How to Make: A Desert Base

I'm back with another video, this time my first

base

video on how to

make

a

base

in the

desert

. Okay, so we're using the buggy base just to have more room to work with. You will need some Elmer's glue. You can see that I have I have my little sand mixture here to start and I'm using my handy GWS tool, so I put on some Elmer's glue. This is something I'm going to spread. I add the glue and then the sand before doing the crackle effect to give a sort of texture variation. I think, especially on a large base like this, it can get a little monotonous if everything has a similar texture, so this gives some distinction between two regions like the crackle piece and this sandy one. sandy piece so you can see.

I just sprinkled some of the sand mixture. Different grains have a couple of big pieces in there. I shook it. I'm going to let it dry. You can see, let it dry completely so that it hardens now next to the agrarian soil this is the GW primer, they are really great. I've always had great success with this one, this specific one, I don't use it for coloring, but I do use it for a texture effect, so you can see, I carry it. It applies a lot to the base and the interesting thing about this base paint is that you can control the depth of the crackle based on the depth of the paint, so the thicker the paint you leave there, the thicker the crackle will be and the thinner it will be. . area, the smaller and tinier the crackle will be and again, if you vary the depth of the crackle so you can see that in some spots here it's a lot thicker and in some spots a lot thinner, you can even go back and thin it out yourself, but If you add that variation, you also have a real variation in the crackle, so it was left to dry completely overnight and you can really see the difference here is the big oak, you know, the little crackles there and the big crackles here are just from the depth of the paint, all good, so we quickly primed it with Vallejo black primer and going in with the xandrie powder, I took a very stiff bristle brush and really stabbed the base color into all those nooks and crannies, This was just the starting point.

Alright, I'm in with Doom Bowl Brown. All the parts I put in with the sand will end up being that Doom Bowl Brown. I'm using an airbrush, but I'll quickly show you how you can do it. a brush is fine too, so like I said, if you don't have the airbrush, take your destiny, Brown will take yours and read to us. All of this goes under washes and under dry brushing. Say this is a good time to practice your wet mixing if you don't have the airbrush, you take out the colors and start mixing with your brush bringing the two colors together, you can see you just gently pull one color into the other, take a little bit of another color and exactly that is that wet mixture while the paint is still wet so let's go back to the airbrush again this can be done with a brush but I'm using an airbrush here like the middle regions the flatter regions I like

make

in the breast, the Shanti bone, a lighter color. while I leave some of the Xandra powder still showing, this again creates that contrast in the base and this is that kind of natural color variation, so I went in with the old AG Rex worker shade.

I ended up just soaking this thing in with some Ag Rex, I probably ended up going too heavy with the glue and the AG rex on the sandy parts. I think I lost some of the really nice texture that can be created. In fact, you can see it here, like the wash. It kind of builds up a little in the sandy areas, too much. I could have removed a little of that and like I said if I wasn't too liberal with the glue it might work better so it's time for dry brushing first. The step is Andrew's dust.

I have a big, soft, dry brush here to remove most of the paint and work in kind of soft circles and just gently build up the color and dry brush some of those highlighted parts and then go in with the screams. skull, the screaming skull is going to be a lot softer, you're going to try to pick out some of the higher areas and that's going to give that real pop to the more prominent bits, we're looking nice. Okay, but I just wanted to select the rocks with a little bit of Reckling's flesh tone. This isn't dramatic, but it helps distinguish some of the larger elements.

This is always the important step, just cleaning the edge. the foundation and lastly, I've been playing around with these pigments a lot more. This is the Vallejo

desert

pigment that brings back some of that lighter color and produces some of that dusty effect and again gives more of a color variation in the base and I think that kind of dusty desert II effect comes true with the pigments and this is one of my favorites, this amber color is really a kind of intense red-brown brown that provides a small, very faint detail. areas here kind of tone down in color in a couple of places looks pretty good here I think you know, near the end you can work back and forth the colors, the last step is I have some grass Tufts of dead grass Strands from the world of green things I usually glue them together.

I wasn't too sure of the position so I just stuck them together very gently just to take a couple of photos, but there you have it, a nice arid desert base, this is pretty much the approach. which I base all my orcs on desert sand and this is the kind of thing I've been working on for the new work buggies, thanks everyone, so as always follow me on Instagram at Quarter paint and give me Like, subscribe and everything. those things thank you