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Shoeing a Draft Horse - Tips and Techniques Part 4 (Rear Hoof Shoeing)

Feb 27, 2020
Royal Heritage on RFD-TV is brought to you by Rural Heritage magazine, a bi-monthly magazine featuring articles on farming and animal-powered logging. Small-scale diversified family farming and farming and other aspects of our rich rural heritage. Rural Heritage Magazine Borrowing From Yesterday to Do Today's Work For subscription information, call three one nine three six two three zero two seven or order online at wwlp.com at Pat's Front Feet we use a half inch shoe that has a toe clip and a clip is used to stabilize the shoe on the

hoof

it is used to relieve stress on

horse

shoe nails when a

horse

goes in a straight line like a heavy horse does the Most of the time all the tension is from front to back, especially if you have a traction device on, so it is important to have a clip, especially if you have a pad because there is more room for the shoe to move, so which takes stress off the horseshoe nails and helps keep the shoe in place on the hind legs.
shoeing a draft horse   tips and techniques part 4 rear hoof shoeing
I used to shoe with a little more traction. the pleat is longer, in fact, I lengthened it on the outside branch to give it even more support back there, but I used to shimmy it with quarter clips and used it because it has a tendency to land hard on the outside due to its narrow base. stance, so it has a tendency to move the shoe inward and the

rear

legs tend to twist and turn a little more as they turn corners and that further helps stabilize the shoe on the

hoof

if the clip is between the first and second nail hole is called a quarter clip if it is between the second and third or further back it is called a side clip and is used to help stabilize the horseshoe on the horse's hoof wall and also if a horse has a Broken hoof wall removed or broken, this will help hold the shoe in place so you can use fewer nails in that area.
shoeing a draft horse   tips and techniques part 4 rear hoof shoeing

More Interesting Facts About,

shoeing a draft horse tips and techniques part 4 rear hoof shoeing...

All horseshoe nails have a mark on the head and that mark goes towards the inside of the foot or towards the frog. The other end is tapered and that dry pulls the nail out of the hoof wall while you nail it into the shape of the head it is very important this is a head nail any head nail is designed to fit into a square hole and in these - shoes that is a square hole this nail fits well and it is very important that that nail fits well in the nail hole so that it does not wobble, it stays there, it is tight around the nail, if they are not tight, the shoe comes loose Immediately, the nail has to be made for that shoe or vice versa, on this 3/8 inch caddy, you can see that the nail holes are more rectangular and that it is drilled for a traditional American nail or a butcher head nail. city ​​that is more rectangular so that it fits tight there and tight there, it is so important to have the appropriate nail that fits that nail, the century shears that I used on the back, you can see those are also square nails and you want to make sure that fit, you have the appropriate nail, another thing is your pliers need to have pliers that are appropriate for the material you are using in your pliers, it will be stamped with the size of the material it is made for, if you take a pliers that is not appropriate, you won't have it 3/8 Grip, you get a 3/8 inch collet that goes into the collet to have leverage there.
shoeing a draft horse   tips and techniques part 4 rear hoof shoeing
Keep your hand on the face of the anvil when you are working on a shoe so that the hot slag doesn't fall out and burn your arms, another thing is to keep your elbow in when you are working, because if your elbows are too far out you have no stability, so pliers appropriate for the thickness of the shoe, nails appropriate for the shape of the horseshoe nail holes, yes, I have it. The hot fat Kong is here, which on smaller shoes this end works great to hold on to on the larger shoes, they are modified there so you can grab the nail hole and go to the hook to hold it.
shoeing a draft horse   tips and techniques part 4 rear hoof shoeing
I also have Bloom bumps. Forge and this is a square head. I can drill a new nail hole if I need it along with the Perl and I have a pleat and on her back shoe I lengthened that pleat and gave it extra width on the outside with this Forge blossom pleat. I also have a horseshoe box made by Bay Horse in Cynthiana Kentucky and that is a handy way to store my tools so they are at a level I can easily get to and I know where everything is so when I reach there I can grab them. the right tool for the job I'm going to do my knives are up there so I can grab them they're on magnets I can reach in and stick my nails in here everything is in a place I can reach it works great if If I'm on a flat floor because I have rollers I can roll it around the horse, you need to remove that box when you return to the anvil so the horse doesn't come in and get scared or injured the proper hammer is also important when I'm working on the outside of the shoe I'm going to use the flat side and give around there if I'm working on the inside of the shoe I'm going to use the round side if I'm using another tool, say a folder, then I'll use the round side of the hammer to hammer another tool, whether it's a folder or Perl or some other punch , your anvil needs to be enough, this anvil has a very wide horn, a big horn so that when I want to shape it I can create space there to get more roundness in that shoo or I can take it out here to close that you win.
It also has a large, flat face so that when I'm leveling the shoe. I have space to work on it. An anvil that is too narrow. It becomes very difficult to work on your

draft

or shoes. Get the appropriate animal. Another thing is that this is a 200 pound anvil, which is a great shop anvil, but. It's not very practical to drive, but if you're working on these 1/2 big shoes and the appropriate weight for your anvil is also very important. I suggest 150lbs or more to work on fretwork or shoes, a vise is a great idea. because we can get it in there and whether you use a rasp or a grinder, it's a good way to keep it solid in there so it doesn't go anywhere.
Proper safety: Wear glasses because pieces of metal bounce everywhere. safety glasses and wear them when you do your work in the forge. This is a hoof pick. I put in a small block brush. I put it there. I made it so I can get the hoof out and then I can brush it too. Brush it I carry two knives and I'm right-handed, so when I use that knife I put it in my palm like this. I always keep my other hand behind the knife. This fits very well in my hand. I have a place for my thumb, it also has a hoof spike there.
I can get those nails out. It is important to have a sharp hoof knife and to keep it sharp have it there to remove the pebbles and stones that are going to dull your knife a loop knife is also a useful tool especially for the Frog and I use it exclusively on the Frog for cleaning the collateral groove in the center groove when I buy a resto has three lies when it's new I have a clean handle there I use it only on the hull, that's all we care about on rafts. I use it on the non-steel hook after I've used it on about 25 horsepower, it dulls a little and then goes to a second life as a dark handle and that's for tightening because that's scraping Anshu, it scrapes the metal, so that's its second life, then in its third life it goes to my anvil holder and here we totally abuse it by scraping the hot metal and when it is done with this it process of being a hot rasp and it is time to do something ornamental with it or recycle it.
I also have a huge butcher's planer, so when I'm working on a shoe and with the gas board you're going to get slag that I can brush off. That slag is also useful if I have a used shoe and that shoe is full of debris. I can clean that shoe before restarting it and the shoe certainly has enough life to be able to restart it again next season when you need the traction device, care cart horseshoes, strong and reliable whenever your horses are working on rough terrain, the Grooming Cart Pull Series is your most likely choice of horseshoes with the strength to hold and detect the hook, the most demanding environments will not overwork these shoes to see the full line of Grooming Cart Horseshoes and to find a dealer. farrier products near you visit WWF are their products quiet when I'm pulling that hind limb back I'm going to let them relax there and then I'm going To pick him up slowly and just rest him here my armpit is on his hawk so basically I'm sitting.
It takes me a while to develop the limbs to be able to do this. This is an 8 doe, which is pretty big for him. This is a century size hook. I'm going to use this on this is a 7. We're going to clean these heels like the ones on the front, but with this fold they're fuller on all sides, it's going to give them subtle traction. I have snow in the mud and this will allow it some traction. The

rear

is the engine, so we need a little more traction behind and we have in front. I'll do it with this Kirkegaard century shoe.
Are you ready for this big guy. I'll adjust the rear shoe behind you. I have quarter clips, there is one on each side. I'll put them on the angles of the hull wall, the angle with the wall. I noticed that on the inside branch, so the fourth one needed straightening. The point I want to leave will become my warm point. The radius I want at that point will be where I put it on the horn, so I want a curve that tight. I'll press T straight ahead and that branch will come out the same. The outer corner marks that radius and beyond it knocks down the interior with the net.
I'm going to put more feet in the heels and adjust them. It has tight space in the back leg, especially the left one, so I'm going to increase the width of the net on this heel by simply increasing the length of that stream using a squeaky tool. I'm walking along that crease all the way to the end of the shoe and then, because he's traveling so close, he brushes the inside of the contralateral player with his right. On the back, when I shape the shoe, I want to make sure that the inner branch is placed around that firmly and everything should be rounded and smoothed in KCU to interfere, it will make it flat.
I'll take it to the hard end, try it. For the shape, you swipe very quickly to feel if when I swipe over time, I see how much shoe hangs, I flatten it out, make adjustments, go back to the helmet and check it again, so I noticed there's too much on the collateral groove here. I'm going to have to clean it up a little bit and I can do that with the scraper and again I'm just going to work on the collateral focus here with the scraper again. I created a curvature for it by filing it. I want to raise the heel.
I'm going to use the round side of the hammer. Tap it lightly just before. Check it this way. Check it this way to see if it is flat. I need to scrape this finger a little and we'll check it out. once again I'm going to nail this back shoe I'm going to pull that foot forward I'm going to put it on the support okay and I'm going to put my shoe underneath it in the position that I had defined before and the adjustments that I need to make I need to make them right now. I can see I need to bevel the inside a bit.
Here it is much easier to do it now. Then wait until the shoe comes off. I just went one more lap because I don't want to. that shoe resting on the sole that could exert enough pressure and make the horse or make sure the shoe fits well. I put the horse in the natural range of motion. I bent my knees. I have the horses. Hawk in my armpit. I put the nail at the same angle that a hoof wall started at, remember the trademark is towards the inside, put the nail in once the nail bottoms out, that's far enough away, you'll notice the horses start to react if you keep hitting that right now, that's far enough away.
There is no need to hit it at that point anymore it becomes painful for the horse I put two nails in it I will leave it on the ground I will check it to make sure everything is okay and if it is not what you want take it off make the adjustments put it back in if we put the mark registered on the inside each nail has a trademark if you look at the other end of the nail it is conical you will see the conical shape there so when it is towards the inside that conical shape I pulled that nail out of the hoof wall so I started, I put my finger where I want the nail to come out.
I point to that finger. I nail the nail. It's starting to get tougher. I move my fingers. I finish nailing it and my goal is to have. a uniform line around the hoof wall as to where the nails come out just because a manufactured shoe has a certain number of nails does not mean you have to fill every nail hole if there is an area completely compromised leave it all over means outward, so my goal is to have a uniform line around it. You could also be using the hook jack at this point to drive the nails from bottom to bottom, stop now you bottom out, stop mark inward, set the pace at the same angles of a flock.
I will remove the nails using a urethane hammer. I'll place those hits that start the curvature of that grip well and then we'll place them. We'll bend those nails at 90 degrees to the hoof wall. Rats that shudder make themall as if they were. about an eighth of an inch down and then you lose it all. I don't want to do those crunches, but I don't want sharp edges that will catch the horse or one of his friends. This program is available for purchase order. your copy 363 0 to 7 or visit www.hp.com/recycle, a magazine dedicated to

draft

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