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How To: 6.7 Cummins Head Gasket Replacement (part 2/2 Install)

Jun 06, 2021
Hey guys, Kyle here with our car and diesel, this is the video for


2 to replace a



on a 67 Cummins, this is the video. I'll do the


anyway, just do my quick spiel, like and subscribe if you have it. questions asked in the comments or searching on Instagram with our car and diesel anyway let's go out if you're just interested in it doing certain things next I'll fast forward times so you can move on and get the cylinder


back. everything's pressure tested, resurfaced, it's clean, it's done, so the first thing I'm going to do here is just dress this head up like it was when I took it off the truck, for example, put these lifting hooks back on it, put this on.
how to 6 7 cummins head gasket replacement part 2 2 install
Grille heater with just a couple of bolts, I cleaned the grille heater before putting it on, the only thing though is I'm going to leave these guys off until I put it back on the truck just because it will be a lot easier to tighten this up. If this is secured on the block, then I'm scraping this


right now, okay, the head is done, it's ready to go back to the truck, now we're going to go to the truck and prepare the block for the head. Okay, the first thing I'm going to do is show you these holes for the bolts or head bolts.
how to 6 7 cummins head gasket replacement part 2 2 install

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how to 6 7 cummins head gasket replacement part 2 2 install...

I'm going to put a screwdriver in there to get the oil out. I'll do it with a rag. because you don't want this oil to get into your coolant here, if it gets there, that's fine, but try to wipe it off with a rag. Now what I'm going to do is I'm just going to give this a little polish, just polish it, this is what I'm using, you just don't want to see sparks, you just want to go over it gently to get that shine back, you don't want to take metal. Just be very careful and be aware of where the dust is and everything it shoots at you.
how to 6 7 cummins head gasket replacement part 2 2 install
You know you want to try to keep this as clean as possible. Well, I have the platform nice and clean. Now what I'm going to do is I'm just going to take the regulations, I'm going to come in here and I'm just going to clean all my pistons and get all the dirt out, everything you know, a little bit of debris, bits of dirt, everything, just clean it out of your cylinders, of your pistons and just take it out. nice and clean for the head gasket, one more thing we need to do before we put the new head gasket on is just know a ruler, a level, something like that, put it in here and see if there are any low spots that are good to get. a couple of feeler gauges and put some Fila gauges under here and you know, make sure your block isn't warped once you're happy with it, everything's clean, there's no debris on it, then you can put your new gasket on.
how to 6 7 cummins head gasket replacement part 2 2 install
I just want to say it one more time, like I said in the first video, this is how I do it, this is what works for me, I've never had a problem, but I don't pretend to do it, you know, this is the only way to do it or this that's the best way to do it that's how I do it right, I've got my new head gasket normally the words face up, that's not always the case, but if I put that guy here, put him on my pegs, there, there. I'm just going to check to make sure all my holes are lined up and I'm not blocking any passages and yeah, I put the head on.
I ended up unplugging this plug here just because that gave us a little bit of a pain when we pulled the head out so without unplugging we shouldn't get caught on anything when we put the head in here it's under the head nice and shiny and a nice new gasket and shiny is all ready to go, so when you put this head on there are two dollar pins, one here and one there, and you're just going to line up the head here as best you can and then you're going to slowly lower it down onto those pins and you should feel it lock the place when it falls on the pins, yeah, Nick Don, uh, Lord, slow down the song, well, I think it's wrong, well, the heads went in just fine, it's a good idea to just check it out.
I put a mirror here so I could do it. so so I can see all the way through and make sure there's nothing stuck underneath, okay, like I said, we're going to use RP head bolts instead of studs, there's a


number that's going to focus on there, this shows you your torque. Sequence all your washers, nuts and studs here, so the reason they're so much better is that instead of just being a bolt that just threads down and holds your head down, you just thread this into your block and then this has I have a fine thread here and you can actually tighten the nut and it will hold the head to the block instead of just screwing the head to the block so it definitely helps if you're going to do some running. higher power tuning or simply head gasket longevity.
I always recommend doing this. Actually, I won't even guarantee a head gasket job if the customer refuses to pay the extra hundreds of dollars for head bolts, so I pulled all the stuff out. from the box here, I'm going to open this lubricant for the fastener assembly and I'm just going to put a little bit on all the threads, rub it in there with a brush so that they are well lubricated and the same with the nuts. I'm going to try putting some on the threads and nuts. I'm going to gently coat the washers with some of this lubricant as well.
I'll put it all in here once they're all lubed up and ready. To go, we'll start putting them on the truck, okay, you can do this before or after you live them, but if you stop, you'll notice that six of them are a little bit longer and you want to pull. Those six bolts or those bolts outside and those bolts will go on the side closest to the exhaust manifold. Well, I got all six. I put the one next to it just for comparison so you can see it's a little shorter. So this one can come back here anyway, these six you put the coarse thread down and this Allen wrench on top, but these six are going to go in here two three four five six, so all of these along the exhaust manifold will have the longest bolts, once you have all six bolts you can take the rest of the bolts again on this side up and just put them in all the other holes.
Now you're going to take a five millimeter allen wrench or a socket like I have here and Typically you're going to start at the front here, but you're going to tighten them all the way down by hand until they bottom out and once you've got them tight you're just going to back up a little bit. quarter turn so that Do that with all of them, tighten them by hand until they bottom out and then back off a quarter turn. Okay, all my bolts are there. I tightened them all the way until they bottomed out and backed them off a quarter turn now.
We're going to put all the washers on each bolt and then we're going to put the nuts on. Okay, all my washers are on. Now I'm going to go ahead and put all the screws on Kill. All my nuts are on. I'm just using a fourteen millimeter 12 point socket with a 3/8 drive right now and I'm threading them all in all the way, just hand tight. Now we can tighten the head bolts, so I'm just going to hold the camera. here a little bit so you can pause it or whatever, but that's the torque, see the current sequence right there, so if you look, that's the side of the exhaust manifold at the top and that's the sequence we're doing , as you can see.
It's going to be like 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 something like this, just the opposite of how we take out the head, the head bolts, we're putting the head bolts in from the middle out just to keep them from warping as we tighten them . yes, the first torque is 40 foot-pounds, the second torque is 80 foot-pounds and the final torque is 125 foot-pounds, so you will personally tighten them three times in the third final torque. I usually just go up to 130 foot-pounds, but that's just Yo, okay, the first torque is done, now I'm going to torque them to 80. I'm still using this three-eighths torque wrench for the final torque.
I'll have to go up and use a half inch torque wrench, but this one is small. and it works fine for now, so let's see if we can get eighty out of this guy, here we go, hey, that's the second torque, one more torque to get to 125 foot-pounds, like I said. I usually make more in 30, but it's up to you, usually. click on them, put them every time at the final torque, okay, they're all tight. One thing we're going to have to do is this type of rocker housing there, we're going to have to machine a little bit what's on this type. here, but we're going to do that when we have to put it on, so the next thing we're going to do is put this exhaust manifold back on, so just get your new gaskets, put them on there, put the bolts on, remember these fronts. the ones that have bolts for that heat shield, the lower rear ones should have a bolt for that coolant line.
I don't think 2013 and newer Cummins 6-7s had that coolant line coolant line, but if they do, you should put it back in too. but this turbo coolant line hook coming back, yeah, we're going to mount this all back on the side of the cylinder head, okay, I've got all the gaskets and bolts in place here, now I'm just going to torque them all up to 32 foot-pounds and start in the middle and work your way out, so do this first and this bottom one will come out while you torque them all to 32 foot-pounds, okay, the exhaust manifold has all the torque down.
I've got the coolant line that runs underneath I've got it bolted on, there's a bracket up here and one on the back of the bolt that it's connected to, so I'm going to put these two coolant fittings on, put the heater hose on the cab and place the dipstick holder back. In a way it just ends everything on the passenger side, okay, it's all done, now you can turn the alternator back, bolt the alternator on and put your seat belt on. Okay, once you turn the alternator back on, you have your belt on, there are these wires. grid heater cable and these guys here are holding their bracket with their zip tie on the back, we're going to leave this top radiation hose off for now, just because it'll be a little bit easier to see down there when we're doing our set of valves, so just assemble all this wiring and stop.
I got a little ahead of myself. I forgot to put this guy on this heat shield on the exhaust manifold, so I'll quickly put it on right now, okay? shields on, I've got this exhaust pressure tube right there, loose, my nice new fancy electrical tube is all tied up here, so now before I forget, let's go back here and that fuel line that goes in the back of the head, back here, Let's put that one on, it should just be this banjo bolt and these two washers that seal the washers, so yeah, I make sure these washers are in there and put them on nice.
The fuel line is down at the back of the head. We're going to go ahead and put the injectors in right, so what we're going to do is put new copper washers and old rings on the injectors, so I just use a very small flathead screwdriver to get it in here. lift it up be very careful with these injectors especially the tip you just don't want to ruin anything so just work it and there's one and the o ring which is pretty easy just pop it out there boom and that's it. So I'm going to remove the copper washers and O-rings from the other five injectors and then we'll talk about putting the new things on.
Well, I usually give them a little saw to clean them up and clean them. a little bit and use like that any scotch brite or SOS pad or whatever and just give this tip a little bit of a clean make sure you've got all the clutter out of it okay once you're happy with how clean it is you're going to get your new copper washer . It doesn't matter which way you put it in, but put it in there, just start it up and then you can probably get it up to there, so we'll use a plug and just tap it gently.
I'm just using the 3/8 shallow socket. Here you can also use a ten millimeter or something like that, but you said to touch it lightly just like that and then with the O-ring I just put a little bit. of Vaseline, if you use oil, whatever, just slide it in and twist it like this. Another way that works well to attach these copper washers is to just start like this and grab the plug, just leave it. actually put dots line it up and then just press down like this okay so I'm just putting a little bit of Trillium gelatin on my or the ring you can use oil or whatever you prefer and they'll get this guy make sure of having is lined up correctly so first look through the hole and make sure there is nothing in the injector hole so this is where the feed tube will go which will go towards the drivers side so make sure you have it oriented correctly again. that hole goes to the right side so you're just going to put your injector in there and then I'm just going to use my two thumbs and you're going to push it down and you're going to feel it snap into place just like that now We're going to take the two injector bolts down, screw them in tight. hand and squeeze them and you notice that this can rotate, you want to keep it as level as possible, so when we tighten it, we'll tighten it, you know, one turn to the right. side and the one that rotates on the left side, okay, then your first torque will be forty-four pounds per inch,rear and we need to modify this a little bit to fit that head bolt because the head bolt goes up and actually hits here, so we need to cut this off.
I'll take a paint marker and just show what I'm going to cut out. I don't know if you can see it, but that's where I'm going to crop the image in the instructions. Look, this is how they have a cutout and it shows how they cut. I'm just going to use a little grinder and I'm going to blast out that aluminum over there, that's it, it's all drilled out and this is good to go. I'm just going to remove this gasket, replace the gasket. with a new one and spray it with brake cleaner and air and then put it on like it's tight inside out now you can put the injector harness gasket back on.
I'm using a new one but I could use the old one. one and it's okay, they don't have to be very tight, I just can't go, I'm just doing it like a wrench, once you have it completely screwed on, I just tighten it a little bit like that, that's it. Very low torque specs don't overtighten them, try pouring some oil over the rocker arms and the valve goes back there. If you have a small oil gun, it's best to go back in there and lubricate all the parts. You will get oil, it seems to increase the oil pressure when you turn it on, but it's good to just pre-lubricate them so they're not drying out in there, you can put the valve cover back on once you've put it on, you can put the breather filter on of the crankcase.
I always recommend putting in a nice new filter because guys tend to overlook this part of their maintenance, so put the CCD filter cover on now, how there's all this electrical, these hoses, this dipstick, there's a bolt back there basically okay and you've got this guy that we unplugged to plug in the cylinder head, just all this electrical, screw it back in and plug everything in. Okay, all my electrical hoses and all the brackets are bolted on the driver's side. If you have a simpler system on your truck, this is when you'll have to put everything back in its place, but for me, this is the last bit.
I'm going to change my fuel filter just because we had a lot of fuel lines and everything open I don't want to get contaminated. I feel like a nice new fuel filter will be nice and I'm also going to do an oil change leaving this air intake tube out so I can get this oil filter out very easily so yeah I'll do a filter oil change of fuel and I'll fill the coolant and then we'll see. I'll make it work I always use a new radiator cap every time I do head gasket work, but yeah, oil change done, fuel filter changed, coolant refilled, this guy is a vacuum, the Batteries are connected, so now one more thing before we begin.
I'm actually going to loosen the front injector fuel line a little so we can bleed all the air out of the system while I crank the truck, it's a little loose there so we'll keep an eye out for fuel coming out. there, before I do that, I just grab this fan and give it a spin, make sure it doesn't hit anything. Do one last sort of check, make sure you don't have any tools lying around and yes, you can catch your friend or yourself. If you're doing it with two guys, that works best again, start it up and while you're watching before you try to start the truck, if you change the feel filter, just turn the key for 30 seconds and turn it off, turn it back on for 30 seconds, Do it a couple of times, it should help prime the fuel filter.
Well, Craig Carter, here you are cleaning up a nice diesel spill because when you changed the fuel filter you never closed the drain plug, so when we were trying to prime our system. I was all mad on the floor, so hey Carter, yeah, okay, we've got some diesel fuel coming from there, so we're going to tighten this injector line now, okay, our fuel lines are tight, so I'll spin it again, there you have it. once it's running good, you know, check the oil, check the coolant level, check for leaks, look underneath. I'm going to park this thing on the side cover idle for a moment and then I'll take it for a spin and bring it up to temperature and then I'll do it.
A final check of all the fluids and everything, but you should be pretty good, I hope yours and this one are fine, that concludes my video for head gasket


on Cummins 6-7. I feel like you should be able to follow it if you're pretty decent with a wrench. If you liked the video, if you found it useful, please like and subscribe. I worked hard to make this video for you, maybe I forgot any questions asked in the comments or searching on Instagram on dar car. and diesel anyway guys thanks for watching

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