagonal section, just I'm going to lift it up and elevate it slightly to keep it smooth and then I'm going to go in and I'm going to use a surface cutting technique with the six space knife.

Now what you're going to do is take out some pretty strong pieces and that's what we need for that airy feel, we need a little valley there and then we need Peaks and that's it. which creates movement and texture. I'm closer to the perimeter right here, you'll notice I went pretty short there and that's okay because we're going to have this hair placed on top to continue with the back diagonal section, what you could do is go out a little bit further. You can give the hair a little bouffant and you can see the curve. If you stay closer to the end of that curve, you will have a safety net where you won't get involved. pokies for going too short with the razor now again I'm still on the inside so I can be a little more aggressive as I get to the next section this is where I really want to be careful because this is more on the top surface as well that if I get too close to the scalp, I could potentially have that kind of bounce, so I'm going to make sure I stay out of here a little bit closer to the mid-lengths and ends and make that surface and surface and you.

I can see from side to side, that has a much more airy feel than that side, so we're going to move through that when you get to the back or, excuse me, there's one more section here at the top, so let's fill that in now while Come to the back, the area that we would love for you to be even more aggressive with is the nape of the neck area and the reason is because there is more density in most people's heads here at the nape of the neck. that on the sides of the head, this area tends to have a little thinner feeling, so here at the nape of the neck, because we have so much density, this tends to be where things can feel heavy, so we'll take that diagonal section of the back and here along the perimeter because there is excess hair, I'm going to literally go almost right into the scalp and I'm really going to remove a lot of it with my razor, you can see it's pretty loose there and it needs to be like this light. so as we work it doesn't get too dense, so I'm going to continue that technique with the diagonal sections of the back, just a really low lift, come in and remove with that six space knife to create a really nice area.

Feeling airy now that we are complete with everything inside we have the texture we gained we have the perimeter we have the movement now it's time to go to our sheddings on top now these sheddings will actually be shorter than the hair underneath so we need to protect this hair under somehow our Sam using a dry cutting clip. What I have found is the best way to do this and the reason is that on the inside we have this nice little band and what that does is it really grabs the hair tightly and keeps it incredibly secure, so I'm going to take and place a dry clip on all the things that had been previously cut.

The other good thing about that band is what it does is it doesn't create as much crease in the hair, so I'm not going to fight the crease of these clips like I would with a traditional style clip in this shedding in the front , here we will use horizontal sections along the head, so I will take a section about an inch wide and again, this could depend on the actual density of the hair, if it is a little thicker, you can take a smaller section, if it's thinner hair, you might want to take a little bit thicker section because you want to create a nice guide with this first piece, so we're going to take that horizontal clip of this hair back and move it out of the way and we'll dampen it a little bit. .

This is our continuous mist spray. What's really amazing is that it's a very, very light mist. You can get a full second and a quarter of a mister bomb or you can just give it a light touch to get a little bit of water, but I loved that it has a very fine mist for this technique, we're going to switch to our nine space razor. What's cool is that this little area of ​​the cup is very small and then there's a very small exposed area next to it, so this acts more like a mixing shear, it takes very, very small Haraway instead of the six spaces , that larger spacing creates a thicker feel, so this is a fun technique and it's a little bit of a new technique for us, we're going to raise the hair just below 90 degrees from the shape of the head, so that the shape of the head is curved so that I can get to 90 and then I'm going to leave it just below that 90 degree elevation and what that will do is it will help me build a little bit of weight as we go towards the high point of the head.

The direction moves towards an imaginary wall. Almost imagine that there is a wall right in front of your face and that is where you will direct all the hair towards our cutting line. is parallel to that wall, so we're cutting a flat cut line, a horizontal cut line along the front, so what I'm going to do, guys, I'm going to tilt your head towards you a little bit so you can see the way. This is being cut because it is a new technique that you may not be familiar with. I'm going to go to the other side and what we're going to do is take the comb and use the bridge. of the comb and then my finger to catch the hair in place, so now that I have the comb very tight against my finger, what I think is a lot of tension and I give myself a spectacular visual of that horizontal line that we have.

What we're going to do is we're going to come from behind and we're going to use that nine-space razor to cut the surface instead of coming here perpendicular to the hair and working across it, we're working parallel to the hair and using a shallow motion now. This requires a few more cuts than if it were perpendicular to the hair, but what it will create is this really nice horizontal line that has amazing texture in one step, rather than having to go back and retexture the line, so what you can see is we. We have our cut line there, but it's very textured and very light and that's why this technique works so well for bangs, so we're going to take another horizontal section at the top of the head, about a half inch of hair new, just like we did. on the sides and then half an inch of previously cut hair.

I'm going to use that same elevation just below 90 degrees from the head shape for those of you who are pbd users think of head plains but then you're reaching your head plains and then dropping right below that so you're building length towards the top of the head and I'm going to continue the same technique up to the highest point of the head, which we should see if we take a The vertical section here in this marginal area and the cross control is a very smooth line that follows the shape of the head but also creates just a touch of weight towards the front here, so when I raise it up, you can see it's shorter and then it works. a little bit longer as we go towards the back which is more of a head shape so what builds us up in the front is this cool stripe that actually has a little bit of height at the top edge where the head shape is rounded , so this is going to be a really fun strip for us.

We're going to hit this back

release

and this back part is going to look very familiar to us because it's basically the same as the front, we just have a different section, so we're going to pull out that diamond

release

and again Let's grab that mist spray bottle. continue, make sure that it's moistened and it doesn't need to be soaked, just that there's enough moisture to ensure that our nine space razor glides easily and that you prepare it with the satin wire and the diamond. The oil again is really essential to maintain that glide through the hair and you're not buffing the hair with the razor, so again we're going to take a horizontal section, our elevation is going to be just under 90 degrees from the head. so I'm going to go up to 90 and let my fingers drop a little bit since this first section is going to be right below the occipital and that's why I said at the beginning during setup that you want to make sure you stop. this detachment above the occipital because what we want is this nice little piece that goes around that occipital bone and if I went down too much then it's going to hang too low, that direction again is easy and we have this imaginary wall that We're going to use our same technique with our comb cutting the hair inward with our finger and then we'll go up and do that surface cutting technique with the nine space razor.

We'll just continue those horizontal sections throughout the hair. web part of the hair and to prep it, I'm just going to get rid of these clips, we're going to add some products to help us control as we work, so we're going to start with the Redken pillow proof foundation, the reason we're going to do this is going to help really speed up my blow drying time and will help protect me from the heat. I have to shake it and a light mist is really all that is needed throughout my hair. The next product we are going to include is Redken Fashion Wave Zero Seven.

The reason we're going to do this is to go back to the idea of ​​the '70s influence, this haircut heritage where things were very vivid and had a natural feel, this altered texture that we see coming into fashion. She looks really favored by this product. Here we are going to shake it very well. I want a lot of trendy waves throughout the hair here in the front because this is an area that we can have. a lot of growth patterns, a lot of strange textures, let's read, moisten this area until it's quite damp because what will happen is during the time of cutting this area starts to dry out and once those strands start to dry in place, It is really difficult. to manipulate them again until we get a nice texture, so we're just going to read amp in that area.

I'm going to grab the cutting comb and what I'm going to do is work a wrapping technique here on the front area. the bangs with the wide teeth of thecomb. I'm going to use the back of the comb to hold the head and that will allow me to have a lot of tension and bring out any growth patterns. Get a good polish through this bangs. the rest of the hair what I'm going to do is use mainly my hands and work with its natural texture, the trendy waves really help bring out the natural texture and I'm just going to use the Finishing off this blow dry here and defining these last two pieces .

I'm just looking for overall balance and texture, so if you have some areas of altered texture, all you need to do is grab our comb and we've got a little area here. that is used to section. I like to call him a little Talon. We can use it to go in and slightly define the areas we need. Now you will inevitably have a couple of spots that won't have the perfect texture and that's where. The fancier iron is really helpful because what we can do is add some shape and a touch where maybe your hair doesn't have the natural texture that we wanted to have, so I'm just going to take the fancier iron and some of these areas where I just want a little bit more bend and I'm really going to go in gently and use that fancier to define those pieces and all I'm doing is creating almost an S shaped pattern, so I'm going in and getting a little bit of a curvature and then a little bit. curvature to enhance the natural texture.

I don't need to do it on everything, guys, because I want this to look really lived in, really loose. I'm just using it to define small pieces. I started doing this. in fact, after watching my wife do it because she has a naturally uneven texture and some areas get a really nice wave, some don't, and she would just pick up the iron and very nonchalantly take the pieces and give them a curve. And I think sometimes as hairstylists we get too involved and it has to be a very elaborate technique and sometimes we just need to say hey, you know what I want more definition in that piece, take it, give it a little movement, define it and that's it.

You really need beauty. I'm very happy with the overall shape, so let's refine the haircut. I'm going to take my Sandia signature reversible mixing shears and the reason I'm going to use this is because when using a mixing shears to do my refinement. I'm going to stick with that soft element that I have from my razor, the main place I need to focus on is these bangs because if you remember, as we cut the bangs, we basically cut a layered pattern into the bangs so that it falls over the outer perimeter . Here I'm only going to reflect what's left on the perimeter of the hairline, so I need to define that perimeter a little.

I'll just take the cutting comb. I'll place it below. I'll just adjust my body position. A little bit here for you so you can see better. I'm going to use the comb to hold the hair from below. Lower it as close to the natural fall as possible. I'm going to keep my blade solid on my shear at the bottom and then I'm going to go over and define a line a little better from my perimeter. What I don't want to do here, guys, is I don't want this to be a hard, solid edge and that's why it's so important to use a blend. shear when you do this technique and even with a blender shear, if you overdo it you'll ruin the texture so make sure you do what needs to be done and don't cut too much, we're just going to take it right to the edge of the brow bone and really this It is a great bang to open up the eye area and focus there.

It also goes down around the cheekbone area, so it helps define the cheekbone. I can see that using that blending shear I keep a very nice smooth motion and it doesn't remove what I built with the razor if I wanted to, if I look at this and feel like there are still areas that need more air I would go in and use a tissue cutting technique that if you go to our YouTube page, we have tons and tons of complementary content and there you can investigate the tissue cutting technique that we do with a reversible combination.

Check it out and we'll have a lot of details, but basically what it looks like is going in and picking up strands and then working to pull out strands of hair and that gives you more definition than if you just went in. and you cut a single line again, pick up strands and then cut those strands with the blend veil and that helps create a more defined texture. You can apply that technique all over your hair, you probably don't need much. It's because you've approached this haircut with your razors and done that pre-texturing on the inside, which is most commonly where we need that texturing.

Now, what do we need to give the final kiss to each haircut you are doing? correct product and what we are going to use is Red Khun's 0-5 mobility. The reason I want to do this is because I just want to help define the texture. I don't want to use anything that's going to get too sticky, too aggressive, I just want to help define and I find five movement ability to be one of the best products to do that. The good thing, because it really dries on your hair, it's going to lock it in and give it all-day wearability, so I just put the tip of my finger on it, I'm going to warm it up in my hands so it's really flexible and then I'm just going to go through and grab little ones. bits here and there to show that amazing texture we got in Ruby now again guys remember this is about keeping things loose and alive so don't go overboard with the definition let it be what it is a little rock and roll, bring back that '70s heritage and again it's just that little Twist the ends to define here in our bangs area, we don't want to apply too much product there because it's not good for the forehead, so we'll just take what's left on the hands and we will gently pass over that surface. eliminate any frizz or fluffiness and allow a little definition through the bangs, so let's refresh our memories because we gave you a lot of information.

We start by taking a center section from the forehead to the highest point. aim for the center of the nape and then a high point to the top of the ear just to divide it into quadrants to control the hair, our first separate section that we want to pin down and get out of the way, we'll go out about an inch from that center high point and go to that recession area, lift all that up, secure it out of the way. our second fixture will be here on the crown, again we will come from the high point, this time just the center of the high point. point, go out to our back corner and remember that's where the head changes shape, from its high point to the back corner, back to the center point again and that will be at the high point of the occipital and remember we want to choose the point high. here for this particular haircut because we want this little piece of shedding to sit just below the occipital, if we go too low we won't be able to create that shape, pin that up and out of the way and we start on our side. a one inch vertical section at the front edge that section will rise to 90 degrees horizontal remember it is flat with the floor facing just forward to the front hairline the angle of our finger is a diagonal and we want that diagonal to face out and away from the head in a way that we have shorter at the top and longer at the bottom and that's really key and remember once you hit the angle of the finger, don't slide the razor, we use a circular motion with the razor to remove hair. give us a nice light texture, 1/2 inch of previously cut hair and 1/2 inch of new hair for each section and we direct that section of the previously cut guide a little bit more and remember we just continue with 90 degrees horizontal on the same finger angle and cut to your guide, work to the center back and then we get to the other side, at that point you should have a mirrored section on this side for your guide, work again to the center back the same way as I.

Remember the little technique we used to verify this. Take a horizontal section in the center of the back so you can see where its two sides meet. Guys, don't stress if you pull this out and it's not perfectly even. The hair isn't perfect, so allow for that little inconsistency and then use that technique of just blending with the tip of the razor to blend those two pieces together so they have a nice familiar feel after you clean it completely. You're going to have to go back and use your little pinch and cut technique with the knife to complete your perimeter, then we'll go back and take diagonal back sections, remember the low elevation and now we'll use that six space knife to create. the vent through the inside, make sure you get a lot of weight out here in the nape area because it can be a problem area after it's all complete, remember to grab a clip and put it in the hair to really secure the hair from the bottom so that Don't touch it while you're working on your shedding at the top of your head, it's a very, very key point in our front shedding for bangs, we take horizontal sections in the front, our lift will take it to 90 from the shape of the bangs. head and then just let it drop slightly, the reason is we want to follow the shape of the head, but we also wanted to increase the weight up here a little bit and if you look at the profile, you can really see the results that way, it's pretty slim. at the bottom and then pick up a little bit more weight through this head curvature and that's keeping that lift just below 90, now to get into our back release, it's the exact same technique that we use on the front horizontal sections just below. those 90 degrees and then that horizontal line that's directed back toward the wall, just follow that guide as you go up the crown and again that creates that feeling of weight towards the top edge, which gives us almost a nice vertical feeling now again. with the blow dry product was very important and I can't emphasize how much I love this 0-7 shape designed by Redken for this particular blow dry because what it actually does and you can see it on your screen is it develops such a nice interrupted movement on the hair that looks natural it doesn't have too much product you feel it and it really stays in place if you do this with your clients it's going to last all day we'll use that technique of It's like grabbing the ends and giving it a little twist and dry it.

That twisting and drying motion will help define the natural texture and enhance what you already have there after it's dry, grab your fancier iron, give it a little definition on a few pieces and again, don't make it too perfect, let it It lives in it and has some movement and this is the result you will get. You can take a little more of that mobility away from five if you feel like you need more definition. through the ends just a little bit on the hands and really focusing on the ends of the hair. Guys, we love developing this educational program for you and you know that is the heart of Sambia.

We hope this is something you can adapt to your needs. Clients and guys, that word adapt is really key here. Do you have to do this haircut exactly like we did for you? Not at all if all of this is inspiration for a new haircut for you or a new style for a client who has been coming to you. For years we have done our job, so once again friends, thank you very much for your support, thank you for watching the video. I'm Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education at Sambia.