Modern Heritage Collection Re-Release - "The Jana" In-depth Bowl Cut TutorialDec 24, 2021
Hi my friends Sam over here I'm so excited to share a cool shape with you that we call Jana it's a
bowlshape you're going to find these flashy shapes happening right now what's cool about
bowlboats is you might be thinking in shapes geometric geometric s-- she has a sense of geometry respects craft elevation/direction finger angle precision cut but compressing two triangles in the top area now look what happens guys when you do this look how versatile the shape we pass in will be the top and we're working with invisiblend it's really cool and easy to work with now if you're sitting there thinking sam i can't bowl them because they are so precise working and going all the way around we are going to show you step by step how to break it starting with four quadrants and you will see that it is really simple to make once again a form that you will love and we want you to learn to execute it at your way after we share with you another way to do it now let's start with the components that make up the haircut the first component is what you are going to work with when you are cutting we recommend that you go take the unbreakable shine diamond oil and you are going to mix with water now we all know that water and oil don't mix but still with sand via mr. a bottle of water you're going to get a little bit of oil and water mixed and sprayed on top of the head it's going to make styling a lot easier let's talk about this sexually with the section we've worked on four quadrants so what i've just done is go through the high point of the head we go through and part from the center part of the ear to the ear working up the center of the back for the simple quadrants that you are familiar with now let's start with the hair cutting tools of choice we're going to work with a short little bowl shape that we're referring to is Jana which is really important because it's a short little shape I'm going to recommend you go down in size remember think about size of your scissors in terms of what you're working with so I'm going to reach out and start with a five point seven five excuse me a 5.50 twist and you'll see why I'm working with a twist it will really allow me to ac Close up and work hard with our dry wo section cutting clips Working with a dark color we are going to work with a white taper so we can see the extension of the line as we work well so let's start on the strong side which it turns out to be my left side.
I will recommend that you start on your strong side. if you are right handed you decide which side is your strong side most people would suggest you start on your weak side we suggest you start on your strong side and build your confidence so we go to the left side and we are going to working with a diagonal back section and with a diagonal back section we are going to work following the shape of the head so we are going to cut now your cut will depend on the density of the hair so we are going to take between a quarter and about a quarter inch and working diagonally back now determine where you want the length to sit relative to your bowl in this particular case we will sit right with the jaw line almost at the jaw or just above the ear right up we're going to get through we're going to a job with a short cone and coming out good now remember water is your best friend because we're going to work a little more precise it's important to keep it nice and wet now in the past you've seen sam work a lot with compressed cutting it's good because if he has a great understanding of the foundations and he has a great understanding of his craft then he'll be able to really improve the shapes working compressed but all the time he thinks about things in terms of do I need to do it? compress or I'm going to take little sections that I find in the shorter shapes we're taking smaller sections and really working with more precision and really respecting the ship in terms of your lift, your oversteer and your toe angle now even when you compress sections you should Keep in mind you're lifting it to where you're oversteering it and what angle you're cutting, so the craft matters whether it's small sections or if it's compressing.
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modern heritage collection re release the jana in depth bowl cut tutorial...
Today we're going to work with little sections we're going to start on the left side working through my degree of elevation I'm going to raise a finger over it we're going to go over and we're going to go over we're going to point cut so I'm going to point cut this and just scan from side to side so I'm going to go over and point and just scan from side to side as we work ok notice the guide blade is placed on my ring finger and then I just scanned from side to side just opening and closing and moving at a relatively comfortable speed through that section going back and scanning to blink and just scanning this will keep us a bit longer with an edge that has a bit more of a chewy edge if you want a bit more of a sparse edge no it's as much of a cut into the skin what we've found over the years is to go in and cut or scan into these sections as the haircut grows it has a little more flex in the past no They're taught to cut things into the skin and then what happens is it really bunches up for a client it makes it a lot harder to control that edge if you go through and just scan and create a little bit more of a chewed edge or a textured edge then it's going to grow out you can have a little more flex it's going to be easier for a client to work with once again stabilize your blade and now just open close and work from the front watch the angle I'm cutting at your mirrors in this section, so my angle reflects that section.
I'll continue working when you're about an inch over then start working backwards but at this point I'm going to suggest you pause because you've got a nice strong guide let's keep the same mindset jump over to the other side and create a type. I'm going to give you a little tip here in terms of Sam, how do I get the balance on both sides? Let's go to the opposite side and see how we're going to get to the opposite side but before we do that, what I'm going to recommend is to get your slice, go back, take your measurement, then go back and cut the area on the front right side for us to go through, take our first section diagonally back once we get that section remember you want to keep things nice and wet while you work so i'll go back to work with our lord and then go back to the opposite side and lose now let's go back to the first side we just did cut off. let's go back now here's a great way to go in and set a guide for both sides so what I want you to do is just raise this straight from the head and I realize that's not the position where you cut but it's going to give you a big measurement so you're going to go high out slide the comb under between your ring finger and middle finger slide it out then slide out slide your thumb in to that now that's my length estimated flash for the opposite side don't lose your thumb you can still see how I'm going to go through and comb for balance on both sides now I realize this wasn't the degree of elevation but remember we're just setting a guide there's my guide.
I'm going to go through and just start my scan now. I'm going to go back and drop my elevation back to where it was and take the shortest point and use it as my god once again the angle of the finger is the same angle as Mirror that section and scan to the front working front to back now once you have that do one more section just like I did on the opposite side so I'll take two sections and then what I'm going to suggest. what you do is rely on your measurement many times what happens is that when this hair is wet we begin to measure things on one side the opposite side remember that the water will play a trick on your eyes what we suggest you do is that you go in and measure this when the haircut is dry that's when you want to t or go in and take his measurement so i'll get a picture now just to check before i go ahead and then i'll come back when it's dry and get an actual measurement ok , again just check that angle and make sure a finger going through the angle i felt like i had a little corner on that front there and just touch that corner now once you have that now come to the front and what's really important is that sometimes we need to step back and look at the big picture of our works so instead of looking at one side on one side once you just step back and look at your length on the opposite side instead of the opposite side so p With this in the blow dry position, Sam, what do you mean blow? dry position what I want you to do is I don't want you to play the fluff game and do this the fluff game doesn't tell us anything but what I want you to do is put this in the blow dry position put it in the blow dry position once you have that in the dry position now you'll get a better visual measurement item on both sides from one side to the opposite side i feel very comfortable with that so i'm going to keep working back to the side i started on the one my was my left side now here's a key thing to remember when you're cutting a bowl and you're working front to back we'll recommend when you get to an inch above the ear now start working back and you'll see why are we going one more section in the front left area so we're going to go one more section keeping your cuts consistent and parallel to the previous ones notice the elevation stays the same what we're doing in this particular case we're creating the perimeter border first now look at the kneecap sometimes you might say sam this is awkward some of you turn your hand and cut like this turn your hand and use the kneecap and have the kneecap so you can go in and cut like this or you can go in and cut like this way so it's very comfortable to work with a pivot in terms of your hand and in terms of your wrist, once again I'm working with the fine teeth of the comb so I'm having a little bit more tension.
I know I'm going to go through and grade this or layer it now if I was working with this and keeping it one length then I would probably be working with the white teeth of the comb for consistency in terms of tension where an inch above the time to move to the back area so when we get to the back area of the head what we want to do is go in and we want to create more of a guideline in the back that follows what we created in that front area so let's go to that back area to see what we mean we're going to go over and we're going to take just above the line that goes down the center of the back ok it goes diagonally down the center of the back now what I want to do is take a slice and then i'm going to match this cut to that guy i ignored the nape area a lot of times what we've been taught is to cut at the back of the nape so what happens is you're trying to round out is to the top in bowl cuts what we're going to recommend is to keep the line of sight up at the top you can go back and call the nape office you'll see how we'll do it, let's isolate this section and move it out of the way, ok remember to stay consistent till the end success is about consistency no matter what you do stay consistent so now let's work on our left rear area. so we're going to get to that back left area and we're going to keep that guide following right through so I want to go through and I'm going to take a portion of that section, take a portion of the mayor's mirrors up to this session so he can see how that reflective cut that continues from behind the top of your ear to the center of your back ignore this area so if you feel like you don't want to pick that up then i recommend grab one of our dry cut clips place it underneath and because of t the elastic and the cleat and because the water you think might slide down but with the elastic that clip will stay there and i love using that clip there so it allows me a little more control now let's talk about this head is not a box so the heads is not that I had it round so what we want to do is make sure that we put our finger on the round of the head so when you do this think of a box if I put the comb and n that Ridge stack the back of my hand on that occipital there is a corner here that corner represents a change of direction so I'm going to keep my hand flat on that flat area when I pass that center point I'm going to readjust my finger position on that position, so look at the comb, look at how it's flat there, now look at where I put the comb, notice that it rotated, so your hand needs to rotate, what we don't want to do is cut a straight line that does this.
I'm going to end up with a point weight in the center now I'm going to be spending It's time to back up and remove the corner. Sometimes you know what happens if we can take too much corner off. Remember that the corner is the definition of your shape. That is what gives it definition. Sometimes you probably sat behind someone in a movie theater and said wowI really like that haircut but one of the reasons you like that haircut is because you know the changes in direction the definition it has is fine so once again go in and just point the cut and works directly and just scan through that now. this is where my change of direction happens Sam, I'm not quite sure what you mean by that clock when Sam does her hair in slow motion.
I put the comb. Look at the comb coming out of the head. Look or get out. I'll cut to that point, maybe an inch and a half. At most, I'll put my comb in and now you can see in my hand that my finger position changes with that. I'm still cutting diagonally, but we're talking about the position of your fingers, that's critical my friends, here we go to the next section here. comb under now comb on top drops my lift down okay to see the guide stay with that guide go over and scan that and once again notice how we're going to turn look at the comb how we're going to turn and then it's really important to keep your flatter section not so much in a V when it tends to go into a V what happens is you'll see that visually and your hand will be positioned so that our chicken naturally wants to reflect the sections that we're working with and then I want you to work from a front to back section front to back front to back just to keep your consistency when you do it so now as we go along we're going to start working on that marginal area a little bit and you'll notice how that's going to be tight so let's take a section and when you flip it you'll see how that starts to set and the bangs start to come into play and once again the consistency is fine so now let's go to the back or d Excuse me for the front end and then I'll give you a little bit more of a three-quarter view of that and then I want you to look look at the head look at the head there look at how it's going to start turning so you'll find that you're probably going to take a little bit off the corner at the corner of the eye you will start to round it out now I want it to be quite long because I am cutting it wet I can always go back and take that bangs shorter area so let's go back to that front one more time working with a fine C of the comb notice the elevation n stays at the same degree keeping it on a passing finger keeping that nice little edge to edge right now look how the comb looks look at the comb staying there now watch as I move to the front as I move to the front I go you need to start adjusting that angle slightly so use your comb and then place your hand get an idea of where you need to be here really takes the guessing game out of it we've figured out as long as we can eliminate that guessing game it will only make his job so much easier for you ok now i'm going to work backwards so remember front to back forward to back your side jump over to your opposite side and continue the same lift over direction which is the natural drop position and the angle of your finger continues the same section so let's jump over to the opposite side you have your guide on this side now remember you've been sitting this side has been there for a while there it is my section so let's go back and work with our diamond water ok i recommend white. teeth first fall naturally return fine teeth to add that tension now look at the corner as you go higher you're going to start turning more so right the comb here i need to take down that particular corner right there and you'll see that akka member well you start off narrow in front of the ear with a little section as you go up it starts to get wider and as the head goes up the head starts to get wider so your sections start to get tighter remember we're going to go an inch okay so come on to go an inch above that I'm going to go one more section just to get really comfortable in terms of a guide sometimes if you don't go high enough and go to your first section go back to the bowl you're going to have the bowl too much short under it will be too short under in the back area that's why we recommend you go at least an inch over and then continue to the back area but it's the best way what you won't My suggestion is to cut the front Not completely, so try to marry that with the back, it makes it much more difficult.
You're releasing down here that you don't really want to
releasecloser to the occiput so you'll see as we work back, once again notice how the guide blade meets my ring finger and I just open and close and just move down on that section and once again you can turn this way if you want that's your call that's what's great about a turn in terms of how you can adjust a turn now I'm about an inch over maybe a little bit more that's good, let's go to the back and then take your section and now i'm going to marry this section to what i have on that hairline so let's take a look and see if i'm too high ok let's take a look let's see here there's that section right now see if I look at how thick that section is so what I have to do is cut it down so it was probably okay where it was at but I want you to recognize where you're cutting that in one go and one go is just too hair at a time, so let's part it down the middle again, keep an inch above.
I'm still following this guy's length not the bottom it's the guide length you're following so we're going to take that right with that hairline
releasethat down take a clip place your clip so it doesn't cut that now taking that guide see that guide by taking the length of that guide right into that so if you want to go back to that so they can wed that line through all right so now you can see the consistent line and remember that as I work on the back of the head i'm going to rotate my finger position because you're not lifting the bottom come with a comb under place your hand under find the teeth on top first wide then adjust the comb accordingly and now go back and now work on that center point and match up the guide from the opposite side so let's go through now let's match up to this side s or let's make sure we're clear now see how this will go right in be on it and now you can see a short dot here a short dot there join those two dots you you that's time to create a gradation we're going to create the grading below and then we're going to create detachment on top we're going under first let's move on now we're going to work with diagonal back sections and we're going to work towards the middle of the back but what's really interesting is that we're going to cross our sections our diagonal sections when we get to the center you'll see how they'll start to cross each other naturally as you cross your sections allowing you to do it allows you to take that corner in the center so let's go diagonal back we're going to work diagonal back diagonal back diagonal back now that I get to the center look how it looks they will cross the diagonals that will eliminate eliminate that weight that is in the center instead of working towards the center for t the center to the center to the center when you do this you're going to get too much of a stitch and you're going to have too much weight they're going to spend time taking that off so we're going to start from the right behind the ear working diagonally back I'm going to my strong side first which will be my right back, now we're going to split to center, although we're going to cross the center split to center rear, so you know where that is. it's going to cut the legs up the clip legs go up to capture the hair if your clip legs down the hair escapes so legs up ok now we're going to go diagonally back so we're going diagonally back now you're going to find that your guide is going to be the top of the bowl that section in the bowl that's where you're going to see your guide where our finger angle is going to go diagonal so we're going to go diagonal our finger position is going to be Mary over the previous section so it's diagonal over the previous section so I'm going to take sect the number one ion where it lives the angles of my fingers are going to go diagonal the guide is coming from the top which is going diagonal and don't worry about the perimeter edge but work on the inside once we're there the next section will be diagonally back targeting number one number three overshooting number two so it's oversteering the previous section ior look how it's going to work get our section first take that off take this off and isolate so i killed that look on legs legs up captured now come on go to this back alright now you don't necessarily have to kneel .
I'm going to get down on my knees so you can see here's my god you might start watching that guy use your white comb so you can see the angle they're going to be cutting off such nice little tips instead of playing a guessing game and visualizing the angle that you might be moving at so set your comb so you can see the angle that you're going to be cutting so that I'm going diagonally where the length is at the top and the edge of the perimeter is shorter, okay so here we go we're going to have someone do some of this hair here so you can actually see this we're going good so now we're going to this area here so I want to go all the way on that and just continue behind the ear so I have a nice strong guide coming through there's that guide and the diagonal ok now I'll continue to cut this keeping it nice and smooth ok adjust looking at the adjustment aspect on the angle look at the head, let the comb tells you where to go, pass and adjust.
I don't worry about the length of the perimeter, but that's okay, next session I'm going to go diagonally and drop my section on the opposite side. side because when I get to the center look how it's going to cross so now my next section I go there is a center. I'm almost across the center, but not quite right. working with good now look at the head shape d the hip shape so i'm going to follow that so we're here now look humming a comb comb comes under that lifts that hair ok my lift is more horizontal , so i have to increase my lift so come on lift it up so i see the hair lifted out ok once i'm there now i comb it under i put my lift comb on top my last few angles that come on top that overdrives that section to the previous section, it goes through and in once I don't need to clean set my elevation at the top to overdrive a previous section continue working diagonal sections now notice how those sections cross over to the opposite side once i've crossed between half an inch and an inch i'm going to go back to the opposite side start working diagonally backwards in the opposite direction what's great is it gives you a guide and n a start point and an end point it's just a matter of connecting the dots sometimes we too tend to make things so hard still sambia it's all about t simplicity simplicity simplicity so let's go one more time I don't expect you to kneel but I'm going to kneel down so you can see it's okay to raise raising my lift going through the pinky stabilizes the guide blade and your thumb is its action blade just let it scan okay now we're going to move to the opposite side and notice that I'm not worried about my length but if we do this right look at how that icy line looks maybe you could want that line to be a little bit more chewy or a little bit more ash ok now the opposite side it's ok so let's go back to consistency one more time with moisture or diamond water coming back and now working diagonally right behind the ear diagonally back so I'm not in center yet but it's not this look or interesting, there is a guide, so this guide came from that diagonal.
I am crossing the center. That's the nice thing about this little technique that we worked with in terms of crossing these diagonals in the back. Most people who see t These bowl cuts try to work in the back, work through a perimeter line all the way around. Look what we did. We work the interior, then we work. We work a perimeter to the inside of the back and then we go into the back. Just a matter of being a little more consistent clean up this section so we can see where we are in terms of that guide legs up now let's continue so now we have our guide here's that guide behind the ear i got your guide here now connect the dots continue horizontal elevation pass ok now i'm working from the bottom up now i have a turn on the go i have a turn look at finger position finger position finger position position, the angle i'm cutting is still diagonal, but where do I place my hand?
Again, it's not a box, so you have to understand the shape of the head. from that little center corner and then i remember i even cut t length of the hat but ok now let's go through the diagonal sections of the back work with your section the littleclip we gave in the comb out section legs up love the dry cut clip on damp hair not necessarily just dry hair because it's stretchy it will hold as much mass of hair as you want to work with ok comb from below now i'm going to overdrive call me an angle at the top there's that guide follow the guide going back under gets the elevation over Direction combing the angle at the top that little corner frees up so you want that little corner to work so you have to rely on head position to allow you to set up the last section then we'll go inside and have a little fun inside okay now I'm not I'm going to look for my length until I have dried it.
You might like the way it looks but stay out of this and start poking around in things once again stay systematic stick to the fundamentals trade then go back and texture where you need to texture here we come here in the top scene If there is something I need to take. a little corner we'll drop that little corner now you can check this by just going back horizontally so if you want to go back to the center and check and see if there's anything you might have missed go back and check that horizontally but don't get aggressive with your cross check until Now let's move on to the top area.
I've sectioned the typographic top area into two triangles. The high point of the head is its eye reference point corner, so we're going from the high point to the corner of the eyes. eyes that sets your parting in the front area to the parting in the back area once again we're working from the double crochet so we work the double crochet one more time to the right corner backs ok let's give you a back view of that, so you're working from the highest point to the corner posts the curved horizontal line you see is about halfway down the occiput now between row and cut, here's what we're going to do, give it a profile In view of that, what we're going to do is rise diagonally above a horizontal line, so the elevation will be here, the angles we're going to cut , we're going to take the fringe as our guide and we're going to create length towards the highest point we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side so we're going to create this angle so now what I want you to notice is where I have length but if you notice what Andrew and I've been talking about this season we're talking about training our undercuts and our underlayers inside out so I'm going to come back with an invisible undercut and make the crown stick out a bit more to fit that story of what's happening for the season, so now how do you start this?
What we want? what you need to do is create a guideline in the center so we're going to create a guideline in the center and we'll create one in the back let's go to the front first ok I'm going to work with a seven inch can you watch? that if you sat in sam's chair it's not me using my favorite scissors for each haircut there must be an average of maybe three scissors in each haircut so it's almost like it has visual value to a client what sees you pick up this year to do that this year to do that this year to do that has visual value they are so used to seeing a hairdresser maybe use a particular scissor for the whole cut so things are changing times are changing so why am I going to use a longer strip?
I'm going to go in the longer year because I'm going to go a little deeper with my spiky cut. I want the shear length to give me that, so we're going to start at that center, so we take a vertical center section. to the path your eye we're going to elevate above a horizontal line so look at the degree of elevation it gives you a profile view of that and you'll see that the elevation is above a horizontal line ok now here it is my degree of elevation, so if you look at this, you'll see that it's diagonal up Now, if you decide, Sam, how do I know what my toe angle is?
All I want you to do is imagine a little circle right here. Imagine that circle inside that line. Put a horizontal line inside that microcircle which is a horizontal line inside this circle then put a vertical line inside that now put a diagonal line you can see my finger angle is diagonal this is how you can determine the degree of the angle of your finger now that guide will be that fringe that goes to be my guide i want it to let go of some of that bangs so i leave some of that bangs to keep some weight on that bangs so i don't want to soften it too much so watch me keep readjusting my position until I get enough weight out so there's going to be my point of my god now I'm going to pass and I'm just going to put that over my hand pass and I'm just going to aim to cut that notch in that ok now i'm going to take and compress everything else into it so you can see the ship respect know when to compress and know when to go back to basics i.e section by section precision like we did below so even though i'm c ompressing I know where I am I am oversteering this hair - even though I am compressing I am aware of my degree of lift even though we are compressing we are aware of what the angle of our finger is now look sometimes you can't see the guide bend the hair your finger will see the guide skip once you see the guide skip now enter and just don't tap and close on exit so if you tap and close on exit it won't cut your finger don't close along the way you'll cut your finger now notice we have a guide , so we're going to get to the opposite side of and I repeat the same procedure so I lift and compress aware of the greens and what do you mean green look at the grain how consistent is that grain so it doesn't go in here once and then here to cut and then here to cut the grain is consistent on both sides this is what we mean about understanding the craft and having solid fundamentals going back and pointing to that okay now what I've What we've done is we've kept the weight of our fringe but what we've done is we've removed some of that length component in the haircut to give it some degree of movement so that's the idea in terms of what we're talking about turning things upside down even though you're cutting these geometric shapes something is going on inside the top and crown areas let's go to the back now i'm going to give you a profile view again with that back side we're going to put you back first now look again i need to take my cue what's the angle here? that's test it first with your cones so go first and understand the elevation will once again be diagonal over the horizontal line ok once you're there I'm going to go long to short so I have a guide here and i have a guideline below let's just delete what's in the middle let's take a look ok we start first with a nice vertical cut in the center of the triangle mmm that we're going through we're looking for that guideline at the top we just to create so I'm going to pick up some of that there it is there's my short piece I might start to see the short pieces get a little bit more here there we go there it's there now once I have that we're going to review and take take a look and see what our degree of shortening is, you'll see there's going to be a corner here and I'm going to drop that corner, let's grab a little bit more of that front triangle coming up. now you're really going to see it, so now look at how short I have here and look at how short I have on my back raise both horizontal lines diagonally there's my corner loose your corner ok come in lift your right side working with the fine teeth of the comb looking at the green so if i was in the salon you are the mirror so i look in the mirror and look at my elevation to see what it is consistently consistently don't try and look this way you won't see the big picture In general, use your mirror, you reflect your best friend, he will never lie to you, he will always tell you the truth, and where you are, go over and stop that now you have the guide, now go over, take the rest of your triangle until that's ok and look at the grain again and drop that corner alright now we've separated two triangles off the bottom what's going on in the center that still has a length this is what's going to float on top of that but so we have a little more of a co visual combination I want you to come across raise this section up and you're going to see a corner in that Center all I want you to do is just raise it and then you'll see the corner in the center come through and remove it so that you still have your separate area in those two triangles but what we want you to do is understand that you want to have a little bit more of a visual blend even though we're separating the haircuts they have visual blends but if you pull this up you'll see that it has a shedding now look at when we tickle that top can you see how that top separates those two triangles that are working for you so we're going to go through the opposite side we're going to go through look why the teeth of the comb I'm standing on the opposite side raises the two triangles you'll see that two points the triangles just soften the corner don't get aggressive and go so deep you're living the whole thing you're going to be alternating the shape you don't want to alter the shape so you have to be careful with that sorry i was scaring you.
I'll see what I'm doing okay yeah we're ready for our drying okay so now let's just take a look at the shape and this shape is becoming very popular good young generation but what I love about this shape is you'll see the versatility in his form how he'll have some swing and how he'll be able to move lean back away from the face and move forward but this will be a really cool form What will happen this season? We wanted to share with you a really simple way to cut this out. Now it's time to go through our dryer. get up the dryer we are going to work with our pillar booth pry that is not an option it is a very important necessity for us to shake it you are going to mix those two ingredients that are essential and speed up the process of bloodlines so go ahead and apply primer first and then we go.
To move on to the next component that we're going to work with, we're going to layer our satin products and diamond oils, so first work with our pillow-proof Prime once we have that we're going to achieve our satin. 0-2 we're going to mix the product we want the most dominant into our hand first the least dominant product in this particular case is going to be our diamond oil shatterproof shine so we're going to open that up now look what I'm going to do , I'm just going to take maybe a drop or two with my satin clothes once we get that now we're going to go through and we're going to mix and I want it to emulsify almost like a hand lotion okay now let's work our product now you can see where worked it between my fingers now i'm working that product from scalp to ends gained the longer the hair is now look i'll take my hand and bring it back over that hand and bring it back over that hand so why I'm doing?
Remember I have all the product. ahem my hand so rework it rework it's almost like you're giving the client a scalp massage while you're doing this work now what are our next components are our tools our tools of choice, we we are going to work with two choice tools in this particular case we are going to work with our paddle brush and we are going to work with the nine row finishing brush this is going to give us a polish we are going to ride with this first to get the direction in the one that we want to work from the main base to the middle number of the shaft to come back with our polish and our bevel working with an actual finish of nine so we go with the paddle brush first working with the nozzle of our blow dryer it's not a choice and a necessity so now look what sam gonna do i'm gonna tilt this head away from me so it leans away from me now watch what's gonna happen this is the truck this is the trailer if you notice a truck and a trailer as they travel down the highway always travel the same distance down the road I want you to think about as you draw this let's give you another analogy what we don't want you to do is be in a c ita where this is the girlfriend and this is the boyfriend and the boyfriend loses respect for the girl and he just starts jumping on her like this which is not what we want keep your distance and be respectable with your number one tool and you will get a nice cleaner finish while working on the next thing we'll recommend is slow down to speed up slowing down slowing down to speed up you'll get more heat and more airflow as you go now see how they turn it on now look at the nozzle look at the head where i'm working well that nozzle right now is straight up and down the head is round there are diagonal lines around it look how i move it look how that nozzle follows the roundness of the head if i have it vertical andi'm going through now i have to turn the direction of my wrist and the handle to follow the shape of the head the diagonal lines are round that's a start now watch as i go watch how my hand barely moves as i start and work towards a diversion the trailer it's still the same truck in the trailer it's still the same they work with you once you're done drying the rap you want to work now with your finishing brush 9ro so let's talk about how important this brush is it's a great polish it's the factor of rubber that's inside that really gives you that shine when driving with E so we want to walk in with a mouthpiece and I'm going to go in with my handle like this but I'm still holding the handle one more time tightly and then taking a slice and i want to buff the bottom so i'm going to go walk around with it and then look at our work now look for the dryers you see I'll rotate that 9th rotate that 9th just to get a nice bevel ok once again grab a slice coming up walk your 9th and keep going to the right complete this give you the polish you're going to need so far while i do this this is what i'm checking my balance let me see if i'm shorter here longer here i'm not gonna stand in front of you and pretend to be perfect it's a mistake if i don't learn from them yeah i learn from it it's not a mistake anymore it's just a mistake what it means take it again do it again that's all it's the opposite side switch hands switch boom Rush comes earlier in terms of how you develop one hand instead of the opposite hand now let's go to a little trick a little tip and friends put the dryer down ok ok go through them to give you a profile view of this little trick now i love to do this when i have these little Frenchies full ok ?
You're going to be working with your nine-roll finishing brush, so we're going to give you a profile view and then once you have that, what are you going to do, put down the dryer, pick up the brush, okay, take the marginal area in the one you put the brush in take your thumb and put your thumb and forefinger here so I'm going to take my hand pocket and put it here okay once it's there I'm going to pull out now I'm going to reach for the dryer of hair ok adjust my nozzle ok and now I'm going to go through and place the blow dryer right where I want it to be ok so now look again once you're here the important thing is I'm getting there. put that down I just want to reset come on put the hair on the brush so I put it on the brush once it's here make sure everything is on that brush index finger rest it nice and then I'll get that bevel that I now want to go through the dryer set the dryer on slow and turn it slowly now cool and release so the dryer is off c come back through and now release and when you release I want you to realize how much of a strong bevel you've been able to create there in terms of that by working with their 9ro finishing brush so instead of working with a flat iron sometimes what happens when they have fringe as full as this and they are so short you work with a flat iron and you run into a crease this brush will give you will save, that's a little advice, now let's finish, I'm going to refine the shape once you remember, you can see the details about looking at the details now, when you're up close, you don't see the big picture, it's more microscopic, so i want you to see i take a step back and look at the big picture first of all let's go to the back and see what we want to refine in the back area.
I can see my angle starting to get slightly slow just slightly skewed down so I'll go back through that and adjust that angle working with the 5.5 pivot go hey I can see where I need to go going through that t and look at me use the back of the comb to push that up now my hand goes under and this will let you really see how much of the line you need to adjust so I'm going to go through just adjusting that squaring that up a little bit more and see how I go going in i level but i step back and look at the big picture again ok now i need to take down just a little corner there you can start to see i did it and i just leveled that now coming to that little corner here's a little corner i can see right there it's just about re-educating your eyes developing your eyes to see things you know my eyes over 37 years in the industry has really changed in terms of the way i see things my eyes have changed Changed, in other words, maybe 30 years ago frizz was something I didn't respect or like, now I love the phrase, that's what I'm talking about, your taste is a journey in this industry, so your taste. the buds will change as you go now let's move to the front start looking at this is more exposed here tells me two things it could be on my finish or it could be on the cut so you really have to examine what I think is more in the cut so as I was drawing it I could see it let's take Look at it look at the comb that's coming under and now just examine your line and you'll see right away the line starts to drop there's a corner right there over his eye let's go through and understand why which the teeth of the comb have less tension in this case, the reason why the hair is dry once again, a finger goes through, notice that the ring finger stabilizes the guide blade and the thumb is its action blade. more and then one more time is what we were talking about earlier use your mirror as a tool so you can see the things you need to adjust there we go I need to remove this corner and I'm going to work on that and refine the area underneath like this I'm going to work with that nan grass I'm going to work with the wide teeth of the comb close your eyes for me close your eyes and now just go in and remove what you don't want notice the scissors at an angle so I keep that at an angle so I can go in and keep the edge nice and smooth the flatter the angle this year then it will start to snap now notice how i am working with a swivel did you see how i swelled up? look at the angle this year and now start refining that edge where it meets at the front of the ear it's going to have a little bit of a point or a depression coming out we're just going to cut that out ok the little edge i see that comes don't get aggressive so start to narrow that perimeter in terms of how you see it okay now jump to the other side I'll free up that point there so let's jump to the opposite side.
I want to enter here. I'm going to use the ear as an area to see if I'm shorter here, which it thinks I am and I'll go back to the opposite side and take that length up and you'll see I'm just aiming straight for that edge and now if you look at this, you're thinking you might be thinking it was a very blunt cut with a straight line remember we annexed that edge all the way ok let's expound a little bit more here on that here when you're refining hold your head in position upright holding it in the upright position you're going to be able to see the balance of your haircut take a step back look at your big picture ok and look at how i'm using my hand so i can see where i need to go so I'm going to give this a little bit more elevation grade, so I'm going to go with two fingers and go through.
There's the ring finger to guide. I think balance is probably one of the most difficult things as a hairstylist. Balancing one side with the opposite side is critical. how that degree of lift balances that out now we're going with an invisiblend we're going with our first seven inch and let's take care of that back area at the nape of the neck right now this is where i can come in and really start to come after this perimeter edge so let's use the white teeth of the comb to stabilize that goes in with a longer shear so I'm going to go in with a longer shear okay and I'm going to come in one more time I'm going to go diagonally with the shear and I just want to increase that length just a bit ok watch how i'm going to turn watch my hand turn working from the outside in just for a matter of being a little more comfortable ok now let's go through and take the invisiblend and work the invisiblend 23 tooth a blade blunt you will not cut yourself this is the sharpest point of the blade is the teeth because it is blunt when you close it push the hair while pushing the hair and close each tooth you will get a scallop scallop Scalla as í that gives you a softer edge that you can pull as you cut without drag no grip no s nagging ok it really is meant to give you a very soft edge so look at my weight so let's just smooth the edge so I'm going to pass and I like to vent and just close and go, you can come in if you want to serve, just hold on, I'm going to go in, I'll be aggressive and just soften the edge, but I don't want a smooth waiting line. i want a bit of that character one more time working with your invisible clothing and sliding it in look at that no drag and just gives you a really beautiful soft edge ok ok here it tends to be a little heavy where you see the weight goes after the weight ok so maybe it's just that top corner we need to soften up don't be aggressive cut a little bit then go back and look at that a little bit more in this area and then look at all the pop out of that crown a little more with the invisible and it's alright great and let's go ahead and soften the top now and soften the bangs area and we're good to go alright so come through that top now remember I'm going to work on that part top those two triangles so look at how close I'm going to go to the scalp so I'm going close to the scalp on this comb and you're not going to get any pull or drag and I want you to just remember the season and what Andrew and I are talking about in terms of that so maybe a bowl and have a sense of geometry but what's cool about this is the fact that there's something going on up here that saw once again the triangle working on that triangle now you can see if you don't comb who you're obviously going to hook up okay so come on in just watch how easy it slides out so when she touches she just wanted to have some okay and then we're going so let's recap our haircut hair, is Masters working with four quadrants, work on your strong side, create the first back diagonal sections. your desired guideline the length you want to work on the opposite side create follow the guideline there you will work at least an inch to an inch and a half up as soon as you are this high you will continue back remember release the nape area don't you are attacking that nape area first as we may have been taught once you have done it all the time remember what is most important work with the round part of the head the position of your finger will change according to the shape of the head is not working in a box so remember that so you don't get these corners once you've done all the way around then you're going to go diagonally back and you're going to work diagonally back from the top of the ear working back what you're going to find is you're going to find your guide is going to be here our elevation was horizontal our toe angle was diagonal your still point cutting that keeping that smooth edge really e nice once you have completed the nape area you go to the top you are going to take two triangle sections that you are going to work the section of a triangle from the high point to the corner of the eyes another section of triangle working towards right corner back left corner back and then a horizontal line triangle triangle create a guide line in the center our lift was diagonal on a horizontal line so we just went over and lifted diagonally the angle of our finger was short from the fringe and it led to the length at the highest point so we cut this angle into both triangles once you got that you've actually been touched apart that top area from what you created inside your bowl shape so you'll have this area here that you want to raise horizontally standing on the opposite side staying on the opposite side you'll see a corner here just gently cut that corner q You're going to continue with the products of your choice Pouf Pillow Prime Satin and Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine are going to blend those two parts together our go-to component in terms of tools is our flat brush our nine row finishing brush shorter hair work with a styling brush once again i want to thank you so much for joining us we want to light a fire inside you take these shapes make them your own or just the messenger once again thank you for joining us thats it
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