LET'S MAKE SOME ELEGANT WINTER PANTS - THISISKACHI DIYFeb 21, 2022
Hi guys and welcome back to my channel. I just got back from town and honestly I'm so cold guys. It's eight degrees outside, it's literally
winteralready, so I thought the best thing for this week would be
pants, you know? the feeling when you have the
pantson, they look great, very classy, but you freeze in them, so you'd go and put on
somethermal leggings so you don't die right. How about we
somepants that do that job? for you and you will not have to resort to leggings to wear underneath, so this week we are going to
makesome wool pants that will keep you warm that will be very
elegantand with straight legs, since I really like straight ones. leg pants right now i have this fabric that i got from my little adventure in the city it's this very very nice classic 100 wool fabric in this brown color blend so i'm really excited about these pens and i'm really excited about how i'm going to look at the end, so let's continue.
I'm going to take my base block. which i made myself if you're interested in how to make your own base blocks for your pants then go ahead and click the eye right here and i'll link you to the video once i'm done with that i can go ahead and actually made my changes in this pattern because it would never work on your base book directly obviously ok now that I have everything laid out I'll have to figure out what to do next the first thing I always do because I just don't like base block snapping usually is to do this a little bit wider like going out here a little bit more and then another thing is since I want to do a straight leg the pant legs might already work but I'm not sure about that but I sure want to have a dividing line on the front, although I can go ahead and do that, I'm just going to measure my knee line and then divide it by two, the same goes for the hem and I'll bring the line down to my waist line right here and now , first of all I can cut this out later s once I'm done with the pattern and then secondly place the dart that's still here on this line, I'll have to redraw the legs of the dart once I'm done with the pattern as these should be the same length and honestly I think I'm going to elongate the leg right here just make it sit on the inside seam of the leg and try the pattern and see if I like it because there's not much to want to change honestly let's do it ok these are the pants right now as you can see they fit pretty good so there's not much I want to do in terms of fit but first thing is I feel like there's too much bulk here , so I'm just going to take out about an inch here and just go up and make it not too tight, because I still want to be very comfortable in these pants and also because the material is a little bit thicker, but I'll just take out a little. of the curve of the hip here because it's too much I think the rise is also great I don't think that I need to add a waistband I think I'll just put the waistband on the pants the leg itself is quite wide which I like so i don't think i get anything out here the only thing here is the crotch the booty right here mid back i think it needs to come out a little more because right now it's too small here very uncomfortable i'm just showing you my butt and how it eats my pants but you know what I mean so this curve here has to be curvier down here and then I think I want to add a little bit more down here other than that I don't think I'm going to do anything else I'm going to make pockets of course so that's going to be me Think about the in-seam pockets so I have an 1/4 inch waistband and I'd like to put them here maybe up to here and I think it would look great if I did something like this to go here.
Also the pants won't have a front slit I'm going to put an invisible zipper in the center back because I want to have a clean front and I'm going to dd buttons here something like that and I think not having a front slit here just makes the design more a little cleaner so i'm going to have a zipper down the center back yeah but other than that i think this is done really i love my base block it really works every time so if not you have made yourself a base block for your pants click the link and follow my tutorial because its worth it so i prepared my pattern now and i also made these things that you need to add to your pattern so i made the pockets i made a flap of pocket which is just for aesthetics I made another pocket flap for the back for aesthetics and then also my waistband and for the front pocket I wanted to explain a bit how it works so it has four different pieces, the top pocket, the pocket or bottom I'm guessing the pocket front and then also the pocket flap how they work together you see all the notches here which basically outlines what's going on here so the pocket front goes on top of the bottom or bottom pockets big without the cutout like this that will sit on your body so where you put your hand you'll basically be placing your hand like this and since the opening is here you want to have some kind of lining in the fabric of your pocket, which is usually a different type of fabric than the outer fabric like this is kind of a thin cotton fabric um so you want to have a lining here so the pocket fabric doesn't show through so this is this piece that it will be cut out of your fashion fabric and then this here is the outer pocket the top I don't know so this goes on top here and you will go into the pocket like this so it will fold in half like the fabric will fold in half once c is trimmed and this will sit on this cut right there and you'll see there's a lot more fabric on the pocket flap than is needed that's just safety you'll cut it off once you're done put the pocket flap on the ts pan and the pocket flap also attaches to the front of the pant leg so i have mine cut in half so this is just the half there's another piece here and this will sit right here and these are the layers basically from the pockets for these kind of pants just so you see what's going on there so these three layers go on top like this then this here this here too yeah and that's it i'll show you of course , how to sew this as well, but this just so you understand and for the back you're going to find the location of the back pocket flap which is right here and what you're going to do is mark this line because this is the line you're going to have to transfer to your pattern.
So here is do where the back pocket flap will be attached. This is also too big. That is also just for safety. We're going to draw the width of this in just a second once we're doing this, but just so you know because once. you close the dart this will be at an angle and obviously on the actual pants we're going to have a straight line so you're going to have to draw on this line at a 90 degree angle from the seam of the dart and then we're going to put this here as well unfold and have something kind of a backing, we have this piece right here, the front of the back pocket that's going to sit right there and it's also too big like this, this is something for pockets like this, they're too big to cut later. once we're done with this this is going to sit like this in the middle of this year in the middle and this is going to be like this and then there's going to be an opening here so it's going to be a fake pocket we're just going to have a two centimeter wide opening , it will be sewn right there and this is the backing so we don't have a hole I was actually thinking if you're interested in how to make these parts and you like what's to know you know to make all the pants specific parts let me know in the comments and I'll be sure to like it Let's make a tech video on this so you can do it at home too if you're interested so okay after we finish cutting everything we're going to start on the back pockets.
The first thing you should do is close the back. dart you want to iron the back dart towards the center of the back we are going to prepare the back pocket flap the first thing you want to do is iron it in the middle now we are going to mark a bunch of things on the pocket flaps so first thing is the height of the pocket flap which in my case is two centimeters and then also the width of the final pocket which is 13 centimeters so we are going to mark it as a rectangle with the seam allowance on the open side now we are also going to prepare the back leg of the pant and we are also going to draw the seam line that we just marked on the pocket flap on the pant leg. 13 centimeters and then we can take our pocket flap and p place it right on top of that line we're going to pin precisely from edge to edge making sure everything is nice on top of each other and then also put another pin in the middle just just in case and then we're going to sew those two pieces together trying to be as exact as possible and trying to stitch right on top of that stitch line right here and make sure that when you bring the needle down it's going to stitch right on that edge right there and then you can go ahead and sew along the pocket flap just above the stitching line of the markings and right on the other edge now when you're done with that it should look like this you can lift up the flap from the pocket and mark the top edge which should be just 2 centimeters away and then also 13 centimeters wide so you're basically just transferring those measurements to the top side you also want to draw the to the center line of which is that one centimeter and then also close the rectangle that you are building Basically draw these little triangles inwards about one centimeter because those triangle points are where you want to open the pocket so make sure you only cut on the tip triangle to triangle tip those points and then connect them with the edges of your triangle. make sure you have a very very exact cut and when you lift up the pocket flap and fold the edges in towards the wrong side of your pants and also the triangles towards the wrong side of your pants it already looks like your welt pockets which you now want make sure you iron everything well iron between steps for the welt pockets is key to success let me tell you and that would also remove the marker lines we still have there we are going to iron the bottom edge first and then also iron the triangles which we are going to fasten later pin to pocket flap folding trays from right sides to unfold triangles, pin then sew triangles to pocket flap that you also want to b I'm very exact with this so take all the time you need and make it as exact as possible.
The next step, you guessed it, is to iron everything and look at how it already looks like a finished pocket. I am very happy with the result. The last step is to take the back pocket facing wrong side and then pin the pocket facing the right sides together with the last raw edge open and you also want to be very exact with that and line up all the seam allowances all the way. edge everything in there neatly with the front of the pocket so once I sew everything, it's also a very neat line and this is what the finished pocket looks like now there is still an opening if it went into the pocket it would still come out there, so of course you want to attach the pocket as the final step.
I'm doing it by overcasting the edges, so I'm basically doing a two-in-one step, but I'm just closing all the remaining edges from the back. pgs front of pocket and this is what the finished pocket looks like from the inside and from the outside as you can see I also added a little bucket button now lets continue with the front pocket so for the front of the pocket you want to go through skipped the round edge as you can see there i did it with both pieces and those will be attached to the bottom as the full pocket i guess the piece so you're just going to sew right into the seam allowance and then once that you get to your overlock seam, just go and sew inside this overlock seam right there and now, just for guidance, pockets with this cut will turn inside out in the pocket, but before we do anything, we want to prepare the flap of the front pocket and we are going to iron it. the half that will sit right there in the opening but not yet this is just for orientation so just save these for now the pockets and take your front part the one with the cut out as well because that's where the flap will be on the front pocket. be sewn, so you want to place the pocket flap raw edge along with the trim, like this and then you will pin it to the front piece and make sure you pin it right in the corner there that should be a centimeter from one edge and then a centimeter from the other edge as well so basically you have to mark the stitching point right there because that is exactly where you want to sew and then also cut the fabric accordingly so be very precise and cut a corner right there because then you can go around the whole edge and sew thesmallest corner of the pocket flap also on the smallest corner of your front piece and this is how it should look if you want to give it a good press and then once it's pressed down you can go ahead and cut off the excess there on top of the flap of the pocket before attaching the pockets to the front piece, although we want to do the exact same thing with the pocket piece that has the cutout, so basically you want to do the exact same thing as you did with your front piece, you're going to rotate it with the right sides together then put a Needle right in that corner also pin it to the pocket flap then sew both pieces together also cut in the corner just like you did with the front piece and you should end up having pockets that look like this from the inside also now i want to press it again this side doesn't need to be perfect because it's on the inside so it doesn't really matter what it looks like just put the bowl saddle there, you can flip it over and actually attach the other pocket to the front piece, there should be notches everywhere you can orient yourself, and of course you want to close the pocket itself.
I did it just with an overlock stitch, but of course you can also do it with a normal stitch and all the pockets are done. the worst or hardest part of those pants is completely done now take the middle front pieces and place them right sides together on the front dividing line and sew both front pieces together once you are done with that i or Verlock the seam and then also topstitch the seam towards the side seam so that this seam is really nice and neat center front. I gave it a good press and it's time to put both front pieces together so I'm getting the sides right. together and lining up the center front line that will then be sewn.
I also overlocked the seam when I was done. You want to iron the center front line to either side and then grab the back pieces that also join now, but we're going to have a zipper down the center back, so you'll find a notch down the center line of the back and you'll just sew from that notch to the inside leg seam basically and leave the other part to the waist open because that's where the zipper joins because there's a zipper down the center line of the back we want to iron the center seam of the open back because that is how it will end up lying down when the zipper is now with the back and front pieces already Completely done we can put the front piece right side up and put the back piece right side down so the sides rights are together and pin the side seams to sew both sides of the pants together I guess.
Finally, I also want to mention that I always overlock. in between all the steps as you can see there's always the overlocked edge after I'm done and when I'm ironing I'm basically overlocking this raw edge after I sew it as you can see here and then I press it to the back piece also make sure that when you are joining the side seams you catch the pockets in the side seam because those should be sewn in the side seams up to that corner that is in the pattern that you are going to see if you have the pattern in front of you is this corner after you are done with That, we can go ahead and bring the inner leg seam together so you just want to line the front and back pieces together over the crotch line and then back to the other leg and just sew both pieces together also overlock after this and iron the seam allowance also towards the back now before we can put the center back zipper we will have to prepare the waistband because we need to sew I iron a corner to the pants so the first thing we're going to do is iron the waistband down the middle and once that's done we iron the seam allowance on one side on the waistband I just press it all the way down again so everything sits just right and then once done with that we can go ahead and pin that raw edge that's not ironed on the pans so we're going to start mid back where the slit is and go around the entire waistband of the pants and pin pin the waistband on the pants now you saw me put notches in the center front that's why I can line up the center front now that it's only half the waistband so make sure you mark that notch as well before pinning the waistband to your pants as it's just not much easier and now we can sew the waistband to the pants it's time for the zipper we're not going to finish the waistband yet we need to attach the zipper and to to do so we're going to iron the waistband seam allowance on the waistband so upwards that's just so it's tucked in nice and no longer visible once we're done with everything this is the zipper I'm going to use you'll need a 30 to 35 zipper inches long I made I couldn't find a zipper that length so I had to go and buy a 24 inch long invisible zipper which is fine too as long as it's longer than the length you need.
You can always cut it now. You want to find your plastic stopper and pin. that just below the fold line we just pressed on the waistband and then you can go ahead and pin the zipper up to where the opening starts also make sure you pin the seam allowance as you pressed it now I'm changing my foot to my invisible zipper foot and that makes it really very easy to put on the invisible zipper. Still, I'm opening the zipper teeth for the best possible result, so when I close the zipper it shouldn't be visible at all, the easiest method I found. transferring the positions of the zipper to the other side that you will sew next is putting pins as markers i guess i know where the positions are mirrored on the other side so that's what i'm doing here i'm trying to be really very neat and I'm taking my time doing this because this will be a dead giveaway at the end if they don't line up perfectly I would redo them so I'm trying to do the best I can here and fix the zipper as best as possible after inspection Quick, I'm fine with the result, the top edge looks really great and the waistband is maybe half a millimeter off of nothing, nothing a good press can't fix and also the lowest point where the seam is actually sewn together there it's also very nice so I'm happy with it I'm leaving it and also the zipper is almost invisible so that's really good the next step is to finish the waistband so what qu What you want to do is fold the seam with the zipper bed and then fold the waistband down so that it is right sides together with the zipper band, then you should leave the seam allowance folded up as you pressed it earlier and place pins to hold it in place because now you can just sew along that edge right there and basically hide the top edge of the zipper inside the waistband, you can do that with your normal presser foot.
However, I went with my one sided foot because it's a bit easier since the teeth are out of the way and don't touch the presser foot and that's how it should end up looking like you can just flip it over so the teeth come out and then just zip it up so you can inspect me it looks pretty good so I'm happy with the result and the next step will be to finish the waistband so that I just want to put the folded edge of the waistband right over the stitches that made earlier to attach the waistband to the pants and hide them because we're going to sew from the outside side from the right side of the pants and right in the trench so basically we're sewing right on top of the stitches we just made so if you put the folded edge right on top you'll catch the waistband from the outside without looking at it if that makes sense so be really neat and tidy and just pin everything together just above the stitches and you should be able to blind sew the waistband more or less because the right side will be up and the pins will be in place which you will need to remove of course before you sew over them press all over again so the waistband look really neat and you can also inspect if it caught the waistband everywhere around your pants in my case i did so i was able to continue with my pants and then i put those pants on and i actually realized they were a little bit too big , so I went back to my waist and opened it up in the front where my front dividing line is and like inside the pockets and added pleats and cut the waist accordingly, I think I cut them four inches, like a waist hole size because my waist tends to be more on the side of an xs while my hips are an s so i used s as a size but forgot i have to shrink my waist obviously though that's what i It turned out and I'm pretty happy with the pleats in the front anyway, so if you have the same problem, you can just put pleats in the front and then cut the waistband accordingly and have them also fit around your waist if you're between sizes. like me, the last thing is to fold the pans.
I bent the bent legs up four centimeters. good press and that's it and that's it for today's video hope you liked it I'm really in love with the pants and I'll of course show you some videos of me wearing them so you can see how they look on a person but before that's just going to ask hit the subscribe button below if you haven't already. I'm uploading videos like this or other videos on design, pattern making and fashion in general every Sunday so go ahead and subscribe so you never miss a video and then also hit the bell to get notified every time I post next , also go ahead and follow me on my social networks.
I'm posting a lot behind the scenes about my job of course my life my cat anything there might be so go ahead and follow me there just one other thing though before I show you the Warren pants if you haven't checked out my school yet course I launched a few weeks ago Go ahead and click the link below and check out my courses. I am teaching you how to pattern from life with 10-15 students to get a really personal experience and you can ask all the questions you might have about pattern making. I'm going to show you doing some blogging first but I want this to really be like a school so we're going to go and progress from basic blogging to more advanced stuff and yes if you took all the classes the goal would be for you to be able to do your own patterns and your own clothes so go ahead and check out the first link in the description the first class is already next week so you only have a week to sign up for my first class which you should definitely do I'm very excited. to launch this and have my first live class with you, thanks to all the people who have already signed up.
I'm super excited and have a little discount for everyone who isn't sure yet, so go ahead and check that out. first link me n the description and yeah that's it thanks so much for looking and see you next sunday bye guys so y'all
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