Grinding primary bevels

welcome to my shop I get asked a lot about

grinding

primary

bevels

or what you do if you have a really bad neck and blade or chisel so I'll tell you a little bit about my setup what I like what I don't like what I don't You need to spend a lot of money on a grinder but you do need a good tool holder so here's what I did with this I got rid of the grinder the tool holder and added Wolverine it's called The Wolverine jig made from a way i sell them on my site just this is a motherboard and deck assembly now they make them make a unit which is also for guys who are getting sizzling but i didnt need it so the motherboard clamps to the table the grinder is attached to so you can modify it to fit any grinder it's all powered by a cam so it locks in tight and easy same on the deck assembly so prime it What I am going to do has been there and I am going to dress my wheel.

I happen to have another one here so when you buy it you only get this one so I want the wheel to be as real as possible and I also want the face to be pretty aggressive so it cuts fast. People worry about using a bench grinder. that or at least you can lessen that by using a really thick wheel and keeping it nice and clean meaning it doesn't clog up and it modifies the amount of pressure you use turn it on there are two different wheel dresses you can get for the ones you want having close support the tool you are using is cheap it only has one industrial diamond vetted there and the grinnin one helped make this game true.

I like to knock down the corners inside the wheel. the face of the stone to smooth out so this is another style of wheel you can buy they are not very expensive they have replaceable wheels I'm going to put them on mine but they will go in and really pop that will do a lot faster and i like to use this course a wheel as you may find they said this wheel course will cut faster and the cooler cut is not applying too much pressure so the wheels are ready to go now. I want to copy the angle that was here and the plane not avenged. dealing with a 45-25 degree

primary

bevel so it's just a matter of going in and setting it to the same bevel you already had there and you can use the protractor like this to go in there and check your angle once you start or to see if it's close to 25 before i start now i'll pick this up and this handle just pull it out it's spring loaded and move it wherever you want so you can get the range you need actually my wheels are wearing out that's the most close as i can get now let's wait for it to slow down this is actually a high angle blade i did that's why there is a very pronounced back bevel on the back but i still need to clean this up so i I'm going to move If I like it down here, I just go in and watch until the blade hits the

grinding

wheel, it hits about the same angle that I had there.

You want to be hitting in the middle and I'm hitting down here. the bottom so I need to lower it down a bit. I'm still his daughter a little longer. Rotate it by hand and see where it is making contact. She's a little higher up, but she still needs to go down a little more. so there's my touch and that's good so make sure everything is tight turn it on now you want to keep this tool tight to the rest if you allow it to get on top of the rest as you go on the wheel it's going to be multi faceted there so i hold it tight there's a lot of surface contact which just means this great tool holder will act as a great heat sink to help keep the tool in but a cold blade while browsing doesn't even have a bit pot of water you can dunk it in as it's too hot i keep my fingers up f close airy and can tell if it's too hot.

I always like to move laterally before hooking the blade or stone and I also like to walk away while still moving the ladder back. and i see your progress and i keep it pretty consistent with what it was it can't be in a hurry it's when you start to burn now i don't stray too far that way i know it's me i don't have to move it much to engage and by getting the wheel slightly crowned , I know my contact point is somewhere near the middle that way if I need to come in here and make a little adjustment that's slightly out of square.

I just want to work in that corner. I know my point of contact is right there, so I only work in that area. What I do is gradually taper off so I don't work here again. I'm just working on it. my corner just keep turning it around and checking it back to where you want it to be if it works this is what i'm done with now if i'm grinding just to shorten my secondary bevel and that's my main reason for going in here and redoing this main bevel to custom that your sub bevel gets wider and wider with successive x' sharpenings on the hand stones just means you have to move too much material so what I do is I go in and shorten this little sub bevel until it's just a little whisper and then I can go back to my usual buffing light pressure don't be in a hurry and if it doesn't get so hot you can't hold it, if it does you can sit there and press it against the cold rust for a second and that will draw the heat out of it now when you're doing a chisel surface area like you do with a flat blade so this heat sink won't work as well so what i do as a chisel is i almost always don't tend to I'll have a small can of water so I can just dunk it into its territory, but the same process moves laterally as it's turned on and off. here you keep moving laterally and come back and just work it until it's straight to quickly square with the side and if you have to work one point or another what can you do espresso something narrow like this this corner was high I would just angle my chisel a little bit like this and you would do the same parallel motion but with the chisel at a slight angle so you can work that high corner very easily wear your safety glasses that is probably the only safety precaution you are concerned about it is a pretty safe tool otherwise and remember to get a wheel really thick of course wheel cuts faster cuts cooler there you go see you