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M1078 LMTV - Update #6

Jan 25, 2022
ok start next


video here i did quite a few things some of it was a pain in the ass but i am definitely making progress i was supposed to buy new tires to put them on but i bought them and when the guy delivered he lied about the date on the tire so he had to go through a debacle and return it. seems to give me a little more clearance under all my trees. I got four of the dust covers for all the brake chambers in the rear from one of the guys in the Facebook group.
m1078 lmtv   update 6
Thanks. I was having a really hard time finding them. and i got all new gladhand seals for the front and rear and put them on uh we'll move on to the big stuff and uh i'll go over how i upgraded my air dryer this is what i used for the tools little extension for the impact and also for the 17 millimeter 9 16 ratchet this is another 17 mil for the stubby ratchet half inch extension flat head screwdriver a couple different adjustable half inch 9 16 cutters. 15 16 one inch one and a quarter and 17 mils and some thread lock tape you may not need all of this i did a little more stuff like swapping out the bolts instead of reusing the others that's why i got like 9 16 ok 9 16 actually it it uses for one of the airlines but for plugs and stuff it's going to be very useful to have an impact because here's some of the old hardware these are self-locking crimp nuts so they're going to totally fight you You will need two adapters for this to work.
m1078 lmtv   update 6

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m1078 lmtv update 6...

I found out while I was going through and they're going to listen to me say this again and put some notes on the video uh this is a half inch pipe thread npt to a 5 8 flare this is a 45 degree seat you're going to need this because there's an angled one on the old air dryer for one of the little checks you're going to need this is a quarter to 1 8 bushing so here's the air dryer this was perfectly sealed in the box and inside this and all the nsn number 4730-01-524-78902 and the uh haldex part number is n-5000 zero one one dash h but opening this up this appears to be the exact connector that is on the truck so i didn't retrofit and then measured as well the distance between these bolts this adapter plate that is on it and it seems to be an exact match for the


at least mine i dont know i have the


i dont know if the other variants will but its not like the part number of haldex that was shared in the form of soldiers of steel that had to get and then notch it seems to be perfect basically that part number or haldex put together the exact number nsn and sold it so it's like a direct replacement um it's also 28 volt on the heater so I'm going to remove the old one and see if it screws on well. i ended up just folding this to make it easier to get out yeah looks like everything is going to be fine huh the only adapter you're going to need is right here on the control this is a 1 8 fitting that came out of the bottom of the old one which is a quarter inch so I have a quarter 1 8 bushing and that's It's all going to need teflon tape to see that this is the bottom that's where the control is, the output that's where the plastic hose was going to the inlet, which is where the more braided hose is going to go.
m1078 lmtv   update 6
I will have to reuse. these fittings so i'm going to remove them all clean up the thread areas don't put teflon tape on the side where the lines connect just on what you're going to come back here and these are also labeled what you need to go and I'm going to put them in there snug but not too tight because once I screw them in I need to be able to move them around a bit and I'm a little worried that this won't go where it needs to go. on the driveway here but it should be ok i have all the hardware on i'm going to go over confirm the bolt holes line up and screw them in nice both holes line up so i had to stop last night This angled fixture didn't work. one, well I didn't go looking for it, I had this lying around.
m1078 lmtv   update 6
I'll put a size on what exactly adapter is in the description under this section for this repair and I also needed to get more of these 5 8's as compression. accessories because this one was there for so long and it was too tight there was no way it was going to come out. I also got a longer bolt. I use new hardware while looking at it. The top left has a little bracket that also clips behind holding some air lines and these were long enough for all three of us so I needed one a bit more but I'm going to put them all on and we should be able to start the truck and test drive now I also shorted this ok I wired everything up the other thing I have to do is hold the bundle. head adjustment and I only loosened a quarter turn on the fitting that the stainless airline attaches to so that way it wouldn't bend, it was trying to bend at the top.
I'm going to start the truck now, I doubt it. it's cold enough for the heater to kick in but see if she bleeds and I create air and then I'll check for leaks ok that's doing what it's supposed to do the project is complete I'll keep an eye on too much air. it leaks fine so after a couple weeks i ended up needing to rebuild this again uh if you remember from one of my earlier videos the rebuild kit i got off eBay had a bunch of wrong sizes so i ordered the one from the Midwest. military gear to keep handy and this the other day failed again and started spraying everywhere i think what happened was after i took it on a very long ride the heat coming off the engine caused it to warp and i went to get the cab up and i mean it just sprayed all over the place and then after it cooled it was enough to get it up and down so i took it off and did it again and the midwest kit also comes with one for here on this side which is nice huh the hydraulic adjustment huh the rebuild was much smoother everything fit well but it came off is relatively easy compared to the other but the reason i wanted to stick with this is to tell you to just use those port charge o-rings you had pointed out in a pinch to help you out and also because this all sealed the right way the pin wouldn't go in and this is a high point so there is air trapped in there and then on this side for the key Allen 3 16.
This is here for you to loosen up and let the air out and you'll probably have to do this a couple of times so I've already loosened it up to confirm that's what there's an o-ring behind it and a bunch of bubbles and some yucky old hydraulic fluid came out and I'm going to put the cab up and down a few times um and I'll record next time to show the air coming out I tried to open this side too and it did get a few little bubbles but a lot of it came out of here and the reason I didn't have to do that last time was probably because the o-ring didn't fit. tight inside, air just came out, but hydraulic fluid didn't come out right.
I replaced the window handles. This is an inactive part. Here it is right here. 775-5501. what's really different is that it sticks out a little more it's a little wider the thread on the small screw the pan head screw is an m6 thread by 10 uh uh you need one that's three quarters longer this is three quarters of an inch longer i had it lying around in my hardware bin so i'm swapping both out okay if yours ain't broken yet to remove this a little bit of a flat head or something and just pry the knob and it will come off and then this brown piece here it is like put it in place fix it and you have it r flat head screwdriver here off you can leave the little brown spacer there you can see the difference in length it matches the splines tighten it also i replaced the passenger side this is the one i actually bought one of these to make sure would fit because this one was in pretty bad shape if you remember from the previous video.
I used some random hardware to hold the knob and whatnot, but I just bought another one to match this pressure relief valve you've given me. a problem again i tried adjusting it and other stuff a bunch of times basically whats happening is its not opening and staying open so my cad bear jumps my radiator fan doesnt work intermittently and it What I'm going to have to do is go up and just pull this plug all the way out and open it just enough to get air in. I already took it apart and fixed it once it was leaking.
I'm just going to try to replace it. This is not an easy part to obtain. so i have something equivalent to that and i held x part the problem i'm going to have is that it's not a half inch like this i think it's just a quarter inch i don't think it's the end of the world can you reduce the flow slightly this is not a critical part of the system here for something that's going to need so many cfm so I'm not worried about that I'm going to delete this and figure out what I need for the adapters and from there I have a whole bunch of different fittings and nozzles and stuff If not, I'll go to the store.
Here are the tools I'm using for this project. They were smaller sizes and tight to remove all the brass brush to clean the threads and accessory tape. Small screwdriver when I had to take things apart. For the new part, it's a T20 torx driver that holds the channel. Phillips screwdriver to remove the old one. apart so you can twist and take it off. I'm done with the project at this point, but I wanted to show you the part that is supported by x part. There are two numbers here. I bought this on eBay with no box but it is brand new. they said. it's part nine zero five five five four zero zero but there's also that uh one seven six two oh above and uh it has quarter inch fittings and then the half inch fittings are here so depending on how you end up doing it uh you're gonna need go get some adapters or change everything you may need to lengthen these hoses you may not but the reason I'm not going to cover exactly what adapters are needed or because I had a bunch of this stuff lying around. dumpster i had and i just got stuff out of that bin to make it all work for me i broke my bin and this is what i came up with it should give me enough length to meet the air hoses um i'm going to clean everything up using tape i'm going to have to remove this piece from here and wait to put this in and tighten it one at a time all good all installed uh my particular situation i had to pull this to give it a little more slack and i had to route this top airline over the pipe coming from the air filter which I don't have Don't think that's going to be a problem maybe if you end up doing this and you're going to go out and buy the fittings um just maybe get a longer nipple for it to go further back, you don't have to deal with it.
But now I'm just going to start the truck and start it up and see if we get air without touching anything in the airbags and radiator fan ok my air pressure built up and bleed the way I did. I will be able to tell if this is doing what it was supposed to do. You would have the problem that normally when you turn off the power you hear air coming out of the fan. Also, the cabin airbags do not fill. The top airbag springs are full, so let's see, oh yeah, okay. three times in a row it did what it was supposed to do and well that leak is just an inner tube but if i walk in here i don't hear any leak well i take that back there's a bit of air i know my park the brake valve is leaking that's actually the next thing i'll work on but there's nothing obvious here great happy that's something i was concerned about because if the radiator fan doesn't come on and you go full throttle highway speed engine gets hot so great that's another fix you can probably hear that hiss in one of my earlier videos someone pointed out to me what that is there's a vent on top for the parking brake so i brought parking brake trailer brake dash valves and i'm going to replace them here are the new valves i bought them from napa a retained x part number zero two kn20025 look how long it's been on the shelf uff this is the parking brake interesting parking its blue instead of yellow now every truck i have driven is yellow kn two zero zero three five sin ce a little newer 2017 not much extra hose because i have had the little panel open rto where they're mounted before holding not a lot of extra hose so what I'm going to try to do is just loosen it up as far as it will go pull it out and I'm going to mark all the fitting disconnects so I can pull the valves out further and then I'll pull everything out like brass because there are dividers and stuff coming out of these putting everything back together and then putting them on will probably be a pain in the ass but you won't be able to hear me cuss at the truck when i have it in fast forward so try to get them out by tools a screwdriver big phillips some 5 channel locks 8 keys a stubby wrench is definitely going to come in handy on this on adjustable sharpie to mark the air lines and some pipe thread tape ok we messed around trying to removethese knobs and unlike the new one what it has is there are some pins you're supposed to hammer in eh we had no luck trying to get them to move and we went to drill them out and it looks like they are hardened roller pins we ended up just breaking off these plastic bits of that way and then we were able to pass them on i mean i got new ones it doesn't really matter as this involves breaking something i might have bam bam make it scrap scrap bam bam did a good job just broke it needed to be broken so i'll like to tag what each with one of these fittings like a number on the nut to remember which way they all go that way i can undo them take the whole valve out and then clean them put them in the corresponding parts then put them back together as i figured this isn't fun.
Not at all we managed to get the parking brake valve all the way out this is great I don't know what you're talking about and we're working on supplying the trailer even though that one wasn't leaking I don't know. I want to do this again so just replace both ok, quick check and compare parts ok. d the only real difference is that instead of having that pin, it has this little spring-loaded notch that makes a lot of sense. I'm going to start by removing them one by one, swapping them out, and I'm going to use just one thing. of pipe thread tape to seal it off battery died last night but uh we were able to finish this boy it's a real pain in the ass not a lot of room in there uh one thing we did was uh there's like a lots of loops going. from the tractor park to the trailer air supply I pre-wired them and put them there and it finished um didn't solve the problem I thought it would though it fired the truck up took it out for a good ride came back and parked and you could still hear a little bit of air coming out of that vent at least i know they are ok now and it actually solved a little problem i didn't really care about parking the tractor when it was cold or you first starting it it would start to leak a little d and you could play with it or give it a good punch and then it would go away but at least it's not doing it anymore so I'm going to assume my leak is coming from somewhere maybe a valve or something with the brake pedal not fully sealing the check valve maybe I'll have to go find a schematic of the system and trace it back and see if there's anything I can see there as I'm sitting in this area that I didn't notice but with the adjustable wheel is also telescoping you get an inch and a half or so which is great uh when you loosen this up if you lift the wheel it will also pop up and down as if you loosen this it will fall off and you'll see it's great I didn't realize that because I liked having the steering wheel tilted back, but I was always hitting my knees to get in, so now I can lift it up.
Tighten it all the way, it will be much more comfortable, so thanks to those in the Facebook group. that indicated that he did not know

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