How To Choose A Wood Finish, and How To ApplyJun 11, 2021
In this video I'll talk about the thought process I used to decide how I
finishfor my projects and show you how I
applythem. I also put some links in the description box below this video. to some of my favorite
finishes, if you want to see them, I'm going to talk about two different finishing scenarios in this video and the first scenario is for projects where I want maximum durability, a strong finish that protects the
woodfrom things like moisture and heat a good An example of that would be a table because it is something that is going to require a lot of wear and tear.
Maybe you throw your keys on it when you get home, put a drink on it when you can't find a coaster or maybe put a hot plate on it from time to time. The first thing I want to consider is whether I am happy with the natural color of the wood. If not, the first thing I want to do is
applya stain. or a dye. Now I will put information on the screen that shows the differences between stains and stains and also the differences between water-based stains and oil-based stains. Dyes and stains are available in a variety of different colors and can be applied with a brush or lint-free cloth and it is a good idea to wipe off any excess with another cloth.
Some woods like pine, for example, do not stain very evenly as the stain can penetrate more into some areas than others, so for those situations it is best to apply a coat of sanding sealer before applying the stain. Dyes and dyes can be reapplied if you want to achieve a darker color You can also dilute it if you want the color change to be more subtle Water can be used to dilute water-based dyes and white Alcohol, also known as rubbing alcohol mineral, can be used to dilute oil-based dyes. The next thing I want to consider is whether I want to apply an oil to the wood.
The oil brings out the grain of the wood, bringing out the natural beauty and also adds a warmer touch. The amber tone of the wood and whether I decide to apply oil at this stage depends on a number of things, such as whether I am going to apply a different type of finish to the wood that will bring out the wood grain anyway, if so . so applying oil may not help when I like to apply a different finish over the oil. That finish will be compatible with oiled wood. Some finishes do not adhere properly to oiled wood and I will talk a little more about compatibility later. the video and I want to add an amber tone to the wood, for example.
Personally, I'm not a big fan of oil paint on woods like beech because it can make it look a little orange, whereas I love the color of oil paint on woods. like cheesy Li and mahogany, the best way to decide the answers to all these questions is to do some tests on the piece of the same wood if you have some experiments available and see what you like before applying it to the project in terms of The Oils that are available to purchase My preferred oil is boiled linseed oil because it is inexpensive and dries fairly quickly.
There are many other types of oil available such as tung oil, teak oil and mineral oil. There are also some varnish-containing oils to offer. more protection and durability like Danish oil, although all of these oils have different strengths and weaknesses, as you can see from the information I have put on the screen, they all now look very similar when applied to the wood. I couldn't tell one from the other. If you were just looking at different oils on a piece of wood, they would look pretty much the same. Oils can be reapplied and are very easy to apply using a brush, foam brush, or lint-free cloth if you use a piece. of cloth to apply an oil finish, it is very important to dispose of the entire piece of cloth safely because oily rags can spontaneously combust and cause a fire once they soak into the wood, wipe away excess oil with another cloth that You can also sand between coats. with some high grit abrasive paper to keep the finish super smooth.
I tend to use 320 or 400 grit. The next thing I want to decide is what type of finish I want to use to make the wood more durable. My favorite finish for its durability is usually the spray. spray varnish or lacquer, both work similarly, but now I will put information on the screen showing the differences between the two. Leaves a great smooth finish with no brush marks to worry about. It's also quicker to apply than using a brush or cloth. finish, so it speeds up my finishing workflow a lot and is very durable, but it also has some drawbacks.
It is generally not the cheapest option compared to other types of finishes. The vapors from the spray are harmful, so you should wear a suitable respirator while using it. and it takes some practice and a little skill to get a good finish. If you apply it outdoors, the wind can create problems. If you apply it indoors, those harmful paint fumes hang in the air for longer. Aerosol cans are not always the most reliable to use, either they can sometimes spit and splatter the finish unevenly, which can totally ruin the finish, meaning you have to return it and recoat it, which It can be a real pain.
There are better spray settings for applying finishes like spray. varnish and lacquer, like using an air compressor and a spray gun, you can also get electric and battery operated spray guns, but I haven't had any experience with those more advanced setups, but it's definitely something I'd like to do in the future , so you can apply spray varnish or lacquer. I shake the can very well and make sure to start and end each spraying motion on each side of the surface. I'm spraying what I mean by that is instead of spraying from here to here, I spray from here.
Up to this point, it is best to keep the spray pan upright and parallel to the surface you are spraying for the best result and that also minimizes the risk of the cam splashing. I keep the can 25 to 30 centimeters away from the surface. I'm spraying to get the most uniform finish. If you get closer you will get a little shine in the finish. I apply a first coat and then wait for it to dry, then spray a little water and wet sand in between. each layer with high grit wet and dry paper, like 320 or 400 grit, with D tip to get the finish, which keeps it very smooth, then I wipe off the dust with a damp cloth, dry it and I'm ready to reapply the layer.
I applied several thin coats. The more coats you apply, the glossier the finish will be and the more durable it will be. Other alternative finishes for great durability are polyurethane. It is also available to purchase water or oil based. It can be applied with a brush. with a roller or foam brush in the direction of the grain, you can also get wipe-on polyurethane, which you can apply with a lint-free cloth so you don't have to worry about drips or brush marks, you can also thin out the regular material, so it is best to clean it using turpentine, also known as mineral spirits, for oil-based polyurethane or water for water-based polyurethane, if you thin it, keep in mind that you will want to apply more coats to get the maximum. durability again, sanding with 320 or 400 grit between each coat helps cut through the finish and keep it nice and smooth.
Varnish is another durable finish, but it dries slower and is not as durable as polyurethane. However, it is generally cheaper than polyurethane. offers better protection against UV rays. I mentioned the compatibility of finishes earlier. If oil or stain has been applied to the wood, before applying a finish such as varnish or polyurethane lacquer, you should ensure that the finish you are using is compatible with what has been applied. applied before, for example, a water-based finish may not adhere properly to an oil-based finish if you have applied oil to the wood or used an oil-based stain, so be sure to use a water-based finish. oil based if I have used a water base then it is better to apply a water based finish, all that being said, although the water based acrylic spray varnish that I use all the time has always worked perfectly well for me on wood oiled I always do it.
Make sure the oil has dried completely before applying the varnish and I've never had any problems with it even after several years of applying it to a finished project, but if you can, as I mentioned above it's definitely a good idea to do some evidence. on some scraps of the same wood before applying the finish to your finished project, it's not always easy to tell from the packaging whether a finish is water-based or oil-based. This one doesn't say it, but a good indication is that it says wash here. It is applied by brush in water, which means the finish is water-soluble, making it water-based.
Also, if the finish looks white and milky, it usually means it is water-based. If it looks oily with an amber color, then it is likely oil-based. The final finish that offers excellent durability is hard wax oil. It is a relatively new product and is very expensive to purchase at the moment. I hope that over time the price of these will reduce. I don't have any experience with them. I have never used them. but from what I've read, it's supposed to be something brilliant. I will now put information on the screen about why they are so popular and include links in the description box below to the products that were recommended to me in the Beyond the second scenario that I want to talk about for wood finishes, it is for when you might want Add some protection and durability, but the project is not likely to be in contact with heat or humidity, like a wooden box or a wine rack or a piece of furniture that won't have drinks on it.
My favorite finish to apply to those items is an oil wax finish. I make mine using a mixture of beeswax oil and solvents, and I also do a food finish. safe version which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax, which is great for things like cutting boards. I already made a video on how I make it which I will link to in the description box below if you are interested and it is also available for purchase, purchase it on my Etsy page if you want to try it for yourself, what I like about it is that it is super Fast and easy to apply.
You can use a lint-free cloth, a paintbrush, or some steel wool. It serves a lot and only needs one coat. After applying one coat I immediately wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and let it dry and once it's dry I can buff it to a nice shine with another cotton cloth. The oil in the mixture highlights the grain and natural beauty of the wood and the wax makes the wood super soft to the touch. Another option to get a similar finish is to apply oil first and I talked about the different oils you can use earlier in the video.
In the video, wait for the oil to dry and then apply a polishing wax like the waxes available at Bry Backs. Rybak's is available in clear but does not burst, so I prefer to use my own homemade oil wax mix or apply oil. First, Britax is also available in different colors, which is a great way to add color to wood without using a stain or stain. However, the one thing you'll want to consider with colored waxes is that you really need to buff the wax well. once it's been applied, otherwise dyed Western can come off things like clothing, so I wouldn't use colored waxes on something that's likely to come into contact with clothing, like a chair for example, you can also apply wax without applying oil if you want the wood to retain its natural color and do not want to highlight the grain, wax can be applied on top of any finish, but it is important to remember that wax should always be applied last;
You can also use oil as a finish. In my opinion, your own wax-free oils that contain varnish, such as Danish oil, work best because they will add a little shine, but if you want to add shine using another oil like linseed oil for example, you can just sand it. a very high grit between coats to get a really nice polished surface. Another finish you may want to consider is shellac, which is a more old-fashioned finish, making it ideal for things like antique lacquer, which is used in French polishing. fantastic and can be applied directly over virtually any other type of finish except wax as I said before which should always be applied last, shellac is available as a pre-prepared and ready to use liquid.
It is also available in flakes which must then be dissolved in alcohol It is easy to apply using a brush, foam brush or lint-free cloth in the direction of the wood grain Again it is a good idea to sand between coats using grit abrasive paper 320 or 400, wipe off any residue Dust with a damp cloth, dry and then you are ready to apply the next coat. I hope you enjoyed this video and I hope it was helpful in some way. Subscribe to my channel if you haven't already for more weekly woodworking videos. and thanks for watching
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