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I got schooled by 7x World Cup winner Tomoa Narasaki

May 28, 2024
Japan has the strongest bouldering team in the


and has been dominating the international competition scene for the last decade, leaving everyone else in the dust. The leader of the group is Tamoa Narasaki, the rock star of the Japanese team known for their wild climbing style with countless World Cups. victories under their belt so exactly what is it that the Japanese are doing differently that makes them so superior in hopes of solving this mystery. I went to the private gym at Tamor Naras Saki's home to see what happens behind closed doors. It's amazing how big it is.
i got schooled by 7x world cup winner tomoa narasaki
This place is first, we're just going to show you the facility as it looks because this is crazy and these guys are probably the strongest couple in the


. Tomorrow they won the last Bouldering World Cup in China, which was about a week ago. or something like that, this is the first wall, this is the bouldering wall, yes, we have three disciplines, this is the fence wall and they have a Le and a speed wall, how difficult would you say in the grade?, it is difficult with the degree, no, it is the same degree with. the semi-final or final simulation is fine 8 to v 11 V12 V12 v14 you also heard it from them it's not just me who the qualifications in the World Cup are actually wrong guys your v14 is not like what they say on the live broadcast and then that's the craziest part here is that they actually have a lead wall and a speed wall, but keep in mind that it's a private facility, you even have an elevator.
i got schooled by 7x world cup winner tomoa narasaki

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i got schooled by 7x world cup winner tomoa narasaki...

It's crazy since most gyms don't have an elevator, but they do have an elevator to set up. and a huge one too look at that platform up there and this is 18 M yeah what's the easiest route on this wall? M uh 88 8 a ​​8 a is the easiest, so if this was a normal gym, no one could do it. anything basically and then the speed yes what is your time uh Tom Mo in speed uh 5.7 5.7 that's good I'm almost the same 12 seconds Tomo is already qualified for the Olympics you were one of the first people to qualify no yes yes yes easy now let's look at this isn't this isn't like there's a lot more peace in the countryside in Japan oh my god that's such a good spray wall look just climbing that wall using all the holes is probably like a 7A or something like that and these bowlers that you have set up tomorrow specifically for today this is like a competition style I guess so yeah, St technique and dynamic coordination, yeah, it's crazy to be in the home gym tomorrow like an access very exclusive.
i got schooled by 7x world cup winner tomoa narasaki
I have to say this. It's like it's the craziest gym I've ever seen in my life. This would be like a big commercial gym and they have it all to themselves. It's crazy. I want this too, so this is where you warm up. This is a bad machine. Look. these guys stretching machine stretching machine okay, so I put my leg here and another one there, relax oh, that feels good, then do this, yeah, that feels good, oh, this, oh, cute, is that good for the knees or this for the hips and everything you feel? very uncomfortable I can see you do this can you do the splits oh A is good at the splits now you're going to see the flexibility oh wow this machine doesn't work for you you have to go back further what else do you have?
i got schooled by 7x world cup winner tomoa narasaki
There are also weights here, do you do a lot of weights? Oh okay, like deadlifts, or yeah, oh wow, this is deadlifts, oh yeah, but you think this is only good for speed or it's good for bouldering, it's also good for B Bing, it's also well, the core. core strength yeah do you have any warm ups? Bowers with the ball or we're going to go straight to the competition spray wall, yeah, the spray wall, okay, warm up on the spray wall, okay, easy, for a second, so this is a wall of heating. How do you feel today?
You feel tired oh, you feel good a little tired a little tired because you came from a World Cup right yeah, how is your skin today tomorrow oh, it's very good, that's crazy? I've never seen a professional climber with that good skin. Normally, whenever we make tapes and stuff, you know it's as good as it's a big advantage in climbing to have good skin and by good skin we don't mean the face, we mean the fingers, there we go, the plane has taken off. It's great to see. he climbs in real life it looks like you don't weigh when you climb you know it looks like you weigh zero kilos how flying is also bouldering how many Bowling World Cups have you won a 21 21 he has won 21 It works crazy climbing is quite unique because the level among women and men it is not, I mean, there is a difference, but not such a big difference.
I think Ikea would beat 99.99% of all men, which is very unique and a very good thing about climbing. Which do you think is easier of these? A red one, a red one is easier H or a green one, a green one, okay, let's see, oh God, how easy, okay, okay, easy for you, do you put a lot of Bowers? Yes, yes, you like it because not. Always good climbers are good Setters, but it looks like you're a good Setter, you know, these look beautiful, jump to this and then with your right foot, jump left and right, woo, I'll put an extra screw in, I'm a little heavier.
Trying to psych myself up, okay, let's see, come on, come on, ooh, oh, I did it and then yeah, jump, oh my god, I can't believe I did that, yeah, thanks, that was a nice, nice Bower, yeah, I thought. that I wouldn't do a single one today, but it's just that he's kind, you know, he said something that we both can do. These look a lot harder oh wow so you tried this with approach shoes and then it was okay but climbing Sho is harder harder harder yeah. that's the thing on the slabs sometimes sometimes we get close to the shoes only Mel better come and then you come out to this or I think no hand no hand okay yeah he's so surprised he's not doing this in competitions, would this be your style or anti-style?
I like this style You like this style because this style is very technical, yes, and when I think of you, I think of the most powerful. Dynamic, oh, nice, yes, nice. Gumball gum, come on, very good, yes, yes, yes, nice, yes, nice, good job, yes, easy. H, this is it. important yes, like pressing P, okay, yes, it's great to be here because I feel that what you do is a little mystical, you are the best team in the world, you know that Japan is the strongest climber, let yourself go and everyone says I wonder what the Japanese are doing, so it's really great to be here.
I feel like this is like being inside a mystery for people you know, because the Japanese team is super strong, okay, so you think that's the secret, yeah, so this is the technique. different yeah uh it makes me a little nervous climbing with Samoa when he's looking at me I get a little like OH Close yeah heh yeah yeah yeah nice okay just try the top oh my god this is trusting that foot yeah it's really hard come on, no it's very difficult the top is very hard yes one red one red one yes so this is one of the easiest ones you said right I think this is a different style or do you start here with the feet, put just one hand and one hand here or one hand. two two hands okay oo strange start he said it's not going to be what you're going to do about it uh, I seem easy for you to shoot very easy it's like every time before going up they put extra screws on me, I think I'm like a heavy Norwegian, but it's okay, that breaks my confidence a little bit, I have to say, but it's okay, do you like rigid shoes or soft shoes, yes, I like soft ones too, but for this maybe it's better with rigid ones, you think about the World Cups and stuff.
Do you have two pairs of shoes when you go out? one rigid one Sho yes okay nice nice nice come nice nice nice and now the foot up there yes yes yes yes come on come on come on could you that's like that a high foot yes, I think the balance is very good the balance is good okay thanks I think I need to stretch more maybe I need to get your machine you know this blue one is off this is not off it's off yeah I have the only good grip. the wall of course is off, so you think this is the hardest one, uh, I think so, start and then push, oh wow, and oh, turn around, I'm excited to see this, oh my god, that It's crazy, come on, come on, come on, man. yeah, cute, yeah, yeah, yeah, oh my god, you're so easy on yourself.
Competition style, yes, yes, very competitive stuff, yes, but sometimes in this it is better without chalk, right, yes, without chalk, but you need chalk later, so yes, you jump with one foot and then this. yes, okay, I think it works, yes, yes, what a palm change changes our direction, yes, yes, it's scary too, oh, very scary, come on, you can do it, oh, it's very scary to trust your feet, yes , is there anything I can do differently? I'm thinking this may be more friction, you know, and then landing and here at the same time, yeah, he's a very good bowler, so when is the next World Cup for you?
Next up is Salt Lake City Salt Lake City, wow, is it difficult with a jet? If you are always traveling, then we have another world class climber, speed climber, yes, Japan's best in speed climbing, people are very humble here in Japan, but there are many good climbers climbing here or just you also climbing here, OK? in I think I just need to be braver, you know, closer to the wall, yeah, and he was also saying that when you were climbing you can probably still compete, like he says, you can definitely compete. I can still compete. I don't believe it.
He says that there are a lot of problems involved with this type of body position, so when you see that they are really solid, he thinks that at least at this moment you could probably do it. He says yes, that's a difference too, although he gave me the beta version, you know? Understand me, I know how to do it because I see it for the first time. Well, come on, yeah, well, go, well, woo, nice, thank you. It was your advice that helped me. You know it was a confidence boost. Yes, and you have YouTube. channel too, you do YouTube well, yes it's in Japanese, but you have English subtitles, yes, English subtitles, you should definitely check out your YouTube channel and also make sure to follow


and y'all on Instagram and see you next. time thank you very much man thank you

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