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Pastry Chef Attempts to Make Gourmet M&M's | Gourmet Makes | Bon Appétit

Pastry Chef Attempts to Make Gourmet M&M's | Gourmet Makes | Bon Appétit
Jesus fan what the what is that that's too much perhaps a more concentrated stream of air damn it hi everyone I'm Claire today we're in the bi Test Kitchen and I'm making

gourmet

M&Ms M&Ms are everyone's favorite candy right so everyone's favorite iconic All American there's no wrong occasion for M&Ms I eat them in a very particular way I like to bite really gently crack it like an egg all the way around and then like kind of bite off the candy coating and then shoot a chocolate and then just chocolate I think that there's may be no better candy than peanut M&Ms I'm just so good I love peanut M&Ms because they're less sweet because the peanut oh my god these are so seriously they're so good I'm not familiar with the other kinds oh I remember crispy is about puffed rice and then what the crispy is I mean not bad at all hazelnut spread feels kind of fancy caramel I want this sugar but I'm afraid it's gonna be too sweet one is really really good and then like three you feel sick Oh English toffee what

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s it Thai coconut I don't like the looks of these I think you should try these are emphatically not good here so I cannot get to see what this is you'll know Oh No coconut bubble bath one like you accidentally lick a bubble so you have to

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me another mouse it is the ultimate M&M interesting this might be the first for my

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swear I don't just

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the classic probably the best...
pastry chef attempts to make gourmet m m s gourmet makes bon app tit
M&M product the peanut yeah yeah here I'm okay just try one I know of it try one but I'm good you have to try one you can eat a half even half is good yeah you'll still be in baby it's so good used to have a little shine on the exterior okay thin crispy exterior okay they managed to suspend the peanut perfectly in the chocolate yeah this is interesting yeah I think you got just want to be a little a little more of a challenge and you'll pop gee hockey hockey hockey still acordes green ass there's lots of consensus around peanut M&Ms being the superior mmm although I will always have a soft spot for original I feel better about making peanut M&Ms than I do regular eminence weirdly it just might be easier to figure out like the mold situation about with with a peanut minim so I actually like that idea is good to me you're trying to bait me and say that's not going to that Hardison later on I can edit it so that then yeah I think it'll be fine peanut M&Ms it's a pretty well toasted peanut like golden brown all the way through it's not pale it's not always the same thickness of chocolate all the way around the peanut itself so like this one is a larger peanut and this one is like a smaller peanut thicker chocolate I'm feeling like this gives me more license to have them be it like a little more regular not perfectly uniform it's just hard for me to think of a way to perfectly suspend the peanut in chocolate...
pastry chef attempts to make gourmet m m s gourmet makes bon app tit
if I'm not doing it in a mold I've got I'm not sure about it otherwise their each one has an M on it I would really like to see that on video how they get the M on it is a very very thin very sort of shattering candy coating they are pretty solid this one is kind of egg-shaped and it's like at its longest point it's so about two centimeters we're gonna get you um what they call those uh you can measure things just with a little bit to two pings caliber right one of those do you have your jeweler thing like no problem to get it I bought it so what you do is you put this to your eyes and then you just focus with this that's what I do uh-huh where's that like four carat one a very interesting thing that I noticed it looks like there's multiple layers of the bigger candy coating preliminary layer a white sugar layer and then the come in the color it almost looks like a coconut like a cocoa butter coating they

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a candy coating and then a color you think so it's nobody it looks like in your racks it you know I mean yeah yes Claire what are you seeing Wow when I can't tell nothing no I can see I'm just oh God time for my favorite part reading the ingredients milk chocolate read the seas sugar chocolate skim milk cocoa butter lactose milk fat peanuts soy lecithin salt artificial and natural flavors close parentheses sugar peanuts cornstarch less than 1% palm oil corn syrup dextran coloring includes blue one lake red 40 yellow 6...
pastry chef attempts to make gourmet m m s gourmet makes bon app tit
yellow 5 blue one red 40 lake gila six lake yellow 5 lake blue to lake blue to carnauba wax Dom acacia it's a lot of lake colors I've definitely heard of the lakes are not great for you the best thing to do is to go over to the computer and do a little bit of research so M&M is a flagship product of the Mars Wrigley confectionary division of Mars Incorporated the candy coated chocolate concept was inspired by a method used to allow soldiers to carry chocolate in warm climates without it melting and you see a thicker layer of white and then a thin layer of the colored coating we watch this video now why do you provoke me because I just gonna hold together very well holding the test strip did not said so I don't think it's tempered I feel comfortable to have a chocolate this point you

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you do it sous-vide it does the work all for you it's no big deal okay I think that there's four parts to this process one is really easy and that's toasting and salting some peanuts too will be tempering the chocolate and putting it in the molds to set three will be applying some kind of candy coating possibly in stages and then four will be that adding the coloring on the outsides I can't really do a lot without a mold I will look through where we keep all of the molds and see if there's anything I can work with there's anything the plan is we'll get the ingredients and materials we need we'll get started a day to be confident I'm...
gonna be gonna be careful be careful we're starting a little bit later today I already had lunch and then I proceeded to come over here and without thinking eat fifteen peanut M&Ms because they're so good first if you take a look at some of the equipment that we gather to help me with like the fabrication oh okay I love that overboard is just the right amount all right this will look familiar to anyone who remembers the Oreo episode this is something called easy mold which allows you to mix and form your own food grade silicone molds so this is like mini egg molds this could be really good for with peanut this this is a caliper which I didn't even really know what that was this is what I was talking about that was just gone also ordered you some fancy Virginia oh wow look at these these do look like fancy peanuts the egg is the closest shape we can get I think at this point but we can also play around with this let's do both let's do both I think I want to start on the toasted peanuts to start I'm going to think more about molds peanut M&Ms though irregular are not egg-shaped like they don't have like one sort of wider end and one tapered end the other option is making our own from this like food safe silicone putty that we got at Michaels so I might take out a sort of classically shaped peanut M&M and use that as the mold all right there we get there we go now I'm gonna use my molding stuff these are the two halves of the putty...
I'd mix them together when the color is totally seamless without streaks and then I have three minutes of work time to create the cast and then it needs to just sit for 20 minutes I'm trying to press them down halfway I don't really care how close they are to each other totally hardened so I'm gonna let this sit until it's cured 20 minutes while I'm waiting for this I think work on tempering some chocolate are you kidding I refuse to say for the probably twelfth time what type of chocolate is so I'm just gonna go to the tape on that one just pick your episode tempered chocolate is chocolate that is heated cooled and then heated again to specific temperatures so that the chocolate has a firm snap I'm working in such small quantities it's gonna be a little bit easier so I feel okay about it okay so I'm going to weigh out my chocolate equal weights milk and dark I like how soft and creamy milk chocolate melts but I like the reduced sugar and like bitter notes of dark so these are gonna go into the water and I'm going to wait it lifts contraption moves water and heats it to a very specific temperature so I have it on 115 I submerged the chocolate and so this is just going to slowly start to melt this is melting and coming up to its high temperature point all right do the 150 degree water is too hot to put your hands in 115 oh no I survived do you the tape ever know it so know that it came down to our low temp I'm gonna bring it back...
up to our working temp which is gonna be 95 but once this hits 96 I'm gonna sit here for the next 5 minutes and agitate it now let me pivot back to the molds here's how I'm gonna do this I'm gonna take little bits and carefully form them around each M&M hey Brad can you hear me a rolling pin real quick that means B nope just one as quickly as you can not I don't okay I thought they were all the same as long as it's I don't end up fusing the two halves I feel pretty good about it oh my I think it's stuck I should have greased it hey how does something bad happen don't worry there no nice nice nice good but what happened was the two yes the two sides of the mold kind of fuse we wrote a rescued it and made it better thank you okay so here's the two halves this side is really like two thirds and this side is kind of one-third and they fit together like this I do have to be very certain that I have lined up the molds really well but there is a way that they that it naturally wants to fit together so I don't think that part's gonna be too challenging the right chip peanut should fit very easily inside the mold but without a lot of room on any one particular side I'm gonna pull out one of the bags to start working with it I think I'm going to skip the part where I chill one side I don't know I'm just gonna wing it see what happens so I'm putting a small amount of chocolate in followed by the peanut because I...
wanted to be suspended in the chocolate and not be pressing through to the very bottom of the mold so I might actually end up using this whole bag to do this half and then I can use a second bag to fill the other half of the impression and then combine them question is how does this fit together so now I'm gonna chill this and wait for the chocolate to set come back tomorrow and see how they look I'm so excited to look because if it works out then we're gonna have we'll have like thirteen peanut M&Ms part way done well as a first pass maybe it's not that bad there was definitely areas where I did not put enough chocolate like this is a good one I can just gently smooth out these edges and then I have a fully coated chocolate but the size looks pretty good like the overall proportions and everything I think look good Wow suppose like a very like dim statement but you mix peanuts and chocolate it tastes a lot like a peanut no mmm so let me clean off these molds I'm going to get them in some hot water and then start all over with the tempering process making two more bags of chocolate and now I'm going to think about the candy coating what we learned from watching the videos the candy coating is sprayed on in like dozens of coatings and then left to dry so emitting out at the airbrush sure and see we can play around with that oops this is our official

gourmet

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s air pressure that we got on Amazon and we use this last for Reese's peanut...
butter cups where it did not work but I was glad that we had it as a resource if I can

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a sugar solution to

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the candy shell just the final layers of the shell I just had food coloring to it and build up the color that way it's what I'm thinking Sam I'm not figure out this down I mean I think about it is this how does this work hey Brad I don't know how to use the airbrush sure the airbrush sure the airbrush machine I don't know maybe gun it again hold it I'm gonna

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a sugar solution and 360 grams of sugar you're gonna need a bigger jar okay so this looks good and by that I mean it's clear I'm gonna airbrush it on and then the idea is that the water evaporates and the sugar like recrystallizes and so eventually with enough layers it'll look white it's my idea okay that close because I probably need to do that many sprays and instead I kind of did I did more than that but like how many times do I have to do this to build up a candy shell that's like one millimeter thick like 1,000 times we don't we don't have time for this let me just try dipping it through the fan I know oh yeah but I need like a real fan this thing's are gone off the rails so I'm trying to encourage evaporation this is just the one coat it is evaporating put it you know not getting like really even coverage either so I want to try rolling it in cornstarch here I'm just gonna put this right here okay cornstarch I mean it...
doesn't have really any flavor it's doing what I wanted to do which is kind of filling in some of those rough areas hopefully creating a smooth surface where everything will cling to it think that the one with the cornstarch did have a better coating I don't know how these are gonna be I might have to come up with a plan B well this already feels like plan B plan a was the airbrush I'd have to kind of sit so I can evaluate I'm gonna go back to the chocolate tempering and focus on filling the molds these are molds are chilled but fridge temp not freezer temp what I'm gonna do differently this time is I'm gonna be more aware of how deep I'm pressing the peanut into the first half and I'm gonna just fill more overall I think I'm getting worse at this because I put so much more chocolate in this time I want to

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sure that the molds are in fully in contact so I'm gonna wait this down and then chill it okay let's see oh my god they look so good the chocolate looks good adding the extra chocolate and making sure the molds are really full work there are some areas where the molds met and some of the chocolate formed a seam probably will just use like a paring knife to smooth that off but these look really good I'm really happy with these I'm gonna do one more round alright so is it about this this just goes on top right now I'm gonna take a little dab of chocolate and I'm gonna basically smooth out the surfaces of all...
of these the smoother the surface the smoother that candy shell will be I'm gonna get my molds out and pop out that last batch I managed to

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these look worse I put these aside not I'm a little upset about this this is that original mmm that I dipped can you see really really really really really close up there's a thin white layer do you see that do you need the eye loupe see the little white outline so I have an idea about addressing the method so it's more like the actual method for making peanut M&Ms which is using sort of like a drum to rotate the candies constantly while the syrup dries so we don't have a big candy drum in here although I've been asking for one for years but in the meantime I'm gonna try to fashion my own palettes better because of centrifugal force balance spinner like they won't move so I might try to use the bowl the KitchenAid maybe I move it at an angle I have these like rejects from earlier batches and I'm gonna do a test with them oh it's 100% gonna crush them oh god I just found centered in your plan here Dan had an idea he's a salad spinner and put the bowl in it which I was like it's definitely not gonna work but I think it might work the idea is to

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sort of like a homemade candy pan where the M&Ms are constantly in motion and they get layer upon layer of syrup drizzled on them and then that evaporates and because they're constantly moving the coating is really even anti smooth...
you don't want to help I want to

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a drum like a candy drum like a candy pan yes five on one I'm gonna add of the syrup to the bowl Oh oh my god you know this reminds me of like the Powerball so what worked about that was it did get the motion that I was looking for of like constant agitation what doesn't work is one there's no air circulation inside and - I think I do read you the syrup without boiling it to get like something like it went wrong so this is your truck yeah what a bad idea was Dan's idea I think holes about as big as you can

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sure yeah but let's try this one first let's try the other salad spinner but don't how about we just do like this oh god I hate the noise with that name oh don't roll that's nice though I mean they look kind of wet but like they are they're getting coated they are getting coated it's working so this test was moderately successful I have a couple of base layers on a portion of the M&Ms kind of wish I was back tomorrow because it's kind of exciting we're really innovating here but I'm gonna have to wait I'm taking a break from shooting I'll be back in a month and and I gotta go happy June everyone okay weird even start it's been 30 days those last year I had forgotten what episode we were even on and then it all came back to me in waves I started to add the candy shell to one batch and like they look really good and I'm going to continue to build up that...
coating a little bit more I don't think will be a complicated process but it might take a little bit of time because I've let them dry in batches like coat spin let dry and then repeat a look I think once they yea let up like put them on a part on parchment let them dry in between batches sorry so what happened is it on no these wires good is it on yeah it's on it's just been so fast you can't see it right but there's no air coming out of it yeah this way a little bit here I got a bigger fan yeah yeah yeah leave it go in that dream okay this only has a couple of layers on it maybe I just do everything together well then I got a tape I gotta tape it okay okay they're no longer moving damn it did I just take it I can't really see what's going on in there but there we go here I think I fixed it I can't tell if anything's happening okay I think I probably put a little too much gear up in there maybe I just switch them out into a different Bowl get it right there thank you I switch sides okay they look good they're not terribly sticky which is great so there's been sufficient kind of drying inside the spinner and now I'm just gonna let them finish that drying process I think that the coverage looks pretty good like there aren't those patches where the syrup didn't quite coat so I'm happy about that they look great so you can see they have they've started to get that bloom and now we're just I think maybe...
like four coats is a guess it could be more I think I have a couple thoughts I'm considering by the time this coating looks fully opaque white it's gonna be too thick there's patches where the syrup is thicker and it's dried thicker and it's white and then there's patches where it's thinner and you can see some of the chocolate through there it broke apart a little bit but I'm still able to see the coating the thicker parts I think are too thick let me compare it to an actual peanut M&M oh okay we have a problem this is a much thinner candy coating these are huge now they kind of look like on Jordan almonds actually I'm so glad I didn't do like three more layers I have a new approach I need to actually take off some of the show meat maybe painting them or like rubbing them with a little bit of water to dissolve some of that show that might be a horrible idea maybe I wanna do is to the paintbrush so I'm using this paint brush dipped in a little bit of water to try to dissolve away some of the thicker parts it doesn't bother me so much if it's a little bit uneven and some parts are thicker and some parts are thinner I just want a smooth surface for airbrushing I think it's not bad I kind of given up on this plan because I did seven M&Ms and realized that they looked the same if not worse than the ones that were still in the bowl so arrived at a new technique which is doing this a lot it's like kind of working...
I mean I have what is basically like powdered sugar in the bottom of this bowl so I know that some of the coating is coming off and then I'm gonna just try to airbrush them because I'm like we gotta move it along I mean that's a that's a plenty thick sugar coatings let's try to air but she's white so we have a couple of things to try one is this edible art decorative cake paint which is white well I want to see what this looks like I've never used this before an ingredient listed is also shall AK at least if I get this on my clothes I'm not really staining it well let's see it works pretty well well what does not smell good it does not smell good it really smells bad it does smell like shellac they look like little rocks it looks like listen someone's driveway so I wish I look better but that's about that's par for the course I feel like my concern is that one they're not smooth - they're not going to taste good three the candy coating is gonna be more powdery than like crack kind of like hard I don't have another plan for the candy coating besides the one that I've been doing so this is just how they're going to be maybe the

gourmet

M&M doesn't have quite the shattering texture of the candy outside oh well where are the other airbrush colors so six colors I'm going to divide up the peanut M&Ms that I have into six groups and I guess I'll start with red I'll go and order so oh god I...
think with you guys I have to put on seven more aprons I have a feeling that it's not going to be the layer that I want it to be but let's just see the intensity of the color is good I mean I put a lot on there but it's so not smooth like at all I mean can we shoot all of the beauties as cross-sections because this looks pretty good even layer chocolate and even enough looking white coating it really doesn't like blood it's pressing me out yeah they look amazing mix that movie and they don't look very good I'm not thrilled with how they look but I think that continuing to work on something so smooth it's just it's like a pointless exercise so maybe I can compensate by like making a really great M on them for mmm but I think tomorrow I'm just going to go with what I have and airbrush the other colors it's not great really wish they were smoother wrote up yesterday we did this now that's better method it did not work it's a craze more like a powdery sugar coating than a like crack hard crack kind of shattering food colouring like settles into the kind of textured parts and creates a mottled finish rather than something like really smooth and shiny like this may remind you on the beginning you like these because the peanuts are not perfect themselves huh that is true or it's too much about it being like perfect as long as tastes amazing like I like what you're saying I could try to do like a thin royal icing it's...
when you dip it it does leave a really nice smooth finish thanks always fruitful Thanks I need to devise a system for dipping them or I don't have flat surface because it needs to be evenly coated all the way around basically need a way to like suspend these either from something or above something while they drive ooh but what if I does anybody have any fishing line okay so prop stylist often have stuff like this little little tricks of the trade I think I could just

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parallel lines as long as I pull it tight enough videos dip and then place like that so it's just there you know very gently sits on top of these tiny little wines royal icing is powdered sugar mixed into egg white it dries very very hard so I might get more of that shattering texture I'm starting this process I'm nervous so I'm going to dip so it like sort of spear the M&M dip and then gently somehow place it on to my rack so here it is so much smoother looking that's for sure hope it's not too thick yeah okay I'm so impressed really yeah that's all I care about thanks rota looking underneath there was like a big drip so I just have to be like don't like scrape it yeah but it's been like 10 minutes and I've done one so now I'm gonna go into production mode and get them all coated and then get them on my rack and let them fully dry she's taking way too long getting frustrated and bored my new plan is just to pour the glaze over oh because I'm I...
can't I'm gonna kill myself packing Divya chuan my concerns are that I'm not going to get coverage on the bottom so I have to be I feel kind of like turn them as I go Plan C Plan C of them just dipping them with my hands who's me I'm so hungry who's making pasta right now it smell like butter good news the deviled eggs being over there our coincides with me needing to let these dry the process went well I think my sense is that there aren't gonna be big marks from the fishing line okay so here here they are they are they're not sticky but there is like a tackiness so I don't really know what to think about that but we have to move things along gone through a few of these and I have not that many left so I'm gonna only do a couple of each who some of these are stickier than others the strings worked very well I have to say they definitely are smoother than before but I think it's an improvement I mean we'll know when the color goes on I seriously I need a hazmat suit it's really not covering that well huh they look so bad how many am i down to now it's pretty self-explanatory if they don't look good so I think it probably would be best practice to go back to this allegedly a hundred percent edible white cake paint this is the stuff with the shellac and I'm sorry just maybe people shouldn't eat these is it wafting it's wafting a Kevin I hit my head on it the royal icing was so thin and it had such a high...
proportion of egg white that it's like is it ever gonna dry ideas be sort of coat them in powdered sugar to basically absorb and at accelerate drying if these don't look any better than the red ones I did yesterday I quit so while these finished drying I'm gonna move on to the final phase which is putting an M or some kind of stamp on it there's the M I can't work I hate that airbrush machine I'm a kid I was really excited about it and now I just think it's terrible maybe even like q-tip or something like to dab it so here's the stencil I just cut off the M and taped it all around it I'm kind of action is to use the stencil to

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the letters and the royal icing it's not it's not bad so I can really only do this on ones where they're dry and like these are some of them are a little bit tacky still myself thank God it's her not me that it's her I think that's overly generous but thank you I'm so proud we'll see if this works but thank you Chris that means a lot there's a lot of issues here one it wasn't dry to the royal icing is too thick three I'm trying to put a flat thing on a rounded thing and that's not easy I think if these the white paint this is a tough one eh yeah it's pretty tough they look fossilized I'm gonna do better Nick the next one this just better dry really fast I put an M on want to get to color and now I'm done well I clean up these will continue to dry and...
then we move on to the final tasting phase thank God it tastes like a peanut M&M layers of sugar I need a warm people that the food coloring will dye their mouth it's my arm arm her about this bread is mine a little red I think you should yes which one do you think it's my homemade I wish I had almost like leaned into the like Russ take a look I was delusional if I thought I was gonna get like a perfect smooth shiny coating like this when it comes to the shape and the size pretty much nailed it thank you I'm happy about that I did use peanut M&Ms to

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molds to touch more bitter okay I appreciate mm-hmm Cristina has like a bad look on her face no I think I think we're really good thanks but I know I was surprised you can say surprised that you're surprised I like the way that she'll like kind of crumbles very gently Annie can you see how your tongue will all do it well I'll do it ready 1 2 3 if you wanted to like put a glove on to handle that I don't understand it's also gonna die your mouth you know I haven't done the side by side wait that cut really well are they using like food-grade shellac or something I don't know what they're using what are they that's what is the peanut flavor is great thank you it's really nicely developed it's there it's a president ha ha texture uh-huh the chocolate is nice the one thing I think I miss is just like in the M&M it's like you get that like the French of...
clear coat honestly like so the visual is not I was that there yeah yeah I've got like a nicely toasted peanut in the center in the center in the center uh-huh okay uh-huh also I forgot this and would like to add that it's a month old it still tastes good these Oh cuz I took him on a lot he'll see this one really got me at the end last couple days were frustrating but if I were to do it again I would

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a couple of changes but like ultimately I'm happy with the flavor and shape and all that so it was a qualified success unqualified success here is how you

make

gourmet

peanut M&Ms use food safe silicone putty to create a two sided mold enclosing a dozen or so nicely shaped peanut M&Ms let the mold cure separate the two sides and pop out the M&Ms roast whole skinless peanuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350 degree oven until golden brown and fragrant sprinkle the hot peanuts generously with kosher salt and set aside to cool fill half the mold with tempered 50/50 milk and dark chocolate and press a whole roasted salted peanut halfway into the chocolate fill the other half of the mold to the chocolate and joined the halves making sure that are lined and pressing firmly put a weight on top of the mold and chill until the chocolate is set pop the chocolate-covered peanuts out of the molds break away any excess chocolate and smooth the seams by rolling the pieces between your palms with a bit more melted chocolate set pieces aside chill six or seven...
holes in the top of the salad spinner

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a supersaturated sugar solution and let it cool completely place strongly covered peanuts inside a bowl that fits inside the salad spinner and coat with cooled sugar syrup stir and agitate the pieces together constantly inside the bowl in front of a fan until the piece is no longer stick together then place the bowl inside the spinner set the spinner on its side at a ninety degree angle and pull the handle to rotate the bowl slowly so the pieces tumble on to each other continuously spin until the pieces are dry to the touch and there is a whitish coating all over repeat the coating drying and spinning process four more times dip each of the dry coated pieces into thin royal icing and allow all excess to fully drip away suspend the dipped pieces on a rack made of fine fishing twine and let dry completely using fans to speed the process roll the dried pieces between your palms to coat in a light layer of powdered sugar then use an airbrush machine to coat the dipped pieces in an even layer of white food coloring and let dry completely again with the fans airbrush the M&Ms all over with red orange yellow green blue and brown food coloring to

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equal numbers of each color mm let dry completely using a stencil paint a tiny M logo on some or all of the M&Ms with royal icing and let dry I keep having this feeling that like I think there was an easier way this whole time what are your thoughts on that no one said anything