Up&Down Central Asia Adventure - Russia, Mongolia, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan

A few years ago someone told me that the real Russia began beyond the Urals. This resonated with me as I tried to plan my next Russian Baikal expedition. I found them interesting while exploring the map of Asia, an idea came to mind from Baikal. Only a short distance from Mongolia, I absolutely had to experience it and on my way back I would ride through the wilds of Kyrgyzstan and the Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan. The more I thought about it and looked at the map, the more I believed it was going to happen. Preparing my motorcycle for a fifteen thousand mile long trip could take a long time, especially when I had to do it all myself, it was a great

adventure

, it has been said that if you want something well done, do it yourself, choosing the equipment must be carefully considered every kilogram counts the day before the trip I packed all my things and loaded them on the motorbike the next morning I was ready to go on my new

adventure

after writing for 500 miles I left the Schengen area and entered Ukraine from now on the necessary paperwork would be a challenge waiting for me at every border I continued walking along the flat roads with an occasional stop for coffee to refuel or a blueberry soda an invisible hand the desire for adventure pushes me east as I approach the Russian border and it does not allow me to stop longer than necessary after overcoming all the bureaucratic obstacles, which I think is one of the great drawbacks of the trip.

I am finally on Russian soil and I feel a great relief, but it is the most difficult border crossing for Another country is still waiting for me, the largest country in the world, where a hundred miles is like turning the corner for the locals and where mosquitoes suck gallons of blood. I am very curious about Russia, but before I start discovering this huge country. country I am heading from Moscow. I am very lucky that my work colleague Denis lives near the metropolis. He will give me shelter and show me the city. Moscow is definitely an interesting city, but now I really want to visit the Russia Today television studio.

Denis organized a tour for me which turned out to be an unforgettable experience after we took the Moscow Metro Moscow has one of the largest underground railway systems in the world transporting 8 million passengers every day and today I became one of them, the call of the distant ones. The lands brought me back to the chair. I head east toward Lake Baikal, through two thousand miles of Siberian wilderness that begins geographically beyond its rural mountains. The road is straight and flat until I reach the mountains after three days. After riding, the landscape becomes more crumbly and slowly rises as I approach the Highlands.

Finally, the eight hundred miles that the mountain range extends from north to south is not high for this part of Russia, but it is a nice change after several hundred miles. of straight roads, as suddenly as the oral ones appeared, they quickly disappeared again and I was swallowed by a rough and wild Siberia now the road was straight again passing through swamps that sometimes changed into birch forests it became a kind of monotony in its raw form occasionally interrupted by the need to refuel or refresh and at night came the attacks of squads of the mosquito army dozens of buzzing monsters waiting for their opportunity to suck a drop of my blood of course I will not give anything for free and I will defend myself but La The best way, as I quickly discovered, was to retreat to the store day after day.

I moved forward, getting even closer to calm. There's only one way to get east once in a while. I passed through towns where it seems that time has stopped. Still old wooden buildings and abandoned agricultural machines remind us of the time when the Soviet Union was at the height of its power. Large Siberian cities separated by hundreds of kilometers of wilderness. Our oasis of civilization in the middle of an infinite green. I'm going to stay a little longer in one of the cities to discover its secrets um Skiz approximately halfway between Moscow and Baikal is the second largest city east of the Urals with a population of more than 1 million it is a typical run in the city ​​has old streets and busy houses with a distant past it has traditional transportation charming art ancient monuments and mainly it has Lenin the locals find their opportunities to escape the bustle of the city and enjoy relaxing on the sandy banks of the river Tisch they can fish enjoy some sports or dancing or they can just walk and even say: let's move on. 1,700 miles separate me from my destination with a call over a sufficient distance to experience my first problem in the form of a flat tire.

A tire defect is not a bad thing, but only if it is not repeated three times. Poor. I ran out of the patch and ended up standing on the side of the road again to remove the tube from the tire. It doesn't take more than a few minutes, practice makes perfect and it's worth mentioning that every time I was repairing the puncture the occasional motorcyclist stopped and told me. They offered help. It's great to see the motorcycle community around the world stick together and help each other when they have problems. I had better luck when the tire went flat again.

It was right in front of the tire service, a reliable patch. It is finally finished and I can continue my journey. The Trans-Siberian Railway is now my companion for a while. It is a two-wire electrified connecting line between Moscow and Vladivostok with a length of five thousand seven hundred and seventy-two miles. It is the longest railway in no. It is surprising that the line is very busy, it is the main commercial link between the east and the west. The trains are hundreds of meters long and weigh up to six thousand tons. I was simply amazed when I once set up my tent near the railway track.

I discovered how loud and noisy trains can be saved with earplugs before moving to Baikal. I will stay a few days in Irkutsk, where I have organized accommodation with a young family. I got in touch with them through the Couchsurfing community, which is a great help. The website service for travelers who wish to experience the life of the local people is free and the only thing you are expected to do is be good company to your host as a thank you for a pleasant stay. I cooked some pancakes and opened a bottle of wine which I drank for dessert while we enjoyed the night.

They gave me some good tips on what to visit in the city, so I prepared for the next day's tour, for now it was enough civilization time to get into nature. Baikal is waiting for me. I plan to spend the night on the island of Olkhon, 150 miles from the city to visit the fourth largest lake island in the world. It was one of the objectives I set for myself at the beginning of the trip. I headed north to an extension one mile wide. water stopped me a local ferry helped me cross in a few minutes now I am ready to discover the beauty of the island.

I really enjoy the solitude that the island had to offer if you want you can stay alone and not know anyone. I found a great beach and camped. My meditation was interrupted by the sound of a motorcycle approaching. Well, it's my Russian colleague named Dmitri who is on his way to Magadan and will be my company for the night. An excellent opportunity to practice Russian Nebraska Resnick, mother. Grozny Luigi carotid arteries knowledge of Ashutosh in Polish I was in Managua she was Nebraska with this was not what Rania cut widgets grapnels catapult or any Jaeger and the replacement number Sharia twists Sunday morning asks for a swim in the lake but the water is too cold to swim Baikal holds several world records it is the largest reservoir of drinking water at 1642 meters deep it is the deepest lake and with its estimated age of about 30 million years it is considered the oldest lake in the world after say goodbye to Dimitri I'm definitely going to leave the island, but first I wanted to see a little of the surroundings.

Visiting this place was an amazing experience, but now I have to return by ferry to the mainland and then south along the Baikal coast. to Ljubljana, the last big city before the border with Mongolia, however, I must not leave without trying a freshly caught and smoked fish. I highly recommend this delicious food the only way possible, it's 600 miles to the border crossing and it takes me three days to get there. I'm not bored there at all. The Baikal landscape gives me a lot of things to look at before I realize it. I bought an oolong tea.

The landscape on people's faces has changed, an unmistakable sign that I'm on the right path. I spent the last night in Russia near the city, the next morning I left for Mongolia to open a new chapter of this expedition, after spending two hours being pressured by a group of Mongolians at the border office, I was finally released and received by a customs. officer, on the other side, the wild and beautiful landscape of nomads and horses opened up in front of me. I experienced the feeling of absolute freedom. I can go and camp wherever I want. It is a dream for every adventurer and I am enjoying this dream as As much as I can I do the night ritual, I cook some food and with the feeling of a true nomad I watch the sunset tomorrow it will change again the capital city me Expect almost half of all Mongolians live in Ilan Betar and others still come.

Here, with the vision of a better life, the modern metropolis offers all the comforts of the Western world. I can see a big difference between the city and the rest of the country. Modern shops and high-rise buildings stand next to original houses and monuments. However, my interest is in the Buddhist monastery right in the center of the city and in my opinion Buddhism is more of a philosophy than a religion for this reason I really like the mysterious atmosphere of this place it makes me think about life the smell of incense, prayer chants, monks and the sound of spinning prayer wheels create an unforgettable experience.

I'm trying to get into the hustle and bustle of the city and just walk the streets without being seen. I discovered the real life of the blonde butt before disappearing into the vast plains of Mongolia. I will visit the Chinggis Khaan complex, which has a 40-meter-high statue of the most famous Mongolian of all time. After my visit to the resort, I will hop on my bike and ride west to discover the beauty of one of the countries least affected by humanity in the world. The first objective is the Oricon Valley, 250 miles west of Lomond Betar. I don't want it too easy, so I crossed the Cogno Tarna National Park and its sand dunes.

Nineveh, the road is much more challenging than I expected and the 60 mile stretch. It took me almost all day, the deep sand is a tough test for the bike and for me too and at that point I have no idea what the next few days will bring. Finally I reached the asphalt and continued to the Buddhist monastery called Den Zoo. It is a temple complex surrounded by a huge brick wall and was built in the 16th century by the icon abbot of the Karakoram ruins. The entire monastery is very impressive and has a long history and faded glory.

Only one path leads to Oricon Valley, so you will have to return the same way. It is definitely worth traveling the 50 miles and seeing the splendor that local nature has to offer. The entire valley is a national park where the government tries to maintain the traditional way of life and at the same time leave visitors some freedom. There is no problem here. Camp directly next to the river, next to the yurt, surrounded by a herd of horses and yaks. I get up early in the morning and try to escape the wet blue clouds coming from the west, although I leave the same way I came.

I'm surprised how different it is. I noticed things I didn't see yesterday after several kilometers. I turn south and continue across wide grassy plains to the Gobi Desert where I intend to spend a night in one of the harshest places in the world as I approach the desert the landscape changes rapidly, Greenery and water are scarce, while sand and stones become more abundant. I take every opportunity to wash the dust off my body and fill up on water. Providing bottled water is an important part of traveling to remote areas of Mongolia and should not be underestimated.

I can survive without food for a few days. I can walk somewhere without gas, but without water. I have a big problem. My free trip down the slopes. is interrupted by a puncture in the front tire an attack machine this makes for its government spark the pressure seems fine but the tire does not want to return to the rim fortunately a passerby took me to the nearest workshop where we solved the problem and I bought some patches more I hope I don't need them a dry and desolate wasteland welcomes me I'm finally here I've reached the real Mongolian desert my plan is to get water and fuel in the last town shown on the map and carry I continued towards the sandy desert but this perfect plan has a defect in the desert there are severalParallel roads and I took the wrong path, the path diverted and when I realized my mistake it was too late I decided to go further west sooner or later I have to take the main road, the sun is falling on the horizon and in the distance I can see a storm approaching.

I quickly pitch my tent and disappear inside before the sandstorm envelops me. My reward for this hard day is one of the most incredible nights. of the expedition in the morning I went out to look for the main path that I finally found since yesterday I have run out of water a river in the middle of the desert has come to meet me it is more than convenient obviously I am not the only one who appreciates the opportunity to cool off. I head west another 200 miles with only potholes and sand to accompany me. It is the most demanding test of technique and mind.

I never would have expected to be as happy to see asphalt as I was. Now I slowly approach the Mongolian part of the Altai Mountains and pass through a town surrounded by yurt settlements. The life of the locals is hard here, but the people seem to be happy, maybe there is something more behind their happiness anyway every meeting is always very friendly Hello, it's okay, the Altai area is beautiful, wild and untouched, it is easy to get lost here in search of the right path. I met a Belarusian cyclist I had met in Russia. The world is not that big.

It may seem like the next two days we continue traveling together even though the weather is very bad. I enjoy being in the mountains. Crossing the border between Mongolia and Russia is probably the biggest challenge of this adventure. It took me seven hours to get to Russia. I'm exhausted from filling absurd shapes come out and in the rain I start looking for a place to set up the tent while Andrei goes to a hotel and it paid off surrounded by spectacular nature the sunny morning welcomes me the Russian side of the Altai is totally different from the Mongolian we will have a look at the mountain slowly turning into a classic flat Russian landscape after nine days of camping I discover a hot shower and a comfortable bed I rest a little before the long and boring trip through Kazakhstan the temperature is high and the unattractive road I am really looking forward to going to Kyrgyzstan, near the border is Bishkek.

I spent a few days here to enjoy the city and prepare my motorcycle for the rest of the trip. Bishkek is the main gateway to the country and its magnificent mountain landscapes begin just beyond the city. limits it is possible to meet many travelers trying to experience the local culture and way of life. Where are you going? I'm also going to explore life on the streets. I don't want to leave the comfort of Bishkek, but eventually I will have to. I ended up on the motorbike heading to the largest lake in Kyrgyzstan, which is the second largest mountain lake in the world.

It is great, it is located at an altitude of 1,600 meters and has an impressive depth of almost 700 meters. It is a very famous tourist place. destination I met two guys from the Czech Republic here who are on their trip to Magadan. The boys are a little late, so I'm wandering around to explore, meet the locals and enjoy their friendliness. Okay, sonic, from a child, the boys and me. We are going camping by the lake the afternoon was about to be ruined fortunately nothing happened and we were able to enjoy the night in our camp the beautiful morning brings us out of our tents we are having breakfast before we all ride out to meet our new adventures what defines to the volatile quezada produces just eat - no shit look - oh shut up there I'm going to another lake up at 3,000 meters and the map indicates that I have something to look forward to The song of the lakes is great it's surrounded by mountain peaks covered in ice and Wide plains with herds of cows and horses grazing.

Local people live here in yurts and some of them offer accommodation. The only stone building is a monument to a national hero. The weather is fickle and changes frequently, but eventually clears up and allows me to enjoy the spectacular sunset. and views there are only two roads that lead from here the first is for tourists and the second is for locals and true adventurers I stay with my experience the more difficult it is the more beautiful and worth it the scenery is simply incredible the gravel road It passes through a beautiful but arid valley. I don't meet anyone and I will soon discover why after 20 miles the road ends, the river has taken a part of the bridge and I can't continue, there is no other.

There is no other option but to turn back and take a 150 mile detour. There is only one dusty road, but the views of the mountains are overwhelming and it is really worth the hassle. Ash is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan. I arranged to stay with Manuel through the Couchsurfing website before I went. meet Manuel, I'm headed to Muzz, to the only dirt bike rental in the country, come to Kyrgyzstan, guys, yes, going up the hill and driving non-stop, it's quite difficult to move, we start our ecosystem, oshel chassis, a particular example of motor co taki.

I tried a light em for me, the highway is perfect, so first a man, while a German studies anthropology and works on his research project here in Kyrgyzstan, it turns out that there is a woman involved, he finally admitted that his girlfriend occurs. Keys Manuel is a good guy and we. we have a lot in common, he's talking about the way of life here while showing me around the city, come on, like that nice thing to do in the morning, getting up my last gear of the morning, we got up early and went to see the sunrise, the best way to start.

In the morning it is time to continue and the Pamir mountains await me. I start to climb and I don't know where to look first. The straight lane has changed to a curvy mountain road that rises up to 3600 meters when I look ahead after a while. the view overwhelms me the 7000 meter high summit of the Pamir is right in front of me the feeling of being small suddenly becomes very intense and looking at the walls of the mountains makes me feel great respect for nature something tells me that This is part of the trip that will remain forever in my memories.

I am crossing the border with Tajikistan and heading to the lake. Our cool surface is located 4000 meters above sea level, even 100 meters higher than the famous Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. I feel differently about this place. I am very happy to be here but on the other hand living in such an inhospitable environment must be very hard there are many mosquitoes but that does not stop me from taking a bath in the lake the night is incredibly calm and the sky is full of stars the next day is the most demanding and surprising at the same time the legendary road m41 the Pamir highway sometimes there are obstacles in my path however military maneuvers or the occasional fallen bridge cannot stop me yesterday Barada Tsunade Akiko then comes the The first major problem: the sprocket broke and damaged the teeth of the bicycle's drive shaft.

I'll try to fix it by soldering it and hope it lasts. The only thing that can match the beauty of the mountains is the hospitality of the local people. Pamir' is wherever I stop. They welcome me and often invite me to tea in a village. I spend a whole afternoon with a nice family. I was introduced to the rest of the village and shown the way of life here during my trip to Dashami. many similar encounters it's nice to see the kids run towards the road as soon as they hear the sound of my bike the temporary repair didn't last.

I had to solve this problem again after a few hours. I'm back on the road hoping the rest of my teeth would last the 4000 mile trip home. I am applying for a visa for Uzbekistan in Dushanbe and waiting three long days before receiving permission to transit the country. I'm going to Jiki Stan, which I literally fell in love with. with and Entering who is Becca Stan the country is flatter and drier but the people are not equally friendly I stopped for a while in Samarkand once one of the most important cities on the Silk Road where I came across a Czech expedition of yellow cars, it's nice to speak my own language again, I continue west and there is less vegetation and fewer cities as I go.

Western Uzbekistan is desolate and arid and all that magnifies the view of where the lakes are located, which used to be the only reason people come here is for the minerals sometimes I meet interesting people one of them called me the most attention others write the Pamir highway on a cruise that is a challenge eventually get to Kazakhstan or do I have to solve another problem this time the rear wheel bearing is broken I fixed it with the help of a local guy and a group of motorcyclists , the motorcycle and I are already tired, that's no wonder after the roads we went through, I logged hundreds of miles every day with only breaks to eat and get gas before. broken bracket stops me in Saratov

russia

n mechanic nosov did it very fast Thanks Omar man, now the last 1500 miles are pretty good.

I have time to absorb the experience of the last few weeks. I have seen many beautiful places and have known countless great places. People, what made the trip? It sure gave me a new view of the world around me. There is much goodness and beauty. All you have to do is open your eyes.