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How to make Boba Fett Armor (Step by Step Guide) Part 1b

Jun 06, 2021
this time on prop master we're going to keep it pretty simple, basically I still desperately need you to tell everyone you can think of about this channel including social media and you know, even related YouTube videos show up in the comments and talk about the topic. channel, let's see if we can drive a little more traffic to this channel beyond that. We're going to pick things up today right where we left off before, and if you remember, we're going to talk about using the rotary tool to straighten your phone, so let's get to it, so if only there was one power tool that I think you should get if You're going to work fine with foam, it would probably be a heat gun, but if you had to use power tools alone I would say a rotary tool is your best friend.
how to make boba fett armor step by step guide part 1b
You can find rotary tools. You can spend a lot of money on rotary tools or you can get one that is actually very inexpensive. I've seen them $25 $30 without any problems. You can find them. They are cheaper than that, even places like Harbor Freight Walmart may even have some cheaper. The rotary tools thing seems to cost more money, since it seems like they give you what are these kits that let you know a thousand different

part

s, most of which you will never use, so I suggest you buy one with the least variety of bits and then you can go to the hardware store and buy one or a couple of bits that you're actually going to use.
how to make boba fett armor step by step guide part 1b

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how to make boba fett armor step by step guide part 1b...

I have this with this extension. for a small pin accessory, then you don't have to do that. I use it quite a bit, so I have this little extension that

make

s it a little easier for fine details, but you don't need to understand it, you'll want to get this. a bit is the tapered sanding bit and what you don't want is the drum because the outside edge of the drum tends to put up lines that you know when you touch it it's going to dig into the foam so you really want to use this taper to have a rounded surface .
how to make boba fett armor step by step guide part 1b
It's just a little bit of sanding here, you know, a tapered woodworking sanding bit and it works really well for this foam, so the important thing with this is to always move in the direction that it's turning. in this direction, so you want to pull the bit in that direction, and if you try to go back in this direction, it's really good, and when you try to dig into the foam you'll get a really uneven surface, it'll be, you know, a little wavy. , but If you go this direction, it won't stick at all and you can have really good control and you can really do a good job of putting that shape.
how to make boba fett armor step by step guide part 1b
Now that we have this, the basic shape

make

s them use something thin. sharpening, but now we want to go ahead and round all of these edges so they're not just jagged, don't worry about these things here, but you know, here, in this area, go ahead and remove everything. Those corners will be much easier with the Dremel tool than if we use the sanding sticks, but you can definitely do it with the sanding sticks. If you have trouble with some of these tighter areas, you can always do that instead of using paint. Stirring rods, you can get a dowel and do the same process.
You know you're going to have to cut the strips beforehand, but then you can wrap them around the dowel that way, you can get several curved surfaces here and they were actually fine. in really small areas like that now we all say: I'll say this when you get to the corners, it's unlikely that the sanding stick you'd want to go in the direction towards the edge that way so as not to break the tip too much because the way these they turn, you don't want to do that because it's going to grab, and in the end they don't pull you down or up very sharply, so you actually want to come in from that corner.
I'm going to clip it to Do this, it just shows that you remove the really sharp edges. Okay, now the next

step

we're going to go back to the sanding sticks and our course 1 and we have this line right here and basically the first

step

is we want to put a bevel here that goes from this line down, not all the way to the edge, but up to, I don't know, maybe half this width, so we'll lower the bevel to about half this total depth and I guess I'm going to have to change cameras again or change camera angles again, this will be a shallower angle , don't go in at 45 degrees because we just have to go down, you know a little bit, but we have to go down, you know quite a bit here or I'm not down, but you know quite a distance here, so it's a much shallower angle.
You use the different layers here to help you judge that you're coming in at a uniform angle if you have this little line that shows the boundary between the two layers, if it's just barely on the edge here, but you actually know that you're way up, that means that you have gone down much more on this side than on this side as you see here. it's cute and it's really cute and even on the other side so we're doing a good job. I'm going to go ahead and start some kind of kingdom. I don't want to be straight and then an angle and then straight, so I'm just going to round this all down a little bit, as you can see, it now tapers out quite nicely, so now what I want to do is put an angle instead of ninety. degrees here.
I want this to curve quite dramatically, that's right. it's not an angle at all, not even an angle with a rounded corner, we want this to be a curve from here to about the same distance here and that's a little hard for me to explain, but you'll see, watch out for your little ones Sharp edges. here, go in that direction, push towards them, it doesn't have to be a specific perfect size, that's why we didn't make lines or anything. He just wanted it to be a nice curve, going about the same distance as thick. Which is the end?
I can't explain it very well, but you'll see. I'm starting with kind of flat here and then curving up to where I'm flat there just to work that curve into the foam. I know I have to I'm just rounding off any weird edges that I have between this radius and this is this bevel on this radius you want it to have a nice organic shape and not have any weird sharp edges or like we're almost there, but I can show you here very easily, there you have it and then once we have it, we'll do the same thing on this side and I'll use the Dremel to show you that this is not exactly what it is. a slightly smaller radius than this, but again there is no set.
I'm having difficulty with the camera this time, once again there is no set. It has to be just making it look good like before because it's spinning. we want and it's turning in this direction we're at the top away from us we want to go towards this corner you can see where I'm taking those little corners and I'm bringing them into Photoshop little radius you, so I'm going To do the same thing that I did here, I I will do this side. You can do it with the sanding stick. Spencer has really been easier with this.
I would recommend using a dowel if you are going to do this with sanding. The button on the sticks makes the sanding peg look pretty cool. I'll probably go over it just to clean up the rough edges. If you are using the sanding sticks, go through all the different ones down to the finest one so that it is as smooth as possible. What I'm doing here is basically trying to like before I smooth it out on the edges, do it all in a smooth way, any edge of these foam pieces is bigger than this bottom foam piece, but definitely, to fix that, make sure As long as everything is a unified size, it looks pretty good, we'll have plenty of other opportunities to do a little more, as you can see on my hands, there's quite a bit of fine rubber dust or Evie dust, so make sure you wear a dust mask when do this, but I think at this point we are ready to move on to the next level or the next step anyway, once you finish shaping your piece, it's time to turn it into an actual knee pad or

armor

piece and to make that we need to be much stiffer than we can actually do with this foam alone, so what I have here is just a flat bar of aluminum.
I got this at Home Depot, you can get it pretty. At almost any hardware or big box home store, it is one-eighth of an inch thick by three-quarters of an inch. I guess it's about three millimeters by 18 millimeters, something like that, and what you want to do is measure, turn it over and measure your length from here to the end here and then take off an inch for each side and then go ahead and cut that, that's what I have here, that way it can continue here and there's still a lot of past material so you won't see it. the aluminum sticks out of it and it's a good idea to go ahead and just use my finer sanding stick and just remove everything you know, hit the sharp edges.
What I like about aluminum is that it is very easy to work with. You're going to have to do this

part

. I can't really give you any shortcuts or anything like that and all I'm going to do is look here. You just want to mark the areas where you and the sexual pieces are. You can sit on this one, basically you want to know it's a gentle curve, but not too much for that width and then with a good radius, you want to make a 90 degree turn here on both sides, so before you bend the aluminum, place it. top of your piece and make sure you may have to manipulate your foam or fold the foam until you have a fairly even amount of foam on top; in other words, if I just put this on top, you can see it's almost touching here and you know it's got quite a bit there, you know a quarter of an inch and then you know it's touching a lot here, so you want to fold it over so it's pretty even, right? it is perfect?
I want to be, you know, I'm even going to go ahead and draw an outline so I know exactly where this is going to go. Well, now I know exactly where the bar will go and that's why I usually do it. you move back and forth on the aluminum making only small containers, if you go too far you can just bend it back a little, do this until you get a nice smooth curve, it doesn't have to be much now. I'm going to start the harder the curve the more dramatic it can get a little harder to bend this as you run out of material here and I think this is one of the easiest ways to do it you can use a vise or if Just work on it this way enough, you will, but a wrench works pretty well.
You just want to move the wrench as you bend it so you know, give it a little bit of a curve here, a little bit of a curve. here, a little curve here until you get a nice curve. Let's start a little bit on the inside of the line, just take a look at it from time to time and you can see that it's a little bit more pronounced. Double here than it is here. get a little more curve in this front section, it's starting to look pretty good now that I have the basic shape. I'm going to put this against my knee and I can see that it's too wide, so I need to bend it more, this needs to be a more rounded angle here, okay and that actually fits quite well.
Now I can see that it's actually touching here on the sides, this is going to straighten out a little bit, so I'm going to bend it. just a little longer so it stays there. I mean, you're always going to have these spaces on either side of the kneecap, but you want it to touch the sides, so I've got that and I'm going to move on. and straighten them out, that looks pretty good, it's got a flat curve here and then these come back and touch the sides of my knee, it's tight, but you know there's something that you know doesn't pinch or anything, and that's what we do .
I'm looking. I'm still going to play with this a little bit just to even it out. I'm not going to change the size anymore. I'm just going to work with this to make it more symmetrical. way, it's not like that, it would be perfect and that seems pretty good to me. A quick little check and yes it still fits my knee well so go ahead and stick this on now aluminum is not porous so I'm going to do my first layer on the foam alone and then the second layer I'll put it on on the foam and a layer on the aluminum.
Second layer. Typical, I'm not wearing gloves and I really need to wear gloves. Okay, ten minutes. Well, everything is visible. Well, let's go ahead and paste this. I'm using my lines as a

guide

and I'm going to go ahead and make sure I stay within the lines that I drew, okay, so just make sure it's nice and there. see, so there's just one last thing we need to do before we can declare this is done and we have the curve like this, but if you notice it's a little bit flat here at the end and we need to go ahead and induce a nice curve this way and also at the end down here, so we're just going to go ahead and go back to our heat gun now, make sure not to get the heat anywhere near where we just stuck this because unless it's been You know, two three hours since you glued this on, that glue will just come off if you hit it with a heat gun, so keep the heat low in this area.
Here the notice is starting to change color now, so I know it's pretty. You are ready at this point. Can you give it a little on the back? It may not be the way to wear gloves for this part if you don't have asbestos hands. I'm used to using it around the doorknob. There are other things you can use. get little plastic spheres and at many art supply stores, it should be, you know, about a two-dimensional sphere.inches in diameter. Make sure you use a doorknob like I do, which in my opinion is probably the cheapest and easiest way to do it, make sure you don't.
I don't have a keyhole and I make sure it's completely spherical, it's not one of those that has a flat end and in fact, for this particular purpose, your knee works very well, you know, put this on your knee and give it a shape your knee and it will work well. Okay, now we have a nice curve like this, it looks round from this angle, but it definitely has more curve here and this is done for this part of the process. There we have our right and left knee

armor

, then I. If you want, go back to the fly, you can go ahead and do the whole fly in one go, you don't have to split it.
I just wanted to do it. Well, I was kind of putting the pieces together. Go ahead and do all that first. This looks pretty good, but you can see there are a few things here, there are some areas where the foam doesn't quite line up, so I'd like to fix that so it's a little square at this point, so I'm going to go ahead and take the heat gun and try to give this a more round shape. Just hang the tip of this right here and by doing the knee pads in the middle, this has had enough time for that Barsad minute to cure, so the heat guns are not going to affect it and I'm just with my fingers, you can also use the door knob and I'm basically pushing in to stretch the foam a little bit and I'm just trying to make this more curved, okay and now we can continue sanding this.
I have my coarser sanding stick and what I'm doing is basically I don't want this to be a sharp edge right here. I just want to round this out. Fully try to make this so organic that it flows from one edge to the other, just remember that this is only this thick so if you sand too much it will stay straight, don't do that and for these pieces here I want to write for example, of those two where they're smooth with this other one so just one place where you really see what I'm doing until it blends really well now the same thing here now I'm not pressing down I don't want to cut this foam here I'm just pressing down already you know, this way, okay, that's nice and smooth too, okay, what we want to do is make this instead of two pieces, you know, we look like two pieces. of foam glue together, we just want to make that smooth surface and depress, let's go ahead and remove this corner and round it off now, when you're done with this, if you decide that this is too straight, you can continue.
Go ahead and hit it with the heat gun again and you know, if you've curved it a little bit more that shouldn't be a problem, you won't really see this so it's more about how comfortable it is of course if you have your Dremel. You can also use it now that we've basically shaped it the way we want, it's time to remove all these scratches and pits and that kind of stuff and go over it two more times with the other two grades of sandpaper. sticks until we can smooth it out a little better everything looks pretty smooth now so now you want to go over the rest basically and just remove this sharp edge if you have some jagged spots here you could I want to round that off but pregnant you're mainly worried remove this sharp edge, even these pieces here using your sanding sticks or the Dremel, whatever you're most comfortable with sanding sticks with.
I wouldn't use the thickest one for this. I would just go with your medium and well, you don't want to remove a lot of material, you just know I'm going to remove this kind of sharp edge, so that's pretty good, it won't take much with the light that's already there. pretty smooth for these pieces, basically you try to line this up and then tilt it, just use your middle or you can also try it on the side, sharpen there and then just remove the sharp edge, you get these scratches like that, don't worry about that and Of course, you can Sand it fine or you just know it's Boba Fett's armor, it's going to have scratches and then we've got a lot of layers of paint and stuff put in here that's going to cover up any little imperfections and just do that for the rest of the thing, okay, that's it.
It smoothes out now and looks pretty good, so the good news is that we have now completed the two most complicated parts of the armor and that is the fly and the knee armor. The bad new. is that now we have to go through all the other pieces of the armor and remove all those corners and if you didn't sand the back we have to remove those sharp edged corners and remove that pattern from the same edge, so maybe half an inch around we want remove that pattern from the inside of the armor once again, just use the start with the middle and then go to the fine, just remove the sharp edge if you have to start here, take that too, just round it off slightly.
Think of this as time to meditate. A part is missing. All that to do. It is not necessary to see how everything is done. This is going to be a bit monotonous even at high speed. So I will be. When I finish removing the edges of all of this, okay, so after a good amount of work and generating quite a bit of dust, we finally have all of these edges nice and smooth so we can move on to shaping them, but before you do that, let's move on and I wanted to go ahead and just show you if you didn't sand this pattern from the back of everything.
I want to go ahead and get into what you need to do for all of these parts, it's very similar to what you do with the four, you just need to remove about a half inch to a full inch of this pattern around the outside of this piece and you do it like this. so you know we've done almost everything else. set the camera on the other side, you would know that you don't want to sand this too fine, but you do want to eliminate this pattern here. There is something like that that is good enough, what you are trying to avoid. is being able to see the side of the piece and of course with this lighting it's hard to tell, but you want to avoid that when you have the finished armor you can see that the bottom of this is like some kind of wave. line or if it comes off, you don't want to see any of this pattern at all, so if you can remove it, you'll know about a half inch around all your pieces, that way you know you'll lose that.
The look here is one of my previous prototypes in the clean parts and you can see how I just removed that pattern from the edgeless pieces, okay, let's start shaping it with the fly piece and the armor belt piece and to the fly is all we have. What I really want to do is give a little bit of a curve to these little arms here on the belt part and we're also going to do that for the back armor piece, but then we're also going to put a curve in, you know this. there too and we'll do it the same way we've done it, you know, all the other ways, we'll use the heat gun, we'll just heat everything up and then we can bend it to our will, let's start with the fly itself, then I'm basically going to hold this like it's on my body to get the curve I want you can do the same on the body shape if you want most of the time this is way below your body shape it doesn't have to be exact , you just wanted to have kind of a basic outline, okay, once it cools, it's the shape you want and I'm I'll just repeat the process on the other side.
Needless to say, you want to make sure at least three hours have passed since you pasted this piece, I'm not sure if the sadness came from there, but sometimes you just have to make something up. words and once again I'm just going to hold it in position on my body, you don't want to force it to deform too much, you just want to, you know, gently hold it against your body to get the correct position. radio I guess you know you don't want to lift this part too. You know where you get a will be your grinko around here or something like that.
You want to keep it. You know its shape just bends like this and then when. When it cools, you'll have the basic shape, so that piece is pretty simple. October. Now you can see that if I go a little bit slower or if I back up, it's going to create one of those dark areas, so clearly we're hot enough and we're doing the same basic things that I do, I'm just going to hold this slightly in my you know. Where will your bell be? In fact, you don't even have to do that, you can just, you know, give it a general curve shape.
It's not going to be so rigid that you can't, you know, make it fit, so that's pretty good. What you probably have now is that this is basically the exact opposite shape of what I want. In fact, I want it to turn off so it can warm up again. mainly just this most central area and I'm going to use my little sphere again and it's definitely hot, you might want to wear gloves now, you can always say, you can also put this in a vise and you know, push it down like this. that's what I normally do, but you can just as easily hold it in your hand and push it that way you can tell that it gets hot enough because it will get very soft.
I'm just eating it a little, okay? come on so we have kind of a disk shape here maybe a little too extreme but it will flatten out and then we also do the curve here so now this can go along the back for the next part you can use your body. shape or your DVDs, you don't just know the precedent because your own body you just want to get the basic contour shape for your chest pieces and unfortunately, I made my body shape in a different way than I showed you in a previous . video and it's pretty distorted and I'm going to go ahead and try to use it normally now.
I would suggest that you put the bulletproof vest on your doll. I'm not going to do that because when I was prototyping I decided I was going to use these point-raising snapshots which I thought were very military and I had a bunch of them, as it turned out that wasn't the way to go, definitely not. would suggest and now that I have all of these on the bulletproof vest it will make it very difficult to shape your armor pieces using that because you will leave bumps everywhere so your case since you haven't done it yet go ahead and put the bulletproof vest on your body. or go ahead and put it on if you're good and mold it to your body and like before they warm up in the same process and you put it on very quickly, once you're nice and warm you want to go ahead and just put it on. put it into position, make sure you find the center and then just gently press it into position to make it the right shape, don't press hard, it will leave fingerprints on it, so this guy gently holds it to the right shape, it's okay and for this piece I just want to line it up where it goes, it's weird because I'm going to distort things now, but okay, now notice I haven't cut them, you want to make sure you shape this. correct shape before cutting because otherwise they will distort when stretched to the correct shape.
Now we'll say this after forming your piece if you end up with something that you know maybe has an odd shape. or it's not very smooth, go ahead and smooth that out because you want to stay in the right shape, but at the same time you don't want any weird containers or anything like that, you want to go ahead and smooth it out. First, take it out so it has more of an armor feel. This piece would be kind of a curve that you wouldn't see as anything like that on it, so try to smooth everything out into a nice, even shape. and I think you get the idea, you just want to repeat this with all the pieces, this one you want to make sure you know the nice curve here, you want to make sure it lines up with the top of your shoulder. or the shoulder of the forum itself, maybe a little bit further if you can, okay, so you can see I have a nice curve here, it also has a little bit of a curve this way right now, I have a flat area a little strange right there, so I can go ahead and stretch it out a little bit with my thumb, that should look good like this, but in this case we want to make sure that we have a nice curve like this and then also a nice curve like this, nothing. too extreme, this is going to be more or less, you know, almost flat, but you want to get a little bit of those shapes, so here's this piece, we have a little bit of curve that way, a little bit of curve this way, No.
What a shame, and you know the bike has that compound curve that makes it much stiffer. You definitely wouldn't want to leave it completely flat because then it would be very flimsy, just having those curves there makes it much more rigid. Okay, for the shoulder armor pieces, you'll want something that's cylindrical, you know, about four inches wide, if you can't find it, this is an old propane tank, if you can't find it, or a PVC pipe. , or you know. something that's really that size, you know, you can always do it, do it roughly on your arm, you want to fold this from here, you're going to fold this from here to here, you know, along this size, so first we're going to follow go ahead and warm up. this with the heat gun and then we will do the molding, okay, lift this part up.
I'm really just going to hold this down and there so this part is loose back here, like if you want to, you can just.use this back part here also gently hold this part, don't push, don't press down so hard that you transfer any texture that you know from here to your foam, I just want to gently hold that shape until it cools and now that I've got that, I'm just going to roughly heat this area right here, okay, I'm just going to use this diet coke can to form the bottom, this should cool down pretty quickly because the cans are just going to have a cooler, okay, so we put it in there on a softer curve here at the top, you know, I'm going to heat up this area here, but what you want to do is have a softer curve here and then a sharper curve on these edges and do the same thing here once you have the basic shape, then I'll probably give it one last little bit of heat and just kind of level everything out as best I can shouldn't we level everything out I don't want these little tips to curl up too much what I'm doing now is just pushing my finger behind this line and then put these two fingers and a kind of mr.
Lee, make a more dramatic change along that axis for that line once you understand that I can always go back to make it a little less severe. Right now it's very severe there, but I can forget where it's quite symmetrical once I piece it. goes in the bulletproof vest it will take the right shape it's a little more than I want right now but it's probably better than if it wasn't enough okay, repeat the process here okay, we have these pieces here, make him see You would have to heat it up so much because it won't we are doing a lot.
I'm just giving it a little curvature. See, there's a little curvature now that you're warmed up and confident. your skills we can go ahead and work on the back, it's the most complicated as far as bending everything, but it's actually not that difficult, all we're really going to do is do it very smoothly, well, we're going to have a very smooth bend starting with this line here and moving outwards. You don't want to try to fold it here. Once we get that, we'll go ahead and put a more extreme curvature down here. Blue. Same on this side.
We're going to make a gentle upward curve here and then at the end we'll make a nice little curve in this area and widen it out. It sounds like a lot, but it's really not, we're just taking it. The best thing is that I'm supporting the weight of the foam with just this edge and that will give it a nice curve. We are not looking for much, a little more heat. It looks pretty good. You need to be careful. this starts to blow up, it's going to start to make it very difficult for you to get this curve there now.
I'm going to work on making this curve a little bit more, you're getting it and no, it's really extreme right now, but once we get everything on your back and you know it's going to hold up, it's going to have good form at that point. I'm pretty much just heating from this edge on the bottom of this curved part, this edge up and angled towards the edge here even with little snips, so you can basically get that area if you want, you can use a dowel or a dowel or a PVC pipe or anything that's round just to help with that curve, but it's not necessary, I'm just going to heat this up and try to give it more curve, so now I'm just heating up this line, basically I'm going to try to use my fingers just to try to get a little bit of an edge, let's heat it up a little bit and I like it.
I've done it before, I'm just putting one finger underneath and then two fingers on top just trying to force the edge a little bit more, really the same on this side, if you wanted, I guess you could use your pattern to cut out a piece. of wood and then you could lay it flat here, use it to keep it flat and then pull the edges up, but I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible, but that would be a really good way to do it, so if you cut a piece of wood using your pattern in this way, you know, following this part of the pattern, then you could just place it, pick this up, place it and then lift everything around that piece of wood and that would give you a nice sharp edge, but it's not necessary and As I said, I'm trying to keep this as simple and uncomplicated as possible.
Well, on this Lisa, this is too extreme, but once we start putting everything in its place, everything will be fine. we have our kind of soft curve and this soft curve in this area here flat here it starts to curve here extreme curve on this little part of the wing now we're going to induce a little curve in this direction with this top part and I'm just going here, it's flat . I'm going to lift this part up, so basically I'm just using his weight and a little bit of you know I'm pushing down with my, you can't really see it, but you know.
I can push it down a little bit with my hand so that as it cools, we have this nice curve and now that I have it, I'm going to put the exact opposite here. Widen this part like this, this is the part where your neck will be, so you know you don't want that to cut into the back of your neck, it will flirt like this, I want to keep my heat right in this. The soft pressure area with this that you don't want to dig your fingers into is that if you press down hard you'll actually get little dents where your fingers are pushing in and I'm mostly pushing up and right in the middle so I can keep this curve in this shape here.
I'll be honest with you. He probably has. I've done this several times and probably haven't done it the same way at any time. The good news is that if you know, you're wrong. You simply heat it and give it a new shape. It's just using this gently. I'm trying to stretch this entire little section so it holds its shape a little better. Now what I'm doing is making a cup. with my hand this was very difficult to film yeah you have this shape then turn the shape so I cut my hand off and cover it with a cupped hand and then I can push you in with this which will probably be the most effective way . to do it when this would probably work better if you had this and a tip mounted and pressed it down.
I could probably set it up so you can see it so you can see we're pretty close to being there as it's like finding an angle where you can actually see it well this is pretty close to what we want and this is what I just did , you know, holding the doorknob in my hand, but I just wanted to show you, you know, an alternative method. so I just mounted them on the vase. I know it's in the vase and the vise as it's a little flimsy, that's just because it's a doorknob, it's actually secured well, let's warm it up nice and I can, you know, give it a little bit of pressure. you can see because of a bulge here where it is.
I just want to pass it along the area I want to expand. You know, I'm just going to warm up this little upper lip area. I'm just pushing this little lip area against the doorknob. I'm just going to force a little bit of curvature outward, it's not there yet, now that we're getting it. I think it's just a matter of working until you get it. the shape you're going for, I think for this part I'm just going to keep the lip in place while I try to style the rest a little bit more, okay, now we're getting it so The idea is to make this area pop out from the rest and then it widens like this and forms a curve that fits around your neck like this and I think we essentially have it similar to before it was running.
My fingers here I'm trying to draw a little bit of a line, okay, I like it, so all we have left now is to heat up these areas and I'm going to push this up and that. It's going to be a little extreme right now, but we'll come back in a moment and deal with that. Do the same here. Okay, I said this is really extreme right now, but we'll be able to do it once we get it into this basic shape. I can go ahead and move it and stick it in position so they remember where once you heat it up and mold it into the shape you want, it remembers where it is.
I don't have to heat it. Now I can rework this curve. I'm just pulling it and turning it and it's back and there you have it the basic components of the Bubba fence armor. Now there is still a lot of work to do. Finish this off nicely, but in a pinch you could just spray it with Plasti Dip, paint it however you want, and hot glue it to a training suit or jumpsuit and you would have a passable costume, but we can and will do better than that. in the next few videos, so with that in mind, go ahead and subscribe if you haven't already.
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