KUSTOM PAINTING MADE EASY WITH MASTER PAINTER JON KOSMOSKI

Hello, I'm John Cosmoti. Welcome to custom

painting

made

easy

during this program. I am going to share with you my 47 years of experience as a custom

painter

. We'll take an old gray car and turn it into a fine gem. I will teach. You have techniques that will make you proud to create quality work, one that will impress your friends using House of Kolor products and the tricks we will teach you to make your work so good that clients will beat their way to your door. Our vehicle in question, a 1977 Camaro, spent its entire life in Southern California.

We don't expect to find any rust on this car but we are going to have to take it apart and it was repainted once it left the factory so we don't know what we are going to find underneath, look how horrible the bumpers are, we will paint them to match, we will remove the upper and lower side moldings, we will remove the emblems so we have a nice clean look. We are going to black out the grille and headlight doors, it will change the look of the car, we will change the wheels and tires, but we have to remove the paint, so the first thing we will do is double tape all the parts. seams around the doors and windows and so that no paint remover gets in, we will use this aircraft stripper.

It is an inexpensive way to strip a car. It is necessary to have established security factors. Methylene chloride when it arrives. If it gets on the skin or gets in the eyes, it can cause serious damage, so we wear gloves, we wear glasses, and it has an odor. It doesn't even hurt to wear a respirator right now because these things can make you nauseous when you breathe it but look how it removes the paint. It's amazing how he'll react now because he has two paint jobs. Don't expect an application to remove a high brush in one direction because there is paraffin in the system coming through. the surface and allows penetrating chemicals to go down and remove the coating.

This is important, don't brush back and forth like this, it alters the paraffin and you won't get the penetrating quality of the stripper you want. Now there are others. There are other ways to strip a car than with a chemical stripper, but it works just fine. Now use a scraping pad or three or four numbered steel wool and that will activate the stripper and help you after a certain period of time to remove the rest of the paints and then go over it with a putty knife. Remove it so it doesn't make too much of a mess on the floor and place it in a cardboard box with the bottom taped down, which really makes cleanup much easier.

Use squeegee to remove it. It will take a couple of applications, but come on, we have removed most of it now we wash it one last time with a solvent wipe. I prefer acetone because it vaporizes quickly and is a very good cleaner. Now you'll notice that we don't have all the spots that we certainly have. I'm going to have to DA the metal to get a good edge now that we've removed everything with the exception of the front group because they are

made

of plastic, the paint remover can affect them and soak into them and cause some damage. notice the paint left in all the openings we had masked, we just took some 80 grit to remove the remaining paint.

We did this to prevent the remover from getting into those stuck areas, which can really be a mess now that we have to evaluate. On our body here, we noticed that they had drilled holes to make a dent and neglected to weld them. We have to deal with that, so we go in and remove the plastic filler that was applied from those holes. Now it is not enough to just drill. We take them out and solder them, we want to make sure our welds stay and the way to do that is by using a countersink tool.

We just countersink the edges so our welds have a big edge to grab onto and look how nice that is. the ones that are available now we do that on every hole that we are going to weld on the body including where the emblems were, where the moldings were before the welding was done, now before we do the welding we have to clean the metal , we want to make sure that I have a nice clean surface. I highly recommend using a 24 grit 5 inch high speed grinder, but don't use it at high speed, just run it fast enough to clean the adjacent metal body.

It's in your hands. This is the wrong way you need. To lay your hand flat and move it back and forth and you don't even have to look at the area, the hand will tell you what is high and what is low and you need to train yourself to be able to use your hands to feel the body. Now we are going to solder our holes using a soldering iron that is designed specifically for sheet metal. You can also gas weld the holes using brazing. Lay the ground. Put on the suit. Protect yourself. Solders quickly. Minimum placements. no warping with a wire feeder now we go in with a 24 grit grinder and grind out the high spots.

We are also cleaning up metal in other areas that we haven't welded yet. This also works to remove high spots from old molding. The clips get rid of them and then we're going to clean up the area that we know needs bodywork. Here we have the gloved hand, but a cloth will do the same. Now with a super 24 grit sander, let's get into it. You could also use a large 9 inch grinder. Many

painter

s and carpenters prefer to use the large grinder, but I like the small ones for small jobs. It works well in this area. Make sure all the metal is scratched if you see spots. that won't scratch, tilt the grinder into those areas to make sure this is what will give you the adhesion qualities we need for the plastic filler that comes next, when you want to apply the least amount of plastic filler as possible so that we can We need to make sure we have the metal where we want to use a small grinder to get those small spots even a grinder in certain areas to make sure they're nice and clean.

There is a high point that we are going to deal with. that using a spoon that distributes the load hammers the school and does not make small dents knocks down larger amounts of metal so that it is as we want before the putty starts again checking with your hand once You have the area clean and ready, it's time to apply the filler. I'm mixing the filling. It's fundamental. You need a flat, clean board. You need the hardener to make sure the benzoyl peroxide is mixed well. This is essential for many men. and painters omit this step.

Laboratory tests have shown that the benzoyl peroxide and hardener begin to separate within four hours. Putting the correct amount of hardener into the caulk is essential. They have a color guide that ensures you get the right amount. keep that guide handy when you're mixing if you're new to this here we put what we think is necessary and we don't cut the filling this way this puts air bubbles in the right way it's hard medium light hard medium light and you're doing this a lot faster when I'm mixing, I'm slowing down so you can see the action and then I'll run the squeegee up to the board and take it off my squeegee completely, even marking the edge to make sure there's no plastic filler without mixing everything has to touch the hardener and you continue doing this until it looks uniform by the time you are happy with the uniform look you can start putting it on the car now what?

What we are doing is removing the air bubbles by mixing them in this way and we put them in the car in the same way using strong pressure and squeezing them down. Air bubbles can be horrible when you have a paint job that has plastic caulk in it. with air bubbles and that starts to show in your paint job, it's not good now we are very careful to apply it evenly and not apply too much, it applies much easier than it comes off. I'll tell you. that and you don't want to work harder than necessary, the idea is to use your hand, know where to put it heavier and then go over it with a putty knife, it's nice and as even as possible because it reduces sanding time, the better the job will be.

What you do is put the filler in with the least amount of work you will have to do to remove it. Now you realize I'm going in the other direction. There's no reason not to go back because whichever way you take out the filling, that's what it's going to be like now. Here we will use a dust-free sanding system because we don't want dust all over the shop or in our noses, just where good safety equipment, goggles every time you use tools, protect you now, we will put the sandpaper. The clay pig is made by Hutchins and is designed to pierce paper and when you pierce it, it allows the vacuum to pick up the sanding debris so you don't see dust flying around the workshop.

It's really nice to have a tool. well and these really remove the filler quickly we are using 40 grit here you can also use 36 grit so whenever I work the clay I usually use 36 or 40 grit again with a gloved hand or a hand with a rag remember We don't want to transfer oil to bare metal which may cause delamination. Try to keep skin contact to an absolute minimum at all times during the paint job. Sandpaper manufacturers are now making this sandpaper with an existing hole punch which saves you time. When doing that punching we now use tools because tools save time and time is money in the shop.

Here we are using a power blocker to help block the sand with speed but remember this only goes back and forth inches from our hand when using a hand block we can go forward and back a full foot or more and certainly the Hand blocking in the end is the only way to go and that's what we're doing here, we're going to go in now and hand block and there's no reason not to do it. Guide code at this stage, if you want you can use some contrasting color primer, spray a little bit of that there when you're blocking to see where the high and low spots are, but they show up pretty well and you start blocking manually . everything starts coming home, you'll start to figure out what's high and what's low and then using your hand, your gloved hand or the rag in your hand and moving it back and forth, it tells you exactly where you are and we get out of the block.

You notice how we were doing that Xing in one direction Xing in the other direction but holding the block there is a low point. You can see that there are different sized blocks being sanded for different areas. We will use the longer block for the large, flat areas. It is essential that we want this body to be completely flat, if it is not, it will show in our paint. Now we know we have to add additional plastic filler so now we're going to go over it with a regular 80 grit sander. making a scratch and all the metal so we know wherever we put the filler it's going to stick because we've created that tooth and this is where a lot of painters make mistakes, you know, you have to put a tooth in that metal if you're going to put something on it and you want it to stick.

You can't forget this part. This is critical. We'll end up doing the whole car. In fact, many panelists and painters start with that 80 grit from the beginning. even before they scratch other parts of the metal from the excess body, it also shows the high and low points of the body when you use that tool, but nothing beats the hand, remember to blow between ads to get everything out of those slots, so that we have a good scrape pattern for the next layers of fill, clean it up really well before mixing the next batch now we are going to put in a skin ad the first ad got us really close we just want to put in a light skin ad to complete this for the final block of the hand notice how hard I'm going through it with the squeegee it barely wants to get there.

I'm squeezing the squeegee so hard this is the way to go we want this to be flat and nice. It will be our last listing, we will do it in all the places where we feel we need it, the welding created some warping in some areas that we had to deal with now, if there are severe low spots you can use the stud welders to lift them up and they won't let's do it. Drill holes in the metal, clean the mixing pad and squeegee with acetone immediately after adding it to the car and then when you go to reuse it it will be ready to go, there are no rough spots that can cause bad mixing now that we have let it harden.

I don't like my plastic filler to get too hard if you go into it when it is partially cured with very coarse 36 grit and 40 grit sandpaper. It sands very easily. Use the small blocks to get into the tight spots and curve up here. Raise the fender, see for yourself now. I like to take some 80 grit and put it on a block and remove the top of the plastic filler before using my spray filler or my primer. This reduces the amount of filler required, but don't try to finish it completely with grain.80, that would be a mistake.

Sometimes you work too hard and get nowhere. Now we are practically ready. We have so much body on the side of this car that we decided to use. a spray filler and there are a lot of different companies that make spray fillers and they have a very high solids polyester base and they actually apply quite a bit of grind, probably four times as much per coat as a primer and we'll do that strictly based on the areas of the bodywork so we have one more chance to block everything up, now blow it out really well, clean it again with a good final wash solvent, don't use tar wax and grease remover at this stage because a lot of those tar wax and grease removers penetrate into the filling and can cause you serious problems.

Make sure the product you are using is listed as final. Now we make one called KC 20 which is very good. De Beer is a great European car paint company that specializes in standard colors. If you are using your polyester spray caulk, spend time stirring the hardener in the can. Do not place these products in a shaker, the heat generated will cause them to displace. Use a paint gun designed specifically for heavy fillers one that preferably has a nozzle and needle combination of 1.8 to 2.2 fiberglass coating also produces a sand finishing material which is a spray based filler. polyester many other companies make these products the only time we use them is when a car has an extensive body like this car and we are going to apply two or three coats just on the body areas so we can give it another good block before priming .

We don't always do this, but in particular cases we will and this car had extensive bodywork that we want. okay, take your time, put on nice coats, even wet ones, don't mix more than you can use, you can't keep it and make sure you take it out of the gun and clean it thoroughly before fifteen minutes or it will be damaged. kick in the gun guide coats are now available in spray but you can also use the 3m powder material or in my case I use old number 70 lacquer which I still have some left in an old paint gun and just Dakota powder which is the The only place lacquer is used in car refinishing today.

I don't use lacquer fillers or anything like that as we said before. If they can be moved by solvents, we certainly don't want them in or around our work. We want a job that Lastly, we get the guide code everywhere and set up our blocks with thick paper, usually nothing finer than 100 grit. I prefer 80. This is actually a DA that you can use, it has 80 grit and you can also use the Sanders inline orbital block and They work well in certain applications. This is not the final arena, so a properly held DA can be used, but I prefer blocking because blocking tells me exactly what I need.

Now we need to clean our blocks well with a razor blade and ruler. Make sure they are clean because if you have an uneven surface and you put paper on it, you won't get a real block. We use 80 grit. It is an unfilled grate available with adhesive backing on a roll. The paint manufacturers offer it, then with a long block we will do our cross block and check our body. Now this will tell us what kind of work we have done. A lot of times you hit it the first time, but here we are. metal and we have a low point around it so we don't have perfection but we are working towards it using the Xing move but keeping the block front to back the only time we make a turn is when the curve goes down. as it does on the deck lid, now again blocking over and over again, it's amazing how much filler you get with this spray filler, now we can see the spots we know we need to add small amounts of putty to a catalyzed spray putty. could be used again, but it's actually faster to use a small spot putty that is specifically designed for nothing thicker than an eighth of an inch and dries immediately, you practically have to run to the car after mixing it, it hardens that hard. fast when I do it.

I added it and cleaned my mixing paddle. I can go back to it and start sanding it so it doesn't stop our progress at all, but it's important that we want to hone these additions into these little low spots where the primer could get them, but we're not going to take that risk. We have our spots covered as quickly as we clean our palette. We're back now with 80 grit and we're locking this in, you don't have to wait. to fully cure, if not fully cured many times, it will just stain the paper. Check your paper and you'll be able to tell very quickly if it's cured enough or not, but it cures in five to eight minutes, it's that fast now that we have it. we fill our low spots and we're ready to go now we're using that orbital block on the curved areas, save time and it's just a matter of time, your shop time is what people pay you for if you can do it faster.

That's money in your pocket now we are manually blocking to get our body line back. I'm looking at the guide layer carefully and I notice that I'm using a long block here, so when I go from the quarter panel I switch to a smaller block, so I feel more comfortable with that curve. You'll notice I'm not going to flare the fender at all until I get to a round block, the square blocks would put a slot there and we can't take that risk, so here we're fixing our block back over the fender opening for good continuity here.

Now our body line doesn't quite match the door. Bring in a small block and spend some time lining up the marks that we want it to have right now coming from the On the bottom we can again make sure that our spikes are correct, that's a big part of making the body, making sure that the lines of the body work. Now we're ready for our primer, so we're masking the inside of the door jambs, we're masking our landing areas. because we don't want paint getting on those areas, that's for sure it's a mess trying to clean everything up we don't want the primer to get on and that epoxy primer likes to stick to the things that we're cutting a hole in. so we can open the door to get in and prime the areas of the body that we have inside the jams, we fold our rag into a square and clean it with a final wash and make sure not to use a wax and tar grease remover here we want to see it labeled as final wash, that is important, at some point there may be residue from certain wash materials now we are shaking our primer part A Part B mix one by one our KP a C F stands for chromate free Part A and Part B, Both parts have filler and you want to spend time making sure they are well mixed.

Now there is no incubation time required with this primer, the fast cure sets in the moment the two meet, the old EP two if Remember we had a 30mm incubation time, so we are going to put two cups of 24 ounces of Part A and we will combine them with two 24 ounce cups of Part B and remember that both sides have filling, replace the lids. the can when you finish taking it out it's hard to get a new gallon out while I've been doing it I still screw up from time to time even after I've taken out the first quart or the first Pour the second pour can still run down the back of the can can, no matter how hard we try, that's why we use a steel mixer.

You can keep it clean and tidy. Now put the lid on, put it in the shaker for just a few minutes, not even. two it doesn't take much if you're using the glass adhesive cloth, open it all the way up because we want it to dry a little bit. We want the resin to dry so it doesn't stain. vehicle, if you are using newer style sticky cloths, they do not require this because there is a sticky material on the inside of the cloth and they are not designed to open. Now we treat our primer as if it were paint that we strained.

To make sure there are no clumps, we make sure to paint the car just as we are

painting

it, as if we were using paint. This is where we start training on how we are going to paint this object that we air. Integrate the car carefully to remove all the lint and be sure to do the paper as well. We consider that part of the car, if there is lint on the paper, it will be removed at work, so tack everything except the adhesive rag and an old one. coffee can, keeps it workable and sticky review your patterns, determine what your overlap increment will be with a 50% overlap, make the bands, make sure all the edges are placed on a good middle layer to start and we'll start to wet it after this.

How many coats of primer do I like: three coats on the bare steel and two additional coats on the body. The way I usually do it is I put one coat on the body first, but in this case we've already used the spray filler, so I'm just going to apply three coats to the main car overall. I'm not going to do any extra. Walk along. This is where we start training to apply the sweet paint job. We started learning how to do that walk. There is nothing difficult in this, except handling the hose. You need to know where the air hose is at all times.

You need to hold the hose properly so that it doesn't hit the side of the car. These are all important parts of the paint job except the hose control. is a big part of this, particularly when we get into the candy and climb up and down a ladder to do a perfect paint job on that ceiling, don't be afraid to crouch and kneel to be sure. you get primer underneath, it's never a bad idea to have a knee pad on the outside, your painters suit a light knee pad, they work great to drop down to your knees to make sure those low areas of the car get a good grip on the gun. parallel as much as possible, you won't put it anywhere with a good overlap pattern, making sure you do it right by holding the gun correctly at the right angle.

It's funny how well things work when you're that robot. I want you to do it. think like a robot when you are there putting on this primer and talk to yourself like this I am a robot I am a robot we have the primer on and it is prepared for 14 hours, we will guide it by covering it if you put too much primer on it, it is not a bad idea to let it sit for longer, it will recommends up to 24 hours. You can tell if the primer is not cured properly because it will start to gum up the sandpaper when you sand it.

You will get seeds that don't happen when primers cure and this primer doesn't shrink. Another good thing is that not only does it adhere super well and have tremendous flexibility, but it sticks like glue. Now we go to our Wet Sanding Stage, which is the final stage before the sealer. We fold the sandpaper in half, tear it in half and fold it in three. For this reason we want to fold everything before it goes into the water because the paper will curl. water and we are supposed to soak it for a minimum of 20 minutes before using it to soften the back.

Now you can see with the 3 fold method how well the pads fit inside, even small pads and larger pads fit into this. It folds up perfectly and that's great for large, flat areas. The reason for the triple fold is that we can use a random sanding pattern and you'll see when we do the second one. I used this mainly on motorcycles, but it works for small areas. Break the halves. Fold them in half and intertwine them. The reason for doing this is that we can do different lateral movements and the sandpaper doesn't come out of your hands because of the way you folded it.

Now you can dip into the water and soak. I do not use it. Ivory liquid when I sand the primer Kings Bharata Germany also makes a wet sticky sandpaper and I use their 320p grade to sand the primer. It is very sticky, as you can see when you make a mistake on the pad, it is difficult to remove. make sure your pad is clean and put it down and it works great keep it moist and well lubricated use the ex method we use during the process of sanding holes in the body and everything else, the guide code shows you your blocking errors, the Low spots just keep blocking until they go away because of all the pre-work we've done, we know this primer will get us where we want to be.

Each coat of dry and wet primer should be applied at 1 mil, meaning we have 3 mils of primer there. Check your work with a squeegee. In fact, you can use the squeegee that goes inside the sandpaper to remove it. We're not using the half round to complete our wet sanding in the areas that we're concave and that's it. It's important that we don't want any grooves in there now because they will pick up in our paint job. Use blocks when it makes sense, but use thecommon sense. We have sanded the entire car, we have gotten rid of all of our guide layer and now we are going to start our design, the first thing we need to do is find the center and then use 2 inch tape on each side of the center, which will be our space between our design.

Our goal here is to put Yenko style stripes on the hood and trunk and we're going to measure the back of the hood to make sure it's even. Let's check our curves to make sure the design is identical. It's amazing how much you can do with your eyeball, but not a tape measure. Don't lie and you want to make sure you get it right, use small pieces of masking tape to mark your areas or you can use a grease-free pencil like a Stabilo which also works and doesn't affect the paint application. Here I am using the tape to mark a point so that it is the same from one side to the other nothing will make you sicker than making a design and discovering that it is not the same from one side to the other measuring the edge of the hood getting it right a little time spent here it really comes back to you in the long run now when we come across the hood opening or a door opening you can also go in and open the hood and tape those edges so the design continues across the open hood this really shows fine details. and that's what we're doing here to make sure our design is approved.

You can also do it in traffic jams. If you are paid for it, it takes more time and the client must understand that time is money. Yenko stripes had a main stripe and then a quarter inch stripe going around it, so we used a quarter inch piece of tape as a guide and then used the plastic tape around the outside for most of our year recording, as you see. making with crepe tape, but you can use plastic or crepe, they work just as well. The reason crepe tape works with our base coats is that they are not prone to sliding under the crepe tape like some paint companies' base coats now do.

Outside we make the trunk, we make the hood and we start to look at the work and we think you know something, it sure would look good if we had stripes on the top. Yenko never did that, but we decided yes, we'll add stripes on top. Above, find the center again, the most important part of the design is finding the center, whether it's a motorcycle or a car, and then we put our tape on the roof, something that looked good and worked, we had to taper it a little on the rear. to match the rear trunk that we did, now we're doing our final wipe down and we're going to mix our sealant.

The three bases that we are going to use on this car are the MBC and there are super metallic ones, they are beautiful but we need to put a sealant under each one. One of them that matches the first one we are going to use is the Black Diamond and that requires a black base. The mixing ratio in the sealant is 1:1. Look at your mixing container. Look at the highest number, for example. Let's go to number four. The highest number four is the total amount we are going to mix. We added the sealant, catalyst and reducer to get it to those marks.

Don't guess, everything we do must be measured. The second number. the four can be our catalyst or our reducer, we choose to use the reducer, there is no sequence when it is mixed, we press the second number four, now we get the catalyst and we are going to do the third number four, which will give us our four one ratio one take it to the last four there we are now all we have to do is mix see four lines cross we hit the four lines that's the important thing strain it in the gun we treat it like paint we make sure there are no lumps in it we are using the bag system here from the developers to prevent gun drips and siphoning down, allows us to paint at different angles without worrying using our fluffy sticky rag that we let dry, let's go in and cross out all the lint from the rags we use to clean the vehicle checks and balances now let's set our pattern by rotating our air head vertically we get a horizontal pattern, now we can measure this and know exactly how wide our pattern is on our given paint distance, this tells us how much our increment is , in this case about two inches, make sure you get good coverage, do the band pass, make sure you get good coverage, pay attention to our overlap increment, lay down the good wet layer, finish the roof. hood all we need is a good coat remember paint doesn't turn the corner we as painters have to make that corner turn always remember to make the band note I'm shooting at that grate from the other side the reason now that you can't angle the gun the right way to paint the back of that grille and that happens during this whole paint job, we're covered, this is the end, now we're going to go out and mix our bass, how?

How long should the sealant sit? I like it to sit for a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. I don't believe it will last any longer. I know our instructions say the sealer can sit longer, but common sense tells me to apply that paint so it does. We'll join that sealer while it's green and while it's receptive these are the three bases available in MVC pale gold, platinum and black diamond. We are using the MBC o3 Black Diamond over our black sealer, one of the things you will learn in Custom Painting is to make sure your sealer is close to your base color, it saves you time, money and pain because things happen fast when the sealer Matches top layers.

Now we're using a slow drying reducer here because on these super metallics I really like them. so it sets well and if the reducer is a little slower those sealers tend to set much better, yes you will have a little more time to wait between coats but it's worth it. The amazing thing about these sealers is how fast they cure and these base coats are very metallic, but they go on smooth, looking like a medium flake. Now look what we are picking up with our sticky cloth. Putting on the sealant is always a good idea to stick the sealant on now that the tack cloth got pretty messed up, but I'll keep it anyway.

I have a couple of coffee cans, one with good sticky rags and the other would be for sticking rags back on. The bandpass type pattern is superimposed. We establish our pattern. We're moving the gun about an inch and three-quarters wetting it. On that base we are going to put three coats of base, that's what they call four in the instructions, three nice wet coats that allow drying between each one using invisible straight lines, behaving like a robot, putting the paint in the best way we can. We know, how we start adjusting the gun. We need the fan control to be wide.

Bring in the material knob for the size of the pattern we want. Check it out on our pattern on the wall and then start painting. This is fun. This is a fun part of painting. Here is our last layer, letting the pattern overlap. Keeping your weapon parallel is very important, there is no time to be casual. Now we are designing the bottom half. Our goal here is to use all three bases and we are going to use the Platinum and the MB co2 from the brake line down. on the side of the car, so I'm using a roll of three-quarter inch crepe tape and I'm using that to set up my design because the thicker tape gives me a nice straight pull, watching it very carefully and placing it the way I wanna. cutting it into the door jambs this is the material we are going to use now here is a little problem we make a silver sealant but we don't make a platinum sealant we have to build our own the platinum is darker we have to take our metal sealant and mix in some black, so we use the KSR 11 and add small amounts of black at a time to make a gray metallic sealant, adding more black until I'm satisfied it's dark enough as I want. it's a little bit darker than the base, the platinum base, we're stirring the base, we're comparing it to our sealant, yes, it's done, it's a little bit darker than our existing metal, that's what we need, we go in and nail this area on the undersides of the car and we go ahead and use the same 1:1 mix ratio in the mix sealant, pour it into our gun, check our pattern and apply the sealant.

You know, if there's a trick to custom painting, put that sealer close to that base color. save time, you'll save money and sealants are incredible what they do, they create a tremendous bonding layer with the sanded primer, they work very well for that and they also give us the coloration that we want, I don't know. from anyone else that makes a metal sealant and that metal sealant is a real workhorse, as you'll see as we continue with this work, make sure you have your wheelhouse as well, make sure the tail sections rest on your hands and knees and Make sure the rockers are done right now that we're mixing our metallic.

You can also apply a second coat if you need to. Add a little more reducer to that sealant. Now this is a two to one mix on the Platinum aspect. like a medium flake, but goes on so smooth it will blow your mind. Put it in wet. Use a medium dry reducer or slower reducer to set. Walk along whenever possible. Don't stop at the edges of the doors, that's a big mistake in the custom world, in fact I find that standard painters who paint cars for a living have learned a long time ago that walking the length of the car gives them a better paint job and definitely reduces the chances of everything running parallel to the air head.

Get those lower areas down, man, that's important, look at the knee pads, the rubber knee pads, you don't want to be kneeling on straight concrete when you're doing body work, when you're doing anything, it's not good for your cartilage. knee, it will cause you big problems. Later in life it's best to take care of three good coats, just like we did with the Black Diamond, put it somewhere nice and humid. I always hold the gun pretty close when you start moving it too far, it goes out of control of the air horns on the gun and starts splattering paint on the side of the car.

A quality painter adjusts his gun down using the stock knob so you can have close control. Now we have two of the bases. we can pull the tape how long to wait usually 30 to 45 minutes the idea is to pull the tape back and forth that's a little mistake but notice how I'm doing it with the outline. back and forth, we have removed all the tape now and now we have to reverse the tape, in other words, everything that has the base, now we are going to tape it because we need to protect it so we can put it on. our last and final base, which is pale gold, do you understand what we are doing here?

We are joining the bases together so that there is no one base thicker than the other. All base coats will come out with the same mileage. so when we put our candy work on top of all of this, there will only be one gauge of base coat on the entire car, fold the paper, eliminate the amount of tape contact with those bases, now you could use SG 100 on those bases. layers before removing the tape and many smart painters do that. We didn't do it in this case because there's no contrast color that's going to hurt us here, but on motorcycle tanks and other things, the SG 100 can be a real workhorse to protect that. surface now, for example, if I were going to put flames over one of those bases before doing that, I would want my SG 100 down, which is nothing more than a clear base coat and allows me to sand out mistakes if sanded directly. on a primer, you're in big trouble now, when you do your tape outs, always leave a little bit of the contrast primer showing just enough that you can barely see it and then you know no primer will show. that's important on tape outputs it takes a little time but it goes fast, we're doing all this work in one day so we started early and we've been going steadily, now we mask everything carefully, you know, all the work is done in the The preparation, the activation time is fun, now we need to mix a base that matches the pale gold and use the Spanish gold KK 14 and mix one ounce with 24 ounces of the silver base coat creates a perfect pale gold base .

I mean, it's amazing. and that's going to make applying our pale gold so

easy

that it's going to take a couple coats of that because the first coat is like a pattern, just a little bit, we pour it on like paint, all we're going to do here is like we're painting the The car sets up its pattern, the first coat is applied with a speed gun and what I do a lot of times on the second coat is go to the paint bench and add another ounce of additional reducer. It's amazing what a little reducer does.

To remove the modeling of the sealant we apply two coats of this, a long time of flashing between how much time of class 810minutes is usually sufficient in a shop that is at normal paint temperature. I don't like to see any paint done in a shop below 70 degrees, it really reduces the amount of solvent that is removed from the film when the shop gets colder than that straight line, thinking about becoming that robot that I want it to be A custom painter is a robot when he starts doing custom work. Don't let the converging panels fool you, make sure you get in and turn the corners, put the sealant where you need it, don't miss any spots because they will come after you if you do, you start putting that metal in that they almost didn't. cover it all if they don't have a primer underneath, you're really having trouble applying our sealer, it's critical, go a little faster for the second coat.

Note that I don't go all the way back on the hood on that single pass. You have to read the work as you go and determine which invisible straight lines you are going to use to traverse the piece, but the hoods are always wider in the back than in the key element of walking along, learning to control. that air hose so you don't trip over everything important remember when you go along the front paint everything you need paint don't waste movement economy of movement save time there is enough work involved here without doing more walking along visible straight lines, this is fun You know, there's nothing more fun than doing quality work, pride in the workmanship never goes away, the

master

, this shit, once you don't realize it, I'm not in a big hurry, I've got my gun ready so I can I am in control.

Where is my concentration? I'm watching how the sealant is applied. I'm paying a lot of attention to it. It's fundamental. You know you can't be looking at the ceiling. You want to see how the paint is applied. I want to try to be as robotic as I can, I mean, I'm a human being and we all make mistakes, but I'm trying to do the best I know how and if you think like a robot, you'll do this kind of work, you'll have a lot of fun doing it with steps. short and nice so you don't bounce up and down.

Look at that hose. I always have it under control. I don't want it to hit the side of the car. The sealant is covered and looks good, here we go. with the base, setting the gun on a 1:1 pale gold ratio, wet it, this is our last base coat, wet it and apply three coats just like we did with the other two bases, very wet and it's amazing how much of material of this material. you can't appreciate it in a fluorescent light atmosphere when you see this car outside after painting it with the candy, you'll know what I'm talking about and it sounds so smooth these basses, like I said, have that medium scale look to them. without the work there is no roughness when the candy is applied this paint job is going to be smooth don't forget that your band goes along the edges of the windshield and the rear glass forget that the paint does not go around the corner note that I slightly tilted the gun on the front end better when I went over the way the curve of that sheet metal is subtle, little movements to try to keep parallel with that air cap, do it right here, nice, wet, cold, very fun, it's a happening precision. right in front of your eyes doing the walk doing it evenly, it's surprising how nice and even this pace continues using a tight pattern overlay, remember 75% pattern overlay.

I mean, there's some inconsistency in my distance, since I want the idea to be if you. You've got it stuck in your mind, that doesn't mean anything, a minor inconsistency won't, as you'll see as we complete, we're going with our third and final coat nice and wet right on the back of the gun, so I'm pulling the trigger . I pull every time based on my gun's adjustment, remember that gun's adjustment knob does nothing but restrict the trigger. You get the same trigger every time because you did it with Justice and I know a lot of painters who can't understand how I can paint so close.

It's because I adjusted the gun if there is a The secret is that the layers of vinyl are happening, it doesn't take much of this primer to do the job, it's not very useful either, mainly because we have the sealant that tones us. I had a guy try to put our platinum on it. a white base took six coats, we had coverage of the coverage look and one and now what I like to do is take a dull pocket knife and just go over the edges that want to drag along the edge of the tape and get a A little raised spot there before you move on to the candy layers and the paint is set up, you can go with a dull blade, a sharp blade won't work, you'll want to sink into the paint, but a dull blade will just work. and rake those things and it really helps us in the overall work.

It takes a minute, you know, in one section to get all the work done, but it happens quickly. It's probably an hour total to cut all those edges and now. Grab a scratch pad, I use a gray here, but just a scratch pad, and let's make sure none of those tall metals are sticking out, if they are this will knock them down, that's all we want to do is knock them down before us . start with the candy now let's err on the side of excess make sure your air reaches the window areas how many times do we mask a car?

I like to ream ask after priming and I like to read dough at this stage it's not a bad time but you can just put masking tape over the existing tape and trap all that metal tape underneath. It works just as well as removing all the tape and sticking it back on. Now you may have a situation where the tape comes out on the surface of the car and it's worth cutting it off and re-taping it because you know you like it when you start painting it it starts to leather up like it gets so thick.

Now we're going to make a blend here of apple red and Brandywine, we're going to use a couple parts apple red, one part. of Brandywine and why we are doing it right apple red has a yellow tone Brandywine has a blue tone and this will make a beautiful cherry colored komban. I'm going to use a quick drying reducer depending on the temperature of our store we're using the mixture. First we do our mix before we catalyze or do anything you don't want to catalyze too much at once now we have our smooth mix, that's the caramel color we're going to work with, you can name it your own color. if you wanted to because you're making your own mix and that's what custom paint is all about, now the ratio in the caramel is 2 1 1 2 parts paint or caramel color, which is a clear dye to one part catalyst to one part of reducer now, if you have read the instructions on our label, it says three coats at first, it is recommended that you reduce a little more.

In this case, this is our excess reducer above our measured point, so we are adding a gallon. a couple of ounces two or three ounces of extra reducer look how delicious our caramel is ready to drizzle it's amazing how quickly the color comes back coming out of a new container it always seemed to spill a little now we strain it into the gun cup We're using a 1.2. You could also use a 1.3. You need good clean air. We didn't talk about it before, but I like refrigerated dryers because they make sure to remove moisture. Make sure you have good filtration because you need to. to filter out anything that might want to fragment on your airlines and you also need a filter that filters out the oil molecules when you have a reciprocating air compressor, what is the reason we can't breathe it because of the oil molecules that it needs?

This type of system to filter the oil molecules to get the last bit of water out and if you are going to use a hooded cockpit breathing system you need a separate system to make sure it is clean and breathable. air and that's what we have here with these filters, by the way, 60 pounds is recommended on your hood so you can get enough fresh, clean air. Here is another system made by Sharp Manufacturing that has the lowest KOA for filtering the oil that it has. a unit to filter out particles that could get into your air system and it has a dryer, a membrane dryer that removes absolutely all the water from the system and doesn't need to be recycled, it just continues to do so forever.

Therefore, it is a worthwhile unit if you want to save some money compared to refrigerated dryers. Now that we are venting and addressing, this is the moment of truth. Everything we've done so far has taken a lot of work to get to this. period and we could ruin everything if we had not practiced during our preparation during our base application. We practically have this job solved. We know how we are going to paint it. We know how we will get there now. When we're plugging in, we're putting our respiratory system on isocyanates, they're dangerous and we want to protect our skin, we want to protect our lungs so we can continue to do the work we love for a long time.

Now we start with the band step, you notice most of the paint, we never use a ladder when it comes to candy, we are going to use a two step step with a hoop and the reason for that hoop is so that I can block my legs on it and lean and hold Parallel we set up the gun my overlap increment is tight it's about an inch in three quarters I have a pattern 6 inches six inches from the gun watch how I try to get it perfect I'm trying to be that robot I'm concentrating in the paint stroke.

I'm doing that tight pattern overlay. I want this to be a nice, even beautiful paint job. Note that my knees are stuck in that hoop on the ladder, so there's no way I can get them in. This paint job and this gets more serious as we progress through the work. Now I do half the roof and the sales area to the side panel and now I take that chair and immediately move to the other side. I also do the sideline passes. along the rear window light and along the front of the windshield, that's very important now, don't overlap too much in the center as it can cause a ding.

Make sure you make the proper increment even when you lift it on the other side. We're taking the wet paint and bringing it over to this side. There are many ways to paint a car. This has been my method for all the years I've been doing it. There may be other ways that work for you. okay, I'm showing you my way and what worked for me, okay, do that sales area, get off the ladder, move the ladder out of your way so it's not in your way, don't forget to go through the back window . straight line thinking look, this pass doesn't come back at all so now it comes back I'm establishing a straight line using the platform cover as my straight line the edge of the platform cover using that robot attitude straight line thinking online thinking straight appropriate increment of overlap holding the gun parallel taking my time watching the candy continue its path I want it to keep making my bands every time I'm there I fasten all the edges I go up inside I go up inside get everything done don Don't forget the bottom tray , get down and grab those low areas many times look at that piece of tape.

I forgot, get it out of there, the first layer of caramel didn't hurt me, no problem, okay, get down on those bottom areas. I've had more painters take the cars outside after they're done and say what do I do. I didn't put enough paint on the rocking chair continues in a straight line, invisible straight lines, they reach the place where we go down to that sales area and stop the important band. bands now we come up to the hood we haven't done the sides yet we're going to complete the back we're going to complete the hood we're going to complete the front and then we're going to walk around the sides Don't be afraid to help hold that gun if your hands start to getting tired after a couple of paint jobs.

Bring that other hand to help hold that thing. We don't want anything to fall at work. Any deterrence of our robot. attitude make the will to make the openings here around the headlights around the parking lights around the grill openings everything that is needed economy of movement you are going to buy something make the necessary paint get off do it remember that the same problem can happen in the center of the hood by extending too far and making a stripe in the center of the hood so that when you come out, lift it at the right point so that we maintain the continuity that we want.

It takes extra effort to parallel that air cap. make sure you always do it using invisible straight lines robot attitude I'm a robot to this day I say I'm a robot I'm a robot I'm going to paint this like I'm a robot we'd be controlling me if I had a program I'm going to keep my program the walk start now getting out of this truck pass the curve of that fender here we go take your time superimposing tight patterns on the candy this isn't that hard you can do this focus on the Paint Stroke that's what tells you how fast to move If you don't watch how the paint hits you have no idea how fast a move it is better to go.too fast than too slow you can always go back but keep that increment that I want To see that the gun now moves on the grip when you start to go below center because the sheet of metal rotates at a different angle.

Keep the finish parallel between the two wheel openings. When half the pattern goes in the wheelhouse, it has always been my cue to fill in between the wheel openings. don't be afraid to kneel and make sure the bottom panel is covered don't make the mistake some painters make and make that mistake make the wheel openings well covered behind the wheel opening we walk the other way On the other hand , it's a lot of fun to do a quality sweet paint job, but it takes this kind of concentration, concentrating, watching the pain, controlling the hose, keeping parallel, aiming the gun correctly because we have the extra reducer, this has such a finish beautiful. in front, make the wheel opening, make between the wheel openings, we're back on the roof, now we can start slowing it down a little bit more, start wetting it down a little bit, remember the first coat over the base is an adhesive layer and that The first layer gives all the subsequent layers something to adhere to and hold on to having the gun set up correctly is an important element if that's not right, nothing will be the bandpass on the back that will catch the trunk, you don't have to use the same start. point up every time you can modify it an inch if you want so nothing is exactly the same when you do it, that's your decision entirely, we changed our methods, we're going to cross the entire platform from one side to get all the low parts internals going around the deck lid going around the taillights getting in and making those sideline passes make sure it's all covered the top and bottom paint won't go around the corner we're going around the corner making sure we get where we want at the bottom it's not rocket science You can do this, we have to do it, although there is no waiting, you know, once you start working with candy, it is a big commitment, nothing can deter you if you let this base candy sit for too long, it can cure. the point is that it will wrinkle when you re-encode it, so how much waiting time between layers do I never want to see more than 1012 minutes and that's even pushing it?

Use the touch test if you touch it on the wet spot and it sticks. with your finger it still flows, but if you touch it on a wet spot and it is tacky to the touch and doesn't tangle, you're ready for the next coat. I usually do a lot of my testing in the center of the windshield, it seems to be a very wet spot, you've seen this done, you can do it particularly on the darker bases, the lighter bases are the hardest, but our lightest base here is gold pale, platinum would be a good starting base.

I think anyone could make a quality painting. I work on the Black Diamond and it looks like a black paint job until the sun hits it. It's amazing when you see what we're accomplishing here with this candy mix. Go down on those bottom areas, don't forget how many layers I give it. I want to see five to six layers of caramel for longer lasting. The lighter the base, the more important it is to have the maximum amount of caramel for longer wear. Now our candies contain four percent UV absorber, as do all of our clears except one SG 100.

A clear base coat has no UV absorber and that is important for the life of the work. Well, we gave it five coats of caramel and finished it with two coats of clear. We use UC 35, which is our pure acrylic urethane clear. We're going to wet and dry sand our candy now that we have the clear coats, so we're going to dry sand to show you some of the quicker methods using 600 grit paper on a sander and using a whiskey brite. To periodically clean the pad, we can go in and smooth out the edges of our artwork, no matter what you'll always have some edges of the artwork and we'll always have some bits of dirt when you're doing it.

As much painting as we've done on this car, when you imagine we applied one or two coats of sealant, three coats of primer, five coats of candy, two coats are clear, I mean, there's a good chance that lint will get in and it just becomes like small burrs that will not be seen when we sand them. Gently tap that pad to lightly scrape. Keep the pad clean. Remove the seeds. How long does this job dry? We finished it 16 hours ago. It only had to cure 12. before we sand it and recode it now we're going to finish all the bad parts with the dry sander but we're still going to go in and wet sand it with a 500 grit we're using a block where we think it's necessary and this is a very flexible block in other words moves it into the flexible areas but also gets closer which is harder to do with your fingers without sanding them and then check it yourself with a squeegee, be careful with the black squeegees on lighter colors because they are known to leave black streaks, what is good to use? is one of the foam pads used for sanding, they work great for removing water with a putty knife and leave little to no chance of leaving a mark.

What do we use to clean the car while sanding? Because we've used a little bit of ivory. liquid you can use water to clean and that's what we use for a final clean after we've wet sanded the whole car and I watch carefully to make sure the water goes everywhere if there's a place the water won't go , there is. something contaminating that area keep the bucket in the cabin with the ivory liquid in it and some 500 sandpaper and go back to that area and sand and clean and now come back with the pure water. I like the water to be warm the main reason I use warm water is that it evaporates and cleans up quickly if you don't have it available just a nice warm day will do that now watch carefully to make sure the water goes away and I scrub as I go, so when I'm cleaning I always open the door jambs and go in and clean everything that's out there.

We can discuss how door jambs are made. There is a way to do the jambs while painting the car and I have done it many times, but it is one of the best. One way of course is to block the doors with the primer before you go ahead and paint the outside, then you can easily go in and do the touch up with the caramel with a little intensifier and cover them easily. I always do that before me. the color is sanded and then any overspray left on the exterior is sanded off. Now with a blowgun, blow all the water out of all the areas and use a tack cloth.

Pack out any lint that may be left over from our finale. Now let's put. On the fluid layer, this to me is the most fun part of the painting. What is the difference? Well, you can also switch to our UFC 3/5 clear, which is our polyester modified fluid clear and instead of the two ones, we're going to one one and After half a use on the reducer, I'm now noticing some light spots that I didn't apply often enough in these areas, so I mixed some caramel with catalyst with intensifier and put it in a touch-up gun so I could go over it. now and do my touch up to make sure it matches everything else as soon as I'm done with this.

I've already blended my fluid layers there in the gun. I'm ready to start the first coat is a bond that gets wet quickly. just wet a little further away from the gun than I normally use for flux coating because this will create the bond that will allow the other layers to stick without running too quickly apply the fluxes just wet, don't hold the gun too far away because that creates a stucco defect, we don't want that to happen now, after all the work we've done to smooth out this paint job to the point where we're doing the trunk, take out all the edges, walk around the sides as usual there are no changes we do everything the same we are that robot applying the bond quickly how many layers do we put on a final transparent we do a layer of bond and two super wet layers with the two layers that we put after the caramel and calculating that maybe we sand it down to half a layer during color sanding, which gives us four coats of clear for the life of the job and that's money, now we start the flow coats start to taper off, look how close I'm getting, I'm getting wet.

I changed the gun to a 1/4 nozzle needle combo and I'm getting this baby wet. The wait between coats will increase with flow coats because the small amount of additional reducer requires a little more time to leave the film, make sure you are doing the touch test, you don't want it to form when you are pumping the clear on this Way, this means it agrees with the old painter who says the best paint job is a big run, that's what we do. We're doing it here, we're doing the big race, all this work will be like a piece of glass, very fun at this point, you don't have to worry about getting the candy, but everything you've learned at this point. point, see the touch test, touch it sticky, no string, ready for the latest flow code, pump it competent, very fun, look at the shine and guess what it will look like tomorrow.

It will have this same beautiful shine now if we use the UFC 3/5 flows clear, we want to let it sit for 48 hours before we start color sanding and polishing because it has a longer cure time but it also has a slightly higher amount of shine than the that you see 3/5 and more time between coats because of its slowness, but what a beautiful sheer it is and builds up. It has a medium high solids content in the 40% range, of course, we're reducing it a little bit, which also reduces the solid a little bit. wet it look at my reflection and that paint job take those rockers with that bag on the gun you can literally turn it around to get those rockers here we are the next day in the cabin and here we are outside the cabin two days later I showed them that too You can color the sandpaper with dry paper.

Here we are using 1200 grit to see how well it sands. Keep that pad handy because this is a time when it's very important to also look for the tips, but also watch the grease on my hands just by touching them look how important it is during the paint job to keep your hands away we don't care now because this is the polishing stage this is the time where we don't care if you put your hand on it Now it doesn't make any difference, but painters all over the country tell me that they use power tools on the big flat areas, they can save about 4 hours and what used to be 10- cut and polish per hour, they can reduce it to 6 and you should factor this into your price.

You must be paid for the work involved, although it is fun to start seeing the work being done. Here you have a new wet sanding tool. of Dyna Bride that doesn't orbit, it just vibrates, so there's no chance of laying down those tight little swirls. I like to wet sand the final, even if I use dry to get close. I still like to use the 1200 grit and the 1500 grit. and 2000 sandpaper for polishing there we are using 3m cutting compound there honed three systems you can also use system one material from freckly ax there are many Presta many other good ones companies that make polishing compounds but use cutting Wool Pads Wool pads with loops tend to cut or burn a little more than cut wool pile, so look at your pad carefully and see if it has loops or hair.

It is cut. That is important. Look how quickly the shine returns once. you use the 2000 grit papers, murca technology also moves you from 2000 grit to 4000 grit and 3m just tested the AK system which moves to 3000 grit, this really helps to quickly shine this particular clear, it polishes like the butter. although here we are using a rolled foam pad and using the machine polish, this tells you what kind of job you have done, how well your polish is going, because this will give you the look of the final shine. Look at our reflection there. come back quickly, it's a lot of fun at this stage to start seeing the results of the effort and work we put into this job, they don't call it bodywork because it's not work and they don't call it a paint job because it doesn't require a lot of experience or knowledge and it's a job.

You've seen the work we go through, but it's fun when you can do work like this. It's fun. Here we are trying some Miss Chine just to see what. We have to take a look, you may find places you need to check again. We found that in these lower levels there was a fog that we had not entered there, very good, we will have dinner, a girlfriend makes a little 3 inches. polisher and that works great to get into these tight places. I use it all the time on motorcycles to get around car mirrors when you don't want to remove the mirror.

It is very useful here, we are outside the stand we have. We painted the bumpers, put them on the car, installed the headlight doors, put on our grill, this is our finished product, it looks good, look at everythingthat bumper is gone, the paint is math, it's not so horrible anymore, well here we are ten business days later. and look what we've achieved with this beautiful candy apple paint job over three bases applied evenly throughout the car. We share with you the secrets of what it takes to do this job, but the biggest secret of all is to stick with the House of Kolor product line. do not throw mixed products or other products around us, on top of us, under us, it does not work, our system lasts a long time, we have been shown to see work that lasts 10 and 15 years and looks beautiful with a minimal amount of care and the The pride of the workforce was to stick with our system and use our methods will never go away.

Your friends will be totally impressed by the work you're doing, and best of all, clients will find their way to your door. Well, I'm John Kozlowski and I want to thank you very much for watching and remember that you can achieve results like this using the House of Kolor award.