Making The Coolest Toolbox Ever - WoodworkingJun 11, 2021
The first phase of this project will be to build the cabinet itself and I'm using good quality three-quarter inch plywood for that, although you can definitely do this using a cheaper quality. I rely on the plans I made for all of the pieces to start with, and then I can take the smaller pieces to the table saw and make more precise cuts, so that the three pieces I just made cutting is the two sides plus the center divider and I'm actually using that divider to mark where the rabbets will be on the side panels, this is more accurate than measuring because plywood rarely takes up the full three quarters that I have marked on my plan and there are many ways to cut those rabbets you can use a router or you can set up a stack of dice on your table.
My preference, if I don't have much to do, is to use a single blade and do it in two cuts along with those rabbets, I need to cut some dice. on the side panels on the inside and I'm using a simple guide I quickly put together for my router. I have a three quarter inch bit in the router to route the slot and I made this opening in the fence to be the same size as the base of my router, this slot doesn't go all the way, it stops at about six inches and half and because it's on the inside it doesn't have to be perfect, it's for a stretcher that goes from the divider to one side on both sides to keep the cabinet from coming apart now that I have all three pieces of plywood quarter inch cut out for the cabinet, I need four strips of solid wood and these go in the top corners to hold the top to the sides and also the divider and I am cutting them from a piece of 2 by 12. almost any solid wood will do suitable for this, these add a lot of strength to the cabinet and make it easier to assemble, and I'm attaching them to the side panels with glue and then putting in a couple of nails to hold them until I can drill pilot holes and drive in one inch screws and media and like I said, these also attach to the divider panel at the top. on both sides I probably should have done this part before attaching the slats and that is marking the location of the guides for the drawer slides I'm using.
You can use a tape measure to do this, but what I find most accurate is to make what's known as a story stick and that's where you mark the dimensions directly on the stick and use them to mark on the panels and that way you end up with each one exactly the same. Then I can get the guides for the drawer slides. installed, that's the beauty of working from a plan, you know exactly where those runners go and you can place them before assembling the cabinet, which can save you a lot of hassle. The lines I marked represent the top of the bottom runner and me.
I'll install them first, then use my spacer rod I made to install the top ones at the correct distance and then to drill the hole for the number 10 screw. I made this simple drilling guide to work out the correct size. bit and drill to the correct depth and also keep it at 90 degrees to the panel now that I have the runners installed. I can apply a couple of coats of water based polyurethane. Put the first one. Let dry. Sand lightly and install. another and this really makes the slide run better, much smoother, much more slippery. Think of it as wax-free while I wait for the first coat to dry, I can put some trim on top and let the urethane dry. about two hours and now I'm putting in slides and to do that for the outside panels I'm just putting in number 10 screws that are three quarters of an inch long, how
everfor the center panel that hole goes all the way through so I'm going to use a longer bolt, this one is actually an inch and a half and I'm going to put a nut on the other side and then secure it in place with some super glue now that I'm done with the drawer slides.
Start assembling the cabinet. I'm going to place the workbench top face down and then I can install the panels using the slats I installed earlier, except this time I won't use glue, I'll just use screws. three on each slat, I have to spend a little time
makingsure I place the center panel exactly centered between the two outer panels and that's just a matter of taking measurements, pushing it in a small amount and then when I finally get it there, do marks showing exactly where it should be. It's also important to note that it lines up in the front and is actually pushed back to make room for the back panel.
Next, I'm going to attach the bottom panel, but First, I really need to make sure it's the right length. I cut it to the right length and was very careful with how deep I made my rabbets, but it doesn't take much to throw them away, so it's best to check. I'm going to hold it in place, measure the top and compare it to the bottom and here I can see I'm a little short so I'm just going to put a piece of edge band on one side and check it again and see how it looks that to hold the bottom part.
I'm using two inch screws and placing them at a slight angle to the side from the bottom. You can see that angle here below. I need to cut the racks that go between them. I intentionally left the center panel and outer panels long because again it's best to take a measurement after assembling the cabinets to make sure they fit well with the almost finished cabinet. I can start building the drawers. There are 10 of these. and first I'm cutting the side panels. I want to finish them so I can cut all the rabbets at the same time on the front, back, and bottom of each panel so I know exactly how wide the front is.
The bottom and back panels should be fine. First I'm going to measure it with the side panels in place. I'm going to place a couple of guides to get the right spacing between the sides and then place two side panels and measure. between the recesses now I'm not going to make this super tight. I'm going to subtract about 30 seconds of an inch from this measurement and that will be the width of the front, back, and bottom panel. I was able to cut all those parts the same width. I gave each drawer two coats of water based polyurethane and that's especially true in the slide area and now I can install them on the cabinet and it's very similar to putting the slides on the side panels.
It's just a matter of driving in the #10 screw now that the drawers are installed. I can move on to
makingthe drawer fronts and I'm using half inch maple veneer plywood for this, cutting the piece to 24 inches and then I'm cutting it into two pieces for the two benches and before cutting them into drawer fronts individual, I'm going to edge band both sides on both blanks and that will cover the plywood which looks a lot like the prohibiting edge installation. It's also a good idea to apply a couple of coats of finish here before cutting it into the individual drawer fronts after the handles.
In fact, I'm going to get fancier here and use a piece of cherry to make these handles attach directly. to the top of the plywood drawer front with glue and one and a quarter inch nails to install the drawer fronts. I tipped the cabinet on its back and I'm going to use spacers and hot glue to put them in place and then put the screws in from the back and voila the
toolboxis now finished and ready to load like I said at the beginning of the video , the plans are available for this project and go to my website, there is a link in the description that will take you right there you can purchase the plans and start making your own right away and make a real improvement in your workshop.
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