How to Silicone Corners

Hello everyone, today I am back with my silicon profiling tools and in today's video I will show you how to make silicon

corners

and at the end I will talk about the price of profiling tools and discuss some new and interesting profiling tools. innovations so I'm making this video today because my original

silicone

video that I made two years ago that has had an incredible amount of views I can't thank you enough for that the only obvious admission in that video was that I didn't do it. I explain the process of applying

silicone

in

corners

, so I thought I'd do a quick video today where we go over a really simple process for achieving perfect corners when applying silicone.

Such a lovely and simple tool kit today. A heavy duty applicator gun I bought this from Travis Perkins in Cornwall years ago, a cheaper gun will probably do an equally good job but for £10 more you get a heavy duty gun and I have found that cheap guns tend to fail after a time. I have an anti-unibond. The silicone mold sealant I bought this because it's light gray so I'm hoping it works today and looks nice and clear for the test and the silicone profiling kit 5 which is basically the equivalent of what I used in my video.

Two years ago it used to be called fuji, for some reason they changed the name and I have two mystery products here that I'll show you at the end of the video. Today's profiling tool is made by Kramer as was the Fuji kit featured in my last video. I should point out that I was not paid anything to make this video. They actually don't even know I'm doing it, but it turns out they sent me some. of these kits when my last video started gaining a little traffic, so it makes sense to use them in this video, but during the video I'll be referring to all kinds of other profiling tools and other innovations, so let's go over what It happens if you try.

Silicone a corner incorrectly. You don't need a huge profile when you're applying silicone. I described all of this in my previous video, but you just want to overlap the edge of the gasket a couple of millimeters on each side. However, for today's video, I'm going to use this eight millimeter profile because I want to make the silicone bead as exaggerated and large as possible for the purpose of the demonstration. Now those of you who have seen my original video will know that instead of cutting diagonally. As you are encouraged to do with this nozzle, I'm going to cut straight at 90 degrees through the nozzle, so a couple of key points on why we cut the nozzle at 90 degrees, point number one, one of the features of this tool is obviously, it has these different profile thicknesses, you need to squeeze out a bead of silicon that, if it's a little bit wider, exactly matches the profile of the tool, so that when you drag the tool over the silicon, you're removing a precise amount of silicon.

To leave a beautiful clean line behind, you cannot guarantee this. If you make a diagonal cut at the number two point on the nozzle, cutting the nozzle at 90 degrees, you will have the best possible chance of getting in as much silicon as possible. that joint without leaving gaps By cutting the nozzle diagonally and dragging the silicon along the joint, there is a greater chance that you will leave gaps on the side of the joint, which is fine if you are machining it right away, but it is a disaster if you are one of those people who insists on using a detergent spray as part of the process because the spray gets into the gaps it prevents the silicone from adhering and the joint fails before you've even finished it, how do you get the thickness ? of the nozzle correctly, the best way to do this is to experiment with trial and error on a small area of ​​the joint because a big advantage of this tool is that if you make a mistake, you can simply remove it with a right angle profile and you will know that you do not you have it thick enough when you run the tool along the missing sections of the joint and in the perfect scenario you want to end up with a nozzle that is a little wider than the profile you are using, so when you do it in a corner, you should always start with the vertical joint, we push the silicon into the joint like this and then using the tool we drag it along the silicon to smooth it out beautifully and this is the power of this tool that produces such straight lines effortlessly then we can wipe off the residue with some tissue ready for the next run so far so good but this is where everything tends to go wrong because at this point we think it's right let's proceed with the horizontal lines so we start with this one and then we do the next one, so this is where it gets quite tricky because now you have to somehow get it around the corner while maintaining the vertical, the beautiful clean lines of the vertical joint that you just carved.

I'm going to start from this edge and scrape it off, it's not quite stuck in the corner so I would do a little bit more and now we're trying to do the final stretch, the problem we're having is getting close to the edge to try. and we dragged it around the corner we ended up interfering with the vertical run which we then tried to sort after the event and you start getting into a mess now you might say it looked pretty good why did you have to do it? Well, I wanted it to look as perfect as possible, but suddenly you find yourself in a real mess, which is a shame because you have these fantastic, clean lines until you get to the corner and then if you're really unlucky.

You will continue to use it and after the skin has been removed, after a few minutes, it will start to create vibrant shapes on the surface of what was previously a beautiful clean straight line, so using the clever little right angle tool what I am going to do. Remove all that silicon that we put in. That's why it's worth experimenting, because when you can remove it so easily, why not practice on a small area before you start? So we're going to do the vertical section again and now we're going to use tools. that up and what I'm doing now is going down to the bottom and scraping it off from the corner so that we have a nice clean line to start the horizontal sections and this is the difference now that we have Once that vertical silicon line is done, we're going to leave so that it sticks together so that when we do the horizontal lines we don't interfere or mess with the vertical line, so how long should you let the silicon adhere well, as you can see here?

After about three quarters of an hour to an hour, the silicone was well skinned but still a little soft underneath, so I decided to leave the silicone overnight so that it would be fully hard and very sturdy when I started making the horizontal lines and as you. You may know this from one of my previous videos that appears on the screen. Now the silicon will bond to the existing silicon, so it's okay to let the vertical line harden before doing the horizontal lines, which is why the profiling kit instructions suggest that when working on the floor grout.

The lines start from the corners in both directions. Well, I have to be honest. I've made many attempts over the years to do that and the problem is that it's very difficult to get a nice, clean corner because every time you start. from the corner you end up dragging a little bit of silicon from the other line that is at 90 degrees, so I have a much simpler technique for us DIYers that basically involves a continuous movement around the entire corner, so I'm doing the two horizontal lines like before, but this time I'm taking the tool and I'm going around the corner in one fluid motion and I've got two little spots of silicone that I'm fine-tuning to remove.

The right angled edge of the tool ends with a corner that, while not perfect, is not far off from another important point to note about silicon in the corners if you are using one of the orange Kramer profiling tools with a smart little black insert. guides that allow you to apply silicone across intersecting grout lines, you will find that as you get closer to the corner, the tool's black insert does not allow you to reach all the way to the corner. It's okay, you can just remove it and continue around the corner. corner as I just showed and then place the insert back into the tool to continue the line.

I mentioned at the beginning of this video that I had a couple of other cool tools to show you. The first is the 7 profiling kit which is reasonably new to the market and what's really interesting about this kit is that it has this new corking knife with a saw and two scraping blades. Now I especially like this tool because in the past I had to rely on a Stanley knife to remove the silicon. or one of these scrapers, the problem with the Stanley knife is that by design you can't get close enough to the corner to scrape and cut the silicon, which you want to do in a line almost parallel to the side wall so as not to scratch the wall , you have a similar problem with the scraper being totally at the wrong angle, so in the past I've often had to deal with pulling the blade out of the tool, which I wouldn't recommend anyone get it at the right angle to start cut through the silicon, but this tool is much better, it gets much closer to the edge and you can see how effective it is at removing old silicon.

A bit brutal to be honest, but I suppose it could be useful for situations like when there are cracks between joints where I've found in the past that the silicon stubbornly refuses to come out. The manufacturer says that it is not advisable to use this tool. acrylic or synthetic surfaces which are obviously very easy to scratch but nevertheless it is a great tool and a great addition to the market but there are other great tools as well and I especially like the look of this silicone sealant remover tool from Draper the final . What I wanted to show you today are these adjustable nozzles that can be rotated 360 degrees again.

This is a great little tool. I have seen alternatives to this. I was in BQ recently and saw one on the shelf so you can twist this mouthpiece. It has a little click when it returns to the neutral position, which is a nice touch. You can rotate this nozzle 360 ​​degrees, so since I made my last video on silicon, a lot of people said Charlie was a great tool, but I just can't figure it out. behind the taps, what do you recommend when you have a couple of centimeters at most to play with and even this little tool that comes in the chroma kit is too wide in those types of situations?

I think this will be a great way to angle the silicon into the joint in a way that you simply can't do with silicone tubing and perhaps when combined with the leaky flow tool which is a much more maneuverable profiling tool on the end of a stick, I think it would be a solution to a lot of the problems people have had with silicone in restricted spaces, so price-wise, take the Kramer kit on Amazon as a typical example. It has kit 5 for 1695 and kit 7 which has the additional plugging blade tool in 1850 and one more. basic kit for 1145 I know in the states the kit is more expensive, we have an example here 26 dollars for the profile 5 kit. the profile 7 kit with the additional grout blade has not arrived in the states yet, you can get the 5 profiling kit in the Home Depot store for 25 a little cheaper than Amazon and in both the UK and the US there are of course many other profiling kits available although I think Kramer is the only one that has little black insert tools that allow you to gently silicon over the cross joints intercepting the grout lines and I saw this completely smooth sealant on b q recently at a 32 pound, you really can't go wrong, although the tool is a little restrictive because it only has two profile widths of 16 and 10 millimeters and 10 millimeters, as I said before, that's a pretty wide bead to put in the sealant joint, so that's it for today.

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