How to Renovate a Mudroom | I Like To Make Stuff

Hi, I'm Bob and I like to do things today. Let's

make

this hallway look like this today. We're here in our laundry room. Cut out the hallway. This is the room we entered from our garage before moving on to the rest. of the house and it is functional, it is very outdated and needs an update, so today we will remove some of the old

stuff

, add some storage and build a little place to put our shoes on before we leave. Out for the day, first we have to do a demonstration. Let us begin. We turned off the water to the sink, so I'm going to unplug it, take it out, and throw it away.

Luckily, there's not much to take away. this room before we can go to work, but one thing that does have to be removed is the border of the wallpaper that surrounds the room, we are going to remove it with a steamer, this old fan had been disconnected from the electricity a long time ago and the wires weren't even live if they were live, you'll definitely want to cover that box with a metal cover when using a patch like that on drywall, sometimes a second coat of mud is needed to cover the texture of the patch, so after I did that and it dried.

I watered in some more drywall mud to try to add the texture of the ceiling to that area. I used a special brush made just for this that I bought in the paint section of Lowe's to add this texture back to the ceiling. It took me a couple of tries to get it right, but it blended in with most of the baseboards in the room. We're still in pretty good shape, so I tried to remove them without damaging them, although some of the finish nails remained in the wall. and those can be nailed into the drywall, let's prime and paint the room and then it was time to change all the electrical outlets, always

make

sure to turn off the circuit breakers and then test each outlet and each light switch before you start unscrewing any

stuff

.

To break up the old linoleum I bought a floor scraper and this basically involves ripping up the surface of the linoleum and then scraping off the stuck paper that is on the wood, preparing the floor for the tiles and then we got the first piece we ordered. For the bathroom, the first big change we are going to make is replacing the old plastic sink. Now we went to the local store and didn't find any we liked, but we went to Lowe's and they have plenty. Among other options we find this great vintage looking sink and the good thing is that it is made of cast iron, which also means that it is super heavy, so to mount it on the wall we have to reinforce the place where it will go so that the wall can withstand the sink weight I found the three studs closest to where the sink should be mounted.

The sink is mounted on these clips, so they must have something sturdy to snap into, but the studs aren't in the right position, so what are we going to do? What we do here is cut a hole in the wall and add a horizontal support that these pieces can go into to support the path to the sink. I marked where the thickness of the 2x4 that we're going to put there is going to be, so I'm actually going to cut a little bit above and below that line so I have enough room to slide the whole board into place and then we'll just put one more piece on it. large piece of drywall over it to cover the opening which is important.

Keep in mind what's on the wall, there's a sewer line right here so you want to make sure there's no electricity or plumbing behind where you're going through a wall. Unfortunately, we've already run into a problem with every drain in a The house must have a vent line that goes all the way to the roof and in this case the vent runs right here through the area we're trying to replace, so we're going to have a little more work to divert this. I started drawing these lines freehand, but it makes a lot more sense to use a ruler to make replacing it easier later and cut these lines along the studs so we have something to attach the new drywall to later. , all good.

The little project we are going to do for the hallway is to make some shelves to stack on top of the washer and dryer. I'm going to have two shelves there. I want them to be super simple with some metal brackets, so basically I just need to make some panels and for that I went to Lowe's and bought some cedar two-by-fours, which are pretty rough on the outside, but I took one side of each of them on the jointer so it was nice and flat and smooth, and once I had that face, I ran it against the fence of the table saw to get the opposite edge completely clean too, so now I have parallel faces on the outside of these boards so I can glue them on a panel, but first I want to cut them.

As for the length, the ends of these are also rough, so I'll start by squaring up the ends nicely. I still have them lined up. I'll just clip them together and then I can cut all three to the same length. at the same time I have these boards arranged to join together into a panel and I have them lined up on the ends. I'm going to make some marks across them and then cut a slot in each of those points with the cookie joiner, now each of those marks has a slot cut out, there's a cookie that will go down into each of them to join the two pieces and that will keep them aligned vertically.

I'm also going to add tons of glue all over this surface so it all sticks into one panel, so I forgot that 2x6 I put on the wall, covered it with the drywall, put some mud on it, did a lot of sanding and a little bit of primer, then a little paint and now it's done. at one point it basically looks like I didn't do anything at all except that wall is now ready to hold the sink so the next thing before we can get the sink on the wall is to paint the bottom, this is a cast iron sink, so the bottom part is not meant to be exposed, it's a little rough, it's inconsistently gray, so we're just going to spray paint it black and before we can do that, we need to mask off the parts that aren't .

I don't want to paint while waiting for the paint to dry in the sink. I went back down because these panels are now completely glued. I have this one. I made a duplicate and made a shorter one to use on the other one. side of the room, but they are basically the same at this point, it's a nice solid panel and I need to clean up the outside faces with the planer, but it's a little too wide, but first I'm going to run them over the table saw got them down to the correct width and then ran them through the planer and left both sides very smooth after they came off the planer.

I sanded everything smooth, including the corners because they were pretty sharp, and now I'm going to finish. For that I'm going to use a couple of layers of polyester to clean. It's time to make the supports go on the outside. These will be made from a single piece of steel cut and bent, and give it a try. To get the angles right, I decided to do it on cardboard first, so I put this piece of cardboard here, figured out the angles and the length of the whole piece. Now I'm going to transfer this to the steel and trim it out.

The corners were cut from this piece, but it actually needs to be folded in two opposite directions, so I'm going to score this piece to thin the material because it's quite thick, so it will bend more easily once we've folded it. I'll go back and weld that corner to make it stronger again. I have them welded and they are now strong enough to hold the shelves, so I will go back with the grinder, smooth all the surfaces and then paint them. black, then I just have to make a bunch more for the rest of the shelves.

I have the shelf panel glued on. I have all the supports finished and painted and now it's time to put them together to have them ready. hang I have the shelf placed on its back on a table, then I am going to install the bracket on the shelf, this will show me where it needs to be located so I can mark the holes and pre-drill them because it will be right at the end of the board and I don't want to risk it to divide it. Now we are ready to place the shelves on top of the washer and dryer.

These will fit in there and we'll space them so they hit the studs both in the corners and down here on the end, we have these long lag screws with a nice black flat head, so we'll put them right on the studs, okay, let's see if I can sit down. it's ready to play hard so for this shorter shelf that's going to go in this corner there's no stud where we need one so we've got some drywall anchors to put in and this particular guy will hold 80 pounds each and I I'm going to have two of them stacked on top of each other and then the other end of the shelf will go on two studs towards the corner.

I've got this where I want it and I've made sure it's level and I'm going to mark these holes because I'm going to have to sink the anchor into the wall. We hang the sink and connect the pipes for the water supply. Now we have to connect the drain. There's a P-trap. It's already just old PVC here, so we're going to replace it with a better looking metal, so we just have to make some connections to connect all of this. I have the drain connected and we are about to test it and I had to do quite a bit on this to get the drain connected to the plumbing in the house.

If you get a sink like this, be prepared to have to adjust from the outlet of your sink to the inlet of your drain system, okay, let's try it. The old cabinets in the room were in perfect condition. They were just outdated, so I sanded every surface on each side so I could paint them. I recently bought a really cool paint sprayer at Lowe's and so I wanted to try it out it worked perfectly and I quickly put primer on them as you can see we have now moved everything out of the room including the washer and dryer and that's because it's Time to lay the tiles.

I'm going to make a little video on how to tile this room, so if you want a lot more detail, be sure to watch it now. The first step here is to completely clean the floor, so this is the subfloor we're going for. to put under the slab and it is an uncoupling membrane which is very good because it separates the slab from the subfloor so if the wood subfloor tends to expand and contract a little bit it won't crack the slab. I found that it's actually easier to roll this upside down because it's easier to cut from this side too, so I'm going to lay the piece out, cut it to size, then turn it over and notch it for the doors.

This uncoupling membrane is called Detra and is from a company called Schluter, this Detra is attached to the subfloor using thinset mortar and then a thinset is placed on top to bond the tile. They also have great instructions on all the details you need to lay this material, how to mix the mortar. what type of mortar to use, so be sure to check them out. I placed the first corner here and I double checked it like you're supposed to to make sure you have enough mortar and you can see here on the parts that it wasn't covered with mortar, that means I need to add a little more.

It's a good way to test in a small corner so you can figure out how much you need to put in before doing everything. It looks much better. a lot more coverage, there are a couple small spots, but that's pretty good now that I have the back corner finished. I have it set up and rolled up the rest of the stuff so I can make a section. a section, lay it down, we can just move down the room, the subfloor is down, it's been loading for about 24 hours, although they say you can leave it right away, we're going to start laying the tile now.

I decided to start at a door. because eventually I want it to interact with the bathroom tiles, so we're going to start with a clean line right here to determine where that line is in relation to the door frame. I'm going to lay down some blue tape and then work from there. If you're laying a geometric mosaic like this, it's very important that you take your time and make sure all the seams and lines are lined up the way you want because those little inaccuracies will compound throughout the room and then what does it start to become? a small distance that's off on one side will turn into a really big distance when you cross the entire room, so take your time and make sure you do it right.

I'm almost done with this room and it's important to remember that. you're laying down tiles to make sure you have an escape plan. I'm working towards a door so I can leave the room. If you get into a corner, you'll have to step over the newly laid tiles. Don't do that after you've laid the tiles and the thin set is done, you can go back and clean the top, you want to remove any thin set that has gotten in to prepare the grout for grouting down. Using a float, a sponge, and plenty of clean water, one of the last little projects to do in the hallway is to make some cubbies.

I made a bench a few weeks ago and one of my videos, and that will be next. At the door and just above the bench there will be these little cubicles. These are really simple boxes. I already broke some pieces of cedar. I'm going to do theseboxes with those cedar panels using glue and nails to hold them in place. together and then we will add some details and hang them on the wall. I already made the boxes and cut some other pieces to go inside. Here one will go along the bottom at the back and then the other.

These are for the cleat system. This is a single piece, divided into two pieces at a 45 degree angle, one of them will go here and the other will go on the wall, so you can put this whole box on that slat on the wall and it will hang there so that it is removable if you want, so we're just going to glue them in place, draw a couple of triangles on some contact paper to use it as a template and just take it off and stick it to a piece of cedar, then cut it out with a jigsaw.

I didn't have to be very exact with this, it was just to get a general shape. I used the first one as a model. template to cut two more and then glued all three together in one block. These didn't have to be perfectly aligned because after gluing them I took them to the belt sander to get all the sides flat. I have this. The old triangle is over and this is a detail added to the bottom of the cubicle, so both cubicles will sit on top of the bench to look like two speech bubbles, as if there is a conversation going on.

The last step here is I put a panel on the inside of the back so that we can write a few words in each of the speech books for the back panels of these boxes. I used a dry erase board and cut it to fit snugly, the plan was to put vinyl letters on it but we could always draw on it with markers too, we needed to hang some things under this shelf so I made more brackets to go in here and I used the same screw holes, just stuck the screws in there and then 3D printed some parts to hold a peg.

One of the most useful things about a

mudroom

is having a place to take off your shoes, but also to hang your jacket and backpack when you come home, so to hang those things we made a simple hanging bar just cut a cedar one by four, added a chamfer to the edge and then made a quick little jig to drill a bunch of 45 degree angled holes. These holes are large enough to hold these pegs, so we'll slide them in. Stick them in place and then mount them on the wall. I have a couple coats of polyurethane on each of these, so now it's time to put them on the wall.

I'm just going to screw them to the studs and I've got the studs marked where they should go. I'm going to drive in some screws now the screw heads will be visible, but you can always fill them in with a little wood filler to cover them. We have these. The cabinets went back into place and we painted them with Valspar furniture paint. I've painted cabinets before and didn't get a great surface finish but this actually gave a really nice finish even when we had to use a roller to touch things up so I'll link it in the description along with all the other hardware and materials and everything what we used for this entire room, so the last thing is to put in some new hardware and then put the top back in place.

This bench is the last thing to enter this room. I did this in a video a couple of weeks ago, so if you haven't seen this, go check it out, but now that it's here, this room is finished, so it's completely finished and we're. very very happy with the result we have tons of places to hang things we have a place to sit and take off our boots we have a ton of storage a new sink is pretty impressive and was from 1983 to super modern and clean all because Lowe's sponsored this video. Thanks to them, we have links to all the accessories, tools, materials and everything we got from Lowe's in the description.

I'd love to know what you think. about this renewal, let me know in the comments. I have many other videos of different types of projects that you can check out there and don't forget to subscribe, that's all guys, thanks for watching, see you around. Next time, as you can see, we will have a poster with wallpaper around the rented vessel, through the edge of paper that runs around the cross, burst and the room is finally finished, we are thick, thick.