How To Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 02-07 Mazda 6May 30, 2021
Hi, I'm Mike, car 1a. We have been selling auto parts for over 30 years. Hey guys, suing for money. Auto here and in this episode we are going to remove our
intakefrom a 2.3 liter and up or 7 Mazda 6. I am going to
gaskets, show you the other components under the
intakethat need to be removed to service the knock sensor and the PCV hose, so we're going to drain the coolant in our Mazda 6 oh seven and to do that, the radiator drain plug is right here in the center, yeah, they make it with a nice little cutout for you.
You can use a Phillips or flat head screwdriver. I prefer a flat head one and just twist that plastic spigot to make sure I have a drip pan ready to go. just keep it up there until the heavy flow goes down before reinstalling the radiator drain, petcock. I took out the gasket, the O-ring that goes with it because I want to seat it on the plug which I don't. I don't want that sitting there because it can, it'll end up, it could end up sitting on its side and cause a leak, so I've got my flathead screwdriver.
I'm going to start this before we begin. Disconnect the negative cable, it is good practice to do this whenever working on an engine before disconnecting the fuel line from the sensors, so make sure it is disconnected, tilt down the mass air flow sensor connector and release it from the mass air flow sensor just push here on this air box cover just a guide to hide we need to disconnect the air injection hose so these two blue tabs have ears so you squeeze them and twist the hose . We're going to disconnect the clamp on the throttle body to the air box, that air tube is connected to the air filter housing and that's a 10 millimeter bushing.
Awesome, we just need to loosen it enough so we can move that hose once the air hose is disconnected. From the throttle body, this entire air box is mounted on rubber bushings at the bottom, just grab it firmly and lift it up, actually lift up the engine cover, just a plastic cover that has rubber on it. Fonz likes the boy, lift her up firmly. The set that has the rubber bushings on one side. In the clips before making the intake
manifoldyou can see that this is on a vehicle that is outside and some chipmunks are having fun without mice.
I'm going to clean this up because we're going to remove that intake, so now I'm going to unplug. the two connectors for the intake runner controls and then I have the injector harness that I'm going to unclip so do that with each injector easy connector right here on that tab so let's access that I'm just going to unplug everything what I need, get it out of my way, so push that tab back and lift this one up, do that with the four objectors, we're going to disconnect the main injector harness or the intake harness right here, press down on this tab, push it down, pull now.
I want to get this out of the input. I'm going to pull this down to see if it slides out, come on yeah we'll just tape it to the engine, heat makes things go bad after a while so now we have the Injection Altitude of fuel, so we're going to disconnect the emission line down here, see what we get, just connect this piece of plastic and pull it out of there. I think it has a lock. Look, it has the padlock on. Other than that, I think it's a matter of just throwing away. I like to put it back together so I don't lose the lock and secondly, we want to put it up.
I just have to place it. I don't have to do anything with work now. I have the other vacuum hose here. and look, we have another red tab, they get a little screwdriver for that one, pull this red tab, oh, I think the red clip here is for pushing down and releasing, so I'm taking a couple of needle tips and I'm writing right on the red plastic on both sides pushing it down pull up just look to the side now we have the fuel line same as the other red clip I'm going to pull it back all the way take it out and slide it down I'm going to reassemble it so when When it comes time to stall you don't have to worry about that, okay, we're going to disconnect the fuel rail from the two mounting bolts with a ten millimeter socket and lose it.
I see you think it's to disconnect the fuel rail with the injectors. I want to keep them intact so it's a firm pull. I like to hold the injector while rocking it back and forth. I really don't want it to come off the side of the rail. Sometimes you can spray a little bit of penetrating spray or like a brake cleaning spray just to loosen the downpipe so there is a fuel injector, it's all for injectors with the rail, make sure you get a retaining pin when you take the rail off the injector because all the gas is going to be stuck in that chamber that I don't want to spill it on the ground, I'm just going to let it sit there and continue to drain, so you're going to disconnect the inlet.
There are several bolts, the ones at the top, obviously you can see one, two and then three and then if you look down in the middle, there's a little access hole right here in the center of the entrance, there's one directly below here, to that's the access holes and then there will be one below this, you can go through the gap right here and stand. with the front it goes through the gap and then there's one in the far corner behind this power steering right there. I'm going to start with the center. Here I have a combination of a four inch extension with a ten millimeter deep socket with a one inch, so you go into the fan shroud, put it back on the fan rail, and then line it up with that access hole and fish it.
Use your hand once you go in to feel the bolt once it comes out. connected to it, this may take some time, but basically you are fishing without seeing what you are doing, see if it is connected to the socket, that would be really good. I fished the extension with the plug behind the power steering, you can see through the plastic of the inlet and the bolt break off, it doesn't take much to free them once they are free, you can remove them from the game with your fingers, you know, That's all the way to the end, let's see if we can guide you.
If not, we will use the bag now again. It falls. Will fall. I'm going to fish out the magnet and grab it. I'm going to take the ones that are outdoors. We can see that they are unequivocally forever. one there and there is another one under the throttle body. I could feel it with my fingers, so I didn't have to look hard to see that, see, let's do it. There's another length for the two lengths to stay together, so the throttle body section before we continue with the bolts, I want to disconnect this harness because it doesn't go with the intake, so I'm going to get this out of the way while I have this firmness of admission.
I only use a couple of needle tips. and squeeze the two tabs, it is possible, if not, sometimes you can push them down, it is not easy for me to get to the rest, so I hope that once the entrance is freed and starts to rise, we will continue to disconnect. I have one more hidden down below, it's right under here a second one and that one is also down there, so I'm going to use the magnet just to get it out of there, so there's one more bolt for the entrance located down below, it's easy to access, it's actually right there ten. millimeter cap I'm going to let it go, I'm going to let it go, I'm going to put it down, yeah, okay, I'm going to grab it tight, I'll grab it and I'll do it and I won't get anywhere, so it's stuck there pretty good, like this that I just took a small flat screwdriver and I went over here and I just moved freely, okay, now I'm going to reach down before I can pull the heart, the entrance up and I have a disconnection of this little clip from the body of Highness Towards the entrance, it is not easy to get to. there and I have to disconnect this connector from here, let's see if I can push it out of the way, first pull it after there's one more connector, I can see here, I'm just going to squeeze that tab, pull it.
Let's see how much movement we can move this. Well, it looks like the knock sensor connector is connected right here, so pull it down and remove it. There are many connectors. This harness has some nice plastic clips that I can tighten, look, okay, okay, that's the knock sensor, so I'm going to disconnect it right here to see if I can move down now with the separate input. I see the emission tube that has to come out of the head. a 22 millimeter wrench and unscrew that will come out with the inlet and you will have to reverse the procedure when installing, leave the tube in the inlet and begin before mopping the inlet to the body, the head now that it, remove it from the path, the mission for them, sorry, I can lift him up enough to see what else might be holding him back.
I have a PVC hose attached to the bottom so now I can lift up the inlet and I can see. that the PVC hose, the PCV hose is rotten, soft and collapsing right here, that's the last thing I have to disconnect, this hose will have to be
replaced, so now, hopefully, everything disconnected, we will see another nightmare, a more connector right here, hose connector this one. way the wires just plug it in from the body these are the compression tabs so you don't push on them plug it in through both ok thanks and there's your input.
Here we have the input and you can see that it is quite carbon DUP and this is. Hard plastic made, it's not metal or aluminum so I can't really clean the chamber and I really like to soak it or something so we're just going to do a quick clean of the surface with some throttle body cleaner so That way it burns, it is a material. that can burn in the chambers, here's an old gasket that's stuck in there, so let's get it out. The new gasket kit I purchased came with the four intake
gasketson the throttle gasket and also the photo plate gasket.
I'm going to take some bottle cleaner, just spray the surface. I'm going to use a neoprene hand brush and just take the new pawn bristles and remove any residue that's on that surface. I can't use sandpaper, we'll end up using the blowgun and blow dry, make sure there's no residue left behind, the replacements are just a rubber gasket, tilt it so you can finish everything, okay, I'm going with that soap right here on the tray, I'll go. to the cylinder head side block and I'm going to clean that out. I'm just going to remove the old rubber gaskets that are stuck to the cylinder head.
There are four of them, just throw them away, throw them away. I just got it. I am now. I'm going to spray the throttle cleaner on the aluminum head, soften the carbon, if it almost softens it, what I like to use is a real woodworking sanding block, it's an E block and I put some high grit emery cloth on it so that it does not soften. Of course and I leave it flat that way I can leave it even clean now I don't use a grinding wheel because I can't dig into the aluminum it will remove too much material and I'm standing on a level keel it's I'm not going to just spray again and I could see where it hit the sandpaper or emery cloth and where it did not hit.
I will continue to repeat this procedure until I am satisfied with these results. Okay, now before my final cleaning. I'm going to take my air rubber and buy air. I'm just going to blow into the injector holes. I'm going to cover it with a cloth so that they don't clean every port with sand. It also ensures that there are no foreign elements. substance there like rocks or sand. Look, I can take a clean rag and clean up. I'll take my light and look in the cylinders to confirm that there is nothing there except large debris. Then we will prepare to reassemble this mileage. engine the valves are relatively clean it's kind of surprising so now before I install the intake I'm just going to take the shop air in again and blow out the ports to make sure there's no debris trapped in there okay let's take it to the bench and we can put the gaskets on here we have our throttle body and I'm going to remove the gasket because the kit comes with a replacement and you always wanted to put it on anyway.
I'm just gently prying out the old rubber gasket with a pocket flat blade screwdriver, just remove it and pop it out, the new one will come with the alignment indentations in the rubber so it's easy to reinstall. Here we have two sets of intake gaskets from my left of the 1st car and this is the OE that just came out as You can see that the exact design shoots a diameter on the rubber, the same height, the same keys and then the 1st kit car comes with extra, this is if it had an EGR valve, this particular model does not have it and another gasket for one of the vacuum cleaners. ports so we are only going to use the parts that we need that go with our system so if you need this Platt or any other parts for your car head over to 1a auto comm or click the link below here is our entry and here are our new gaskets, we are going to install them.
You can see that there is a rubber dimple that will line up with the slotted hole in the entrance and that's just pressing it down properly to make sure it's completely flush. AlreadyYou know, it works. on its way to the four cylinders, then we'll put the round gasket for the throttle there or it's actually an EGR port on the internal intake sport, so right here the emission port comes in, you'll see the dimpled slot right there on the line of rubber parts, you know, now we're ready to install, so as we bring this down, we have a lot to connect before we connect it to the actual body of the head, that PCV hose down there.
I hope you can get a good angle right here. I have to plug it back into the actual input and make sure it is fully seated and the clamp comes loose at the same time. I have an extra light because I can't really see it there. I just want to make sure. He's sitting on the plastic, looks like I need to go more, okay, now we see him pulling on that red tab, hopefully I won't hurt my fingers. Okay, now we have the PCV, so I'm going to connect the knock sensor connector, so now with my knock sensor connected.
I'm going to attach all these lovely body clips, slide them into place on this side. I'm going to reconnect my two connectors down here and reconnect this one and that one, this one just push the same thing with this one, you'll hear it, click, you'll see. Come on, yes, come on, now I have all my connectors connected and I'm ready to line up my first intake bolt, look what I almost forgot, the emission tube that goes to the chamber over here, we have to thread it by hand and tighten it before . we build the admission. This is a 22mm metric wrench.
It's just an extra emission port that pushes air deeper into the chamber. I'll only take you up to 22 millimeters once this tightens your neck in line. Install my eight entry. boots that are tight. I'm going to hold the inlet up and just install them in any order because I'm not going to tighten them yet. I'm just starting them manually so I can endure this every year for two lengths. the ones that are too long and take the bolts went through the photo body plate and the other six short ones go along the entrance. I also always keep an eye on my joints to make sure they're all still lined up in the visual gaps that I can see the river peeking through, it's not unusual for one of them to come apart and shift, so just before I tighten everything up, I I'll give a quick overview, there are all the tires still aligned perfectly.
These are the easy ones. For starters, you can't even see the lower ones. I'm not even adjusting it. I'm just hitting rock bottom. Okay, now that we have the top supported, I'm ready to do the magic and guide these bottom bolts. You can't see it in place, so I'm going to install the long bolts, the bottom one here on the throttle body. I'm going to press my arm down, hope for the best and place the bottom three and then the last one. This car goes up in the air and is down, that's the easiest one of all.
Well, sometimes when you install a bolt on an extension in a place where you can't put your hands like the old fashioned way. I was taught this over 30 years ago, an old timer put thick grease in there and covered the head of the bolt, so now when the bushing goes in there, tighten it to cause a nice thick joint, so I have a little more movement . room to tilt it without it falling over, made it wonderful. I'm just going to put in my little one inch extension so I can start it right, so the last one at the top is that access porthole that I showed you when we were moving in.
I'm going to put a lot of paste in there because I really don't want this to fall off, so I originally went into the fan shroud where the fan goes up to the access port, you can't see it, I think I saw with my mirror and put a light on it, like this So now that we get to our vehicle, I'm going to put the last intake bolt on the easiest one. I'm going to tighten it a little, it will be the last bolt I'm going to use. To tighten, I'm definitely going to tighten all the ones that meet the head for the actual entry and then I'll come down here and talk about this so tight that's probably the best thing we can do first before we talk about the top that just bottomed out. .
Now I'm going to lower it and talk up. Now we have the eight bolts in our head entry and we're going to tighten them. The torque spec is 12 to 14 foot-pounds, so I have my quarter-inch torque wrench. here and I'm going to go from the center out when you talk about anything you always want to go from the center out most of the time unless they specify something else yeah two more at the end here we have that one down so once you talk about that, let's go up and just do the procedure one more time to alleviate any slack that you may have caused by talking, just talk twice and then we have the last one down here okay, so the input is tight and we'll give it one more quick pass on the top and ready to attach the accessories to it, so now I'm just going to put the harness back on with the little clips that clip onto the ears of the plastic socket there. probably five in total, so now I'm going to clean the throttle body before putting it back on.
Here we have our throttle body and it's an electronic throttle body, so here's an actuator motor that you don't want to ever push the throttle. I want it, you will basically take the time. This is timed to the pedal inside, so you can't force it. The gears can get messed up, so I'll make sure to tilt it and leave the electronics on top. I don't want any throttle cleaner to get in, I just want to clean the seat where the butterfly sits. It rides a lot on this body. I have a neoprene brush and I can get a little liquid in there.
Really get that scrub. I said whatever you want. force this butterfly open, you can't do that, I don't recommend it, it's turn it over, hit it to the front, it was like chocolate, wipe the side one last time, okay, I'm going to let it dry, you'll probably put a clean and nice towel. I'm going to put the gasket on the throttle body. I'm going to line up the little plastic guided tabs that I have here. Hopefully we don't fight with you like this, she's fighting with me, come on, okay, she feels like this, let's make sure we get everything we need out of the way you do, so that's going to lower full assembly bolts, the torque on this It's a hundred and one pounds per inch, not pounds per inch, the difference between breaking and I'm telling you, so it's a hundred and one pounds per inch that I have.
My torque wrench is ready to go with an eight millimeter socket and I'm just going to cross it diagonally, let it bottom out and the bottom will go back like this and I'm going to tighten it to one hundred and one inch pounds now that I'm at it. I'm going to connect my cooler hose to the front where the radiator is and then there's one in the back that's a loop style. Look you put the hoses all the way in and then I'll take my pliers and tighten the clamps sometimes we don't you have to guide it up with your finger connected the emission tube to the inlet which is the fuel line that's going to go to the rail of fuel, it goes to the air box and look, you just push that down, it's like hold with your finger, okay, so all the hoses are on.
Now I'm going to install the fuel rail and then the injector harness. Okay, so we have our injector rail. I'm going to line it up and these are the o rings and in this case I inspected them all they are in good shape no dry rot no cracks I would replace them and install this injector rail and what I like to do is use a cleaner of accelerator and just spray it where the old wings are. We give it a quick push down and they fall into place. Now we can install the injector bolts, so there are two mounting bolts and they go directly to the aluminum ears.
This is a ten millimeter socket. It's an eight millimeter bolt. We worry about the second or the. The torque on this is 15 to 19 foot pounds, it's definitely pretty important to tighten the fuel spool, believe it or not, because you want to make sure those injectors are sitting directly on another thing I like to practice every time you work on your injectors or move the injectors just start the car just turn the key to the on position then turn it off and then turn it back on and that way the pump builds up pressure in the rail and if there is an injector that is not seated properly, I'll see a little fuel leak, it's better than running it and finding out, so there's a 10 millimeter socket and it weighs 19 foot pounds.
Double check, perfect. I'm going to connect this fuel line. We're going to put an autolock on it. Just press. Turn it on and it'll click on that tug, it looks good, so now I'm going to go get my injector harness and put it back together, so since the vehicle is number seven behind us, it's pretty well fitted to the shape I used to be in, so I'm going to connect cylinder one, two, three. I'm going to place these plastic grommets back where they were located. This is the electronic throttle body connector that clicks down and pushes that red tab down, which is a locker and was on that bolt as a guide.
Here we have the main injector harness, this is a dead front on this plastic, it snaps in here, so now we just have the intake runner solenoids and we're ready to install the air box. See how this thing is rounded so you can see the three ears that push inward. the rubber bushings and that will just go in if you have some lubricating spray like a penetrating spray or something like that just give the rubber bushings a chance it will help the plastic break down a lot easier now that I have these air inlets. hose to the throttle body slide it on and now I know they're all lined up and just put it down that's how easy it was because I pre-sprayed the rubber here's a mission tube from the valve cover line up the blue box just put it on now just We'll tighten the clamp on the throttle body and then connect our mass air flow sensor so the clamp on the air vent tube is 10 millimeters.
You can also use a Phillips and we have a connector for the mass air flow sensor that clicked you hooked right here and this actually has a guide on the other side that clamp is sitting a little ear here I want you to put that highness on it which is a good idea to keep it from rubbing and We're on the wires so there you have it we're all set now we're going to add coolant after working on the cooling system we're going to make sure the petcock is off which already I did and I will do it. add my coolant.
I already premixed it. I'll take it to the top of the visual part of the radiator, not to the top of the neck. I want to take it up here and I could see it directly and then I'm going to fill my overflow tank. I'll just take it to the cold mark. There is a line here. It already has coolant, so I won't have to fill it. It's a little above the cold line. which is where I'll leave it because while I run this without burping, put the lid on, then you can start the car and run it for about 45 minutes before the fans come on, once they come on you can check your car.
Cooling takes about an hour, so if it is completely cooled, you can come to this overflow tank and check its level if it is very low or not even in the tank, fill it to the low level and then up and running. Never again remove the cap when the radiator is hot or the engine reaches maximum temperature. Thanks for looking, visit us at one Arrow Comm for quality auto parts, fast, free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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