Making my office LOOK and SOUND good!

The contacts work to get them to snap together, but once I did, they latched on and were very sturdy to add a little strength to that connection. They also come with these metal plates that screw on from the top. This is where I'm starting to get into mod territory because these are not designed to be mounted flush to the ceiling. I went back to the hardware store and bought some tall shoes and some set screws and these will sit much deeper into the rail so I don't have to worry. about them getting in the way when I mount them on the ceiling, so this lamp doesn't come with any ceiling mounting hardware, so I had to make my own and I started by cutting those plastic caps to allow me to put in a little bracket that it comes out the side, as you can see, it exposes the rail that's in the extruded aluminum and then I can make a little bracket out of the hardware they sent with the package.

I had a couple of these connecting pieces left over. So I drilled a couple of holes in them and then cut them out to get two of each of those brackets. The nice thing about using existing hardware is that I know it fits and is already threaded, so I can use the same set screws. to anchor it and now I have a hole that I can put a toggle bolt through and this will allow me to anchor it into the drywall for a cleaner

look

. I decided to hide the electrical system behind one of the acoustic panels to do that I cut a new hole and this is a trick I learned a long time ago to keep the workplace clean.

You just put a bag of tape under where you're cutting, it doesn't stop 100% of the drywall dust from getting everywhere, but it does take care. for the most part and is much easier than dealing with a vacuum hose. Once I have the hole cut out, I can remove it and then run the wire through the new hole and finally repair the old hole. After that I can drill for the electrical wire that is going to come out of the back of the lamps as well as the hole for the toggle bolt that will secure the lamp to the ceiling, after that I was ready to install the lamps, these They are eight feet long, so I needed a little help from Ashley holding up the other end.

I started by running the cord from the lamp and coming out through that hole I cut. I'm eventually going to put a box in there to contain it once I've fished it and then I can put the first one in. cleat bolt and go to the other side and put the second one on, then it's a matter of tightening the bolts and getting it flush with the ceiling, then rinse and repeat for the second side and I'm ready to put the joint on. box this is what is called a new work box it has a couple of little tabs on the inside that fit on the back of the drywall and hold it in place after that its just a matter of connecting the right wires in the right locations and try Yes, they

look

amazing so it comes with a remote control so you can control it, easily change the color temperature and brightness.

Everything seemed to work correctly, so I went ahead and buttoned it up. I'm sure many of you have done it. I was looking at the foam installation and wondered why I left some sort of gap at the bottom. I've had the idea of ​​adding a border to this for a while, but I didn't want to do it before I had the foam. physically in the workshop now that I make it and I'm waiting for the rest of the foam to appear. I thought now is a

good

time to finish this ornament. Those corners aren't perfectly square, so I made a quick template with some hot glued cardboard.

I can cut these beautiful pieces of green skin with my track saw. These larger pieces will go against the back wall on either side of the door and act as shelves. I wanted the outside corner to be rounded so it looks a little more finished and nothing gets caught. I cut that curve loosely with the band saw and then went to my sander to clean it up. The cardboard template gave me a perfect fit on the first try. After that, I can start. on the long walls and for this I had to buy a new piece of wood which was very expensive, here is about a 50 board, but I needed something 12 feet long to be continuous along that back wall.

I ripped it to The Right Width on one of them, but I didn't want to pay for a larger board and most of this board is honestly going to be hidden behind that other edge, so I just glued on some scrap pieces I had on the store in the back. side of this board will never be seen, but it is a

good

way to preserve the wood and not spend so much. These clamps I'm using are the rockler bandy clamps, they work incredibly well for gluing edge banding or in this case just

making

a board that is too small a little wider working with a board this size in my size shop is really challenging.

I couldn't get it through my thickness planer and it didn't even fit on the base of my circular saw, so I had to do everything with a palm sander and a hand saw, I started with a rough cut so I could fit it in the room and then I put it in place and pressed it against that wall because that corner is not perfectly square. I wanted to reference the room itself, so I drew a line and then was able to take it back to the store and cut it to the correct length. The front corner next to the glass door is a little proud, so I cut a 45 degree chamfer.

On that end to make it look more intentional, the molding was starting to take shape, but it still needed something to anchor it, so it's not just like a little 90 degree angle on that wall. It still had plenty of tongue and groove. Panels I used to make the walls, so I tore them into strips and then rounded them over one edge. Once they were done, I decided to finish all the parts so I could finish both sides at the same time. I used a couple of Rockler bench biscuits to hold my workpiece and will use the same finish I used on the walls.

This is the total halcyon clear boat,

making

sure to mix it well before using it and then again I'm using the gloss varnish first and Going over that later after two coats, I go over that with the satin finish and put two coats of satin. This is the same process I use for the walls. In fact, I have a whole video on using water based. finishes, so if you're curious to know more, watch that video. The nice thing about this finish was that I was able to apply all four coats in one afternoon and the next morning it was ready to install with the tops installed.

I could start nailing the bottom trim pieces and with them done, all I have to do is cut them so they fit properly. To make those cuts, I'm using my picture frame sled. I use it for all types of 45 degree cuts and if you are interested in learning more about how to make one yourself? I have plans available on my website so under the shelves there will be a flat end exposed and it is not a safe cut to make on a router on this end so instead I just used my drum sander and rounded it to hand for the Amazon foam to appear and it is quite evident that it is different from the real thing.

You can tell by holding it that this is much weaker than this and it is even more so. it's noticeable when you try to talk check this out so I'm going to try to keep the volume of my voice exactly the same testing testing one two three testing testing one two three testing testing one two three testing testing one two three so you can tell me that when I talk through this one isn't as muffled as when i talk through this one, this definitely blocks out a lot more

sound

so it's probably worth the extra investment in real stuff, but i'm sure this does a bit, just not as much as this one for the smaller walls, it was essentially the same as the long walls, except I had to go over some door frames and I didn't want to extend the molding there, but I also didn't want the shadow line of the scalloped edge of the the foam, so I improvisedly cut them on the bevel and I think they look much better that way.

I mean, the echo basically disappeared, it

sound

s much better in this room. and if you don't believe me here is a clip of my last outro in this room there is still a lot to do I still have to finish the walls and put in the sockets and I have to fix the lighting the acoustics are terrible, it was an easy investment to make. I think I spent about 350 on all the acoustic stuff and then the lighting was another 200 250 dollars, it was worth it. The lighting is incredible. I've been spending several days here. It took me a little while to get the settings right because it can get super bright and super warm which is a bit much to be honest but some of the lower settings are really nice and being able to change the color temperature throughout the year When it is in winter, light it up a little.

It's going to be really, really nice, so obviously all of those things will be listed in the links below and you can find plans on my website for both these and the apartment. file if you're interested in that, as always, a big thank you to my Patreon supporters, you guys are the best and I'll leave you with some sound clips I took throughout this process, like before, during and after a microphone real so you can hear how much the difference changed. I will also say that you have been listening to my voice this whole time and that was all recorded in this room, so if that sounded good, then I did my job, thank you very much. and I'll see you next time this is the room test without acoustic foam the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog ​​testing one two three this is the room test with acoustic foam the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog ​​test test one three this is the test room with ceiling panels and acoustic foam installed the fast brown fox jumped over the lazy dog ​​test test one two three