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Hairdressers Guide To Coloring Your Own Hair And Not Ruining It

Hairdressers Guide To Coloring Your Own Hair And Not Ruining It
hi beautiful i know a lot of us out here are well at our breaking points which means a lot of at-home

hair

cuts at home

hair

color a lot of

hair

disasters everybody wants to do something drastic to their

hair

right now in order to just feel something and i get it over the years i've watched so many

hair

color bleach fail videos i've learned a lot actually on what people are doing at home that is making their

hair

look so bad so that knowledge is gonna help me today bring you guys the
hairdressers guide to coloring your own hair and not ruining it
basic knowledge of how to properly color

your

hair

your

self at home i'm gonna debunk all this sort of myths i'm gonna tell you what things people are doing right what things people are doing wrong and make sure it doesn't fall off we'll go over everything from bleaching toning to aftercare and so much more however i will be going over the basics if i have

hair

dressers watching if i have anybody who's sort of advanced in the world of

hair

color this may be a bit too basic for
you but for the average person you've come to the right place and just as a little reminder this does not replace a professional

hair

dresser somebody who has studied color theory for years is gonna know a lot more than this but it is a

guide

during these tough times on how you can color

your

hair

your

self and do it well maybe not amazing but well i hope and with that all said you guys let's learn some color theory let's do it are you ready get out

your

notepad or

your

phone and a
pen or

your

finger and start taking notes all right because we're gonna go over a lot here and it is important that you listen listen to me this will be like a fun class i'm like a cool teacher you know i'm like not like the rest of them first we're gonna go over how to prepare

your

hair

for

hair

coloring

otherwise known as the category prepare don't wash

your

hair

before

coloring

it what you do when you wash

your

hair

is you make tiny little abrasions on

your

scalp this is
going to make

coloring

your

hair

very painful if you're using bleach that bleach is going to seep into those little tiny cracks in

your

scalp and it is going to sizzle and burn so please don't wash

your

hair

before

coloring

it is okay if there's product in

your

hair

it's honestly fine it's really not a big deal the bleach will seep through everything okay bleach is super super heavy duty and it'll go through a little bit of you know

hair

spray and it'll get to the
cortex of

your

hair

it's not a big deal please don't wash

your

hair

and also maybe if you're going to bleach it don't wash it for several days that way you have a good amount of oil secretion on

your

scalp to protect

your

scalp don't wash damn

hair

this is pretty basic but make sure you cover

your

space cover

your

floor cover

your

counters cover

your

self wear some old clothes brush out

your

hair

please don't try and color

your

hair

with a bunch of tangles in it get all
those tangles out before going in with that color or else you're gonna have weird spotting from the tangles um if

your

hair

is like matted or anything in the back you're going to end up

coloring

those matted pieces and then you're going to get all spotting everywhere it's not good brush

your

damn heads you're going to also want to separate

your

hair

into four sections here i'll show you on miss mannycoin just how you do that this is a super basic sectioning method that
every

hair

stylist uses on the daily super easy part

your

hair

in the middle all the way back down to the nape of

your

neck that's

your

first section those are

your

two and then go to the apex you can find the apex by laying the comb on

your

head and finding the highest point of

your

head that is what you call the apex then make a section from the apex to behind the ears and those are

your

four sections there it is voila you're gonna want to make sure

your

hair

is dry don't apply
color on wet

hair

unless you're trying to do like a bleach bath but that's another advanced thing okay we don't need to know about that today apply color to dry

hair

please don't put bleach on wet

hair

it doesn't really make any sense it's just going to dilute

your

formula there's really no point all right make sure

your

hair

is dry i also see a lot of people soaking their

hair

in excessive amounts of say coconut oil there's really no point of soaking

your

hair

in
coconut oil the bleach is just gonna eat through it all and it's not gonna matter that you have that oil on

your

hair

strands it's not get rid of the oil it's not necessary it just makes a mess and

your

hair

just feels nasty and like really gross and greasy after you're welcome all right let's move on to category two how to mix mixing

your

bleach or

your

color you gotta do that properly all right this is a big big factor guess what you guys different developers actually do
different things it's not a one-size-fits-all i know a lot of people think that there's 10 20 30 and 40 volume for literally no reason and they just kind of take their guess on what they should use but actually there is a method to the madness i promise so let me just go over the very very basics of what each different developer does differently so we're going to talk mostly today about two different categories you can either be doing a permanent color which is not bleach and bleach
is bleach right so anything that doesn't have that white powder involved that's just color that's permanent color with the white powder that's bleach and then we'll also talk about toners later but just for now just know the differences between color and bleach let's go over color first so if you're

coloring

your

hair

that means you're not using any of that white powder stuff you have an option to use 10 20 30 or 40 volume if you're using 10 volume you're
probably somebody who has any

hair

color and they're trying to go darker because when you're using 10 volume you're not going to get any lightning effects so it's just going to deposit tone onto

your

hair

permanently but it's not going to cover any grays now if you have grays and you have any

hair

color and you're trying to go darker and you're trying to also cover

your

grays you're going to use 20 volume it lifts it gets into the cortex of those grays and
actually changes the color of

your

gray

hair

and all of

your

hair

on

your

head and it lays there permanently so 20 volume is great for you now 30 and 40 volume with permanent color not bleach is typically used for high lift color which means maybe you are a natural this is important if you have color on

your

hair

you cannot lift

your

hair

color with more color so that means if you have a dark brown

hair

and it's box side like that you can't then use a blonde box dye to lighten

your

hair

hairdressers guide to coloring your own hair and not ruining it
you must use bleach just want to get that very clear you must use bleach to get

your

hair

lighter if it's already colored but if

your

hair

is natural if it is naturally brown and you've never colored it you can use a blonde dye to make

your

hair

blonde now it might come out a little bit orange you can also use bleach but you can also use a high lift color which is a color that lifts many levels so you're going to want to use a 30 or 40 volume with that in order to get maximum lift
with

your

blonde color another thing that i would use 30 or 40 volume for is reds you can use 30 volume if you're trying to get that very maxed out like bright bright red or 40 volume if you really want to push it to the max max max and get like fuchsia going on in

your

head you can do that with permanent color without bleach if

your

hair

has never been colored before now for those of you who are going to use bleach so people who have already colored

hair

want to go lighter or people who
have never colored their

hair

before and want to get that max max right platinum blonde you're gonna want to use lightner aka bleach that powder white stuff that you mix with developer okay now we don't use 10 volume with bleach because it has no lifting capabilities again 10 volume just deposits and doesn't lift when i say lift i mean like the

hair

cuticle doesn't actually open that's what's lifting and then the color molecules actually go inside pen volume it
doesn't do that it lays pretty much on top slightly inside now 20 volume is for those of you looking for about one to two levels of lift if you're highlighting

your

hair

this is often a great developer to use for highlights otherwise 30 volume is pretty much my standard i pretty much use 30 volume on everybody and any lightning scenario it's pretty much my go-to and i highly recommend if you're going to lighten

your

hair

at any capacity use a 30 volume unless

your

hair

is already
like pretty light and you're only trying to go a little bit lighter 20 volume will work just fine now 40 volume i just say don't i don't i don't feel like it does that much more than 30 volume to be honest with you i feel like it lightens very fast and then dies out very fast so i don't really recommend it to anybody i don't ever use it for pretty much anything i'm not a huge fan of 40 volume and if you're using 40 volume on

your

scalp it's probably gonna burn
a lot and i would not recommend it you actually shouldn't really be using 30 volume on

your

scalp either but i never really found any problem with it and it's always been fine so 30 volume is pretty much the standard i highly recommend that with lightner if you're trying to lighten

your

hair

especially those of you with virgin

hair

who are trying to lighten

your

hair

for the first time 30 volume will work great and if you're asking well brad what kind of bleach should i be using
i mean it's all quite similar look for a nice one wherever you're shopping or online i don't know wherever you can get lightner at this point i'm sure it'll be fine i haven't found a gigantic difference between the different lighteners i've used over the past if you have the right technique you can use any kind of lightener and you'll get a great result and also one last thing please read the directions every lightener has a different mixing ratio they're very
similar across the board but please mix

your

lightener correctly to what the directions say it is important to mix correctly that way you get the maximum results from the lightener you're using let's go over our next category which is where to start with mixer color we prepared our at-home salon and our

hair

and now we're ready to actually apply the color so let's go over a permanent color first this is the stuff that's not bleached if you have virgin

hair

and you're
trying to do an all-over color please start at the mid sections and ends and then later after you're done with that apply the root color because you have heat from

your

scalp i see this all the time you will get what's called hot roots which is when

your

root area develops more than

your

mids and ends and you end up with a sort of orangey warm color up there because of the heat from

your

scalp so please if you don't want orange roots don't start with

your

roots so it's very
similar with lightener don't start

your

roots if you have virgin

hair

please don't or else

your

roots will end up white and

your

ends will end up like a yellow orange i would recommend probably just doing the mid lengths and ends first and then wait about 10 to 15 minutes until

your

hair

has started to develop and

your

hair

has started to lighten and then go and hit

your

roots with the lightener at the end if you have pre-existing color and this is not

your

first time

coloring

your

hair

say you have very dark boxed eye color on

your

hair

or just any dark color start off with the parts that are the darkest so if you have spots all around start off in those spots that are the darkest then move

your

way up still don't do

your

roots first unless you're doing like a retouch on existing

hair

don't starting

your

roots next we have application method this is where

your

work either turns into a masterpiece or a disaster this is actually one of the most important parts if not
the most important part now listen i understand that none of you are going to use a brush probably none of you which is fine honestly it's fine as long as you're using these things correctly you'll be fine i swear you'll be all good to go first of all make sure you have gloves on it's really not good for

your

hands to put color all over them for real it'll dry them out forever permanent color is pretty simple mix it up put it on

your

head you can comb or brush it through
i highly recommend that as you work through comb it make sure every single

hair

strand is applied to and now with bleach i'm gonna show you on miss manny quinn how much bleach you should be using okay i see this happen all the time where people do not use enough lightener on their heads ninety percent of the time nobody uses enough you need a lot of lightener in order to get the maximum results possible and less lightener doesn't mean that

your

hair

is going to lighten less it just means
hairdressers guide to coloring your own hair and not ruining it
that you're probably get spotting all over

your

hair

if you don't want as much lightning power maybe you drop down the developer or maybe don't let it sit on

your

hair

as long if you don't want

your

hair

to lighten as much don't go and put less lighter that doesn't make any sense now as shown here on miss manny quinn my amazing client today we are gonna apply that lightener we're gonna start in the back if you're using permanent color or bleach start in the back
it doesn't matter what you're using we're going to want to do those first back two quadrants first start at the bottom and work

your

way up that way all the color lays on top of itself as you work up and it doesn't become a total mess now this is how much lightner you should be using really coat it you can use

your

hands as i'm doing here really get it in there move the

hair

around in

your

palms really get it in and avoid that root area at all costs until you can go back
around and do it all after and then once you're done with the entire back section you can work on the front section so once you're done applying the color on the entire head set

your

timer for however long you're supposed to set it for now for bleach i definitely recommend putting a bag over

your

hair

spray a little water inside of it put it on

your

head and tie it really tight that way the water kind of gets a little bit steamy inside the bag you just don't want the lightener to
dry out okay doesn't like dryness it likes moistness so make sure it's always moist another thing that i see a lot people try to lather the bleach like shampoo bleach does not lather let me make that very clear bleach doesn't lather so stop trying to make that happen it's never gonna happen and also don't comb or brush through bleach

your

hair

is in a very fragile state right now that tension is gonna be very bad and detrimental to the health of

your

hair

don't do that so
let's go over how long to leave the color on for for a permanent color you can leave on for whatever the directions say every manufacturer has a different time frame you leave the color on for it's usually 30 or 35 minutes and for bleach it's much more complicated it's gonna vary person-to-person if you have virgin

hair

though and you're trying to go really light leave on 45 to an hour okay nothing beyond an hour is gonna do anything else because the bleach ends up drying out
after an hour basically don't leave it on for more than an hour nothing's gonna happen nothing i promise if you're trying to get platinum blonde

hair

leave it on

your

hair

until it's kind of like white looking because usually once you rinse the lightener off and that kind of white cast comes off it ends up looking a lot more orange and yellowish when you rinse it off so pale yellow is what we're going for in order to get that very platinum blonde look and you can also wash
out the back before the front because we started in the back we can wash that out so that it doesn't over process and the front and back end up as the same color so once

your

timer is up maybe wash out the back first wait another 10 minutes and then rinse out the front and just overall make sure you monitor this process keep it close eye on

your

hair

make sure nothing's falling out if you're worried about anything falling out take a piece in the back kind of stretch it out a little
bit pull on it if it's not breaking or not stretching a ridiculous amount

your

hair

is probably fine and you can leave it on a little bit longer and next we have cleansing and this is a whole category i see a lot of things gone wrong in the cleansing category and these videos i've seen one use lukewarm water okay don't use cold water to rinse off lightener i know it's tempting it feels kind of good because

your

head's very hot but you don't want to do that because
what's going to happen is it's going to shock

your

hair

your

hair

was just expanded really wide in order to get all that artificial pigment out of

your

hair

or natural pigment out of

your

hair

when you shock it back it can cause breakage so make sure you rinse

your

hair

with lukewarm water nothing too hot nothing too cold just right in the middle okay do not scrub

your

scalp it's very fragile the skin was just basically ripped off of it be gentle yeah thorough don't use

your

nails use just like this just the tops of

your

fingers okay be gentle be loving to

your

scalp it's doing a lot for you right now and just say thank you to it by just giving a little massage and most of the time it takes about two washes to get all the lightener out of

your

hair

if you're using a lot of it um sometimes

your

hair

can be left that gritty feeling that's just because you didn't wash all the lightener out so wash it at least twice condition it very nicely maybe do a
little

hair

mask show it a little love you'll be all good up next evaluate the situation can

your

hair

handle more bleach if it needs to be bleached again is it stringy is it falling out is

your

hair

white white does it look like it can handle more lightener the answer is no then don't do it if the answer is yes then do it okay it'll be fine and now is when you proceed with another round of lightner if you need to and now those that are doing permanent color and not using bleach
you'll want to stop here you're at the end of

your

journey congratulations you've colored

your

hair

properly people that are bleaching there's more stuff to it okay it's a long process so next up we have toner toner is a tricky situation for a lot of you have noticed a lot of you are using permanent color as a toner now that's not a toner okay see permanent color like we went over before lifts and deposits it goes into the cortex of

your

hair

toner lays on top you
don't want to use permanent color when you're toning

your

hair

again it's a very confusing thing to go over we're going over the basics today just listen to me don't try to fight it okay just use a toner not a permanent color don't use box dye to tone

your

hair

okay don't go grab the icy blonde box dye and put it over

your

already blonde

hair

there's so much ammonia there's so much lifting in that box you don't need any lift at this point you've
already lifted

your

hair

to what it needs to be it's like pale yellow right now you don't need to then lift it further you're just gonna create so much damage for no reason toner lays on top of the

hair

cuticle it's often mixed with anything below a 10 volume developer typically there is a toning developer that goes with the toners okay so look out for that t18 is not a toner it's a permanent color okay don't be using 20 volume with t18 in order to tone

your

blonde

hair

no it's not good use a level 10 toner maybe an ash neutral one combined with a toning developer in order to tone

your

hair

this will leave

your

hair

feeling amazingly healthy it won't cause any damage it'll actually help some of that damage feel better and that's why we use a toner and not a permanent color when you're toning

your

hair

opt for something that is at the same level as what

your

hair

is right now or for something darker okay you can't go lighter with a toner
you can only go darker or at the same level so these are the levels right here the basics of it all level one to ten one being the darkest ten being the lightest see what you are and then when you know what

your

level is say you're level eight right now and you're trying to be more ash toned okay so you know you wanna go with level eight then you about

your

color wheel okay it's not that complicated i swear just listen i know this sounds scary grab

your

color wheel if

your

hair

is
kind of looking a little uh orange you know go from that orange across the other side and you'll see across some orange is blue you're gonna want a blue based toner at a level eight in order to cancel out that orange you're seeing so you can use something like an 8na in order to cancel out that orange and get a beautiful level 8 tone that looks sort of natural and almost long quality purple shampoo is not a toner purple shampoo is to keep up with what you've done at the salon or
at home it's not a toner don't use it to tone

your

hair

it's not gonna work well you're gonna get spotting everywhere that's not what it's for and make sure you're leaving the toner on for the recommended amount of time and not longer and not shorter so using a level 10 toner on a level 8 head of

hair

see this is level 10 this is level 8. it's not gonna work because there is no lifting agents there's nothing that's going to get

your

hair

higher there's
nothing that's going to make

your

hair

lighter toner doesn't make

your

hair

lighter it just brings you to the right tone of that lightness that you have achieved with bleach consider doing a root and end glaze you can look up pictures of that this is basically what it is it's when you do a darker toner on the top and a lighter one on the bottom

hair

naturally has darker tones at the top and lighter tones at the bottom typically we often do that in the salon to make a bit of a more
natural look or to make a little root shadow so you can use like a level eight on the root and a level ten on the ends and blend it all together it'll look amazing but that is definitely more of an advanced skill try it might not come out that good but don't blame me our next category finish and style at this point you're pretty much done okay you've rinsed off you blow-dried it you have the most amazing beautiful

hair

ever evaluate okay is this where you want to be do you want
to be lighter maybe you should wait a day maybe you should wait a week maybe you should wait six months to do it again maybe try to get

your

hair

lighter or maybe it looks great how it is just evaluate the situation and don't make any impulse decisions make sure you are gentle with

your

hair

and using the proper products to take care and maintain

your

new color we have force filled heat shield here and viper smoothing oil these are gonna be great for maintaining color and keeping the
integrity of

your

hair

heat shield protects

your

hair

up to 500 degrees fahrenheit and adds pro vitamin b5 to strengthen and restore

your

hair

this is great for people with colored

hair

or not colored

hair

people with any

hair

type or texture perfect for protecting against heat damage and the elements the oil is going to rehydrate

your

hair

it's not going to sit on top of

your

hair

cuticle it's actually going to seep in deep into

your

cortex and rehydrate and restore

your

hair

from the
inside out great for after color please make sure you take care of

your

hair

after color that's so important that way when you go back with color again the next time

your

hair

is in pristine shape to then take more color and not become damaged and with that all said you guys happy

coloring

and good luck um please follow my directions it took a while for me to put together and i hope you could please learn a thing or two um as much as i think it's fun seeing people do bad their

hair

i i
do really like helping people and um making them feel beautiful and learn and i love educating so this is a lot of fun for me i can't wait to see what you guys do hopefully some good stuff i'm sure there'll be some bad but hopefully some good too that is all for today guys thank you so much for freaking watching me today follow me on all the damn social medias we have snapchat facebook twitter instagram tick tock at ramondo nyc follow my

hair

care brand x mono

hair

for new products
coming out and that's all for today guys thank you so much for watching don't forget to live

your

extra life i'll see you next time bye guys hi beautiful this is project x our everyday conditioner project x is going to give you that basic hydration

your

hair

needs with all the necessary nutrients so it's still nice and fluffy it's still beautiful and flowy and has that lightweight hydration and shine

your

hair

is craving and this is project x our everyday conditioner