YTread Logo
YTread Logo

HIMIWAY - Dual Battery Wiring

HIMIWAY - Dual Battery Wiring
welcome back if you've seen some of my videos you know i'm always talking rad rover but i recently bought a hemi way cruiser and today i'm going to upgrade this from 17 and a half amp hour to 27.5 amp hour or under 200 dollars i'm gonna do that with this

battery

right here this is a 10 amp hour

battery

48 volt and i got it for 158 dollars on ebay i'm sure it's not the best quality

battery

in the world it's not going to last 900 cycles like hemingway says their

battery

does but if i get a couple years use out of this

battery

and i've spent less than 200 doing the upgrade i'll be happy the mileage you get on the bike is pretty good but once you unlock the throttle and you start zooming around at 30 miles an hour you really lose a lot of your range so that's why i'm going to upgrade the

battery

now i've already upgraded my rad rover

battery

i put a triangle

battery

20 amp triangle down here and then i took the existing red rover

battery

which is this right here and i mounted it on the back of my red rover and that's how i wired it in but i lost my bag back here what do i do with my tube and tools and pump so this

battery

that's only ten and a half inches long two in three quarters that way three inches that way fits in your standard bag easily i could fit a few of these in here if i wanted to i could put this

battery

in here i can fit a tube a pump tools and two water bottles in here i'm also going to cover in this...
himiway   dual battery wiring
video if you have an existing

battery

maybe it's 52 volt or 48 off an old bike or if you want to upgrade to 52 how do you do that can you run parallel at the same time how do you wire a switch in there if you want to switch from one

battery

to the other and not run parallel i'm going to cover all that in this video so regardless if you're upgrading your

battery

or running

dual

battery

we're going to need to splice into this cable that goes from the

battery

tray to the controller it's hard to see but it's this little cable right here and there's hardly any of it exposed so the next thing we're going to do is take off this tray and pull this out and see if there's any extra wire or what we got in here how we're going to splice in because there's not enough room right now on this wire to put our connectors on to remove the

battery

tray there are six hex bolts i have the

battery

tray loose now we're going to flip the bike over to get to the

wiring

harness on the bottom we're going to pull this

battery

tray out we're going to see if we can find some extra wire in here to splice into so this is what it looks like in here there's a tie wrap right here i'm gonna have to cut this tie wrap the cables are coming out from this little slot right here so i don't know which cable i have to pull out yet but i'm going to carefully remove this tie wrap right here now i want to remove the

battery

tray i'm pulling on...
himiway   dual battery wiring
this cable down here i'm trying to figure out which one of these cables up here that it corresponds to but i can't feel it i must the wire might be tucked up inside and then come back down that's what i suspect but by looking at the thickness of the cable on the

battery

tray and the way the wire look looks i think it's this center wire in the middle here so i'm just going to go ahead and gently pull on this sure enough that is the connector for the

battery

tray okay so what i've done here is i pulled out the tray and there was a bunch of wire stuffed up into the tube and then it comes back down so you probably have an extra six inches of wire on your

battery

tray it's installed i used to have that much wire showing now i have this whole uh eight inches of wire here and i have room where i'm going to put my connector in now on this

battery

tray cable and i just have to decide exactly where i want to make my cut i'm going to leave about uh three inches here coming out of the bottom of the uh

battery

tray i'm going to cut the wire right here so i am still i'm connected to the controller this

battery

cable here is plugged in so you could have a juice stored in the capacitor in your controller so try to turn your bike on and momentarily will flash on and off as it discharges otherwise when you cut this wire right here you would get a spark damage is done so now i have my cable cut down here to the length i want uh we're going to pull...
himiway   dual battery wiring
it all back out again and solder on our connectors i have the

battery

tray now with the cut cable that i need to put a connector on and i've decided on the xt90 connector this is a really high quality 90 amp connector and a lot of manufacturers use it for their e-bike

battery

connectors it comes in black or yellow the black ones i only can find on ebay the yellow ones you can get on amazon i'll put a link to the yellow ones they also come with a spark arrestor if you want there's a resistor in series here that will make contact with the resistor first before it makes full contact with your

battery

and that way if you have a load on the other side uh the spark won't be that big it would just be a small spark but you don't have to worry about that if you buy the spark arrested ones or not you're not going to be plugging these in multiple times a day where we're going to arc uh the connector so i wouldn't worry about that you buy the spark arrested ones fine don't worry about it i'm going to be using the black connector today so that it's harder to notice that i have it on there it's going to match perfectly so this is the cable that came off of my

battery

tray here so it just so happens to be the exact same cable off of the rad rover when i upgraded my red rover uh

battery

to

dual

battery

this is the cable that came with it so you can also get a replacement cable this is from bolton e-bikes same cable i have the female connector...
soldered to the

battery

you always put the female on the

battery

side so on the controller side i'm going to put a male connector so when soldering these connectors on i have a problem getting enough heat out of a 25 watt iron here uh you're holding it on there too long and you just don't get a good clean melt all the way because you're also getting the strength for this cable here if somebody yanks on the wire you don't want the solder joint to break so you really want to get a good connection so i'm using this it's a 100 watt 150 watt depending on how hard you pull the trigger it's two position trigger this will melt it almost instantaneously uh and this is about i think i paid 38 bucks for this this is a weller high power soldering iron we're done with the first part now we have the

battery

tray and the connector going to the controller all set to go we wanted to we could just remount this back in there and we're back to original here but this is where we're going to plug in our second

battery

either by a switch or to run parallel i'm going to run parallel i have a 48 volt

battery

here and this is a 48 volt

battery

and if we charge them up to the same voltage we can hook them up in parallel and then run them as one

battery

so on my generic

battery

i've gone ahead and i've changed the connector out to an xt90 and also i've added a xt90 charge port because once i plug this in i don't want to be in my bag...
unplugging the main cable i can just reach in there and charge it through this port and then on my charger i've gone ahead and put the same connector on there as well and i left those yellow just so i know that there's a charge port so what do we have here this is the

battery

here let me go ahead and put that on all ready to go so we have here now this is the

battery

that's mounted in the normal spot on the bike this is the cable coming up through the frame and then this is my

battery

that's on my rack and i'm going to make an extension cable i'm going to make an extension cable that has black connectors on it but this is the extension cable off of my rad rover let's wire the exact same of course so this is going to come down the tube and now we have two batteries coming down here if we want to the simplest thing we can do if you're not going to be using your

dual

battery

very much you might want to just keep this in the bag and you can just keep it all coiled up in there and run your main

battery

all the time and when this gets low if you're an emergency you just unplug this go in your bag feed your wire down and then plug in your backup

battery

you could do that but if you want to leave it plugged in all the time we're going to run parallel so first i'll talk about parallel then i'll talk about

wiring

up a switch so this is our parallel connector right here you don't have to make a y connector this already has two males to...
a female all the negatives are wired together and all the positives are wired together so all we have to do is plug these two batteries in here and once i plug this one in they are connected together and they are one bigger

battery

than they were before and they will drain together and they will charge together and you only have to plug in one of them to charge it because they're connected together so before i plug this in and hook them up in parallel they have to be very close to the same voltage uh it's not like a lead acid

battery

in a car where you can just jump it with another

battery

and let it charge for a while these will instantly want to equalize especially if one is completely discharged and one is charged all the way there's like a 10 volt difference they're really not 48 they have an operating voltage of like 54 to 43 or something like that this 10 11 volt range they have and if you connect them when one is down here and one is here they instantly are going to want to meet in the middle and you are only allowed to discharge the

battery

so fast that so many amps allowed out before you overheat the batteries and you oh and you're also allowed only so many charge amps in before you overheat the batteries you don't want to do that and it might not blow up on you but you're shortening the life of your batteries when you abuse them by putting too much current in or out at one time so that's why we're going to make sure that...
they're at equal potentials before we hook them together so i went ahead and charged both of these batteries to full charge that's one way i know that they'll be close to the same potential so this

battery

here 54 and a half volts fully charged this one 54 and a half volts so we're going to go ahead and hook them up in parallel and then this would be the cable going down the tube i mean into the tube now we have 27.5 amp hours of juice that we can use here i just mounted everything up to see how my cables fit when i run parallel and i have one small problem uh this is my parallel connector remember we have two males and a female the two males are where the batteries plug in because the batteries are always female and if you remember the controller is male and that plugs into the bottom so my problem is is that imagine this is mounted on the frame and then this tube is going up here if we scooch this up all the way as far as we can get this this way because there is a bun there's a lot of adjustment here we can get about three quarters of an inch right here between this tube and the

battery

tray so this mouth down here well now this connector has to come up here and turn 90 degrees down to be able to plug into here and i got three quarters of an inch here and this doesn't really fit i want this connector to come up to the bottom as well and to do that i have to make my own parallel connector this is the new connector that i made here i made it in black...
so the old connector had on top two males and on the bottom had the female that connected to the controller and we wanted to move one of these to the bottom so we could connect the

battery

to the bottom side not to the top so now the top only has one

battery

connection and then the bottom has the female for the controller and the other

battery

connection which is a male so both of them have two males but now the males are just on different sides on this one so it's the same three connectors uh just arranged a little bit differently and i'll show you how to make this so to make this connector we need two males and a female two males and a female now we need the opposites to plug into while we're soldering so that the pins don't melt and turn so i'm going to use the yellow ones as the opposites so that we don't get them confused this one's going to go here and i need females so i got the positive sides lined up male and a female now we need to get this positive side and this doesn't quite fit in here it's doesn't quite go down the middle i'm going to slightly bend these in just a hair okay now i'm going to attempt to solder these jesus foreign i'm gonna try this side i think that's pretty good so and i i just need to pull out the yellow connectors and then put some heat shrink on there i'll show you how to do that the heat shrink that i'm going to put on this connector is called one inch thin wall black heat...
shrink and i had to buy four dollars and fifty cents worth for this one inch that i need here so we'll just slide this over and there's a sleeve that fits over the uh female connector so we really don't want to block it any further than that but if it goes over there i can just uh trim it off perfect so i have the bike finished for

dual

battery

parallel this is what it looks like so you can see i flipped that connector around my parallel connector now i have both these cables coming up from the bottom here and then there's my cable i have a tie wrapped up here and i have it going into the bag you can barely even notice it's there now i have 27.5 amp hours now i'm going to show you how you use a switch to change between the two batteries this is really convenient if you have a 52 volt

battery

and the hemi way 48 volt

battery

because you cannot run those in parallel you have to use a single pole double throw switch uh and the easiest way to do that is use a three-way house switch this is the kind of switch where you use two switches to control one light and there's not an on off on and off on the switch the only problem with using this i'm going to have to figure out how to insulate it and mount it and it's not going to look that clean of an installation if you ask me but we're going to try it so the way we wire this is there is one screw on the switch that is different than the other screws this one is black and that is your output that...
was going to go to the controller and then the two gold or copper colored are the inputs that we wire the two positives from the

battery

then all we do is wire all the negatives are going to be wired together those don't get switched we don't even put them on the ground here we're just connecting the positives to here the two batteries here and the output here uh real briefly the wire i'm using is called silicon wire it's very flexible there's a lot of strands inside and the insulation is very durable and it comes red and black you can get just five feet 12 gauge is what i'm using from amazon and i'll leave a link what i have here is the switch wired with all the positive cables connected all of the negatives are going to be connected together so i have to find a way of splicing these three negatives together and not have it touch any of the positives obviously so what i decide to do here is i'm just going to use some regular heat shrink that i had laying around here so i'm going to put one piece of heat shrink over that side i'm going to use double heat shrink just to make sure it doesn't wear out or anything so now i'm gonna just kind of do a splice right there and then slide the heat shrink over it so wish me luck smoking that's first piece of heat shrink now i'm gonna slide over the second piece of heat shrink just to make sure so now i have the switch all wired and i owned it out and it's wired correctly i...
have to figure out a way to insulate this and mount it on the bike so i think i'm going to do is put it inside of an inner tube so first i'm going to poke a hole in the middle here well another thing i'm gonna do i'm gonna get rid of these tabs i don't need these tabs on here i'm gonna go out and cut these off i don't need those and once this goes in here that's gonna fit tight over the switch enough that it should uh keep water out and then i just plan on tie wrapping these around the wires here and leaving enough slack in here that this switch works and then i'm going to have this tie wrapped to the down tube now let's reach down and flip my switch when i want to switch batteries so i can't keep this too tight or else the switch won't it might pull the switch down automatically you know so leave a little slack in here to make sure that the switch is going to work that's the best idea i can come up with to insulate this so this is our finished switch assembly i've got it uh a tube tie wrapped on there i'm using a three inch tube is what i had laying around i tried a tighter tube and it didn't work you have to have a lot of slop on it i changed my wire lengths of my cable once i went out to the bike if you have too much wire hanging down uh there's no place to put it you're just going to have it bulging out so you want to have these exact lengths and then i was going to put a cable coming out the top and...
then use my extension cable uh that i had from my parallel that i made and the extension cable just a male to a female but i just decided to make it one long cable going up to my uh bag into my external

battery

again the two

battery

connectors are male and the output is the female and the output is the one you have wired to the oddball pin input from each

battery

and we don't use the ground and also uh i forgot to mention you can find 15 or 20 amp switches at your hardware store and do not use a 15 amp switch because we're probably drawing more than 15 amps and it wouldn't last very long the 20 amp i wouldn't even use it'll last for a while i'm sure but what i have in here i went out and i got a 30 amp industrial switch they will not sell them at your local hardware store you have to get them in industrial supply or online so let's go out and fit this on the bike and see what it looks like let's take a look at the hemi way with the switch installed now i could have put some heat shrink over these red wires and then you wouldn't be able to see them that would look better but you can see the two wires coming up down here to the two connectors right there here's our cable out to the back

battery

going into the bag and so i disconnected the back

battery

and i figured out that up is the back

battery

and down is the front

battery

at least that's the way i wired mine looks a little rough but it works this last point i cannot stress enough...
if you make one mistake while you're

wiring

you're gonna fry something uh most likely if you wire your

battery

backwards you will fry your controller or if you plug it into your

battery

charger first you'll fry your

battery

charger so you have to check and double check and triple check your

wiring

remember that the connectors have a plus side and a minus side and that's the first thing is the red wire going to all the plus sides on all of your cables and connectors and then own them all do not make a mistake and i know this is a fairly complicated process so i decided to put together a kit uh that will make it a lot easier to wire if you want to run

dual

battery

i'm not going to put together a kit that uses the switch i showed you how to wire that but i'm not going to put together a kit for that my kit is going to include a bolton e-bike connector you do not have to use this i did not use one of these connectors when i uh just wired up my bike i just cut the existing connector in half and that gave me barely enough room to get my wires out if you use this cable again it's the same connection at the controller now you have a whole bunch of wire coming up that you have plenty of room to uh wire your connectors and get them in and out and then the cable that's hanging off of your

battery

tray is going to be this long and all you have to do is cut off the connector and splice one of the black connectors on there and then you have plenty of room on...
the

battery

and you won't be limited like i was with these short cables so i'm going to include this cable but i'm going to put a black connector on it i'm going to put heat shrink over the wire so you can't see that because that's kind of ugly when you see it on your bike i'm going to include the special parallel connector that has a male on both sides online on amazon or ebay you only can find them that have both males on one side so i'm going to include this i am going to include an extension cable two foot so that will get you up to the back rack and then i'm going to include two of the female connectors you need to finish the

wiring

so the this cable is going to go on the bottom your extension cable plugs in here and then all you need to do is on your uh

battery

your existing

battery

plugs in down here and i'll give you the connector for that and then your rack

battery

that's in your bag needs one more connector and i'll supply you with that and then this is every single thing you need to run parallel right here and i put this together as a kit i put ten of them together i've ordered ten of these cables from bolton e-bikes and i've talked to kyle and told him what i'm doing he's cool with it and then if they sell i'll put together some more kits but if they don't sell uh i'll stop listing them but it's going to be on ebay i know that was a long video but i wanted to cover every single thing...
that there was about the hemingway

battery

wiring

so now you know every single thing that i know about the hemi way

dual

battery

hope you enjoyed the video and i will see you on down the trail