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Harley-Davidson Big Twin 4 speed Transmission Rebuild With Frank Kaisler

May 09, 2020
good morning, we are here at 4 hrs per cycle and beautiful Pacoima California to do an article on 4

speed

big

twin

transmission

, basically what we are going to do is take this

transmission

out, take it apart, show you what to look for and then show you how to put it back together. put it together some of the procedures that we are going to do or that we will have to do outside of this building mainly because it requires special care for certain aspects that we will show you and point out as we go, this is a 1965 Panhead that belongs to our friend Al Keaton , who just received it.
harley davidson big twin 4 speed transmission rebuild with frank kaisler
The thing had been outside for like 20 years open to the elements. It's very dirty and he took part of us apart so we could easily access the transmission. Follow us, it's not difficult at all. There's nothing you can't do around the house as far as taking it apart and putting it back together, you just have to pay attention to the details and you'll be fine and there won't be any leaks. That's the main thing people complain about. leak free, let's start now, okay, the first thing you want to do is transmit, you'll notice that the primary inter is already there, but Ally is releasing it, so we're going to hand it out. four nuts and bolts that hold the transmission to the inner primary and there are three bolts to hold the inner primary to the engine once they are removed you can simply pull this course and it comes off.
harley davidson big twin 4 speed transmission rebuild with frank kaisler

More Interesting Facts About,

harley davidson big twin 4 speed transmission rebuild with frank kaisler...

He notices how nice and clean it is after sitting outside. for 20 years we're going to polish this thing, clean all the gasket surfaces before putting them back on, the transmissions actually clamped to a plate, the plate bolts to the frame, we'll take out four bolts to hold the plate to the frame and then there's a fifth bracket right under the kicker cover, so when you kicked the motorcycle it wouldn't put any pressure on the transmission, the mainshaft, so all the bolts are 9/16 hex head, okay, we'll take the transmission. There are four bolts here that hold it on like we said, there are two on the front, the bolts come from the bottom and thread into the plate, they have a fine 3/8 thread and they are a little nasty because it's been sitting for so long. but the parts cleaner takes care of that easily, my partner mr.
harley davidson big twin 4 speed transmission rebuild with frank kaisler
White has already loosened and removed the other side bolts and the reason we took a plate with the transmission is because at the bottom of the transmission, as you will see, there are four bolts that index it to the plate, there is not enough room here where The top clears the frame for the bolts to clear the plate, so it's always easier to take the plate with it and then remove it once the drivetrain is clear. The frame is okay, that's ready to come back now here under the support. We'll see a big pile of grunge, there's an actual bolt head underneath that we're going to scrape off some of the grunge so we can get the socket or wrench.
harley davidson big twin 4 speed transmission rebuild with frank kaisler
You can see these things coming out, it's always good if you have to. Ride a motorcycle to clean it really well before trying this, but as you can see, this thing hasn't worked for several years, okay, we should be able to get in there, oh, don't think things have ever come out since then. This one, this left rear one, is a little bit more difficult because you can't put a bushing in because of these reinforcing ribs that index the primary cover that's on the outside, take the drive cable out of the engine

speed

ometer, okay, we've got all four. five bolts holding the transmission on the frame, we're going to slide it out on this side as a unit, it's like you sit down, okay, now we're going to transfer this to the bench, okay, we take the transmission out, now I can show you. the front plate mount now this is a thru hole for three both have a 3/8 fine thread the threads on the transmission mounting plate the rear mounts are welded to the frame and are drilled with a 3/8 fine thread 8 and welded right to the frame to locate the transmission mounting plate, here is a fifth bracket.
You'll notice it has a slot there and it's also a 3/8 bolt that goes up to the transmission. It's slotted like this so you can get something. The drive adjustment on the plate back and forth to the primary cover fits exactly as it should or if you are using a belt drive you can simply put the belt drive on and adjust the drive back to get the proper drive tension. belt. for your application, you may notice that it's nice and dirty, we'll have this all clean before we put it back in your perfect time to clean it now that you can do it right, let's move on to the transmission in the vise. the bank is fine, we have the four speeds here on the bank, it will be much easier to separate it.
The first thing we want to do is remove the speedometer transmission cable here that bolts to the transmission and of course this is just as rubbery as Everything else, you can tell, it has a little square on the end of the cable, the other end It goes to the dashboard and activates a speedometer. We'll set it aside for Wes to clean up. The next thing we do is remove the clutch arm. just undo the washer and the nut and you have a square here so these arms just oh this is good you notice this chef comes with that that's not good the axle has another square down here that has the powered arm that pushes the The thrown bearing will show you when we get to the test side deck, we will have to fix it.
The next thing we need to do is remove the plate from the bottom of the transmission, which also looks good and there are four 3/8 dead nuts and washers. hold this plate you will notice here is the fifth bracket here see the bolts locate the transmission on the plate and this will allow it to slide back and forth on the frame to get your fit. It has been like this since 36, but since 65 it has the ears to mount the primary internal cover 36 to 63 I think or 64 they did not have the primary internal cover which was solid that mounted the transmission solidly to the engine you can see that it has not been there for a while while it's full of junk, that should be a good quarter of an inch a month, another job for Wes, okay, to make it easier for us to take apart, we'll take the transmission and put it on this plate and you better share that plate first.
This is a replica of a transmission mounting plate, it is made by Jim's machine in Camarillo, California. It comes with this little piece of angle iron that would hold it in a vise. I put this piece of metal on it that I've had for years, so I could grip it differently in the vise. I could tear it like this. I could turn it this way in any direction I wanted to make it easier for me. A plate like this can be made from a quarter inch flat plate, just take the transmission mount. Plate, place it on top, trace, drill some holes and you're good, the transmission continues like this.
We'll take a couple of nuts and put them back on to position it and prevent it from falling. Since we mounted the transmission on the plate on the bench, which was pretty solid, you can move it. We're going to remove the top of the tops held by ten countersunk flat head Allen bolts, which collect dirt and grease, sometimes stay on. Your talent is to see all the way inside the bushing, so I'd like to go through them and clean them with a sharp tip to remove any dirt. You will notice that this screw is a little taller. and it has a slot for a flat screwdriver, dad, it's breathable, there's a hole that goes all the way down that we're going to show you and that's how the transmission works because as the transmission gears spin in the oil, they're going to create a little bit of a little bit. of foam and during the winter when it's cold, condensation will build up in the transmission, but as you go down the highway at 60 miles per hour, the condensation will turn to steam and exit the transmission through that hole in the transmission. ventilation in case I'm going to protect the cameras here.
I just take a little wiping with a straw and pop these in to work. Each of these screws is the same length, except for these ones, which are longer because they have to go through this part. from the top of the ratchet, okay, damn, I may have to resort to the other one. I don't think this has ever come apart, to be honest, these are quarter 24 threads. Okay, while we were out for that commercial break, I went through and loosened all the bolts. make it a little easier and we don't have to take forever to get them out Franco, one of the things when we get to inspect this we'll look for stripped thread holes and since these are a quarter twenty-four, it would require a different set of healing tools, but this being which is, I don't think it's ever been a part, I think there will be a strip on both threads, but we'll find out, okay, we've removed all the screws except these two on the top, but here's that svenska I wanted to show you, you can see the air escapes here and then this side, a little side port here that always goes closer to this doubt pin, there are two pins, place the top towards the box, it always goes. to the closest one on the kicker side, okay now, so I reduce down and these long screws up you can see how they're different and you can see how the dirt and stuff just attacks them and in fact, if you don't scrape them off, You can remove the Allen screws before you can take a good bite out of them.
Okay, that's the ten screws. Now let's remove the top. We'll have to use the persuader. The persuader would be used here. I'm going to need a A piece of wood, well, I could put a piece of brass in here. I don't know if you can see it. I'll spin it. What I'm doing is putting the piece of brass here and right here on these shoulders to loosen it up. You can see we've already loosened up a bit. One thing you don't want to do is you don't want to intrude on their top maybe not. Where did this day open to me?
That's what it looks like inside, only messy. What I like to do is have it in neutral, this is your neutral indicator and not an indicator, this is a detent that allows the drum to index in each gear and this is your neutral indicator light, but when Shift fork trends are between gears, you know. neutral, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put this back in slightly and what that does is a position where the shifter forks where it should be with the top in neutral, then you take this and pull it out nice and easy and that will let you know what it looks like inside and I can see here with the help of my flashlight this is your shift fork 3/4 third gear here fourth gear here this shift fork should be centered between the two years and that lever of shifts the fork looks perfect here this is your first second shifter because that's your first gear this is your second gear and you look down here and there's a dog measuring it since we put the transmission on the stop, it gives you the position of this shifter clutch between first and second should be centered if we look down here, which is very close to first gear, we see how it moves back and forth, but it was almost touching first gear, so when we reassemble we're going to move this shift fork to the second gear side maybe 10 15 mil to make sure it's centered another thing we need to pay attention to is the back and forth countershaft assembly he's here that noise what we're going to do that's dictated by the end game by a thrust washer that's on the chef group end of the counter between first gear in the case, I always like to measure that before I take anything apart to see what kind of kit comes with it, although there is oil in there and you always set the dry end to that end.
The place should be between seven and twelve thousand, so I'll take a twelve thousand fuel gauge and it'll go right in, so I would have to adjust that, not much, just a few thousand, let's go back to 7 like this and that goes in Nice. okay and we're ready to take the rest of the shifter force. Next, we will remove the side cover to remove the shifter forks. We have to remove this sprocket because the shifter fork chef comes out to the left side of the transmission and the sprocket is usually in a way to take the shifter.
Now there's a little set screw that we need to uncover right there. Well, while we were on the way, we had to give it a little heat around this set screw to get it. it comes loose without ruining everything and we almost caught fire you missed that part try not to do it that set screw comes off you can see it has a little doubt and I'll show you where that fits on the shifter fork like I said we just put it this before by hand to show you that there is a hole on this side of the case that you would take a probe and push the shift fork shaft out from the side where it's been long enough that I don't think that. wants to move easily, well, as I said before, we are going to have to remove the transmission sprocket so that the shift fork shaft comes out of the left side of the case.
What I have here is a sprocket shaft bushing, this one was made by Jim's camarillo machine. is heCorrect size for your locknut and it has left hand thread so you need to turn it clockwise to remove it. One of the features of this socket is that it has a half inch drive so you can use an impact gun if necessary, but only a little. a normal ratchet would work fine so to make it easier I would lock it as both forks of the shifter move back and forth you could lock it in two years so here it is in neutral you put it in first and into forward and suddenly it crashes.
I'll give you the attention you need to remove it with a ratchet, so we'll take this rocket out of fourth gear and set it aside. There are a lot of recent things here where the shifter fork shaft would come out from the shifter fork. It's very difficult to get the axle out in this setup because of all the grease and other stuff we're going to use. Remove the kicker cover and there's a little hole in the housing that we can put a pin in and push the derailleur or derailleur axle in. the fork to the side, so now let's turn our attention to the kicker cover, okay?
We have more. Of the hardware that was removed to remove the bottom bracket cover, you will notice that the owner has now removed the pedal spring. It is usually a good idea to disengage the pedal spring before removing the cover because it has a spring and as you remove it, it will come off. turning it will probably catch your hand and hurt you which we don't like, like I said you'll notice when the bolt came out when we put it back together we'll put green Loctite on it. the bolt and we put it on before putting the kicker cover on one of the problems, usually when using two on a kicker cover, if it is difficult to get off, if the bike has ever sunk at some point in the past, you may one of these bolts has been bent. and that way you just have to walk without damaging yourself, you ask a surface that will adapt anyway and then a kick recovers, it should come out like this and here's your bearing, look, it has a notch, the notch actually has weight. down this little arm, this is what the clutch alarm shaft came out of, it would come down to fit into that square and as you move the clutch back and forth it would depress the pull that carries the gate to disengage or engage the clutch that looks good. except it has a little bit of rust on it, this is your starter gear when you press the kickstarter it would spin like this and you can see the teeth and these teeth would mesh together and allow this to come out and spin the main motor. shaft turning the clutch turns the primary starting the engine when you release the kickstarter and it comes back to this stop it stops here there's a plate back here that plate will push in your floating ratchet gear stick my fingers in here pushing it back so it doesn't meshes with the main shaft when the pedal turns and that plate disappears, the ratchet gear comes out, it meshes with the main shaft and there are two petals that move downward, it will rotate the main shaft of the transmission turning the primary started and this It looks Well, it's some kind of pin that we're working on, we'll have to investigate what was here in the feeder.
When I get to this point, I always like to take my finger, drag it over here and see if it has any type. of metal scraps and this has you a little bit of silver it's not bad if you cut your finger on a flake a metal flake then you have a problem and this is not bad at all it's quite normal for what 25 years of use, you can see if you get closer now that the silver colors there at least aren't milky like a milkshake, if that were the case you would have water here that would break down the oil and start to oxidize really bad. all good now here's that hole I was talking about earlier that goes straight to the shift fork shaft, we're going to take a little thumbtack, put it in there and we can hit the shift fork shaft to get it out and see, we'll take one of My little Allen drivers, someone is going to have a fit about that, but you can see that shifter.
The fork axle comes out a little more convincingly with a twist press. Okay, the shifter. The fork shaft is outside. There will be a second pull to remove it. You can see that the gear lever. Forks. fell down this is your 1/2 shift fork look this will be where you move the dog back and forth that's in the engagement area it's in very good condition it has a little wear here but it's not bad but notice how this one looks like it has like a shoulder coming back here it's different from this one you'll be able to see the difference we put it in and we pull this one and generally what you have to do to get this one out because the speedometer drive gear is right in front of where the fork lives from the shift lever, you usually have to engage the clutch shift lever in a gear to get this out directly.
You'll notice this one has the same wear patterns, which is in good condition, but you'll notice the shifter fork isn't as thick. up here let me get the other one, you can see the difference, you also see the difference here, the half has a larger shift area on the clutch, the shifter clutch, then the three, four and one, okay, I have them there, take the rest of the output look at it looking for chefs I take my nail and I just drag it in four catches on anything, maybe you can remove it with sandpaper or maybe you have to replace it, you can also see this little nick here, That notch is indexed into this hole where the set screw is and that little peg on the set screw will fit into that notch to prevent the shifter fork from coming off on its own.
Later models were used as an Eve ring here, but basically the drivetrain is the same everywhere. their life until they reached a different peak, which will only be for a few years, okay, well, we've already taken off all the covers, now it's time to take out the gears. The first thing we will do is remove the countershaft. gear group held in place by a lock nut or nut and locking plate on the left or right side under the kicker cover. It has a small tab that tilts once you get the specified torque so just take a small chisel Bend the locking tab out of the way and check if the locking tab has three small tabs so you can always get a flat part to lock it .
Sometimes people like to fold more than one tab flat, but it's not necessary. The nut is a seven eight of which we have a socket right here. I think these only good things are like thirty or forty foot pounds and of course I'm wrong here we go okay there's our nut and here's a little lock plate that just now Notice the lock plate has a flat part that indexes into the countershaft. It also has a flat part on this lock plate. Here see how it is flat and rubs against the main support plate that prevents it from rotating, so you don't have to worry. about your shaft turning inside the case now just give it a little loving touch here's the kit I was talking about it has the same type of plane there now the countershaft itself and the gear assembly just above the needle bearings there is a set of needle bearings roller bearings on each end of the countershaft when I take them apart and you separate I would like to keep each set of bearings on the respective end another thing people are going to tell me how about is it okay after using the Wrong tools to push? we take out the countershaft, we take it out, you can probably see here where it rusted inside the counter safety group, but where the bearings mount on this end here and this here looks pretty good, you'll know better once we put a pallet of 3 m and clean it. above, but now we can take the chef group off the counter.
It usually comes out straight like this. You'll see here are the needle bearings that hold the first end of the gear. There are also needle bearings to support the other end. This beam I am leading you. Look, there's a little bit of rust on this washer that captures said until Barents doesn't come out beyond the case, so what we're going to do is carefully place this here because I like to keep the bearings on the respective ends. until you have a chance to inspect them well, the counter safes, look in here to see if there's anything strange floating around, there's nothing, so now we're going to take out the main shaft to do that, first we're going to remove the four screws that hold the main shaft ball bearing in place and since we left we saw that one of the screws was crushed and a little bent and that's where that pin came from, where actually that's what caused the damage, was pulling the The pin came out of the back of the kickstarter gear that fits into the cover.
This is an oil deflector and is attached to the plate with one of the screws. The oil, as it spins, would hit this little channel and feed over the top of the Europa throughout the bearing to keep the vent lubricated, okay, let's go for that fourth screw that was damaged by the doubt pin coming out of the back of the starter gear, let me get this out of here and you can see more. that's good English, we actually had to take a chisel and open the screwdriver slot, but if you look at it this way you can see how it's bent and it was actually crushed a couple of times by the Dell pin that came out. replace that, okay, in theory, now this is all loose, we can move the main shaft assembly to get to the third gear retaining ring that's inside here, that's what we're going to do, we're going to touch this there .
Wow, you see how the plates moved out, in here, let me turn this over real quick so you guys can see it better, okay, we rotate the transmission case, we move the main shaft out, now we're going to remove this ring third gear retention. Although it allows the main shaft, third gear and clutch to be removed from the shift lever, the third gear is held in place by a snap ring that fits into a slot in the main shaft that can be removed with screwdrivers as best as you can, we start the best we can. look here, I'm moving it with the screwdriver blade and you're going to turn it, make sure it's completely out of the slot and slide it as far as you can into fourth gear, then you can take the main shaft out.
By removing the retaining ring, as you can see, the third gear slides on and off the main shaft now, if you can look down, here's the mold I was talking about before, if this was a three speed third and reverse or reverse gear would go. here, but that casting prevents us from completely removing the main shaft with its equipment, but now we can pull and lower this. Sometimes this counter gets a little stuck, I mean, the custard team, okay, what was holding us up was the first gear thrust spotter had fallen into a small channel or the drain bolt, so we take it out now, this thing will come out like it was made for you to go, of course, I did it to better remove third gear like this. and it makes you have to come out of another drive and look like this here's where your third gear goes then there's a washer and here's a slot for a snap ring the third gear holes in the main shaft this is your gear cluster for a second your main shaft ball bearing uses a floor plate a floating starter gear and this is your fixed starter gear that will actually engage when the main shaft rotates this surface here from here to here goes through fourth gear there is a casing inside of that and the only like a thousand half free space here and you look for any kind of record with your fingernail, cross it and check it, but we'll go further once we get everything clean, so take this, put it aside and we'll take it out the leftover third gear washer. indexes on the head chef and here's the snap ring let's throw out the snap ring the way you always replace a snap ring there's no reason to take a chance on a part of a dollar right now we're looking inside there's nothing like except for fourth gear right here that just slides in and out of the race now this is the one that has 44 roller bearings kneel barons that roll on this and you want to make sure you get them all out and we're going to take this and leave it to one side and keep those bearings separate from the countershaft bearings, which makes this easy.
In fact, you can see. I don't know if you can go in there and see that the roller bearings are still on the inside of the race and we'll do that. just take them out and put them here, now the rest fell in here, so we're just going to grab a little magnetic screwdriver. Where do we take this magnet that Wes has carefully provided for us and we'll just drag it in here, okay? I'm going to remove the main seal that seals the fourth gear to the case. This seal is the biggest source of leaks in a large 4-speed

twin

transmission.
You can see here how the metal shines on the bottom. has been going outmore oil and just taking. no grease, we keep the grease away this is your seal race this piece of metal here and you can there's a notch in that race where a little L wrench would index this race to fourth gear so the race rotates inside the seal a Lots of people you don't pay attention to that L key and this one was missing so what happens is 4th gear will turn inside the stroke and you just won't see anything the seal lip is on the inside so it will turn with 4th gear and It will contain the oil in the case, so let's just push the seal out.
You see the seal starting to come off or expel air. Come here. You can see the stroke of the inner seal. You see these lines. That's where the roller bearings contain the inside of the race. Here's a small piece of cork gasket that helps seal the oil that comes out so it doesn't come out the outside of the co and we want to clean it up before a closer inspection, but the only thing to look for is any type of pitting on your run. or on the bearings you also notice a 4th gear the bearings here a lot of times this will get punctured and you want to make sure there are no pits or scars or like I said anything you feel with your fingernail is bad this seems to be in excellent condition and once we've cleaned all this up, we'll put fourth gear on the mainshaft and feel what the bushings are like, the last thing we need to take out of the box or two things.
Sorry, there's a the speedometer drive wheel is held on by a screw and a lot of dirt, this takes out the speedometer drive gear in the counter cluster, so that's it except we're going to turn it over and remove the speedometer drive bolt. drain the little one through dinner and what we need is our little drain tray. I'm going to go out here for a second here's the drain bolt hidden behind there we go, which one inspect this is this boss here to make sure it's nice and flat and no ridges or let's just put the bolt in or let's drain.
Bolton has a small shoulder that will show better when we go to put it on, but it would have a small copper washer with a shoulder that indexes and the shoulder would seal against the surface of the bolt and this drain surface and what is easier to show once we let's get everything clean, so now let's have the parts cleaner clean everything, then we'll inspect everything, look at the bearing surfaces, see if it fits and all that, and prepare our new gaskets and seals to put it back together, easy, okay , we had our washer wash. all the mung of our case and now we're going to prepare it to make sure it doesn't leak when we put it back together.
The first thing I would like to do. I would like to take a stone like this. a little bit of 3 and 1/2 oil and rub it along the surface of the gasket, this will remove the burrs that will keep the gasket off the surface of the gasket and that, with the leak, then I take a drill of hand with a small sink and simply bevel the top of the bolt holes so there are no little risers holding the gasket surface just like that. I also go in here where the support plates attach and do the same thing, okay, getting that far will take the stone again and start working. on the gasket surface of the side cover and all I'm doing is just rubbing it lightly while maintaining contact with both sizes of gasket surface so there are no burrs.
Turn the case over and look at all the mounting bolts and these are interference fit bolts to keep the oil in and when I refer to interference fit they drill and tap the case 3/8 16, the bolts have a thread of 3/8 16, but it's a little off, so when you screw the bolt in, it actually seals into the case, they make bolts in different sizes 7 16s if you have to drill an inch or a half, another thing to have in mind is the 5th bolt many times, if a transmission was loose on the frame the vibration would cause this to have a bit of a raised edge, you would take the stone and just rub it until you got a nice cross shaped finish, same with your rainbow world.
Now this is where we have a problem. Part of the problem with the old dream coming to light was that the threads stripped and it has a little bit of material removed, so you'll never get a good seal, you never tighten the bolt, we're going to have to make a propeller, which which we will do at home and bring it back tomorrow, that's a thread of thirteen and a half and then we go. here and look at the studs, this mounts the inner primary and this boss here fits inside so it places everything nice and tight, well there are always birds in here, we take a small flat file, remove all the burrs, make sure everything is good and look up.
I can see a ridge or groove that was actually polished into the case from the rear drive chain when the sprocket was loosened, the chain was moving up and down and down and rubbing the top of the case as well when we put the sprocket on. primary cover. on a main cover, I'll show you the bottom where that thing came down here, oh this isn't bad, I wouldn't even bother welding it up unless you're building a show bike, come here, take the stone and rub its surface right there for the speedometer drive again while it's on the bottom, I would look for any type of burrs here because this is where the drive plate sits nicely.
We also inspect each hole to make sure it has threads if it doesn't. it has to heal according to this one, it's great, not a single thread is missing there and you also want to look inside our counter shaft bushings, the counter chef comes by here and indexes from this side, look, see if they're marked or worn excessively, look. in your main run you look for pitting or scoring or something like that this is in excellent condition and as far as I'm concerned another cleaning and repair of the drain bolt hole and we're good to go we have to clean we'll show it. tomorrow or show you if we put the propeller on what it looks like the drain bolt itself is in good shape, it was missing the little washer that we have in our kit and while we're at it, we might as well show you the kit that we have.
Did we get it from Jim's machine in Camarillo, California? It is a truly luxury kit. It comes in a box with almost every type of locking tab hub seal you need to

rebuild

your transmission up to 84. I think so. bushings first gear third gear kickstarter gear fourth gear all the little lock rings and things that will pop out use as we go full set of gaskets and seals for both the starter gear and the top gear I mean the cover top the top ratchet this main seal the skills for a clutch hub nut and it even includes a new countershaft, so we're ready, we already cleaned our washer, we did our countershaft group, we inspected the inner race of this and it's fine, nice, we cleaned those holes or anything else looks good, this is within tolerance, so it's ready to go back.
The next thing we need to do is take apart the group gear on the main shaft because we are going to replace the ball bearing inside the case to do this. which we hold it in a vise and have to remove the ratchet gear which requires a special puller I have had a poor Harley Davidson for years but you can use a poor press bearing separator to do the same job you will have to run away and get the factory tool, we'll show you that in a second, we've got the mainshaft clamped with a set of Elune jaws to prevent it from being damaged and what we're going to do is remove the mainshaft. nut has like a little locking tab what you do is put it on and then bend the tab up to keep the nut in place a little chisel action like that a 7/8 socket nut comes off a little 7/8 gland tab comes off lock is now fixed The ratchet gear is attached to the main shaft, you usually have to have a special puller to do what I have, but you can get away with using a bearing separator like a snap bone or something where it downward pressures, place the bearing separator here. like a clam, pull it out and off the Harley part, it comes with this little hub that fits here on your main shaft so you don't ruin your main shaft when you use the puller.
The pool looks like this, it has two sides. one with a small flat slot than the other with these two small pins together like this, the flat slot is to take out the ratchet gear, the pins are falling out, believe it or not, generator drive gears, so what you should do is to put them together like this take the sleeve, tap it down past your slot here, take the T-handle, slide it in to engage the slots and make sure it centers on your main shaft that way, while I discarded it, that It means it's loose, we adjust the gears in here and what.
What we're going to do is just tap this like this, remove the sleeve with two wrenches, two wrenches. You'll notice that this has a little ball bearing on its circumference, that's where your puke bearing will be indexed and locked so it spins just like the main champion, okay, to take the keys out, you just take them out like this and they're square keys, not blade, then you are floating. The ratchet gear comes out immediately. What we're going to do is clean the oil from here. Take your tension. jump in clean this and miss it put it back in and feel it see how much it wobbles if you wobble excessively you can replace the bushing here this thing is in very good shape your bearing retainer plate comes off and here is your bearing of balls and they actually make a little noise so I always like to replace these ones which are cheap they're only 20 bucks for that one bearing so to remove it we have to undo this nut that undoes the locking tab, this one It's an 8 of one in three. a deep socket if it's way above the main derailleur actually a 3/8 is the same as the top 4 cube nuts but we won't get into that nice and tight that's like 40 foot pounds so what we'll do is to get another one.
Bite, no problem, that comes off. The slam tab comes off and the locking tabs have three little bent pieces of steel that actually index into the slots on the main shaft and when you put it in there, everywhere the flat part of the nut lines up, you just bend it . Now lift it up to remove the bearing and a gear comes off the cluster. The correct bearing comes off. Reuse the housing, but not the bearing. The group gear will come off like this. You can now inspect the main shaft for any type of wear. Since we have the room. the gear out and the fourth gear bushing would slide in here like this and you would grab it and see how much it moves.
This one has mm, maybe a couple thousand, we have a bug. I think there are thousands of specks and half, we can always insert a new one. We get it, but this one looks great, no gouges, no scars, no rust, and here we are, third gear rods, no scuffs or pitting of any kind, same way here where the Kickstarter floating gear goes , so it looks good, the only thing more. What I'd like to do with this is put it on a lathe between centers and turn it to make sure it's not bent at all, but looking at the condition of the bike I don't think so, I don't think that's the case. down state, but what we'll do is we'll probably put it in a drill motor before we put it back together and we'll just turn it around slowly and look at it, any kind of bent action will appear very quickly and that's it, we've got everything.
As an aside, the bearing comes out of this and since we're not using it, we hit it like this, we'll reuse it. This disappears. You can hear how dry it is in there, which means it will probably last a little longer, but. Why did you take it apart? It never hurts to put one in that bearing. It doesn't come in your

rebuild

kit. You would have to go to a bearing shop and do a cross reference. I just bought a new one for this job. I think 16 dollars for that bearing in a bearing place, okay, with the bench behind them, we're going to go to the top, take it apart and clean it, inspect it and look at it, okay, we have the top that I would like doing this in a vise with the locking jaws just because it's easy and when you start trying to loosen the hardware it's nice and stable the first thing is to take the cover off boy are you too tight and then the shift arm changes the ohm to have the three screws on two pins that locate it, the cover is the same way, here is a loom housing, it actually houses the ratcheting mechanism with six screws, five of the screws thread directly into the top , these six screws have a nut on the end to keep them tight.
You'll notice that the sixth screw is a little shorter because it doesn't thread into the case, it just goes through the plate and then the nut retains it nicely, although the aluminum case should come off with a little coaxing like that and it has a gasket, set it aside and here is the ratchet mechanism of your racket andhere's two springs and here's your pause that actually catches the shaft to turn the drum and you see how everything comes back okay, that's the first speed half way it's neutral second third fourth you want to take the ratchet part and there's two springs there , so you have to be careful, just come in here and worry about this screwdriver here are your legs that catch the chef's slots to turn the drum here are your springs for the return action that push this little square peg while turning it in one direction , this spring will compress, this will come up and catch it with its little edges right there and rotate the drum and then we return it to the neutral position so it can go up or down. on a gear train, okay, there is a screw that locates the plate at the top, but notice that here where these slots are there is a small slot in the plate that lines up with one of the slots in the shaft to make sure that everything is centered and it's any gear you can, you can be in any gear except neutral, to do that, the screw is right here, hold this plate all the way to the top and it comes off.
I'm going to speed up, I'll come back here many times. I have seen these. Well this one seems to be broken here, see how the coils are very tight, pump it up and look, yeah see it's always cheap insurance that when you put these springs on, when you rebuild one of these the plate comes off, just remove the gasket . and that's your ratcheting mechanism now, since we have everything separated, I always like to take this and put it back in here and make sure the bushing is nice and tight, what's next we do is take our slack off.
Are you a neutral indicator switch? When there is a small bump on the gear and then when you push, the ball makes contact with the two lectroids that indicate the neutral light. One of them is the cam follower which actually puts tension on the drum to keep it inside. gear and it has a small lock ring inside here is a small barrel with a V follower and given the condition of this follower and these ramps here will help improve the transmission of errors or change the bed if it doesn't move easily someone put it back together we will take a small 3m pad and polish it and polish the end of this follower to make it smoother.
Here's a follower that has a spring and I like to polish this end. Here you see where the shine was rubbed off, so Polish this, it will continue on those ramps, it's really nice and mine comes off now, if we need to, we'll take the drum out. The drum has an axle and is held in place with this set screw, as is the shifter fork. shaft, there is a pin just like a chef's pin for fork, now there is no through hole to push the shaft out on the other end, it has like a little slot that you can catch and release.
I've seen guys who had these. They separate and what they will do is once the shaft is out, they will make a hole in there so they can get them out. Easier work. The chef comes out. I'm talking about the shift drum shaft and it has a little arc ring that would go in here to keep the oil from leaking out of there, so you just move this, now it's a nice tight fit, there's almost no end play like that, what you want to see It's some kind of irritation when the slots, these slots are where the shifter fork caps fit. and they will move the forks of the shifter back and forth as it rotates, this was a break condition, you will notice that this tooth when the drum has a small notch, that is your alignment mark with the gear, it is on the end of the axle, which Next we'll take out the last piece that comes out of the top is the axle held in place by this cotter pin when we use our handy dandy cotter pin pouring kit that aside like this, now you have to take the axle out. , which is like a little press fit, a lot of press fit, what's in a horrible crust there, what we're doing when I let it soak and take it out tomorrow when we go to reassemble and you can see how we're going to have what to happen and dress all this with the stone and countersink clean all this and we will stone it and check all the threaded holes when we put it back together well, the last thing we are going to do is remove the starter gear from the starter end cover, we already took the clutch with these rods out, it came out with a clutch rod, so now we're just going to hold the gear shift square in the vise and this has another locking tab right here, okay, here's the locking tab that We're doubling down.
Ok, the map, let's touch on this, this is the same type of wardrobe on the chef's counter, it has the circle with a little bit of a plane, here it comes out and the axis is there, remember we had that peg that was. It broke when we took it apart, it should have been there. I'm going to have to put it in, the chef just comes out like this and we're going to clean it up and then there are two shell casings in that protective cover, they look pretty good. There is a little rust between the bushings, there is a ring that helped keep them in so they don't leak.
These things usually wear out very quickly, so when we've cleaned everything up, we'll put it back on without the O-ring and check. the fit, but now I can and it's nice and smooth with little to no wear, that's it, everything else now is just cleaning up and we put it back together. Today we're going to start reassembling the top of the ratchet we've already made. We take the stone to all the joint surfaces, check all the threads and mark the timing and mark when this shifter shaft gear. The first thing we do is put the drum back on top after we have marked the alignment gear on the top, we only worry about this. inside, remember how fun it was to get it out, okay, it's not that complicated to line up these marks, I just have to do it a couple of times to make sure and you notice that we have made a mark on the drum that comes out here and then the marks on the chamber of the shifter marked in yellow here, so as we rotate the drum we want to make sure that that tooth on the drum falls between the two gear teeth on the shifter.
We've got the timing marks lined up between the shifter gear and On the shifter drum, we put a new O-ring on the drum shaft and we're just starting it, so we're going to finish applying some grease to it. on the O-ring so it doesn't break. We will do it. We'll look down here, that's where our assemblies go to keep the part from coming out right, when you put your thumb on that, make sure it doesn't stick out, make sure the drum spins nice and even, which this one works well. and we're going to go back to a vise and put the plate on, first a gasket, then the spring plate that goes and our screw and washer.
I'll start with this and remove it in this area, the notches that we want to align, see the notch. On the plate we are going to line up with the notch in a shaft which ensures that the ratchets will catch these slots where they should be. Just change gears. Everyone double check it's tight. Well, since yesterday we had a broken Paul spring, so we are going to replace both: the broken one and the new one. What you normally do is take this and just stick it in a slot here, don't be surprised if we were doing this that sometimes it will explode. and they hit you on the head, they don't hurt as much, that's what they look like, okay, I like to take some white lifting in Greece, which I usually like to put things together with and I'll just smear a little bit on here like that, that helps.
Lubricate the spring as it goes to and from Paul's rack. Well, next up is our Paul rack and a Paul shifter and these two little springs move from the inside of Paul and it goes up and down with the spring, of course, I stuck it in there. You'll notice that when it stops, there's a slot here and there's a pin that comes on the back of the Paul holder that lines up with the Paul, so it only moves up in one direction, it doesn't twist and we'll do that. take some spring fall grease on that little grease on the carrier, okay let's see, I lined them up, they're nice and soft, now to install this, I'd like to take it like this between your fingers, let me loosen my fingers first, right?
OK? roll it on one finger on each paw, compress it, stick it like this, start like this and just work your way up, sometimes it's not that easy all this movement, so it's okay, this time we have it, just hold it in place and you have to catch that little aha and check again that it moves well, well, now we will put the cover on our washer, sir. Wes cleaned the surface with a wire wheel and gasket. You'll notice that the gasket has a small cutout here to match the cutout in the plate, as well, making sure all the holes line up when you do it all.
Harris we stone the surface here so get a nice tight seal a little bit of grease where it's going to rub a little bit like that okay now we're going to get our little screws and we had a short one. Remember this one the bottom hole, this one also has a cutout here that matches a cutout in the backing plate so one day, just tap these and just snap them in a criss-cross pattern right there, the five screws that screw into the top , we just have to find our little nut that goes on the bottom here The ratchet mechanism is made our cover with the TU Delft in the four hungry screw holes three screw holes the arm check it every step of the way make sure that be nice and free this one is so we must have done something right, it will get everything nice and centered, then you go back and tighten them up nice, you don't have to lean on these little screws, an ironic thread of 1024 and if you tilt them too much, you can take them off and create more fun for you, it's okay, it still works, we have the whole top mechanism is practically ready to work.
Now we're going to put a neutral indicator switch on some Teflon sealant on the threads so, of course, I've lost my adjustable wrench again. Oh, who would have thought I'd probably have it? I needed this again just a little bit mad, okay, the other piece we need to put in here is our detent that would keep it going, the battery gear and we have this is what it looks like, a little end that I like to polish. I put this end on as a 3m pad and I like to polish the boar so it doesn't stick.
So our portable drill has a 3m drum, so we're going to go over the face of it like this to polish any type of debris, take out the drum and we put the follower inside so that it sticks out a little bit, take a 3m pad and polish it . You'll see there's a little bit of rust pitting there, smooth it out, take it and reverse it, you can see the difference between the polish and the way it is, we can fix it like new, so here's our spring, give it a light coat of grease on the follower, make sure it works well, something nice and smooth, and we have a new one. lock ring okay, let me take this out.
You can see how the catch is down here and it's based on this reason. We polished the grooves a little with a 3 m pad. I also can't get enough flour. Join this fourth third second neutral first. Everything works. Okay now the tab here lines up so we're going to bend that tab up to hook that flat part like that and the top is done where you go back to the box okay the tops are done let's dress up the cover side or the known kicker coverage when we took it apart, we measured the inner bushings for the kicking arm and this is Titan.
The only thing we did was place the O-ring inside that seals the oil outlet. We're just going to reinstall it on the same bushings, although we did get new bushings in Jim's kit, there's just no reason to use them if we don't have to, so we'll do it: We'll hold this in the nose with a little more grease, now you notice this large, thick washer that is placed on the outside. so and prevents the arm from chewing up the aluminum this washer has a pretty heavy bevel on the inside the bevel goes outward against the kicker arm and that's what we have here now we'll take this right we glue the arm shaft Kick shaft or start on a side deck, the gearing continues next, but you'll notice this is synchronized, there's a kicker arm flat shaft that would go in that direction and then your stop that stops on the inside of the transmission case, we'll go to 7 o'clock and that's about 7 o'clock, but before we put the shift we definitely want to put the clutch release arm on, of course this will be a pain, but it's nice when they fit nice and tight like this and here it is our clutch release arm that goes down through the tower and rotates like this, but there are a couple of components that we have to put in here first, a little bit of grease, we have to have our clutch release arm and there are two washers that go on the shaft, one has a larger diameter than the other and what that does is send our arm to the middle where it will fit perfectly with the throwout bearing, so we stick it in there and start it, then we take the washer with a larger diameter and that goes under therelease arm, so now it's there, but okay, now you have to move everything so that the square starts.
There we are at the clutch release arm, now the arm is perfectly centered, so that when it engages the release bearing, it pushes perfectly parallel on the transmission push rod, the clutch push rod, if you forget that washer, many times this will sink and put pressure on the throwout bearing, which caused the throwout bearing to wobble and fail prematurely and sometimes they would quit as well. The push rod develops a small indentation on the end and will prevent the clutch push rod from acting like it is supposed to. Next up is this washer that goes on the bottom, which acts as a deterrent for the cotter pin that keeps everything in place, you may remember when we took this apart the cotter pin was missing in action, yes we straightened that gear , it doesn't want to fit, we had a file for the inside diameter, the bottom washer to fit over the shaft and then we slid in a new cotter pin, let me show you this before it all bends here is the clutch actuator from the clutch arm and there's a flat washer here between the casting and the arm itself that helps keep this held right on the diameter of the main shaft. center line then there's a little washer that goes here and then a new cotter pin that keeps the cotter pin from rubbing here and allows it a little bit of movement but not much now we just bend that cotter pin and put the gear back on . and this will be done, you can see we bend the cotter pin, let's trim it a little bit, okay, it runs nice and free, it's not coming out now, we're ready for the gear, like I said, this is the stop, the co stops.
On the transmission case inside the case there is a small metal plate that is held in place with two screws and that is a positive stop so that the recoil arm remains upright when not in use. You'll notice there's a cut here and that cut. is when you put the kick arm on the bolt that holds a kick arm to the axle it happens this way so it has to be vertical now the gear that is at seven o'clock puts on a new lock ring from Jim's kit and no I don't see these too often, it's a spec manual for a 70 to 80 for Shovelhead, mainly all it does is list capacities, specs, finishes and torques and it covers all Excel models, FL models, del models FL equipment and its variety in chassis, engine, transmission and electricity. so let's run back here to the FL transmission, okay, it tells you all the specs of what the Drive type should be and the silver clutch torque just 30 to 40, it said we're going to get our, let's not use our torque wrench. .
I just walk. of course ok now we just need to bend a tab to lock this in place and this looks like a good candidate here we'll see the hero clear it's a bit of a tricky part when you put this locking ring on tight press the tabs against the gear and you have to get something to start lifting the lugs like a sharp screwdriver and I don't want to mess it up yeah I do that okay we start there and move on to our little chisel make sure we have good contact it spins good ya we're done, we decided to cover, she had it spins fine, this is still nice and smooth, ready to go, all good, next thing we're going to do is the main shaft, we clean it all up with about 3m and check it out. it spins nice and straight so what we're going to do is hold it in some soft jaws like this and the first thing is our group gear that we've inspected and cleaned or actually our cleaning guy did.
Wes looks great no more marks on the gear teeth at all it happens first like this and we'll just have to hit that one like this next it happens is our ball bearing in this race we like to replace these things no matter what I said before it's only 15 20 dollars already pre-lubricated, nice and sealed on both sides and sometimes you fit a little bit well in the races, we'll almost get there, you can hear the sound change when we sit down, more of a humming like that it goes right to the main chef like two that go just like that, we're going to need a little bit of protection here and since we're centering the bearing on the race, I mean on the axle, we just want to press the center of theOkay, next thing is that Our lock ring has three little tabs that fit into the slots, but before we put them on, since we're going to have to torque the nut to about 90 foot-pounds, I'd like to take them and bend them.
Raise the tabs just a little to start because I have seen many bearings where this shield was damaged while someone was trying to stick a screwdriver into it to turn the Tang on. I just start them all a little bit like five six degrees like now, if it's on the mainshaft and the mainshaft bearing nut like that, then this reduces the torque to 210 foot-pounds, you really have a lien on this a mm a again, just a double check, oh, okay, I always want to double a tab. up to catch it, looks like this is our candidate here so you'll have to be careful, just go in like this, don't go down, just go up like this, finish with a couple of channel locks, okay, nice and quiet just the way we like them, okay that's done until we put it in the box and we'll put the starter gears in one here once the box gets there okay next we can put the mainshaft fourth gear all in the box and then please prepare the chef group at the counter to come in so you have a couple of minutes and we'll get our things together and be right back.
Okay, now we are ready to assemble the main key box. The first thing we're going to do is like it. To seal the bolts, the mounting bolts there are four at the bottom and you can see where they come out through the case. Sometimes people get overzealous when they tighten these things and don't loosen the case bolts and that is a source of oil leaks on the older model. In cases like those from the '30s and '40s and sometimes the '50s, the cases are cast from aluminum so porous that we have seen oil seep through the aluminum, in which case we use clip tall, which is a paint of armor to seal the hole inside In the case of these late '60s and those '70s models, they used a better loom compound, so you really have to do that, but as a precaution, I just like to seal them and what I use is a gasket previous AV Loctite, it is called aviation technology. a little brush and I just rub it, let me put this here so you can see what's going on, okay, we just rub it all over and by the time this comes back into service, it'll be pretty dry.
I'm going to turn this way. so you can get the onions again, these are interference fit threads, these bolts and the interference fit of the threads are supposed to keep oil from getting through, but without knowing the history of your transmission you can't really count on that , okay, now let's stop fourth gear and the bearings, there are 44 roller bearings, stick this here for now, raise my little chair and we've counted the bearings three times just to make sure we have all 44 here. What happens first is this thrust washer the bearings actually move and then we'll slide them into the box, so everyone has a way of making these bearings that they say is the best, the way that's always worked for me , if you spread a little semi-thick white lithium grease on them and then stack them. the bearings now this can be very frustrating as you'll see here in a second well, I'm doing this.
I can tell you that the bushings here mount to the main shaft and we mic it up and it's worth inspecting. like a thousand and a half, if you need to replace that bushing, just push the bushing out of fourth gear, push a new bushing in and then it will go into the kit, but you have to refine it to fit and get the proper clearance. One of our friends who Can broadcasts also be done by anyone with a child at home? They usually charge you between 15 and 20 dollars. Most auto engine shops have a son and a home when they make wrist pin bushings for auto engines, and while we're away from the camera, we clean and inspect each one. of these roller bearings looking for signs of skid marks on them and they are all nice and clean, we have to say this is one of the nicest transmissions we have ever owned.
A piece that we had to curate well. Asparagus, I mean, no. hole for the drain plug, someone removed it and then held the drain plug, you know, with a little JB soldering, which is just not the way to go, okay, if they are playing with a lot of fat fingers, we have the 44 bearings lined up in fourth gear we put a little bit of grease on the bracket inside the case the way I like to do it is I like to put fourth gear within reach and center it like this and watch it as it goes up you'll see , I missed one, you see where I touched and the bearings fell out, so we just have to redo that and to be honest, I'm right-handed, so I'm going to move this over here, let's see there, take your nail, wipe it around me penny.
Remove the excess grease to allow you to see if there is a gap in the bearings, which there isn't, which means we are successful, yes, we have to be careful with this when we put it like this, turn it and make sure everything spins very well , look, now it's time to attach the main shaft. We're not going to put the seal or the C on the case until we put the main shaft on because I got this super duper tool from Jim's machine that allows you to press it in good and even say don't waste one, now we'll get the main shaft and what We are going to need to start this like this, but inside we will have to put the third gear and the gear lever. clutch, so we've got third gear, a little bit of white grease, let's go first, let's fix this, then we'll put the thrust washer in a little bit of grease, go in from the chamber for a second on the new snap ring from the gyms kit. and then the 3/4 shifter clutch.
Now this one is going in one direction. You can see here how the high gear going against forward is marked, so I'm going to stand in front of the camera again so this all starts there like that. now it reaches like this, okay, it starts, okay, third gear slides, one must have a washer and a thrust washer has two little pins that want to fit into the splines, so sometimes you just have to worry about that like this Okay, now I have room to move here, okay? To get started on your snap ring, hey, you want to figure out where the break is and get started with ease.
You don't want to warp it too much, which will reduce its holding ability in the slot. We actually put the snap ring on the main derailleur that I'm pointing out right here and that will fit into a slot once they get the main shaft in further, so let's go like this, an easy way to seat that retaining ring is to take and start the shifter clutch now. wants to make it a hassle because the shifter clutch is blind, there you go too, you see how we start and we have the retaining ring right here. Well, what you could do is tap the main shift assembly in the center, the ball bearing bracket in the hole and we'll just tap it into place and use a shifter clutch to seat the snap ring.
Can you see down here? You can see that the snap ring has seated on the main shaft, but you want to check it again, turn everything. around make sure the entire snap ring is seated in that groove, once that's done you need to tap the main shaft all the way in, but first come here and look at the fourth gear bearings, make sure with the knocking feeling it doesn't have walked at all. and we'll finish seeding the main shaft it looks good it looks good the ball bearing rises up sitting against the case we'll put the plate on to retain that we're also going to go in here to make sure the fourth gear bearings never come out and it also looks okay, so now what we want to do is retain that support plate, get the screws, we have a new screw because the other one was bent, then we take it apart, we'll take the chair out and do this hidden, remember: we have to orient this support plate so the countershaft locking ring fits there against the flattened mark right there and we have to make sure we use this deflector.
Okay, they're all hand tight, but I like to go through them and give them a little more. Boom, there's something good about these snap-on screwdrivers. You have one hex to manage. I'm going to need help with Mr. West to hold the case because I normally do this in a vice, okay we are done with the operation, the next operation will put the main seal on the 4th gear side, don't give us a couple of seconds we will set it up and continue . Okay, it's always been a little tricky to install the 4th gear seal, but we have a really good tool from Jim's machine that we've had for years that makes installing it a breeze onfirst, although first you're going to put a cork gasket here. that limits how far the seal will go in.
Here you force the seal to fit inside that gap, but here there is a signet ring. Actually, this will fit here. Always pre-lube the ECUs so it doesn't break, and since this is the surface, it holds those balls. bearings in place, we're going to put some grease on it and we're going to insert this where the notch usually has small or a little sharp corners, so we stick it on the bearing first so it doesn't cut the rubber and looks like As we said before, This seal is one of the biggest sources of leaks on these transmissions, so before putting the new seal on, I like to take some aviation tack and just smooth it around the seal to fill in any irregularities. in the case itself, that sticky, I don't know what, trying to get that on our fingers, those are the rides up there in fourth gear like that for years, you'd just start hitting that with a wrench and hopefully you'd get it correctly. without ruining it today we have this jim tool that wood thread on the mainshaft like this and then we have this it's actually a seal installer and remover to remove it without taking the transmission out of the frame we're taking the part Would you put this here like this and you would put three self tapping screws into the seal, then you would take this out and take the seal out with it, then you would reverse it and put it back in like we're going to do. right now a couple of thrust washers and then a nut and what this will do is push the roof in nice and straight and it will stop automatically so you know you're at the right depth.
I know not everyone will run away. and buy one of these things because it's a cup maybe 100 150 dollars or I didn't buy it, but if you have a group of friends that ride big twins and you want to share tools, this would be one of the first tools I would use. I'd love it again, Wes. I'm going to need you to study this because we don't have it ready in the mail, but this is where we're going to come in and we've already started. Well, my lovely assistant, Mr. White, there we are and when we go to put the sprocket on the line, one of these splines in fourth gear up with the groove in the seal ring for the seal ring to turn inside the seal, not only in the fourth gear, we have a board to seal.
Installed on late model transmissions there is a seal to seal the mainshaft to fourth gear and we have another special tool for that fellow, those are the most noticeable ones, we are screwing right, this is the sealed mainshaft, the mainshaft seals , fourth gear these are known for not working properly what we have is a gem tool, two pieces, a sleeve that fits over the main shaft, like this, then the seal slides on like this, then the driver with a little lip to put it on At the right depth it slides like this. that and if mr.
West will argue the case for us, we'll just play that right in the TV chair, it was very easy, the money best spent on a tool is this tool, you know, I like to buy Hansa stamps for the fourth gear, okay, that's it The main. axle group ready, we'll get to the kick gears when we go to assemble the kick cover, next we're going to go after the countershaft group, which is very easy, okay, now that we have the main gear in the case assembled , we can direct our attention to the gear counter chef is joined in one piece the countershaft has needle bearings roller bearings at each end this end is the first side of the gear and we almost finish the other end and place the roller bearings of the Same way we put them in fourth gear inside the counter safety group there is a retaining ring and then a washer that the bearings ride against.
What we're going to do is when we put this washer on the primary side it's going to hold those bearings in place on the opposite end. On the first gear side, the first gear thrust washer will hold them in place and set the float for the countershaft, so the first thing we do is finish putting the roller bearings in here the same way, a little grease will keep them in place, there are 22 bearings. at each end of the countershaft we have this would be the fourth gear, the third gear, the second gear that is held by a retaining ring, the problems are first a second shifter clutch, you can reverse this to get a better one if your edges They're rounded, you just reverse them and they have nice sharp edges to engage the teeth on the gear, so when it's in gear, it'll go like this and drive that way.
We have the spacer ring here. This is the bushing for first gear, which is just a sliding adjustment in first. gear like that then a little bit recently right at the end a nice adjustment like that okay we got a new counter derailleur that came with our gem kit the one we had before the bearings looked good but it had something of rust on the in the middle, so we have a new shaft. Mazal put it in a ring on the left side of the axle and will seal it so no oil leaks past the hub.
Just roll it up and it forms a little layer of fat for it to slide on and off. We want to go ahead and put the vertical transmission back in this way. I may need Mr. White to help me, okay, the group of counter staff will come in as a whole and you can see a socket, another socket, this will fit in there like this, now I just look down, here you want to turn it, don't just hold it , yeah, okay and a first gear thrust washer that goes between the first gear and the box thrust and then we'll look down here and line it up, you'll see that washer said you want to get it as close as possible to be able to slide the counter. shaft up through the group and index into this hole without removing any rollers, which isn't as bad as you might think, so we'll rotate it like this and slide it up from the left side through the case bushing.
Look down a little. Here and here we go to this wheel, but you see, we start with the first set of bearings, we go up the rest. Do you know how lucky you can be? We have the countershaft right there. I'm going to spin this. Remember that we have this lock plate as flat. on it and it has a lock against the main support plate, so before installing the countershaft completely, leave everything aligned. Now, can you see the flat part here on the shaft type? Is that okay and can you see how these plates are going to line up there? so we want the flat part to face three o'clock; this will line up perfect, so what we do is we just turn the countershaft a little bit.
You need some pliers, sir. West, let's go a little further this way, okay, push it all the way in, baby, all the way in, baby, hey, you know once the ring of dough is here, it'll be a little good, it would be the washer first your washing machine is fine, back it up, okay, let's get up before we do that. I don't think the first gear washer we have to drag over here so we can see, hold on like this, here we go, well, see how it comes out. What we want now, you can place it like this, now we can touch it in all the way that we place our new la crème of the gyms kit and so, where is our nut that is 7/8?
Also is okay. Next is the 55 foot torque. -pounds of the countershaft assembly. I will need mr. West to hold this for us, I normally do all of this on this stand in the vise, that way I can do it all myself and I have to worry about West being on top, someone can see him, but because of this program and the angle of the chamber, we We go this way, I always like to tighten the counter that I had to the proper specifications before I check the thrust washer and the float ready, but it's okay, I made fifty-five foot panels and what we do is measure that distance, it should be between seven and twelve. thousands so first we look for seven and you want to go down between the thrust washer and the case bushing okay go to seven so go to the other end of the spectrum 12,000 and watch it stop.
I'm going off the side of the hub, okay? We know it's not 12, so let's back up so we can at least know exactly what we have eleven man stops and more than 10. No, there are ten thousand within spec. Some people may want to polish their own first speed thrust washers, but. More than ten thousand by the time you get oil and air, it will take up all those free spaces. It was radically out of place. Try the next size you have. I have a collection of first gear thrust washers. You can buy kits of five from me as custom chrome. v-twin drag specialties like the v-twin package also make it oversized, the largest factory one they would sell you the first gear thrust washer was one hundred thousand thick v-twin came out with a one hundred five thickness mil s in 110 to offset bushing where when it rotates on the countershaft, if someone put it on too tight, they burned the bushing called bushing and had to resurface it.
We also make new bushings and different sizes so you can get virtually the combo you need. We may have to spend a few more dollars to get a selection of top gear thrust washers. We were lucky to have one in the box, so now we can go ahead and fold those tabs looking for a nice flat, this one seems like the best one, right? Look, this one is here in the corner and that one is right in the corner. You can see it? So let's double that one. I'm going to try to be the one who hurt you.
What you get for not using the right tool. Well, the club case is pretty much all together, so we'll turn our attention back to the kick gears. Okay, the last thing that the steering on the kick side of the transmission is the kick gears that go on the main shaft, we have the compression spring. first and let's put on our floating gear. Look, the teeth are not rounded, it fits well. We already checked it on the main shaft, so a little grease pushing this back can also be a little difficult. that you have to put the keys on the tapered side of the shaft and they are not square, they are somewhat rectangular, so don't go like this in one direction.
I'll start with the one that has both of them pushed. The new small tab on the locking ring fits into one of the slots of your choice. Okay, now we're going to apply torque which I think gets 40 foot-pounds and also 45. Now to keep everything from turning in, here we can lock the transmission in two gears from We have the top open, this is the first second and here is a shifter clutch, so we move it so that now first gear is engaged. Here's shifter clutch three or four, so if we engage it in third gear like this, we've now engaged two. gears one on each axle that locks the transmission from turning that way we can go ahead and tighten the nut on the main shaft what worries me about the main shaft turning is blocking itself together we will do the same when it gets to the main shaft sprocket, so it doesn't matter if you use the first and the third, the first and the fourth, the second and the third, it doesn't matter, as long as one gear on each shaft is engaged, that's fine, we'll just bend this little tab of block upwards wherever. suits us as long as it hits a flat, here it looks good, okay, the main case is now complete, now we are going to put the shifter forks on and check their alignment, if you remember, when we started this, we took the forks of the gear lever.
The shifter fork one, two was closer to one then two, so we're going to rectify that, but we'll check the three, four and also everything comes out fine and smooth, next on the agenda are our shift forks. the gear lever, there is a gear lever fork one, two. You've shown almost no wear on it, we'll put it on the shifter clutch, just the nuts for the shifter for adjustments always go on the outside of the case like this, we'll just slide down your header, give it a little touch to make it okay. now what we want to do here I miss that I missed it give me a second what I did was I didn't put the shifter fork in the three-four clutch so now I'm moving this is hard because it's just across from Miss Bead.
I'm going to change gears. I'm going to do this. Come here, partially engage fourth gear so we can turn this shifter down into the slot. I haven't made enough progress yet. I'll remove it, make it easier. on me, you know, come in third, it won't pass fourth, there's and ahead and see, I've got a good gap next to the speedometer drive gear, let's fly this instead, let's move this back first a second, that too we had in the gyms. kit of new shift fork rollers that follow the grooves of the upper ratchet drum, so we're going to stick them in there like this, we're going to set this to neutral, which is between three and four, we're going to lift up our top The gasket and the part top are fine, this continues in a singledirection like this, so we'll change the top to neutral now, usually you'll take what they call a ratchet and a siding tool that will fit in here, you put the pins in the slots, then transfer the tool to the top and it will move the forks of the shifter wherever you want, but if you only do one or two of these a year, you can get by by just using the top, see we're down on the pins that locate everything, it's the transmissions in neutral, the tops in neutral, so if you carefully remove it that way, it will tell you where the shifter forks are now.
I think you see down there, look at this, look at how the chef's report is the dog or the The clutch dog is close to the first gear and the distance between the second gear we want to move this shift fork if you can see down here three and Four is perfectly a little closer to four, don't we like it? So we'll move it. all three, this is how you do it, you take the fork shaft out of the shifter and there are chips between the controller and the fork itself that allow you to make that adjustment, so we'll double check that in this case we do it one at once.
I'll make one - you like to make these on site so you can get a good grip on one, these have locking tabs and that one is a three quarter inch nut. You have to know someone. I'll bring this to you so we can show it. a little lighter, okay, comes the nut, then the locking tab, you want to rub your fingers here, see if there are shims behind it and they are not there, and here are your shims and a thick spacer, look at the shin that was passing it . into first gear, so we at least want to move that this way, moving this shifter closer to second gear, let's see what else we have here for shims, none and the transport shifter has a little slot and a little tab inside. the shift lever fork that aligns it so moves the wedge towards the side lug the locking lug has a small lug to fit into the derailleur for the carrier the nut has a gap in the back look at the gap inside here it now fits down the threads and if you get too close they will fit over the rack, put it back twice and adjust it well, maximum in neutral, it looks better, go down there, see how that space increases and a space here in the second is practically the same now.
Well, I would say that a lot of guys have done that, not many people who like to race often like to trick the shift fork into second gear thinking that if you're going to start a race you're already in it. 1st gear so you don't have to move as far and you want the shifter to be a little closer to 2nd gear so when you get that to shift at high revs you'll want to engage positively the same way with the third and fourth many times. Guys will lean into third gear thinking that's where all the acceleration will come from and when they're ready to shift into fourth they can back off the throttle a little bit so I'd say one, two, done, let's check three four again. recovery that looks perfect like when we take it apart in the view stamp, we are down, can you see the space between 3 and 4?
I like it, so one more time and pull the shifter fork shaft out, okay, then the locking tab here. Okay, now I'm going to put some lube on your food, oh, I forgot to mention it before, yeah, so we put a new boss on that James James gasket here that seals the shaft to the box that has the end of the shift. that little notch that has the set screw that holds the fork shifter in a housing here's the notch here's the threaded hole so we're going to turn it until it's 90 degrees tap it to check your alignment looks okay here's who's in there like this, put the joint back like this and we're ready to move on here to the sprocket that we want to put on while the top is still off because again we can lock the transmission in two gears and get a good grip. on the torque on a sprocket nut, okay, the next item is the sprocket to drive the rear wheel.
This transmission came with a 22mm bore, but what we wanted to put in is a 24 which will give you better engine speed. on the highway, but before we do that we want to put this little L-shaped key that will be difficult to show and that locks the seal ring in fourth gear and that goes in like this, what I would like to do is not sit on any manual or anything, I'll take a little bit of Permatex silicone, just a little bit and push it in just enough to seal the end to prevent the oil from wanting to get that way, you want to push too hard in just a little bit.
So, okay, the next thing is the sprocket well goes in like this, tilt this down, just pour fourth gear a little bit. What I'm doing is using two sprocket nuts to pull on the 4th gear sprocket, you have to put that on. A little silicone there sometimes refuses to come out completely and you want to remove it almost flush. We have the transmission locked in both gears. In this case, it's fourth and first in the kit locker room, okay, okay, Wes. I'm going to need your help again to hold the transmission and your work for the big 100 pound nut, it can be a little difficult to hold now another component of this sprocket bushing is a small ring that I come out of the chamber and see. it looks like this, what it actually does, it actually helps the sprocket to be centered on the nut, so you would put it like this and the bushing is countersunk so it helps you center it, only it will hold it, that was a hundred difficult, but you see that the nut likes to be flush with the end of fourth gear, take it out of gear, turn it until we see a nice flat, this one looks better, let's start like this nice and tight, okay, next is the cover, the top cover, okay, we're ready to put the cover on, but first, since we still have the cover open, we're going to re-glue the speedometer drive gear with a little bit of grease on the drive gear like this, If it sticks, we can align it with the transmission on this type of axle. it goes right in line a gasket here we are a screw hold it you have a gasket okay now we're ready for the top a little more grease smearing the finger rollers the little grease between the gears here until it all starts to splatter up there it's okay, we are in neutral here we are in neutral here we should fall like this, pushing a little like in the movies, okay, we have the screws for the two upper lengths, we remove the vent closest to the The DAO pin and the rest around the perimeter that We have been bolted from the main bearing retainer plate, as the top is indexed to the housing with pins of doubt, it will not move in other applications where they are just a part that is held in place with the cone. and the screws you want all the screw cones to touch first to center or align them and then tighten them like I said, it has pins, that's how you get the alignment with the shifter.
The hairpins to the top. I always like to start like this. All the movements when you do head bolts, you tighten the head bolts down, you're supposed to start in the middle and work your way to each end equally, even in fact. We're on newer bike models, they tell you that when you put the primary cover screws, you start them, they don't come out, okay, the last piece is a protective cover, we have it pre-assembled, we have the throwout bearing. I would go to the side cover like this, I want to make sure the lever engages like this.
Now remember we talked about the little ball bearing right there, let the gas start, we'll set it to that ball bearing which will index into this little cutout on the right. there that keeps the inner part rotating at the same speed as the main shaft, you'll notice that I'm not using gaskets here on the side cover on the top cover, if you prepared the gasket surfaces correctly, you should need them, okay?, so does you will notice. that I have rotated the starter gear so that no plate is showing, so these gears will tangle with that gear easily if you try to force the plate, what you are trying to do is force this spring back at the same time you are trying of overcoming your bolt and this is the one that gives the main shape to the line so all we do is turn like this sometimes you have to do it sometimes you get lucky on the first try okay a flat washer on each bolt followed by a nut, you'll notice. that some of these bolts are longer than others, like these two, you would have a small support bracket for your electric starter motor here you may have a support bracket for an oil tank battery box combo mounting bracket, well , there you have it together, we check it even though we don't have to accelerate any more to accelerate the spring, everything turns, we go through the four gears, it's done.
I do this in my garage all the time helping my friends with their four speed transmissions the way I just showed you. That's how I learned, that's how I practice it, there will be different ways to do different things and there will be people out there saying, "Well, he did it wrong." I do it the way that works for me, that's what we try to do. I show you in this program that's it, it's nothing, it's not rocket science, there has to be attention to detail when you make everything and you think it's wrong or you think it's going to break, replace it now why did you take it apart, it's cheap, no I don't want to get this thing in and out of your motorcycle multiple times because I forgot to do this or that.
Do you have a manual for your motorcycle? You are one year old. It helps a lot. It gives you all the torque specifications. Don't trust me or this program to give you the torque specs for your particular application, they are actually model one transmissions that don't have these years here to support the primary, they are exactly the same, but without the ears it just looks the same. Same thing, no big deal, you can do it yourself, if I can do it, you can do it, that's for sure. Well, if we go through the transmission, we thought we'd show you the proper method of getting it back into the frame and sending it.
It has the least amount of resistance and does not wear the fourth gear bushing on the main shaft. What we have done is loosely installed the plate on the coil drive so that it still slides. This is not the original hardware. I still soak it and remove the dirt and stuff. The first thing we do is put it back on the supports. There are four supports on the frame, one two, three, four and then a fifth support under the kicker cover before attaching the plate. just take a really good file and make sure there is no birth, they would give us a failure, okay, now we're going to put a stream in there.
I need help from the laundryman Wes, thanks, I'm going to insert it like it's not down in the front, there we are good, it looks very different when we take it out, now what we're going to do is take some bolts and washers and loosely attach the frame to the plate when they would have played. If you remember when we took this apart, the faceplate mounting holes are drilled with 3/8 fine thread, you'll notice how everything is nice and loose, it just moves back and forth, the plate will give a little, it goes up and down , all good.
The next thing we want to do is take the primary cover like this, nice and clean, and there are three bolts here that hold the primary cover to the engine and these four bolts are located here through the bearing and they hold the transmission case, so The next thing we do is we just slide this on like this, you'll see everything is nice and loose, if it's there, what we're going to do is this usually has a locking ring that you would bend the ears over one of these bolt heads once you were there. tight, but since we're now showing you how to do this, there's no reason to go through all that trouble.
Anyway, they are all going to be taken apart to clean, paint and repair the engine. I should explain: we did not move the engine at that time. The first thing we do is how the engine in Iran is bolted solidly, that's it, it is based on the engine mounts, so the engines are tight and square in the frame. This inner primary cover, the inner primary cover, would be specific, is now at right angles to the sprocket axis. and locate the main chef and what you want is that the reason for this exercise is to make sure that the chef of the sprocket coming out of the engine and the main gear in the transmission remain in perfect parallel in both planes like this and like that You're not using any horsepower to turn the main shaft or the bearing and you want to keep the bearing tight to the shaft, so now what we're going to do is there should be Watchers here, but just for the sake of this demonstration.
Well, we'll use those two for now, so now what we have is that we have ensured that the sprocket shaft and the main shaft are perfectly parallel in all planes, so to keep this in plane we don't clean a bearing, but we are going to glue the clutch hub just to havean idea of ​​how much resistance there is on the mainshaft, so once we get started on this here, we're going to go under the transmission and tighten the nuts that hold the transmission mounting plate on. the bottom of the transmission mr. West, can you do that from your side please, the nuts under the KCM easily reach the transmission nuts, the plate to the transmission, tighten them, not the plate to the frame, just to the bottom of the transmission, now this doesn't have to be a primary primary for Many guys who use belt drives like a BD L do this and have a nice heavy plate that would act in place of the primer on a primary and I think Revere has a two piece plate that would work for both the engine and the engine. one would bolt to the transmission and then adjust the belt tension but you still want to make sure it's in the same plane if you don't have an internal primary plate or motor plate what you can do is take a piece of glass like quarter inch thick glass, about 18 inches long, place it over the bearing surface, you can remove this extension and place it on the clutch hub without the bearings and you can see if it fits a little bit, okay, now we have a plate adjusted to the Frog that transmission box what we want to do is take some feeler gauges now and check between the plate and the frame that is where the distances will be compensated so since we are almost at a moment here we are going to fit one of these to show you how to do it, but you want to do it on all five bolt holes, okay, we can see light between a frame and a plate, so what we want to do is measure how much of that distance is and become it. to fit in there, you see, we'll start with a six thousand and what you want is what they call a plug fit or slide fit, okay, six thousand won't go all the way, dari, this six thousand two big, we run with seven seven . feels good so try eight okay I tried eight Nate you're tight so we'll go back to seven seven okay okay we need a 7000 wedge Now there's an easy way to do this and a way a little harder, the easiest way would be if you had shims for your disc brake rotors, they usually have a 3/8 thru hole and come in various thicknesses and many times I keep a bag of them and it comes to the size I have , I'll just take a caliper shim, stick it in there and call it good, but I don't have any 7000s with me, so let's make one, well, what I have here is a brass shim that I bought 100 years ago and I'm still using and it has different sheets with different thicknesses the booth you find there are seven here and all we really need is a small circle but we need a 3/8 hole in the middle and you can use a pair of scissors to do that or whatever I like Is this or a set of wedge punches?
You have a block with precision holes and you have precision punches and we're just going to choose the 3/8 hole and it's going to fit in there nice and snug, so what we're going to do is slide in our wedge piece. shim here until it's nice and centered hold this up to see we have a 3/8 hole centered in our piece of shim we're just going to hit it with a hammer and make a hole in it let me step out for a second okay we've got our favorite hammer here ready, now we make a hole in it, since this is precision, it's harder than hell to get these things out again.
I'm going to have to go out and go to the voice, okay, I'm back. Yes, we are, so now you have that shim ready to go into the frame. Grab a pair of regular scissors and we'll trim a little bit like this. Yeah, well, it would make it a lot nicer if this were together one last time. take a hammer and just rub the cut edges like this and we'll go ahead and glue that between a frame and a plate. Now we show you how to do one, you have to do all five I've been here.
You felt what kind of resistance is on your main shaft, it becomes nice and free, okay, you're going to adjust it, you're going to tighten it and you'll see that the resistance hasn't changed at all, that means they're not putting any bindings on the main shaft because we . I mounted that plate and shimmed it until it was perfectly parallel. Here now what we will do is make the other rear wedge between the plate and the frame and we will go to the front and make the left front frame, I mean the right one. the plate holder because it's easy to get to and we'll do the fifth mountain once it's done, you know the plate isn't going to move, your stamina isn't going to change, so what we're going to do is remove this flood tub.
We'll remove the inner primary and then you'll do the left front mount on the plate and frame because now it'll be easy to get to and it won't change because you've already done everything else. It takes about an hour to do it, even if you have to go, you know, cut the pub shims with your scissors or a coffin hole punch or something, but this gave so much life to your transmission, your bushings, and your fourth gear that you can not. Create it and then once you get here and adjust your primary chain, make sure you leave 5/8 inch of play up and down, then you won't be stressing any of the axles or brackets once you're there.
It's good to go on like, oh, don't forget to put oil in the transmission, that's all. I think we would be remiss if we didn't show the earlier versions of the transmission top, these ratchet covers were introduced in 52 and we are available all the way until they changed the case on the top in 77 78 before the top of ratchet we had what they call the manual top or it was called a fumble finger cap when you shifted this it would go back to a specific setting when you shifted a manual top it would stay in position and this arm was hooked to a lever that hooked to a shift tank and what you do is you move this tank shifter into different gears over the years when the helicopter craze came and everyone wanted what they call a suicide clutch you would just put a handle here, turn the shifter or the piece here for the clutch on a clutch pedal that had no spring and we just went back and forth without friction.
Sorry, and just being able to bypass the clutch and do better wears, this top has the same type of drum shift gear and would work well in this transmission. If we decide to remove the top of the ratchet, we will only need to check the derailleur or fork alignment. make sure it works like it should before 65 is the first year for the electric start that's why over the years these electric start ears and bolts would be here and locate everything nice and tight let me back up here we have borrowed a four speed transmission box from the previous model looks like this basically it is exactly the same as this box without the ears and used these from 36 to 64 65 inside it looks the same it would need the same top it would continue as that main shaft will stick out in the same place all your gearing, I mean your sprocket would work this well in these transmissions, go to a sprocket one tooth bigger because there's no chain interference here 24 is about the biggest you've been doing these things you can make it like a 25 and they actually made 26.
The only other difference we want to take into account is the length of the drive, the length of the main shaft, who knows how far it sticks out from here, that's for principles, this is a second length, Early models were I think 12 and 3/4, then added a quarter of an inch to the mainshaft length when I wanted electric start because the electric start gear when the clutch basket is a quarter of an inch in 1970, when they moved to a lower end of the alternator. It's a generator model, there would be an alternator in the engine cases right here, since they added the alternator that drove everything at a quarter of an inch, consequently they came up with another quarter of an inch in length on the main shaft, so If you are buying a transmission, you have to know what type of engine sprocket shaft you have, from the early thirty-six to 52, I think, or what they call bevel sprockets, you have after that it went to a spline, This one gets stuck there forever, but after that just make sure you know what pieces will fit if you have a 50 on the bottom end and you want the mainshaft to fit on a 52.
So if it's a motorcycle with a bottom end of 36 joint head, it's tight money, but that would have a bevel sprocket, you would have a different length of the main drive shaft, bet the same amount of money, he must know what you are choosing and it is difficult if you just take one, he will you put there, you get there and all of a sudden your head unit lines up, then you're in big trouble or you're at the expense of trouble I should say, and with that we're done, we'll get it done. on more things as we go, but that's it for this video or DVD or whatever media you choose to use here until next time, see you.

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