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Professional quality paint job for under $100 (Step by step)

Jun 03, 2021
hey guys welcome back to classic octane i'm taylor so today is finally the day i'm going to shoot an instructional video on how to

paint

a motorcycle so i'm going to

paint

the gas tank also two side covers and the fender front the process is basically the same for all the components so I'll probably just focus on the gas tank since it's the biggest we're going to go through all the materials I'm going to use as well as each the

step

and the process I go through to paint these things so let's dive into it so quick little disclaimer before we dive into the tools and materials I'm going to use this is a process I've developed over the last couple of years that I still it's a cheap paint job you're still using tools that are readily available you're using materials that aren't very expensive you're not cheapening everything so I don't want you to think it's you ed knows shoddy materials it's just not um

professional

level i'm going to say because it doesn't require you to have a big air compressor with a blow dryer you know and a high

quality

paint gun that kind of thing like this is very easy to do on your garage paint job, but I hope you'll see it in the results. that you get 90 95 of the way to a

professional

paint job for a fraction of the cost this is an example of use the exact technique that i am about to execute to paint this gas tank and you know i think the average person would do it will be difficult picking this over quote pro level paint job but just wanted to put that disclaimer in there, technically it's a cheap paint job so keep that in mind as we go along so let's get started on the tools. and the materials i'm going to use so the first part is tools the only real tool i'm going to use is a d.a sander dual action sander this is pneumatic they also make it electric this is not by any means means required it will just help you know to speed up the process give a bit more consistent results i will throw a link to all this in the description below so you can do this by hand 100% i will use it in conjunction with a grit sanding disc 220 we'll also use a 400 grit sanding sponge and 600 grit sandpaper with one of these little foam sanding pads that's it when it comes to tools let's move on to materials for materials we're going to start with a good

quality

wax and grease remover, this is very important in order to remove fine dust, fingerprints, grease or anything left behind.
professional quality paint job for under 100 step by step
We want a nice clean surface before we spray any type of primer or paint. a simple automotive filler primer this is from dupli-color the following will be the actual color itself so let me do a quick deep dive into why i choose the colors i do so what i do is go and find a car or truck that has a very similar o t The exact color I want, for example, the silver bike I just showed you a second ago is a concrete gray toyota. what i was able to do is just find the color code for that search online and find a spray touch up paint that is exactly that color. up express i have no affiliation with any of these people this is the one i used and it turned out to be good quality so if you find a color you like just look it up online by the color code and get it yourself. good quality i would get two cans of whatever coat color you want and i would also recommend going this route because it makes it so much easier to touch up the paint in the future so you can get like a little pen the exact same color and you know within two years if you accidentally scr look at your gas tank you can quickly go in there and do some touch up paint and it won't be perfect but it will be very close to what it would be if you had some kind of custom color on it which would be really hard for that matches, which is why I like to go with an automotive grade type of paint and also use dupli-color on many projects.
professional quality paint job for under 100 step by step

More Interesting Facts About,

professional quality paint job for under 100 step by step...

I've had very good luck so far. The last thing that is very important is to go. to be our clear coat so I like to go with an automotive grade 2k clear you can see it's got 2k here which means it's actually two parts not mixed yet so I'll show you a little bit later in the video. we're going to use that little red button on top to activate this tin once it's activated you only have like 24 or 48 hours to use it before it really hardens in the tin and is completely useless but this kind of clear will give you a much more durable clear coat you know it can actually wet sand and wax and you know, treat it like you would a standard automotive clear coat and it sets up nice and easy too so it's a little more expensive than a normal clear cut but i think the results are 100% worth it ok we can start working on this so mine is a bit stripped down already if yours isn't already you'll want to take the cap off the gasoline there's a little rivet that goes through you can just pry it off the side exactly the same for the latch itself get that out of the way also go ahead and remove your emblems on the side they literally pop off there are two little metal clips that They are pushed into these holes to hold them in place.
professional quality paint job for under 100 step by step
We also remove our petcock just to get out of the way it might mask that too but it's five seconds to remove it so it might as well what we need to do now is assess the overall condition of the tank itself We're looking for any dings or dings or something like that that we're going to need repairing this one is actually in pretty good shape hopefully I'll walk you through real quick if you've got some dings and dings and stuff you have to fix you might need to do a little bit of work here i can see a little bit of ripples and stuff but we'll see when we take it apart a bit how it looks no major damage or anything no rusting no kind of catastrophic issues that we have to deal with so we're ready to Go ahead and grab our dad with that 220 grit sanding disc and I'm going to blast this whole thing.
professional quality paint job for under 100 step by step
We're not looking for this to come down to bare metal if it had some rust spots or some bubbles where there might be some rust. be under paint 100 get some good quality paint stripper spray it here get down to bare metal which isn't entirely necessary if the paint that's in the tank is already in pretty decent shape it's just the wrong color so I'm going to go ahead and start sanding we'll see what it looks like ok another tool I don't think I mentioned before that I'm going to use a dust mask like this just a standard n95 dust mask for a lot of the sanding and then i will wear a full respirator when we are spraying chemicals later, i am also going to get a lot of dust in this process so be prepared for that.
I'm going to go ahead and hit this with some wax and grease remover on a microfiber rag just to get a lot of dust off. so we can see if we missed any spots we're just looking for anywhere that's still shiny we didn't hit that surface we want to remove any and all shiny spots because shiny means the paint won't stick very well or the primer won't it's going to stick really well on this one clean all of this overall this tank is in pretty good condition but i think we'll do it a bit yeah there are some little bumps and ridges here i'm not really going to worry about that we're still going to address them in a later

step

right now yeah there's a couple of little bits and pieces i don't know if you can see it from as far as here where i didn't sand enough here along this edge we still have some of that previous clear coat that shines, so I'm going to go ahead and hit those spots a second time.
We're going to clean it all up and I'm bringing them back because it's almost time to start masking now that everything is sanded down with the 220. I went ahead and punched. Remove the side covers and the front fender. The front fender was chrome. You don't want to paint over shiny chrome. outside of the gas cap area because we want to keep that metal bare but we want to paint the latch assembly so make sure we don't mask that part we'll throw a small piece of tape over where the petcock goes and it's all masked im going to go ahead and hit it again really thoroughly with the w waxing ax grease remover you really cant do this step too many times make sure every square inch is nice and clean and i use microfibers for this you could use any like you just want to do it like a lint free cloth I don't want there to be little hairs or anything getting stuck in here because guess what will show up at the end of the paint job ok so now I'm not going to touch it on any of these anymore important surfaces, the mounting point back here is going to be fine and anywhere below is going to be fine because those are less crucial, but again I'm going to set this outside so lo so we can get some airflow and we're going to hit it with probably three light for medium coats of this primer so I'm going to do a pretty light coat just to give us a base we're going to wait 10 minutes between each coat so relatively I'm going to call it a medium to light coat at first go a little heavier on the second and third coat just to make sure it doesn't run and you don't want to be too heavy in one spot but you also want to get a really good coverage and this is also a filler primer so we want it to build up a decent amount so we have something to work with when we start to finish sanding and get our nice smooth surface so I'm going to set this outside, put a couple coats on it we'll see how it looks so i went ahead and let it sit overnight as you can see i just dusted with a very light coat actually just a primer a little bit or darker there for our guide coat now it's time to sand it down so part of the reason I left it on overnight was because I'm right at the threshold kind of temperature wise.
I'm not supposed to paint or primer or anything when it's below 60 degrees yesterday we were in our mid 60's today I don't even know if we're going to hit 60 so I'm going to have to do the rest of my painting and everything in, so i'm going to set up some kind of temporary spray booth and i have my little heater going we can make sure we keep this area above 60 degrees. I'm also going to add a little more dry time between coats to make up for that as well, so I got my 400 grit sanding sponge. I'm going to get started. to sand all this down the purpose of this guide layer is to be able to tell us where we've sanded and also as you sand if you see a dark spot that remains you know it's now a low spot that you either need to keep sanding until it's gone or whatever we might end up having to do is use a little bit of glazing putty but i'll cover it up when we get there so i'll start sanding it down and we'll see what this thing looks like so i spent i don't know 10 or 15 minutes sanding this thing this is 100 uh the most important step of them all uh you've probably heard the saying before but the key to a good paint job is everything in the prep work almost nothing is spraying the paint it's all this step if i hadn't done a guide coat, would have had a really hard time figuring out where the low and high spots were on this gas tank it looked pretty good even before it was black and you had to go into the light to be able to see these little marks but this coat g uía makes it super easy where we have sanded down to that original black paint which is our high points this is a body line this is a body line so we hope to see that these low points here need to be filled in or they are going to be very obvious and very wavy in our painting especially the darker the color it's going to go with the more likely it's going to show those blemishes so what I'm going to use is a bondo product it's called glaze and stain putty so the idea of ​​this is it's super thin i mean we're not piling on a ton of material here all we're looking for is like tenths of a millimeter thick just to even out this so if you have a bigger problem area you need fix you can use a more traditional style bondo and bondo gets a really bad rap f or like people think that means the repair was done poorly or cheaply.
Almost all paint jobs use bondo. the size of a dent and just break a bunch of bondo in there and sand it down because eventually it will separate and crack and fall off and that is where bondo wraps badly if you are using it very thin and very lightly uh bondo is a great product there is a reason why it's been around for, you know, 50 years, so let me get some kind of an applicator spatula, I don't know what you'd call it, and I'll show you how I'm going to apply this glazing putty. I have my little tube here and then I have asmall plastic.
I'll call it spatula. It's a little flexible, so the idea here is that I can match that outline and we're going to spread it out. as thin as we can but you also want to make sure you get just enough to know how to fix the problem you're having because what we don't want to have to do is come back and ask for more later. I'm just looking for as smooth an app as possible. you can also put it right on the blade here and 90 of this will be sanded down in the next step so you don't have to worry about it being absolutely perfect we're just trying to make sure we get it all those low spots like a little dent right there will come on and your hands are actually going to be a much more important tool than even your eyes at this point and you'll almost never get it perfect on the first go, that's kind of one of the most time consuming parts of paint jobs is waiting for things to dry up. i noticed there's one or two more on this side as well so we want to make sure we add them pressed at the same time i don't think i noticed more it might be a small one so since our temp is a little low we'll probably have to give it to this I would say 45 minutes to an hour to dry, we don't.
I don't want to try to sand it down before it's ready to use so I'm going to turn on my little heater we'll be back in about an hour see how we did so this has taken forever to dry at this temperature but this side is going ok i started with this piece to be 100 sure but all i'm doing is continuing with our 400 grit sanding sponge i don't know if i covered why you use a sponge instead of just a sheet of sandpaper the idea is kind of sponge cushions where your fingers are so you're not sanding you know with three pressure points it balances the pressure of your hand and makes it easier to get a smooth surface so for this one here i'm just going to sand a bit over he the idea is to just blend that spot into the surrounding area so that you have sort of a perfectly smooth transition so just change a couple of different angles you can start to check it by feeling that with my hand m My gut tells me it's actually still a little low I can feel just the smallest amount so we'll probably touch that up again so I'll just stick to that for now move over here and I've got my little air gun here too, but since this sponge gets a bit clogged, you can turn it off. i sanded all the spots down to what i think is pretty decent honestly i think this side is going to be good i guess i'll have to do some more work here to figure it out but at this point i just blotted everything out with wax and grease remover now I'm going to hit it with another coat of primer the exact same primer we've been using which will help fill in any fine sanding scratches and give me a nice clean starting point to start this process over again until this thing is perfect the primer is all over dry looks pretty damn good i think there's a small there's a very small dent right here that i missed so i want to point out that i apply a little more thin coat now the idea here is i'm going all over the surface really I'm just trying to make it nice and even.
Feels pretty good if you're just looking for a spot with a little extra buildup of primer or something. It's okay if we continue because I'm going to dust this off with one more. a light coat of primer before putting any kind of color on it, looks pretty good so i'm going to keep at it. I'm still using my 400. once it's all good and I'll even hit it with one last coat. of primer as I just mentioned, once it's dry I'm going to switch to 600 grit before applying our first coat of color, ready to move to the last step before the color is 600 grit on our little sanding sponge. wrap it up and i'm just going to run around this thing and just kind of light l and hit the whole surface this is just to get rid of any blemishes in the primer coat anything that may have fallen off or little contaminations something like that all the heavy lifting is done done you know i'll be like really smoothing everything out so we're not trying to remove a ton of material here we're finally ready for some color so i set up my paint booth which is definitely not just my workbench with a curtain , that's for sure, I put the tank. a swivel stool with some paper so you can turn it around and paint both sides nice and evenly without having to touch the tank itself.
I have my front fender in a little box right here with the sides taped up. I don't want it to be green that's ready to go and I have both side covers just set it up off the cam because I'm going to paint those as well so the first thing we're going to do is paint the bottom of the gas tank so the Bottom is not very important for obvious reasons, but we don't want to leave it with just the primer color. I wish it was at least green, so I'm just going to dust with a light to medium coat, we'll probably just do one coat. underneath so we don't use a ton of paint I just want it to be green to match the rest so I'm going to go ahead and remove that and probably have to give it 10 15 minutes since it's going to be sitting in that fresh paint when we go to do that , so I'm going to remove the bottom part of this, I'm also going to do the back of both side covers with just a light coat and then I'm going to continue with the important things which is painting the rest.
We're ready to start painting the top side, so I'm going to be nice and light. The color will look modern. It will look like neon green for the first couple of layers, but don't worry, it will get a lot darker as we continue to add layers, so let's go ahead and definitely wear a respirator, especially if you're like me and it's cold outside, so you have to paint the inside ready for coat number two an important thing to keep in mind is don't start spraying while you're facing the tank you know you want to start over to the side and then come over because you'll get a super heavy spray on that first half a second and you can put too much paint on it and cause a run or cause some kind of weird looking spot so just start the tank and kind of sweep trying to keep a consistent distance the whole time another quick note is uh when you feel the cans start to run low these cans don't last very long so I recommend at least buying two don't keep spraying with because if it's spraying and it moves a bit at an angle when it starts to empty, it will start to spit and stutter or splutter a bit and that can cause some kind of weird extra droplets. beat it up and give it a rough finish so when you feel it getting nice If you're going to tip the can you better move on to your next set so here's a little glimpse of how it goes should be all our color we need, you can see you have a decent reflection there we haven't clear coated this yet so we have a good reflection a good solid coverage what you're looking for here is any kind of I guess dry spots or any spots that be a little lighter than you want make sure your color is very even everything on mine looks pretty good looks like two cans was enough to make a tank a front fender and both side covers we were a little worried we'd run out but so far so good so I'm going to let this sit overnight I'll bring you back in the morning and we'll clear it up so I went ahead and let it sit over the weekend s implement i can't cure there really no reason to wait that long it just worked that way for me so now i'm ready to kind of look at everything ok and close what i'm looking for is any uh drips anywhere we like to splash and have like a big blob of paint something like that luckily I don't see any issues that we need to address everything looks really good paint went well and even I don't have any complaints about this so if we had a problem this is where I would take it I would say that 2000 grit I could do like sixteen hundred I would probably start with two thousand uh you can do it wet or dry I probably recommend doing it wet wet the sandpaper you know dip it in some water take a little spray bottle and the water acts as a bit of lubrication and with 2000 grit sandpaper you just go over it. until you get that nice smooth finish to get rid of that little drip or run and it's all good and even again and you're good to go luckily we take our time and I don't have to worry about any of it so we're ready to move on clear coat so the first thing I'm going to do is hit the whole thing with a new rag and our wax and grease remover just because of any dust or anything like that that got on it and of course we were touching it by hand which we can Please leave small fingerprints and those will show up on our clear coat.
We want all of this to be perfectly clean. I'm going to go ahead and clean my fender and side covers, so to activate our clear coat, we just need to remove this. little red button on the lid so we're going to put it on the bottom there's like a little post sticking out and we're going to push it down like this until it goes all the way in I like to hold it down now we're going to shake it I'd say at least a minute maybe time two minutes make sure all the activator and everything is mixed well and then we're ready to spray so this clear coat make sure you have a good quality respirator don't just wear a dust mask this is very very toxic It's for that there is literally extreme danger right ahead.
You don't want to breathe this stuff in, so I'm going to do basically the same technique that we did with the color. You know don't go crazy. the coats, we'll start with a nice, you know, I'd say light to medium and do a full coat, wait 10 to 12 minutes in between and go ahead and I'll keep doing coats until it runs out of light, so we'll probably I guess three, maybe four, probably four layers total so here she is after I'm going to call this three and a half layers huh and why I call it a half layer is once the can gets really low as I mentioned with the color you don't want to have that can also, you know, horizontal otherwise it can start to splatter so for the fourth layer I really kept the can vertical and dusted the sides a little bit and a little bit over the top and same goes for the fender but you can see the finish we were able to let you know for uh in the garage no paint booth rattle can paint job i think it looks pretty good and it's only going to get better as it gets dry so you can see there's a little bit of I guess you'd call that orange peel or something in there right now this clear is actually self leveling so as this clear dries it will actually smooth out a bit , you can probably see in this tank, i painted this with the exact same clear coat and it's a lot less kind of ripples there so a lot of it just works as it dries but i'm extremely happy with the result.
I think this looks very, very good. probably two days just because I don't have a reason to touch it or move it or anything before you want to give it to him I'd say 24 hours at least before you actually start handling it just to make sure everything has plenty of time to heal everything is good to go The worst possible thing would be to have this thing you know with a big fingerprint or something because you got impatient and picked it up or moved it or something, so I'll leave it all here drying for the next couple of days and I'm going to say that this is nice so one thing you can do as I mentioned with the color code is if you have a run like a little sag something like that you can wet sand this um to clean that up so once this is fully cured you can go back with a little bit of 2,000 grit maybe even a little higher and just wet sand it very carefully and it can iron out a lot of cobblestone imperfections you'd be a little surprised how many mistakes you can correct after the fact you just don't want to be too aggressive you don't want to sand through this clear coat again you know the color and then you'll have a dull spot so you just have to be careful I would honestly wait probably a couple of weeks before from doing any kind of similar compound or polishing or anything because you want the clear coat to be 100% cured.
I know some auto clear coats can take up to a month or two to be officially fully cured, so you just don't want to go in there. there before everything is totally hardened you want to give it a little bit of time to set it up but I'm pretty excited so that's what I'm going to call it in this video because all the hard work is done so now we're looking forward to it it dries. I'm also going to wait a day or two before removing the masking tape and reinstalling the top of thegasoline and stuff so as not to cause blemishes or anything on the clear coat while it's curing.
I think that will be it, so I hope this video has shown you my technique, maybe given you a little more confidence to get what I think is a really acceptable quality paint job at home with easy to find materials. what will I do. uh link it all in the description below if you guys have any questions or anything please let me know in the comments. Thanks for looking and see you in the next one.

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