How To Install Shingles #2 Getting Started

Hi, I'm Shannon from House Improvements.com. In today's video I just want to show you how to basically get

started

with a roofing project, so this video is going to cover how to get

started

with laying foundation, which in our case we are. using a grip guard or ice and water protection, whichever you prefer, as well as putting down the starter strip and the first row of

shingles

, so obviously we've already taken the roof off, as you can see, you can check out our other video envelope with peel angles and we've gone around and made sure all the nails are hammered in and nothing is sticking out, all the boards are tight and solid, there's no rot, so basically we have the roof prepped, we're ready to go.

shingles

uh depending on the type of shingles you're using, some manufacturers don't recommend shingling a roof that has individual boards with gaps like this, they may recommend that you sheet the entire roof right above this well or rip this up.

Take it off and put it back or cover this with 7/16 or 38 plywood. In this case, I'm not too worried about it, the space is minimal and I've already done the other side of this roof, four. or five years and there haven't been any problems, so just double check with your manufacturer, they may void your warranty, so keep in mind that if you decide to go ahead like I'm doing, without covering it, you can avoid it. your warranty is fine so the roof is prepped we have some of the ice protection deployed so we are in this corner ready to go basically what we want to do before we start is what we want to do.

install

a drip edge on this Edge now I'm reusing the existing one here just because it was in good condition.

If you're adding a new one, basically all you want to do is go along the Eve edge of your roof with this. aluminum drip edge in whatever color you decide to choose and simply

install

it with a few shingles. Nails holding it in, okay, it's not rocket science, just put it in there, don't worry, you need it on that edge as well on the end of the rake, but uh, we're not going to worry about that right now. I'll get to that a little bit further down okay, so once we have that, we want to measure our grip guard material and at each end of the roof I want to measure one measurement relative to the width of your grip guard so we can plot a straight line so that the grip guard runs straight.

Your Eve here is probably not straight. Well, you want your grip guard to be on this metal. Sure, I try not to have it hanging because it looks bad, the shingles we'll be hanging on, but the grip guard I don't, so just make sure the grip guard seals onto this metal at least an inch when you put it on. . determine the height of that line, okay, then cut that line as a straight guide, uh, put your grip guard up there, turn your grip guard outward relative to that line, now the grip guard is basically a eve protection and in this case this is helping with ice dams and that sort of thing now depending on where in the world you are that might not be a problem for you you might be able to use a felt for 15 lb roofs for the entire roof in this area, there is an issue with possible ice buildup and, uh, that's a completely different thing.

I'm not going to go into the explanation of that, but it's basically just water and snow that freezes, melts, freezes and melts and works its way back up the shingles, so this is just an extra layer of protection for prevent that from coming into the house in my area here, this edge of that material needs to be 12 inches inside the exterior wall W below, so it would actually be inside the house line and, uh, because we're a a little bit lower slope here, we're actually going to do a second row to have 24 inches inside that wall, okay, so basically we have about a 12 to 24 inch overhang on our roof here, so my wall inside of the house is the exterior wall.

This is somewhere below this area, so we're just trying to have 12 Ines inside that and in my case 24, so we'll use a second row of this once we get right down to it, so this material is very similar to a tile You know, it has the same kind of makeup as a tile, but it has this backing on the back that you can see here that we peel off as we go to help it stick once the sun sets there for a couple of days. I'll just paste it. I'm going to attach it directly to the plywood or the boards that you have here for your roof, so I'm going to spread this out and use something weird.

I have my stapler. using a weird staple on it just to keep it in place about until it sticks obviously once we cover it that's all that's going to hold it down as well this material also when you cover it with shingles and obviously you drill it with some holes, it closes around those nails in case anyone is wondering why bother if we're just going to drill it full of a thousand holes, but it kind of self-seals, so I'm just going to roll this out for a little while here I have my line here I know you can't see I'm trying to keep this straight keep as many wrinkles as I can we have this backing It started, it's basically split in half so you have a top edge and a back edge to take out something else that you might have Noticed that I look over my shoulder and always know where the edge of the roof is.

It's so you don't fall, uh, you always have to be more resistant to that, okay, so let's lower it. If it were warmer today, that would seal pretty well right away, we're just putting in some staples. on this Edge just to address it, it's a little breezy today and I don't want the wind to rip it off from us. I'm going to remove it completely and go back and look for the bottom edge, if you go a little off this line don't worry too much but try to stay as close to it as possible, this will help keep everything nice and straight, look up back and make sure you don't have a whole. a lot of wrinkles those wrinkles will show through the shingles even once you're done if it's really wrinkled get rid of it now at the bottom we have the same thing I mentioned about hitting all the nails. the roof at the beginning of the video and part of this is when you're pulling the plastic out, they catch on anything that's sticking out, so if you can get them down, I really feel like I've got something underneath.

There's an old nail under there, okay, so we just had an old nail that had popped out under that membrane, we glued it down. I'm going to throw some staples along this end too, okay, just to keep the wind from coming in underneath. I'm not too worried about down here, it'll stick to that metal pretty quickly once the sun comes up and we'll have a starting line down there too anyway. Well, we've already got that started. and the next thing you want to do is basically start with the shingles, in fact before we start, I'm going to talk about this drip edge on the side of the roof.

Wow, so we have a gable roof here. so we need a piece of this drip edge, this is the material here, okay, you'll notice I'm using two different ones. I have a little different one here that I can get in my area, you may not be able to. to get that look, so you could use this all the way around, that's okay now as we go down this roof, I've already talked about I'm going to do another row of the ice barrier, shield up here and then from In that point in my area, I have to use two layers of 15 pound roofing felt all over the roof under the shingles, right along these edges, the gable ends.

In fact, I want this to be on top of the felt on top of this as well, so if you can imagine if this is your side of your roof, okay, the roof comes out, if water or snow or anything comes through here and it gets between this and your shingles, it can go under your shingles, come out here and it actually gets to the felt paper or whatever you have for the subfloor and it will run to the bottom of the roof without going into the wood or soak the wood. Okay, if you had this under it, if this was under that, under the subfloor, the rain and that. it could just go right between them and right into your attic or whatever that would cause some damage so on the ends you want this to be on top of your entire subfloor here we have it underneath because the water is rolling down and then it comes here and towards the gutters okay so there's two different ways to do it now because of the wind today I can't roll up this whole roof with paper or half of it it'll just break before they shingle it so , what I am going to do?

I'm going to do. I'm going to leave this like this until we've started a little bit on the shingles and then I'll be able to, once the shingles are here on this Edge, I'll just come and stick them under there and start them and then uh, you know, once we get there a little further, it's just because it's so long. If I put it here and leave it hanging there, the wind will rip it off in this crazy country today, okay, you'll see. At some point in my other video showing the installation, like I'm going to put shingles on the roof, you'll see that piece there and hopefully I'll remember to mention it again, so okay, now to start on the roof, we have our subfloor perfect. we're good on that end, uh, what we're going to do is the tile that we're using.

We are using a laminated architectural shingle as our actual finish shingle so you can see we have some duplicate areas here when all of this is done it looks great it looks like you know a shake roof or you know a nicer style roof instead of just three tabs or interlocking, most areas you can't access anymore, but anyway, this is just a normal three tabs. Here, so this is basically your other option, it's three tab roofs like that. Now with the three tabs or architecture, you need to start with a starter course, which is basically just an extra layer of shingles right at the edge of the roof.

On top of your underlayment, you can purchase a starter strip from your different shingle companies. Really, all you need to do is purchase a three-pack of tab shingles in the same color as the one you are using for your main shingles. Take the shingle normally, this is how it would be on the roof, turn it half a turn like this, use this as the starting strip, okay, so we'll put this on our first row of shingles, it will line up completely with it and what that does is which simply gives us a double layer. of protection here plus the underlayment, okay, so it's cheaper to buy a three tab and do it that way, you still get the same, you still get the same.

Now to start, we want to have a nice straight line like we did with the subfloor, so we're going to do the same thing, we're going to measure the tile, sorry, we're going to measure this one, this one here, this is the three tile tabs. which we're going to use for the initial strip and I'm just measuring its width and what I want when it's all said and done is that ideally I'd like it to hang about a/4 inch beyond the uh, drip cap, okay, that means that whatever this measurement is, which I think is 13 and a/4, we actually want to line up about 13 inches up from the corner of that drip edge to follow so that it's nice and straight and that will give us our quarter in some people like the overhang better.

I wouldn't use less than a quarter inch on the overhang. Depending on how crooked your ceiling is, you may not know some spots where it might not hang as much, so this ceiling is quite a bit. Straight up, like I said, I'm going to mark my measurement here on this end and the other end, then I'm going to hand my partner the chalk line, let's break that line so we can start here. Okay, so we have our brand here. I'm going to extend the chalk line. Give that to my assistant. He will go to the other end of the roof and we have a line one mark down. there corresponds to the same thing, how you're kissing, you're okay, okay, and I'm going to stretch this out and get a nice nice tease so we get a nice true line, like that, okay, that's our guide basically.

Hopefully we can get off to a good start on this shingle job. I usually like to do the starter course by simply nailing by hand, rather than dragging the hose, and many times you don't have the luxury of scaffolding. to work here, so you're working on the ceiling, you know, basically hanging over the edge, nailing upside down. The cool thing about the scaffolding we've set up, it does a couple of different things, it's mainly for the camera. man to have a decent area to shoot from, but it's also a little bit of fall protection so that we don't have to be snagged, we have to be very careful still on the outside edges and we should probably still be snagged there. but this gives us the fall protection that we need on this side, okay, so I'm going to get rid of my stapler, okay, so remember I said we're going to turn that one over as it is here now and same thing.

Kind of like I said, we want to hang one/what inch on this edge that our line will give usthere, we also want to hang about the same amount or even half an inch on the other end, so we just want to take the time to start here properly and I can see that this is already a little bit. I think we're going to be fine. It's a little ridiculous because this drip edge is a little bent and warped to match. above this gutter guard, okay, so Mark lines up the top of the shingle up there there and we're going to nail.

I'm going to stay away from this end so I can get that piece in. We are going to nail approximately halfway down the shingle. I'm going to put five, five nails in this one. normally I would have one available and I'll be able to add it once I get that trim job there okay so you just want to continue along the ceiling putting the initial strip down. Don't worry too much about what's going on down here, we're worried about this line we have up here, so we start nice and straight, push the shingles together. We have some nails here that you might want to use. safety glasses uh depending on how crazy you're nailing, okay, I'll do one more just to get us a little bit further here.

You could use an air nailer for this. I'll do it for the main part of the roof, but like I said, I just like it. nail it by hand to start here, it's just one less thing in your way, okay, so go all the way up the ceiling, cut it with whatever you decide you want to stick out there and then the other part of starting. you're

getting

your first real row of finished shingles on the roof now with this particular shingle that we want to nail there's a duplicate section here that we don't want to nail Above this strip of tar up here otherwise they're not going to hold up to the wind load that they're supposed to, we basically have to nail along that strip of tar and that will be on the double layer of the shingle.

You can see there's a line here that you don't want to have. your nails underneath that because then they're going to be exposed, so you've got maybe a 3/4 inch area there to nail in and you want to be pretty precise with that now that we're starting with a full length shingle here in this first roll. , we're washing it, really just washing down to the initial strip that we put all the way down, oops, it goes down there out there and out and these particular ones are for my winds and the pitch of the roof and everything that six nails in recommend. this.

I'm going to stay back from the end so we can put that molding back on after we nail right into the tar strip, so I went in about an inch or I would. between about an inch from each end and then space the other four nails inside the shingle, okay, like this, so for this row we want to do the same thing all the way right above this one that I did. We're going to do one more here in the next few rows, after that, we're going to deal with this in the next video, so you're going to have to look for that, so we're just going to join the shingles together by going about an inch into the tar strip, or the nail length.

If you are using a 1 inch pneumatic nailer and 1 eight nails are more than enough with the pneumatic nailer for the main body of the roof, the ridge is a little different, you will need longer nails to go through it. All the layers that you have, we'll talk about that in the other video too, but in any case, you're hand nailing and you should, even if you're air nailing, you should also have some nails on hand because you're going to do it. to need them, uh, you could use 1 inch nails, but I wouldn't recommend that because you're just going to kill your fingers, so I like to use about an inch and a half nails, which gives you a lot of room to get. your fingers on it get the nail started without breaking your finger with the hammer, so we just work like this and, uh, really the only concern here to keep in mind is that you're not going to end up with this seam and this layer. lining up with the seam and the one below, try to keep at least 3 or 4 offset.

These two shingles are different lengths, so I didn't have to cut one or the other to start making that happen, so it should work. to the end of the roof, but keep that in mind as you go, am I for

getting

something? I don't think so, so I think that solves everything. As I said in the next video, you're going to see us do more with this roof as we go up, we're going to have some vents to go around the ridge, all that kind of stuff, we're going to take care of that molding there too, so I hope this has given you a good idea on how to get started with your roofing project and, you know, we always enjoy when people come to the forum and tell us how their project turned out after they've used our videos for help or, maybe, If you If you're stumped by something in particular, we didn't cover it, or you didn't quite understand what I was saying, come to the forum, post your question and I'll be sure to get back to you as soon as I can.

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