Turbo EJ22 in my BUG! Install Part 01

in this episode of speed labs we were taking the ej20 2t out of this Subaru and we're putting it on that bug we're not actually putting it on the bug in this episode in this episode we're just taking the engine out of the Subaru and then it's going to stay on an engine mount in the corner of my garage for probably a year, yeah, so it's been a little over a year, but we're finally moving forward on the Pugford project. I didn't say finish, I said move slowly. Alright, the way this project started was that I originally sold the bug motor to help pay for the 97 talon I bought in New Mexico, so it's finally time to grab that ej 22 t I pulled out of my legacy. a couple of years ago and

install

ed it, I always had the plan to use a Subaru 5 speed transmission with reverse on this but I don't have the money for that so let's go ahead and stick with the cheaper option which is great adapter plate from ke P so let's get to work so we have the error here on the engine and obviously this container here is the ECU and the wiring harness and a couple more random bits we have the EJ 22. over here and what's going to let us get it in there is right here, a $500 piece of aluminum in the box, we've got this shiny new steering wheel and underneath that is the adapter plate that allows us to bolt the ej20 to T directly to the butt.

Volkswagen transmission rest in peace clutch all good the first thing we're going to do is lift up the fenders so we can remove the rear apron which will give us enough room to work there so I lift this up and the first thing I find is a big wasp nest anyway let's take these fenders off oh yeah i would say now the only thing left to do is get that ej20 up on the crane get it in there to see how it fits, actually no that's not what we need to do. Next, all this sound inhibiting stuff has to go and I also have to clean the inside back tray of the package because we're going to need access and iron.

I'm going to drill a hole right there for the

turbo

to sit in, but Yeah, all that sound deadening stuff has to go down a couple of those wires that don't know where I have to go, but yeah, we're getting close. The spec firewall really looks great. Someone must have lined him up like Ryan or something. look I scraped some right there, the original color of this was white so yeah it must have been rhyolite, looks cool. I'll do it Ben, I'd be cutting a big hole right here because that's where the

turbo

and downpipe will be next, we need to get rid of all the stuff we no longer need in the engine bay like cables, heater hoses , etc., there is a lot of rear insulation here that is now garbage.

The next step is to pull the rear seats. of molding so we can drill some holes in the back and voila, we look good. We still have to tear out some carpet now that we're ready to get the engine out of the corner where it's been sitting for about a year and a half and mount it, there we go, a hanging engine and the biggest thing on the road right now is the downpipe, so let's go ahead and cut that off, there we go, a full downpipe. I mean, who needs a silencer anyway? Also a light went out in the workshop while I was doing this, so I have to fix that this is screwed together in an ugly way, but it will work for the model.

Also, this heat shield will have to be removed later and now for the good

part

s first. Upstairs we have to get rid of the original Subaru steering wheel. I had to take out the shock and turn on the compressor. Luckily it didn't wake the baby and let me close the steering wheel now that we can see where the adapter plate is and okay. to Mick on the ringer ooh, the plate will need a little trimming here to fit the turbo ej20, and a quick test fit confirms that yes, we need to trim it a little here.

I'm marking this with a marker and we'll do it. Start removing small pieces at a time until it fits just right. The baby is still asleep, so he's fine. Clean it up a little with a file and let's check the fit. She's still rubbing herself a little. You can see this spot right here of this dirt and grease where it's hitting so let's take a little bit more off so it fits like a glove and now we have a perfect fit so yeah check it out this is where I introduced uh I went on I went ahead and spent some time on it, I mean. obviously you can see where I did it, but in Belleville, this edge is nice as well as the other things, so it's razor sharp and very smooth, bad, yeah, that's gold, let's go ahead and place this guy there and I have to do it.

Give another shout out to Buzzer ooh he's making this process so much easier. Basically I just follow his videos and I'll link to them in the description, but yeah, this is a fantastic piece of work that shows you all the aspects where every Anyway, years ago, it was a big help, so check out his channel . We're setting these four bolts with some blue loctite and torqueing them to 240 foot-pounds. Then we clean the steering wheel with some brake cleaning and make sure it's perfect. Next step is the flywheel bolts with red loctite and 51 foot pounds now at this point we should put a strong clutch on this thing but again I don't have the money for that so we are cleaning the old one out and putting it back on. good enough to get around town if I don't press it and will also allow me to not have to press the bug.

These guys only gain about 25 lb-ft now with the Volkswagen clutch

install

ed in the Subaru engine we can now install the engine mounting bolts, there are four bolts here and one of them is longer than the others, the length goes up on the top left and I'm going to use red loctite on these to make sure they stay in place. the bolts are in now we're going to do a quick test fit you need to get rid of that bolt though that has to do now that they're done it's time to make room for the turbo we're going to get inside and I've got most of the area It's clean and ready to go and we're going to make a hole right over here.

Right where the turbo comes in, there's a lot of dirt that I've been removing, but it doesn't come out very easily. so I'll worry about that later and go ahead and make my cuts. I need to do a quick test fit to see exactly where the turbo is going to hit and I can't get close enough so the deck plate needs to salt and this leads to more Volkswagen wiring oversights the wiring won't disconnect from the light oh no that would be too easy it goes down and splices into the tail light wiring once it is disconnected we can remove the deck lid and get The engine is close enough for a test all good again to test fit so it's still going to go up about five inches, but you can see the turbo here and basically this curry here is where we need to cut and luckily my friend.

Mick at bus aru has a video showing exactly where you should cut this, keeping the focus on this, yeah, so right there, this is the video of him anyway, I'm going to mark it exactly the same as him because it worked. perfect for it so let's go back oh I also love that video in the description now we need a hole here where there isn't one but that's a problem that can easily be solved with violence this is the fuel mm so make sure it's well out of the way, I also needed to make some cuts to the car and once that was done, I removed the junk now to make room for the turbo.

It's fine, it keeps the cut and looks pretty good. I think that's where I wanted it. I went too far in a couple of places right there and then really bad on the inside because I was trying to see the camera angle instead of my cut, which is not a great idea, but you can see here. I also went too far, yes, no. As bad as I thought at first, but that should fit the turbo, let's try it. I'm good, Peter Holmes, on the road because that's what's going to work now, oh okay, some pretty good money for the downspout to sneak in there now. on the next test fit and everything looks good these two coolant filler hoses are banging so we will need to address that and the two heater hose connections will be banging slightly so they need to be bent a little down and then things like this brake booster.

The line will be removed, covered, and relabeled so we don't forget which ones are next. I have some bolts on the downpipe to make sure it is secure. They are definitely not the correct bolts that come with this, but I can't find them. So these are working, the wiring harness is its own project and we'll have to figure it out later, first we'll mount the engine and then we'll figure out exactly where we need to cut a hole to put the harness inside the car. There are tons of tests to install the OEM heat shield on the downpipe, so there you go, I'll probably do a custom downpipe and a custom heat shield anyway, so don't worry if the turbo hole needs to be bigger I know exactly where I keep the angle grinder, so after another test fit I couldn't get the starter bolt.

Fassett solved the problem of getting the boot into that pond, so the bolt goes under the car, but this literally can't be threaded because it doesn't line up with the hole and even if they did, there's no way to turn it, it's it's just too big to turn it, the reason why usually this has a really ridiculous bolt that goes into it the other way, so this really weird head and what it does is it lays flat and then it can't turn once it's there , but that doesn't work when you're going in this direction, you're trying not to go down there.

Because you literally can't do it, I googled and found other people who had the exact same problem and the solution is to polish a big piece of metal here so you can turn the nut, so that's what we do. I'm doing the following and since I know where I hide the angle grinder, we'll go ahead and fix it with that. I removed a lot of material from the starter and it looks like the nut will fit now, so let's try it and oh well. news that it was a success, you can see right here. I can put the top starter bolt on and run and if you look back you'll notice I need to put an O2 sensor in that downpipe before I put the engine in but I'll fix it later and voila that engine is physically installed now everything What we need to hear it run is fuel and fix the wiring harness.

I struggled and struggled with the harness for a couple of days and even had the courage to start breaking it down. I stopped and that was a mistake that I quickly missed, so I need to send it to a professional and do it properly, which cost about seven hundred dollars, which is about six hundred and ninety-nine dollars more than what I actually have. So for now the bug is on hold. Finally we are going to upgrade the clutch on the Eclipse. I can not wait.