Disconnected Layers | Remove Bulk, Keep Length and Speed Up Blow Drying Time

Hi Sam, over here with my guest Karen, one of the main concerns we hear from a client in the chair is, could you get rid of all this volume back here and did you notice when the hairline grows? If you look at the hairline, the growth pattern is that there is less hair in the front and a lot more hair in the back, so we really need to get in and know how we take off weight without actually releasing any

length

, so we really it's about saving the client

blow

-

drying

time

, so when you think about that, let's think about separating areas to save the client

blow

-

drying

time

, so let's think about this particular problem, here is your solution, so what we're talking about is this back center area back here and, as you know, for a while now. have the client drive back here, it's a lot of work for them to go back there and work with a hair dryer and brush on the back area, so

remove

the hair that you can see and can't really work with, it's just too much hair.

So what would you do, Sam? I would go in and part the front to back so I just go through and we part the front to back okay once we have that front to back part all you need to do is part one side to Now I want you to comb the hair horizontally look how the fiber goes horizontally along the back area, so once you have combed it on the back area, ask your client to tilt their head forward, move their shoulders forward, okay , right there, thanks Karen. I comb all the hair in this direction, now watch how the comb is going to go in, hold it all nice and level the grain, now the comb that is going to go in will go in right at the top of your ear.

I'm going in. I'm going to move it up and down, up and down, up and down, up and down, up and down, up and down, and I've kept the teeth of the comb right against her head. Come in and I cut a section right at that level so what I achieve is to achieve a zigzag section, so it's very simple to do now I want a zigzag section because I'm going to separate this bottom area here, so where do you go? inside and where you cut, that's where the line will be, so if I

remove

all of this, how much hair do I have on top?

I want you to always check that I'm going to take my line a little higher. because there's still a lot of volume and weight here, so you have to determine this by density, so let's go up a little bit more, so I go back up, I comb the grain one more time horizontally, okay, so remember this if you want a line horizontal zigzag. The comb is vertical, so now I go in a little bit higher than the ear this time and I go in now. I'm going to zigzag up and down up and down up and down now because I'm higher.

I'm going to do my zigzags. Look a little deeper at my comb and just move your comb until it reaches the other side of that ear portion where I want it. You can see I'm taller. Okay, now come over and stand up and you can see the zigzag. This time it's a little bit deeper, I love it, okay, so I'm going to cross over to the opposite ear, so I'm crossing over and just passing through. I continue zigzagging to the opposite side. Now it's time to go ahead and isolate this. You can see that she has an existing Bob with a separate

length

in the front area and I'll show you how you can go in and get a little bit more blend of that back and now I'm going to isolate this now take a look at the clip okay we made a clip for you with elastic because when you're dry cutting, you ever cut something like this when you're dry cutting and then what happens is you get a mark on that hair as well.

I want you to notice how that clip doesn't slide, especially with that thickness of that hair a lot of times. The clips slide out so make sure you pick up your dry cutting clips and they will really help you in terms of your work now I want to take this out but I have a mature client here why should I take this scissor over the comb which is a type a little more drastically to create underneath which would be an undercut? What Sam wants to create here is an underlayer remember the goal here is not to create something aggressive, the goal here is to solve the problem of the client who has too much hair in the back and it's taking too long to dry because I'm going to work with dry. hair I'm going to work with a 7 inch dry cut, okay, something has a little more weight and can handle that large amount of hair that we're going to go through and I'm going to reach just to the left. of the center and to the right of the center I'm going to take this whole section up up up I'm taking it so I lift this up my hand is right against her head so you can see especially Karen.

I want to maintain my length. I'm going to leave the length of it, but I'm going to take the weight off of it, so I'm going to take it horizontally so that we get to cross horizontally, okay, now look what happens when we let go of this, this will automatically collapse and then this hair. Here I'm going to sit on top of that, so we're actually taking all that weight off. Come over and I'll stay horizontal. Look how I stay horizontal upwards. There is my guide looking for that guide and another continues. The same cross horizontal line on that back will now give me a little bit of length just behind the ear area here coming back and I'm cutting it dry so I can go in and see it, we can moisten this and that's it. all the way after, but I want to go ahead and just get the weight out here, why I want to do that first before, maybe even you do this first before you take them to the shampoo arch and the reason is you do this first before you take a bowl of shampoo is to get rid of hair that you don't really need, you know you're going to cut it, cut it every once in a while, you can go back over and over and refine it now, look what happens when I take this now.

I put this on top and I'm going to give you a profile view of how that has collapsed the shape and you can start to see how she doesn't have as much mass of hair here Karen, bring your right hand back here and just run your hand through that and tell me what your answer is in terms of it's a lot thinner, it's a lot thinner, so we've taken that weight off, so it's a great little trick to come in and take the weight off in terms of saving the client blow drying time. . Now, this would be a good time to take the client to the shampoo bowl, so I do it after my consultation.

I know it's something I'm going to do. Why take her to the shampoo bowl? Shampoo with all that excess. length, then bring it back here. I know I'm going to cut it short. Now I'm drying something that I know I'm going to remove. Remember that this is something that neither you nor the client can see, but remember this when you look. This is really interesting when you look at this graduation below. What you will have is that we will have a vertical section that will move from short to long so that it collapses. Now you can enter and leave the cut. a long bob, go through it and layer it, let's go through and layer it and give it something that has a lot of movement, it has this kind of essential advantage, so again, a really cool trick to solve the problem problem get rid of this bulge back here it takes me too long to dry the solution do an undercoat not a trim based on personality an easy way to do it do it before you shampoo you know you're going to take it Now you're working with less hair because you're going to cut this dry, you want to cut this dry in this particular case, so now I go in and come back from the shampoo, blow dry and take it where I want. now I can go in and tweak it, refine it and now I go in and dry cut this Sam, why are you going to dry cut this?

It has a blonde texture, it's a lot of hair. I know I'm going to cut it aggressively. So as we move forward, remember that dry cutting is a visual exercise that allows us to see the visual edge as we release each section, so it's very good for you to dry cutting is for the benefit of the salon professional. , not for the client. Once again Sam Karen comes to you with a fantastic little tip to help you solve a problem. Remember that at sanva we have the solutions and thank you for looking.