Hoyt RX1 REDWRX Bow Build with JOHN DUDLEY- Patriot Edition

Everyone today, an amazing enemy with the code name Patriot, it's for a good friend of mine and we have an rx1 height. This is an amazing, awesome carbon boat that is new to the market this year and we are going to do a custom

build

with this to speed things up a bit. I already removed the factory strings and cables that were brown and put in some blood red ones. I haven't fully synchronized the cams yet because that will be part of the process, so pretty much this boat. Right now it would be very equivalent to having a bow that you're taking out of the box, so this is going to be more or less a semi live bow

build

, just to show you the whole process I go through to make it now.

One thing I did ahead of time to help speed things up was to remove the grip at the new heights. What you will need to do is carefully heat the grip slightly with a heat gun. or just with a hair dryer and then from there I have a little looking tool, a little looking tool that you use to move your look and your string, this is a piece of plastic that doesn't cut anything and it's not abrasive, but it's nice. What I did was heat up the grip and then use this plastic wedge so I could get under the heel of this grip and be able to get leverage so I could remove the grip and there's really only a little 3m piece. weather stripping adhesive that's going to be under the handle or on the back of the riser that's holding it on, so by warming up, we're going to help you remove that and then you can remove that adhesive from the handle or the handle.

I'm doing it because Andy has chosen to use a non-original grip, one of the antler rattle grips, so we're going to do that, which will be really cool because obviously the theme of this bow is going to be a red, white and blue, like this that we'll bring in the white accents with the bone handle as well with the white portion and we'll just give you a quick look here at the accessories for this particular bow, right there for this particular bow that I've already laid out here exactly what we're going for. to put on this bow, so what we have is we actually have the factory rubber pieces that go on the limbs, also the little vibration dampers that go on the body and some of the pieces.

That also goes in the standing rope. I already changed some of them to blue just to give it accent again. We're going with a red, white and blue theme. We're going to use a blowtorch that I already have. with the red, white and blue theme, which will be amazing again. He will be using antler grips and a red, white and blue theme, so these will again be the white accents. We will go with blue loot material and also pour. to your raised rest, this is a raised rest 2.0 that we are going to turn into a half cage.

I'm going to use white 3d bcy material to tie his Knox and also tie his sight for the arrow we are In fact, I'm going to use an arrow that I already came up with a great recipe for, which is a Full Metal Jacket. In fact, we're going to end up with a set of FMJ Match-grade that has a tolerance of roughly 1000. Also in weight and a spine of 300, this arrow actually ended up with a length of twenty-eight and five-eighths from the end from the standard x nock to the cutoff point, we are still going to determine the weight of the insert we will try. a couple different weights, whether it's a standard insert or 50 grain brass or even possibly 75 grain brass, the actual final arrow is really going to be determined by how this standard arrow that I've simulated performs and then what I'll do is I'll put in different tips of real field to see how that extra weight in those different increments helps or sometimes decreases the accuracy of the overall setup depending on which full point weight works best.

Then I'll try to find an insert weight and a point weight that will get me in that ballpark, preferably we want to have a hundred grain point for the point itself and then an insert weight that will give us the best overall weight for overall performance. of this arrow that I have a three inch hit on a 6 millimeter hit and then we all regret that it's the 6 millimeter hit and a 3 inch hit in Mack's stealth vein, so this is really what I feel with comfortable, we have about two and a half degree helical set on this, which is something I've already done here using one of the hitting pads, so this is a very simple step by step process for developing your own arrows and We've also determined our angle based on the diagram that I have here at the bottom of this panel and then one of the last things we're going to do is set up a site that Andy decided to use is Eddy's Quick Site, so we're going to pull out that package site and go ahead and level it for the second and third axis adjustment, we'll fine tune the accent, we'll review it on paper and as soon as we get warmer weather here in Iowa, we'll be able to review this down to 100 yards, so I got a good bow.

I went ahead and removed the grip and what I'm going to do is because I'm going to be working on this arc. using the drawing board going back to the bow press probably a few times. In fact, I'm going to mount those side plates last, it won't really affect the length of the draw due to the fact that they are side plates and don't have any type. of deviation with the actual depth of the hand position, so what I'm going to do is try to give your band a little bit of protection from the drawing board and stuff is I'm just going to take some simple hockey tape and only for the initial. setup process I'll grab that hockey tape and you can come in here.

I'll just take this. It doesn't have to be perfect. This is totally temporary, but I'll just take this hockey tape and so-so. put it here on this grip and just make some simple cuts with some scissors right there so you can press that hockey tape down and that gives this bear lift a little bit of protection from the drawing board so my drawing board This is wears quite a bit, so this is a really simple way to give yourself a little protection. Now, one thing I want to talk about is with these grips, when I mount them, I'm going to use these little screws. which came standard with the original white grips before they had the direct attach ones, but one thing I like to do that really helps as a little maintenance is the little washers that are actually cam spacers for some. of the older Hoyt cams, it's just a very, very small washer like this one, but it actually fits perfectly on this bolt and with that smaller washer it doesn't affect the actual depth of the bolt, it doesn't stick out of these custom grips, but what does. what it should do is it gives you a little bit more surface area where when you tighten the screw you don't have to worry about biting or it also helps a little bit in case you overtighten the screw so it's a very good tip for If you make aftermarket grips because what I do with the grips that I asked Rob to make for us is I really like the right side of the grip, which for you would be this side.

I really like that the right side of that grip is slightly thicker than the left and that's at least up high because a lot of the tuning I've done helps position the hand a little better to give you overall alignment a little better for supporting the arrow as it advances. through the riser, but again, if you go with these replacement grips, which we have bone and we're also working on a synthetic material, those little washers work great and again we'll mount them later, after we've done the full build. so you can see right there how it will look.

One of the first things I like to do is make sure you know that I've changed my strings and cables on this particular bow to be this particular color, but what I really want to do is make sure that this bow is set exactly to the length of the student draw, which in this case will be 29 and 5/8, so I went ahead and replaced these strings and cables now at the rx1 point or any of the new heights using this new Hyper ZT camera. You actually have a split bus cable down here and where the split bus cable is you'll find a little piece that actually sort of separates the main yoke power cable from the split cable that goes directly.

You really don't want to mess with twists in this area and the reason you don't is because that's how this cable was built and the way this is twisted and specific so you don't end up twisting and changing the clearance that you have with this little guy. cable here, you know, on the camera itself, so you really want this to be in a perfect position as it comes from the factory so it has perfect clearance, the other thing as well is you know if you're normally going to pull this out of the box, this system will allow you to have your camera going from one camera to the other camera. in a perfectly straight line, which is because you don't want to make any turns here, you're actually going to sync your camera or sync with this top yoke system right here and the cool thing is Holley's newest yoke systems is made with a slightly longer yoke system so you have more ability to add or remove swivels from each side of your yoke to sync your camera or sync now one thing I'd like to talk about as well.

They actually have two different quick cable connectors, so this is actually the little plastic piece that is on the outside of the limb. Actually, I don't know if they are plastic, they may be aluminum. I think they are plastic, but these pieces are actually different. The piece on your right is actually made so that the cable fits a little higher on the shaft than on your left. side, you will notice that that cable is a little deeper in the track and that is specifically that way because on a bow specifically a compound bow you are pulling the cables to the right to have room for the arrow and because Also, the pressure on the yoke system is slightly different because you basically take that V or that Y and tilt it like that, so in the past you needed more turns on the side closest to the cable or roller system, whereas because they automatically figured out that offset and they made those adjustments on the actual connectors, you can make even turns on the right and left side, but when it comes to cam alignment, what I'm looking for are cams that run directly into each other and a lot of people wonder when you pull your bounce back - do you want your top cam to be vertical when fully drawn or do you want it to be perfectly straight when at rest with the rx1 and the red bows I've worked with, having them straight up straight at rest is your best option, so what I'm going to do is I know that I need to take this arc to 29 and 5/8, so I'm going to go ahead and put this on my drawing board and I'm going to pull this back so I have this little piece of material I made as D loop material.

I have some safety knots tied in there. Because I don't have a bump or a loop on this stringing cable yet, I actually go ahead and feed this system just like that. I can have a temporary pulling position on this without having to worry about my hook slipping. in the portion itself, so I'm going to go ahead and put this here. You can come and show him this. Tim, plug this in and what I'm going to do is draw this again on my drawing board and I'm looking for two things here as I pull this out and if you have a drawing board, make sure it's built right, make sure it's built right.

Sure, don't stick your genitals behind any paint, but while I take this down right now, because it's a whole new set. I'm actually looking for two things. I'm looking for the timing of my camera and I'm also looking for the length of my extension, so come here as I pull back, you can see this cable is here. touching this pin right now so you can see where the top touches, that's the first pin up, then go ahead and follow this down, Tim, you can see here that there's actually a gap between this wire and that pin, essentially we want the cable to be completely touching the peg like that, but because we're actually playing at the top first with this string and cable, this is actually a little bit out of sync, so what I'm going to do is let let it touch the first one first, which in this In case it is the top, I can see that there is a small gap at the bottom, so to fix this, what I will do is add twists to the wire that does not have the gap, so in this case, I'm actually going to finish by putting this boat in the boat vise and I'm going to add twist to this cable.

Okay, now the other part of this equation is the fact of what is the pull length with this particular boat because again I want this total pull length to be 29 and 5/8, so when this hits the top, in I'm actually sitting at about 29 and a quarter, when it hits the bottom, I'm sitting at about 29 and 3/4, so I'll have to add a little twist to the top and lower this to 29 and 3/4, which I think What I'm going to do is leave these cables in this position for now, I'm going to make this bow sink.completely, so I'm going to go ahead and add a turning base in that space.

I'll probably add 3-4 turns to that top cam and go back and see where it sits. If they both hit the same, it should be approximately twenty-nine and three. quarters of drawing, so in that case I will have to at the end add some twists to the rope because adding twist to your rope will shorten your drawing and that will shorten the drawing slightly to take me directly to that exact drawing, so I'm going to go ahead, take this, use this temporary draw, this bow in the bow press with the bow presses. What's really important is especially what I like about the Express is that you're actually just flexing the limbs of the bow with the press.

We're not flexing the body at all, so I adjusted it so that my body and the limb supports are right inside the shaft portion of the shaft, where the shaft is essentially what rotates the limb. This here is called an axis. so I don't have space here at all. I have pushed this down, this would be in the up position. I push this all the way down, I've locked it into position. I'm going to do the same thing on this side, just push tight, it's locked into position from there with the xpress. I like it. I have a handle here.

I'm going to go ahead and slide these rollers up, they're set to touch the limb right here under the shaft, so essentially you're wanting them to press this limb between the one here on the limb and this support piece that's here across the limb completely so you can see that I have it placed in the correct position and the next thing, Tim, you come here, take a look. You can see I've adjusted the wheels on this Express to go right to the limb here and here, you don't want it to be too far from where the cam is touching down here or where it's touching a pole or when it comes up it'll end up touching the cam itself, adjusting them so they press on the tip but not the chamber, you don't want them to press on the can itself. so I'm going to go ahead and make that adjustment there.

I'm going to upload this one to the bottom. You can come over here, Tim, and take a look at where the adjustment is so you can see that it has the perfect gap here. and we're free of the cam, free of the post, free of the spacers, so we're all ready to press this arch here, so I pulled this, raised the arm and made sure this clicked into a positive position and it goes through completely both sides and from there I will just do a few turns and have taken the pressure off my rope. I don't need to take too much pressure off it, what I found is if you take it too.

If you take off too much pressure you run the risk of strings or cables coming off the cams to the point where they are all off the tracks completely and for a beginner that can be a little confusing or unsafe too, so I'll come back to use the upper cam. touching first but the length of the draw was closer when the bottom is touched so essentially I want the top to meet the bottom so as the top is touched first I wanted to find the bottom I go To add a twist to the top, unclip this from the Then hold the strings so you don't gain or lose twists at the beginning.

I'll bend it up slightly so I can count my rotations. A suitable rope needs to be constructed so that it rotates clockwise when you look at it from the end to shorten it, so I'm going to go ahead and, with a guess, say that three turns will get me to where I need to be, then I'm going to go ahead and hook this back up underneath, it's a little tight for you to see there, but there's a little post underneath that I'm clipping onto and I'm also making sure my cable tracks the cam perfectly. Now it is a very, very good, important and safe habit to do.

Make sure you put a little bit of tension on the string, take your finger and follow that string around the cam until it hits the post and make sure that string is actually on the track all the way around because it's very easy, especially on a boat, press so that this is slightly off below and even though you're pulling it and you think it might be up here, it might not be in a different place, so get used to always having some pressure. on your rope following your finger around the cam until it touches the post and then touch the post on the side of the cable, making sure it's on the track, making sure the buds are connected and again making sure we're on the track on the opposite side.

It's all going to be very important to make sure that you release the tension on your bow safely, so now I'm going to go ahead and pull the levers using the grips, lowering your arms enough so that I can remove the bow. I get out of the press without hitting the cans, so I'll loosen them by practically pushing them up with my middle finger to get them out. I would recommend most of you at home to wear safety glasses, especially if you have never done this before. Really important. I never look at the bow when I first draw it and take it out of the press in case something happens.

I can tell I've gone too far, the bottom is touching. but the top is not so I've gone one and I can show you that when you pull back you can see the bottom is touching the top now it has room right there so a guest with three turns three a little bit too much. , so I'm going to go ahead and do exactly what I just did, but I'm going to remove one of those turns, so even though it was close, it wasn't the perfect guess and we're going to make a couple quick adjustments, so one thing What you need to know is that when you have a stringer cable, the more turns it has to start with, the faster it will shorten as you add turns.

The other thing is also with ropes and cables, the more portion you have, the smaller it will be. Exposed rope is so when you make a turn when you only have a small amount of rope exposure, your cable will actually shorten at a faster rate and over time those turns will most likely start to even out across the portion. same, but for now we want to make sure that this is perfectly timed, so I added three full turns before I go ahead and remove a turn, so before we want to turn clockwise is obviously add turn now.

I'm going to go counterclockwise to remove the swivel hook, make sure it's on the track. I'm going to put some tension on my rope. I'll follow this around each of the slots and hold that tension as I release the press pressure with the crane. check them out with this off the press. I don't feel like you can check this enough times. I've seen it all, it feels a lot better so now I'm very very close to having perfect timing and I really feel like if I give it one more turn it's actually going to go too backwards so what I'm going to do to compensate that difference is that I'm actually going to make a small adjustment to the yoke system itself.

I can try. I can try to do the cable, but I feel like I'm in that middle ground where one twist may be too much, one twist may not be enough and that's the really nice thing about your yoke system because it allows you to get that. in the middle so essentially my butt is touching my top isn't touching at all and look I've just got a little bit of space up there so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to do a little twist on each side of the yoke to take me right where I need to be, so go ahead and put the vise, put the loop back in the vise, go ahead and secure it right that's where I need to be, so again the bottom touches before the top.

I feel like one. it turns too much, so I'm going to adjust that a little bit just by adding a simple twist on each side of that yoke. What I found is that one turn on each side here is almost equal to half a turn below, so I'm I'm going to follow this to make sure that we're safe, everything is fine once again. I can tell by the feel that it's perfect, we're actually playing perfectly on the top and bottom simultaneously and that right there is perfectly synchronized, so now what I'm going to do is put it on the drawing board and one thing that What I will tell you as you come here is that with your time loop that you have here, it is very important that you recognize your pull point and essentially your pivot point of your arc. it's directly in line with your post, so if you have the draw point too high, the bow will want to kick as you pull back, so I almost like to lower it a little more in line with the bottom of the riser. and you will see that it will work much better, since it's okay, so now what I'm going to do is basically know my times well.

I'm going to double check that accent just to make sure exactly and just because the way it is, essentially now we're pulling up the wall, we're sitting and come here, Tim, we're sitting right next to you, you might have to, yeah, you can probably see it from there, we're sitting right at twenty-nine. and five aces up the string so Charlie is absolutely perfect right now the way he's sitting so one thing I want to talk to you about this cam system is this cam system has a modular system really unique, we will leave it exactly. where it is now because it's in the correct position, but one thing I want to talk to you about is that if you come here, this camera system actually has two cable tracks, one on each side of the camera, so you can adjust your modules.

You're going to have to loosen these modules and they're actually going to spin together, they're going to move together as they move through the slots and the only thing I'm trying to say is that this module that's on the right side of the bow actually has a little little pin on it. Him, can you see that pin over there? Tim, okay, so that pin really drops. I'm going to go ahead and remove this, maybe it's to a place where you'll be able to see, okay, so that pin falls into a series of The slots here help it go to the exact position.

All of those positions are numbered on the ends and have letters on the inside, so you have ABCD at all times and that position of that module must match where you placed your actual draw. stop the pin so we're on the people so I need to make sure now that I moved it that my camera is also in the e position so I'm going to go ahead and move this module it's easier okay we're on a place it right there and I'm going to go ahead and tighten it down, so if you have to make any adjustments to your cam module, always make sure that the position of your top module in this case matches up with where that little silver pin is on the other. cam which is on the e and then also make sure that your actual draw stops are in the same position, so we have E and E, so this arc is now tightly synchronized and slightly adjusted to perfectly match the draw that we all need Okay, so let's set up this arch with the elevator to rest on.

This is the immediate elevator to. We are going to change the full containment cage for the half cage. I'm a big fan of the half cage because I just don't feel like you need full containment, especially with the built-in arrow rest that works, so we're going to go ahead and set up this half cage, which is really easy to do, but the The reason I wanted to show this was because. I want to talk about one important thing regarding the cage itself and that is making sure the cage is set to the correct height because sometimes people change their cage or depending on the type of bow they shoot, they just shoot that cage. in the position that it comes out of the package, but with the cage itself, there are actually two small screws that are right here and you'll see that it's actually a long slot and the reason the slot is so long is because you gives the option to move this cage up and down at different heights and that's important because some bows need that height to be a little bit higher, some bows need that height to be a little bit shorter so I'll show you exactly what what do you need.

What to look for regarding that and really the best way to set it up, so I'm going to go ahead and take this cage and mount it in the position that I feel like it needs to be set up and I want to show you here quickly everything that I have to do to make sure that be right now in the bow ahoy. This break works really well because the initial setup of the whale tail or launch arm is set to a point where when it goes down to 90 degrees it actually hits right on the inside. off the white riser, which is really good, but what you want to make sure of is make sure that the height of this cage is set so that when this air stop goes down to 91 you don't have a gap like Right here is a gap, so what will happen is that as this rest is forced down when the bow fires, it will actually hit the body first and then bend the blade and extend it until it hits the arrow cage now, if the cage is on the right. position when hitthe elevator, will also touch the cage and rest the throwing arm right in the middle of the arm.

Now if you have it set high when it comes down, it's obviously going to hit that launcher sooner and you're not going to have as good aero clearance, so I like to go ahead and move the launcher arm down to 90 degrees and then adjust the cage up slightly. so that it fully supports the center of that throwing arm and then adjust it correctly in that position and I'll do it. Check that also once you're on the lift, the other thing is with the raised support, there are actually two main clamps that you'll focus on, they both have different widths for different limbs, the wider one is very good for a lot of things.

Of the wider limbs is on the pse. a single limb and it would hold on for you. use that, but for the Hoyts we're going to be able to use this single limb system. Here now I'll show you quickly, coming here we're going to mount this limb clamp on the side of the riser than the rest. it's going to be on I found out that I really like it in the position at least on the rx one right here above the R so I'm going to take out this screw I'm going to put this bracket here and put this screw through now there's a A couple of things from the that I want to talk about with these clamps, one thing is you go ahead and pan now with these clamps, there are some little ridges on the inside of these clamps very close and I'll show you, so these clamps are designed so that there are a little channel that's cut here on the bottom of this piece specifically so that the brace fits snugly around your limbs so it doesn't slide back and forth and you'll notice that gel pad that's placed right inside that, so I really want to be careful with these new white limbs, since there is almost no room.

Now you can easily use the wider limb if you want and have room left over or you can use the one that was designed specifically for the forelimbs. Model of limbs that then had much more space or a little more freedom of action than now. The fit is almost exact, so you'll want to make sure you don't drift to one side or the other with this clamp. just because you don't want to end up ruining the limb with the clamp, so I'm double checking to make sure it's completely done and the next thing is to make sure you tighten evenly from one side to the other. on one side, on one side, on the other side, otherwise if you squeeze one side all the way in, you'll start to bend that plate and then as you turn that side down, that's not the way to do it, just do it evenly on both sides and adjust it down, slowly.

I see the gel starting to squish evenly on both sides as you adjust it down and as the gel squishes, it essentially protects the limb while securing it in one place, so I go ahead and curl up even on both sides I'll grab that clamp. I can't move it back and forth, it's stuck in position. If I turn it over, here you can see that the gel comes out of both sides of the clamp evenly. It is a perfect example of a perfect clamp. positioned now one thing I will tell you depending on the bow model, this is a Rx, but on some bow models that have a straighter limb as you shoot the bow, that limb travels forward and how far it travels forward will depend how strong it is. pull on that cable that's getting closer to your rest, I call it overtravel, so as it moves forward it pulls on that cable that's resting tighter and tighter under the riser, so if you have an old style target boat which has a straighter style limb than not.

If you have a lot of excess travel as you shoot, you'll find that changing the position of your support on that limb will actually determine how aggressively your support crashes into the riser, the further you go to the end. , the more aggressive it will be. The higher up you go, the less aggressive it will be, but you do want to make sure it fully deploys in the up position as you pull it back if you choose to move that support higher, so I have First I mounted this piece down here on the branch that I'm now on. the cage is located, we have the whale tail.

I'm going to go ahead and put this on the riser and make sure this secondary safety button is facing out so it's not screwed down. This way, I want to take this back and adjust it at the end. I don't want it to be tight first. I'm going to mount this arrow rest on the riser and find that on the Hoyts I can pretty much carry them almost. to the rear position and have your launcher in a game store, if you lower it, it will more or less touch just the back edge of the elevator on the whale tail, so I'm going to go ahead and set it completely correctly.

Make sure the air support is square to the riser. You can use this bottom edge here as a reference, but I'm making sure it's 90 square as I tighten it down, tighten it all the way down, and then I'm going to tighten this secondary security screw. so that break is completely secured and the next thing I'm going to do is go ahead and slightly adjust my left and right of my thrower just to fine tune that position. I know that at these heights my left and the correct adjustment with this support is almost a guarantee if when I lower it I touch both the right side and the left side almost evenly now you have micro adjustment on your raised support, which you can do by loosening the top screw and then turning this micro adjustability right and left, but I really like to do my initial movement left and right by adjusting the bracket that's on the main post of this bracket, so I'm going to move this because it was a little bit out of place.

A second ago, I'm going to move this a little bit. I'm going to go ahead and make sure it's adjusted down. There is actually a flat spot on this rod. This rod actually has a radius around it and then there's a flat spot. on the rod itself and the flat point is made so that when you tighten these two screws to ensure that in your left and right position you have a flat point to go ahead and bite into it, which is what I'm doing now, make sure that you use the allen head or the allen key that comes with the rest for this because it is nice and square and you are not going to use a rounded allen key on a new screw, you want to make sure you have that new allen key perfectly square, it will definitely save the quality of your screws long term fixation, so when I go down, touch the riser and you will notice that my cage has been adjusted correctly so that as this air arrester comes down and touches the riser, it is also fully supported in the center of the thrower's arm, so we don't have to worry about any uneven pressure, not even on the front or center of the launcher.

They're both in contact at the same time as they come down, which is exactly what you're looking for, so we go ahead and set the stroke to lift 2.0, rest, your whale tail angle should be set correctly, which I really like. In order for your launcher to be at a 45 degree angle, it must be set correctly right out of the package. I'm looking at it. It is in a perfect position. I'm going to go ahead and take the arrow that I know we're going to do. I'll be shooting, I'm just going to trim this arrow on the string to check it fits, which is good.

I'll talk about that a little more in a minute and now what I'm going to do is check my position here. for no height because before I do anything with my bumps and peeps I want to make sure that my nock height is set and my rest height is set in a position where I will have adequate space on the riser right here when I use a wide I know Andy likes to shoot fixed blade broadheads as well as mechanical broadheads, so I need to make sure this bracket isn't so low that I'm worried about not having room here on the rack with a fixed blade. head, so just looking at it I have my arrow at 90 degrees and I'm in a pretty safe position on the Hoyts, especially on this rx, if you see here on the platform, you have a couple of little reference lines.

As long as the bottom of the arrow is at least level with this part of the shelf's rubber pad, you'll have perfect clearance. I like to place mine right level with the bottom edge of this second line here, which you actually push. on your pad, you'll find that the second line is actually in the center of the Berger grommet, so I'm going to move this arrow up a little bit so I can have the bottom of my arrow shaft level with part that I just showed you, so I'm going to move it up a little bit, adjust it down, left and right, it fits here on the side.

I loosened this screw here. I used this little knob on top. You can see an arrow that says clockwise. it moves up so I loosened it turned it clockwise the arrow rest was micro adjusted up now I'm going to go ahead and tighten it down and check this position one more time so now when be at 90 degrees, that little adjustment that I made so you can see that the bottom edge of my arrow shaft runs parallel to the bottom edge of the rubber shelf piece, okay, so that's perfect when I'm in this position. I also like to go ahead and look at my left and right and The left and right for this bow right now are set up perfectly just to show you that what I'm looking for is that I'm actually holding the bow so that the cams run straight down. down the shaft of the arrow so they can see the path of the string. running down the arrow shaft and as I follow it up I'm looking for where the arrow shaft comes out of the bow.

This is a very good initial setup. It's harder to do by holding the phone and doing it at the same time, but when I'm in the center here and I'm watching it. I'm actually running up from the center of those rudder bolts all the way to the top. If you would like a measurement, I can give you a quick measurement. It usually works normally. I'll just put this here, sorry Tim, I may have to pivot, so this is essentially where my measurement is. I'll make that level two inches so it's a little bit backwards, but I usually run at about thirteen-sixteenths, that's where you run, but at one point you should be able to run down the pipe and this is a very, very good starting setup. which you can see for the actual fit of the string on the nock where it was trimmed.

I can actually turn this string inside the throat of the Nock which is really what I want and when I move it down it hits the cage of the rest and it just starts touching the inside of the riser so this is really a perfect position here, so now with this support mounted, the clamp is mounted. I'm going to go ahead and put this back in the boat, press, set everything to 90 degrees and I can make my initial adjustments to tying my nocking points. What we're going to do now is tie my hit points, but one thing I've learned is that if you first put your sight on the string and get it to the approximate position you need, especially if you know that measurement, it can actually help you because when I tie my hit points I like to finish my bindings so that the burnt part of my hits is towards the back instead of forward just because on some very short axial arcs or very long draws they do burn and those knots are on the inside when it goes down and The pinches that you might get depending on whether you know how to tie your punches or not could have an extra impact so I actually like to have them pointed back if possible and the other thing is also having that in the right position before sitting in your loop is also important.

So in this case, this bow has essentially the same specs as a bow I already built for it, so I know that its P-type from the top of the nock to the center of the pip is actually six inches. I know for my notes that here are my notes. I have six inches with an arrow facing me, which means I'm measuring directly up the string for that measurement, not an actual position to look at the shaft of the arrow in many archers, one of the most important measurements you'll get. You can tell about yourself is the distance from your eye to the center of the shaft of the arrow because, regardless of the angle of your bowstring, the position of that gaze directly toward the shaft of the arrow will basically always be the same as long as Al shoot with the same technique at the same anchor point, that measurement will be really important because if you have a bow with a 44 inch shaft, the axis and the string angle is very large, for example, on a 44 inch axial bow inches or even a 40-inch axial arc, while if you have a shorter axial arc, the angleof the string could be a lot sharper, more like this, okay, but for an archer, when you're in full swing, your eye will essentially always be in the same position as well as your anchor point, which will be again here on your face, so the position of your hero as he runs and essentially where your eye looks across that rope, this distance will essentially always be the same once you've mastered your technique.

So knowing the clearance on a bow that you're super comfortable with, if you have a boat right now that you love, you love the fit, you love the way it feels, then you get to full camber and have someone measure from your sight directly to the center of the shaft of the arrow it is very important to have that measurement because this measurement, which on me is 3 and 7/8, this measurement will always be the same regardless of the axial length, although it will be if I take a longer axial arc. like a fourth bow and pull it back where the angle of the string is much greater, this position here as long as I measure this when I'm adjusting the height of my peep, then I'll know that this is going to be the same now when it comes to the measurement I'm referring to here 6 inches up, that tells me 6 inches up the chord in this direction here, so what you'll find is when you have a shorter axial arc with a more acute chord angle, that would be this In this case, the distance from here to your peep will be greater than on a bow where the angle is actually less acute, so, for example, on a hunting bow, the height of my peep could be six inches from the top of my stroke to my peep, whereas on my target bow if I measure from the string stroke to the peep, which is this measurement that I'm talking about here, this measurement would actually be six inches short because that shorter axis bow will have a longer reach to reach that, so if you go to an archery store and say my sight height is six inches, you are switching to a bow that has a different Axis than four or five inches, the shaft link, when you get home you're going to be uncomfortable, so if you're changing from an axial length bow to an axial length bow, oh, that's got a pretty big variation between the two knowing the vertical.

Measuring will definitely make the bow feel good as soon as possible now for this situation here. I know that because the axial lengths of this bow compared to your previous bow are the same, I'm going to go ahead and use a measurement directly above the string, which I'll then also give you a vertical measurement that's not the same, like so that a little advice that I will give you is here. I actually have a brass bump that I tightened enough so I could slide it on. enough up and down force on my string right now, I'm using it just as a reference point to slide my arrow, so that when I take measurements or when I tie that first hit point, I'm not actually sliding the arrow back. up and down, so I'm going to go ahead and make my measurement here at six inches.

I'm going to mark that string and I'm going to go ahead and put this sight on that string at that six inch mark that way if I have to make a turn. or two to get the view to look directly behind. I can do it now initially so that when I tie my hit points I don't run the risk of my knots facing a different direction or some people tightening their loops and when they adjust on that loop and end up having the loop facing the wrong direction as well after they look, so we're going to double check to make sure I've locked everything in, loosening this enough into a two-color. string that that's what this separates both strands of both colors evenly, so essentially you have the black on one side and the red on the other and look, this is actually a 3/16 view by putting that on the rope.

I'm going to double check this measurement at the top of the nock, in the center of the peep. I'm a little off base. I really like to adjust my sights for my peeps when I have no pressure on the string if possible, some people just slide that P pop and down. your string even when there is full tension and depending on the quality of your peep you definitely run the risk of cutting the string so I went ahead and released the tension and you will see here that with the peep on this Place the peep actually facing 90 degrees to the left, so at the top you'll see that the peep is actually facing left, so what I'm going to do is add a turn to the string, what I found is that each turn essentially moves that. looks about 90 degrees, so in this case I'm going to go ahead and make one full revolution on the string and I should move that look right to the position that I needed to pee in and I'm actually going to renew this arrow one full turn just so keep the tension in the rope double check always double check your clues people can't stress well enough I'll release the tension now you can go ahead and see that the crosshairs are now looking directly at you, which is basically what you want , so this now puts me in the perfect initial setup to tie my loops and my hit points.

I'm going to go ahead and remove this tie from the press as we speak just to confirm that I have done so. I accidentally hit that brass hitting point as a reference for my knife, now mine, honey, so I'm looking for a 90 degree hit height so you can use an arrow squaring tool. I've done this enough times where I don't feel like it's really necessary, but it's 90 degrees right there. I've got that bump, a little brass bump in place so you can. I can slide this thing out of the way if I need to, but it's just a good little reference.

This way if I need to slide my arrow out of position I can do that or even transition into and out of my press, just having that secondary hit right there is really nice, so now I'm going to move forward, tying up my Knock sets for this I'm actually going to use a 3d material this is a bcy bcy 3d material there are a magnitude of colors any color you want I'm using white just because it's a

patriot

so I'm going to start with about two feet of this material burn a little bit here and You're going to have to come here, Tim, to see this, so essentially what I'm going to do is and what you really need to recognize is that 3d is a twisted material, it's twisted so that you tie it up, you're basically twisting this and it's going to want to untwist itself. its natural state, so to start, I'm going to go under the rope and I'm going to have equal parts and I'm actually going to turn this around. under itself twice like this and I'm going to squeeze this down and as I tighten it, I'm going to release both ends and I lightly touch the string and slide my fingers along the string so that it works properly.

From there, I'll pull out any additional spins I may have put on that system. In fact, I'm going to tighten this knot a little bit more all the way to the nock and I'm going to go ahead and tighten this up once I'm done. that initial I can actually slide both out of the way now the reason I like to do two and tie is because it actually pulls this thread halfway up both sides of the rope if you did just one tie it would only be a third of the way up, so now we're going to go ahead and do the same thing underneath, so we'll pass it once twice as we pull. let these ends loose and get those extra twists out so we can adjust it properly to essentially create a perfect radius around it for the tied hit points, adjust it now, we'll go back to the top and wrap it around twice. coming down with that double knot getting your extra twists out we're going to do this on both sides.

I'm going to do this essentially three times at the top and three times at the bottom, so this is our last time at the bottom now for the last time I'll tie a knot, so I'm going to tie this once. In fact, I'm going to clamp this between the second and third column, so I'm going to pull this as far as it will fit. between the second and the third column and as I did that, you can see that it completely eliminated any extra space that was between those two, so tight that down and now I'm going to make one more loop in the same place so that essentially creates a knot square on this hit point tied to finish nice, from there move it out of the way a little bit and I'm going to burn these flames, so keep your flame above the rope when I use my flame and let the radiant heat melt it to that point and tap it right when it's there so you can see this little extra knot that I have here.

In fact, I want it to be back if possible, so now we're going to repeat the same process under the knot and for this one it's a little more complicated just for the fact that we have to consider the pinch stroke, so the pinch hit is essentially what you are: hit points and how they press the arrow hit when it comes to full draw, so because when it comes to full draw, it creates a triangle, those two hit points will start to tighten and you don't want them to get so tight to the point where they squeeze the stroke of your arrow and cause it to lift or press down. arrow rack, so the little spaces are pretty essential and any type of construction now I'm going to remove my temporary brass strike, I just moved it aside and I'm going to start the same thing underneath. take my arrow, nock it and move it completely against the upper blow.

You can see here. This is a very nice shot that fits the arrow that the nock fits into, but has the ability to rotate on the string, so it's really nice. push it against the nock and now I'm going to take my material. I'm going to start the same process, wrap it twice and start my stroke, but we want to make sure that we're not completely tight against that stroke or we'll be I'm going to end up having the pinch that I'm talking about, so I'm going with this particular bow and because its extension length is only 29 and a half, I will leave a gap of about half a millimeter and go through it twice. my time up I adjusted it it's good to get back to the top feed it twice let your spin come out run that versus buckle it Jayde's sunglasses are wanting to get a good look at this particular arc and since I know the hit point, I actually want the top and bottom are the same size, so I'm going to go ahead and finish this after the three in the first three at the bottom.

I'm going to finish this the same way, tying the last one directly between the second and third column. so you can see, I have adjusted it between the second third column. Now to finish, I'm just going to tie a square knot by making one more knot and I have to tie the hit points to see that they are both tied. perfectly symmetrical too and now I'm going to finish this off by burning it, okay, one thing I want to cover real quick is one thing I want to talk about real quick is with your tidal hit points, it's important that you learn how to do that. the same way I talked about because you want to make sure the hit points are square to the arrow itself, so if you tie them in a way where as you time them they're at an angle like this , it ends up being a low point and a high point, so when the shot of your arrow settles, if you have a low point on one side, the highest point on the other, what you will find is if you have to turn the string to compensate. for a slight twist or while shooting, you may have to add a twist to get that P protection back.

Suddenly, you can move this low point from here to here and push that arrow down slightly, essentially changing the elevation of your arrow. So the way I tie with the double loop double time, I essentially want symmetrical loops throughout the system so that it has perfectly flat hit points on the arrow to hit itself, which I can see here as I rotate it, it's okay, now What I'm going to do is tie this peephole because the peephole is in a good position. I'm going to tie it using the same material. I'm going to get about two feet of this 3d. material and for this I'm going to do a little bit different than what I did on the bottom instead of doing one to tie, essentially we're going to start under the rope, go over the top tying once, adjust it and then we're going to go under the rope, go through once to tie and basically we're going to stack each of these little loops on top of themselves until we have a complete loop.

Now, one thing I want to talk about is if you look here at your rope. If you separate your rope into a V, you want to make sure you tie your peep at the bottom of that V instead of starting where it starts to split the most and that will keep it from coming loose, so start here where it meets and is the same size, tie what you need on both sides and then we'll force that knot tight against the peep later, so I'm going to take this. I'm going to tie a single piece with the materials a little longer.

I'm going to make a single draw and then I'm going to go under. This is what I call a not-so-essentially overlay. We're just stacking these above and then below. That would be the fourth fifth. The other thing is also especially. If you're wearing white like I'm doing now, having clean hands will do the trick.will remain white. If your hands aren't clean or if you're playing a black string or a black wire, it's going to stop you from doing it, so let's see. It would be eight, it would be nine, ten, 12, thirteen, and one thing also is that as I'm doing this, I'm actually doing it continuously, you may not see it, but I'm actually continually removing those extra turns as I'm tying.

I've done it enough to where I'm actually doing it while laying down the rope so make sure that happens and I like to get to about 18 loops and then on the 19th we'll come back in between the bottom two and lock this in. The last one just go in there like this and then finish off with a square knot at the top. You can see it's a perfectly symmetrical bow all the way. We will burn it and now we will repeat that process. Here at the top, just finishing off the white ties for the peep, this is also ready to look amazing.

I'm going to burn the last knots tied for the peep and you can see here if you come closer. I have both knots super symmetrical and the radius around both of them is perfect, they actually stop right where the rope comes to form a V, so now what I'm going to do is take just a piece of swag material. deep, this is the d-link material that I'm going to use on the D loop and in addition to the rest, you can wrap it around your rope like this and slide that knot closer to the sight, it really tightens it up. and those are two perfect knots.

I'm going to double check this P tube to six inches from the top of the nock to the center of the peeps, perfect, so now what I'm going to do is tie my D. loop because my view on the positions is great. In fact, I have this long removal material because I'm going to use a portion of this on the air arrester as a cable, so I'm going to give myself enough to keep going. and secure it and leave me, you know, about 10 inches to tie, so tie the D loop essentially what you're going to do is You're going to take this longer piece here and create a J like this.

Miss J for right handed shooter will be on our side of the rope for the top and we do the J. We're going to push the loop over to the other side under that rope, we're going to loop both ends like this and we're going to go ahead and adjust this down and make sure that can remove the arrow, we'll just make sure to tighten it completely. this D loop against the knot as we tighten it and I like to pull both sides evenly as I do this and I actually like to tighten this D loop not as I pull each of these evenly because essentially what I want and it's harder see it on the side of your cameras right now, but I really want this to be very small down here.

I don't want there to be a space, okay, so here you'll see that there really is no space. right there if there's a gap like this that can cause the D loop to come loose, so you don't want to have that gap, so tightening it as you pull is going to be essential, okay, once you've pulled both of them. sides, I'm going to go ahead and trim this little piece and cut it off, then I'm going to wrap the string a little bit so I can keep it in the position that it would sit once it's on the bow and I'm just going to twist my finger and peel that little piece that I just trimmed it and that way as I burn it it will burn a perfect knot.

Make sure you use the radiant heat and don't melt the loop or your tab so you can see I've got a perfect little knot there and go ahead and tighten that last piece just like that and this is going to be really tight so now with this piece I'm actually going to take my long tongue and I'm going to go to the opposite side of the rope, so the first time I was on this side, now I'm going to the opposite side, there, I'm going to take my long piece down through the center, like this, I I will stay top of the rope and it will come back to me.

I'm going to go under the rope and pull that tab over like that, essentially, that's going to be my finished loop, but again I'm going to pull on each end and tighten this so I can make sure that I don't have any gaps under here, this D loop should finish at about 7/8 of an inch so I know I have to be a little shy because as I stretch it I can stretch it out. with these needle nose pliers it will end up but at a 7/8 length so I'm going to do this one more time a little bit tighter since I'm not as worried about you following me and I'm really holding my attention to the loop and I'm also holding a lot of tension here at the knot, so I'm trying to loosen this loop as much as possible before tightening it and before pulling.

Also, I really try it really helps ensure that this overall loop is a better system. The other thing you'll find with this exact setup is that this D loop again. I'm grabbing the rope by spinning the rope so it points. because again my flame comes on and I don't want to twist the loop and loosen the rope loop, so I'm grabbing the rope, rolling the rope, buzzing up my tongue and now letting the radiant heat burn it, playing it simply. at the end there and perfect, so now I can make a slight adjustment to my loop and you'll notice that because I started on this side of the rope, I went to this side of the rope, this has a slight twist.

You'll see it right there, it has a slight twist which is the exact position of a manual release blade when you twist your hand to fit your face. You'll have the same angle there, so now I've got everything ready. in position I'm going to put my ruffles under this section that's up like this and I should talk to you directly about the position I need. I'm going to give it one more full pull. You can see now that you have a length. right where I need it to be, so this arc is getting really close now, actually, the last thing I'm going to focus on is you can see it's coming together really nicely.

In fact, I'm going to remove this steel cable that goes to the rest that you have. The option comes with a steel cable if you're not going to make a lot of adjustments, the steel cable is great if you're potentially going to make adjustments for a different arrow later where you're going to lift the rest again. in one motion, lower it again, tighten it again and then in that situation, or if you are going to change the weight of your bow or have to loosen the cable more, in that situation you may want to use only a high quality cable. polyester loop material for this connection, this also works great and allows you to do it if you start to stretch and your hearing arrest starts to lift a little off the elevator, which sometimes limb-driven systems can do or if you are traveling with someone you put something on that cable, you stretch it for a long period of time in a bow type case, you take it out, you recognize it, okay, I need to take out some of that slack, this type of material gives you a lot more options for loosening and tightening continuously, while the cable is amazing for once, make it rock solid.

I'm going to use this as well for the reason that I'm using these colors obviously working on a custom set so I like the blue as an accent so I'm going to Go ahead and remove this piece of steel from here should be pretty easy. I'm just going to put my Allen wrench on this final piece here. I'm going to loosen it and as I loosen the set screw, this wire will come out and what I'm doing. What I'm going to do is take this loot material. I'm going to go ahead and loosen both screws, well, loosen the screw down here as well and there's two things I like to do, one on the end that goes to my lymph gland here I actually like to have a secure knot on the end of that. way it will never come out even if that screw loosens, so in that case I go ahead and grab this removal material.

I'm going to tie a knot just like this, I'm going to pull that point until your knuckles break like you just did and I'm going to blur that end like this, go ahead and burn it, perfect, look, I've got a cool little knot, I'll never do this. will do. get ahead, so what I'm going to do is take this and turn it on so it melts and as I'm pinching it, I'm going to pull it at the same time because that polyester material while you're doing this That polyester material is actually going to create a long tail. .

You can see that it's created a nice little tail right there and that tail feeds perfectly through both of them. This lower limb clamp. Look how easy it goes now that I've pulled that little tail. I can actually pass this through there, pull it up and you can see the knot won't go through that clamp and now I have the perfect tail to go through my rest here as well, so I'm I'm going to adjust this a little bit for now, keep going. go ahead and fully tighten the bottom screw on the cable, then I'm going to do some last minute eyeballs on the position of my arrow here just to make sure that nothing perfect has a half millimeter gap right here, which is really nice, I wanted that I did it to verify the sudden pinch.

I'm going to draw this bow back and check to see if the arrow lifts off the arrow rest, if it lifts off the arrow rest, then my shots are too close together, so go ahead and draw this back, you can see as I aim up, I aim down, The arrow is still perfectly rested, even without the pressure of the tip holding it down. My Knock pinch is perfect, so I'm looking at 90 degrees there. The center shot is essentially right where I want it to be, this should be a single shot and go ahead and mount this gimbal and because our length of throw and our camera position were all boxes, I'm going to leave that right where it is.

In fact, I'm going to take my game Allen. I'm going to loosen up this stealth draw here and what I like to do is just hold the bow upside down and then adjust it slightly so that it's centered on the string, but letting the weight of the actual stealth draw fall on the string and in that position just right. there you have the right pressure, so I'm going to adjust it and that can vary from the get-go compared to if you loosen the limb bolt so that the rope forms. If you move some as you loosen the bolts, they will come out so you have more factory clearance or if you change the tread slightly or change the strings and cables like I did, don't assume that's always correct. period, but that's a very, very easy way to adjust any type of system like this, that your bow may or may not have a last name and come here, Tim, I'm going to go ahead and remove this temporary body tape that I had there.

I'm going to start again. I have my touch. These are the antler handles that I think are kind of cool. I have the small screw with one of the small ones. I'm using just a cam spacer but the thin washer. It would be cool to mount that right on the side, look it looks pretty awesome, the whole Patriot theme is now coming together, it's actually these grips, this is one of the last grips I made from a bull I shot in the 911 , what kind of additions for you, sorry, I'm going to move this to this side since the bull was shot in 911, as additions to my topic, there it is, so I can tell you that this right here will be: we have the red , the white and blue throughout, the last thing we have to do is, at least for the installation part, take the site of the arch and level it for the second and third axis, probably to save a little time for this build .

I'm not actually going to do that leveling part. There are many videos available. If you look, you can check out John Dudley's site leveling YouTube channel and you can see how to level a site. I'm going to go ahead and do it here in a minute. put it on the bow and prepare this to shoot the first arrow through the paper for an initial start so now all I'm doing is pushing this rest down to the riser and I really like to use the allen key. that comes with this and I can use the Allen wrench as a lever to push the rest down and as I push that rest down, I'll take all the slack out of that table or the table depending on what type of material you use.

In this case I'm using material outside the loop and I'll adjust it like this. I like to leave my extra and I'll actually tie the extra here for the reason that I like to keep a little bit of extra because if you choose to loosen this to raise the air support to make any type of adjustment if you so choose with the arrow different or something, you don't actually have this piece here so short that it falls through the lever arm, so I like to have one a little bit longer and I'll actually just do half the hooking time like that and that's it right there. to work, so I'm going to go ahead and set up the paper tester and see if I did this right and take a look at how the first arrow comes out of this new Hoyt carbon rx1, the Patriot.

Alright, all I did was change the nock. I want red, white and blue, so if you have blue night hits, I went ahead and changed that hit. The shot setting is still perfect, so let's go ahead and put our first shot through the paper here. A really very good start. You can see here when I close this a little bit. You only have a slight tear on the lower right, slight, slight, very, very slight. Because this is going down with the tear, I'm actually just going to move my headphones down a little bit and then I'm also going to move my headphones a little bit to the left, we're going to get this perfect, made those little ones. small adjustments essentially loosen this, turned the micro adjustment knob, lowered the rest just a fewthousandths, loosen the top, use the little key here, you can see there's a little R with counterclockwise and counterclockwise movements, the rest of the right, obviously I wanted to go a little bit to the left because we had it there, like this that I made two small adjustments and we go ahead and see what this second wind of this is.

It's perfect we went from a slight rip right to exactly what we need and we have the perfect build right here two arrows perfect tuning this is a very very good starting point this will allow me to move out of work on many lower range shots to make any kind of minor minor adjustments with a french tuning method as well. I'm going to start playing with spot weights on this initial arrow build to determine what insertion weight I'm going to want to make on the final build, so really all I have to do is What to do now is level that sight, quickly mount the sight, attach the mount. for the quiver and this baby is ready to go