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Lycoming IO360 Overhaul"},"lengthSeconds":"2195","ownerProfileUrl":"http://www.youtube.com/channel/U

Jun 01, 2021
You, the airplanes you are seeing, are just one step in man's continuing fascination with flight. We at Sky Were Tech are excited by our good fortune to be part of the wonderful industry that supports the efforts of travelers around the world over the years. Todd Johnson and Phillip Onic have met many of you around the world conducting engine

overhaul

workshops. They have had the opportunity to learn about their interests and concerns. Their enthusiasm led them to create videos outlining

overhaul

procedures for several popular engines. This video continues that dedication to giving you the best information about your engine, both Todd and Phil hope this will translate into a safer feeling as you take off to experience that unique thrill of man breaking free of gravity and moving through the sky as some of you are part of the growth. made up of home enthusiasts who build their own art, others of you will be like many of the people Phil and Todd know around the country, those who want to know when a service is necessary and what it entails, as car owners, some people They take special care of their machines while others wait for a problem with an airplane.
lycoming io360 overhaul lengthseconds 2195 ownerprofileurl http www youtube com channel u
Maintenance means security and peace of mind. A checkup is recommended when you have reached the tbo time between the general recommendation, you have reached the manufacturer's time limit on a general schedule, or an unknown condition exists in a checkup will ensure your comfort and peace of mind, and preventative maintenance should be performed according to the manufacturer's specifications. This tape is about a Lycoming IO 360 motor. You will notice that we continually remind you to consult the manufacturer's manuals for different tolerances, torques, and other specifications. Model Gears Model modifications and design adjustments won't change the basics of the overhaul, but they will require you to maintain diligent attention to detail, so enjoy the tape whether you use it to rebuild an engine or simply to become more familiar with your engine. inner workings is great for honing your skills or just giving you more knowledge 88 our demo begins at Mattituck Aviation the world's largest engine platform located on Long Island Mattituck Aviation very generously allowed us the use of their facility to perform our rebuild while we are getting started With reassembly, you must have completed certain tasks not covered here to get to this point in these facilities, the engines are shipped or actually transported by plane, the engines are removed, disassembled and everything is cleaned with a chemical brush of water or a machine, all tolerances and parts are checked. are the broadest specifications or if that is impossible, the reassembly centers around the crankshaft are discarded and replaced we have mounted vertically on a fixed column a collar on the bottom is a convenience that helps hold parts and tools the advantage of This assembly becomes evident when we need to turn the engine by hand to position the pistons and perform other timing operations.
lycoming io360 overhaul lengthseconds 2195 ownerprofileurl http www youtube com channel u

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lycoming io360 overhaul lengthseconds 2195 ownerprofileurl http www youtube com channel u...

We also mounted the crankshaft vertically so we can visualize the location of the engine parts. We understand that this is where cylinder number one will be. the number two cylinder, etc., this allows us to better visualize the relationship between the parts, such as the sum, the camshaft, etc., although our engine does not have one, some IO 360 use a counterweight system as a vibration damper torsional, the counterweight is held by counterweight pins a counterweight plate holds the pins and is secured by a snap ring the first step is performed as a subassembly the left half of the crankcase is painted with an adhesive the adhesive is used to hold a 100% silk thread that actually works as a gasket, this thread is directed to the inside of the bolt holes so no oil can escape through the bolt holes or parting surfaces.
lycoming io360 overhaul lengthseconds 2195 ownerprofileurl http www youtube com channel u
The silk thread is left long so that it ties together and is a continuation of the nose seal that will be used in the crankshaft opening, then we fit the bearing inserts. There have been updates on a few different styles of this part, so check your parts manual for specific part numbers. Now we put in the tappets that actually give movement to the valve train as with most assembly steps everything is lubricated the camshaft now fits into the crankcase all the rings fit in both depressions so that the crankcase halves seal when they come together The front main bearing may be at rest or at rest if your engine uses a four-piece main bearing.
lycoming io360 overhaul lengthseconds 2195 ownerprofileurl http www youtube com channel u
The one-piece main bearing is fitted in the same manner as the center and rear main bearings. Our engine uses a two-piece front main bearing that is positioned differently. It should be aligned with the crankcase posts. Place it while the box is placed. Open it up and with a pencil mark the points on the bearing where it should meet the pins, this will allow you to fit it more easily later. The crankshaft seal is now placed around the crankshaft and will be covered with adhesive as the crankcase halves approach it. The crankshaft is now positioned on top of the crankshaft, there is an air fitness directive on this part, so this, in addition, the manufacturer's service bulletins must be strictly adhered to.
The process includes tapping down and setting the bolt with a locking tab. It is tightened again, paying special attention to the manufacturer's bulletins. There is an inspection in this area with a feeler gauge. Any part of the gauge sagging at these points would warrant removal and an inspection is underway. The goal here is to downshift. the countersink and square with it if it is not flush and flat, you could have a lot of problems in the future and in the air now we assemble the connecting rods with the correct bearings the size needed for the crankshaft a crankshaft can be ground - the tolerances, instead Before replacing them, they must be adapted by correctly matching the bearings, the connecting rods and the crankcase are numbered and the corresponding numbers are always kept together 1 2 1 2 2 2 etc.
Now we understand why we originally talked about mounting the crankshaft vertically. For purposes of visualizing the final assembly, the vertical assembly and raised numbers are aids in this visualization process. The connecting rods are assembled on the crankshaft with the numbers away from where the camshaft will be and towards the sump side. Now we lubricate the bearing areas. thrust surfaces and threads we now face the crankshaft and orient it so that the bottom or number 1 piston extends to what would be called top dead center or full firing position. Being in this position, the rest of the engine will sequence easily as we go. now assemble with 360 I/O bolts are not tight, they are stretched and tightened until they reach a specific length.
Now we have reached a point where we have two sub-assemblies that we are about to join together after joining them we will not be able to go back and separate our work so we suggest having a knowledgeable friend inspect your work so far or walk away for half an hour or so and come back with a new perspective and review what you've done. technique we will suggest at various points during this rebuild process, now being satisfied that everything is correct, at this point we are ready to join the subassemblies, this means lubricating all bearing points and thrust surfaces, the front main bearing is lubricated and placed.
On the front main crank journal again we can visualize knowing that the crankcase is going to go here, the bearing is going to go here, since this is a two piece front main bearing and so we mark it with a pencil, we can line up the holes of the plugs correctly. place adhesive on this nose seal and on the receiving part of the crankcase this is a contact cement recommended by the manufacturer it will adhere when the halves are joined and since it is a wear part it is lubricated this is done because the crankshaft can grab the sealant rotate it causing damage to the crankcase now we place the half of the crankcase over the extended number two cylinder the bearing is adjusted to fit correctly over the pin marks this means it will sit rotatably and vertically it will take an extra pair of hands to Pry up the crankcase if the pin holes did not line up when tightening the crankcase, the result would be a compressed bearing that would not allow the engine to rotate.
The seal is now raised into position taking into account rotating the split so it does not line up with the crankcase gap. a 10 or 2 o'clock position when viewed from above this way the scene will not be aligned with the adjoining seamless crankcase halves there are less easy paths for a possible oil leak as a rule we will always avoid which allows it seems be aligned, you can see a groove machined into the crankcase into which the seal can be placed. There are several seal styles, if this does not describe yours, consult the manufacturer's manual for installation instructions.
Now you must take a gauge to make. Make sure there is clearance between the crankcase and the part of the crankshaft called the oil baffle. The oil baffle is simply a saucer lip near the other side of the thrust face that, through centrifugal force, induces oil to exit and return to the crankcase. prevents the seal from becoming overgreased and prone to sea pigeon leaks the crankcase is pried to accommodate the manufacturer's recommended clearance for the feeler gauge without this clearance this is another point that would be subject to immediate wear if all steps so far they are correct, you will notice To ensure that there is enough crankcase in play, the left half of the crankcase is now installed.
This also requires a second set of thumbscrews. Bolts are installed from left to right according to the manufacturer's recommendations with a washer on the sides of the nut and bolt head and an internal lock. lock washers that nut in place as you continue around the crankcase your assistant should lightly hold the halves in place the crankcase at this point should look like a machined part with holes and the established tolerances should be scrupulously maintained the bolts are tightened lightly so that the crank case can be aligned by the through bolts. We check that there are no bindings, that the crankcase and clearance still exist and that the camshaft rotates.
Now we can install the engine through bolts. These bolts seal, align and hold the halves together and hold the cylinders. They need to be hammered into position, they are necked down in the middle so that while the ends are sealed the middle can still expand and contract with the heat of the engine and still be a holding force. A threaded cap allows the bolt to be struck with a hammer, but care must still be taken as excessive force can still cause damage to the threads inside the protective cap. There are eight bolt positions. The bottom bolts do not have a cylinder on each side. so a spacer takes up the entire length the top two bolts are actually built with bolts.
On the right half of the crankcase and the left side fits into them, these bolts therefore do not need spaces inside integrated. The four center bolts are hammered. It is described that you can visually measure the correct location and then the nuts on each end can pass the bolt or back to any desired position, the remaining crankcase tip bolts pass through the O-rings we have glued into the gaps provided for them. Use a light grease to carefully screw these bolts through the O-rings. They are good seals, but they are silicone O-rings. rings and they will break into pieces if you try to screw a dry ball through them, light oil prevents this if you see any o-ring material on the outlet end, stop and go back and replace the o-rings, any damaged o-rings are almost guaranteed An oil leak by the way, any disassembly at this point requires replacing any sealing parts, such as the silk thread nut, and tightening the bolts per the manufacturer's recommendation.
Now we will screw and tighten the through bolts according to the specifications in the manufacturer's manual. This uniform crushing in the case seats all the bearings and rounds everything out. We now check the movement making sure there are no bindings as the case is now as tight as possible. Now we can fit the remaining smaller bolts by tightening them three bolts. on some sides and are safety wired, all internal parts have some type of locking device to prevent the vibration conscious front end from settling them and therefore causing invisible internal damage, of course these bolts are tightened to the recommended torque, the 3/8 bolt that holds the crankcase. together at the end of the camshaft gear must be tightened and wired.
Earlier models may have a full through bolt. Now we tackle the gear section. The tension axles of thegear are in place and the locking plates are in place for safety, tightened and then to prevent the bolts from becoming unscrewed. because they are loosening and possibly slipping inside the engine, the ends are bent, the gali plugs are now installed, we now fit the gears, we need to reference cylinder number one, which we want to extend to top dead center, this It's because we want the crankshaft to be synchronized. to the camshaft this allows the valves to function correctly depending on where the piston is in the cylinder we extend the number one cylinder we locate the timing marks on the camshaft those two points there and we locate the timing marks on the crankshaft gear the timing gear drives the camshaft drives the magneto and has an eccentric cam that drives the fuel pump the timing gear has marks that we match to the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft we match everything and the gear The timing shaft falls into place the next gear turns the magneto and while it is similar to the previous timing gear it has timing marks on it, it's not time to do anything else so the marks are unimportant, this is the timing shaft. tachometer transmission, is connected to the camshaft, a wire will be connected from the tachometer to connect it to the instrument panel. where it will indicate the revolutions per minute of the engine.
It is held by a spring ring. Be sure to turn the snap ring opening 90 degrees toward the tachometer pin opening again. We never allow the openings to line up. This is your oil pump. It consists of The casing and impellers with a drive shaft are assembled. It is important to use a heavy lubricant here. For initial priming of the system, this oil pump assembly is secured to the inner side of the accessory housing using three castle nuts and three flat washers that are torqued to manufacturer's specifications and with Safety cables when attached, the output shaft engages the crankshaft gear.
A seal is applied to the decameter driveshaft housing, then we install the fuel pump pushrod which is needed to actuate the fuel pump lever. Now we've reached one of those points where we're about to close something and we should have our knowledgeable friend review our work while we step back or walk away to take a break refreshed, we can review what we've done with clearer eyes and move on. forward. Now we come to the accessory case. Blue silicon will be used in several important points. One is here where. The silk thread comes out of the crankcase, no matter how well the halves are milled, a slight valley could form with the halves, but by sewing, a drop of sealant is placed and the thread is folded over the accessory casing.
Now a gasket of the accessory housing use a manufacturer recommended sealant now all the gears and shafts are lubricated now that you are ready to put the accessory housing on you want to make sure the drive shaft is aligned with the crankshaft gear that will drive it holding the shaft in position with your hand you guide the casing down and with this for basic alignment you move it slightly until the whole unit seats itself in place, never seat this by screwing in the bolts, anything other than a light tap would suggest something is out of line or incorrect, don't do it. force anything at this point, place the housing bolts and tighten them to the manufacturer's settings and do it in the correct sequence, the propeller governor drive gear is lubricated and installed in the propeller governor drive housing, it is Install a thrust washer and hold the assembly together. with a snap ring it is mounted to the accessory housing with a gasket an alignment of the pin ensures proper assembly now we are ready to connect the oil sump the oil sump is a large unitized piece that has air collector tubes that allow induction of air and lead to where the fuel servo will be the body that will contain the engine oil when the sump is installed in the crankcase, you can see that the oil will flow over the gears that we have lubricated, providing their continuous lubrication.
A small hole in the sump allows the placement of a pre-pump oil strainer tube this is a filter that precedes the oil pump, which in turn is followed by the oil filter, it removes large particles that could clog the oil pump or filter and hinder the flow of oil during an oil change, the strainer is cleaned and the oil filter is open the type and size of the material found can give precise clues about what is happening in the engine the The prepump screen is equipped with a crush washer for the correct number of degrees and a safety cable when mounted at the crankcase-to-crankcase joint, we now see that the accessory housing gasket was left long in the crankcase.
This is done to accommodate any variations and allow cutting to the correct size. If all is well, blue silicone dots can now be trimmed and applied to the crankcase. three points where a car joins on the face of the mating surfaces adhesive is applied, the gasket is placed and the sump is placed, the bolts are tightened to specifications and in the recommended order, the propeller regulator tube is connected from the prop governor pad being adjusted the crankcase sleeves are tightened and held in place with various brackets this engine can carry an oil screen or an oil filter the oil filter swivel adapter attaches easily fits adjusts a gasket to the bolted position and torques to specifications the adapter has two inlets, one is for a temperature probe that operates the oil temperature gauge in the instrument panel, the other opening houses a Verna bypass valve therm.
This self-operated thermostatic valve exposes a hole to the oil cooling system when the Virna therm heats up, expands and covers. the hole that allows oil to flow through the oil cooling system this is a simple mechanical system that cannot be worked on or adjusted when it no longer works it is discarded and replaced the Verna thermometer simply screws on and connects with safety cables, now we have come to the adapter housing of the vacuum pump unit the vacuum pump that is outside the reach of this tape is driven by this unit and creates the vacuum necessary for the operation of some of the meters In the instrument panel the housing has an oil seal a thrust washer that prevents it from eating itself and the drive gear, they fit together and then are placed through the gear housing to be driven by the rotation of the camshaft.
The unit sits on its own and can only go in one direction. A small internal oil passage allows the oil to lubricate. the shaft while running there is also a small protruding pin that guides correct positioning do not force anything the oil pressure relief valve is now screwed into position this valve is a spring loaded ball the spring holds the ball against the Camford relief hole excess pressure pushes the ball out of the opening and allows the pressure to be relieved. You can create any level of pressure relief you want using various combinations of washers and springs.
Your manufacturer's guide will tell you how to do this. The valve is screwed with a crush. safety washer and wiring, the oil pressure fitting is now installed, the dipstick housing is now bolted to the crankcase, it is equipped with a gasket and safety cable and an O-ring seals the upper end of the dipstick the casing that is applied when the engine is installed, this is the stage in which we usually paint the engine Over time, we have developed high-tech methods to protect the internal engine from paint splashes. Be creative, you will find means to block all openings in the engine.
Now we have reached the point of installing the cylinders. cylinder overhaul, especially jobs requiring special skills and equipment, we do not cover that here, when the engine was dismantled, the cylinders were refurbished, the guide seats and valves were replaced, and the clearances were restored to engine specifications and tolerances. manufacturer, they were also repainted, now you can check the cylinders check the size of the piston skirt to the cylinder clearance the cylinders and pistons are separate pieces and both come in larger sizes. We remove the ring and insert it into the cylinder to make sure the gap between the ring and the ring ends but meets the manufacturer's tolerance.
The rings are then replaced correctly with the numbers facing up. Now we are ready to assemble. An O-ring is located at the base of the cylinder and is an oil seal. If your i/o 360 has a cooling nozzle, this is where it is. Installed, screwed and tightened, the piston is symmetrical and can rotate up or down. We have numbered each piston so that with any engine job, the same piston returns to the same cylinder in the same position in anticipation of avoiding any individual cylinder. features or quirks that cause changes during the process where we now fit a fully floating wrist pin which is supported or centered by the wrist pin plugs, these plugs can sometimes protrude and touch the cylinder walls but not to the detriment of the engine , the cylinders are now ready.
To fit them, care is taken to rotate the ring brake spaces about a third of a turn relative to each other. This again is just an extra precaution to eliminate a direct escape route for cylinder exhaust gases. A ring compressor compresses the rings to allow. they slide easily into position the cylinder is now positioned bolted and tightened as always according to the manufacturer's specifications now we begin the installation of the valve train these hydraulic units are all the same but they are milled units they are disassembled to clean them, but if something happens to them any of the parts throw them away, do not try to combine them with other companions or you will have a rough ring motor.
The unit is not filled with oil now to allow for what we call a dry tappet which allows the internal spring to function properly. it would create false resistance and give a false dry tap indication in the clearance the unit sits on the tappet which we installed with a smooth hole in the spring a lift cup is now installed which is nothing more than an adapter that goes from a surface flat to the spring end to a concave surface to meet the push rod all were lubricated before installing the push rod tubes are installed with seals on each end a spring supplies pressure to secure the tube in place a rotor cap on intake and exhaust valves pushrods are installed intake and exhaust rocker arms are molded differently to fit into their corresponding position, a thrust washer is installed and a rocker pin holds the set.
Dry tappet clearance is now checked with a go/no-go gauge to meet manufacturer specifications. /no-go means that the minimum side should fit and the maximum side should not fit into any misalignment and the clearances are adjusted by changing the actual rod. The manufacturer makes four lengths of rods and a go/no-go means you change the rods to get the correct fit. Now you can fit the rocker covers which simply consist of a gasket and rocker cover screws on the i/o 360 has a gasket cover to hold the rocker shaft in place it is bolted and tightened the intake pipes are installed The end of the sump is sealed with an o-ring.
The end of the cylinder has a flange with gasket that is screwed and tightened. The rear drain pipes are now installed. These tubes have a very specific shape for the route they must follow, so they are difficult to mix. Each has a rubber connector and a pair of clamps, each slides over a fitting in the crankcase and holds, each is self sealing on the cylinder side and is sealed with a B nut oil that sits in the cylinders, it simply drains back to the sump area through these tubes. The fuel manifold is now connected to the crankcase, its function is to evenly distribute the fuel to the cylinders.
The fuel injection nozzle is installed and tightened. The fuel line is installed and attached to the pushrod tube using Adel clamps. Now we want to rotate the engine to place the number one piston in full firing position by placing our fingers over the spark plug holes it simulates the compression as the engine rotates, you can hear the compression increase when we have determined this point, now we place the bracket of the starter gear into the holes of thepins on the base of the crankshaft each engine has a plate that indicates the firing point and the firing sequence this engine says 25 this means the spark must occur 25 degrees before the piston fully extends this spark is synchronized with two Magneto , one left and one on the right, both are the same except for one thing, as most of the engines start firing with the left side.
The left magneto has a spring-like catch called an impulse coupling that retards the first sparks when an engine is first started. You must increase your rotation speed. Normal ignition is programmed for an engine that has reached normal speed. These first sparks will fire to more accurately match the initial rotation speed. The fly weights pull on the impulse coupling, allowing the motor to return to 25 degrees before top dead center was at normal. runs when placing the Magneto, a spacer fits into the opening of the left magneto to fill the space created by the impulse coupling hanging down from the right magneto.
Without this piece, a spacer is not required when placing the Magneto, we must align the sparks for cylinder number one, each magneto has an L and an R. This asks for the direction in which the magneto will rotate and fire. This is a counterclockwise rotating magneto, so we put a thin pin on the side of the L hole and slowly rotate the magneto until the pin. it drops further, indicating that it is locked in the correct position of the number one cylinder. A slight turn indicates it's in position by a slight wobble, but don't turn too hard or apply too much pressure here as the pin could bend and cause costly problems inside the magneto that you can't see or learn about until it's too late, a coded joint and Magnets are in place.
The magneto can go any way that allows the gears to mesh, but consideration of any possible interface with the motor mounts may make you want to rotate it. so it can be in position the other magneto was also left spinning so the spin is fitted the same way a gasket is re-coated and the magnet is fitted and the pins removed. We're pretty much on target as far as timing goes, that the number one piston is over stroke and the Magneto will fire correctly, but now it's time to tune up the magneto clamps. They are finger tightened for fine adjustment and will be tightened later.
We want the points to just open because that is when they release their energy to the cylinder a magneto synchronizer is connected to the Magneto and the pins are removed the lights on the meter will come on when the points of each magnet open we want to be sure that both occur at the same time, this means that both lights must come on at the same time the synchronizer wires go to where the cab wires will be we turn the engine 25 degrees before top dead center to see how close the lights are to coming on together , you are allowed a certain tolerance as According to the manufacturer, we can hear every click in the synchronizer and they are almost exactly together, which is a fine adjustment, if necessary, they are made by turning the magneto forward or backward to match greater precision of the two sparks with the accepted tolerances.
Now you can do it. Tighten the magneto clamps and adjust the engine for timing. The ignition harness is usually connected to the aircraft, as the ignition wires are often wound through the air frame and are therefore left in position if the cover is removed or when reattached into the frame, be careful to match. all numbers from left side to left side from cylinder 1 to cylinder 1 and so on, the spark plugs are lubricated on the threads and torqued into place to manufacturer's specifications, the starter motor simply plugs in and screws in and if Your engine has an oil filter instead of an oil screen The oil filter is bolted on with torque and safety wiring The fuel servo has a gasket and is installed in the sump This servo monitors the flow of fuel and air This is the point where you will reinstall your engine a facility like the one we are using has the advantage of the test site so we can do any easily before reinstalling all the tests that are being done we are ready to fly and that is what it is about, but the excitement and The joy of aviation flying over the earth guarantees the knowledge that we have made the effort to make our time in the air safe and trouble-free, our skills as pilots allow us to do so.
It shines because our engine is reliable Mattituck Aviation has earned a reputation for excellence around the world, attention to detail, customer service and tradition of craftsmanship have earned us that reputation, whether you need repair, rebuild a replacement, tuxedo. Customer-friendly staff with over 500 years of combined experience can serve you whatever your engine needs. Our extensive parts inventory, full machine shop, and direct factory support ensures we can provide you with unmatched service right out of the box, whether Whether your aircraft is Lycoming or Continental powered, we offer only the best in quality, value and warranty. The experience of having produced more than 10,000 engines continues to earn our reputation.
Call us, write to us or visit us at any time. Our doors are always open. Mattituck Aviation Corporation one eight hundred sixty-four six six eight zero.

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