Functional Ram Air EFI + Rewired the Car! | ‘67 GTO [EP24]

Alright, so if we go back to our sniper setup, I

rewired

the engine under the hood. I was perfectly confident in my capabilities and the way it turned out, no one hacked into that harness before, there were just some weak spots that I fixed. I was okay with that. but many of you put up a stake and said: you know this caliber of car well, you have a sniper, you need a new wiring harness and no pain. I think I heard you guys, and I know we don't make one for a GTO, but we make one for a Chevelle on the Camino and trucks and whatever else, so hang in there, put on your big boy pants and you can adjust our harness to make what you need to do, so they said this 25 circuit kit and while I plugged it in, I realized I could do things with Holley that they would never have thought of before, including Holley technicians, let's get into it.

I'll show you how to get the most out of both systems. Here we go, okay, so with this project that started four years ago we had every good intention of having the car on the road around 2016, so that didn't happen in 917 nor did the movies get married in 2018, but the new goal of 2019 is power to her along with this car. Stephan's Bring a Car will have to stay for that, but both of our cars will be collectible magnets at these stops to show that you're a long-hauler, which is a huge honor. You have a button above.

Some things. You have to put the glass inside. On that and here we go, okay, so we take the GTO off the horse, we need a pod that's actually pretty good. Alvin says these shocks are very easy to install basically just unscrew the bolts on the new ones so once we get the whole car ready and this. Done, let's put a ceramic coating on it while we're at it, why don't we just rewire the car? Okay, so we have our sniper, you have our high rpm air gap, but we have a ram air that also stays upright. high, so bring it down a little bit, what I'm going to do is cut this lip.

You have a piece of ABS that I made as a support to hook my lathe on, pull it so it fits right here and then cut the five. inches from there and have him sit on the sniper, drop him first Ram air into an EFI in a finished GTO, here we go, hey, the cars are coming together, these banks are slowly emptying, the only thing left is to put the - we ordered a new one, because we couldn't fix the old one, we tried a couple of times, it didn't look good, it was an upgrade to get this GTO with full wood grain touch screen, but I don't know, I really have to think about this. whether we want to do that or not, the only problem is this because this is a misstep, but we may have a new one of these that we're working on and I think for now it's putting it together.

I can skip this and then we're going to get into the wiring so we ordered the stickers which are wood grain and they just don't fit the car anymore so we could try wrapping the center console in the vinyl but the front plate of the radio and gear levers are too tight. I can't fold the material and make it look good so just a little bit of rest yeah it was an accident of mine it's kind of experimentation so put on a base coat and a nice thick second coat and then. weigh about 30 seconds and then just find some text that matches what you want, whether it's a sponge or whatever, and then you just hit dab and you'll see that nice little texture, lift up and light a little dot that you made to get your keychain from there. turn the power switch all the way to the left, as far as counter clockwise, then take a little piece of MIG wire or a clip and you will see a little hole there, see the hole, believe me, there is a whole day, Feel a little spring action, turn it a little more counterclockwise and your lock will come out.

Now you can remove this ring. I turned it all the way in and then you can mount it on your... well, then you secured the... to this table, thank you. - It's funny, you left my wiring harness flat even though it spins around. I can fit a new fuse box right here, then I know my length is correct. I can run all my - cables once I get them - in place, then I can place them. the car and then we can start running our different harnesses where they need to go, start very simply on one system and then work your way through the rest and it's not that difficult, what we have are spade connectors, main power ground tail lights and side marker lights and grommets, headlight sockets, you have a fuse box that is already wired with all this wiring, what we are going to do is design it and basically copy the harness that we have and then leave the wires loose for the compartment of the engine because we will redirect them.

Those completely, except for... we'll make a slightly longer fuse box with a bracket in the exact same place and then connect it to the back of the gauges. We will turn everything on. I think it should work the first time here. Wow because it's not as bad as it sounds, we've got a lighting section, we've got an engine section so we don't have to worry about that now and I've got a harness - it stays inside the cockpit and then we just split it up. in different sections this would be your light switch and each wire is marked and these three would be for the windshield wipers this big bundle would be for your ignition switch these go to this plug here so that's your console where your switch is turn signal and your horn and all that goes on, this would be for the gauges, you have a separate one for the radio and then these would be the cigarette lighter sensors for the power of the door opening and closing accessories and any other thing, so it's very discouraging to look at this and the manual. pretty thick, but it's not that bad if you can separate it, it's just no different than looking at the whole project and figuring out how to break it all up, so what I'm going to do is mount my gauge cluster so I can secure it from the back.

My dash down just with a couple of C clamps and cardboard so I don't scratch it and then straighten out my harness and I figured this is where my fuse box needs to go so I'll make it a little longer. I'll just screw this in. Place the new fuse box here and then I can run the wires individually to where needed, start tracing our path, okay, I mounted the fuse box, got rid of the wires, I don't need the tail section and the tail section. engine, forget it. If they don't exist right now, we have the steering column wires and then the wires for the light switch, three for the windshield wipers, these for the ignition switch and these are all the gauges, three for the radio, these They don't worry you. for now, so we'll start here with the simple ones we know, probably the gauges we'll start with with the individual pluggable cables will put the spade connectors on the connectors painlessly, it even sells the crimpers, the right creepers for everything we're on. on the way, so here we go, what could you find a better place?

Got it all and it looks a little sour, nice and neat, I passed, do a good job kitty, it's okay, everything is wired up, we've got our two little races going. to the back of the gauge cluster and all the gauges are done, we have the wires that go to the steering column, so we'll do it while they're in the car, this goes to the engine compartment, this goes to the back of the car and this seems daunting, but in reality it's not just a bunch of wires, some lights and whatever else the radio is connected to, we'll have to take the radio out because it goes through real steel;

A couple of things to keep in mind. Keep in mind to have an old meter ready so you can check which plugs do what you need to remember. Much of the ignition switch happens when it turns to the home position and cuts power through the accessories, so the coil wire must have power in the on and home position, otherwise you have a null start, so we're ready to throw this into the car and then we'll continue wiring from there, here we go, all good kitty, oh yeah, you like that, aren't you sure? against the - put your smell in there, yeah, I'm keeping it to myself no, hey, don't delete it, that's not right, so we've got all the wiring pretty well buttoned up for the - group and we test it before we put it in.

Turn it on, just plug in the main power cable and then connect a couple of ground connections; here you can put all the grounds for the lights there, make sure they work, you can turn on the headlights to make sure you get power to the tail light. section and the headlight section and then you can also take your gauges once they're on this blue one says oil pressure so if I ground it we can see the oil pressure gauge is running green one here is altered by temperature. Measure the oil temperature, everyone can check those gauges and make sure they are working properly before putting it in the car.

I have to figure out the tack, but the tacks don't do what I wanted to do. I don't have a cable. So I'm going to look for that, but now I know that if I don't have those gauges and there's a problem somewhere else, so now that we've done that, I know these cables are fine, I'll look at the back of this just the sections that don't. I want to touch more that I know it works properly and then we'll put it in the car, there we go, okay, separate it into the dimmer switch, courtesy light, rear wiring, front wiring, so we'll run it through a grommet right there . and then we'll mount the fuse box and then we'll worry about this and this and then we'll go from there, okay, we've got the wiring separated now that we've got the engine compartment with our steering console.

We have our brake cables to the brake switch. We have our wires going to the rear for the taillight section which includes the wire for the fuel sending unit. This blue wire is for the EFI fuel pump which goes through a relay and is no longer a pain. It has a fuel pump wire that will activate that relay to turn on the fuel pump. We have our neutral security. A reverse purple wire is the big one that goes to the starter, so it will go to neutral safety and then back. Turn off the dome light again, there is a small light on the back of the console and the shifter light, then in the rear, here I just separated the wires, left turn signal assembly, signal right turn, brake and tail light, dome light, reverse lights, license plate light and a. another one that's supposed to go in there somewhere and then the front I basically just ran the wires up to about where I think they're going to be these are the ones on the left these are the correct wires for the right taillight assembly the horn is on the driver's side side here still and then the engine cables I took and put them on top of the engine and that's the coolant temperature, the engine oil, the tack and the coil cable, we'll start by mounting the shifter and running those cables nice and neat because those aren't hanging there, put your console in place, make sure it's where we want it and then we're ready to go, okay, it's hitting the main harness that had covered it, You'll probably pass it between the two insulations, so don't stick out of the floor like crazy.

I will put these cables on top of the insulation and they will go through the console. I will run the speaker wires on top of the insulation under the carpet. We will put them. The insulation there is from Amazon, sticky on one side, sticks very well, you buy a big roll and it comes in small rolls like that, which is actually easier to put up, cut a little square where the rails will go. down, we're going to stick some insulation underneath, so here we go, it's so nice and easy you see it sticking, it's very sticky, it follows the contours enough that you can almost see the rolls of beads.

Well, we have it. our wiring is pretty well tied up apart from our courtesy light and a couple of wires that are the wire for the sensor put those away nicely once we have everything those are the courtesy lights so we're going to run some lights underneath here and on the console. We're going to lay down the front carpet so we can mount our console and go from there. I made the same texture that looked pretty good on the shifter here. I don't know if I have time before we leave or not. I'm going to take the same material as our winter back and I'm going to wrap it in the material that will look the same as this: Up here and on the rear window, this edge will match this edge and the armrest or the console here gives a little bit of contrast , I like this to match this and this to match this and not everything to be exactly the same color, okay, the use of the engine is the boat, it's as simple as possible, so I basically made a career out of going to the battery and I'm We're going to have a real little box in the corner here hidden behind the battery.

We pass the cables just belowfrom the brake booster and they come around the temperature sensor and the alternator and that will connect. We are getting a new alternator. Holley, so I don't have to run an external regulator, less wiring a wire to make it work perfect, the important thing to remember is that if your key switch doesn't have a place where you turn the ignition on during the run position and the starting position you need to run a wire which is this little one right here from the starter motor is on the starter motor so when the starter motor engages it will turn on that wire which will turn on the ignition and the EFI system while you are cranking is very important otherwise you will have a Null start okay so so we can smoothly talk to our Holley with the EFI we have 10 pins coming out of a socket and these will run electric fans, so we have two fans, so one has a certain temperature and the other. turns on with another temperature, the green light and the blue light or the fan controls are already preset and you can use your screen to adjust the temperatures you want to turn on and off and they are controlled by the negative of the relay, but it also has a AC compressor on and off and that's the AC Kick Down so when you rev ​​your car you don't rev the AC compressor too much.

They say it's fine, you're worried about your tires smoking, you're not too worried about the air cold right now, we have to turn off the air conditioning compressor to be able to connect it, which is pin number six and it is a gray wire that is negative. one wire comes out but I can use it to power the relay so the relay is very simple five plugs you only have to worry about four of them so 85 and 86 one is negative the other is positive and either of them can be changed to connect 87 to 30, so 87 would be your output and your 30 would be in, so you can use a little bit of current to control a lot of current, so using the Holley in a negative ground, we already have a positive result, you can jump from 86 to 30 if you want or just give it a separate positive and then use the number six negative wire so that the AC reduction turns on 85 the power that comes out will go directly to your solenoid reduction, your only solenoids, so when you step on it it will lower the transmission for you if you connected the cable wrong and it doesn't shift into third gear.

You could have power all the time and you just unplug the cable and make sure you have third gear so the nice thing about using Holley To do the kick down on the transmission you can use the TPS on the side of the sniper and you can set it to any TPS position you want, whether 50% or 100%, gives you much more tuned capability and that's it. On your little touch screen the same goes for the fans, you can use the sniper to turn the fans on at whatever temperature you want because this is Pontiac and it's an older engine, I think we'll get the fans on a little sooner.

It was set at 190, the second fan I turned it down to 180, I tried to keep it down, it's much easier to keep it cool rather than having a hot engine and trying to turn it down again, just things to consider but simple little things with the wiring on the Holly does This car is much more manageable and reliable at the same time. You have it very nice below. What is everything nice and clean? We've got our alternator right, we've got power steering right, we've got a water pump right, we've got two. mounted electric fans that will connect to the sniper and I like that space.

I need to paint this, but they are actually mounted to the sides here, not to the radiator, there is a little gap there, but it's not much that you want. fit the fans as tight as you can to the radiator because otherwise you're going to pull air in from the outside and the air doesn't actually want to go through the fins because it's going to take the path of least resistance, so you have to do that. It's like forcing air through the radiator and the fans really only do their thing when you're stuck in traffic and not moving when you're going down the road, a lot of air is forced through the radiator, it's the fans that kick.

It comes on when the air conditioning is on or when you're not moving, so imagine we'll be in traffic for a moment. The wiring is fine. I don't think there is any other wiring I need. This one is actually for my washing machine, painless. recommends using relays if you use halogen lights. My solution was to get some LED lights and we got them from the OC beam which looked great with the halo on but unfortunately they are too big and don't fit in my socket so I have to return them. I have enough old ones that work.

Let's put some relays in divisions without pain. The wiring right here will be split into two for your left and your right. I only took out a recurring cable. These with shrinkage. I'm going to stick them under to turn on the relay and then turn on those lights and that light on the turn signal and the parking light. You can still run through your normal wires, obviously my speaker is down, I put the relays down here. hidden under my wash, all the wash bottles slide out and then you don't see them. I have a 100 amp fuse with the painless kit.

The problem is that this alternator produces 150 amps, so we blow that fuse if there is a high demand. So as long as this wire is well covered and never rubbed, we won't burn up the car spectacularly, but I will run all my relays through that 100 amp fuse in case there is a problem with the fans or anything else, so simple and painless, it gives you a ground for the lights so it connects to ground for each light connected nicely then to the chassis ground and they also make one for the taillight section so I'll run those neatly and then add these wires to that loom because they're already pre-made and they're pretty nice, but they're connected together.

I'm limited to what they made and then I'll add my loom whether it goes on top or along the rad support or wherever it goes. we will do that. I already put the cables in, how long enough to get to where they need to go. I just have to put the ends on it and then I've already marked them so that some go on power and some go on ground, so we just have an "I'm tired" so we don't want to mix them up because then things don't work properly, we have We need to get this safely so we can get it on the road legally, they recommend you have working lights and turn signals here we go, there couldn't be anything else on this truck that you might need except the speedometer cable.

Let's see if there's still one of those here. I'm sure it's somewhere fine, so I didn't find my speedometer cable. but I forgot I had a bunch of stuff here in the trunk, including the turn signal switch, then I turn on the taillights. I'm going to take him down the road. I did a quick little alignment to make sure I had some tow on the The alignment shop isn't far so if I have a braking turn, which would be great, then I can get to the alignment socket without telling them haha, that's them Thanks a few, let's see if we get it right, then we probably will.

Have it in the back too, look at that candy. I guess the taillights turn completely white. Here, this is fast. I have about an hour and a half before it gets too dark on the ground in each case just to be safe and we are using bull beam LEDs in. At least they are a little brighter so it should keep people away from our rear bumper . It's dark now. I'm still going. These do not turn off even though the keys are off. Turn signals off. These lights don't turn off and that's because. my brakes, which are probably too worn, so I'll do that and then we'll go.

I always say that nothing good happens after seven. I made a couple of trips. I started on a boat. At eight o'clock, I went down the road. I found a couple of small bugs. The ones who turned around were fixed, they came back when I had everything fixed, it was around midnight and I went to the gas station to get some gas. I went from first to second, no problem, the car sounded good, I shifted into third, went to the service station, that's it. very close I got full I went to leave I started making a little noise like what is that not a good noise you know that noise and you just push it in the back of your head so I wouldn't go into third gear for a second it's Well, I wouldn't go into third gear.

I found a loose vacuum line in the engine, it's the vacuum line that tells the modulator when to change or depending on the engine it needs a change, so ok put the vacuum line in no problem. I had to do an alignment the next morning, fingers crossed, come on, it still didn't change in a second, I turned around and started twitching a little louder, maybe they're connected, there might be something going on. in the transmission. I talked to Joe a little and found out he was the governor. He told the governor. Oh, there's a valve there that's supposed to move and it doesn't move no matter what I do.

I think I'll run to the city. I know a good friend who has a turbo 400. See if he could take his governor and move his seat, that's what we want, in the meantime, put some Lucas in there I thought, okay, maybe without the engine off, I would. made immediately purred like a kitten heel, the position is working better. It means the noise was definitely coming from the engine, we took it on the roads and you can hear it in the video. It's starting to not worry me so the only thing we don't touch on this car is the engine if you go back to our In the first series we had the 400 and we got the story that its numbers matched and it was a low mileage rebuild, it's 30 more because every engine you buy, this Pontiac has 30 more, super clean and ready to go, so we don't open it. above we didn't remove the platter or take the head off, we assembled the outside car, put the dyno in to check it ran on a bit of low power which wasn't great but we thought it was ok, the motors were ready to go and that really set the pace as to where the build was going if it was a numbers matching car we would be building an original car.

I'm on something else, we have no lesson, something different, but now we have an engine that is not Well, then no, so my good parts hold the spark plugs out. The heads are good because my spark plugs are all good. That's what we're going through, but this bottom end got loose. I lost my entire bank so when I got it it got stuck. Secondly, I didn't go over 3500 rpm, the engine got to about 200 210, which is still good for the Pontiac read on the forums. I think it's okay, you're not moving fast enough and the engines were running pretty loud, hopefully not that.

Don't do it I think this engine was on the way I guess I don't know, we'll never know, but it's going to happen now, so we met a guy who jumped on some forums, Kijiji, and a guy who was 50 minutes away. He has a barn full of Pontiacs, so we picked up a 455, we'll grab it tomorrow. There is a fully assembled 400 block that someone talked about folder, if you don't take it by 10 o'clock, we will probably take it if not. I have a 455 that we are going to build and put into this, unfortunately I can't spend the time on it that I would like to spend on it, so it will be rings, cleaning bearings, get it together, cross your fingers, go drive.

I'll have to take it out again one winter and check it properly, but we're getting a new one. I just turn off the engine in the morning. I've been sleeping two or three hours a night and that's not good. Fact, if I work two hours tonight, I will sacrifice four hours tomorrow, so eat well and go to sleep and then we will still see each other on a power run, I may be a day late, the biggest problem I have with this car. It's the transmission, it would slip, so I wanted to take it somewhere I knew it would fix right, so I brought it here to Joe's, he rebuilt it, so I'm sure it'll be fine, it was overheating and the carburetor. and the whole system just wasn't set up correctly and I just didn't like it.

I didn't like how the car felt and it was overheating so I ended up installing all e85 fans and fuel injection systems and that will take away all the problems I had with the car so now I put in new gas lines to check all the car, we put a new rear sprocket seal on it because it was also leaking, new tires because they were 20 year old tires on this one. It is going to be some really good worn tires, so we put some new Toyo tires on it to make it reliable and safe to drive.

I put a new trance cooler on it from base performance. I'm really excited because those kits were actually the easiest. All the modifications I had to modify on this crossbar to make my exhaust tighter because it was rubbing the ground. I'd like to especially thank VNR for not seeing me steal this from his yard, soI'm just going to do a check everything again because I'm very nervous to start climbing they're doing a lot of work check all my fluids I'm going to do that I'm going to check the fuel system I'm going to make sure it doesn't leak and if something happens I don't like that , I'm going to use air and you're on your own, that's what I do, okay, so with the engine problems we've narrowed it down to poor assembly of a new rebuild and by that I mean.

I don't think they checked the clearances in the bearings, very critical for the amount of oil to get in there and lubricate it properly, but not enough for it to spill out creating low oil pressure, so we destroyed our crank and our 400. very fast and it wasn't because of lack of oil pressure, it wasn't because it was making noise, we attacked the guy we bought it from. He was told it was a new rebuild and he removed the heads himself and inspected everything, he has pictures, we saw pictures of the cross hatch very clean pistons, very little carbon.

I guess that engine didn't work much in retrospect. I should have turned it around if he said he took the heads off. I should have removed the tray and used plastic to check the bearing clearance. I didn't, we took it to a dyno, the dyno pushed the engine as hard as it could. I think if we had done another three or four surveys, I want to blow it up on the test bench. We prepped the engine there before putting it on the dyno, although it still pulled the cam out now, whether they did that when they installed the ends or rebuilt it the first time, I don't know when. that camshaft came loose, we lost a couple of loaves, you'll see the highest point there and I'll just rotate it compared to the one next to it, I just ate it and then there's another lobe, so you've got a good lobe, but it's not because it's a Pontiac if it was a Chevy, we'd have all the Mopar guys saying it's because it's a Chevy, that's why it was a poorly assembled rebuild and all that money was a waste.

I bet there were three four thousand dollar rebuilds there and it was all a waste. for nothing it ended up costing us a lot more than that later so hindsight is 20/20 yeah it's going to 455 now and who doesn't want a 67 GTO with a fuel injected 455 ram air resto mod Pro.Touring Car I me It looks pretty good, we're doing absolutely everything we can to do a power tour, we're exploring all the options, which includes driving around two, three, four different people and trying to find different blocks we can get into here. What we have now is a 455 block, a crankshaft and connecting rods.

We have parts on order that will be here tomorrow Friday. Pistons, rings, oil pump, camshaft lifters and the machine shop is working hard to get everything ready for a new one. perfect engine, so they are fixing the valve seats to harden them in the head, cleaning the block, checking the block, unfortunately, we had a little problem where the block needs to be aligned, so that will happen this weekend and I think I'm We'll miss at least the first day of power tours, the pond will be there and Erin will be leaving tomorrow, which is Friday, so they'll be there in North Carolina on Saturday.

Honestly, we are trying to find every possible solution we can to achieve this. where we need to be, but regardless we have all our pieces. I think in Canada they are on trucks and the muffins are being held up at the border which is also a big thing and it looks like we will have our line over the weekend. Boring and we'll be leaving at the beginning of the week, maybe even Saturday Sunday, so in the meantime I've wasted some time playing with all that, now I can clean up the wiring, we're setting up his loom and putting everything away.

I still only have the glass left to do on the driver's side. I'm just the door panels, the dashes together, the lights are together, everything else looks good, security is done and we'll have to do a road alignment somewhere, so stay updated. what's happening on Instagram Aaron will be leaving, so editing will stop for now. He'll be working hard tonight, but it'll be Instagram and a bunch of other social posts on the air side that we'll take in stopping for lunch if you want. You're in the area, we'll let you know and hopefully we'll see you.

If it's not somewhere on the road, we'll see you at Power 2. Thanks for taking care of us, so a little sleep and a lot of work, it's all worth it.