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Setting The Ignition Timing On The Honda CB175/CB200 Family Of Motorcycles

Jun 10, 2021
Hello everyone here I am Bernie with a common engine which is the common board mudder.com on the internet and today we are going to show you how to set the

ignition

timing

on this cb 175. The same process will apply to the cl and sl. 175, as well as the cb and cl200, so stay tuned. Hmm what I have here in my hand is a set of

ignition

points and this happens to be for our cb 175 here and all the points are essentially an on and off switch that causes opening and closing. the ignition coil to fire the spark plugs at the exact moment of the engine so that everything runs very well now, also the

timing

is very important because when the timing is perfect as it is supposed to be, the engine starts easily, runs well and really You can take your bike at the highest rpm, but at full redline when it's off, all sorts of things happen to the rideability and drivability of the bike, so it's important that even more is done, so it should be done every 1500 miles.
setting the ignition timing on the honda cb175 cb200 family of motorcycles
Now I know that seems like a short Interval in terms of card miles, but in bike miles it's actually a good distance, usually about once a year. Before timing the ignition, we need to do a few other things. It is also good to change the oil at 1500 miles and clean the oil. filter and do a cam chain adjustment as well as a valve adjustment, the first additional timing is kind of the last part of this adjustment equation to get your bike back on the road, so here is our rotor in the engine and it has important information that The first thing we need to know when

setting

up the timing is this little piece here which is the index mark and that's what the index mark refers to.
setting the ignition timing on the honda cb175 cb200 family of motorcycles

More Interesting Facts About,

setting the ignition timing on the honda cb175 cb200 family of motorcycles...

The rotor rotates counterclockwise. There's an arrow pointing counterclockwise and then we also have this f mark and this one. t mark, the f mark is the firing mark, which means this is when the spark plug fires and the t mark indicates top dead center, where you would also adjust the valves and then we also have this other little mark that we made in reference to do the cam chain adjustment you can watch our other video that shows the whole process so when this mark lines up with the index mark that will be where the spark plug fires and that's how we set the ignition timing when those two marks line up.
setting the ignition timing on the honda cb175 cb200 family of motorcycles
When Honda built the 175 and 200, they got their ignition points from two different manufacturers and each of those manufacturers has a physically different style of points. Now they work the same way, they perform the same way on bikes, but they are physically different in how they are made and the plate they mount on is also physically different, so it is important to know what style or manufacturer you have for be able to get the correct ones for your bike because it could be one of two variations, now this was not the case. It happens on all other bike models but on the 175 and 200 it has a style of dots that I call the bigger dots are made by a company called Nippon Denso.
setting the ignition timing on the honda cb175 cb200 family of motorcycles
There was also an equivalent clone made by a company called Toyo that can be seen in some of the microfiche references, so the Nippon Denso nibs are larger and have this type of large rocker arm, the other brand of nibs were made by Hitachi Hitachi Punch are physically smaller, the rocker arm is smaller and they have a small cam adjustment screw. the side to make opening and closing the points gap a little easier again, either is fine, it's just important that you identify which style or make of manufacturer you have on your bike so that you get the right ones when you do. a tune up now regardless of the style of the points they fit the same way the synchronization is done in the same process I just have version a or I have version b and that's it the point coverage is off and I do it What we have here is a single set of points which is relevant because the 175 and 200 have a 360 degree crankshaft and that point is activated every time the piston goes up versus, say, a 350 or 360 which has one set of points. in two specific left and right and that has to do with the fact that it is a 180 degree crankshaft, so it is very easy to get the set in our case on our particular bike from the 175 and 200.
This is a set of Hitachi points as we noted above and you could have a Hitachi or a Nippon. dense style and the screws on these are a little chewed up. I'm going to go ahead and take out the screws, change the allen head bolts, but I'm going to remove the plate and show you the advanced mechanism here. because I want to talk about this is our advanced mechanism and in these 175,200 advanced mechanisms, there are actually two lobes in the camera, now you can see how it increases here and then it increases on this side, let's set the point gap, let's to try to set it here at the highest point of the point, the lobe of the point here or this cam load here, so let's see how it moves up and we'll set it here. and then 180 from there approximately is where the end of that little weight ends, which is approximately where the high point is right there, so this set of points is used, but they are in good shape and we can use them again.
I would recommend removing the point called the rocker arm from the shaft and lubricating it with a little grease and then we are also going to clean the contacts here, this is where the electricity goes, between that little disk there and that one. disk there and the easy way to do it is to take some sandpaper, fold it in half and place it between the two contacts and then move the paper back and forth to remove the dirt and corrosion from there, this is a kind of Ignition system 101 basically keeps going until we get it nice and clean, so we clean and lube our points and we go ahead and reinstall the bolts that are outside the head, which makes the adjustment process much easier that the old chalk screws that are there and what I'm going to do now is turn the rotor and set the highest point of this chamber to touch that little rocker at the points.
I'm going to use a 12,000 or 0.3 millimeter velocity gauge, the gap is supposed to be between 12 and 16. I like this error on the narrow side to set the point, so let's go to 12 and basically we're going to place this feed gauge between the points here. You can see how I can move it so that our stitch spacing is a little bit on the wide side, so I'm going to loosen them and adjust the position loosely. Now these Hitachi points are clean because they have this little eccentric screw here that let me close the points and open them, not all points have this type of feature.
Most don't actually have to just shoehorn them in with the notion of a screwdriver, but this one does, so it's pretty nice. Let's find the place where a little bit of resistance is right there. I can feel it. Take my Allen wrench, tighten it and we'll check again. It is important that you adjust it where it has the slightest amount of resistance. on the feeder meter and that way you'll know you have the correct spacing set. The next step in this, actually, I'm going to go set the timing, which means I'm going to loosen these two bolts that hold the plate here.
I'm going to turn the plate left or right to find the right position to make sure the points open up when our f mark lines up with our rotor and we're going to do that with a test light here and a test light. It tells us exactly when the space between points opens. I'm going to take my alligator clip. I'll hook it right there on the end of the bolt. It's very specific that I only have it on the bolt and it doesn't touch the plate. or the spring, it has to be right there on the head of the bolt, we're going to take the other end here, I'm going to put that hole for the screw here that is grounded, turn on the power, turn on the off switch and we'll start turning the rotor and we will see the light come on and our light is on, which indicates that we have power running through the coil and then up here to the points and the point gap is open and therefore the light is on, We don't want to waste time, we want to make our adjustment pretty quickly because our coil is energized, if you're going to take your time making more adjustments, you're not sure of the position, go ahead and turn off the kill switch so you don't have power running at all. through the system unnecessarily but let's do this quickly let me go ahead and turn it back on I'm going to turn my rotor counterclockwise I'm going to find the place where the points are going to close that means the coil is going to close It's charging and I'm going to try to find the place where the light turns on.
It should appear here any minute. Somewhere out there. Did you see a little flash earlier? It was the place where our light came on and our f mark is just beyond our index mark. Our time is pretty close right now. We're going to do a slider adjustment to get everything lining up perfect, so I'm cranking the motor again. and this time I'm just going to bring the mark up to the index mark right there lined up and I'm going to screw up my points plate now, okay, I'm going to go ahead and loosen this bolt and loosen this. bolt now now I'm just going to grab this plate and I'm going to turn it and find the place where the light just comes on right there it didn't take much if I come back it's off by a hair, let's go to the right there I'll hold it in position, I'll tighten my first bolt , I'll tighten my second bolt here, yes, we're still making contact.
Great, get back to the rotor. I'm going to turn it one more revolution to see if everything lines up perfectly. I moved my test light down, I have the power off, I'm about to turn it back on here, the power light is still off and we're going to very slowly approach the f mark here and see when the light comes on, hopefully When everything lines up like this, the last thing I'm going to do is put a little bit of grease right here on the point cam because that's what's rubbing on that point follower and we want to make sure it stays nice. and lubricated, we're turning and hitting the road, let's do it.
There is another degree to which you can check the accuracy of the bike's ignition timing. It's called dynamic timing and it's done with a strobe timing light that looks like some kind of laser gun. There are all kinds of these out there and this was more common in the old school automotive world in the 70's when these bikes were built, so if you have one of these you can totally check the timing with the engine at warm idle . and see if your timing works or where it should be, however we found that the method with the test light doing it statically is pretty accurate and generally accurate enough for the average guy driving down the street.
This again concludes our ignition timing setup on this

cb175

. This applies to the other 175, the CL and SL along with the CB200 and CL200 again. We want to emphasize how important it is to do this every 1500 miles as part of the standard tune-up process along with Oil Change Filter Cleaning Camshaft Adjustment and Valve Adjustment, if you do them all together at that regular service interval. , your bike will always run at peak performance making it much more fun to ride, as always, this is Brendan with stock engine, it's a stock dash engine, dot com on. Internet thanks for watching, be sure to follow us on Instagram and Facebook, subscribe to our newsletter through our website and of course subscribe to this YouTube channel and we'll see you next time.

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