Toyota 2JZ Engine Build - Full Start to Finish

Hello, I'm Stephan Papadakis. We are here at the Papadakis races today. Let's assemble the legendary hood. A 2jz

engine

. It's a six in a row. This is for a project we are doing here in the workshop. If you want to see the disassembly. of this

engine

or some of the main bearing clearance checks we did. I'm going to link the video below in the description so let's get

start

ed and put this together so here's the block so it's been drilled to eighty six point two five millimeters. They put two, five millimeters bigger than the factory ones, they've been covered, which means they resurfaced the top and they've been hot tanks, so they put this tank in and it cleans out all the dirt and everything that's on the outside, but also take the original.

Paint it so you can see it's a little rusty we'll paint it a little bit later in the video so here we are we're measuring the pistons so now what I'm doing is. Double checking the machine shop to do that, I have to measure each of the pistons, make sure they are all the way they are supposed to be, then measure all the bores and make sure we have the right piston. of the wall clearance and that is the clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall. I will also check all connecting rod bearing and main bearing clearances.

It's time to install the pistons into the connecting rods, so use this set. Lube and lube everything, this is what they call. free floating pins, these little clips hold them, you install it on the piston and rod and the pin can actually rotate on both the piston and rod. The good thing about these pistons is that they are both coated on the top and on the sides, the coating on the top helps with temperature and the coating on the side on the skirts helps with cylinder wear, so you want to make sure Make sure the piston is installed correctly on the rod, so what I'm doing is looking at where the valve reliefs are on the top of the piston, the intake valve relief is a little larger than the exhaust valves.

Now that everything is flat and we know that the block is good, ready to be assembled, I'm going to go paint it so that I've taped all the parts that I don't want to paint and come out with some engine polish. This time we will stick with normal black. Now it's time to make sure all the gaps in the rings are correct. What happens is with a slight change in bore diameter it can change the gap in the ring and we want a very specific gap so what I'm going to do is put the ring in the cylinder, square it in the cylinder just by putting a piston in it and then use a feeler gauge.

To see if the gap is the right width, these are a little narrow, so I'll put them on the ring grinder and grind them on the end of the ring, so when you grind the end of the wing, you take some of the material off. and when you do, you just want to make sure you don't have any burrs or anything on the edges that could scratch the cylinder wall or not allow the ring to seat properly. Once all the rings are separated it's time to install them on the pistons, the first is the oil spring which is like a spring that pushes out the oil rings, next is the second ring, this is usually a cast material which is a little more brittle so I will install it a little differently by expanding it rather than twisting it, cast rings don't like to be twisted and could actually break.

The top ring can be twisted. There are also little letters on these specific rings that show which one is on top. These have a small n. so I'm going to go ahead and rotate it and then do the rest of the other six distances. I also like to number all my pistons and which direction they will be installed in the block. I really like to double them and Let's triple check everything on an engine now that the pistons and connecting rods are ready to go in, so I'm going to turn the engine over and put the crankshaft on.

We've already checked all the main bearing clearances and we'll make sure everything is super clean and I'll go ahead and install all the bearings next, before we put the crankshaft on we're going to put the oil sprayers on pretty simple, they just bolt on , they are really good because they help cool the piston, they also lubricate the piston pin and the cylinder walls, these are called thrust bearings, basically, when you push the clutch to disengage it, it pushes up on this bearing right here, the thrust bearings. push. I'm actually going to lube both sides that way, it's very sticky and it sticks to the block and it doesn't want to fall off when I go to put the crankshaft on, so very care

full

y go ahead and put the crankshaft on this is just a 2jz crankshaft from factory.

They are forged. They are really good. They are quite strong in very common people. will make a thousand horsepower when these original connecting rods go ahead and put assembly lubricant on all the bearings in the main cap and they are all numbered one through seven and they also have an arrow that indicates it was forward on the engine, forward on the engine is where the pulley is and all the drive belts so all the arrows are pointing towards the tip of the crankshaft and where all the pulleys would go so go ahead and SAP all of them with the gun and then the I'll tighten up to 33 foot-pounds. that the factory recommends and then they also say to do an extra 90 degrees, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to draw a line at 12 o'clock and I'm going to turn the whole thing 90 degrees basically at three o'clock and that will clear it up for us. to spec and then once everything is bolted on I like to make sure everything spins freely and there are no issues so now it's time to install the pistons the cylinder walls are nice and clean at first and then we will place the piston ring. loop over it.

I'm also going to put some of this piston ring lube on the skirts of the pistons and rings. Next, I'm going to align all the piston rings because the gaps have to go at specific angles and again this is going to vary depending on the engine manufacturer and even the engine manufacturer on how they like to do it. I always like to hold the piston with the exhaust valves pointing towards me and that way I can be consistent on each of the pistons when I align the rings. So this is the piston installation tool and I'm also going to lubricate it because the rings have to slide down.

I'll check the ring liner again and now we're ready to put it on the crankshaft, it's on the dead bottom. center which means the crank pin or journal is all the way to the bottom giving you more room to make sure you don't push the rod into the main journal so these rods are BC and it is your crankshaft rod. standard H beam which will work great for our application and they had them in stock which is great because it's such a short time between when we got the engine and the

build

we really wanted to use parts that were in stock and not have to make custom orders. so we'll go ahead and install the rest of the pistons and we'll be done with this part so once I saw the piston they should be pretty consistent as far as the tension needed to push them down if for some reason they're a little bit different which it could be a sign of a problem and then also make sure you look at the cylinder walls and make sure there are no scratches or anything that happened in the installation because that will show that maybe you had a problem with the ring gap or something like that, so now turn the crankshaft and make sure everything turns smoothly.

Then it's time for the butt. The stock was made by our friend Tom at Port Flow. He took the dirty head and cleaned it. above made what they call a pocket port or bowl port and it is the area where the valve seat meets the casting in the head and a lot of times the factories don't do a good job of joining it and having good flow in that section and making a complete port in Polish. I don't think it's necessary on these heads for the power levels we're going to make. This is what they call a CNC valve cutting machine that you can actually program and how you want them to cut the valve seat and then it goes in there and cuts everything perfect, then resurfaced the cylinder head and got it all ready for installation.

Here's a quick picture where he can see the pocket port and you can see where the valve seat is with the inside casting is nice and smooth and that's where he transferred it. Here's all our super tech stuff, so this is the valve train we're going to install in the cylinder head. Double valve springs. Titanium retainers. CNC retainers on channel exhaust valves and stainless steel intakes. Tom will go ahead and put some grease on the valves when he installs them, then he will install the spring base, the locator, the locator keeps the spring centered inside the spring locator key, the center of the spring, then he installs the double valve spring and down there you can even see the valve seal, so the valve stem seal is what prevents the oil in the cylinder head from going down the valve shaft, the valve stem and go into the cylinders or port, this is what they call a valve spring compressor, so the valve spring compressor goes around it, pushes the bottom of the valve and the top of the valve spring retainer , once you compress it you can go ahead and install the retainers once they are both installed you can remove the spring compressor and now. the valve spring and everything is installed now we are going to install the dowels into the block, this is what aligns the head with the block and keeps the gasket and everything in line.

I don't like hammering directly on the dowel because it can bend so I made this little tool with just a bolt on a nut that stays on the dowel and then I can hammer the bolt that way it doesn't mushroom on the dowel so here is the head gasket. a factory Toyota MLS coffin is called multi-layer steel and these are really good gaskets from the factory, so we'll go ahead and get a new one and use it in this

build

. Next we'll put the head on and One of the weird things about putting these two J engines together is that you can't actually put these washers on the head with the head bolts installed, so first you have to put the washers on, then you put the bolts on cylinder head and then you can put the nuts on and everything, so I pre-lubricated the washers and the head bolts and then once we put the nuts on, we're ready to tighten up and get our big torque wrench because we have to tighten this up to 85 pounds- foot and I'll do it in a couple of stages here, so I'll

start

doing 30 foot-pounds, then I'll go up to 60 and then 85 foot-pounds.

These are BC cams at 64 degrees and they are relatively soft cams and for this drift car this is probably the best for this, a little pro tip here if you grease the inside of the cam seals at the front and they stay as seals , they tend to seal and last a little longer, in my experience, then I'll put all the cam covers on and set up camp. seals, there is a little bit of silicone you see under the cam cover. I'm just going to remove these bolts a little bit. You have to be very careful when installing the cam covers because if you don't have the cams and the right one. orientation and you start to tighten the cam caps in the wrong order, you may break a cam, so you have to be very careful and follow the instructions in the order to put the cam caps on, then we will go ahead and tighten all the cam caps cams.

I now have cams installed. I'm going to install the oil pump. There's just a little bit of silicone and a couple of O-rings. I already changed the front main seal. This is our new rear main seal. There is also some silicone in it. reach in what kind of pain and get these six bolts next we're going to put into the upper oil pan so this one is really cool because it joins the whole block and it's actually a little bit rigid too, there's no gaskets down here they are just silicone so put the silicone in a zap on all the bolts and then tighten it per Toyota's recommendation so what they call an oil baffle and it helps separate the rotating crankshaft from the oil that is on the tray, this is the oil strainer. or the oil pickup, this is where the oil is collected from inside the oil pan and sucked through the oil pump, so now you can see what is happening inside the oil pan, so if you ever have An oil pan that hits something like something in the road and dents it, can hit the bottom of this oil strainer and that's how you can have a problem with your engine later because the strainer can no longer collect the oil from the pan.

This is the Oil Level Sensor, it has a little float there and it just turns on a warning light if the oil level gets too low. This is where I tend to be much more generous with the silicone that is in the steel pans. I'll make sure. what are youSuction cups don't leak so I'm going to put a little more silicone in and then we're going to put all the bolts in and then we're going to tighten them and you'll see I'm using the torque wrench a lot here and the reason is It's very easy to overtighten something even after years of experience.

I think using the torque wrench doesn't take much longer and you can tighten everything perfectly and once it has worked perfectly then you can be sure it won't fall off. We'll go ahead and put the exhaust cam gear into torque and this is the intake cam gear, this is where the variable cam timing works and within that gear there are some mechanisms that depend on the amount of cam pressure. solenoid oil. In fact, we will adjust the cam timing on the intake. We really want this to be able to help up to 60 or 80 lb-ft of torque at low revs and for a car that runs at low revs, the vvt-i motors are pretty good for that application if you're doing drag racing or something. where you really spend all your time at more than five or six thousand rpm.where the vvt-i is practically back to zero, it won't be much of a benefit if a little blue loctite installs the tensioner pulley again by tightening it and now we will install the timing belt and timing belt. it has a very specific alignment so on the bottom gear there is an alignment mark on the gear and then also on each of the cam gears so we'll align each of those and then we can put the timing belt on the end . put the timing tensioner on, then we install the timing belt tensioner, what it does is actually tension the timing belt and before I pull the pin and put tension on the belt, I'm going to rev it up and make sure that everything be fine. it's still aligned correctly and once I know it's all aligned perfectly, I'll pull the pin and allow the tensioner to tension the belt.

Then I'll turn it over again and triple check that the belt is aligned correctly once I know everything is perfect. Let's move on to the next step, so this is the lubrication for the variable cam, this draws oil from the block down there and goes up to the cam cover and from the cam cover it goes to the variable cam solenoid the same way as the variable cam. The cam works is that the computer sends power to this little solenoid which then does a duty cycle with a certain amount of oil on that cam gear and depending on that duty cycle it can change the location of that cam gear on relationship with the cam and when doing it.

I can change the location of the cam relative to the crankshaft, essentially changing the cam timing, then we'll put the valve covers on. I have read these powder coated wrinkles and for years I thought they were caused by Honda in the type of our engines and then recently I realized that is not the case. Ferrari has been making crimped valve covers since the '50s and it turns out that Testarossa actually means redhead and Ferrari has been crimping red valve covers for 50 or 60 years and I think everyone has been biting at them. So I added a little silicone to the corners of the cam covers and this is an area where oil can often leak, so a little silicone in there can ensure that you don't have a leak in that section.

I can also see where we added the hardware to the valve covers for the crankcase breathing system. We're actually going to use both knock sensors on the engine and this is another area we still need to take into account, so I've masked it out. area when I painted the block because I want to make sure that the knock sensor is directly on the actual metal block and make sure that we tighten it because depending on the torque, the knock sensor will actually output a different force signal below than we have . the cam timing sensor, so this sensor tells the computer where the intake cam is in relation to the crankshaft, so now we're putting the timing covers on, it's a little modified to fit the different cam ports. water that we have here in this car. from having a normal mechanically driven water pump it has an electric water pump and it has - 20 fittings for both over the lines here is the crankshaft damper so I'm going to go ahead and put some anti-seize on the inside of the pulley of the crankshaft and then I will install it. put it on the chef's snout of the crank and it didn't push so easily and look, you can use the pulley bolt to push the crank pulley, but only if it's really easy to keep going like this, it's super easy and it didn't. it has a lot of strength, but if you have any resistance you will want to use a specific installation tool because if you apply too much force on this pulley bolt you can ruin the threads inside the crank and you will have a real bad day, if you ruin the threads, the torque on this pulley ball is actually 239 foot-pounds, it's really incredibly high, it pretty much maxes out the torque wrench to get that torque.

I have to block the crank from turning. What I did was put a couple of flywheel bolts on the back of the crankshaft and shimmed a lever in there so the crankshaft couldn't turn, so thanks for looking, I had a lot of fun building the 2jz. If you want to see more of this content please consider subscribing thank you.