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Furyan Ulaks - Chronicles of Riddick - MAN AT ARMS: REFORGED

May 11, 2020
let's play I'm Matt I'm Kerri we're the deer my brother is a knife and a sword from Baltimore let's build some of your favorite weapons some weapons you've never seen before this is a reformed man-at-

arms

In this episode, we're finally going to make the knives of the fierce outlaw Furion, Riddick. We've wanted to make these swords for quite some time, in fact, they've almost made the cut in every season of Reforge. We are going to do something very special. We'll do a Damascus tile pattern, we'll alternate 15, 20 and 1095, but the difference is this time we'll twist them into one long bar, we'll cut that bar into three, Reese's will join those three bars together and then we'll twist them. that again, which should give us a really twisted pattern, it will be amazing after doing the initial welding, you will often see Ilya cutting and hot folding several times to get the desired layers for our pattern on our sheet, in this case we want to leave them . nice, bold layers, so he'll just solder them together and start drawing them on the bar.
furyan ulaks   chronicles of riddick   man at arms reforged
Now we need about 52 inches of bar total so we can cut it into seven different sections, twist them, and then put them back together working with long ones. A stock like this under our smaller dies is not so easy, but now that Ilias got the link and got it a good shape and even along the entire length of the bar, you can start hot cutting your pieces. Ilia will now move from one to two, rotating each individual. bar, it starts by doing ten rotations in total, it gets hotter and ends with seven more, giving it a total of 17 turns on each bar as it rotates the material, you can see the scale come out of service, it's going to rotate this a lot stronger than We normally make it almost to the limit to account for the stretching that will occur when forming the final blades.
furyan ulaks   chronicles of riddick   man at arms reforged

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furyan ulaks chronicles of riddick man at arms reforged...

In the end, he will give us a very nice pattern. When we finish our blades, we use the wire wheel to remove some scale from the surface. of each rod we are going to join everything with wire, weld the end and then, while the handle of the mini Leah can also move one before, now that it was stacked and take out the twisted rods, it is time to pay attention to them again and force them together once let him get a bar on this law on this thing, I'm going to twist them again to use an old Russian Amish constant cold cut pattern, each of which borrows ground food four uses a star pattern, but since they stacked a bunch of them and I twisted them, the star pattern will go across the sheet in this direction, now the bars to the desired length of Ilia, I'll just heat it up one more time, clamp it in the fly press and start twisting one more time , this will be the final manipulation of the Damascus pattern.
furyan ulaks   chronicles of riddick   man at arms reforged
Before taking it out of our blades to recognize it, I traced the actual knife used in the film. One prop in the movie had the tip cut off, so I figured it was about that length, so we'll go ahead and get these. the blades cut no I'm just kidding we're just going to cut out a rough template for Ilya to work with to forge these swinging blades called They are capable of cutting and stabbing, basically, they are made to imitate the natural movement of your arm. Ilia forged them on purpose, they're quite thick that way. I can polish about 1/3 of the material and really reveal that beautiful pattern underneath.
furyan ulaks   chronicles of riddick   man at arms reforged
Let's start by using a magnet. behind to really drive and cover the entire serve, as this is a turn within a turn. I really want to reveal those stars so you have to polish the surface a little before you start putting on the edges, these blades are single edged so I'm just going to do a hollow polish on the outside edge and then add the teeth here in the alpha blades profile. It's time to move on to edge polishing. Now I'm going to do a hollow polish on this, so you'll see. I'm going to have the blade facing up to make sure I don't pickle the edge too much.
I have to get halfway, turn it over and do the same on the other side. I like to grind deeply. first and then move the line back to create my whip. Those of you with experience in knife making may wonder how the heck you get a real polish while that wheel bounces so well. These grinders are great for hoarding, they're certainly not precision grinders, but they're what I've used my whole life so I've learned to adapt. I just do the work, so the next step I need to do is mark where the holes will be drilled and where the blade capture serrations will be added to the spine. as you see here, since we have a cut out pattern, it should be pretty easy.
I'm just going to lay it on top, use a marker and mark it and then hand it to Kerry to drill the hole initially since I already have this here, go ahead and mark where our dowels are going to go. I'm going to extend the spike up here. Our pattern already has the blanks for the wooden handle. We're going to give these knives tenons like this and then our wooden handle. He will be captured because all this is excess. I'm going to remove that real quick with a hand grinder and then I'll continue with the grinder after Kerry is done and just pull the tang towards that shoulder.
Let's drill these holes. To start, I'll use the center punch that comes with a half-inch drill for the first two holes. The second two holes will be 3/8 apart to change it. I have my speed set very low so I can put a lot of pressure on it with a low speed which should allow me to cut through this harder material a little better, so I'm going to mark my center and go straight for it now that Kerry has the four main holes drilled at what is going to happen. I will drill holes in the base of each match to catch blades and then I will use a hand grinder to cut those holes to create the final slot.
Now any of our holes are drilled and our slots are made for a blade catcher I need to make. One last thing and I'm adding bevels to each of these spikes for two reasons, one that's how they are in the movie and two, I need to gain a little bit of height on each of these so when I add bevels I'll get that job done. I've used a blowtorch to heat it up, so I have that local area heated up and I use a hand hammer to add my bevels, so our goal is to make two identical blades.
Some of you may be wondering: hand forge this and then just see where it is. The holes were and the slots, how are you going to make them identical? Well, let's say we have them pretty close. You must have done this before. Let's take a look at the plunger. I would say they are pretty ready after the heat treatment. You'll be able to adjust the geometry just a little. I'm very happy with this, they will be quite wicked in the demos. Sometimes, when you have done welding with a twisted pattern, it can be very important to normalize it, this prevents the piece from twisting back when going to do the heat treatment.
Lily is going to take these sheets out of the oven, let them cool in the air on a large anvil , return to the oven, raise the temperature and cool them in oil, since these knives are small enough to fit in the oven. I'll take them to the jewelry store or I have a digitally controlled oven, set it at 400, put them in for a couple of hours, then take them out and let them air cool now that our blades are heat treated and tempered. I can finish. the geometry of the edge and then we'll move on to polishing, then we'll add some ferric chloride and etch our beautiful pattern.
Our blades are polished all the way through the grains. Now it's time to put two finishing touches on the Scotch Brite wheel. It softens all my lines and enhances my hologram. You may notice that the radius of our Scotch Brite wheel is a little smaller than our large wheels on our five horsepower sanders, so four gap grinding will make you wonder why I'm using this for polishing. but if I make a slight angle I can create the same radius so it's not a big deal we're going to take some cocobolo wood to start forming and shaping our handles, we have our patterns drawn here we'll cut them out and start shaping them.
We already cut our pieces, as you can see, we weighed a little on those lines. We're going to use the manual Dremel and some of the smaller sanding wheels to get into some of them. those little ricasso the concave areas we're taking those pieces at this point and we're putting them together we want them to be as close as possible that way if you switch hands with a knife, you still have exactly the same grip in both hands with either knife, Now let's get our blades completely polished. It's time to etch them, we will be using ferric chloride, this is a highly concentrated batch so we normally have to etch a blade for about an hour, this will only take about 15, maybe 20 minutes, but to start let's do a dip Quick to see what it looks like, oh yeah, that's beautiful.
You see each one of these little white lines, it goes diagonally, they are each individual striation of the twisted bars going down so that each of those little bars. has its own pattern Billy did an amazing job this definitely looks like something from outer space so what we're going to do is leave this for another 10 to 15 minutes and then we polish it completely so the leaves don't darken. We want it to be shiny like in the movie, but it will still show our pattern. It'll end up looking a lot like this one here. Now our sheets are completely engraved.
You can see I went ahead and spread out some white. ash along the entire surface of the blades just because ash is very basic, we let it sit in an acid, so now we need to use a base to neutralize. Now I'm going to spray it with a little bit of Windex potassium ammonia just to clean it up. Shut down and add a little more neutralizer, then we'll move on to the buffer. I'm going to use some green buffer blush on a cloth polishing wheel. All my white lines here are going to become super bright. The black lines will remain black.
I do not do it. I don't want to remove any material I just want to give it shine after polishing this pattern is beautiful so we cut the handle pieces now we divide them in half then we flip them like this and put them back together and as you can see , Maps put some notches here. The reason we do this is that we are NOT going to fix or paint this handle. We're going to cut the notch in the wood to fit inside these. Now we have taken our two stops. We change them. We put them together.
Now we have our notches directly inside. What we've done is mark where our highlights are so we can start forming our curves. We're going to take this to the sander and make the other side to match this side of the grip, so We finished shaping the Riddick handles, we're going to fill them with an epoxy pick and I'll clamp them closed and we can finish these blades so we have the epoxy handle together, as you can see, there's a lot of epoxy everywhere. So that we can make sure that all the seams are filled and everything is nice and smooth, we'll sand all of that by hand when we clean it and finish it to get it a little bit closer to the look. in the movie they actually need to be darker even though this is a very rich, fairly dark wood, so I'm going to take some dark stain and hand rub the entire surface on them after they dry, probably We will apply a little wax to obtain a final finish. finish and then the parts will be ready to go.
We have made many different welding patterns. I'm pretty sure these sheets are my favorite. We've done so far in the program. Click here to subscribe or click here to watch more episodes. Thanks for watching the reformed man-at-

arms

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