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How to tune up your electric planer for best results!

Jun 08, 2021
well some Sport Dory is complete at this point it is varnished it is painted the interior is oiled it is one hundred percent complete I put a seat in it there are different options on the seats really where you might want to put them so I didn't put any other seats in in this point. I have honed the seat and left the plane, you can feel the annual rings and it is very rough and I did it on purpose. Honestly, that's how it went without sanding it so we have a little bit of a non-slip surface so you don't slip when you're rolling and you know that, so there are a few other things that could be done, maybe something to put

your

feet against but I'm not going to do that right away.
how to tune up your electric planer for best results
I'm actually in favor of tying a little rope to the seat riser that you just put around the bottom of

your

feet and that works fine. You know, it works fine, so I don't do it. I don't want to have anything in the bottom of the boat like I said about packing it up and stuff like that, but you know we're just as eager to see this boat in the water as you are, we know you're looking forward to it. and you know you got it, it comes out in the comments, but like I said, we're just as anxious as you are, but we've done it and I promise you that our next video after the one we're going to watch.
how to tune up your electric planer for best results

More Interesting Facts About,

how to tune up your electric planer for best results...

This week's post is going to roll this little boat and we're going to row it on some flat water and we're going to roll it on some lumpy water and you know, I'm not worried about that at all, I know very well. good. These boats are like the sea where they are and I know that the boats will move very well, it will be good, you know, and it will be fun, so we will all be able to see it and it will be a great time. I think it's just It's going to be a great moment, so we'll have a drone up high and some cameras from the shore or a boat following us or something like that and we'll make a good production out of it, since we can do it , so we look forward to it. that and stay with us the other thing I'd like you to do is check out our Patreon page because we have a Patreon page right now and we've been getting some monthly sponsors and it's fantastic so that would be a great way to support us is to visit our Patreon page and if you feel willing to help, any amount is fine with us, that's what we'll do next week.
how to tune up your electric planer for best results
Let's open a small box. I'm going to show you how I set up my little Roy OB

electric

plane and compare it to a new one now that Roy OB sent us this plane. he sent it to us quite a while ago and they asked us to open a box because I think they realized that I use a Roy OB

planer

and I use it for some specific purposes. I've used every type of plane, uh, and I finally settled on a Roy OB, now some people think it's some kind of lightweight tool and you know, maybe they conceived it that way, but I don't use it that way, really I use it in some pretty heavy duty situations and use it in some situations where no other

planer

I've ever been able to buy is going to work well, so what I'm going to do is show you all the things I know about this Roy OB planer and I'm going to show you what That I made it work well for me now, obviously, there's a new Royal Be planer right there and there are several different things about it that I'm going to change, one of the first things I'll do. is to take out this little locking screw here that locks the depth gauge.
how to tune up your electric planer for best results
No, I don't use a depth gauge at all, so I don't need the locking screw and I don't want it to be there, so I got rid of it. After that, the next thing I'm going to do is great, they give you this little key. I'll take it out because I don't really use it. It is made of such a soft steel that when you try to tighten the bolts Abba. with it it just bends the wrench so what I did was use my own wrench this is just an 8 millimeter open end wrench to replace it so I'm not going to take this on board that makes it lighter. a little bit more we're going to get rid of that and now I'm going to turn it over and it has a little bit of plastic on the bottom here I'm going to get rid of the plastic, I'm going to leave that there it's just to preserve I guess you could say and now the next thing I'm going to do What to do is take away what they call a safety feature, this is what they actually call a kickstand, but I don't like the ones that just cost me all kinds of trouble, especially when I go backwards, they just follow everything like this What I'm going to do is unscrew the base and I'm going to take out that little support from there, no, the only thing that this little support is so that when you stop gliding and want to leave your plane, the blades don't touch the place where they put it. you placed, but I'm not going to place it on a cinder block.
I just put it on. I put it on a piece of wood and let the drum stop spinning before I put it down anyway, so it has no use for me, so I'm going to delete it and take these four screws. off the base here just take it out and then put the base back on and there it is, it fell out. You didn't have to remove it, no, there's your little spring for your bracket if the bracket itself and there's the Does the rod rotate right there? I don't have any use for any of those, so I'm just going to throw them in the box right here.
Let me turn it a little bit this way because that way I can put the screws in with my right hand would be a lot easier for me, so here's the fourth screw and I'm going to tilt the planer a little bit that way so they don't fall out. and then I'm going to use my right hand to put the screws in now, you want to be careful not to drive them in there too hard because you might strip them, so be careful, it's four screws now, the base on the bracket is out of there now, another thing that I wanted to show you here. was that the leaves are wider than the base.
I'm just going to put a little reason why I played there to show you that that blade sticks out beyond the base like that. It also protrudes beyond the base on this side. Exactly the same as you. I know, and it's funny that all the planers on the market have blades that are wider than the base. I can't quite figure it out because when you use the planer, if you tilt it a little bit, it cuts a horrible groove in your work, so what I have to do is take these blades out and shorten them a little bit.
I'm not really going to shorten the entire blade, what I'm going to do is polish the corner of the blade a little bit with an aluminum oxide bench grinder. a little bit tapered on both sides and the other thing I just want to say about these particular blades is that they are double sided so when you use this side you just take the blade out, flip it over and put it back on. You have a new leaf. Now this is what I call the input table and this is the output table. The same as an assembler.
It's actually like a small jointer that you would use in a woodworking shop. That's basically how it was conceived, so you know what we've learned about an assembler over the years. You can apply it. The first thing I'm going to do is raise the feed table so it fits very deeply. Now, how to accept. The adjustment on the sheets themselves is related to the output table just as in a assembler. I want them so that when I rotate the blade back out of the way like this, I'm going to set the ruler there along the exit table and I'm going to rotate it until the carbide blade touches the ruler and then I'm going to keep rotating it and it's supposed to you should drag the ruler about an eighth of an inch, well, one dragged about a quarter of an inch so the other one is a little bit. deep on that side, but now I'm going to check it on this side, so I've got the ruler back there and I'm going to rotate it and see that the blade isn't touching the ruler at all, so obviously. the blades are not adjusted correctly, let's try the next blade.
I'm going to leave it on this side that you just touch it but don't drag it, so it's set a little light and this side here that's set a little heavy, so the same on both sides so what I'm going to have to do do is readjust the blades before testing the machine so what I'm going to do now is remove the blades and the pressure bar and I have an 8 millimeter open end. wrench here and I'm going to loosen the pressure bolts with that and just align them in there as deep as they go into the pressure bar.
They're not threaded into the aluminum, they're threaded into the pressure bar so I'm winding them clockwise onto the pressure bar like this and I can feel it bottoming out there so that's good enough like that , no, you see, and I try to slide it out, it doesn't slide, the reason why is because the set screw is sticking down too much and it's hanging off the body like a planer here, so I'll just remove it adjustment screws and then I'll hold this little toy right here and it'll slide to the right. Now the next thing to do is simply push the blades off the pressure bar.
Now you have to be very careful when doing this and I'm a little nervous, but I'm okay. Yes, now they have a very very very sharp edge. I'm going to leave that and do the same thing next, just push it out of there. I now have both blades on my bench grinder. Now these are carbide blades, but notice that they grind very easily, that's because I'm using an aluminum oxide wheel and the aluminum oxide cuts carbide very well. If I didn't have an aluminum oxide wheel, I would try cutting it with a carborundum wheel. I know it wouldn't work, so I'm just taking a little. bit of each corner I have eight corners to polish here you know we have done that task very easily and quickly now I'm going to go back to my bench and to my plane now the next thing I want to do is just place this sheet across the table input here and I'll just pinch it with a finger and show you that the cutting surface of the blade is shorter than the input table is white or the output table has to Be like this, almost all the planers that they sold, the blades They're too wide, the boss is too wide, this one is too wide, all the others are too wide and when you move the planer a little bit, it cuts this nasty furrow in what you're not doing. you can't do it, you have to shorten the blades, you can grind them until they are square at the end and shorten them that way.
I just tapered them like a little thirty degree angle like that and it works perfectly fine now. I have one of the blades back on a pinch bar and even though I cut the blade at a thirty degree angle, I essentially shortened it a little or increased the cutting surface a little. What's happening here now is that the pressure bar itself is hanging at that thirty degree cut. I've already experimented with putting it back together like this and what happens is the pressure bar then if you tilt the planer a little bit the pressure bar cuts a groove in your work so that's not good either so here I go The thing to do is take the entire unit back to the bench grinder and just drain that little corner of the pressure bar so that neither the pressure bar nor the blade can bulldoze my work when I tilt the plane now that I have the bars grinders back together here with the blades on them and I've done the polishing, I'm all set and the next thing I want to do is make I'm sure the two pressure bars in the whole assembly here are exactly the same because they are on opposite sides of the ABBA , if one of them weighed much more than the other, it would make the plane vibrate like crazy and that has already happened to me. experiment with the last planer I used.
I had to balance the two pieces and use bits of saw blade behind the pressure bowls. You can also polish the pressure bar between the pressure bolts or do other different things, but you have to get them. to weigh exactly the same thing so what I've done here is I've improvised a little scale here now I've got a gallon can right here and a hacksaw blade and a little piece of wood and I've got two playing hanging past there and yeah It's like a spring, you see, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put the pressure bar on the end of this real leaf like this, like this, like this, and then I'm going to take a ruler and I'm going to measure. from the deck to the end of the hacksaw blade and basically what I have here is exactly eight inches, so I'm going to remove that one and make sure not to alter the blade because it will change the mechanics. advantage, put this on and I'm going to take my ruler and measure it.
Now stop the shaking and it measures exactly twenty centimeters; Now, if either of those pressure bars and hole sets were heavier than the other, you wouldn't read exactly the same thing that I'm going to show you if I put a little piece of saw blade right in the corner and take my ruler again and I measure again, that comes down to seven and seven-eighths so that has affected it by one-eighth of an inch, that's quite a bit now that I know that the two pressure bars are exactly the same or very, very close. I'm going to take that pressure bar off a little scale and let's go. and install them back into our machine and I have to remove this little guard right here before I slide my unit in there and it goes in pretty easily, in fact, like this, it's in three pieces because the pressure bar is in two pieces and it falls apart, so you have to be very careful that the clear is in the slot properly and I'm going to quickly squeeze one so that it staysHold still like this, okay, Whiteley, squeeze it now.
I'm going to turn it and pick up my other unit enemy and place it in his place. I'm going to go in just a little bit, I'm going to push this bolt a little bit deeper now it goes, now there's a little bar or a little plate on the other end here that you just slide the pressure bar and the blade over like that so it's on. the correct position that way now I'm going to tighten one more of these little bolts like this in the next What you need to do here is adjust the height of the blades and as I told you before, these little allen screws here adjust the height of the blade and these just tighten it up so I'm going to take my ruler and I'm going to extend it along the bottom and adjust the height of the blades so here we go.
I'm going to take my ruler and I'm going to put it along the blade like this and I have four inches on the edge of my tee table like this, now I'm going to turn it around and it doesn't touch the ruler. Now I'll put it on the other side and line it up at a 1/8 inch mark like this and rotate it and I can feel it just touch the ruler and skid. an eighth of an inch creeps to about an eighth of an inch. I would say that that side was about right, so I'm going to tighten this side a little more and I'm going to try to put this side back on. the ruler that's there again, hold it down and tight and turn it.
I don't have it yet, so what I'm going to do again I'm going to loosen the one in the center that I originally tightened and I'm going to tighten this one a little bit and I'm going to loosen this one on this side right here now when I turn it with the allen key it should go uphill quite easily. You can see it's in a slot that's tapered here. It's got like It's a little bit tapered like that so as you go uphill it gets tighter and you have to loosen the pinch bolts and adjust the height of the pins so we've got it pretty close at this point and I'm going to put this again.
Turn it on and turn it one more time, it's still not high enough so I know what to do. Just put in your Allen wrench. Turn up the volume a little more. Now we will try again. Just put it there to see if we get close. Oh, there you go, so now I've done too much, but don't be surprised if I tighten this tightening bolt to take it down a little bit. They both like that now. To try this again, I'm going to take and put my five inch mark on the edge of the table like this and then rotate it to grab the ruler, drag it about an eighth of an inch and stop right there. and that's exactly what you want now let's try the other side I'm going to go back put the ruler there very carefully five inches on the edge of the table turn it around to grab the ruler and drag it about an eighth of an inch and now it stops over there.
I fumbled around a bit, so I'm going to try again. I don't mind testing from time to time. I'll take my ruler there right, drag it about an eighth of an inch done, that's set correctly right there, now what you need to do with this is just tighten it so that the middle one is tight, that one is tight and that one tells you that They don't have to be very tight because the plates can't come out of there because of this opening that they're in, so that's good enough, like that, all right, the next thing I'm going to do here is remove this little God that I had have to lift to get the blades and the pressure bars in because it's a safety god of some kind, it's designed to keep your fingers, I guess, out of your work, that sometimes gets in your way and the last thing you'd want to do It would be to bend down and activate it with your finger and take your fingers out. so close to the blade when you operate the machine you have no possibility of getting your fingers into that blade, so it seems unnecessary to me.
I removed it from the other one and I'll just remove it from this one. unscrew that little screw and there are more pieces for the bag, okay, we have our blades in place and adjusted. There is one more thing I would like to show you about this Royo Be planer and that is that the feed table when adjusted rises up and down so it is not on an inclined plane so here the ones that are on an inclined plane do not work very well for me because when you turn the adjustment knob it turns the table a little bit and when it does, one corner will go up and the other corner will go down, so in effect it's out of adjustment, so you turn it the other way and this corner will go down and that corner will rise, so it doesn't matter which way you turn it. it's always out of adjustment, I just can't use it that way, it doesn't cut the same depth on both sides and it just won't work very well, especially when you're trying to do something real like finish work with it because you can literally take a plane like this, this one from here, I can literally make a hole with it to almost Sandin, but if you have that inclined plane there, you're going to get in trouble with a real style or rate. or a really flat surface, so this one, like I said, rises up and down and works great for me now.
The next thing I want to talk to you about is how this planer ejects correctly, how good it is X, now I like it. I bought it because it has this round duct here and you know, I know you can put a vacuum in the duct and all these different things and the other thing is it has this little fin right here. just designed so that when you shake it one way it's supposed to eject one side and you shake it another way it's supposed to eject the other side well, you know, for some reason this all doesn't work, the fin fins are great, but there is no air coming out of one side, so if I turn it on a lot of air comes out of this side if you turn it in the right direction, but when you turn it to the other side hardly any air comes out. on this side, so when you try to blow air out this side, it's just going to get stuck and when you're working on something and there's a lot of work to do, you don't want to keep turning the machine off and cleaning. throat or you have to keep going and have a pencil with you or something and keep tickling your throat and all this kind of stuff doesn't work and every one of the other planes is that I have, I have a There's a boss plane over there and I have had many others and I just bought a new Festool planer that I haven't tried yet or I have tried it but haven't looked at it closely.
This planer, right? Here's the one for me. I had to make quite a few modifications to the way it ejects to get it to work properly, but once I got it done, it works fantastic, so let me give you a little demo on the air. and the pressure of the air coming out of the two sides, you know, if I lift it up and turn it so that the flap flaps and covers like this and pulls the trigger pretty good, nothing special, but pretty good, why flap to the other side? absolutely nothing Nothing comes out of this side, so we know it's going to get stuck right away and that's exactly what it's going to do ultimately, what I'm going to do is fix it, like I said, quite a few modifications to the throat.
I'm going to cut the fin off, you know, and have it eject both ways, one of the things that's really important to me when I'm gliding overhead, whether I'm under a hole or the planing mocks and a board like this I want to make sure it's ejected that way so it doesn't blow in my face. I can't eject it this way like a Makita planer, it just won't work for me. So if I turn it and I'm playing the other way, I want it to eject that way, so it has to eject from both sides and it has to eject very, very well because I get involved with a lot of wet woods and cutting taunts in wet wood. and basically like in a seat, an aisle or a Magni Hall.
I'll cut a jig even underwater below the waterline and then what I'll do is heat it up a little bit and dry it before I glue it on so you know I'm cutting scrapes, you know, below the waterline on wood that's wet. and wet wood jams this planer so this is the one I've been using this is the one you've seen all the time and I made all the necessary modifications to it to make it work fantastic and I want to show you what I did to it let's take a look first to the new one now it's facing down and you can see the fin right here the intended use for that is to direct the chips to come out in this direction or this direction well it doesn't seem to work very well yeah not enough air coming out of the machine on one side. there is no way to get out of it no matter which way you turn it and the other side has a minimal amount of air so something is holding the air in.
I'm just going to temporarily remove the fin and the switch so you can get a Well, look at the throat, this is quite different than any of the other planners, it has two slots here, this is the slot here that the chips come out of when You do the cleaning and this is the slot through which the air comes out because it has a fan and the fan is to remove the air from the throat and also to cool the engine. It doesn't work very well as far as ejecting chips, I could eject it on one side like I said but it won't blow it up, the other side has some problem with the aerodynamics there and I'm about to fix it and I'm about to show you what I did to it to mine that makes mine work so well right now.
On this one here you can see that I've squared off the corners of the hole that the splinters make by just reaching in with a chisel and chewing on the corners a little bit and the other thing I've done. The air slot is the same way the air flight had kind of a diagonal block on the end here and one on the other end there, so I didn't like that and squared them off. but when I went to run the machine, you know it still wasn't blowing air out the side very well, so I took a piece of caulk tube or a piece of Cochran caulk plastic and cut it to fit. there and I reduced its diameter, it's like a spring and I put it there so that it doesn't block the place where the chips come out here, but it blocks half of the air slot so the air is forced to rise. that side or that end of the tube now when I put a plug on one side it pushes out the other side and if I put the plug on this side it pushes out the other side and it pushes out a huge amount of air, it doesn't. get stuck more, you know, so it's very easy to use and what I'm going to do now is give you a little demonstration, okay, here we go with our new planer.
Now I have the flap switch off on port, so I should be shooting to the starboard side here and let's give it a try. I have it tight so it almost bites into the eighth of an inch and will flow a few chips. It worked pretty well, but let's put in the flap switch. to starboard and the fin will now be there to shoot to port now that we have it set quite deep again and as I said before when I play in wet wood it's a completely different story but this is also likely to get stuck let's try it.
It's stuck. Look, it's just full. Now you have the fin there. You can't even move the flap switch. There's no way to get him out of there. I can't seem to let go of it but you don't want to keep stopping and doing all this stuff anyway so it's a total inconvenience and if you try to do it while it's running it could be dangerous so you know what to do. What I do is I modify it from here like the one I'm going to use and show you and the other thing I'd like to tell you is that the other one is going to ruin twice the power, so let's take a look at it now, let's see. how does my old machine work now i have it set pretty deep just like i said there is absolutely no problem blowing up the starboard side now let's switch to port side now that the little planer works perfectly really really well this is really a simulation of cutting mocks into planks, whether you're on the bench or under a boat, or generally under a boat, when you're in a boat the plank is wet and when it's wet it hangs up a lot more, this one will really work Well, whether it's wet or no, the other one won't work at all, so you know you have to make these modifications to it and when you do, you have one of the most useful tools I've ever worked with.
I realized that The Boys from Chile the only thing they used to build their boats was a chainsaw, an

electric

plane and a drill, nothing more than power tools or anything like that, and they do the job and they do it well, so You know it's been great. One day I remember the first electric plane I saw back in the '50s, early '50s, was a Skill 100 with a spiral blade and they were pretty dangerous and didn't work as well as you might think, but that's all. which there was and then there's another planer, a little Porter cable, I think that's what I have there in a box, which was the most dangerous power tool that was ever produced and I have it and I'll show it to you, but never use one in any situation either, so this is my electric planer or the EOB.
The other thing I'd like to show you very quickly is that I took a little piece of the sink drain. This is like a small kitchen sink drain or even a bathroom sink. I'm assuming it's the right diameter and it slides over the ejector tube that way and when I cut angles like this it allows me to keep the same angle as long as I keep this hand in the right place trying to keep that angle with a very small surface area isa little shaky with a power plane or a manual plane or otherwise, but this thing there makes it easier to maintain that angle, so you know, I have this there a lot when I'm doing things when I'm under the boat cutting taunts I can cut going in that direction I can cut going in the other direction I can cut coming from the grain down I can cut from this end going up it doesn't fail

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