Top 5 Problems Ford Explorer SUV 5th Generation 2011-2019

Hello friends, I'm Len, from 1st car. Today we have a Gen 5 Ford Explorer here and I want to go over some of the main issues we found with this vehicle. Let's get started. Hello friends, I got your attention. leave a comment like subscribe ring that bell let's get back to what you came here to see okay friends so you can get to know me. One of the first things I like to start with in these videos is a safety issue for me, safety is a top priority. It should be with you, so that brings us to the throttle response.

Sometimes on these vehicles they have a problem with the throttle body and you step on the accelerator pedal and it just doesn't want to accelerate when that happens, generally speaking. You will see something appear on the dashboard, it looks like a small wrench and most likely there will be a check engine light fairly close by, what that will tell you is that you have a couple of codes and those two codes are P to 111 and P at 112 the symptoms of this will basically boil down to what I said before I hit the accelerator pedal and for some reason the vehicle just doesn't want to move forward.

This can happen either from a stop or if you stopped at a stop sign and it's time to go, you step on the accelerator, the vehicle doesn't want to go, maybe you're on the highway, you're going 60 miles per hour and suddenly you're trying to accelerate to maintain that speed. The vehicle's speed and speed are slowing to the point where you feel super unsafe and all you can do is just pull off the road. What is happening at this point is that your vehicles go into emergency mode, let's talk a little. A little bit about that and limp mode usually occurs when your vehicle realizes that there is a discrepancy in the information it receives in this vehicle.

It is very common that it is a problem with the width of the throttle body, which is here just when your vehicle goes into limp mode, it is basically going to decrease the power of your engine to a minimum state just up to the point where it has enough power to hopefully limp to the side of the road and hopefully get a tow truck to the local mechanic, so the causes of this problem. They found out it was inside the electronic throttle body, it's basically a connectivity issue, that's what they decided. Something as simple as maybe you take this out of here, you take a pickaxe and maybe it's damaged or here, but generally speaking, it's actually inside this electronic unit. here that has good connectivity so some of the solutions for this actually extended their warranty to ten years 150,000 miles on this so as long as you're within that you should be good to go otherwise what would you do if you did? would have overcome? and chances are you are because 150,000 miles with an engine like this, generally speaking, isn't much.

You are going to review that the problem-free warranty could have expired. What I would do is go to a TOCOM and buy a new one. One of the second things I want to talk about is a starting problem with these vehicles. Sometimes you barely fill your vehicle with fuel, you go to start it and it just doesn't want to start. Let's talk about it now, when this happens more than You will probably see a check engine light come on on your dashboard and a code will appear that says probably one for 500. Sensually, what it will tell you is that you have a problem with this right here , this is called your Evaporator Purge Solenoid and if this goes wrong you're going to have runability issues so the solutions for this of course you don't want to just replace it right away you're going to want to try it out just go ahead and grab this .

Take a look, make sure you don't see any strange colors at this time. You'll also want to take this off. The next thing I would like to do would be to take a hose and hold it up to a vacuum gauge because We are going to test the vacuum, put this here, the next thing we are going to do is start the vehicle and run it if there is vacuum present at any point, this tests that the bleeder valve is stuck open or is being sucked in by the force of the vacuum present on both sides if you didn't have a vacuum gauge on hand which is understandable I would just grab a hose that fits this nicely and snuggly and then Of course try to give it a little tap if you can't force air through this and that means it's obviously not stuck in the open position, assuming we know this is good, it held air in, it didn't pop open or anything. the style.

The next thing I want to do is check the connectivity of my electrical connectors and wires and make sure there are no breaks or kinks anywhere, so the next thing I want to talk to you about on these vehicles is that it is very common for the dome light to on the door or jar light should stay on, let's get into this. Something that is very annoying about this problem is the fact that you never know if the door is open or closed. You are driving on the highway. You've had the problem for a while. Is my door closed?

I don't know because the overhead lights and the door ajar light are also on. Let's start talking about why it might happen inside the door. You have the latch assembly and it's actually a pretty large unit inside and there's more. to see from what you can see right now, but there's actually a switch in there that essentially knows when it's clicked that way, which means the door closed properly, the switch inside doesn't communicate at the level that it should, so the vehicle doesn't necessarily know it's locked, it's very common in these vehicles for the latches to go bad, so some of the symptoms you may notice are you're driving down the road and the dome light stays on and the half-open door lights up. on your dashboard of course that's annoying, it's also very obvious that there is a problem, maybe you're trying to press the remote and you're trying to close those doors and the doors just don't want to respond.

Most likely it's because it's not getting communication from one of these door latches so it won't do anything, it won't close all the doors and not the other one, another thing you may or may not notice is that you have an alarm on this , click that button. it won't turn off or it won't turn on I guess that's what you would prefer to say because you can't close the doors you don't have any communication with the latch and you know there is a problem so let's talk about a cause for this problem you open the door and look here, generally speaking, this is the culprit and yes, it seems like it's a very small area, but honestly, it's not within this is the closure system, it's probably this big, maybe it's built this wide. and it probably covers as much as the latch system there also has a sensor that will have like a little wire and goes to it that will basically tell the car if this latch is open or closed, it's on a jolt switch, it's okay if the latch door is ajar and it's like that you know this door is not closed if the latch is like this you should know the door is closed but for some reason on some of these vehicles inside here the door ajar switch fails and it just won't communicate like I said, you will have

problems

with of course your alarm, you won't be able to close those doors, so the alarms won't want to work, of course you will also have

problems

, like me. he said before the door was ajar and of course the dome light usually comes on when I close the door it ends up working fine generally speaking this problem can be considered intermittent maybe you close the door a couple of times and it seems which is working well for you. a couple more times and then of course it doesn't work again, no one wants to deal with that problem day after day, so possible solutions for this of course would be that you could try cleaning it, removing this door panel , enter, remove these. the bolts remove the door latch, of course there will be other things there once you take it out, you can try to clean it, there might be a little dirt or something and that of course could cause a problem with it. door ajar switch, you may also want to check the wiring, make sure you have connectivity, if there is corrosion know there is more than likely a problem, check the wiring, make sure there are no crimps, find something like that, such Once broken cables, a mouse could be bitten.

If all is well, unfortunately the next thing I would do is replace the latch assembly. Yeah, I'm starting to feel a little nauseous here, a little headache. Can we stop? Something is happening. The next thing I want to talk about is very insecure and should be on this list; Some consumers report that they have had nausea and headaches when driving these vehicles, many times passengers will experience this especially when sitting in the vehicle. Generally speaking, this will happen when the vehicle is moving at higher speeds or at least the vehicle is revving. higher, it comes down to carbon monoxide poisoning generally speaking, if you have exhaust fumes that somehow find their way into the passenger compartment, it's going to fill up and you're going to start getting headaches, you're going to Notice that right away you will most likely start to feel nauseous, your stomach is starting to rise and you may need to stop to get there.

Get out of the car very quickly, these are all signs that you have exhaust fumes entering your passenger compartment. It's been noted that exhaust gases could fill the passenger compartment through these ones here, which are the auxiliary rear air conditioning vents, so when it gets to the back of this. vehicle. I have a couple of points we want to see. If you come back here, you can see that in the corner you have these little rubber grommets. If you took this out, I can stick my finger in there. and now of course you could drive inside the cabin, inside all the time, the headliner inside these, so if this is missing or if it's cracked or leaking, then of course the exhaust can go up here and then being dragged over there, okay, there's one on the On the other side it looks like someone already tried to do something with this one.

I don't really want to touch it too much because it's fine. I didn't do it, so I don't want to touch it. There is also the seal that runs around here. If this is ripped or torn in any way, of course that will be a problem too. If you lift it up, you can see underneath here, there will be several areas that you could see like this one here, another one of those rubber stoppers. and of course there will be one on the other side of the vehicle also hidden and there are several others that can be seen that look very similar to that.

There will be other areas, let's see, we come in here and see this. any of these are wrinkled to the point that you know I'm not making a good seal or something. These are all potential areas, there's even one on the other side that could leak some exhaust here. and it could potentially cause a major problem like I said with exhaust poisoning and the last thing you want to do is get sick and potentially get worse. Those are just some of the problems we have behind us, of course, there are a couple more. points you want to check, but let's go under the hood to look at a couple more, so if you go up to the front under the hood and look at the firewall, which is the wall between the passenger compartment of the engine, of course you'll find any of these . like hoses or cables or anything that goes through them, they most likely have a rubber grommet around them, just like on the back, if they do and that grommet is out of place, torn, broken, missing You most likely have an exhaust problem. where the fumes will enter your vehicle especially if you have an exhaust manifold leak or you know a resonator leak here somewhere so after about 1.4 million people complained about this to four, They finally decided to want to fix it. what they do is you tell them, they will provide you with a complementary service, so part of this complementary service that they will provide you is that they will go ahead and replace the rear vents that they have.

In the back they are going to reprogram the air conditioning system to run at different times and they are also going to go through the vehicle and replace all those little rubber grommets that I told you about just to make sure everything is sealed. way it should be, the next thing I want to talk to you about is that Ford sent out a recall on these vehicles that the Explorers made between

2011

and 2017 and they realized they had an issue with the rear suspension, let's get into that, so some of the Symptoms of this could be a hanging feeling, maybe you're driving down the road and the vehicle just seemed to sway all over the place, maybe the truck seems to veer in different directions than it went in some of the serious cases involved.

Obvious wheel misalignment and movement due to the broken arm at the rear, so some of the causes of this are good. Ford stated that if the car is subjected to frequent travel over rough terrain, the trailer hitch and rear suspension could fracture, which of course affects the steering andlead to an increased risk of traffic accidents. The solution to this of course would be to go ahead and replace the left and right rear suspension tow links and then of course do a wheel alignment and as a bonus let's talk about these aluminum ones. hoods we have our magnet try to put on the hood nothing they are aluminum hoods and they will cause you a Let's get into it so some of the symptoms that you will notice on these vehicles are along the front of the hood you will find these areas where the paint is literally peeling off and you can see some of them usually have like a there's white powder down there and it looks like something is corroding, that's the aluminum on the hood that's starting to come off.

Moisture works its way into a small crack, corrosion begins to build up, lifts peeling paint, and exposes a larger area. The moisture coming in does the same thing and will continue until it runs all over the hood and then who knows maybe even more so there are a couple of solutions for this, if you are good at body work you can try preparing this, maybe cover it with duct tape. In the area you want to do, I would sand it so it is beautiful and there is no more corrosion, prime it and then of course paint it to match the color of the rest of the vehicle, if the damage was too severe or just .

If you don't want to go through all that hassle or pay for it, you would replace the entire hood, reassemble it, and paint it to match the vehicle again. Well friends, we had a lot of fun making this video and as always, we hope you had fun too. You made sure to click the "Like" button down there while you're at it. Subscribe and ring the bell that way. There you will be up to date with all our latest content. Well, you're already there, why don't you continue? and leave me a comment I love listening to them thank you thank you for watching visit 1a auto comm for quality auto parts delivered to your door the place for DIY auto repair and if you enjoy this video click the subscribe button