Honda Grom Clutch Replacement | Honda Grom Oil Pump Mod | Partzilla.com

Hi, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today we are going to do some work on a 2018 Honda Grom. Today we will focus on the

clutch

system, but while we are there, we will install a high flow oil

pump

. But there are also a couple of other pieces we'll need. Now, once again, we went to Koso Norte for most of our parts. We have the

clutch

kit and are also installing a lifter. Here is our oil

pump

. Now, on top of that, there are a couple more parts you'll need that are OEM. You'll need a gasket for that cover and then the bearing that goes inside this lift plate.

The good thing about this one? When we finish building it, we will give it away. So if you like, check the link in the description below. It will take you to a landing page where you can enter to win. But if the contest is already over, why don't you leave us a little note in the comments section and tell us which machine you'd like me to modify and then we'll give it away? Now as for the special tools, here they are. The first one I want to talk about is this adapter that is going to pull two different nuts: one that holds the main clutch nut and the others for what they call the oil spinner.

This part will actually do both. The other thing you will need is something to hold the equipment. Now Honda makes one for this process. Just have that on the gears when they come together, which will keep everything still and not damage the gears. Now that we have our special parts and tools assembled, we can go there and get started. We will start this process by placing our fiber plates and simply pour in a liter of oil to soak in while we separate the rest of the machine. I'm just using standard GN4 oil. Nothing special. We just don't want to dry the plates because if we do, there is a chance that they will never pick up the oil and immediately start to break.

Let's put that aside. Next we are going to go ahead and remove the oil from the machine. You only need a 17 millimeter to do that. The bolt you are looking for is here. Now we probably could have used the oil he took out to soak our dishes, because I think this machine is two miles old. Yes, it looks new. So we've got our dishes soaked, all the oils drained, let's go ahead and reinstall our drain plug. Now let's go ahead and get the brake lever out of the way. Instead of removing the entire bracket, we'll simply remove the pivot point right here, and that should allow it to go down enough to clear the case.

Now let's go for this upper bracket that holds the clutch cable. We should be able to remove the bracket still attached to the cable and then release it from the clutch arm. There she goes. Now what Honda wants you to do is simply remove the other bolts and do a crisscross pattern. They're all loose now. We're just going to let them know. Now, when we remove this cover, it's going to spill some oil onto the exhaust system, and I'm not too worried about that right now because we're going to replace it. But if you weren't, it would be a good idea to cover it so you don't have so much mess to clean up later.

And all these screws? They all seem to be the same length. But before removing the cover, be sure to remove the dipstick, otherwise it will get caught in the centrifugal filter. Next, let's break this cover. To make this a little easier, they actually make a special tool that sits here on the gear to hold the entire still. That's not absolutely necessary, it just sits there like that. In fact, you could just use a piece of aluminum and let the gears adhere to it. Just be sure to remove it when you put it back together. Now, if the things weren't Loctite, it wouldn't be a big deal to just drop them.

But yes, I have to put in a lot of effort and it would be very difficult to hold this with my hands. So to accomplish this, you will need a special Honda tool to go in and grab that particular bolt. Arrange everything in the same sequence in which it comes out. We'll definitely need to clean this up before putting it back together. I'll tell you what, let's go ahead and remove the gasket. Oh, and for once Honda used a gasket that could actually be removed. Those greenish type gaskets are so well made that they are extremely difficult to remove.

Usually the hardest part of this is getting all the residual stuff, like here, done. And this one has turned out quite well. With that plate down, let's reach in and remove this bearing. I hope it turns out well. So, with the bearing removed, it's time to go ahead and undo the inner bolt. I've seen them just come apart, you know, holding the gear still, but sometimes those springs aren't tight enough to keep everything still and get the bolt to come loose. This is one of the few times I will use an impact. I don't really mind using them to take something apart, I never use them to put something together.

Once that's removed, we're going to take off this outer plate and we want to do it a couple of turns at a time, so we don't damage the bolts and the threads that they go to on the inside of the clutch. The reason we do all this is to increase the displacement and airflow in the head. I mean, I'm programming a different throttle body, and that will put too much stress on the factory clutch. By opting for the Koso unit, you should be able to cope with the extra torque and horsepower you are going to develop.

Because you can look at the diameter of the stock springs compared to the Koso springs, you can visually see the difference and also feel the difference. I mean, I can compress it all the way with just my fingers, and maybe I can take the Koso unit halfway. That will put a lot more pressure on the plates, allowing them to stay together better. Now this is where it's important to mark how things come apart, because we want this part to be in the same orientation as the back part. What I think we'll do here is just take the entire assembly out, because putting it back together will be easier to do on the table and then just lift it up.

Here we go. Take care of your washing machine. Again, put things together as you take them apart. Makes it much easier to put it back together when you're done. I'm going to go ahead and remove the clutch pack as a whole. Practically one piece. Just put this aside. This is the part I wanted to show you. When you put this back together, we get it like this. Let's go one out. Check it out? It will not activate or go down completely. It has to go as they disarmed it like that. Because if you don't do it correctly, it won't put any pressure on the plates and you'll just burn out a new clutch.

So make sure you match this. And if you forget to match, just follow step by step until you can do it again. And that's right there. A very important little tip. Otherwise you will never get this to work properly. When you put this back together, make sure this washer isn't left out. And now we can start putting together our tote bag. So I know that on some of the older Groms you actually had different fiber discs. You had to go in a certain order when leaving. In this particular Koso kit, all the fibers are the same, so it doesn't matter how they are stacked.

And as best you can, look at where the teeth are actually aligned. That will make it easier when we go to put this section together. And now we're going to alternate back and forth until the stack is complete. It seems like I have most of my teeth pretty well aligned. Now we can put this back. Now that everything is in place, let's go ahead and put it and the oil pan back into position. Here we go. She is completely down. Now our washing machine. And we'll just tighten this bolt by hand. Take note of where your threads are when it comes time to lift the plate.

Our springs in place. This is where gravity is not really your friend. It may be easier to turn the machine on its side to do this, but we'll work around that. We'll get all three of them running and then make sure all of our springs are seated like they're supposed to. Now, as we bring them back, we do two or three laps at a time, moving from one to the other. Alright, it looks like everyone has hit rock bottom now. Now we'll take our torque wrench and set it to 9 foot-pounds. That's all. All right, those two 10 millimeters that hold that little oil pan, put them back in.

Now let's shift gears and focus our attention on the oil pump, because now would be the perfect time to go ahead and get it changed. The reason we are doing this is because we want more oil flow. With this modification, the amount of pressure increases, therefore more oil circulates more frequently inside the engine. There are other kits available now, but from the amount of modifications I'm doing to it, it should make it a really safe and reliable machine without having to go any further. There are the two studs that remained in the casing. Now what we need to do is remove the circlip, disassemble it and then reassemble it using the same circlip with our new housing and internal parts.

Your plate. The manual may not tell you to do this, but I think if it's an exposed bolt, especially like this on the inside of an engine, I'll apply Loctite to it. Now, hold your equipment. I'll pass the axle once you get it right. There she is. Then replace our E-clip. I think I can do this without piercing myself. There she goes. You should do that. Now just screw it back into place. A little more Loctite and then we'll bring each of these to 9 foot pounds. Be careful when you do this. Make sure the teeth are aligned with the gears; otherwise, you may break them by pushing it in.

If this is your first time running the engine and it has some miles on it, now is a good time to clean out this little strainer here. I was hoping mine would be perfect because like I said, this thing had two miles on it when we took it to the shop. But if yours has some, now is the time to check it and go clean it. Now, the other thing to consider is the centrifugal or spinner oil filter. I think that's what it's commonly called. It has a little bit of junk, chances are yours has a lot.

Now it's time to clean this up. Okay, before we put the caster back on, let's go ahead and tighten the main bolt that goes to our clutch basket. Both nuts actually weigh 47 foot-pounds. At this point we can continue and get back on course. Make sure the letters are facing out. Here we go. Next, we put the roulette back, its washer and then this nut. Put our bracket in place. Here we go. We're getting closer now guys. This is a gasket that I didn't reorder, but it actually appears to be in good shape, so let's go ahead and put it back in.

I know these had Loctite in them when we took them apart, so they're definitely going to put Loctite back together. Please use our support once again. Our pegs are in place, let's put in our new gasket. Stay. All of these bolts are the same length. Just don't forget these little brackets and we'll do it last with the clutch cable so we can get the cable back. Here we go. Now let's put 9 foot-pounds on all of those. Let's get that last one. Next, let's put the brake pedal back into position. Alright guys, all I have to do next is fill it with oil, but seeing as how I'm going to get a little more into this engine, we're not going to fill it right now.

Well listen, why don't you go hit the link below and be entered to win this machine when I'm done with it? If you're curious about what I'll do next, why don't you hit the subscribe button? That way you will know. Well, listen, we just want to thank you for shopping here with us at

partzilla

.com, and if you need any parts for your machine, whether it's for a Grom or whatever, we have them. So come see us. Once again, thank you and see you in the next video. Have a great day.