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Sew a cross body bag - Myra - Lizzy Curtis

Jun 07, 2021
Hi Lizzy, today I'm going to show you how to make Myra. Isn't she someone to admire too? Sorry for making a joke, um, but it's a nice slim

cross

body

bag, okay, so, um, the strap is long enough that it will be a

cross

body

bag, but I'll actually give you the instructions if you just want to turn it into a shoulder bag. There's a zipper pocket on the front, so you've got that zipper pocket on the other side here. Let me show you. Let me undo it. It's so you have a nice secure zippered pocket there and behind it you have another pocket, so you have two pockets on the front and then inside, you almost see it, you have a zippered pocket inserted.
sew a cross body bag   myra   lizzy curtis
Well, for something you know, money, maybe it's not a very big pocket, but obviously you can make it bigger if you want, but use the sizes of this pocket here to make it, so it's pretty easy, it's a pretty easy pattern to cut. um the straps are just a long thin strap attached to the side seams there's just no hardware that's what I'm trying to say there's also no hardware to close this now that on my part was totally deliberate I just wanted it to be pretty. a little bag that you can wear crossbody on your hip and you just have to take it in and out, hence the zippers if you want to put money in this bag too, but it's great if maybe you're going to the beach and uh you just wanted to carry a few things with you, your cell phone could fit in here, but I mean, it could also fit in there, but you have those two zippered pockets for added security, so it's a really good option.
sew a cross body bag   myra   lizzy curtis

More Interesting Facts About,

sew a cross body bag myra lizzy curtis...

Good size too and if you wanted to of course you could make it into a more glamorous fabric so maybe you could wear it on a night out maybe if you go you know when you're going abroad and you're on the seafront. If you want something really a little glamorous, maybe you can dress it up with a sparkly fabric which would look amazing. Now we have used a light decoration that is more than an interface in some ways, so our normal h250 that I use is more than that, but It is not enough that it is uncomfortable to wear the lining and all the pockets are stabilized with h250, so which is a pretty sturdy bag and decorated on the front of the pocket and on the back and front of the bag, I mean the back is smooth.
sew a cross body bag   myra   lizzy curtis
It's a gorgeous fabric and I'm using something glorious for the one I'm making now, so this is Myra and this is pattern number two of this month's patterns. The other pattern is the hat behind us, the bucket hat, which is just lovely and the fabric I'm going to use now will almost match the pink, you won't believe it, but there is pink in the fabric so I think it will match, I don't believe it. you know what that is wait and see anyway let's get going it's pretty easy to make we've got the zippers to make but other than that it's pretty easy to make the first thing we're going to do is make that pocket that goes on the front because it's already made, it's almost like you're making a bag to attach to the front of the body.
sew a cross body bag   myra   lizzy curtis
You already know the body of the bag, so if you're used to making bags, it's actually a pretty easy process. That's the fabric I'm choosing now, I know you're going to say, well, it doesn't look anything like the hat in the background, but I want you to see that there are pieces of pink flowers here, the center of the flowers in that particular case is pink. so I'm stretching the limits a little bit so that the front pocket has the decal light on there and you can see that it's flexible but it gives it rigidity without making it too much.
I'm not a big lover of foam and will avoid it if I can, but of course you could do this with foam if you wanted, it gives it the same kind of structural look. Okay, so we have several parts in the pocket, as you can imagine, we are actually making a bag, but we are not going to sew those three seams down, so the two side seams and the bottom we are not going to sew everything that goes inside the body of the bag, everything will be clear, so let's take out our parts and movements so that I have the lining that is pink in the pocket and goes on the inside, so let me show you that it continues when this part where the cream part, that's the pink, okay, so you have that different.
The lining and interior is cream again. It's going to be pink on the bag we're making, but we also want it to be very clean. I can stick my hand in there lining it like this, it's not necessary, but I just wanted it to be really stylish and I think that's what it is, so we can, we need a zipper, so I have a zipper here in that beautiful mustard color to match, It won't match the pink, but let's not worry. About that too much, um, we also have to put the lining on, so let's make this kind of fake bag if you want, so we'll switch to a zipper foot and then we'll be ready to rock and roll, okay?
So a zipper sandwich, it's the right side of your best fabric, let's try to make it so that you can see it on the right side of your best fabric, the right side of your zipper down like this, I know my zipper is longer, You know I will. longer zippers and then the lining, which is not the pink lining, this will be the internal pocket lining. It goes down on the zipper, so if I maybe show you from the side view, it might be easier, so let's do it on the other side. around so you have the right side of the lining you can see you have the right side of the zipper up and you just remove my slider and that's why I always cut my zipper too long so it gets out of the way you don't have to worry so and then the right side of our fabric is not so glorious looking down now look this is directional so keep your thoughts on the fact that it is directional so let's turn this around because this is the top of the pocket, so we want the zipper to go on top, right side down, and you can see I've cut my interfacing, whether it's the Deckerville or your regular interfacing, I've cut it a quarter of an inch longer cut all the way around so that we don't have that bulk in all the seams and then we're just going to stitch them together now of course, pin, use your quilting clips and get it so that you're in a position to sew it comfortably.
I'm just going to sew it as is because that's what I do, but you just want to make sure all the layers line up. so just when you look at it before you sew just to make sure everything lines up, look at that's the right side of the lining fabric, the right side of the zipper, look at the teeth of the zipper and the right side of the fabric. down and we're just going to sew that normal stitch length of 2.4 okay and let's go now because the stabilizer has been cut smaller, this one you won't necessarily follow at this stage when you close this zipper because we're actually making a seam allowance larger.
I'll show you when I'm done and you'll know what I'm talking about if you want to stick to the quarter inch that's absolutely fine but I like to sew pretty close to the zipper teeth so I'll let you see that so you can see my sewing, where is the end of the thread? I thought there are some points there, you can see it's just a little bit. I bit the cover and that's perfectly fine so the other thing we're going to do is just check my pocket, I need to sew that front pocket and again all I would suggest you do is bring all your layers together and pin and that keeps everything in place um and it keeps the lining where it's supposed to be instead of rolling up and of course press it, iron it, make sure it stays beautifully together so just stick a couple of pins in and put them in.
Doing this means that all the layers stay where they should be there. We just line that up again, so I'm just going to press with my finger so that's what it looks like right now. I have my zipper slider on the end. this is what it looks like on the back and I would like to say that I would like you to put it under a hot dry iron and press it, but to speed it up, we'll continue now, you might like your zipper. um teeth a little bit closer to the seam, you know you don't want a lot of zipper tape showing and that's fine, the pocket will be it won't make a difference losing what um not quite, maybe an eighth of an inch um on the on the zipper tape, it won't matter how deep the pocket is, there's almost nothing to worry about, so if you want to make sure that your fabric, your sewing line here almost touches the teeth of the zipper, that's fine, okay, do that, um. my zipper phone doesn't work.
The zipper foot doesn't allow me to do that and I'm happy with that. I love this zipper foot. If you can ever love a zipper foot. I love that one, so let's do the same. again for the other side, so this time we have the pink to go inside, let me show you that instead of the cream now we are going to use pink, so it's almost like the other side of the bag, so it has to be the nice fabric okay it's not the lining fabric the lining fabric is in there so again we're going to put the right sides together with the zipper teeth facing the right side of my fabric down let me do that so that you can see it better. so there's my right side, obviously there's the right side of my zipper, the right side of my fabric down on top of there and then the lining up underneath and if you're not sure just rewind but let me show you on this side of the camera that is It's not so easy when you put the second to show you really well, but there's my best side, the right side of my lining up to the pocket, and then if I lift up all the layers that I just sewed, there's the right side of my lining and the right side of my zipper are fine, as long as yours looks like this you can't go wrong, so again we're going to put all these layers together and I like what I said even because this is also stabilized with a kind of stabilizer of medium weight iron which really gives it rigidity and to be honest I was thinking about this you could actually make this a reversible bag we'll talk about that right at the end so there's the second side and your two lining pieces on the back so you can see is like making a bag um so I'm going to take these pins out now just for a moment if you wanted you could sew the top together let me do that right.
We could sew this other side, which we could also do to keep it neat because you still don't want the zipper slider to catch on any of that fabric, so again just line up the fabrics, this is a pretty important part because when we go To attach it to the body of the bag, you want all the raw edges to fit together pretty well. I mean, it's not a big deal if they don't, but you want them to be pretty accurate, so I set that other side. I've pinned it, you can see, I've pinned all the layers together and it pulls the lining to where it should be, so when we do our top stitch it's perfect and I just hold it, hold it, pull it and it goes through. a pleasure, but a little bit of pressure, you know dry ironing is fine, so both sides are done and what you're going to do now is literally fold it in half, there we are, so now the front pocket is done In the pattern, I suggested you top stitch or I'm sorry, baste all the way around to keep those layers together, but we could also put it directly on the front of the bag, in which case we don't have to worry. about basting this and then basting again because that's really what we're going to do.
Make sure you move the slider. You can keep these bits for now and don't have to cut them. It depends on you. they're going to be removed almost next, but what I want you to do is make all of these layers that you just sewed together nicely, so now they're layered beautifully and we're going to get the front of our bag back, don't forget that we're using directional fabric, well you may not be, but I'm actually talking to myself, so I take all your layers and start with one corner so you know everything. of those layers are placed well, maybe use quilting clips now because you have quite a few layers and just make sure they are placed well, okay, so let's do the other side, so line them all up again. and there we go when you come to check the zipper teeth, if the zipper is already open, you just want to make sure those zipper teeth are sitting nicely on top of each other, sometimes it's a little difficult for a machine to get through. those layers, but ideally that's how you want it to be, so if we look at the side camera here you'll see that they're all lined up beautifully and all your edges meet at the bottom, that's where they really meet.
Well, you can see the quarter inch cut out there and I say you can trim those pieces of tape if you want, but all I'm going to do is baste from here to Over here is just about keeping all those layers together, so I'll come back to my normal foot. We'll need the zipper foot again, so I'll have it on hand. We have to do that zipper on the inside, so, oh, I just put the zipper foot back on, let's get the right one, like thiswhich, dear, okay, so let's put it under the machine. Now the seam allowance for this bag is a quarter of an inch, which is perfectly acceptable, so when you're doing this basting it wants to be less than a quarter of an inch, but we don't want that.
The seams show when we turn the turn, so keep that in mind and if you want to draw a line so you know exactly where you're going with this, so I'm not going to go over my closed teeth, so I'm going to take my padding. You also trim and up the stitch length, so this is just a case of just grabbing all those layers so they sit nicely along the bottom. I think it's lovely to make something that you think is going to be a Christmas item that you're going to take with you no matter if it's a holiday at home you know you're going to stay in your own country or if you're going abroad you know when everything It's nice and safe, it doesn't matter as long as you enjoy the process of making the bag, I think you will, so there we are sewn everywhere, top to bottom, so just, um, cut that tape off the zipper, I actually did it with my best scissors, happily, now I know, my paper scissors are getting very, really, you can dull them, it just doesn't want to cut, there we go, so there's the front of our bag. "Isn't it glorious and that zipper really works well, right?
So we've got the lining there to make it look beautiful, right? And it's very clean and crisp, that's the idea you're going to get." enjoy wearing it and then inside we have that touch of pink, you can see if I fold it back, here we go, you can see, I'm trying to catch you so you can see a pink flower, but everyone can see as much as they can. Look, they're not the navy blue ones, anyway, you've got the pink one in there, which is just glorious, so the next step is to make the inside pocket and the other inside zip pocket.
Now, this is very easy to do, okay? You have all the measurements on the pattern so you don't have to worry, but what you're going to do first is you're going to place your big piece, um, let's do it, oh, that's the right side and your smaller little piece. It's the same size as the front pocket, like I said about cutting, it's a lot easier because you only have two sizes to cut more of the strap, so this is the piece you want, but you want it right side down, so? Alright? goes and you can see the right side and the wrong side so let's measure and I'm going to write here so I can see let's do it on the side camera actually let me make it so it's upside down so this this this goes It's going to be the top of my bag, so I'm going to measure the amount I need shown on the pattern.
You have a picture of the actual bag I made with these lines. drawn and then we need the same distance on both sides here, so we'll just measure it and again, yeah, we've got it in place, so if we lift it up, you can see I just made a mark, you don't have to do that. but I'm doing it to make it a visual image for you, I'm just going to do it the right way so I measured it from top to bottom and there's the top of my fabric and this is the same distance on each side if you do it so maybe it looks a little bit better, so from this edge here from this raw edge, not the edge of my interface from the raw edge, I'm measuring another inch down, so I'm just going to mark it here, so it's just Really. it's a little guide and then I also want to measure an inch from this raw edge here, so I'm just going to make a mark like that to make a nice little square and let's do it again, just line it up with this mark here and there. so there's my inch here and my inch there, okay, you can see there are two marks.
Now what I want to do is draw a straight line from there to there so that it is the one we just measured earlier from above. one inch, so I drew my cross line and then I need to measure a quarter inch and I'm going to draw a line again, it's not strictly necessary, but it's nice to have a little bit of a guide, so there's my quarter inch. but the one I really want is the next one, so you could measure half an inch. um, let's line it up. It's a habit, it's a habit to do it like this. is get some pins and pin all these layers together because you're going to sew around that box so let's put a straight one in the center if I rotate it so now it's in the right shape so you can see what it looks like and how I said that there is a picture on the pattern to help you so you have measured this from here to here and then you have measured from there to there and then the same with this.
I mean, I could tell you what that exact measurement is, but sometimes it's better to increase it slowly so you know you've got it in the right place, so what we're going to do now is sew along the length of the box. It doesn't bother us at all. This center line, anyway, is just for me to cut, but we're going to sew along the top down here, along the bottom and up, okay, now I want you to make a small stitch because we are going to cut out our box. I want our seam to be really very small, very neat, very strong because we're going to turn it inside out and you want it to be nice, you want it to be nice and square as you can get.
Sometimes it's hard because at the end of the day I'm using two layers of linen and two layers of stabilizer the h250 which is pretty good it's a medium weight so I just want you to think about that because it's quite a bit of pushing I mean , okay and you might want to use maybe a lighter weight interface, you'll see how you go, you'll see what suits you, I can tell you what suits me, but that's not always what you like, I just want to make sure I get there right to that corner where I started, which I have now and now I'm just going to follow some stitches, I don't do a back stitch, I just go over the top of my original stitches, okay, now that we've sewn around the box and if If you want, you can iron that, it makes no difference, but you may want to iron the marks on the front of the good piece.
If you have made marks, you do not need to do so. It's just a good look for you when you see me do it. so let's just iron everything out um the next thing you're going to do is cut now you're going to cut on that center line look at that center line that goes through there you're going to cut that when you get to In the corners you're going to make a little V, so I'll do it and then I'll show you, so I fold my fabric in half and just make a little cut because I'm working blindly backwards.
I don't see what I'm doing there, but I can see on the front, so I just make a little cut and then I cut and go up about a quarter inch from the edge of my seam, so I'll show when I've done it, but I'm just cutting that center line before I iron all my marks, I'll show you that might make a little more sense, sometimes it's hard to see the seams, so let's show you. here so you can see what I've done, you can see the v's very, very clearly, you can see all of that now, you could if you wanted to crop out a little bit of this, no not all of it, I would just trim out one layer, maybe to get rid of some of the lump, so let's iron all of that now and we'll remove these marks, in fact, I'll keep it because we'll rely on the box that we've made, so that's all we've done.
It wasn't that bad, I had a lot of pieces in there, so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to post it, so all of this fabric I'm going to post through the hole, so literally just do it. that just takes it all the way and then you just have to move it, it won't want to do that because it goes against everything it wants to do because it's already hardened, but it will if we go to the side, see, there we go, just give it a little movement to get those corners out, you'll see what it looks like as this is the part you really want to try and make super straight because that's where your zippers are going to go and you want it. to be neat you actually do it so just spend a moment pushing this seam out and ideally you're going to steam press this because you want it to look beautiful and you want it to sit straight and I'm a bit naughty because I used one of those big presses old steamers that you buy to do laundry, you know your sheets and your bedding and all that kind of stuff, great thing, but it's amazing to see that I would just hold that and press it flat.
In a moment, but we'll work with what I have, it's picking up a lot of stuff, so let's do that on the front, we want it to be as neat as possible and like I said, there's a lot of bolts going on, can you see how? it's just that it rises up a little bit here, but if you steamed it, let me show you correctly that it would now lie flat. If you wanted to make this a reversible bag, I would take a moment to make sure it looked really cool. Very flat, but if this goes on the inside of my bag as a lining, by the time I put the zipper on, sew it, and put it in my bag, it will be totally fine, so this time we have our zipper.
I'm going to wear navy blue and you think why aren't you wearing pink, but maybe you forget about my fabric, my fabric, I have the pink, I have the navy blue and I have the mustard, so I'm trying to make it work, but if it's reversible maybe you don't want to wear navy blue so it will go through the mailbox. Okay, you're going to make sure that the zipper slider is in that spot. Mailbox and see what it looks like, sometimes it's hard to see in the light, but it's really nice there. I'm sure when my John edits this video it will look beautifully, but just to make sure it's in the right place.
I'm going to use quilter's tape, I'm going to put it on the zipper because I can really position things really well with quilter's tape and I'm going to put it on the edge of my zipper tape, so I'm going to put it on and then you I'll show that I'll go further than necessary because I can always remove it, just check and make sure that, oh yeah, okay, too much, let's cut a little bit, okay, then we'll do the same thing on the other side. You don't have to do this, but you know what we have, these tools to help us.
You can also take a moment and even if you are a very experienced sewist, it is something you may want to do. Life is easier, so there's the tape, you can see it pretty clearly and I put it on the right side of the zipper, so my zipper slider is right here. Can you see that? If I remove the backing paper and this washes away. Not that it makes a big difference if this is for a bag, well, it is, but if you're going to put this on the cruiser tape, if you're going to put it on the clothes that you're going to wash, it will wash. away, but most of the time you've covered it with a seam, haven't you?
So I'm just putting this on top. I'm going to move my slider a little bit, put this on top and just make sure that my compressed teeth are sitting right in the center and then you'll find that the center of your entire mailbox tends to lean tends to lean like this, so you just want to bring that and that's where the tape really works well so take a moment to adjust it usually it's the middle part that I have to adjust yeah there's just another little curve that's better so if we look at it now you can see what it looks like, so all What we're going to do is sew around the box, the mailbox, we're just going to sew on the top, I'm going to put the zipper foot back on.
Sometimes you can get away with not putting the zipper foot back on, especially since we're sewing pretty far away from the zipper teeth, but to be safe, I'll put that foot back on, so even though we've moved a little bit and We've messed up a little bit, the zipper still stays absolutely in place, so you're going to sew about 16 of an inch away from the folded edge of the fabric and I just want to make sure that it's positioned correctly. Sometimes the length of the stitch will determine if you end up in the right place for the box because there is a little thread there.
I don't want it to slide right so let's go along the box and if it moves or squirms just adjust it a little bit that's better and when you get to the zipper slider you might want to just lift the zipper foot or Whatever foot you're using, lift the needle up a little bit and just move it to the side and again I just want to make sure we're in the right place with the needle and adjust it if necessary. it just comes from the other side and because we've put the tape right on the edge of the zipper tape, the padding tape on the edge of the zipper tape won't see anything if you place it closer to the teeth and You're not sewing that far into the teeth, you'll see, so keep that in mind, so we'll go back to square one and I'm just going to go over those first few stitches, that's all I need.
Oh, hello, thanks for stopping by. Actually, I'm going to talk to you about the gold club and I'm getting ready for our Facebook live tonight because every week on Facebook in the gold sewing group we do other things like free movement. embroidery tonight, so gold online sewing group, what's that all about? Well, if you go to my website lizzie

curtis

.com, you'll see the registration tab, click on it and you can choose between membership, but what you get each month is two different ones. super patterns especially for you and you know, when they go to the store next month, they will cost 4.99 each,so this is a real bargain for five quid, around 6.20 something like that.
You'll also get those two patterns complete with video tutorials, so why not join in today and join the online sewing group known as the gold sewing group? See you there, bye, so here we go, that's our sewn pocket or our sewn zipper. I'll show you the side camera. That's probably a much better angle to do that and this is what the back looks like, okay? I'm going to cut I'm going to use my best scissors. I'm sorry. I'm going to cut the closure tape. I don't need that tape as long as it's just make sure you put the slider there.
Okay, now we have the pocket ready, but all we have to do is sew it to form a pocket, so take it from the bottom edge to the top edge, line it up, let's put some clips in and all you're doing is sewing around those three sides there's no need to sew along the folded edge and you're just removing part of the pocket if you do that let's line it up it's better so you can iron this on if you just wanted to smile and It's still warm so let's give it a little fold, so let me make this pretty clear where you're sewing, I think you're going to get it anyway, this is what it looks like, so you're sewing from the bottom here. where the fold is up and down and as you sew you will move the part of your bag out of the way so you can see how it works.
When you get there you just move that part down and sew on top and then you move that side out of the way and sew there so it's pretty easy right? So let's move on. If I use my other machine, they are very quick to change feet, but I love this machine, it only does a straight stitch, but that's all we need most of the time, isn't it? I have oil on my hands now. I ordered this the other day, cleaned it and oiled it. Yeah, anyway, I already said, a quarter inch seam allowance again, so you can see it's not a huge pocket personally, I think it's enough.
Maybe you want to make it longer, in which case just lengthen the fabric I don't know four inches, maybe even, but remember you lose half because We're folding the fabric so that we're right at the top and we get to the last part and we just fold the bag down as we go, removing all the other fabric from the main bag, let's move our clips, so that's what you end up with and this is from the front, so you can see if you steam those little folds there in the corners, you would definitely apply steam or a damp cloth, something like that and it'll just be those little puckers.
So yeah, something you can do right, so we have our front done like this, we have the lining piece to put it in, don't forget the pocket goes on the back, so remember the order we have. the back part and then we have that part that goes to the back, so try to remember that those two go together because well, it doesn't matter if you have the zipper on the front panel, but generally you have them on the back. out of the bag, isn't it? So the next thing we need to do is order our strap and from memory it's 55 inches long so it's pretty long, now it's not very wide because we just want it a little bit thin, it's a crossbody strap. so we don't want anything to get in the way, there's no hardware, it's just beautiful and if you want to know what, you can just put it away and use it as an under the arm kind of situation.
You look at it and that will appear underneath and it's done and dusted, right? With that we're going to fold it in half, so I'm going to do a little bit and then what I do. What I'll do is go away, finish it, sew it and then I'll show it to you. If we look at the side camera here, this is a pretty normal technique for something like this and the four layers of fabric that I don't use. I don't want it stabilized, I just want it where we are using the fabric itself to give the strap a little stiffness, not much, but we don't really need a stabilizer, so iron the fabric as you fold it in half lengthwise . obviously along the entire length, so there we are, folded in half, you can see what it looks like, fold those outside edges up to that folded line that used up the entire fold you just made, do the same on the other side and then you are.
I'm going to put them together so that those are your folds. You can see how it looks like you're doing it like a bias tape, right? So if I hold it like this, you can see it and then you're folding it so you can say It makes a very narrow strap, but that's all we need for the bag, so I'm going to go away and iron this whole thing because we're just sewing for both of us. sides, although it is small, I still keep that seam on both sides. And I'll be back with you in a moment, so I sewed the strap just like I said, folding those edges again to get a half-inch strap.
I know it's pretty small, but that's exactly how I wanted it to be. You can make it bigger if you want and then we're going to attach it to our bag, but first of all we need to build the bag, we're going to place this on the side seams so that when you put the strap on, make sure it's all straight, all straight, it's not crooked, but what we're going to do is put our back and our front together so that our front is with a zipper pocket and there's our back, make sure you're using directional fabric, it's going in the right direction, with the sides right sides together and go down the side seams and the bottom quarter inch seam allowance, make sure all the pieces line up and of course you can pin, make sure your zipper slider is out of the way where you're sewing because you don't want to catch it with your foot or needle so take it off pin it like I said use your quilting clips so don't forget that too. you're going to go over that zipper again, so when you get to that zipper, just slow down a little bit, let your machine go all the way down and cross that bottom edge again, line up all your pieces now there's a lot of layers going on. here and I'm going to talk to you about how you can deal with the coating because it's all very stabilized and rigid and it's the coating that you can make the difference with and I'll talk to you about that when we get to that so I'm coming up the other side now and I'm just making sure my fabric turns out beautifully, going over my zipper, so going slowly again, making sure it's straight and then a back stitch to finish.
It's nice and strong, so the outside of the body of my bag is done. I'm going to cut the corners, but be careful because these are all pressure points, if you will, so we're going to turn it around and you can probably deal with it. With this better if you turn it now, I mean, we still have a little bit of work to do, where you might find it a little stiff, but just work on it, um, it's just one of those things because we're using that. Decoraville, especially in your pocket and bag, it will take you a moment to get through all that body and you'll get to a point where you'll probably have to get a small, dull tool to get it. there in the corners and I really work on it there we are, we're getting there, so if I get my, I'll get my wooden one this time, it doesn't matter which one I have a nice silver one somewhere, oh I can.
Look, it depends on how strong your tools are now because because of all the thickness, you may not get that really sharp corner that you might anticipate and that's because of all the layers, I mean, we've cut a lot of that decavill . and a lot of that h.250, you know, we didn't have it in the quarter inch seam and we cut the corners off, so it shouldn't be that bad, but just cut it off a little bit. If it doesn't come out the way you'd like, just give it a good squeeze with your hands, stick your hands inside that pocket, I've got a little thread in there that's really going to have to come out, so that's what it looks like now we have the bag to put together, but obviously we have to put the lining on it, but before we do that I want to put the straps on it, so you can have it inside out if you want please. whatever works best for you, so take one end and put it in the side seam, so if you look at it that way you can see that's where my seam is, so it's going to go through that seam and we're going to machine baste it. just to keep it in place so we'll do that first and if you have a machine with a free arm use that it's the perfect time so we've attached one side so make sure now that your strap is straight.
It's very annoying if you finish the bag and notice that you have a twist and you check it, and you can open these seams if you want, but there's not a lot of volume there because we didn't have any deckaville there, so again just baste. A couple of rows of stitches really hold it in place, so now we're going to put our lining together exactly the same again, so right sides together we're just going to sew along the side, actually just the two sides. , just the On two sides we're going to leave the entire bottom edge open and make sure it's the bottom edge.
You don't want your zipper pocket to be inside out, so we're going to go over it again, so just on the sides, a nice back stitch. over and over right to the side, so with this particular bag, like I said before, there is a lot of volume and when you put the liner inside, the corners of the liner may not fit into the corners of the bag, so what could you do? I could round these corners, okay, just round them and continue with the seams if I put my hand in the right place that way and then just bring the seams and trim them because then that rounded edge will fit much more easily on the bottom here when you put that lining, I'm going to keep it according to the pattern, so with it like this with the right side inside, we're just going to put our bag inside, don't forget to make sure, I think. we did it right, is put the zipper in the back, let's bring that up, I mean, you don't want to behave, make sure the strap is in, there we go and let's just make sure those side seams are on top of each other because if they twists now it's a devil trying to straighten out there, we get there, that's it, it's almost like it's a velcro area, that's not right now so I have my right sides together, so I have the right side of my bag on the side right of my lining, just check again, make sure you have the back zipper back and that you have the front on the front, I think we're good, just check again, so we're.
Now we're going to sew all the way around, don't forget we already have that turning space, that big turning space at the bottom and you might find that if you don't have a free arm like I do, I don't have a free arm. You may want to sew the arm from the inside, so on this side, if you have a free arm, it's easier to slide it in and do it from the top, so whatever system you have with your machine, you'll use it your favor like me. I mean, I don't have a free arm on this machine, so I sew on the inside of the bag, about a quarter inch seam allowance again, so I just insert that needle and now I'm free to maneuver all the layers, let's move them a little bit, that's it, now we have it, so just put all those layers together like I said, about a quarter of an inch if you go, so if you stray and it's a little bit more, please don't worry, just try it. and match those side seams because you might notice it and since this doesn't have an enclosure it's something that might catch your eye from time to time make sure it fits as well because you don't want any gathering especially since it doesn't have any hardware , just make your way through, it's a little uncomfortable, it's not as uncomfortable as foam, just make sure your bag fits nice and straight and actually if you have a walking foot. or double feed foot, use it because it makes a big difference when you sew layers like this, it means that all the layers will stay in place, so let's go back to where we started, this is what it looks like, so all I'm going to do is just bring my lining, now you can see why I turned my bag inside out because now the lining is much easier to manipulate than the main bag and obviously this needs a very, very good pressure, so that's what you need to end up with, now you have your lining and your exterior and this is the one with the zipper pocket, I can just see it there, this is the back, this is what it should look like there, let's go like this, like I say, you want to press this and press that seam there because We're going to sew that, so we want the seam to be as open and neat as possible, so to finish the turning space, you have the whole width, which is very easy, just fold it over a quarter of an inch. inch or so, maybe it's half an inch so it fits better inside your bag.
Now if you're going to make this reversible bag, I want you to think about how to finish it because you don't want to sew 10. so on the machine it wouldn't even have a hand sewn hem. I would think about some kind of embellishment, maybe you could add it to the bag to make it look really pretty, but it has a great chance of being a reversible bag and I'm making mine a good half inch and you'd be surprised how that will still go right into thebottom of the bag, completely. be careful when you get to the seams because of course it has a lot of layers and it's also going through the stabilizer, so there we are, we've sewn nice and neat, it's not very often you do my turn the gap, but it's easy when it's like that, so now all you're doing is pushing it in and again it's stiff, it's um, yeah, you have to work on it a little bit to get your Arnold Schwarzenegger muscles out, um , because it's it's um, it doesn't want to do what you're telling it to do, it just wants to be nice and straight, it doesn't want to bend, so I just have my hand there pushing those corners in nicely, I should say. right in the corner as best as I can, I mean, after a while they'll soften, they'll soften, I promise, just push it in there, we're not doing that bad, it's actually not that bad and when you look in you'll see that the corners of the lining just turn in slightly because there's nowhere to go so a curved bottom will make it look beautiful there so now all we have left to do is the top stitch so once again if If you have a free arm machine, simply cut this thread.
If you have a machine with a free arm, you are going to put it like this because we are using a flat bed without a free arm. I'm sewing on the inside, which is absolutely not ideal because I like to see my top seam on the outside. Sorry for licking my fingers there, in fact I might have a hard time doing this outside. I think I'll do it because I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to it. For the top seam, I'm not too worried about what the lining will look like if you press it and actually have it ready, it should be absolutely fine, like when we did the zipper, you know, putting those layers together, um. but if we use our stiletto or our quick pick we can pull on that lining and I'm sorry, the seam should be fine, let's turn up the stitch a little bit, that's fine, so make sure you don't sew the other side of the bag to the same time, okay, just put that part in there, that's all because we're using a fairly neutral thread.
You're not going to see this dramatically. You could wear a navy blue, couldn't you really? stand out, you would have to be very good with your topstitching or brave, oh my goodness, I will be very interested to see how they are made. I really want to see a lot of these made. My liner just isn't doing what I wanted. to do here, but it would have worked if I had pressed it, so take that time. I know I'm going to talk about this a lot, but it's really important, so I'm using my stylus again just to get that pretty seam out. fabric, isn't it such a pretty fabric now that when you watch this video, this fabric may not be available?
There's no point in giving you links because many times it's quite a few weeks before you see it and um. chances are it's either out of stock, out of stock or out of season, plus some of these aren't right so there we are, we're done, we've sewn the top, I have a few pesky little threads. me but I'll try not to look at them um so there we are that's

myra

you can see the zipper it's on the back phew it needs a press it needs to go on my machine and pressed it's not that beautiful I love it and Of course this is a cross body so Let's see if I can prove it.
It's going to cross there and it's going to hang pretty low on the hip, so I would say make sure it's not too long for you. I like a lot. it's quite long it's 55 inches maybe 50 inches is enough and again I've given you all an alternative if you want a normal crossbody shoulder bag which tends to be a little bit longer so there we are apart from a good press, that's done, so we have our pockets there, so there's the pink, you can see, we have the lining there, that pretty pink and the blue zipper. I really love how it looks, you have the pocket here and then.
Of course, inside the zipper pocket you also have that area and that's just a basic lining going in there could make it something really special, couldn't you? um yeah, that's how it's made, so it's

myra

, so we have one with little foxes on it and of course we pulled and put the leash on there, right? And you can see I don't know if you can, but can you see the difference between one that's pressed and one that's not? So it makes a difference and I'm torn, I can't wait to put it in the machine and press it, but isn't it lovely?
Really cool little crossbody bag to have on a day trip, maybe go buy it. you just need a small bag inside your coat so it's hidden against your body and doesn't have any kind of bulk and it will prevent you from carrying everything by the kitchen sink in your bag that day, you can only carry the essentials so this I'm Myra, this is one of my new patterns released for May 2021, so it could be June, July, forever, even next year, when you see this, but I think you'll realize how lovely it is and also how which is a great gift.
So Myra, I hope you do a lot.

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