Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood - Cabinetmaking Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld - Part 1Jun 06, 2021
Hello, my name is Mark Sommerfeld and welcome to my store today. What we're going to show you today is how we're going to build cabinets in our store. We'll show you how we built this base cabinet and then we'll show you how we built a similar top cabinet. Now for the good thing about building custom cabinets. What you will do. The advantage of building a custom cabinet is this: if you buy these three cabinets, we basically have three cabinets here. If you bought them at a Home Center, for example, you would buy this cabinet and you would take it out of a box, you take this middle cabinet, take it out of another box, you take this drawer, Bench here, take it out of another box, you take Those three cabinets you would screw together the front frames and then you would screw them to the wall.
The advantage of custom building your cabinets is that you can build all three cabinets or more cabinets all in one with the same floor. front frame and everything, it will look much better and you will save materials because it will not be grouped with two sides here and two sides here, you only have one
partition in the cabinet, now let's say we wanted to make this cabinet. okay, we wanted another bench like this, another base like that right here, all we just do is take this style off, bring in a middle style, bring it here, bring in these cross rails and you can make this cabinet any length you want. canvas built 12 feet long before so that's the advantage of building custom cabinets now another advantage that we're going to have when building our canvas is that we have this new method called the tongue and groove method what we're doing with each piece of
woodhere is assemble with a tongue like this and a groove like this, okay, what we're doing, the side of our cabinet is being tongue and groove here, our
partitions, our tongue and groove, even our floor down here is tongue and groove, okay, when it goes up to our corner box take these corner boxes we have tongue and groove on our corner box or their tongue slots so the cabott is locked together with the tongue and groove years ago when I built cabinets what I would do is I would take and I would build the face frame, attach the sides, what I would do then is just go like this.
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sommerfeld s tools for wood cabinetmaking made easy with marc sommerfeld part 1...
I would take and nail the face frame to the cabinet and then the pocket hole appeared where I would drill a hole in the side of the cabinet. well the bad thing about that the hole in the pocket you know you have to align it it slides you know you have to align it by eye and it's a pretty ugly joint well the nice thing about tongue and groove is this when you put that tongue in that groove not only do you get a huge amount of strength, but you also get tremendous precision and it makes it perfect for you, so that's how I'm going to show you how we build our cabinets now with this. tongue and groove method, so what we're going to do next is start building this base cabinet.
Okay, we're ready to start building our cabinet. The first thing you should do when building a cabinet is to build the front frame first. The reason is that if the face frame is built square, everything that fits behind it has to be square, especially when we use this tongue and groove method, everything will line up perfectly. Okay, you can see that I have the face frame sitting on the floor. here and you can join in the corners of the frame of your face different ways in which you can mortise and tenon this joint you can make cookies you can hesitate you can make a hole in the pocket we are going to make a hole in the pocket we will show you later how we do it because it's quick and
easy, but that's the only place where I use the pocket hole in the entire cabinet, okay, to design those pocket holes, now what we need to do is here, you can see this piece is attached to this piece here, okay, we're.
We'll put two pocket holes here, we'll also have two pocket holes here and if you want to mark all the pocket holes in your project, you'll see that you'll end up seeing every piece at all. The end grain will have pocket holes, except for my InStyle, there are no pocket holes here, but otherwise each end grain member has two pocket holes, so we'll put them all in the drill now. The next thing we want to put on our face train is I have to cut slots remember our side is going to go in here right here is my face frame here is my cabinet side going in here okay you can see on the back of that style There we have a slot, well, we have to know whether to put that slot on this side of the board or on that side of the board, well here it is simple because in this one here the glued side panel is going to come out so you can see this piece here same.
Let's mark it and put our slot on this side. Okay, we'll go through the entire cabinet in this piece. Now we can put that partition anywhere. Well, let's choose a side. Let's choose this side we want. do it on one of the sides because we want it to be flush for our drawers here we want it to be flush now we go down to this style we can put this slot on this piece on any side well we're definitely going to choose this side because it's right here and the reason is because now I'm automatically going to be lined up for four drawers for my drawer slides, if I placed them here I would have to build for all four drawers, so we don't want to make that our The last one here, now this piece goes next to the wall and we are going to take the slot inward for two reasons.
Number one, we are now going to be automatically aligned for our drawer slides and we also have a huge area to write on. here, in case our wall is out of plumb, we can take and mark this if it fits on a crooked wall, so we have all of our slots set on all of our styles. Now let's come back here, we also need a slot in this top rail. here and we need the slot on the top side to connect all of our corner blocks here look, we have a slot across the entire system here for our corn box, so we'll choose that top rail and we'll always put the slot on the top side now on the bottom here down on our bottom rail we're going to put a slot on the top side as well because that's where our floor is going to come in and it's going to be flush here, so what we have now we have all the slots set. all the pocket holes were ready to start drilling our pocket holes, okay, we have all the members of our front frame placed here, we are going to draw the pocket holes where they are needed, we have our little pocket hole template here , I just use a little pocket hole jig, this is the only place I'll use it as long as I use a pocket hole jig here's a step drill that you want to put the stop collar on that step drill, so when it goes into your socket you want to put that stop collar on so you're about an eighth of an inch off the floor you don't want that to come through the
woodokay so all you do is take your member and size it up on the template, hold it and we're going to drill our pocket hole.
Okay, so rejecting a small electric drill that runs on batteries, you can use it too, there are your two pocket holes. We will now continue to do so with the rest of our members. Okay, you can see now that we have all the pocket holes drilled. now what we need to do next is we need to take care of this, take these members over to our router table and we're going to cut that slot in the back here where we need to, okay we're ready to start cutting the slots on the back of those front rein members with our tongue and groove set here and you can see this is our slot cutter and this is our tongue cutter and the nice thing about our tongue and groove set since they all our sets match perfectly if I'm going to put these two together you can see how that slot matches up perfectly in height to fit on that lug with these two prongs from the bottom down now so anything goes when you put that slot cutter in there and cut your groove if you take this out and put the tongue cutter in, what's going to happen is the tongue and the groove are going to match up and when they meet here, like this, you're going to have a perfect flush fit because those two parts are perfectly aligned now many times. people don't do their bits that way and the reason we can do it makes it a lot easier because you're not adjusting the height of your router once I have it set to the right height.
I can build an entire set of kitchen cabinets without even moving my router and the way we deal with it is when we put that part in there, you're going to tighten that part, everyone says you're supposed to turn it up about an eighth or a quarter. inch, because when you tighten that bit, that bit has to have the ability to suck on the collar to get a nice tight fit on the bottom of my collar. I have this little O-ring there, you can see it here. when I put that bit on top of that little ring right there, when I go to tighten it, that bit is going to compress against that ring the same way every time and that's our little secret, so we're going to put that slotting cutter on. to our router okay we're going to tighten it up here now once it's tight once it's tight we're ready to go we're going to put our insert ring in here now the next thing you want to do is put that bit on the correct height and use the tongue and groove.
What I always do is I want about an eighth of an inch of shoulder right here on this tab on the offset. I want about an eighth of an inch of shoulder on one side, so that's where we want that now, if you have our little
easyset, it's a little gauge that sets eight different bits, the slot cutter tab on the glue cutter is right here and the thickness of the wood that I'm using today is thirteen sixteen, so I just mark this little template in 3/4 here at 1360. I know I'm set at the right height, so I'm going to place it and you can see I have to lift my group cutter.
Okay, now you can see we are. lined up perfectly at the right height with our easy set now it's great to start cutting that slot so we're going to zoom in on our fence and all we have to do is take a little ruler on that bearing and turn that fence so it lines up flush. with our bearing we're ready to start cutting the groove, now what we're going to do is just make a sample cut here to show you what's going on, we're going to come in here and we're going to cut the groove, okay, right there you can see our slot is cut now the next thing we want to do is come in here and we're going to change the slot cutter and place the tongue cutter so if you just pull the slot cutter and start the tongue cutter we know we're set to the correct height adjust it insert the ring we are ready to start again what we are going to do is take that straight edge on the center bearing now rotate our guide so that it is flush with that bearing and we are ready to cut the tongues now you will see each Once we start cutting equal tongues you are always going to put the good side on the side you want, the side you want flush, here it is considered the good side. you always put that, okay, there's our tongue and here's our groove and you can see how nice and flush it is.
I can't even drag the nail there, find that color, that's how we do the tongue and groove. So what we're going to do is we're going to take this tab cutter out of here, put the slot cutter back in and we're going to start cutting the front frame members for real, okay, we've got our slot cutter back in there. Now we're ready to get started and cut that slot. Remember when we mark them, we don't want to cut that slot on this side that was the front side. We want to cut the slot on the back, but we want it on this edge. of the board, so let's leave it, let's cut that slot right here.
Now when you cut this, you don't want to cut that slot all the way through, otherwise you'll destroy the integrity of that pocket. hole, so what we're going to do is start cutting the slot roughly somewhere here and finish roughly somewhere open here. What I use as my router table gauge is my little insert ring here. I start about an inch from here and stop about an inch into this insert, I'll show you what we're doing right here, okay, about an inch three quarters, anything we don't want to do, we can come in here, but we don't want to. go. through that pocket hole part there, so we'll continue doing this with the rest of the members of our base frame here every now and then we'll be ready to assemble our face frame.
Okay, you see, we have our face frame ready. To assemble it here I'll go over some dimensions for you and your building standard cabinets are thirty four and a half inches tall so you'll build this style it's always 31 inches because we cut our standing leg into three and a half so that will always be 31, this will always be 27, nowyou know, plus the four is 31. These, the length of these pieces will be whatever width of your drawer, whatever you want there, so that will vary the bottom piece between your two. The styles will be four inches shorter than your cabinet length, of course, and all other members will be variable up and down a bank of drawers.
Now when we do this, we always do five inches here, five inches here at the bottom. two drawers is five and a half five and a half to do that, we always have these blocks on hand, we always have them on hand, you know for a fact that that top rail goes right here, we can mark it, okay, then comes our top drawer. five inches so we can mark that our next drawer goes in here, we can mark this, it's five and a half, we can mark that the bottom one we know is right here and when we remove itNow we can simply mark the top of the drawer here, like this, in the top of those rails, so that we have exactly the position where they are all going to go.
Now, whenever you find a matching rail, you'll want to make sure they are there. We're aligned, put these two pieces together. Okay, I'm going to slide this down here and I'm always going to grab a spring clamp here like this. Okay, now I can take a square and transfer the position of those rails to that other member. So, anytime you have matching pieces like that, it's good to do it because you know you're going to get perfect alignment. Remember, as I said at the beginning of the DVD, here we want the face frame to be square.
If that face frame is square, everything fits. Behind him it has to be square. Okay, now we are ready to start assembling this face frame. When you start assembling a face frame, you want to start in a corner and you want to work diagonally when you start assembling that face frame. This is what you should do. I don't want to do, we're always going to put this here first in that corner, then we're going to put this piece, then this piece, then this piece, then we'll come in here and put this piece next and then we'll keep working now you don't want to do this you don't want to put these two here then put this member in because that means you have to squeeze this one between two pieces look, that's hard, it will work but it's the heart.
I'll always keep one edge open and work diagonally, so we're going to start screwing this corner together now, when I screw my face frames together, this is how I do it. I like this little glue robot here you don't need to shake the glue it's like a hydraulic system you push this here you always get glue it doesn't matter you have to shake the bottle upside down but let's put some glue right here. We're going to put a little bit of glue on our head ok now what I'm going to do is the bad thing about green, I'll show you right here every time you put glue on green and I always spread it a little bit so the grain of a piece of wood is like a bunch of straws, they're just going to keep sucking on that glue, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to go all the way through my face frame, I'm going to come in here and I'm going to put a drop of glue all over my face frame, it's going to be all green, okay, I'll go through that whole cabinet or that whole face frame, but I'll glue everything in green, then I'll go back and put another layer on. and what that first layer does it absorbs in green and creates a better bond with that other glue that comes in that second layer of glue.
Okay, we've got that glue there. We're going to assemble this joint now the way we do that, we've got our little face clamp here, it's got a big pad on one side, we're going to cut that pad off, it's going to go on the good side, on the back of the good side, like this, we will press it down. it's up and it keeps the front flush, now excuse me, we're using it, we can have two different sizes of screws inch and a half, inch and a quarter. I like to use the inch and a half on the front frame because it goes a long way.
We're going to make this joint a little stronger and we also like the large washer head screws as they don't sink as quickly. We just take our square screwdriver and screw the joint right there, okay, we'll go ahead now and start putting that together. face frame complete, okay, our face frame is now complete, you know, we cut all the slots where the face frames will be, all set, now, next we will start making our sides and attach the sides of the cabinet to continue, okay? To see where our front frame is
made, the next thing we will do is attach the side panel to the front frame.
Now to do that, this side panel will be the side panel that will be displayed. So whenever we do something that's exposed, we don't use plywood, we use a raised panel and you can check out our raised panel DVD on how we make raised panels, but we'll go over some dimensions here on the top rail here. make it 5 inches on the bottom rails 5 inches on the rear rails 5 inches on this front rail let's just do four and a quarter because once it joins the front frame here it becomes 5 inches see and also make sure it's really a a little bit longer than four and a quarter four and a half because a quarter of an inch for that tongue to eat in this style half highlight here I do three inches and then you can find out what the panels can be, but in our fact sheet that we have, remember it is thirty four and a half inches tall and the depth of all the cabinets is 24 so you can figure out the dimensions there, after you have
madethe panel there will be four things you will need to do for this panel before you can fix it to the rail what you have to do first is cut the slot there is a kind of slot on the top and a slot on the back the slot on the top member holds holds our corner box, let's see that our corner box fits perfectly in those slots.
We are also going to cut a slot that goes down the back to receive the back of our cabinet. The other thing we have to do is kind of clamp on the front so that it can receive the slot on the back of our face frame, the next thing we have to do is down here at the bottom we have kind of finger rest area and all of our finger rests are three and a half inches high and three and a half inches from here to the beginning of the face frame, okay, when we do that, I have another sample here, we always cut our toes on a finished edge at a 45 degree angle, many people just square them off and cut them straight when you put your toe on. kick there you'll see it in green well this way we can cut a 45 into our finger kick and the embed goes away it makes it look a lot more attractive okay after we've cut the finger kick and when we cut that kick we just take this to your table saw, tilt your blade to a 45, put this next to the fence and cut, cut your 45, then take your butt to the side of the fence and cut and the piece will fall off now if you start doing a movement with the left hand. cabinet, okay, my table saw tilts this way when I make the other cabinet, you want the other one to tilt this way, your table saw is not going to tilt right, that's when we take a jigsaw, we place the jigsaw at a 45 degree bevel and we do that hand, well, after performing the kick with the tool, the last thing we have to do with those four steps is to nail an ear and a dowel and this dowel always has 4 and 3/4 inches tall and will start right behind our toe kick. and we want it to finish before we get to our groove on the back with our nail on all of our sides, what's the point of that?
Well, let's say this is the floor of my cabinet, that's the floor of my chamber that goes down and rests. on that and that transfers all the weight to the actual floor so it makes your cabinet floor very strong and of course the front of my floor has a tongue and groove groove on my face frame so what we're going to do next is Let's take this piece, we already have the tool kit cut out, let's say we're going to take it to the table of our router and we're going to cut the slots and the tongue.
Okay, you can see we still have our slot cutter. our router and we're going to cut that slot into the back and top of our panel. Now, as we do that, we're going to paste this panel here like this. Run this and it's a little bit difficult to keep this here. we know it's tight and square, so we have a new feather board, it's not just a feather board, it's also a guard, we're going to use it on our router table, here we are holding it, here I'll show you later how we're going to use that, it's a guard, it protects a little bit, but you can also see how these members here, it's a nice feather board, well, we'll use it this way, we'll run it on these tracks and here and here now I'll do it.
I'm going to show you how we're going to I'm going to show you how we're going to set this up to set up this template, we're going to take a piece of material the same thickness as what we're using here and we're just going to To bring our feather guard here it takes about three or four fingers, just press and adjust your bottom right there and pull your member out of there and we're ready to go through the back, now they're putting this back through that pen. The guard is tall enough to keep him nice and plump right there.
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